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Table of contents

1. Eureka Area 169 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.313457, -37.216658

Description:© (nmonteith)

Far northern end of the 'Victoria' Ranges. Has a collection of the most brilliant mid-twenties climbs in the country.

Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

All of the crags lie above the old vehicle track to Yanganaginj Njawi (Emu's Foot). This track may be closed at times making for substantially longer approaches. When Matthew's Track (seasonal 4WD) is open, it can be used until below the chosen cliff, shortening the length of the walk. The Jananginj Jawi track is gained from Red Rock Road about 5km north of Muline Creek. Matthew's Track is a further 1 km north.

1.1. Spanish Galleon 8 routes in Crag

All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Wall climbing!! - in development phase!



RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Amusing Musings

Set by @sholloway

Sport Project 12m, 9
2 Too Much German White Chocolate Woman With Almonds

Set by @sholloway

Sport Project 15m, 9
3 ** Diss obedience

Left arete

Set by @sholloway

Sport Project 20m, 9
4 ** TMCM's Guide for the Perplexed

Set by @sholloway

Sport Project 9
5 ** The Existentialist Debater

Set by @sholloway

Sport Project 20m, 9
6 ** Splinter

Gets the blood moving - Centre line starting off top of rock fin, through black streaked bulge to lower off.

FA: @sholloway,A. Holloway, Paul Revere, 2015

21 Sport 17m, 9
7 ** Four on the Floor

Start in chasm just left of bolted crack on right side of crag. Bridge across from rock fin (careful of average rock at start), cruise up wall on great jugs to stance, drop the clutch and straight up wall on small holds to lower off

FA: @sholloway,Amanda Holloway,Brett Williams,Jeremy Greville, 2015

24 Sport 24m, 11
8 ** Hold it, Now Hit it!

Crack and right arete

Set by @sholloway

Sport Project 24m, 12

1.2. Hidden Buttress 1 route in Cliff

All Trad

This 45m high buttress is located up and right of The Lost World, directly behind a nice steep orange face (kind of looks like it should be part of that cliff from the road until you start walking up to it and realise it's separated). Climbing potential here is sadly limited however - but perhaps a little more development is available.


Walk up to The Lost World and rather than cutting left at the slab keep going up and right up the gulley to the detatched buttress.

Descent Notes:

Walk off the back and down the gulley.


Discovered by Jurgen Bollenger while waiting for Anthony Pattison on the way down after a great day at Lost World - we thought it was a free-standing pillar of about twice the height. Oh well.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Book of leaves

A fantastic outing up a good line with good gear and pretty good quality rock (for a new route!). Starts on the lower side of the buttress, on the RHS at a steep crack. Up this and into the corner where you will be rewarded with lots of fun, interesting, sustained bridging for the grade with good gear. Pitch at the ledge (about 25m) or continue on to the top.

Located at GPS points S37 11.365 E142 16.268 @ 510m above sea level.

FA: Josef Goding & Ross Richards (Alts), 2014

11 Trad 40m 2

1.3. Eureka Wall 23 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.277062, -37.194314

Description:© (nmonteith)

Steve Monks had a verrrry good month in February 1991.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Go about 3 km along Jananginj Jawi track to the highest point in the road and follow a rough, cairned track up the hillside.

35 minute walk up the hill.

It's worth going a further 200 metres(approx.) east along the road from the parking area to get a view of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jimmy John's Direct

Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths.

FFA: Phil Gruber and Jimmy Gruber, 2014

16 PG Trad 70m
2 Going In Blind

1: starting 15 metres left of Nose Hairs climb direct up slab/ramp to left side of roof at half height (40m)

2: Traverse out left and up over bulge easily and up and right joining into Nose Hairs for summit.

FA: @jimmy_stephens,Louis Godsell, 2015

11 Trad 90m 2
3 Nose Hairs

Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's.

FA: Jimmy, lily & phil Gruber

10 Trad 100m
4 Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag. The next crack left of Newton's Law, 3 metres left of Maxwell's Demon, move left at ledge and continue straight up.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

17 Trad 50m
5 Maxwell's Demon

A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992

20 Trad 20m
6 ** Newton's Law

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, 1991

24 Trad 30m
7 *** Diminishing Returns (Top Half)

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

23 Trad 30m
8 Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns

Link up - Climb Darwins Theory to the top of the first pitch (obvious big break) the head up Diminishing returns for the last couple of bolts to anchor

20 Trad
9 *** Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches)

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18.

Start: Start as for Newton's Law.

  1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break.

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

18 Trad 55m 2
10 Darwin's Theory pitch 3

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

23 Trad 10m
11 * Foucault's Pendulum

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's 'Theory' to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimede's Principle, finishing as for that route.

FA: Ross Taylor, Adam Demmert, 2009

24 Trad 45m
12 Diminishing Returns

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

27 Sport 30m
13 Archimedes Principle P1 22 Trad 20m
14 *** Archimedes' Principle

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. Often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

  1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

  2. 30m (26) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

  3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this.

FA: Keith Lockwood (p1), Steve Monks (p2&3), 1991

26 Mixed 60m 3, 2
15 ** String Theory

Start: Start as for AP

  1. 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

  2. 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

FFA: Adam Demmert, Malcolm Matherson, 2014

27 Mixed 80m 2, 8
16 Pythagoras' Theorem P1 20 Trad 10m
17 *** Pythagoras' Theorem

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

  1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

  2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood (1), Steve Monks (2&3), 1991

26 Mixed 50m 2, 3
18 * Ockham's Razor

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2009

26 Mixed 40m, 5
19 *** General Relativity

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

FA: 2014

30 Trad 48m
20 *** Pavlov's Dog

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

Set by kp, 2014

29 Sport 14
21 Cats & Dogs

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

FA: clean cut phil

28 Mixed 10
22 ** Schrodinger's Cat

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above.

FA: Steve Monks, Martin Scheel, 1991

25 Mixed 45m, 4
23 *** Vege Maths

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

FA: Toby Pola & Kent Paterson

25 Mixed 30m, 8

1.4. Eureka Towers 4 routes in Crag

All Trad
Approach:© (nmonteith)

Approach as for 'Eureka Wall' and continue uphill for a further 10 minutes on a rough pad.

routes are desribed from right-to-left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Return to Gariwerd

Lovely climbing with excellent protection. Much easier than it looks.

  1. 22m (22) Up thin broken crack right of "Hunter Gatherer", step left then straight up the grey streak.

  2. 25m (21) Sounds quite good. Hand traverse straight left from the belay for 13 metres under the roof. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds are more spaced. Finally pull the roof at a weakness and continue up easy, low angle rock to a natural anchor. Two rappels off slung features back to the ground. "5.10+".

FA: Louise Shepherd, Simon Mentz (P2 by Joshua Janesish), 2003

22 Trad 22m 2
2 Hunter Gatherer

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

FA: Kieth Lockwood, Enga Lokey, 1991

12 Trad 50m
3 Jardwadjaliland

Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, Enga Lokey, 1991

20 R Trad 35m
4 * Tchingal the Emu

Start: Start down left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  1. 15m (17) Up the corner to the ledges just left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  2. 35m (25) Up to the flake that crosses the roof, swing out along this then up the smooth headwall to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Damien Carol, 1991

25 Trad 50m 2

1.5. Clean Cut Walls 28 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.277970, -37.195236

Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice sport climbing venue near Eureka. There is a good range of grades but the cliff is best 23 and above. If you have not been to Eureka, please do yourself a favour and go as it's an amazing cliff.


Two prominent orange tiers lower and left of Eureka Walls. Gets shade at 3pm.

Access Issues:

Please respect all tagged projects.


Walk in as per Eureka. Before Eureka turn left at obvious orange walls. Welcome to Clean Cuts. The upper tier requires access from scrambling up grey jug wall (grade 3?). Please use fixed line on right side. If dangerous please notify Kent Paterson. Please use fixed ropes when scrambling around. An abseil station is located next to Shallow Waters start. Alternatively you can walk in via left or right hand side.


Please do not bring groups here. The access is not suitable for beginners.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Highly Evolved Buttress

The proud bulging orange buttress that is first reached on the walk-in. The major line through the dark orange bulges on the left side is Highly Evolved.

1 Son Of Clean Cut

Up grey wall around corner from Highly Evolved.

FA: Jimmy Gruber, 2014

10 Sport 18m
2 ** Highly Evolved

Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman to first jug. Awesome either way.

FA: @kentpaterson,Andrew Anderson, 2014

27 Sport 30m, 11
3 * Stray Sheep

Fab warm up. Starts up crack system.

FA: @kentpaterson,@adam_demmert, 2014

18 Sport 30m, 13
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 * Sea Within A Sea

The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab. WARNING - Be aware of potential ledge fall potential, do not give soft catches

FA: Kent Paterson,Andrew Anderson

23 Sport 30m, 11

Upper Tier

The following routes are on the major cliffline above High Evolved. Access by scrambling up grey jug wall (grade 3?). Please use fixed line on right side. Please use fixed ropes when scrambling around. An abseil station is located next to Shallow Waters start. Alternatively you can walk in via left or right hand side.

5 * Sleep No More

Great pocketed corner line. Accessed via fixed rope.

FA: Emi K

16 Sport 20m
6 Chinese Bombs

Left side of grey face. Bouldery at start. Drop a grade or two if you bridge up the tree.

FA: @kentpaterson, 2015

16 Sport 10m, 4
7 Plat Du Jour

Starts on right side of grey face. Bridge up tree to grab first jug.

FA: Emi K

14 Sport 15m
8 ** Think Twice

Climbs much better than it looks, a great overlooked route for those who's brain starts to fade after clipping too many bolts. Starts a few m right of Plat Du Jour at bouldery overhang. Straight up this and wall (small wires) to arete and hollow flake. Make a move R, and up short corner to amazing diagonal line (wires / small-med cams). Along this to finish at the anchor of Phil's project.

FA: @goshenw,@jimmy_stephens, 2015

22 Trad 20m
9 * Thank God for the French

Start at first bolt of closed project, then follow undercling traverse to arête then up and left in crack to lower off of Plat Du Jour

FA: @jimmy_stephens,@andreasaachen, 2015

16 Mixed 20m, 1
10 Project - CLOSED (Phil Neville)

Starts 3m left of Trouble Cut. Unlikely.

Set by @kentpaterson

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 ** Trouble Cut

On Upper Tier. Orange wall left of grey seam. Has chain with krab on second bolt.

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

23 Sport 14m, 7
12 * Fratin Brothers

Grey seam on Upper Tier

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

24 Sport 15m, 9
13 * Cut Throat

Starts few meters right of Fratin Brothers off the block. Up via thin side pulls.

FFA: @adam_demmert, 2014

25 Sport 12m, 7
14 * Brighten the Corners

The bolted corner.

FA: @kentpaterson, 2015

16 Sport 10m, 7
15 Open project

Thin face 3m right if Brighten the Corners.

16 * The Man Who Sold The World

Two pitches on left side of orange buttress. Pretty much the Pilot Error of the Gramps (i.e. novelty photo route).

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

25 Sport 26m 2
17 *** Shallow Water

Up on upper tier. Through water streak on beautiful orange face. Has chain on third bolt.

Set by @kentpaterson, 2014

28 Sport 25m, 10
18 Project - open

Starts up OOTS then girdles uncontrollably leftwards.

Set by @kentpaterson, 2014

19 * Observations Of The Scene

Starts as Two Birdies then moves left up lovely orange face.

FA: @kentpaterson

25 Sport 25m
20 * Two Birdies

Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic.

FA: @kentpaterson,@adam_demmert, 2014

23 Sport 20m, 10
21 Cuttting The Grass

Straight up the crack. Enjoy the great water polished rock.

FA: Kent Paterson,Andrew Anderson, 2014

22 Sport 26m, 11
22 ** The CCC (Clean Cut Clan)

Starts as per TB then goes right after rootlet across slab and up steep wall via a hard crux. May be easier than graded

FFA: @adam_demmert,Mike Tomkins, 2014

25 Sport 25m, 13
23 ** Upper Cut

Starts as per VT. Big traverse left. Place 1.2m sling on bolt no. 6

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

22 Sport 20m, 12
24 New Normal

Start as per VT, after 4th bolt veer left past 4 more bolts.

FA: @kentpaterson

20 Sport 15m, 10
25 Villiers Terrace

Bolted Water streaks on right side of fixed lines. Shared start to other routes.

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

18 Sport 15m
26 Deadly Rhythm

...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

23 Sport 15m, 10
27 Liberal Party

The far right. Starts on a slab.

FA: @kentpaterson, 2014

21 Sport 14m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
28 * Gerbil's Route

Starts on far right hand end of the Upper Tier of Clean Cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.WARNING : Belayer and climber please pay close attention to nearby wall, as it gets very close at one point

FA: @kentpaterson,@adam_demmert, 2014

23 Sport 20m, 12

1.6. Alkali Tide Wall 1 route in Sector

All Trad

The existing route doesn't warrant the walk.


Follow the Eureka Wall track past the lower cliff band to the second, larger cliff band. Walk right 300-400 metres below this cliff to the right-hand end. (Turning left instead of right would take you to 'Clean Cut Walls', a much more promising destination).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Alkali Tide

Worth doing for the second pitch experience (not!).

Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.

  1. 30m (16) Boulder the roof then up to ledge. Slither up through overhang. Up 1 metre right of faded guano streak. Up and past left end of grassy ledge (slings). Belay on arete.

  2. 20m (1) Up.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

16 Trad 50m 2

1.7. The Red Sail 2 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A stunning orange pillar east of and below "Eureka Wall" and clearly visible from the Jananginj Jawi track. A vague animal pad leads up to the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Bristol Fashion

The left arete of the buttress.

  1. 20m (22) Up "Sailing Away" for 15 metres then traverse left past a BR to a HBB on left arete.

  2. 25m (26) Up the blunt arete above the belay and up to a rest at a huge flake. Up to the roof (crux) and climb rightward across this to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Damien Carol, 1991

26 Mixed 45m 2, 1
2 ** Sailing Away

The spectacular right arete.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

23 Mixed 45m, 3

1.8. Worthless Wall 1 route in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

The name appears apt. There are vast quantities of un-appealing rock with one or two better bits poking out.

Approach:© (kieranl)

This crag lies above the junction of Syphon Road and Matthew Track. It used to be approached along a 4WD track starting 75 metres along Matthew Track from this junction. This track no longer exists. Instead, from the gate on Matthew Track walk south-west into the bush toward the most reasonable-looking piece of rock for about 30 minutes. Fragments of the old track may be encountered en-route.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roaming Hands

Only worthwhile crack and is on left side of a steep, clean wall. Scramble up to a terrace to start. Climb crack and abseil from tree.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1980

12 Trad 35m

1.9. Weirs Creek 33 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.294552, -37.208216

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some good moderate sport and easy trad


It came to the attention of some climbers, that some of the bolts have started to loosen. They have attempted to hand screw them tight. Please bring a spanner along; or even better, put in some glue-ins. Please be aware of the loose bolts.


Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Matter

Pleasant face near the top of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010

17 Sport 10m, 5
2 Open Project

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

Sport 15m
3 Smoky and the Banditos LHV

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

23 Sport 20m, 9
4 * Smoky and the Banditos

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Catherine de Vaus, 2012

25 Sport 20m
5 * Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

FA: Adam Demmert, 2012

Sport Project
6 Special Circumstances (Open Project)

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

Trad 15m
7 Grey Area

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

16 Trad 12m
8 Contact

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2010

16 Trad 12m
9 Return Of The Native

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

Start: Start at the left side of the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

9 Trad 50m
10 Sleeper Service

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

  2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman (alt), 2010

15 Sport 60m 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Dumber Bay

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top.

The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly.

Start: Scramble out the ramp left od"Disparate Housewives" to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

20 Sport 8m, 3
12 * Climber Wants a Wife

FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, 2012

24 Sport 14m, 6
13 ** Disparate Housewives

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2010

19 Sport 20m, 7
14 ** The Young And The Wrestlers

Start: Scramble up to orange ledge (bolt) Crank through pockets, clipping the bolt in the pocket. Finish up crack.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2011

19 Sport 25m, 10
15 *** Hysteria Lane

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

11 bolts (not 10 as per guidebook.)

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

21 Sport 25m, 11
16 Fumbles Route

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

23 Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 ** Widow Of Opportunity

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. As of June 2015 some bolt hangers were quite loose (bolts were finger tightened).

Start from ledge 2m above ground level, R of Hysteria Lane. Clip first bolt of 'Barefoot and Poignant', then traverse left and up arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

17 Sport 25m, 10
18 ** Barefoot and Poignant

Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades. As of June 2015 some bolt hangers were quite loose (bolts were finger tightened).

Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".

FA: Alex Trnovsky,Hobbsy, 2011

23 Sport 20m, 10
19 Closed Project

Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...

Sport Project
20 * Fairies and Blutterfies

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. Only 24 if, as on the FA, you ignore the obvious line and climb a convoluted crux out left at mid height...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage.

FA: Alex Trnovsky,Ben Weissner, 2013

24 Sport 20m, 9
21 ** Let it Burn!

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil,

23 Sport 25m, 9
22 Bonobo

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

FA: M. Johnston

17 Mixed 20m, 1
23 * Flail Furiously for Footholds

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

FA: M. Johnston, S. Holloway

26 Sport 25m, 5
24 Mailorder Bribe

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

16 Sport 15m, 6
25 * Cold Feet

Follow prominent sharp arete that is 10m to the west of Mailorder Bribe. Some loose blocks and fragile rock, but otherwise a nice line. Can be done in one long pitch or split into two pitches.

FA: @caillan_s,@mattwhite, 2015

9 Trad 35m

1.9.1. West Side 8 routes in Crag

All Sport

Compact orange and grey wall on West side of Weirs Creek. Morning sun and afternoon shade.


New approach - As for Pocket Wall (Weirs Creek) - At end of Emus Foot (Jananginj Jawi) Track, turn right off the vehicle track (approx 200 metres down hill from gate after third 'speed' hump). Head diagonally left up towards the crag through open bush, crossing two creeks (second of which is normally running). At second creek, follow creek bed up to just below crags, then follow intermittent cairns up left to wall. Approximate walking time from gate at end of Emus Foot Track is 15 minutes

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Reload.......Now!

Start off boulder at left end of wall. Up wall on great jugs to base of head wall where holds become significantly smaller (crux)! Up to lower off on very top of wall.

For another good warm up - go right at second last bolt to lower off above Revolver (Reload Revolver - Grade 18)

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, 2014

22 Sport 18m, 8
2 * Lapsed Pacifist

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. From the tree-fern gully continue steeply up the hillside below the cliffs. Continue past the large, rust-coloured slabby corner to the next gully and up a little to below the orange streaks. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

20 Sport 15m, 7
3 Revolver

Starts at small hanging corner just down right of LP. Stick clip first bolt. Up corner (crux) to join LP at third bolt, step left then up keeping right of bolts to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, 2014

21 Sport 20m, 8
4 * Right Caliber

Same start as for Revolver. At third bolt (as for LP), rising traverse out right using bolts on Me and My Gun and Pump Action (use long draws) to lower off on right arete above 3 minute rule.

Another good variant at same grade is to continue up Me and My Gun from middle of traverse.

FA: Steve Holloway, Anthony Pattison

21 Sport 18m, 7
5 ** Me and My Gun

Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. Start off rock step, Thin, technical start past first bolt (crux). Up right to undercling then straight up wall to central lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 2014

22 Sport 20m, 8
6 ** Pump Action

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start (as for Silencer and 3 minute Rule), up RH short corner for a few moves, then out left on small holds along horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off. Best to use long draws for third and fourth bolts.

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, Anthony Pattison, 2014

23 Sport 20m, 9
7 *** Silencer

Maybe 25? Undercut start as for Pump Action and 3 Minute Rule, up left leading shallow corner to undercling traverse (crux) and into Me and My Gun, up this to lower off. Use long draws on second and third bolts and first bolt of Me and My Gun (at end of traverse)

FA: Stephen Holloway, Rowan Blakers, 2015

24 Sport 25m, 12
8 3 minute rule

Good warm up. Undercut start (as for Pump Action and Silencer), up short RH corner to horizontal break, up wall on thin holds (crux) to jugs and lower off just left of arete

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 2014

19 Sport 15m, 8

1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi 10 routes in Crag

All Trad
Access Issues:

The crag contains a major indigenous art site and climbing should not take place on any of the routes near the art site. 'Footless Emu' is probably far enough from the art-site to be climbed but it is strongly suggested that chalk not be used.


Follow the Jananginj Jawi track for 4 km and walk up to the huge red overhangs of the art site.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ants On Heat

Up the wall to diagonal ramp under the impressive headwall. Right along ramp then up chimney.

Start: About 50 metres left of "Carousel" the track swings up under an east-facing wall. Scramble up to the left end.

10 Trad 19m
2 Carousel

Start: Chimney line, second line on left from where the cliff is reached.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Cunningham (alt), 1978

10 Trad 45m
3 Centre Of The Magic Cleft

Start: First line on the left as the cliff is reached.

14 Trad 40m
4 Slippery When Wet

Completely out of bounds behind the cage. Finger crack. Second line right of where the cliff is reached.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1978

20 Trad 45m
5 Shivers Slab

Grey slab 100 metres right of "Slippery When Wet"

8 Trad 70m
6 Dandelion Wine

Slab then chockstones just right of "Shiver's Slab".

14 Trad 33m
7 * Standing Ovation

Flake crack on left edge of buttress right of 'Dandelion Wine'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Phillip Armstrong, Iain Sedgman, 1977

17 Trad 30m
8 * Footless Emu

The best line on the cliff and far enough from the art site that climbing it shouldn't be a problem. Proobaly a good idea to leave the chalkbag behind though.

This was done just before cams were introduced and protecting the horizontal cracks on the traverse was difficult. A direct finish is begging.

On the right side of the outcrops is an orange corner leading to a roof.

FA: Rod Young, Peter Cunningham, 1978

20 Trad 30m
9 Joy Elizabeth

Start by scrambling around to the top of the main cliff and aligning with the approach track. If you turn around towards the hillside, there should be a small buttress with a crack before you. The crack is it.

13 Trad 20m
10 ** Rosetta Ridge

Classic bumbly route in great position. The approach just adds to the adventure.

It takes the massive whaleback ridge that is almost equidistant between "Gondwanaland" and "Red Sail" and can be approached from either.

FA: Keith Egerton, Gordon Talbett, 1978

3 Trad 150m

1.11. Gondwanaland 19 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.285305, -37.198703

Description:© (nmonteith)

This shady large face has some very unique and sustained routes up remarkable grey rock in a similar, but easier style to nearby 'Eureka Wall'. Many of the routes feel like extended gritstone classics (but with better protection!).

Bring a spare rope for descent off the longer routes. A full trad rack should be carried, including some larger cams. Don't forget the botl plates!

The cliff comes into the shade quite early in the morning, and stays that way for the rest of the day. Perfect in summer, miserable and wet in winter.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Follow the Jananginj Jawi track for 4 km and go uphill to caged Aboriginal art site of Jananginj Jawi. Walk right along base of cliff for a few 100m until it is possible to head upwards. Follow vague track up and rightish to arrive at east facing large orange/grey wall. Walking time 20-30 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chasing the Sun

Orange slab split by thin seam and a great overhung finish. Located on separate buttress 100m left of the second short rock wall you reach on the walk up to the main cliff of 'Gondwanaland'. Bouldery start (RB) then right leading weakness to seam. Up this for 10m then skirt under orange roof and then thug back left across overhang to crux finish. Lower off last bolt or trad belay on ledge and epic walk-down descent. Four bolts plus natural gear to finger crack size. Really needs a lower-off anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Monique Forestier, Simon Carter, 2003

21 Trad 20m
2 * Grit Life

bold face climb on jugs

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2003

16 R Trad 20m
3 * Up The Road

Ninety degree sharp arete with clean wall on right side about 40m right of 'Terra Incognita'. A short corner crack is climbed to a little ledge on the left, then launch up the pocketed arete with some fiddly pro. The final ten metres is jug city. 'Small' to medium gear and slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Michael Boniwell, 2003

18 Trad 20m
4 Gibber

Start at the right leading ramp left of the prow. Up ramp easily then left. Up vertical wall on pockets, then easier climbing to crack system up headwall, finishing up overhanging crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1990

19 Trad 45m
5 * Voss

Starts as for 'Gibber'. (1) 30m Up ramp then obvious flake crack. Continue up wall to stance. (2) 20m Up main groove to finish directly up headwall.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood (alts), Norm Booth, 1991

22 Trad 50m
6 ** Terra Incognita

Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1990

23 Trad 50m
7 ** Face the Dissection

Possibly Nick's finest new route? A long intricate and techincal wall with an exposed finish.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Montieth, 2002

24 Trad 35m
8 ** Wild Iris

Magic pocket pulling sport route on immaculate rock. Would be amazing if longer. Starts 50m left of 'Gibber'. White pockets through bulge leads to spaced heucos on face. At third BR head right to BR then up juggy corner to rap chain. Keep an eye out for the bolts on the upper wall, they can be easy to miss!

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

18 Trad 15m
9 * Wild Iris RHV / Wild Iris Right Hand Variant

At second BR traverse directly right on small pockets and little else. When your feet refuse to stay on, clip a BR then crank like crazy to gain monster pockets. Finish as for original line past last BR.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2002

20 Trad 15m
10 Green Room

Leftwards leading easy pocketed corner just left 'Wild Iris'. At top of corner place wires in thin crack then swing out right desperatly onto arete and easily up this to natural; belay stance. Another pitch above on super jugs leads to top and walk off. Needs a lower-off.

FA: Steve Holloway

19 Trad 35m
11 ** Face Off

The direct start to 'Faceless' past several RBs. Very long intricate face climbing. Be wary of long runout in the middle. One of Neil's longest ever sieges.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

26 Trad 23m
12 * Faceless

thin face

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

25 Trad 20m
13 ** Picking Plums

Starts 30m left of 'Wild Iris'. In the middle of the wall is several cracklines; this climbs the furthest right one, approx in the middle of the wall. Absorbing rounded holds and the steep angle keep you guessing right until the end. The gear is great however and a chain on top makes descent easy.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

19 Trad 17m
14 Pineapple

Line 2m left of 'Picking Plums'. Similar sustained climbing up rounded cracks, but the rock is a little less perfect. Bring plenty of big cams. Traverse off right to chain or belay from natural bollards at top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

18 Trad 17m
15 Baddie Traddie

This route is at ground level somewhere left of previous route. It has a left trending traverse under a roof, and splitter hand crack / left facing flake emerging from the left side of this roof. The start involves pulling on grass tufts!

FA: Neil Montetih, 2004

20 Trad 25m
16 Rock Climb

Easy angled black hand crack corner 50m left of 'Gibber'. Second pitch climbs juggy face above. Not recommended.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

8 Trad 60m
17 The Dragon’s Lair

This area is around 3-400m uphill of the existing routes, approach is by a short, loose and dirty corner. Up to high point in narrow gully to see the obvious thin ridgeline which looks somewhat like a dragon's back. This route starts on the left wall, at a point where there is an obvious horizontal break.

  1. 10m (8) Traverse along this (right) for 10m to belay below orange corner.

  2. 25m (17) Up delicately with good gear and good holds just watch the rock quality. Take your time and you will be fine.

  3. 30m (17) Continue up and left to pass massive cave on its right, both gear and holds thin out in the middle of this pitch. Belay about level with the top of the cave.

  4. 25m (12) Easily up to top. Scramble off just before the top of the pinnacle, to the south side, heading east through narrow gully. Retrace your path to the beginning.

FA: Joe Goding, Stephen Holloway, 2003

17 Trad 90m 4
18 The Drifting

Start 3-4m right of arete about 20m uphill from 'Pineapple'. Up for 4m, right a little, then pretty much straight up. Wall is deceptively steep with good holds and gear. Scramble up right (looking out) to rap from sling around good bollard.

FA: Nina Cullen & Steve Holloway, 2003

15 Trad 25m
19 Not Just a Pretty Face

A major cliff and pants splitting line. Start at top of ramp right of 'Gibber' and 'Face the Dissection'. Weave your way up and right, till tricky moves left allow you to gain the base of the crack. Blast up the widening crack past some slightly dodgy rock in places, but loads of good gear, till easier ground and finally a chain anchor is reached. Take a full rack including lots of big gear. Steve Holloway had his eye on this in '02 and added the rap chain, but never got his act together to actually climb it.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2007

22 Trad 35m

1.12. The Lost World 38 routes in Crag

Trad and Sport
Approach:© (nmonteith)

Follow Jananginj Jawi track for 2km then follow cairned walking track until cairns run out then head left over the black slabs towards the tiered orange wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Orinoco Flow

Mind-blowing roof and arete.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

25 Mixed 30m, 1
2 *** Orinoco Fill

Starts as per OF. Climb steep roof to large horizontal. Instead of climbing thin seam/arete move right onto streaked grey wall.

FA: Phil Gruber, 2014

25 Trad 30m
3 * Malcolm and Andy's New route

2m right of LBL,

  1. 30m 23. Up flake over bulge past bolt, trending left through next bulges past fixed pin to sloping belay ledge.

  2. 10m 22 Straight up past bolt and continue up on horizontal breaks to absail chain. Rap off on a 70m just

FFA: Malcolm Matherson,Andy Schmutter, 2014

23 Mixed 70m 2, 2
4 ** Little Boy Lost

The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.

  1. 15m (23) Sustained under-clinging leads to semi-hanging belay.

  2. 25m (24) From belay, go right, up, and back left, weaving around arete to belay below final roof.

  3. 15m (17) Step left, up, traverse right and up.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991

24 Trad 55m 3
5 ** Eye's Wide Shut

Diabolical slab start followed by very continuous steep red wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2012

26 Sport 25m, 8
6 ** A Space Odyssey Pitch 1

The gigantic roof just left of 'Little Boy Lost'.Looks like the prow of a battleship, as seen from the waterline.First pitch goes up to and second pitch underclings the upside-down roof arête. Pitches described separately. Black rounded arête immediately right of the chimney/gulch. You have to bridge up the gully to start, followed by awkward and off balance arete climbing.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

26 Sport 30m, 8
7 ** A Space Odyssey PItch 2 Left Side

Super exposed upside-down roof-arête.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

27 Sport 15m, 3
8 * The Obelisk

Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

27 Sport 20m, 4
9 * Humboldt

Start up pockets as for 'Cosmos', then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 2003

21 Trad 20m
10 ** Cosmos

Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof. Trad with some bolts.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

22 Trad 20m
11 Round the Twist

Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack.

FFA: Jack Jane, 2011

18 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 ** Toucan

Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.

  1. 30m (19) Beautiful crack which bisects the otherwise smooth wall.When the angle eases, head up diagonally right to belay near arete.

  2. 30m (19) Step left to little orange corner.Verge right up wall and pull over roof. Traverse left along lip of the roof to the brink (fantastic exposure), then up headwall to top, finishing just left of little triangular summit overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tim Lockwood (alt), 2003

19 Trad 60m 2
13 * Toucan Direct

Direct version of the 2nd pitch. Straight up instead of right

FFA: Malcolm Matheso, Anthony Patterson, 2012

22 Trad 20m
14 *** Roraima

Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 2003

18 Trad 20m
15 * Roraima Rob's Variant

Rightward horizontal break

FFA: Rob Oliver, Malcolm MAtheson, 2011

19 Trad
16 ** Casiquiare

Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, 2003

21 Trad 25m
17 * Amazonia

Wall right of Eau Rouge with a traverse in from the right to avoid the blank wall. Trad with some bolts

FFA: Malcolm Matheso, Rob Oliver, 2011

22 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 *** Eau Rouge

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

23 Mixed 32m, 3
19 *** Red LIne

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

28 Mixed 30m, 3
20 * Pterodactyl

One piece of trad to start then 3 bolts. Bouldery on awesome rock.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

25 Sport 15m, 3
21 * Iguanadon

Same start as Pterodactyl (trad) then head left and up past 4 bolts to same anchor.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

25 Sport 15m, 4
22 * Lost in Antiquity

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

  1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

  2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off

FFA: Malcolm Matheson and Adam Demmert, 2014

23 Trad 40m 2
23 ** The Land That Time Forgot

Follows stellar arete which starts down and left of redline. 2 bolts and trad on both pitches.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

26 Mixed 20m 2, 4
24 ** The Land That Time Forgot Pitch 2

2 bolts and trad.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

25 Mixed 20m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 * Jurassic Adventure

Desperate laybacking. 4 bolt sport route with lower off in gully around left of Redline.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

25 Sport 15m, 4
26 * The Valley of Fear

The next route in the gully. Difficult moves up and right to gain corner. Continue technically up corner to small overlap where you move on to arete. Head up this and left to anchors. 2 Fixed hangers and 3 rings.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2012

25 Sport 12m, 5
27 My Friend the Murderer Project - Closed

CLOSED PROJECT - Adam Demmert - Next route left up the Gully. Rightward diagonal seam.

Sport Project
28 Malcolm's other crack project

Further up the gully from MFTM is another hard crack line Malcolm has cleaned and is working, possibly 30+

29 The Mind Tinker

It is thought that this route takes the big easy line up the lower tier and crosses the upper terrace to the yellow corner, probably neasr "Humboldt". Looks worthless.

In the middle of the cliff right of "The Go-Between" an easy-angled grey corner is the only break in the initial overhangs. Above is an impressive yellow corner.

  1. 45m (14) A tricky start then doddle up just right of the corner to a tree belay.

  2. 25m (-) Up easily to terrace below the yellow corner.

  3. 45m (14) Fight up the vines into the chimney 9just left of "Humboldt" and bridge up this to a ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Easily up jugs on left arete.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien (alt), 1975

14 Trad 130m 4
30 * Indiana Jones

Quite a bit of excitement. Takes the big orange wall right of " The Go-Between". Start a few metres right of that climb.

  1. 30m (22) Around overhang and up wall following a vague orange streak between three overhangs. Step right to belay in an eyrie.

  2. 25m (22) Tend left up wall to smooth red streak then straight up wall. Step left to go through break in overhang and up final wall.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

22 Trad 55m 2
31 * Pterodactyl Attack

Takes the major black streak up the headwall left of Indiana Jones, with a very thin crux amongst some amazing moderate climbing on great rock.

Straight up wall left of IJ to follow left leading diagonal line to it's end. Up overhanging wall to grey slab where the holds (and gear) appear to run out. Thin moves (and small wires) lead to relief at the overlap. If you survived the prehistoric birds, jug it out over final roof and up to belay.

FA: @goshenw,@dickl, 21st Nov

23 Trad 45m
32 The Go-Between

Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.

  1. 34m (7) Start on massive jugs and continue up and left into the line. Belay out on the left wall when the crack bends sharpest to the left.

  2. 45m (7) Climb the left wall to the top.

FA: Chris O'Brien, Chris Baxter (alt), 1975

7 Trad 79m 2
33 * The Last Crusade

Steep cracky goodness. Hand to finger. Way over left on a separate wall.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert, 2011

24 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
34 * One Small Step for a Space Cadet

Down on the lower level again, this is the orange wall you see walking towards this area. Follow orange scoops up wall. Tricky start leads to sneaky moves left at 3rd bolt to gain next leadge/scoops. follow these to bust out on the thin face to finish.

FFA: Adam Demmert, James Scott-Bohanna, 1912

25 Sport 18m, 6
35 Malcolm's Crack

Bring your arms and your technique. 40 degrees overhanging and sick.

Trad Project
36 Closed Project - James Scott Bohannan

Closed Project Please Stay off.

37 * A Fortunate Life

Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish.

FFA: James Scott Bohanna, Adam Demmert, 2012

24 Mixed 10m, 4
38 Malcolm Trad

1.13. Bouldering 1 route in Area

All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Dick Snot

8 move cliff, no top out.

FA: Paul "Punk" Westwood, 2001

V13 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 ** Rosetta Ridge Trad 150m 1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi
7 The Go-Between Trad 79m 2 1.12. The Lost World
8 Shivers Slab Trad 70m 1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi
Rock Climb Trad 60m 1.11. Gondwanaland
9 * Cold Feet Trad 35m 1.9. Weirs Creek
Return Of The Native Trad 50m 1.9. Weirs Creek
10 Nose Hairs Trad 100m 1.3. Eureka Wall
Son Of Clean Cut Sport 18m 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
Ants On Heat Trad 19m 1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi
Carousel Trad 45m 1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi
11 ** Book of leaves Trad 40m 2 1.2. Hidden Buttress
Going In Blind Trad 90m 2 1.3. Eureka Wall
12 Hunter Gatherer Trad 50m 1.4. Eureka Towers
Roaming Hands Trad 35m 1.8. Worthless Wall
13 Joy Elizabeth Trad 20m 1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi
14 Plat Du Jour Sport 15m 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
Centre Of The Magic Cleft Trad 40m 1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi
Dandelion Wine Trad 33m 1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi
The Mind Tinker Trad 130m 4 1.12. The Lost World
15 Sleeper Service Sport 60m 2 1.9. Weirs Creek
The Drifting Trad 25m 1.11. Gondwanaland
16 * Brighten the Corners Sport 10m, 7 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
Chinese Bombs Sport 10m, 4 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
* Sleep No More Sport 20m 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
* Thank God for the French Mixed 20m, 1 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
The Alkali Tide Trad 50m 2 1.6. Alkali Tide Wall
Contact Trad 12m 1.9. Weirs Creek
Grey Area Trad 12m 1.9. Weirs Creek
Mailorder Bribe Sport 15m, 6 1.9. Weirs Creek
16 PG Jimmy John's Direct Trad 70m 1.3. Eureka Wall
16 R * Grit Life Trad 20m 1.11. Gondwanaland
17 Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle Trad 50m 1.3. Eureka Wall
Bonobo Mixed 20m, 1 1.9. Weirs Creek
Matter Sport 10m, 5 1.9. Weirs Creek
** Widow Of Opportunity Sport 25m, 10 1.9. Weirs Creek
* Standing Ovation Trad 30m 1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi
The Dragon’s Lair Trad 90m 4 1.11. Gondwanaland
18 *** Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches) Trad 55m 2 1.3. Eureka Wall
* Stray Sheep Sport 30m, 13 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
Villiers Terrace Sport 15m 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
Pineapple Trad 17m 1.11. Gondwanaland
* Up The Road Trad 20m 1.11. Gondwanaland
** Wild Iris Trad 15m 1.11. Gondwanaland
*** Roraima Trad 20m 1.12. The Lost World
Round the Twist Trad 20m 1.12. The Lost World
19 ** Disparate Housewives Sport 20m, 7 1.9. Weirs Creek
** The Young And The Wrestlers Sport 25m, 10 1.9. Weirs Creek
3 minute rule Sport 15m, 8 1.9.1. West Side
Gibber Trad 45m 1.11. Gondwanaland
Green Room Trad 35m 1.11. Gondwanaland
** Picking Plums Trad 17m 1.11. Gondwanaland
* Roraima Rob's Variant Trad 1.12. The Lost World
** Toucan Trad 60m 2 1.12. The Lost World
20 Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns Trad 1.3. Eureka Wall
Maxwell's Demon Trad 20m 1.3. Eureka Wall
Pythagoras' Theorem P1 Trad 10m 1.3. Eureka Wall
New Normal Sport 15m, 10 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
Dumber Bay Sport 8m, 3 1.9. Weirs Creek
* Lapsed Pacifist Sport 15m, 7 1.9.1. West Side
* Footless Emu Trad 30m 1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi
Slippery When Wet Trad 45m 1.10. Yanganaginj Njawi
Baddie Traddie Trad 25m 1.11. Gondwanaland
* Wild Iris RHV Trad 15m 1.11. Gondwanaland
20 R Jardwadjaliland Trad 35m 1.4. Eureka Towers
21 ** Splinter Sport 17m, 9 1.1. Spanish Galleon
Liberal Party Sport 14m, 8 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
*** Hysteria Lane Sport 25m, 11 1.9. Weirs Creek
Revolver Sport 20m, 8 1.9.1. West Side
* Right Caliber Sport 18m, 7 1.9.1. West Side
* Chasing the Sun Trad 20m 1.11. Gondwanaland
** Casiquiare Trad 25m 1.12. The Lost World
* Humboldt Trad 20m 1.12. The Lost World
22 Archimedes Principle P1 Trad 20m 1.3. Eureka Wall
*** Return to Gariwerd Trad 22m 2 1.4. Eureka Towers
Cuttting The Grass Sport 26m, 11 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
** Think Twice Trad 20m 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
** Upper Cut Sport 20m, 12 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
** Me and My Gun Sport 20m, 8 1.9.1. West Side
* Reload.......Now! Sport 18m, 8 1.9.1. West Side
Not Just a Pretty Face Trad 35m 1.11. Gondwanaland
* Voss Trad 50m 1.11. Gondwanaland
* Amazonia Trad 25m 1.12. The Lost World
** Cosmos Trad 20m 1.12. The Lost World
* Indiana Jones Trad 55m 2 1.12. The Lost World
* Toucan Direct Trad 20m 1.12. The Lost World
23 Darwin's Theory pitch 3 Trad 10m 1.3. Eureka Wall
*** Diminishing Returns (Top Half) Trad 30m 1.3. Eureka Wall
Deadly Rhythm Sport 15m, 10 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
* Gerbil's Route Sport 20m, 12 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
* Sea Within A Sea Sport 30m, 11 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
** Trouble Cut Sport 14m, 7 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
* Two Birdies Sport 20m, 10 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
** Sailing Away Mixed 45m, 3 1.7. The Red Sail
** Barefoot and Poignant Sport 20m, 10 1.9. Weirs Creek
Fumbles Route Sport 18m 1.9. Weirs Creek
** Let it Burn! Sport 25m, 9 1.9. Weirs Creek
Smoky and the Banditos LHV Sport 20m, 9 1.9. Weirs Creek
** Pump Action Sport 20m, 9 1.9.1. West Side
** Terra Incognita Trad 50m 1.11. Gondwanaland
*** Eau Rouge Mixed 32m, 3 1.12. The Lost World
* Lost in Antiquity Trad 40m 2 1.12. The Lost World
* Malcolm and Andy's New route Mixed 70m 2, 2 1.12. The Lost World
* Pterodactyl Attack Trad 45m 1.12. The Lost World
24 ** Four on the Floor Sport 24m, 11 1.1. Spanish Galleon
* Foucault's Pendulum Trad 45m 1.3. Eureka Wall
** Newton's Law Trad 30m 1.3. Eureka Wall
* Fratin Brothers Sport 15m, 9 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
* Climber Wants a Wife Sport 14m, 6 1.9. Weirs Creek
* Fairies and Blutterfies Sport 20m, 9 1.9. Weirs Creek
*** Silencer Sport 25m, 12 1.9.1. West Side
** Face the Dissection Trad 35m 1.11. Gondwanaland
* A Fortunate Life Mixed 10m, 4 1.12. The Lost World
** Little Boy Lost Trad 55m 3 1.12. The Lost World
* The Last Crusade Trad 12m 1.12. The Lost World
25 ** Schrodinger's Cat Mixed 45m, 4 1.3. Eureka Wall
*** Vege Maths Mixed 30m, 8 1.3. Eureka Wall
* Tchingal the Emu Trad 50m 2 1.4. Eureka Towers
* Cut Throat Sport 12m, 7 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
* Observations Of The Scene Sport 25m 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
** The CCC (Clean Cut Clan) Sport 25m, 13 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
* The Man Who Sold The World Sport 26m 2 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
* Smoky and the Banditos Sport 20m 1.9. Weirs Creek
* Faceless Trad 20m 1.11. Gondwanaland
* Iguanadon Sport 15m, 4 1.12. The Lost World
* Jurassic Adventure Sport 15m, 4 1.12. The Lost World
* One Small Step for a Space Cadet Sport 18m, 6 1.12. The Lost World
*** Orinoco Fill Trad 30m 1.12. The Lost World
*** Orinoco Flow Mixed 30m, 1 1.12. The Lost World
* Pterodactyl Sport 15m, 3 1.12. The Lost World
** The Land That Time Forgot Pitch 2 Mixed 20m, 2 1.12. The Lost World
* The Valley of Fear Sport 12m, 5 1.12. The Lost World
26 *** Archimedes' Principle Mixed 60m 3, 2 1.3. Eureka Wall
* Ockham's Razor Mixed 40m, 5 1.3. Eureka Wall
*** Pythagoras' Theorem Mixed 50m 2, 3 1.3. Eureka Wall
** Bristol Fashion Mixed 45m 2, 1 1.7. The Red Sail
* Flail Furiously for Footholds Sport 25m, 5 1.9. Weirs Creek
** Face Off Trad 23m 1.11. Gondwanaland
** A Space Odyssey Pitch 1 Sport 30m, 8 1.12. The Lost World
** Eye's Wide Shut Sport 25m, 8 1.12. The Lost World
** The Land That Time Forgot Mixed 20m 2, 4 1.12. The Lost World
27 Diminishing Returns Sport 30m 1.3. Eureka Wall
** String Theory Mixed 80m 2, 8 1.3. Eureka Wall
** Highly Evolved Sport 30m, 11 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
** A Space Odyssey PItch 2 Left Side Sport 15m, 3 1.12. The Lost World
* The Obelisk Sport 20m, 4 1.12. The Lost World
28 Cats & Dogs Mixed 10 1.3. Eureka Wall
*** Shallow Water Sport 25m, 10 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
*** Red LIne Mixed 30m, 3 1.12. The Lost World
29 *** Pavlov's Dog Sport 14 1.3. Eureka Wall
30 *** General Relativity Trad 48m 1.3. Eureka Wall
V13 ** Dick Snot Boulder 1.13. Bouldering
? Amusing Musings Sport Project 12m, 9 1.1. Spanish Galleon
** Diss obedience Sport Project 20m, 9 1.1. Spanish Galleon
** Hold it, Now Hit it! Sport Project 24m, 12 1.1. Spanish Galleon
** TMCM's Guide for the Perplexed Sport Project 9 1.1. Spanish Galleon
** The Existentialist Debater Sport Project 20m, 9 1.1. Spanish Galleon
Too Much German White Chocolate Woman With Almonds Sport Project 15m, 9 1.1. Spanish Galleon
Open project Sport 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
Project - CLOSED (Phil Neville) Sport 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
Project - open Sport 1.5. Clean Cut Walls
Closed Project Sport Project 1.9. Weirs Creek
? Open Project Sport 15m 1.9. Weirs Creek
* Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish Sport Project 1.9. Weirs Creek
Special Circumstances (Open Project) Trad 15m 1.9. Weirs Creek
Closed Project - James Scott Bohannan Sport 1.12. The Lost World
Malcolm Trad 1.12. The Lost World
Malcolm's Crack Trad Project 1.12. The Lost World
Malcolm's other crack project Trad 1.12. The Lost World
My Friend the Murderer Project - Closed Sport Project 1.12. The Lost World