Routes in Emu Rock

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
13 Nile

Left of "Whipping Boy" is a big orange wall. Nile takes the right edge of this wall.

  1. 20m (13) Climb slabby wall trending up right until below overhang. Pull around left side of overhang and up juggy arete to ledge.

  2. 20m (13) Up left and up wall to the left of black slab. Step right to ledge. Abseil off bollards.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood (alt) & Norm Booth, 2005

Trad 40m, 2
20 Quick Draw McGraw

This route takes an obvious crack through a roof 4m off the ground a few metres L of 'Homework'. 1) 18m Up through the roof (crux) to a ledge. Traverse L to belay in a small cave. 2) 20m Traverse out R from cave, and up R-ward leading flake/crack to ledge. 3) 15m Up on jugs to the top.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust (alt), 1993

Trad 53m
18 Homework
  1. 20m Up arete and step L into L facing corner then diagonally L up steep wall to join 'Quick Draw McGraw' at belay ledge. 2) 35m Up rotten corner to top (or last pitch of 'Quick' Draw McGraw).

Start: Start 12m along from L end of undercut section.

FA: Mike Wust, Wayne Maher (alt) Jeremy Boreham & Jerry Maddox, 1993

Trad 55m
16 Whipping Boy

Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness. Start at L end of wall at corner under roof.

  1. 30m (crux) Up, then move out L to pass overhang. There’s a couple of steps back R to follow the line. Belay on ledge at half height.

  2. 30m Continue up curving line to steep exit through notch.

  3. 20m Scramble to the top or walk L along terrace to abseil bollard.

FA: Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter, 1987

Trad 80m
16 Wallscrawl

The first of three routes which are direct variants of 'Whipping Boy'. Start 6m R of Whipping Boy.

  1. 37m (crux) Climb blunt arete under R end of roof. Pass roof and traverse L to line about 3m R of Whipping Boy. Up to SHB level with Whipping Boy’s belay ledge.

  2. 30m Straight up, then veer R on buckets, before going up again to join Whipping Boy at the head-wall.

  3. 20m As for Whipping Boy.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

Trad 87m
17 Sheet Of Water

The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh (alt), 1992

Trad 100m
16 Mother Superior

More of the same with less pro.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1989

Trad 90m
18 Sufferers' Palestine
  1. 35m Start as for 'Sahara' but traverse L across steep wall where 'Sahara' veers R. Through friable section, then up to wall between 'Mother Superior' and 'Sahara'. Face, then vague runnel at 15m, wall. HB at dyke. 2) 25m Directly up wall until it eases, then veer L to meet 'Whipping Boy' at weakness in head-wall. 3) Roped scrambling to top.

FA: Anton Bartlett & Simon Murray (alt), 1995

Trad 90m
17 Sahara

Sustained and great.

  1. 35m Climb the little corner just R of Wallscrawl, moving R on to the vague arete after the friable section. Up and R on to main wall, then up through smooth section and a little L into the line of weakness which leads to a SHB at central of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke.

  2. 25m Continue steeply up the line to tilted horizontal line. Step L, then climb cracks above to a patch of grass, which is just below the second dyke. Head up and R to crack/slot, then straight up crossing horizontal that becomes overlap further R to a dramatic exit L via first weakness R of Whipping Boy etc.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt) Geoff Gledhill, 1989

Trad 90m
19 Sahara Direct Finish
17 Cyclops

A fantastic route - it's like an easier version of Archimedes Principle (Eureka Wall)! The rock is superbly featured, but it can be rather brittle (esp on first pitch).

  1. 35m It's pretty hard to determine exactly where pitch 1 should go, but all options seem to be about the same difficulty. Aim towards the right most of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke.

  2. 30m Up and slightly R, aiming for the distinctive eye (which provides the means for passing through the second dyke). Keep on the same up-and-right trajectory to pull through the overlap to weakness in head-wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Parrish Robbins, 1990

Trad 80m
16 Patagonia

Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

Trad 130m
16 Patagonia direct finish

FA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991

Trad 60m
21 Drung South

Hotter than the 'Sahara'. Starts just R of 'Patagonia' at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia's original second pitch traverse on the way.

FA: Parish Robbins & Keith Lockwood, 1990

Trad 60m
18 Sorority Babes
  1. 30m From bottom R toe of the wall, climb intermittent, diagonal crack system up wall to above small, friable cave. Veer L up wall on vague dyke below base of large cave. HB where rising dyke meets major horizontal dyke. 2) 50m (crux) Traverse L across wall along dyke to HB on L arete of face. 3-4) 65m As for 'Whipping Boy'.

FA: Simon Murray & Tim Peterson (alt), 1995

Trad 150m
17 The Scar Strangled Banger
Trad 20m
14 Dirty Morning
Trad 10m

Showing all 17 routes.