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Table of contents

1. Eureka Area 152 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 142.313457, -37.216658

Description:© (nmonteith)

Far northern end of the 'Victoria' Ranges. Has a collection of the most brilliant mid-twenties climbs in the country.

Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

All of the crags lie above the old vehicle track to Jananginj Jawi (Emu's Foot). This track is now permanently closed to vehicles making for substantially longer approaches. When Matthew's Track (seasonal 4WD) is open, it can be used until below the chosen cliff, shortening the length of the walk. The Jananginj Jawi track is gained from Red Rock Road about 5km north of Muline Creek. Matthew's Track is a further 1 km north.

1.1. Hidden Buttress 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This 45m high buttress is located up and right of The Lost World, directly behind a nice steep orange face (kind of looks like it should be part of that cliff from the road until you start walking up to it and realise it's separated). Climbing potential here is sadly limited however - but perhaps a little more development is available.

Approach:

Walk up to The Lost World and rather than cutting left at the slab keep going up and right up the gulley to the detatched buttress.

Descent Notes:

Walk off the back and down the gulley.

History:

Discovered by Jurgen Bollenger while waiting for Anthony Pattison on the way down after a great day at Lost World - we thought it was a free-standing pillar of about twice the height. Oh well.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Book of leaves

A fantastic outing up a good line with good gear and pretty good quality rock (for a new route!). Starts on the lower side of the buttress, on the RHS at a steep crack. Up this and into the corner where you will be rewarded with lots of fun, interesting, sustained bridging for the grade with good gear. Pitch at the ledge (about 25m) or continue on to the top.

Located at GPS points S37 11.365 E142 16.268 @ 510m above sea level.

FA: Josef Goding & Ross Richards (Alts), 2014

11Trad 40m

1.2. Eureka Wall 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.277062, -37.194314

Description:© (nmonteith)

Steve Monks had a verrrry good month in February 1991.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Go about 3 km along Jananginj Jawi track to the highest point in the road and follow a rough, cairned track up the hillside.

35 minute walk up the hill.

It's worth going a further 200 metres(approx.) east along the road from the parking area to get a view of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jimmy John's Direct

Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths.

FFA: Phil Gruber and Jimmy Gruber, 21st Sep

16Trad 70m
2 Nose Hairs

Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's.

FA: Jimmy, lily & phil Gruber

10Trad 100m
3 Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag. The next crack left of Newton's Law, 3 metres left of Maxwell's Demon, move left at ledge and continue straight up.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

17Trad 50m
4 Maxwell's Demon

A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992

20Trad 20m
5 ** Newton's Law

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, 1991

24Trad 30m
6 ** Diminishing Returns (Top Half)

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

23Trad 30m
7 Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns

Link up - Climb Darwins Theory to the top of the first pitch (obvious big break) the head up Diminishing returns for the last couple of bolts to anchor

20Trad
8 ** Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches)

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18.

Start: Start as for Newton's Law.

  1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break.

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

18Trad 55m
9 Darwin's Theory pitch 3

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

23Trad 10m
10 * Foucault's Pendulum

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's 'Theory' to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimede's Principle, finishing as for that route.

FA: Ross Taylor, Adam Demmert, 2009

24Trad 45m
11 Diminishing Returns

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

27Sport 30m
12 * Archimedes Principle P1 22Trad 20m
13 *** Archimedes' Principle

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. Often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

  1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

  2. 30m (26) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

  3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this.

FA: Keith Lockwood (p1), Steve Monks (p2&3), 1991

26Mixed 60m, 2
14 ** String Theory

Pitch 1 - 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

Pitch 2 - 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

Start: Start as for AP

FFA: Adam Demmert, Malcolm Matherson, 17th Nov

27Mixed 80m, 8
15 Pythagoras' Theorem P1 20Trad 10m
16 *** Pythagoras' Theorem

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

  1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

  2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood (1), Steve Monks (2&3), 1991

26Mixed 50m, 3
17 * Ockham's Razor

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2009

26Mixed 40m, 5
18 *** General Relativity

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

FA: 2014

30Trad 48m
19 *** Pavlov's Dog

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

Set by kp, 2014

29Sport 14
20 Cats & Dogs

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

FA: clean cut phil

28Mixed 10
21 ** Schrodinger's Cat

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above.

FA: Steve Monks, Martin Scheel, 1991

25Mixed 45m, 4
22 *** Vege Maths

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

FA: Toby Pola & Kent Paterson

25Mixed 30m, 8

1.3. Eureka Towers 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Approach:© (nmonteith)

Approach as for 'Eureka Wall' and continue uphill for a further 10 minutes on a rough pad.

routes are desribed from right-to-left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Return to Gariwerd

Lovely climbing with excellent protection. Much easier than it looks.

  1. 22m (22) Up thin broken crack right of "Hunter Gatherer", step left then straight up the grey streak.

  2. 25m (21) Sounds quite good. Hand traverse straight left from the belay for 13 metres under the roof. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds are more spaced. Finally pull the roof at a weakness and continue up easy, low angle rock to a natural anchor. Two rappels off slung features back to the ground. "5.10+".

FA: Louise Shepherd, Simon Mentz (P2 by Joshua Janesish), 2003

22Trad 22m
2 Hunter Gatherer

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

FA: Kieth Lockwood, Enga Lokey, 1991

12Trad 50m
3 Jardwadjaliland

Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, Enga Lokey, 1991

20 RTrad 35m
4 * Tchingal the Emu

Start: Start down left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  1. 15m (17) Up the corner to the ledges just left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  2. 35m (25) Up to the flake that crosses the roof, swing out along this then up the smooth headwall to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Damien Carol, 1991

25Trad 50m

1.4. Clean Cut Walls 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice sport climbing venue near eureka. There is a good range of grades but the cliff is best 23 and above. If you have not been to eureka, please do yourself a favour and go as it's an amazing cliff.

Description:

Two prominent orange tiers lower and left of Eureka Walls. Gets shade at 3pm.

Access Issues:

Please respect all tagged projects.

Approach:

Walk in as per Eureka. Before Eureka turn left at obvious orange walls. Welcome to clean cuts. The upper tier requires access from scrambling up grey jug wall (grade 3??). Please use fixed line on right side. If dangerous please notify me. Please use fixed ropes when scrambling around. Abseil station is located next to shallow waters start. Alternatively you can walk in via left or right hand side. Gets shade around 3pm.

Ethic:

Please do not bring groups here. The access is not suitable for beginners.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project - Son Of Clean Cut

Up grey wall around corner from HE

FA: Jimmy Gruber, 2014

Sport Project
2 ** Highly Evolved

Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman. Awesome either way.

FA: kp & crazy andy, 2014

27Sport 20m, 11
3 * Stray Sheep

Fab warm up. Starts up crack system.

FA: kp & adam d, 2014

18Sport 30m, 13
4 * Sea Within A Sea

The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab.

FA: kp & crazy andy

23Sport 30m, 11
5 * Sleep No More

Great pocketed corner line. Accessed via fixed rope.

FA: Emi K

16Sport
6 Chinese Bombs

LHS of grey face. bouldery at start. Drop a grade or two if you bridge up the tree.

16Sport 10m, 4
7 Plat Du Jour

Starts on RHS of grey face. Bridge up tree to grab first jug.

FA: Emi K

14Sport
8 Project - CLOSED (Phil Neville)

Starts 3m left of TC. Unlikely.

Set by Kp

Sport
9 Trouble Cut

Orange wall left of grey seam. On upper tier. Has chain on second bolt.

FA: kp, 2014

23Sport 14m, 7
10 * Fratin Brothers

Grey Seam on Upper Tier

FA: kp, 2014

24Sport 15m, 9
11 * Cut Throat

Starts few meters right of FB off the block. Up via thin side pulls.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 7th Sep

24Sport 12m, 7
12 Brighten the Corners

The bolted corner.

16Sport 10m, 7
13 Open project

thin face 3m right if BTC

Sport
14 * The Man Who Sold The World

Two pitches on LHS of orange butress. Pretty much the pilot error of the gramps (novelty photo route).

Set by Kp, 2014

25Sport 26m
15 Project - Shallower Water

Does all the hard stuff of SW then adds 10m of more hard climbing in stunning position.

Sport Project
16 ** Shallow Water

Up on upper tier. Through water streak on beautiful orange face. Has chain on third bolt.

Set by kp, 2014

28Sport 25m, 10
17 Project - Observations Of The Scene

Starts as TB then moves left up lovely orange face.

Sport Project 25m
18 * Two Birdies

Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic...

FA: kp & adam d, 2014

23Sport 20m, 10
19 Cuttting The Grass

Straight up the crack. Enjoy the great water polished rock.

FA: KP & Andrew Anderson, 2014

22Sport 26m, 11
20 ** The CCC (Clean Cut Clan)

Starts as per TB then goes right after rootlet across slab and up steep wall via a hard crux. May be easier than graded

FFA: Adam Demmert, Mike Tomkins, 7th Sep

25Sport 25m, 13
21 * Upper Cut

Starts as per VT. Big traverse left. Place 1.2m sling on bolt no. 6

22Sport 20m, 12
22 New Normal

Start as per VT, after 4th bolt veer left past 4 more bolts.

FA: Kp

20Sport 15m, 10
23 Villiers Terrace

Bolted Water streaks on Right side of fixed lines. Shared start to other routes.

Set by Kp

18Sport 15m
24 Deadly Rhythm

...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow

Set by Kp, 2014

23Sport 15m, 10
25 * Liberal Party

The far right....starts on a slab.

21Sport 14m, 8
26 * Gerbil's Route

Starts on far right hand end of clean cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.

FA: kp & adam d, 2014

23Sport 20m, 12

1.5. Alkali Tide Wall 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The existing route doesn't warrant the walk.

Approach:

Follow the Eureka Wall track past the lower cliff band to the second, larger cliff band. Walk right 300-400 metres below this cliff to the right-hand end. (Turning left instead of right would take you to 'Clean Cut Walls', a much more promising destination).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Alkali Tide

Worth doing for the second pitch experience (not!).

Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.

  1. 30m (16) Boulder the roof then up to ledge. Slither up through overhang. Up 1 metre right of faded guano streak. Up and past left end of grassy ledge (slings). Belay on arete.

  2. 20m (1) Up.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

16Trad 50m

1.6. The Red Sail 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A stunning orange pillar east of and below "Eureka Wall" and clearly visible from the Jananginj Jawi track. A vague animal pad leads up to the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Bristol Fashion

The left arete of the buttress.

  1. 20m (22) Up "Sailing Away" for 15 metres then traverse left past a BR to a HBB on left arete.

  2. 25m (26) Up the blunt arete above the belay and up to a rest at a huge flake. Up to the roof (crux) and climb rightward across this to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Damien Carol, 1991

26Mixed 45m, 1
2 ** Sailing Away

The spectacular right arete.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

23Mixed 45m, 3

1.7. Worthless Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

The name appears apt. There are vast quantities of un-appealing rock with one or two better bits poking out.

Approach:© (kieranl)

This crag lies above the junction of Syphon Road and Matthew Track. It used to be approached along a 4WD track starting 75 metres along Matthew Track from this junction. This track no longer exists. Instead, from the gate on Matthew Track walk south-west into the bush toward the most reasonable-looking piece of rock for about 30 minutes. Fragments of the old track may be encountered en-route.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roaming Hands

Only worthwhile crack and is on left side of a steep, clean wall. Scramble up to a terrace to start. Climb crack and abseil from tree.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1980

12Trad 35m

1.8. Weirs Creek 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.294552, -37.208216

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some good moderate sport and easy trad

Description:© (kieranl)

Weirs Creek is the main drainage east of Emus' Foot. The lowest crag on 'Weirs Creek' looks like a pile of choss. However, there are some good things tucked away. The "Disparate Housewives Wall" offers excellent moderate sport-climbing and there are some other things scattered about and some other potential.

The bottom of "Disparate Housewives Wall" seeps heavily for a long time after rain so be prepared to bail water from holds during spring. This wall faces west and comes into the sun about 1 PM (Daylight-saving time). An early start is advised in summer.

The creek water is safe to drink and on a warm day is very nice just before the 10 minutes uphill back to the car. To help keep it that way please take care with toileting. A trowel is in place at the base of the cliff to help bury faeces. Please descend the track a little and then go across the hillside away from the creek to do your business. Dig a good hole.

Also, please carry out any used toilet or tissue paper that doesn't require burial. Take some plastic bags to carry the used paper.

Approach:

Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Matter

Pleasant face near the top of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010

17Sport 10m, 5
2 Open Project

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

Sport 15m
3 Smoky and the Banditos LHV

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

23Sport 20m, 9
4 * Smoky and the Banditos

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Catherine de Vaus, 2012

25Sport 20m
5 * Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

FA: Adam Demmert, 2012

Sport Project
6 Special Circumstances (Open Project)

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

Unknown 15m
7 Grey Area

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

16Trad 12m
8 Contact

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2010

16Trad 12m
9 Return Of The Native

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

Start: Start at the left side of the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

9Trad 50m
10 Sleeper Service

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

  2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman (alt), 2010

15Sport 60m
11 Dumber Bay

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top.

The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly.

Start: Scramble out the ramp left od"Disparate Housewives" to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

20Sport 8m, 3
12 * Climber Wants a Wife

FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, 2012

23Sport 14m, 6
13 ** Disparate Housewives

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2010

19Sport 20m, 7
14 ** The Young And The Wrestlers

More steep pocket-pulling leads to a finish crack.

Start: Just right of "Disparate Housewives"

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2011

19Sport 25m, 10
15 ** Hysteria Lane

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Again grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

21Sport 25m, 10
16 ** Widow Of Opportunity

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch.

Start: Start from ledge just above cave right of "Hysteria Lane".

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

17Sport 25m, 10
17 ** Barefoot and Poignant

Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades.

Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2011

23Sport 20m, 10
18 Closed Project

Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...

Sport
19 ** Fairies and Blutterfies

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. A little crumbly rock higher doesn't really detract.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2013

24Sport 20m, 9
20 ** Let it Burn!

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Paul Geil,

23Sport 25m, 9
21 Bonobo

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

FA: M. Johnston

17Mixed 20m, 1
22 * Flail Furiously for Footholds

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

FA: M. Johnston, S. Holloway

26Sport 25m, 5
23 Mailorder Bribe

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

16Sport 15m, 6

1.8.1. West Side 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Compact orange and grey wall on West side of Weirs Creek. Morning sun and afternoon shade.

Approach:

New approach - As for Pocket Wall (Weirs Creek) - At end of Emus Foot (Jananginj Jawi) Track, turn right off the vehicle track (approx 200 metres down hill from gate after third 'speed' hump). Head diagonally left up towards the crag through open bush, crossing two creeks (second of which is normally running). At second creek, follow creek bed up to just below crags, then follow intermittent cairns up left to wall. Approximate walking time from gate at end of Emus Foot Track is 15 minutes

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Reload.......Now!

Start off boulder at left end of wall. Up wall on great jugs to base of head wall where holds become significantly smaller (crux)! Up to lower off on very top of wall.

For another good warm up - go right at second last bolt to lower off above Revolver (Grade 17/18)

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, 9th Nov

22Sport 18m, 8
2 Lapsed Pacifist

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. From the tree-fern gully continue steeply up the hillside below the cliffs. Continue past the large, rust-coloured slabby corner to the next gully and up a little to below the orange streaks. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

21Sport 15m, 7
3 * Revolver

Starts at small hanging corner just down right of LP. Stick clip first bolt. Up corner (crux) to join LP at third bolt, step left then up keeping right of bolts to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, 2014

21Sport 20m, 8
4 ** Me and My Gun

Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. Start off rock step, THIN holds to start past first bolt (crux). Up right to undercling then straight up wall to dbl bolt lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 2014

22Sport 20m, 8
5 *** Pump Action

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start, up short corner for a few moves (as for 3 minute Rule), out left on small holds on horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, Anthony Pattison, 13th Sep

22Sport 20m, 9
6 CLOSED Project A

Closed Project - Link up between Pump Action and Me and My Gun

Set by Steve Holloway

Sport Project 12
7 * Right Caliber

Same start as for Revolver. At third bolt (as for LP), rising traverse out right using bolts on Me and My Gun and Pump Action (use long draws) to lower off on right arete above 3 minute rule.

Another good variant is to continue up Me and My Gun from middle of traverse. (FA Steve and Amanda Holloway - 21/09/2014

FA: Steve Holloway, Anthony Pattison

21Sport 18m, 7
8 * 3 minute rule

Good warm up. Undercut start (as for Pump Action and Project A), up short corner and then up wall above to lower off on arete

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 21st Sep

19Sport 15m, 7

1.9. Jananginj Jawi 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Access Issues:

The crag contains a major indigenous art site and climbing should not take place on any of the routes near the art site. 'Footless Emu' is probably far enough from the art-site to be climbed but it is strongly suggested that chalk not be used.

Approach:

Follow the Jananginj Jawi track for 4 km and walk up to the huge red overhangs of the art site.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ants On Heat

Up the wall to diagonal ramp under the impressive headwall. Right along ramp then up chimney.

Start: About 50 metres left of "Carousel" the track swings up under an east-facing wall. Scramble up to the left end.

10Trad 19m
2 Carousel

Start: Chimney line, second line on left from where the cliff is reached.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Cunningham (alt), 1978

10Trad 45m
3 Centre Of The Magic Cleft

Start: First line on the left as the cliff is reached.

14Trad 40m
4 Slippery When Wet

Completely out of bounds behind the cage. Finger crack. Second line right of where the cliff is reached.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1978

20Trad 45m
5 Shivers Slab

Grey slab 100 metres right of "Slippery When Wet"

8Trad 70m
6 Dandelion Wine

Slab then chockstones just right of "Shiver's Slab".

14Trad 33m
7 * Standing Ovation

Flake crack on left edge of buttress right of 'Dandelion Wine'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Phillip Armstrong, Iain Sedgman, 1977

17Trad 30m
8 * Footless Emu

The best line on the cliff and far enough from the art site that climbing it shouldn't be a problem. Proobaly a good idea to leave the chalkbag behind though.

This was done just before cams were introduced and protecting the horizontal cracks on the traverse was difficult. A direct finish is begging.

On the right side of the outcrops is an orange corner leading to a roof.

FA: Rod Young, Peter Cunningham, 1978

20Trad 30m
9 Joy Elizabeth

Start by scrambling around to the top of the main cliff and aligning with the approach track. If you turn around towards the hillside, there should be a small buttress with a crack before you. The crack is it.

13Trad 20m
10 ** Rosetta Ridge

Classic bumbly route in great position. The approach just adds to the adventure.

It takes the massive whaleback ridge that is almost equidistant between "Gondwanaland" and "Red Sail" and can be approached from either.

FA: Keith Egerton, Gordon Talbett, 1978

3Trad 150m

1.10. Gondwanaland 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.285305, -37.198703

Description:© (nmonteith)

This shady large face has some very unique and sustained routes up remarkable grey rock in a similar, but easier style to nearby 'Eureka Wall'. Many of the routes feel like extended gritstone classics (but with better protection!).

Bring a spare rope for descent off the longer routes. A full trad rack should be carried, including some larger cams. Don't forget the botl plates!

The cliff comes into the shade quite early in the morning, and stays that way for the rest of the day. Perfect in summer, miserable and wet in winter.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Follow the Jananginj Jawi track for 4 km and go uphill to caged Aboriginal art site of Jananginj Jawi. Walk right along base of cliff for a few 100m until it is possible to head upwards. Follow vague track up and rightish to arrive at east facing large orange/grey wall. Walking time 20-30 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chasing the Sun

Orange slab split by thin seam and a great overhung finish. Located on separate buttress 100m left of the second short rock wall you reach on the walk up to the main cliff of 'Gondwanaland'. Bouldery start (RB) then right leading weakness to seam. Up this for 10m then skirt under orange roof and then thug back left across overhang to crux finish. Lower off last bolt or trad belay on ledge and epic walk-down descent. Four bolts plus natural gear to finger crack size. Really needs a lower-off anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Monique Forestier, Simon Carter, 2003

21Trad 20m
2 * Grit Life

bold face climb on jugs

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2003

16 RTrad 20m
3 * Up The Road

Ninety degree sharp arete with clean wall on right side about 40m right of 'Terra Incognita'. A short corner crack is climbed to a little ledge on the left, then launch up the pocketed arete with some fiddly pro. The final ten metres is jug city. 'Small' to medium gear and slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Michael Boniwell, 2003

18Trad 20m
4 Gibber

Start at the right leading ramp left of the prow. Up ramp easily then left. Up vertical wall on pockets, then easier climbing to crack system up headwall, finishing up overhanging crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1990

19Trad 45m
5 * Voss

Starts as for 'Gibber'. (1) 30m Up ramp then obvious flake crack. Continue up wall to stance. (2) 20m Up main groove to finish directly up headwall.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood (alts), Norm Booth, 1991

22Trad 50m
6 ** Terra Incognita

Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1990

23Trad 50m
7 ** Face the Dissection

Possibly Nick's finest new route? A long intricate and techincal wall with an exposed finish.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Montieth, 2002

24Trad 35m
8 ** Wild Iris

Magic pocket pulling sport route on immaculate rock. Would be amazing if longer. Starts 50m left of 'Gibber'. White pockets through bulge leads to spaced heucos on face. At third BR head right to BR then up juggy corner to rap chain. Keep an eye out for the bolts on the upper wall, they can be easy to miss!

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

18Trad 15m
9 * Wild Iris RHV / Wild Iris Right Hand Variant

At second BR traverse directly right on small pockets and little else. When your feet refuse to stay on, clip a BR then crank like crazy to gain monster pockets. Finish as for original line past last BR.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2002

20Trad 15m
10 Green Room

Leftwards leading easy pocketed corner just left 'Wild Iris'. At top of corner place wires in thin crack then swing out right desperatly onto arete and easily up this to natural; belay stance. Another pitch above on super jugs leads to top and walk off. Needs a lower-off.

FA: Steve Holloway

19Trad 35m
11 ** Face Off

The direct start to 'Faceless' past several RBs. Very long intricate face climbing. Be wary of long runout in the middle. One of Neil's longest ever sieges.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

26Trad 23m
12 * Faceless

thin face

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

25Trad 20m
13 ** Picking Plums

Starts 30m left of 'Wild Iris'. In the middle of the wall is several cracklines; this climbs the furthest right one, approx in the middle of the wall. Absorbing rounded holds and the steep angle keep you guessing right until the end. The gear is great however and a chain on top makes descent easy.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

19Trad 17m
14 Pineapple

Line 2m left of 'Picking Plums'. Similar sustained climbing up rounded cracks, but the rock is a little less perfect. Bring plenty of big cams. Traverse off right to chain or belay from natural bollards at top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

18Trad 17m
15 Baddie Traddie

This route is at ground level somewhere left of previous route. It has a left trending traverse under a roof, and splitter hand crack / left facing flake emerging from the left side of this roof. The start involves pulling on grass tufts!

FA: Neil Montetih, 2004

20Trad 25m
16 Rock Climb

Easy angled black hand crack corner 50m left of 'Gibber'. Second pitch climbs juggy face above. Not recommended.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

8Trad 60m
17 The Dragon’s Lair

This area is around 3-400m uphill of the existing routes, approach is by a short, loose and dirty corner. Up to high point in narrow gully to see the obvious thin ridgeline which looks somewhat like a dragon's back. This route starts on the left wall, at a point where there is an obvious horizontal break.

  1. 10m (8) Traverse along this (right) for 10m to belay below orange corner.

  2. 25m (17) Up delicately with good gear and good holds just watch the rock quality. Take your time and you will be fine.

  3. 30m (17) Continue up and left to pass massive cave on its right, both gear and holds thin out in the middle of this pitch. Belay about level with the top of the cave.

  4. 25m (12) Easily up to top. Scramble off just before the top of the pinnacle, to the south side, heading east through narrow gully. Retrace your path to the beginning.

FA: Joe Goding, Stephen Holloway, 2003

17Trad 90m
18 The Drifting

Start 3-4m right of arete about 20m uphill from 'Pineapple'. Up for 4m, right a little, then pretty much straight up. Wall is deceptively steep with good holds and gear. Scramble up right (looking out) to rap from sling around good bollard.

FA: Nina Cullen & Steve Holloway, 2003

15Trad 25m
19 Not Just a Pretty Face

A major cliff and pants splitting line. Start at top of ramp right of 'Gibber' and 'Face the Dissection'. Weave your way up and right, till tricky moves left allow you to gain the base of the crack. Blast up the widening crack past some slightly dodgy rock in places, but loads of good gear, till easier ground and finally a chain anchor is reached. Take a full rack including lots of big gear. Steve Holloway had his eye on this in '02 and added the rap chain, but never got his act together to actually climb it.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2007

22Trad 35m

1.11. The Lost World 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Approach:© (nmonteith)

Follow Jananginj Jawi track for 2km then follow cairned walking track until cairns run out then head left over the black slabs towards the tiered orange wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Orinoco Flow

Mind-blowing roof and arete.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

25Mixed 30m, 1
2 *** Orinoco Fill

Starts as per OF. Climb steep roof to large horizontal. Instead of climbing thin seam/arete move right onto streaked grey wall.

FA: Phil Gruber, 2014

25Trad 30m
3 ** Little Boy Lost

The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.

  1. 15m (23) Sustained under-clinging leads to semi-hanging belay.

  2. 25m (24) From belay, go right, up, and back left, weaving around arete to belay below final roof.

  3. 15m (17) Step left, up, traverse right and up.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991

24Trad 55m
4 ** Eye's Wide Shut

Diabolical slab start followed by very continuous steep red wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2012

26Sport 25m, 8
5 ** A Space Odyssey Pitch 1

The gigantic roof just left of 'Little Boy Lost'.Looks like the prow of a battleship, as seen from the waterline.First pitch goes up to and second pitch underclings the upside-down roof arête. Pitches described separately. Black rounded arête immediately right of the chimney/gulch. You have to bridge up the gully to start, followed by awkward and off balance arete climbing.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

26Sport 30m, 8
6 ** A Space Odyssey PItch 2 Left Side

Super exposed upside-down roof-arête.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

27Sport 15m, 3
7 * The Obelisk

Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

27Sport 20m, 4
8 * Humboldt

Start up pockets as for 'Cosmos', then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 2003

21Trad 20m
9 ** Cosmos

Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof. Trad with some bolts.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

22Trad 20m
10 Round the Twist

Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack.

FFA: Jack Jane, 2011

18Trad 20m
11 ** Toucan

Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.

  1. 30m (19) Beautiful crack which bisects the otherwise smooth wall.When the angle eases, head up diagonally right to belay near arete.

  2. 30m (19) Step left to little orange corner.Verge right up wall and pull over roof. Traverse left along lip of the roof to the brink (fantastic exposure), then up headwall to top, finishing just left of little triangular summit overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tim Lockwood (alt), 2003

19Trad 60m
12 * Toucan Direct

Direct version of the 2nd pitch. Straight up instead of right

FFA: Malcolm Matheso, Anthony Patterson, 2012

22Trad 20m
13 *** Roraima

Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 2003

18Trad 20m
14 * Roraima Rob's Variant

Rightward horizontal break

FFA: Rob Oliver, Malcolm MAtheson, 2011

19Trad
15 ** Casiquiare

Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, 2003

21Trad 25m
16 * Amazonia

Wall right of Eau Rouge with a traverse in from the right to avoid the blank wall. Trad with some bolts

FFA: Malcolm Matheso, Rob Oliver, 2011

22Trad 25m
17 *** Eau Rouge

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

23Mixed 32m, 3
18 *** Red LIne

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

28Mixed 30m, 3
19 * Pterodactyl

One piece of trad to start then 3 bolts. Bouldery on awesome rock.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

25Sport 15m, 3
20 * Iguanadon

Same start as Pterodactyl (trad) then head left and up past 4 bolts to same anchor.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

25Sport 15m, 4
21 * Malcolm's New Route

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

  1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

  2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson and Adam Demmert, 31st Aug

23Trad 40m
22 ** The Land That Time Forgot

Follows stellar arete which starts down and left of redline. 2 bolts and trad on both pitches.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

26Mixed 20m, 4
23 ** The Land That Time Forgot Pitch 2

2 bolts and trad.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

25Mixed 20m, 2
24 * Jurassic Adventure

Desperate laybacking. 4 bolt sport route with lower off in gully around left of Redline.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

25Sport 15m, 4
25 * The Valley of Fear

The next route in the gully. Difficult moves up and right to gain corner. Continue technically up corner to small overlap where you move on to arete. Head up this and left to anchors. 2 Fixed hangers and 3 rings.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2012

25Sport 12m, 5
26 My Friend the Murderer Project - Closed

CLOSED PROJECT - Adam Demmert - Next route left up the Gully. Rightward diagonal seam.

Sport Project
27 The Mind Tinker

It is thought that this route takes the big easy line up the lower tier and crosses the upper terrace to the yellow corner, probably neasr "Humboldt". Looks worthless.

In the middle of the cliff right of "The Go-Between" an easy-angled grey corner is the only break in the initial overhangs. Above is an impressive yellow corner.

  1. 45m (14) A tricky start then doddle up just right of the corner to a tree belay.

  2. 25m (-) Up easily to terrace below the yellow corner.

  3. 45m (14) Fight up the vines into the chimney 9just left of "Humboldt" and bridge up this to a ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Easily up jugs on left arete.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien (alt), 1975

14Trad 130m
28 * Indiana Jones

Quite a bit of excitement. Takes the big orange wall right of " The Go-Between". Start a few metres right of that climb.

  1. 40m (22) Around overhang and up wall following a vague orange streak between three overhangs. Step right to belay in an eyrie.

  2. 40m (22) Tend left up wall to smooth red streak then straight up wall. Step left to go through break in overhang and up final wall.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

22Trad 80m
29 The Go-Between

Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.

  1. 34m (7) Start on massive jugs and continue up and left into the line. Belay out on the left wall when the crack bends sharpest to the left.

  2. 45m (7) Climb the left wall to the top.

FA: Chris O'Brien, Chris Baxter (alt), 1975

7Trad 79m
30 * The Last Crusade

Steep cracky goodness. Hand to finger. Way over left on a separate wall.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert, 2011

24Trad 12m
31 * One Small Step for a Space Cadet

Down on the lower level again, this is the orange wall you see walking towards this area. Follow orange scoops up wall. Tricky start leads to sneaky moves left at 3rd bolt to gain next leadge/scoops. follow these to bust out on the thin face to finish.

FFA: Adam Demmert, James Scott-Bohanna, 1912

25Sport 18m, 6
32 Malcolm's Crack

Bring your arms and your technique. 40 degrees overhanging and sick.

Trad Project
33 Closed Project - James Scott Bohannan

Closed Project Please Stay off.

Sport
34 * A Fortunate Life

Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish.

FFA: James Scott Bohanna, Adam Demmert, 2012

24Mixed 10m, 4
35 Malcolm Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 ** Rosetta Ridge Trad 150m 1.9. Jananginj Jawi
7 The Go-Between Trad 79m 1.11. The Lost World
8 Shivers Slab Trad 70m 1.9. Jananginj Jawi
Rock Climb Trad 60m 1.10. Gondwanaland
9 Return Of The Native Trad 50m 1.8. Weirs Creek
10 Nose Hairs Trad 100m 1.2. Eureka Wall
Ants On Heat Trad 19m 1.9. Jananginj Jawi
Carousel Trad 45m 1.9. Jananginj Jawi
11 ** Book of leaves Trad 40m 1.1. Hidden Buttress
12 Hunter Gatherer Trad 50m 1.3. Eureka Towers
Roaming Hands Trad 35m 1.7. Worthless Wall
13 Joy Elizabeth Trad 20m 1.9. Jananginj Jawi
14 Plat Du Jour Sport 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Centre Of The Magic Cleft Trad 40m 1.9. Jananginj Jawi
Dandelion Wine Trad 33m 1.9. Jananginj Jawi
The Mind Tinker Trad 130m 1.11. The Lost World
15 Sleeper Service Sport 60m 1.8. Weirs Creek
The Drifting Trad 25m 1.10. Gondwanaland
16 Jimmy John's Direct Trad 70m 1.2. Eureka Wall
Brighten the Corners Sport 10m, 7 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Chinese Bombs Sport 10m, 4 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
* Sleep No More Sport 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
The Alkali Tide Trad 50m 1.5. Alkali Tide Wall
Contact Trad 12m 1.8. Weirs Creek
Grey Area Trad 12m 1.8. Weirs Creek
Mailorder Bribe Sport 15m, 6 1.8. Weirs Creek
* Grit Life Trad 20m 1.10. Gondwanaland
17 Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle Trad 50m 1.2. Eureka Wall
Bonobo Mixed 20m, 1 1.8. Weirs Creek
Matter Sport 10m, 5 1.8. Weirs Creek
** Widow Of Opportunity Sport 25m, 10 1.8. Weirs Creek
* Standing Ovation Trad 30m 1.9. Jananginj Jawi
The Dragon’s Lair Trad 90m 1.10. Gondwanaland
18 ** Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches) Trad 55m 1.2. Eureka Wall
* Stray Sheep Sport 30m, 13 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Villiers Terrace Sport 15m 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Pineapple Trad 17m 1.10. Gondwanaland
* Up The Road Trad 20m 1.10. Gondwanaland
** Wild Iris Trad 15m 1.10. Gondwanaland
*** Roraima Trad 20m 1.11. The Lost World
Round the Twist Trad 20m 1.11. The Lost World
19 ** Disparate Housewives Sport 20m, 7 1.8. Weirs Creek
** The Young And The Wrestlers Sport 25m, 10 1.8. Weirs Creek
* 3 minute rule Sport 15m, 7 1.8.1. West Side
Gibber Trad 45m 1.10. Gondwanaland
Green Room Trad 35m 1.10. Gondwanaland
** Picking Plums Trad 17m 1.10. Gondwanaland
* Roraima Rob's Variant Trad 1.11. The Lost World
** Toucan Trad 60m 1.11. The Lost World
20 Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns Trad 1.2. Eureka Wall
Maxwell's Demon Trad 20m 1.2. Eureka Wall
Pythagoras' Theorem P1 Trad 10m 1.2. Eureka Wall
Jardwadjaliland Trad 35m 1.3. Eureka Towers
New Normal Sport 15m, 10 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Dumber Bay Sport 8m, 3 1.8. Weirs Creek
* Footless Emu Trad 30m 1.9. Jananginj Jawi
Slippery When Wet Trad 45m 1.9. Jananginj Jawi
Baddie Traddie Trad 25m 1.10. Gondwanaland
* Wild Iris RHV Trad 15m 1.10. Gondwanaland
21 * Liberal Party Sport 14m, 8 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
** Hysteria Lane Sport 25m, 10 1.8. Weirs Creek
Lapsed Pacifist Sport 15m, 7 1.8.1. West Side
* Revolver Sport 20m, 8 1.8.1. West Side
* Right Caliber Sport 18m, 7 1.8.1. West Side
* Chasing the Sun Trad 20m 1.10. Gondwanaland
** Casiquiare Trad 25m 1.11. The Lost World
* Humboldt Trad 20m 1.11. The Lost World
22 * Archimedes Principle P1 Trad 20m 1.2. Eureka Wall
*** Return to Gariwerd Trad 22m 1.3. Eureka Towers
Cuttting The Grass Sport 26m, 11 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
* Upper Cut Sport 20m, 12 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
** Me and My Gun Sport 20m, 8 1.8.1. West Side
*** Pump Action Sport 20m, 9 1.8.1. West Side
* Reload.......Now! Sport 18m, 8 1.8.1. West Side
Not Just a Pretty Face Trad 35m 1.10. Gondwanaland
* Voss Trad 50m 1.10. Gondwanaland
* Amazonia Trad 25m 1.11. The Lost World
** Cosmos Trad 20m 1.11. The Lost World
* Indiana Jones Trad 80m 1.11. The Lost World
* Toucan Direct Trad 20m 1.11. The Lost World
23 Darwin's Theory pitch 3 Trad 10m 1.2. Eureka Wall
** Diminishing Returns (Top Half) Trad 30m 1.2. Eureka Wall
Deadly Rhythm Sport 15m, 10 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
* Gerbil's Route Sport 20m, 12 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
* Sea Within A Sea Sport 30m, 11 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Trouble Cut Sport 14m, 7 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
* Two Birdies Sport 20m, 10 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
** Sailing Away Mixed 45m, 3 1.6. The Red Sail
** Barefoot and Poignant Sport 20m, 10 1.8. Weirs Creek
* Climber Wants a Wife Sport 14m, 6 1.8. Weirs Creek
** Let it Burn! Sport 25m, 9 1.8. Weirs Creek
Smoky and the Banditos LHV Sport 20m, 9 1.8. Weirs Creek
** Terra Incognita Trad 50m 1.10. Gondwanaland
*** Eau Rouge Mixed 32m, 3 1.11. The Lost World
* Malcolm's New Route Trad 40m 1.11. The Lost World
24 * Foucault's Pendulum Trad 45m 1.2. Eureka Wall
** Newton's Law Trad 30m 1.2. Eureka Wall
* Cut Throat Sport 12m, 7 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
* Fratin Brothers Sport 15m, 9 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
** Fairies and Blutterfies Sport 20m, 9 1.8. Weirs Creek
** Face the Dissection Trad 35m 1.10. Gondwanaland
* A Fortunate Life Mixed 10m, 4 1.11. The Lost World
** Little Boy Lost Trad 55m 1.11. The Lost World
* The Last Crusade Trad 12m 1.11. The Lost World
25 ** Schrodinger's Cat Mixed 45m, 4 1.2. Eureka Wall
*** Vege Maths Mixed 30m, 8 1.2. Eureka Wall
* Tchingal the Emu Trad 50m 1.3. Eureka Towers
** The CCC (Clean Cut Clan) Sport 25m, 13 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
* The Man Who Sold The World Sport 26m 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
* Smoky and the Banditos Sport 20m 1.8. Weirs Creek
* Faceless Trad 20m 1.10. Gondwanaland
* Iguanadon Sport 15m, 4 1.11. The Lost World
* Jurassic Adventure Sport 15m, 4 1.11. The Lost World
* One Small Step for a Space Cadet Sport 18m, 6 1.11. The Lost World
*** Orinoco Fill Trad 30m 1.11. The Lost World
*** Orinoco Flow Mixed 30m, 1 1.11. The Lost World
* Pterodactyl Sport 15m, 3 1.11. The Lost World
** The Land That Time Forgot Pitch 2 Mixed 20m, 2 1.11. The Lost World
* The Valley of Fear Sport 12m, 5 1.11. The Lost World
26 *** Archimedes' Principle Mixed 60m, 2 1.2. Eureka Wall
* Ockham's Razor Mixed 40m, 5 1.2. Eureka Wall
*** Pythagoras' Theorem Mixed 50m, 3 1.2. Eureka Wall
** Bristol Fashion Mixed 45m, 1 1.6. The Red Sail
* Flail Furiously for Footholds Sport 25m, 5 1.8. Weirs Creek
** Face Off Trad 23m 1.10. Gondwanaland
** A Space Odyssey Pitch 1 Sport 30m, 8 1.11. The Lost World
** Eye's Wide Shut Sport 25m, 8 1.11. The Lost World
** The Land That Time Forgot Mixed 20m, 4 1.11. The Lost World
27 Diminishing Returns Sport 30m 1.2. Eureka Wall
** String Theory Mixed 80m, 8 1.2. Eureka Wall
** Highly Evolved Sport 20m, 11 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
** A Space Odyssey PItch 2 Left Side Sport 15m, 3 1.11. The Lost World
* The Obelisk Sport 20m, 4 1.11. The Lost World
28 Cats & Dogs Mixed 10 1.2. Eureka Wall
** Shallow Water Sport 25m, 10 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
*** Red LIne Mixed 30m, 3 1.11. The Lost World
29 *** Pavlov's Dog Sport 14 1.2. Eureka Wall
30 *** General Relativity Trad 48m 1.2. Eureka Wall
? Open project Sport 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Project - CLOSED (Phil Neville) Sport 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Project - Observations Of The Scene Sport Project 25m 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Project - Shallower Water Sport Project 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Project - Son Of Clean Cut Sport Project 1.4. Clean Cut Walls
Closed Project Sport 1.8. Weirs Creek
Open Project Sport 15m 1.8. Weirs Creek
* Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish Sport Project 1.8. Weirs Creek
Special Circumstances (Open Project) Unknown 15m 1.8. Weirs Creek
CLOSED Project A Sport Project 12 1.8.1. West Side
? Closed Project - James Scott Bohannan Sport 1.11. The Lost World
Malcolm Trad 1.11. The Lost World
Malcolm's Crack Trad Project 1.11. The Lost World
My Friend the Murderer Project - Closed Sport Project 1.11. The Lost World