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Access issues inherited from Eureka Area

If the gate on the track is locked or signed as "Closed" then the track is CLOSED. Please do not drive around the gate. Driving on closed roads endangers access. Approach from Matthew Track if that is open, face a longer walk or climb elsewhere.

©

Approach

Approach as for 'Eureka Wall' and continue uphill for a further 10 minutes on a rough pad.

routes are desribed from right-to-left.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

5 metres R of 'Return to Gariwerd'. Start off small rock, tricky start on thin seams and opposing side pulls, easing upwards to great rounded holds. Belay off chicken heads.

FA: James Wynne, 2016

Lovely climbing with excellent protection.

Begin on the right edge of the blank orange shield. Up thin broken crack stepping left to flake then straight up the grey streak. The original route stopped here and descent was by scrambling off right with a possible rappel. However, a fantastic new finish was added in 2003 by Josh Janes:

Instead of stopping/belaying, hand traverse straight left under the roof for 15 meters. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds become more spaced. Eventually gain a good stance at the end of the roof and belay from a bolted anchor (added in 2017). Rap from here with a single 70m rope (a single 60m rope might reach - watch your ends).

FA: Louise Shepherd & Simon Mentz

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

FA: Kieth Lockwood & Enga Lokey, 1991

Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood & Enga Lokey, 1991

Start: Start down left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  1. 15m (17) Up the corner to the ledges just left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  2. 35m (25) Up to the flake that crosses the roof, swing out along this then up the smooth headwall to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Damien Carol, 1991

Activity

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