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Description

Steve Monks had a verrrry good month in February 1991.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Go about 3 km along Jananginj Jawi track to the highest point in the road and follow a rough, cairned track up the hillside.

35 minute walk up the hill.

It's worth going a further 200 metres(approx.) east along the road from the parking area to get a view of the cliff.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

2
20 Maxwell's Demon Trad 20m

A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty.

Start: Start 4m L of Newton's Law.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992

3
24 ** Newton's Law Trad 30m

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one!

Start: Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, 1991

4

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

5

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18.

Start: Start as for Newton's Law.

  1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break.

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

6

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

7

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's 'Theory' to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimede's Principle, finishing as for that route.

FA: Ross Taylor, Adam Demmert, 2009

8
27 Diminishing Returns Sport 30m

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

10
26 *** Archimedes' Principle Mixed 60m, 2

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. Often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

  1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

  2. 30m (26) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

  3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this.

FA: Keith Lockwood (p1), Steve Monks (p2&3), 1991

11

Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge.

Start: Start as for AP

13
26 *** Pythagoras's Theorem Mixed 50m, 3

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

  1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

  2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood (1), Steve Monks (2&3), 1991

14
26 * Ockham's Razor Mixed 40m, 5

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2009

15
29 *** Pavlov's Dog Sport 14

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

Set by kp, 2014

16
28 Cats & Dogs Mixed 10

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

FA: clean cut phil

17
25 ** Schrodinger's Cat Mixed 45m, 4

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look.

Start: Start 15m R of PT.

FA: Steve Monks, Martin Scheel, 1991

18
25 ** Vege Maths Mixed 30m, 8

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

FA: Toby Pola & Kent Paterson

19
16 The Alkali Tide Trad 50m

Worth doing for the second pitch experience.

Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.

  1. 30m (16) Boulder the roof then up to ledge. Slither up through overhang. Up 1 metre right of faded guano streak. Up and past left end of grassy ledge (slings). Belay on arete.

  2. 20m (1) Up.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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