Routes as trad in Eureka Area

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 101 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Hidden Buttress
11 Book of leaves
1 11 25m
2 9 15m

A fantastic outing up a good line with good gear and pretty good quality rock (for a new route!). Starts on the lower side of the buttress, on the RHS at a steep crack. Up this and into the corner where you will be rewarded with lots of fun, interesting, sustained bridging for the grade with good gear. Pitch at the ledge (about 25m) or continue on to the top.

Located at GPS points S37 11.365 E142 16.268 @ 510m above sea level.

FA: Josef Goding & Ross Richards (Alts), 4 Apr 2014

Trad 40m, 2
Eureka Wall
16 PG Jimmy John's Direct

Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths.

FFA: Phil Gruber & Jimmy Gruber, 21 Sep 2014

Trad 70m
11 Going In Blind

1: starting 15 metres left of Nose Hairs climb direct up slab/ramp to left side of roof at half height (40m)

2: Traverse out left and up over bulge easily and up and right joining into Nose Hairs for summit.

FA: Jimmy & Louis Godsell, 19 Apr 2015

Trad 90m, 2
10 Nose Hairs

Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's.

FA: Jimmy, lily & phil Gruber

Trad 100m
17 Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag. The next crack left of Newton's Law, 3 metres left of Maxwell's Demon, move left at ledge and continue straight up.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992

Trad 50m
20 Maxwell's Demon

A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992

Trad 20m
24 Newton's Law

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks, 1991

Trad 30m
23 Diminishing Returns (Top Half)

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

FA: Kent Paterson, Apr 2012

Mixed 30m, 5
20 Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns

Link up - Climb Darwins Theory to the top of the first pitch (obvious big break) the head up Diminishing returns for the last couple of bolts to anchor

Trad 20m
18 Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches)

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18.

Start: Start as for Newton's Law.

  1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break.

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Trad 55m, 2
23 Darwin's Theory pitch 3

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Trad 10m
24 Foucault's Pendulum

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's Theory to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimedes' Principle, finishing as for that route.

FA: Ross Taylor & Adam Demmert, 5 Nov 2009

Trad 45m
22 Archimedes Principle P1
Trad 20m
26 Archimedes' Principle
1 22
2 25
3 26

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. First 2 pitches are often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

  1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

  2. 30m (25) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

  3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this pitch.

FA: Keith Lockwood (p1), Steve Monks (p2 & 3), 1991

Mixed 60m, 3, 2
27 String Theory
1 22
2 27

Start: Start as for AP

  1. 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

  2. 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014

FFA: adam demmert, jono schmidt & Malcolm Matherson, 17 Nov 2014

Mixed 80m, 2, 8
20 Pythagoras' Theorem P1
Trad 10m
26 Pythagoras' Theorem

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

  1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

  2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood (1) & Steve Monks (2&3), 1991

Mixed 50m, 2, 3
26 Ockham's Razor

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

FFA: adam demmert, 22 Nov 2009

Mixed 40m, 5
30 General Relativity

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

FA: 2014

Trad 48m
28 Cats & Dogs

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

FA: clean cut phil

Mixed 10
25 Schrodinger's Cat

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above.

FA: Steve Monks & Martin Scheel, 1991

Mixed 45m, 4
25 Vege Maths

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

FA: Toby Pola & Kent Paterson

Mixed 30m, 8
Eureka Towers
20 Journey To Gary's World

5 metres R of 'Return to Gariwerd'. Start off small rock, tricky start on thin seams and opposing side pulls, easing upwards to great rounded holds. Belay off chicken heads.

FA: James Wynne, 10 Jun 2016

Trad 15m
22 Return to Gariwerd

Lovely climbing with excellent protection.

Begin on the right edge of the blank orange shield. Up thin broken crack stepping left to flake then straight up the grey streak. The original route stopped here and descent was by scrambling off right with a possible rappel. However, a fantastic new finish was added in 2003 by Josh Janes:

Instead of stopping/belaying, hand traverse straight left under the roof for 15 meters. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds become more spaced. Eventually gain a good stance at the end of the roof and belay from a bolted anchor (added in 2017). Rap from here with a single 70m rope (a single 60m rope might reach - watch your ends).

FA: Louise Shepherd & Simon Mentz

Trad 35m
12 Hunter Gatherer

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

FA: Kieth Lockwood & Enga Lokey, 1991

Trad 50m
20 R Jardwadjaliland

Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood & Enga Lokey, 1991

Trad 35m
25 Tchingal the Emu

Start: Start down left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  1. 15m (17) Up the corner to the ledges just left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  2. 35m (25) Up to the flake that crosses the roof, swing out along this then up the smooth headwall to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Damien Carol, 1991

Trad 50m, 2
Clean Cut Walls
22 Think Twice

Climbs much better than it looks, a great overlooked route for those who's brain starts to fade after clipping too many bolts. Starts a few m right of Plat Du Jour at bouldery overhang. Straight up this and wall (small wires) to arete and hollow flake. Make a move R, and up short corner to amazing diagonal line (wires / small-med cams). Along this to finish at the anchor of Phil's project.

FA: Goshen Watts & Jimmy, 16 May 2015

Trad 20m
16 Thank God for the French

Start at first bolt of closed project, then follow undercling traverse to arête then up and left in crack to lower off of Plat Du Jour

FA: Jimmy & Andreas Aachen, 16 Mar 2015

Mixed 20m, 1
Alkali Tide Wall
16 The Alkali Tide

Worth doing for the second pitch experience (not!).

Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.

  1. 30m (16) Boulder the roof then up to ledge. Slither up through overhang. Up 1 metre right of faded guano streak. Up and past left end of grassy ledge (slings). Belay on arete.

  2. 20m (1) Up.

FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Day, 1996

Trad 50m, 2
The Red Sail
26 Bristol Fashion

The left arete of the buttress.

  1. 20m (22) Up "Sailing Away" for 15 metres then traverse left past a BR to a HBB on left arete.

  2. 25m (26) Up the blunt arete above the belay and up to a rest at a huge flake. Up to the roof (crux) and climb rightward across this to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Damien Carol, 1991

Mixed 45m, 2, 1
23 Sailing Away

The spectacular right arete.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Mixed 45m, 3
Worthless Wall
12 Roaming Hands

Only worthwhile crack and is on left side of a steep, clean wall. Scramble up to a terrace to start. Climb crack and abseil from tree.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1980

Trad 35m
Weirs Creek
Special Circumstances (Open Project)

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

Trad 15m
16 Grey Area

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams. Face starting 3 metres left of the corner of Contact to anchor of Special Circumstances at right end of roof system.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 13 Aug 2011

Trad 12m
16 Contact

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

The short corner to large sloping ledge and up slightly left to anchor for Grey Area.

FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, May 2010

Trad 12m
9 Return Of The Native

Start a little left of where the track reaches the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, May 2010

Trad 50m
17 Bonobo

The grassy corner at the right end of the wall. If you value ankles over a purist ethic perhaps clip the first bolt on LIB. DBB at top.

FA: M. Johnston

Mixed 20m, 1
26 Flail Furiously for Footholds

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

FA: M. Johnston & S. Holloway

Mixed 25m, 5
9 Cold Feet

Follow prominent sharp arete that is 10m to the west of Mailorder Bribe. Some loose blocks and fragile rock, but otherwise a nice line. Can be done in one long pitch or split into two pitches.

FA: caillan sainsbury & Matt White, 30 May 2015

Trad 35m
Yanganaginj Njawi
10 Ants On Heat

Up the wall to diagonal ramp under the impressive headwall. Right along ramp then up chimney.

Start: About 50 metres left of "Carousel" the track swings up under an east-facing wall. Scramble up to the left end.

Trad 19m
10 Carousel

Start: Chimney line, second line on left from where the cliff is reached.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Peter Cunningham (alt), 1978

Trad 45m
14 Centre Of The Magic Cleft

Start: First line on the left as the cliff is reached.

Trad 40m
20 Slippery When Wet

Completely out of bounds behind the cage. Finger crack. Second line right of where the cliff is reached.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1978

Trad 45m
8 Shivers Slab

Grey slab 100 metres right of "Slippery When Wet"

Trad 70m
14 Dandelion Wine

Slab then chockstones just right of "Shiver's Slab".

Trad 33m
17 Standing Ovation

Flake crack on left edge of buttress right of 'Dandelion Wine'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Phillip Armstrong & Iain Sedgman, 1977

Trad 30m
20 Footless Emu

The best line on the cliff and far enough from the art site that climbing it shouldn't be a problem. Proobaly a good idea to leave the chalkbag behind though.

This was done just before cams were introduced and protecting the horizontal cracks on the traverse was difficult. A direct finish is begging.

On the right side of the outcrops is an orange corner leading to a roof.

FA: Rod Young & Peter Cunningham, 1978

Trad 30m
13 Joy Elizabeth

Start by scrambling around to the top of the main cliff and aligning with the approach track. If you turn around towards the hillside, there should be a small buttress with a crack before you. The crack is it.

Trad 20m
3 Rosetta Ridge

Classic bumbly route in great position. The approach just adds to the adventure.

It takes the massive whaleback ridge that is almost equidistant between "Gondwanaland" and "Red Sail" and can be approached from either.

FA: Keith Egerton & Gordon Talbett, 1978

Trad 150m
21 Chasing the Sun

Orange slab split by thin seam and a great overhung finish. Located on separate buttress 100m left of the second short rock wall you reach on the walk up to the main cliff of 'Gondwanaland'. Bouldery start (RB) then right leading weakness to seam. Up this for 10m then skirt under orange roof and then thug back left across overhang to crux finish. Lower off last bolt or trad belay on ledge and epic walk-down descent. Four bolts plus natural gear to finger crack size. Really needs a lower-off anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Monique Forestier & Simon Carter, 2003

Trad 20m
16 R Grit Life

bold face climb on jugs

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2003

Trad 20m
18 Up The Road

Ninety degree sharp arete with clean wall on right side about 40m right of 'Terra Incognita'. A short corner crack is climbed to a little ledge on the left, then launch up the pocketed arete with some fiddly pro. The final ten metres is jug city. 'Small' to medium gear and slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Michael Boniwell, 2003

Trad 20m
19 Gibber

Start at the right leading ramp left of the prow. Up ramp easily then left. Up vertical wall on pockets, then easier climbing to crack system up headwall, finishing up overhanging crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1990

Trad 45m
22 Voss

Starts as for 'Gibber'. (1) 30m Up ramp then obvious flake crack. Continue up wall to stance. (2) 20m Up main groove to finish directly up headwall.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood (alts) & Norm Booth, 1991

Trad 50m
23 Terra Incognita

Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1990

Trad 50m
22 Not Just a Pretty Face

A major cliff and pants splitting line. Start at top of ramp right of 'Gibber' and 'Face the Dissection'. Weave your way up and right, till tricky moves left allow you to gain the base of the crack. Blast up the widening crack past some slightly dodgy rock in places, but loads of good gear, till easier ground and finally a chain anchor is reached. Take a full rack including lots of big gear. Steve Holloway had his eye on this in '02 and added the rap chain, but never got his act together to actually climb it.

FFA: adam demmert, 2007

FA: Adam Demmert, 2007

Trad 35m
24 Face the Dissection

Possibly Nick's finest new route? A long intricate and techincal wall with an exposed finish.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Montieth, 2002

Trad 35m
18 Wild Iris

Magic pocket pulling sport route on immaculate rock. Would be amazing if longer. Starts 50m left of 'Gibber'. White pockets through bulge leads to spaced heucos on face. At third BR head right to BR then up juggy corner to rap chain. Keep an eye out for the bolts on the upper wall, they can be easy to miss!

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

Trad 15m
20 Wild Iris RHV

At second BR traverse directly right on small pockets and little else. When your feet refuse to stay on, clip a BR then crank like crazy to gain monster pockets. Finish as for original line past last BR.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2002

Trad 15m
19 Green Room

Leftwards leading easy pocketed corner just left 'Wild Iris'. At top of corner place wires in thin crack then swing out right desperatly onto arete and easily up this to natural; belay stance. Another pitch above on super jugs leads to top and walk off. Needs a lower-off.

FA: Steve Holloway

Trad 35m
26 Face Off

The direct start to 'Faceless' past several RBs. Very long intricate face climbing. Be wary of long runout in the middle. One of Neil's longest ever sieges.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

Trad 23m
25 Faceless

thin face

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

Trad 20m
19 Picking Plums

Starts 30m left of 'Wild Iris'. In the middle of the wall is several cracklines; this climbs the furthest right one, approx in the middle of the wall. Absorbing rounded holds and the steep angle keep you guessing right until the end. The gear is abundant but fiddly in shallow, scoopy cracks. Rap anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

Trad 17m
18 Pineapple

Line 2m left of 'Picking Plums'. Similar sustained climbing up rounded cracks, but the rock is a little less perfect. Bring plenty of big cams. Traverse off right to chain or belay from natural bollards at top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

Trad 17m
20 Baddie Traddie

This route is at ground level somewhere left of previous route. It has a left trending traverse under a roof, and splitter hand crack / left facing flake emerging from the left side of this roof. The start involves pulling on grass tufts!

FA: Neil Montetih, 2004

Trad 25m
8 Rock Climb

Easy angled black hand crack corner 50m left of 'Gibber'. Second pitch climbs juggy face above. Not recommended.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

Trad 60m
17 The Dragon’s Lair

This area is around 3-400m uphill of the existing routes, approach is by a short, loose and dirty corner. Up to high point in narrow gully to see the obvious thin ridgeline which looks somewhat like a dragon's back. This route starts on the left wall, at a point where there is an obvious horizontal break.

  1. 10m (8) Traverse along this (right) for 10m to belay below orange corner.

  2. 25m (17) Up delicately with good gear and good holds just watch the rock quality. Take your time and you will be fine.

  3. 30m (17) Continue up and left to pass massive cave on its right, both gear and holds thin out in the middle of this pitch. Belay about level with the top of the cave.

  4. 25m (12) Easily up to top. Scramble off just before the top of the pinnacle, to the south side, heading east through narrow gully. Retrace your path to the beginning.

FA: Joe Goding & Stephen Holloway, 2003

Trad 90m, 4
15 The Drifting

Start 3-4m right of arete about 20m uphill from 'Pineapple'. Up for 4m, right a little, then pretty much straight up. Wall is deceptively steep with good holds and gear. Scramble up right (looking out) to rap from sling around good bollard.

FA: Nina Cullen & Steve Holloway, 2003

Trad 25m
The Lost World
25 Orinoco Flow

Mind-blowing roof and arete.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

Mixed 30m, 1
25 Orinoco Fill

Starts as per OF. Climb steep roof to large horizontal. Instead of climbing thin seam/arete move right onto streaked grey wall.

FA: Phil Gruber, 2014

Trad 30m
17 A Day without Rain

Traverses the headwall to the R of OF. Excellent rock and climbing. Gear is adequate (take cams to size 3, incl micro cams).

  1. 20m, Wander up slab, to belay just past R end of roof.

  2. 20m, Up weakness to gain left leading horizontals which are ascended gradually to gain white streak which leads easily to final traverse L below summit roof. Go all the way, and Rap as for OF.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 7 Aug 2016

Trad 40m, 2
23 Malcolm and Andy's New route

2m right of LBL,

  1. 30m 23. Up flake over bulge past bolt, trending left through next bulges past fixed pin to sloping belay ledge.

  2. 10m 22 Straight up past bolt and continue up on horizontal breaks to absail chain. Rap off on a 70m just

FFA: Malcolm Matherson & Andy Schmutter, Nov 2014

Mixed 70m, 2, 2
24 Little Boy Lost

The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.

  1. 15m (23) Sustained under-clinging leads to semi-hanging belay.

  2. 25m (24) From belay, go right, up, and back left, weaving around arete to belay below final roof.

  3. 15m (17) Step left, up, traverse right and up.

FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991

Trad 55m, 3
21 Humboldt

Start up pockets as for 'Cosmos', then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right).

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 2003

Trad 20m
22 Cosmos

Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof. Trad with some bolts.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

Trad 20m
16 Sorroson

Start as for round the twist. Climb upwards over bulges trending right to left end of roof. Traverse right on horizontals over lip of roof to short crack. Up to overlap and right to arete. Wrap off, bring tat.

FA: Peter Bovino & Soren Netz

Trad 25m
18 Round the Twist

Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack.

FFA: Jack Jane, 2011

Trad 20m
19 Toucan

Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.

  1. 30m (19) Beautiful crack which bisects the otherwise smooth wall.When the angle eases, head up diagonally right to belay near arete.

  2. 30m (19) Step left to little orange corner.Verge right up wall and pull over roof. Traverse left along lip of the roof to the brink (fantastic exposure), then up headwall to top, finishing just left of little triangular summit overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood (alt), 2003

Trad 60m, 2
22 Toucan Direct

Direct version of the 2nd pitch. Straight up instead of right

FFA: Malcolm Matheso & Anthony Patterson, Apr 2012

Trad 20m
18 Roraima

Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 2003

Trad 20m
19 Roraima Rob's Variant

Rightward horizontal break

FFA: Rob Oliver & Malcolm MAtheson, 2011

21 Casiquiare

Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Tim Lockwood & Keith Lockwood, 2003

Trad 25m
22 Amazonia

Wall right of Eau Rouge with a traverse in from the right to avoid the blank wall. Trad with some bolts

FFA: Malcolm Matheso & Rob Oliver, 2011

Trad 25m
23 Eau Rouge

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, Oct 2009

Mixed 32m, 3
28 Red LIne

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

Mixed 30m, 3
23 Lost in Antiquity

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

  1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

  2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off

FFA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 31 Aug 2014

Trad 40m, 2
26 The Land That Time Forgot

Follows stellar arete which starts down and left of redline. 2 bolts and trad on both pitches.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

Mixed 20m, 2, 4
25 The Land That Time Forgot Pitch 2

2 bolts and trad.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2011

Mixed 20m, 2
25 Mesozoic Stoic

Adds a harder, more engaging finish to Pacaraima. Where the original climbs heads back leftward, head up right instead (past 2 more bolt runners). Rap chains where the angle and the climbing ease significantly.

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, Apr 2017

Trad 15m
21 Pacaraima

At the major gully that is encountered a few metres down left of the start of The Land that Time Forgot, head downhill to a steep east-facing wall. About 30-35m downhill is the start of a rightward-leading diagonal line. Climb up a few metres to a bolt runner, then carefully up rightward (trad gear) following the line to a major break that slices diagonally across the wall from low right to high left. Follow the break up leftward for approximately 4 or 5m and easily for a few more metres up the slabby stuff above. Trad belay. Scramble off up left.

FFA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson., Feb 2017

Trad 20m
30 Watermark

An impressive effort – Malcolm, as is his want, made sure each piece of gear (except the fixed piton) was placed on lead. A few metres down left of the start of The Land that Time Forgot, there is a major gully. Follow the right side of this gully uphill, initially past a couple of sports routes (Valley of Fear and Jurassic Adventures) and onward about another 50m to a striking diagonal overhanging crack/seam. Follow the relentlessly overhanging pocketed seam; trad gear with one fixed pin to a double bolt anchor.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 18 Apr 2017

Trad 16m
14 The Mind Tinker

It is thought that this route takes the big easy line up the lower tier and crosses the upper terrace to the yellow corner, probably neasr "Humboldt". Looks worthless.

In the middle of the cliff right of "The Go-Between" an easy-angled grey corner is the only break in the initial overhangs. Above is an impressive yellow corner.

  1. 45m (14) A tricky start then doddle up just right of the corner to a tree belay.

  2. 25m (-) Up easily to terrace below the yellow corner.

  3. 45m (14) Fight up the vines into the chimney 9just left of "Humboldt" and bridge up this to a ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Easily up jugs on left arete.

FA: Chris Baxter & Chris O'Brien (alt), 1975

Trad 130m, 4
19 Raiders of the Lost Ark

Quite a moderate route for such an enormous buttress, with only a few hard moves and plenty of gear. Take plenty of nuts and slings; but leave your micro and large cams behind!

    1. Delightful for the grade. Start about 15m R of Indiana Jones, take a L leading line of your choice, then up Arete to same belay as for IJ.
  1. Crux; wonderfully long and exposed. Head out left, and where IJ goes up, keep going left across top of flake via a committing move. Keep the rising traverse going until the roof angle lessens, and you can gain the headwall above (don't go up through roof too early).

Trad 85m, 2
22 Indiana Jones

Quite a bit of excitement. Takes the big orange wall right of " The Go-Between". Start a few metres right of that climb.

  1. 30m (22) Around overhang and up wall following a vague orange streak between three overhangs. Step right to belay in an eyrie.

  2. 25m (22) Tend left up wall to smooth red streak then straight up wall. Step left to go through break in overhang and up final wall.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Trad 55m, 2
23 Temple of Doom

Takes the major black streak up the headwall left of Indiana Jones, with a very thin crux amongst some amazing moderate climbing on great rock.

Straight up wall left of IJ to follow left leading diagonal line to it's end. Up overhanging wall to grey slab where the holds (and gear) appear to run out. Thin moves (and small wires) lead to relief at the overlap. If you survived the prehistoric birds, jug it out over final roof and up to belay.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 21 Nov 2015

Trad 50m
7 The Go-Between

Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.

  1. 34m (7) Start on massive jugs and continue up and left into the line. Belay out on the left wall when the crack bends sharpest to the left.

  2. 45m (7) Climb the left wall to the top.

FA: Chris O'Brien & Chris Baxter (alt), 1975

Trad 79m, 2
24 The Last Crusade

Steep cracky goodness. Hand to finger. Way over left on a separate wall.

FFA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2011

Trad 12m
Malcolm's Crack

Bring your arms and your technique. 40 degrees overhanging and sick.

24 A Fortunate Life

Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish.

FFA: James Scott Bohanna & Adam Demmert, 12 Oct 2012

Mixed 10m, 4

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