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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 142.268298, -37.211790
- Description:© (jgoding)
Fantastic looking west facing vertical wall.
- Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range
The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.
- Approach:© (jgoding)
Above 'Muline Crag'. Best aproached from Muline, and just keep heading up the left end of the crag, scramble up an easy corner and then hack through about 10mins of hakia (prickly!!!)
Park your car about 200m south of Muline Creek on Red Rock Road near a small clearing. Head east on old 4WD track for 5mins to road. Turn right, then on your left after about 50-100m is a cairned well established track. Follow this for around 20mins until you reach 'Muline Crag'. Waltz up the left end and scramble left up a corner, then head south east for about 10 minutes through prickly scrub which is steep in places until you reach the cliff.
Descent: there are 3 abseil options. 1) 35m. ~10m left of the top of 'Whipping Boy' is a large bollard with slings and a ring on it. 2) 55m marked on cliff topo. 3) 45m, slings on bollard approx 3m right and down from 'Patagonia' P2 belay. Apparently you can walk off - this would be epic!
Quick Draw McGraw
This route takes an obvious crack through a roof 4m off the ground a few metres L of 'Homework'. 1) 18m Up through the roof (crux) to a ledge. Traverse L to belay in a small cave. 2) 20m Traverse out R from cave, and up R-ward leading flake/crack to ledge. 3) 15m Up on jugs to the top.
FA: Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust (alt), 1993
Start: Start 12m along from L end of undercut section.
FA: Mike Wust, Wayne Maher (alt) Jeremy Boreham, Jerry Maddox, 1993
Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness.
FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter, 1987
The first of three routes which are direct variants of 'Whipping Boy'.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1988
Sheet Of Water
The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'.
FA: James and Melanie McIntosh (alt), 1992
More of the same with less pro.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1989
Sustained and great.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt) Geoff Gledhill, 1989
|8||Sahara Direct Finish||19|
Goes where 'Sahara' should have gone.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Parrish Robbins, 1990
Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1988
Hotter than the 'Sahara'. Starts just R of 'Patagonia' at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia's original second pitch traverse on the way.
FA: Parish Robbins, Keith Lockwood, 1990
FA: Simon Murray, Tim Peterson (alt), 1995
FA: Anton Bartlett, Simon Murray (alt), 1995
|14||The Scar Strangled Banger||17||20m|
FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood (alt) and Norm Booth, 2005
Patagonia direct finish
FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, 1991
|Patagonia direct finish||60m|
|Sheet Of Water||100m|
|The Scar Strangled Banger||20m|
|19||Sahara Direct Finish|
|20||Quick Draw McGraw||53m|