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Table of contents

1. Eureka Wall 22 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.277062, -37.194314

Description:© (nmonteith)

Steve Monks had a verrrry good month in February 1991.

Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Go about 3 km along Jananginj Jawi track to the highest point in the road and follow a rough, cairned track up the hillside.

35 minute walk up the hill.

It's worth going a further 200 metres(approx.) east along the road from the parking area to get a view of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jimmy John's Direct

Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths.

FFA: Phil Gruber and Jimmy Gruber, 21st Sep

16Trad 70m
2 Nose Hairs

Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's.

FA: Jimmy, lily & phil Gruber

10Trad 100m
3 Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag. The next crack left of Newton's Law, 3 metres left of Maxwell's Demon, move left at ledge and continue straight up.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

17Trad 50m
4 Maxwell's Demon

A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992

20Trad 20m
5 ** Newton's Law

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, 1991

24Trad 30m
6 ** Diminishing Returns (Top Half)

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

23Trad 30m
7 Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns

Link up - Climb Darwins Theory to the top of the first pitch (obvious big break) the head up Diminishing returns for the last couple of bolts to anchor

8 ** Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches)

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18.

Start: Start as for Newton's Law.

  1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break.

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

18Trad 55m
9 Darwin's Theory pitch 3

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1991

23Trad 10m
10 * Foucault's Pendulum

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's 'Theory' to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimede's Principle, finishing as for that route.

FA: Ross Taylor, Adam Demmert, 2009

24Trad 45m
11 Diminishing Returns

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

27Sport 30m
12 * Archimedes Principle P1 22Trad 20m
13 *** Archimedes' Principle

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. Often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

  1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

  2. 30m (26) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

  3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this.

FA: Keith Lockwood (p1), Steve Monks (p2&3), 1991

26Mixed 60m, 2
14 ** String Theory

Pitch 1 - 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

Pitch 2 - 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

Start: Start as for AP

FFA: Adam Demmert, Malcolm Matherson, 17th Nov

27Mixed 80m, 8
15 Pythagoras' Theorem P1 20Trad 10m
16 *** Pythagoras' Theorem

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

  1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

  2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood (1), Steve Monks (2&3), 1991

26Mixed 50m, 3
17 * Ockham's Razor

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2009

26Mixed 40m, 5
18 *** General Relativity

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

FA: 2014

30Trad 48m
19 *** Pavlov's Dog

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

Set by kp, 2014

29Sport 14
20 Cats & Dogs

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

FA: clean cut phil

28Mixed 10
21 ** Schrodinger's Cat

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above.

FA: Steve Monks, Martin Scheel, 1991

25Mixed 45m, 4
22 *** Vege Maths

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

FA: Toby Pola & Kent Paterson

25Mixed 30m, 8

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 Nose Hairs Trad 100m
16 Jimmy John's Direct Trad 70m
17 Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle Trad 50m
18 ** Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches) Trad 55m
20 Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns Trad
Maxwell's Demon Trad 20m
Pythagoras' Theorem P1 Trad 10m
22 * Archimedes Principle P1 Trad 20m
23 Darwin's Theory pitch 3 Trad 10m
** Diminishing Returns (Top Half) Trad 30m
24 * Foucault's Pendulum Trad 45m
** Newton's Law Trad 30m
25 ** Schrodinger's Cat Mixed 45m, 4
*** Vege Maths Mixed 30m, 8
26 *** Archimedes' Principle Mixed 60m, 2
* Ockham's Razor Mixed 40m, 5
*** Pythagoras' Theorem Mixed 50m, 3
27 Diminishing Returns Sport 30m
** String Theory Mixed 80m, 8
28 Cats & Dogs Mixed 10
29 *** Pavlov's Dog Sport 14
30 *** General Relativity Trad 48m