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Table of contents

1. Emu Rock 17 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.268298, -37.211790

Description:© (jgoding)

Fantastic looking west facing vertical wall.

Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Above 'Muline Crag'. Best aproached from Muline, and just keep heading up the left end of the crag, scramble up an easy corner and then hack through about 10mins of hakia (prickly!!!)

Park your car about 200m south of Muline Creek on Red Rock Road near a small clearing. Head east on old 4WD track for 5mins to road. Turn right, then on your left after about 50-100m is a cairned well established track. Follow this for around 20mins until you reach 'Muline Crag'. Waltz up the left end and scramble left up a corner, then head south east for about 10 minutes through prickly scrub which is steep in places until you reach the cliff.

Descent: there are 3 abseil options. 1) 35m. ~10m left of the top of 'Whipping Boy' is a large bollard with slings and a ring on it. 2) 55m marked on cliff topo. 3) 45m, slings on bollard approx 3m right and down from 'Patagonia' P2 belay. Apparently you can walk off - this would be epic!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quick Draw McGraw

This route takes an obvious crack through a roof 4m off the ground a few metres L of 'Homework'. 1) 18m Up through the roof (crux) to a ledge. Traverse L to belay in a small cave. 2) 20m Traverse out R from cave, and up R-ward leading flake/crack to ledge. 3) 15m Up on jugs to the top.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust (alt), 1993

20 Trad 53m
2 Homework
  1. 20m Up arete and step L into L facing corner then diagonally L up steep wall to join 'Quick Draw McGraw' at belay ledge. 2) 35m Up rotten corner to top (or last pitch of 'Quick' Draw McGraw).

Start: Start 12m along from L end of undercut section.

FA: Mike Wust, Wayne Maher (alt) Jeremy Boreham, Jerry Maddox, 1993

18 Trad 55m
3 ** Whipping Boy

Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness.

FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter, 1987

16 Trad 80m
4 * Wallscrawl

The first of three routes which are direct variants of 'Whipping Boy'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

16 Trad 87m
5 * Sheet Of Water

The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh (alt), 1992

17 Trad 100m
6 Mother Superior

More of the same with less pro.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1989

16 Trad 90m
7 ** Sahara

Sustained and great.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt) Geoff Gledhill, 1989

17 Trad 90m
8 ** Sahara Direct Finish 19 Trad
9 *** Cyclops

Goes where 'Sahara' should have gone.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Parrish Robbins, 1990

17 Trad 80m
10 ** Patagonia

Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

16 Trad 130m
11 ** Drung South

Hotter than the 'Sahara'. Starts just R of 'Patagonia' at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia's original second pitch traverse on the way.

FA: Parish Robbins, Keith Lockwood, 1990

21 Trad 60m
12 Sorority Babes
  1. 30m From bottom R toe of the wall, climb intermittent, diagonal crack system up wall to above small, friable cave. Veer L up wall on vague dyke below base of large cave. HB where rising dyke meets major horizontal dyke. 2) 50m (crux) Traverse L across wall along dyke to HB on L arete of face. 3-4) 65m As for 'Whipping Boy'.

FA: Simon Murray, Tim Peterson (alt), 1995

18 Trad 150m
13 Sufferers' Palestine
  1. 35m Start as for 'Sahara' but traverse L across steep wall where 'Sahara' veers R. Through friable section, then up to wall between 'Mother Superior' and 'Sahara'. Face, then vague runnel at 15m, wall. HB at dyke. 2) 25m Directly up wall until it eases, then veer L to meet 'Whipping Boy' at weakness in head-wall. 3) Roped scrambling to top.

FA: Anton Bartlett, Simon Murray (alt), 1995

18 Trad 90m
14 The Scar Strangled Banger 17 Trad 20m
15 Dirty Morning 14 Trad 10m
16 Nile

Left of "Whipping Boy" is a big orange wall. Nile takes the right edge of this wall.

  1. 20m (13) Climb slabby wall trending up right until below overhang. Pull around left side of overhang and up juggy arete to ledge.

  2. 20m (13) Up left and up wall to the left of black slab. Step right to ledge. Abseil off bollards.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood (alt) and Norm Booth, 2005

13 Trad 40m 2
17 ** Patagonia direct finish

FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, 1991

16 Trad 60m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
13 Nile Trad 40m 2
14 Dirty Morning Trad 10m
16 Mother Superior Trad 90m
** Patagonia Trad 130m
** Patagonia direct finish Trad 60m
* Wallscrawl Trad 87m
** Whipping Boy Trad 80m
17 *** Cyclops Trad 80m
** Sahara Trad 90m
* Sheet Of Water Trad 100m
The Scar Strangled Banger Trad 20m
18 Homework Trad 55m
Sorority Babes Trad 150m
Sufferers' Palestine Trad 90m
19 ** Sahara Direct Finish Trad
20 Quick Draw McGraw Trad 53m
21 ** Drung South Trad 60m