Crag Guide for Eureka Area

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty.

Start: Start 4m L of Newton's Law.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992

Newton's Law

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one!

Start: Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, 1991

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches)

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18.

Start: Start as for Newton's Law.

1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break.

2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

Foucault's Pendulum

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's 'Theory' to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimede's Principle, finishing as for that route.

FA: Ross Taylor, Adam Demmert, 2009

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

Archimedes' Principle

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. Often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

2. 30m (26) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this.

FA: Keith Lockwood (p1), Steve Monks (p2&3), 1991

Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge.

Start: Start as for AP

Pythagoras's Theorem

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood (1), Steve Monks (2&3), 1991

Ockham's Razor

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2009

Start just left of SC.

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

FA: clean cut phil,

Schrodinger's Cat

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look.

Start: Start 15m R of PT.

FA: Steve Monks, Martin Scheel, 1991

Vege Maths

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

FA: Toby Pola & Kent Paterson,

Worth doing for the second pitch experience.

Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.

1. 30m (16) Boulder the roof then up to ledge. Slither up through overhang. Up 1 metre right of faded guano streak. Up and past left end of grassy ledge (slings). Belay on arete.

2. 20m (1) Up.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

Return to Gariwerd

Lovely climbing with excellent protection. Much easier than it looks.

1. 22m (22) Up thin broken crack right of "Hunter Gatherer", step left then straight up the grey streak.

2. 25m (21) Sounds quite good. Hand traverse straight left from the belay for 13 metres under the roof. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds are more spaced. Finally pull the roof at a weakness and continue up easy, low angle rock to a natural anchor. Two rappels off slung features back to the ground. "5.10+".

FA: Louise Shepherd, Simon Mentz (P2 by Joshua Janesish), 2003

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

FA: Kieth Lockwood, Enga Lokey, 1991

Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, Enga Lokey, 1991

Tchingal the Emu

Start: Start down left of "Jardwadjali Land".

1. 15m (17) Up the corner to the ledges just left of "Jardwadjali Land".

2. 35m (25) Up to the flake that crosses the roof, swing out along this then up the smooth headwall to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Damien Carol, 1991

Bristol Fashion

The left arete of the buttress.

1. 20m (22) Up "Sailing Away" for 15 metres then traverse left past a BR to a HBB on left arete.

2. 25m (26) Up the blunt arete above the belay and up to a rest at a huge flake. Up to the roof (crux) and climb rightward across this to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Damien Carol, 1991

Sailing Away

The spectacular right arete.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

Not worth the walk.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1980

Pleasant face near the top of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

Smoky and the Banditos

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Catherine de Vaus, 2012

Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

FA: Adam Demmert, 2012

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2010

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

Start: Start at the left side of the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman (alt), 2010

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top.

The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly.

Start: Scramble out the ramp left od"Disparate Housewives" to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, 2012

Disparate Housewives

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2010

The Young And The Wrestlers

More steep pocket-pulling leads to a finish crack.

Start: Just right of "Disparate Housewives"

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2011

Hysteria Lane

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Again grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

Widow Of Opportunity

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch.

Start: Start from ledge just above cave right of "Hysteria Lane".

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

Barefoot and Poignant

Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades.

Start: Start in same place as "Widow Of Opportunity".

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2011

Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...

Fairies and Blutterfies

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. A little crumbly rock higher doesn't really detract.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, 2013

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start: Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. From the tree-fern gully continue steeply up the hillside below the cliffs. Continue past the large, rust-coloured slabby corner to the next gully and up a little to below the orange streaks. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

Up the wall to diagonal ramp under the impressive headwall. Right along ramp then up chimney.

Start: About 50 metres left of "Carousel" the track swings up under an east-facing wall. Scramble up to the left end.

Start: Chimney line, second line on left from where the cliff is reached.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Cunningham (alt), 1978

Start: First line on the left as the cliff is reached.

Completely out of bounds behind the cage. Finger crack. Second line right of where the cliff is reached.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1978

Grey slab 100 metres right of "Slippery When Wet"

Slab then chockstones just right of "Shiver's Slab".

Standing Ovation

Flake crack on left edge of buttress right of 'Dandelion Wine'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Phillip Armstrong, Iain Sedgman, 1977

Footless Emu

The best line on the cliff and far enough from the art site that climbing it shouldn't be a problem. Proobaly a good idea to leave the chalkbag behind though.

This was done just before cams were introduced and protecting the horizontal cracks on the traverse was difficult. A direct finish is begging.

On the right side of the outcrops is an orange corner leading to a roof.

FA: Rod Young, Peter Cunningham, 1978

Start by scrambling around to the top of the main cliff and aligning with the approach track. If you turn around towards the hillside, there should be a small buttress with a crack before you. The crack is it.

Rosetta Ridge

Classic bumbly route in great position. The approach just adds to the adventure.

It takes the massive whaleback ridge that is almost equidistant between "Gondwanaland" and "Red Sail" and can be approached from either.

FA: Keith Egerton, Gordon Talbett, 1978

Chasing the Sun

Orange slab split by thin seam and a great overhung finish. Located on separate buttress 100m left of the second short rock wall you reach on the walk up to the main cliff of 'Gondwanaland'. Bouldery start (RB) then right leading weakness to seam. Up this for 10m then skirt under orange roof and then thug back left across overhang to crux finish. Lower off last bolt or trad belay on ledge and epic walk-down descent. Four bolts plus natural gear to finger crack size. Really needs a lower-off anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Monique Forestier, Simon Carter, 2003

Grit Life

bold face climb on jugs

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2003

Up The Road

Ninety degree sharp arete with clean wall on right side about 40m right of 'Terra Incognita'. A short corner crack is climbed to a little ledge on the left, then launch up the pocketed arete with some fiddly pro. The final ten metres is jug city. 'Small' to medium gear and slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Michael Boniwell, 2003

Start at the right leading ramp left of the prow. Up ramp easily then left. Up vertical wall on pockets, then easier climbing to crack system up headwall, finishing up overhanging crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1990

Voss

Starts as for 'Gibber'. (1) 30m Up ramp then obvious flake crack. Continue up wall to stance. (2) 20m Up main groove to finish directly up headwall.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood (alts), Norm Booth, 1991

Terra Incognita

Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1990

Face the Dissection

Possibly Nick's finest new route? A long intricate and techincal wall with an exposed finish.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Montieth, 2002

Wild Iris

Magic pocket pulling sport route on immaculate rock. Would be amazing if longer. Starts 50m left of 'Gibber'. White pockets through bulge leads to spaced heucos on face. At third BR head right to BR then up juggy corner to rap chain. Keep an eye out for the bolts on the upper wall, they can be easy to miss!

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

Wild Iris RHV / Wild Iris Right Hand Variant

At second BR traverse directly right on small pockets and little else. When your feet refuse to stay on, clip a BR then crank like crazy to gain monster pockets. Finish as for original line past last BR.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2002

Leftwards leading easy pocketed corner just left 'Wild Iris'. At top of corner place wires in thin crack then swing out right desperatly onto arete and easily up this to natural; belay stance. Another pitch above on super jugs leads to top and walk off. Needs a lower-off.

FA: Steve Holloway,

Face Off

The direct start to 'Faceless' past several RBs. Very long intricate face climbing. Be wary of long runout in the middle. One of Neil's longest ever sieges.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

Faceless

thin face

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

Picking Plums

Starts 30m left of 'Wild Iris'. In the middle of the wall is several cracklines; this climbs the furthest right one, approx in the middle of the wall. Absorbing rounded holds and the steep angle keep you guessing right until the end. The gear is great however and a chain on top makes descent easy.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

Line 2m left of 'Picking Plums'. Similar sustained climbing up rounded cracks, but the rock is a little less perfect. Bring plenty of big cams. Traverse off right to chain or belay from natural bollards at top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

This route is at ground level somewhere left of previous route. It has a left trending traverse under a roof, and splitter hand crack / left facing flake emerging from the left side of this roof. The start involves pulling on grass tufts!

FA: Neil Montetih, 2004

Easy angled black hand crack corner 50m left of 'Gibber'. Second pitch climbs juggy face above. Not recommended.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

This area is around 3-400m uphill of the existing routes, approach is by a short, loose and dirty corner. Up to high point in narrow gully to see the obvious thin ridgeline which looks somewhat like a dragon's back. This route starts on the left wall, at a point where there is an obvious horizontal break.

1. 10m (8) Traverse along this (right) for 10m to belay below orange corner.

2. 25m (17) Up delicately with good gear and good holds just watch the rock quality. Take your time and you will be fine.

3. 30m (17) Continue up and left to pass massive cave on its right, both gear and holds thin out in the middle of this pitch. Belay about level with the top of the cave.

4. 25m (12) Easily up to top. Scramble off just before the top of the pinnacle, to the south side, heading east through narrow gully. Retrace your path to the beginning.

FA: Joe Goding, Stephen Holloway, 2003

Start 3-4m right of arete about 20m uphill from 'Pineapple'. Up for 4m, right a little, then pretty much straight up. Wall is deceptively steep with good holds and gear. Scramble up right (looking out) to rap from sling around good bollard.

FA: Nina Cullen & Steve Holloway, 2003

A major cliff and pants splitting line. Start at top of ramp right of 'Gibber' and 'Face the Dissection'. Weave your way up and right, till tricky moves left allow you to gain the base of the crack. Blast up the widening crack past some slightly dodgy rock in places, but loads of good gear, till easier ground and finally a chain anchor is reached. Take a full rack including lots of big gear. Steve Holloway had his eye on this in '02 and added the rap chain, but never got his act together to actually climb it.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2007

Orinoco Flow

Mind-blowing roof and arete.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

Little Boy Lost

The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.

1. 15m (23) Sustained under-clinging leads to semi-hanging belay.

2. 25m (24) From belay, go right, up, and back left, weaving around arete to belay below final roof.

3. 15m (17) Step left, up, traverse right and up.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991

Eye's Wide Shut

Diabolical slab start followed by very continuous steep red wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2012

A Space Odyssey Pitch 1

The gigantic roof just left of 'Little Boy Lost'.Looks like the prow of a battleship, as seen from the waterline.First pitch goes up to and second pitch underclings the upside-down roof arête. Pitches described separately. Black rounded arête immediately right of the chimney/gulch. You have to bridge up the gully to start, followed by awkward and off balance arete climbing.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

A Space Odyssey PItch 2 Left Side

Super exposed upside-down roof-arête.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

The Obelisk

Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

Humboldt

Start up pockets as for 'Cosmos', then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 2003

Cosmos

Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof. Trad with some bolts.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack.

FFA: Jack Jane, 2011

Toucan

Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.

1. 30m (19) Beautiful crack which bisects the otherwise smooth wall.When the angle eases, head up diagonally right to belay near arete.

2. 30m (19) Step left to little orange corner.Verge right up wall and pull over roof. Traverse left along lip of the roof to the brink (fantastic exposure), then up headwall to top, finishing just left of little triangular summit overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tim Lockwood (alt), 2003

Toucan Direct

Direct version of the 2nd pitch. Straight up instead of right

FFA: Malcolm Matheso, Anthony Patterson, 2012

Roraima

Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 2003

Roraima Rob's Variant

Rightward horizontal break

FFA: Rob Oliver, Malcolm MAtheson, 2011

Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, 2003

Amazonia

Wall right of Eau Rouge with a traverse in from the right to avoid the blank wall. Trad with some bolts

FFA: Malcolm Matheso, Rob Oliver, 2011

Eau Rouge

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

Red LIne

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

Pterodactyl

One piece of trad to start then 3 bolts. Bouldery on awesome rock.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

Iguanadon

Same start as Pterodactyl (trad) then head left and up past 4 bolts to same anchor.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

The Land That Time Forgot

Follows stellar arete which starts down and left of redline. 2 bolts and trad on both pitches.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

The Land That Time Forgot Pitch 2

2 bolts and trad.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

Jurassic Adventure

Desperate laybacking. 4 bolt sport route with lower off in gully around left of Redline.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

The Valley of Fear

The next route in the gully. Difficult moves up and right to gain corner. Continue technically up corner to small overlap where you move on to arete. Head up this and left to anchors. 2 Fixed hangers and 3 rings.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2012

CLOSED PROJECT - Adam Demmert - Next route left up the Gully. Rightward diagonal seam.

It is thought that this route takes the big easy line up the lower tier and crosses the upper terrace to the yellow corner, probably neasr "Humboldt". Looks worthless.

In the middle of the cliff right of "The Go-Between" an easy-angled grey corner is the only break in the initial overhangs. Above is an impressive yellow corner.

1. 45m (14) A tricky start then doddle up just right of the corner to a tree belay.

2. 25m (-) Up easily to terrace below the yellow corner.

3. 45m (14) Fight up the vines into the chimney 9just left of "Humboldt" and bridge up this to a ledge.

4. 15m (-) Easily up jugs on left arete.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien (alt), 1975

Indiana Jones

Quite a bit of excitement. Takes the big orange wall right of " The Go-Between". Start a few metres right of that climb.

1. 40m (22) Around overhang and up wall following a vague orange streak between three overhangs. Step right to belay in an eyrie.

2. 40m (22) Tend left up wall to smooth red streak then straight up wall. Step left to go through break in overhang and up final wall.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.

1. 34m (7) Start on massive jugs and continue up and left into the line. Belay out on the left wall when the crack bends sharpest to the left.

2. 45m (7) Climb the left wall to the top.

FA: Chris O'Brien, Chris Baxter (alt), 1975

The Last Crusade

Steep cracky goodness. Hand to finger. Way over left on a separate wall.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert, 2011

One Small Step for a Space Cadet

Down on the lower level again, this is the orange wall you see walking towards this area. Follow orange scoops up wall. Tricky start leads to sneaky moves left at 3rd bolt to gain next leadge/scoops. follow these to bust out on the thin face to finish.

FFA: Adam Demmert, James Scott-Bohanna, 1912

Bring your arms and your technique. 40 degrees overhanging and sick.

Closed Project Please Stay off.

A Fortunate Life

Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish.

FFA: James Scott Bohanna, Adam Demmert, 2012

More or less climbs the middle of the black wall right of the pinnacle.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

The good section is too short.

Start: Start about 8 metres right of "Calling Hop Harrigan" on the right arete of the face at a little yellow groove.

FA: Chris Baxter, Ian Ravenscroft, 1988

Climb the flake crack, which rises up to the left, to a rounded, mossy exit.

Start: Start 25 metres right of "Varicose Veins" below a tiny recessed wall with a roof above and a large conifer in front.

FA: Simon Mentz, Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

A major line at the left end of the cliff. The start is undercut by a cave.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1988

Storm In A D-Cup

The attractive crack 15 metres right of "Suspended Animation".

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Simon Mentz, Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

The Wreckery

Sustained jamming up a beautiful diagonal crack on smooth rock.

FA: Chris Baxter, Ian Ravenscroft, 1988

The line right of "The Wreckery" at the right-hand end of the face.

FA: Simon Mentz, Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

Blunt arete with 2 fixed hangers left of "The Bounty Hunter" ? which is where?

FA: Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon, 2002

Geoffs Arete A

FA: Geoff Butcher,

Black slab on right side of dark gully around left of "Hang Me High"

FA: Neil Monteith, Geoff Butcher, Marten Blumen, 2001

Dju Dju

Nice thin grey face situated on block near the top of "Jungle Gym".

FA: Marcel Geelan, Geoff Butcher, Neil Monteith, 2002

The Wreckery Direct

Instead of traversing left and joining up with 'Storm' In A D-Cup at 15m keep climbing the face directly above, eventually heading slightly right up short diagonal flake to top. Makes the route a lot more sustained.

Straightens out "Varicose Vines"

FA: Graeme Smith, Glenn Donohue, Peter Cunningham, 1994

Pussy Whipped Wuss

Start in the left-hand corner at the base of the main corner. Move right at overhang into main corner and continue to stance. Now crack in left wall past big block.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith, 1993

Worthless. Start off big block against cliff.

FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw, 1993

Pull into corner then climb the centre of the juggy right wall.

Start: Left again is another big undercut corner.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Rhyl Shaw, 1993

The Bounty Hunter

Apparently cool gritstone climbing. Haven't been able to find a description so location is guesswork.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 2001

Boulder start up large buttress leaning in front of cliff. Step across void onto the orange wall. Move diagonally left towards arete and up.

Start: Start on the first buttress up and about 50 metres right of "Circumcision Ritual"

FA: Peter Cunningham, Graeme Smith, Glenn Donohue, 1994

Remote. Might even be in The Labryinth.

Start: Start about 30-40 metres right of "Juggernaut", slightly up a broad gully and a few metres right of a tight, short chimney.

FA: Glenn Donohue, Graeme Smith, Peter Cunningham, 1994