Topo #6801 - Arial Overview - Eureka area

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Area Type
? The Lost World

Follow Jananginj Jawi track for 2km then follow cairned walking track until cairns run out then head left over the black slabs towards the tiered orange wall

Crag Unlink area
? Eureka Wall

Steve Monks had a verrrry good month in February 1991.

Crag Unlink area
? Eureka Towers

Approach as for 'Eureka Wall' and continue uphill for a further 10 minutes on a rough pad. routes are desribed from right-to-left.

Crag Unlink area
? The Red Sail

A stunning orange pillar east of and below "Eureka Wall" and clearly visible from the Jananginj Jawi track. A vague animal pad leads up to the cliff.

Crag Unlink area
? Hidden Buttress

This 45m high buttress is located up and right of The Lost World, directly behind a nice steep orange face (kind of looks like it should be part of that cliff from the road until you start walking up to it and realise it's separated). Climbing potential here is sadly limited however - but perhaps a little more development is available.

Cliff Unlink area

Topo #8300 - Jimmy John's Direct

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Jimmy John's Direct

Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths.

16 PG Trad 70m Unlink route
3 Nose Hairs

Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's.

10 Trad 100m Unlink route
2 Going In Blind

1: starting 15 metres left of Nose Hairs climb direct up slab/ramp to left side of roof at half height (40m) 2: Traverse out left and up over bulge easily and up and right joining into Nose Hairs for summit.

11 Trad 90m 2 Unlink route

Topo #2973

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Route Grade Popularity Style
14 *** Archimedes' Principle

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. Often worked in 1 pitch from the ground. Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall. 1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay. 2. 30m (26) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade. 3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this.

26 Mixed 60m 3, 2 Unlink route
17 *** Pythagoras' Theorem

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here. It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored. Start: Start under the central corner. 1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner. 2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

26 Mixed 50m 2, 3 Unlink route
4 Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag. The next crack left of Newton's Law, 3 metres left of Maxwell's Demon, move left at ledge and continue straight up.

17 Trad 50m Unlink route
5 Maxwell's Demon

A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves.

20 Trad 20m Unlink route
9 *** Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches)

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18. Start: Start as for Newton's Law. 1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break. 2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

18 Trad 55m 2 Unlink route
13 Archimedes Principle P1
22 Trad 20m Unlink route
16 Pythagoras' Theorem P1
20 Trad 10m Unlink route
22 ** Schrodinger's Cat

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above.

25 Mixed 45m, 4 Unlink route
18 * Ockham's Razor

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

26 Mixed 40m, 5 Unlink route
? The Alkali Tide

Worth doing for the second pitch experience (not!). Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall. 1. 30m (16) Boulder the roof then up to ledge. Slither up through overhang. Up 1 metre right of faded guano streak. Up and past left end of grassy ledge (slings). Belay on arete. 2. 20m (1) Up.

16 Trad 50m 2 Unlink route
10 Darwin's Theory pitch 3

Natural selection in action: nobody does this. Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

23 Trad 10m Unlink route
11 * Foucault's Pendulum

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's 'Theory' to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimede's Principle, finishing as for that route.

24 Trad 45m Unlink route
7 *** Diminishing Returns (Top Half)

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

23 Trad 30m Unlink route
12 Diminishing Returns

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

27 Sport 30m Unlink route
20 *** Pavlov's Dog

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

29 Sport 14 Unlink route
23 *** Vege Maths

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

25 Mixed 30m, 8 Unlink route
21 Cats & Dogs

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

28 Mixed 10 Unlink route
19 *** General Relativity

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

30 Trad 48m Unlink route
15 ** String Theory

Start: Start as for AP 1) 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt 2) 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

27 Mixed 80m 2, 8 Unlink route

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