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Showing 1 - 100 out of 173 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Hindu Kush
20 Serpents KIss

At the right-hand end of the main cliff-line there is a very steep wall, Little Tjuringa Wall. The shelter is 100 metres further left. At the right end of Little Tjuringa Wall is a short, black, seamy-looking corner. Start up the right crack, step left and up with difficulty to the horizontal. Up easy headwall to belay.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2001

Trad 15m
12 Andy Long Route

Two compact grey buttresses can be seen at the top of the ridge while walking up. They are best seen from Snake-Bite Pass. Take the left buttress, starting on the left and finishing up the crack on the right of the top face.

FA: Andy Long, 1992

Trad 25m
16 * Sluts Rule

No description

FA: S Pateman & S Holloway, 2004

Trad 12m
The Hindu Kush Couple Of Pansies Wall
6 Newby

Climb crack above cairn for 8 metres, step left and continue up wall.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1992

Trad 25m
18 Jesus Gotta Do This

25 metres left of Newby at the base of the steep, loose slope and near the right-hand end of the large overhang is an overhanging crack/corner. The steep crack and corner. Possible belay then short wall above and left.

FA: Alan Hope, Andy Long & Annette Halley, 1992

Trad 40m
11 Couple Of Pansies

Start 30 metres left of the shelter cave where the roof ends and there is a grey wall. Bridge off the dead tree and pull onto the wall. Up 2 metres then traverse right for 3 metres until level with a tree, then up steeply.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Dave Gairns, 1993

Trad 26m
13 Whispers Of Immortality

Pull up to traverse line then traverse above the lip of overhang almost to the dark brown rock (25m) then up finish via a short corner.

Start: Start 2 metres left of "A Couple Of pansies".

FA: James McIntosh & Gordon Talbett, 1994

Trad 40m
10 Sahay

Start as for "Couple Of Pansies" then go straight up wall just right of second tree.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Tanya Freeman, 1997

Trad 15m
14 A Preposterous Adventure

Between the Couple Of Pansies wall and the Tower Of Silence is a gully.Scramble up the gully, walk right below a wall with a strong roof line and then uphill past the right end of this wall and back left above it. If you're not lost, above is a steep wall with a pronounced left-leaning diagonal line on its right side. Originally done in two pitches. Scramble up the wall a bit to a ledge about 6 metres left of the diagonal line. Up to the diagonal, then up the steep groove to a stance. Follow the line up and left, and then climb the steep grey wall to the top, taking care with blocks on top.

FA: Dave Gairns & Gordon Talbett, 1993

Trad 36m
The Hindu Kush Tower of Silence
11 Tower Of Silence

Scramble up to the base of the tower which has a wide, juggy groove below the right arete.

  1. 42m (11) Pull up into the groove and follow it for about 10 metres until able to make an awkward step left around the arete. Climb the right-hand side of the smooth wall to a ledge. Cross the ledge to the corner crack and follow this to a bushy ledge.

  2. 15m (-) Climb 3 metres further up the corner crack, then step up/left and traverse left across the face of the tower to belay past the left arete.

  3. 15m (-) Finish up the scary jugs above (the top of the second pitch of A Short Walk In The Hindu Kush)

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Watling, 1992

Trad 72m
13 A Short Walk In The Hindu Kush

Hideously fragile finish. Start as for Tower Of Silence.

  1. 25m (13) Climb the groove and make the swkward step left around the arete. Take the rising line left across the face to belay below a small overhang near the left arete.

  2. 40m (13) Crux. Follow a ramp up right to a steepening. Traverse left to the arete of the tower with hands in the horizontal break. Follow the arete to the top passing innumerable heinous jugs.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1992

Trad 65m
18 Meetings With Remarkable Men
  1. 20m (18) 'Steep' line under left edge of smooth wall on "Tower Of Silence".

  2. 40m (-) Up past left side of small roof, then jugs.

FA: James McIntosh & Sharon George (alt), 1997

Trad 60m, 2
The Hindu Kush Krak de Chevaliers Terrace
16 I Used To Be A Sport Climber But I'm Allright Now

Start: Start 20 metres right of "Pissoir" at a steep orange wall

  1. 25m (16) Very steeply up centre of orange wall to a groove and up to cave belay.

  2. 50m (-) Walk 5 metres left then up easily.

Trad 75m, 2
17 Ki Jaye

Start 2 metres left of "I Used To Be etc". Climb on small edges to horizontal break then straight up wall to ledge. Walk off left to gully.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Tanya Freeman, 1997

Trad 20m
10 Pissoir

Follow the water streak, trending slightly left of it towards the top. Scramble up the slabs on the left until able to step across the gully beneath the water streak.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Andy Long, 1992

Trad 45m
11 Bon Soir

Start up Pissoir and step left after the initial overlap. Up the grey wall (just right of Krak De Chevaliers) and then straight up, aiming for the right-hand end of the roof at the top. Tree belay.

FA: Dave Gairns & Gordon Talbett, 1993

Trad 45m
10 Krak De Chevaliers

From just left of Bon Soir climb up to the flake/crack line and follow this up and left. Pull through an obvious break in the roof and on to the top.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Andy Long, 1992

Trad 45m
15 Man In The High Castle
Trad 50m
The Hindu Kush Frank Zappa Tier
17 * Bonanza Jellybean

Small wall just before track reaches Frank Zappa alcove. Up small right-facing flake, step right and up over bulge into small hanging corner. Easy to top.

FA: Steve Holloway & Simon Pateman, 2004

Trad 12m
20 ** Frank Zappa

A stunning climb. Short people can add a couple of grades. On the lower tier, directly below The Tower Of Silence, the distinctive corner of very compact rock.

FA: Andy Long & Bill Farrand, 1993

Trad 16m
The Hindu Kush Main Wall
10 Thelonius Monkey

Up the ramp, just before the Main Wall, is a big right-jutting roof with a chimney above. There is a big block on the ramp below the roof. Scramble 6 metres to the top of the block (belay possible). Step from the right end of the ledge and climb straight up the steep juggy wall (do not veer right into the groove).

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Whitfield, 1993

Trad 46m
15 Last Temptation

Climb the wall by the right-hand crack to the left edge of the obvious overhang. Pull through this and continue directly up to the finishing ledge. Continue up the ramp to the right arete of the Main Wall where there are two cracks. Belay from a tree.

FA: Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1992

Trad 40m
10 Divine Invasion

Steep and exposed but with good holds and protection Start just left of Last Temptation Up the left-hand crack to a horizontal break and step left into another thin crack. Follow this crack and then trend right to a belay ledge.

FA: Andy Long, Alan Hope & Annette Halley, 1992

Trad 40m
12 Android Dreaming

Walk left below the ramp leading to the Main Wall until a grey buttress is reached, directly below a steep crack-line in Main Wall above. Alternatively, continue left from the foot of Frank Zappa to here.

  1. 25m (-) Climb the grey buttress to the ledge.

  2. 30m (12) Up the crack-line directly behind the first pitc, via a sentry box and through numerous overlaps.

FA: -) Climb the grey buttress to the ledge. P2 (30m, 12) Up the crack-line directly behind the first pitc, Gordon Talbett & Andy Long, 1992

Trad 55m
The Hindu Kush The Donjon
17 Triad

Steep climbing on generally good rock. Start 4 metres left of Android Dreaming's belay. Straight up wall to short corner. Up to horizontal break then pull through onto steep headwall. Step right, to finish just left of Android Dreaming.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2000

Trad 30m
17 Trouble With Effy

More good climbing on excellent rock. Start a few metres left of Triad Go right, then left to crack then up and left to horizontals. Ignore Effy Sportage(diagonal) and climb shallow corner to major horizontal. Finish up final overhang of Effy Sportage.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2000

Trad 20m
10 Effy Sportage

A pleasant doddle with steep finish taking the obvious diagonal line.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2000

Trad 20m
15 Rock Hudson

Start as for Effy Sportage. Climb the wall and corner directly above to the horizontal. Step right then pull over the short, steep headwall on jugs.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2000

Trad 18m
The Hindu Kush Coodabeen Buttress
10 Wannabe Hardmen

Start 1.5 metres left of the left-hand water streak.

  1. 30m (10) Straight up, just left of the water streak to a ledge and belay in the shallow corner on the right.

  2. 40m (10) Go up the short corner 1.5 metres left of the belay and continue straight up to finish 2 metres left of the fangs of Coodabeen Hardmen

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & John Lamb, 1993

Trad 70m, 2
11 Coodabeen Hardmen

Start 2.5 metres left of the left-hand water streak.

  1. 30m, (11) Climb the wall between the two water-streaks, staying right of the V-groove at 10 metres. At the large ledge move 3 metres right to a belay in a shallow corner.

  2. 40m Step right from the belay, climb through a bush and go up a juggy groove. Follow the steep juggy rock, tending slightly left to the base of a smooth grey wall. Go straight up to the overhanging fangs, step right below the fangs and then up to the summit (don't touch the fangs).

FA: Peter Watling, Gordon Talbett & Dave Gairns, 1992

Trad 70m, 2
10 A Climb For St Cecilia's Day

Start between the water streaks, as for Coodabeen Hardmen.

  1. 42m. (10) Up 7 metres to the left-hand short groove-crack. Step up left onto the water streak (when it's dry!) and follow its right-hand edge to the overhanging wall. Climb the steep groove just right of the streak and step right to belay.

  2. 30m (-) Continue up just right of the streak past several overlaps to the top.

Trad 72m, 2
14 Hot Pants Explosion

Start 80 metres left of A Climb For St Cecilia's Day.

  1. 40m. (14) Follow the crack splitting the centre of the buttress to the obvious line of overlaps. Pull left through the overhang and then up the right edge of the buttress to a ledge.

  2. 20m. Climb up 5 metres to the main roof then chicken off left and up.

FA: Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1992

Trad 60m, 2
15 Cross-Eyed And Deflated

Start 6 metres left of Hot Pants Explosion.

  1. 23m (-) Climb the buttress left of the lichen/moss streak to belay below the corner.

  2. 25m (15) Climb a crack, then up the obvious corner. Old-fashioned moves up the steep orange corner then exit left to the gully.

FA: Mark Poustie, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1993

Trad 48m, 2
The Hindu Kush Jayne Mansfields Bum Buttress
16 Twist And Shout

Start at the right edge of Jayne Mansfield's Bum buttress.

  1. 25m Climb the ragged crack on the right side of the buttress, through the wide crack and make an unlikely traverse across the right wall to a ledge.

  2. 20m (16) Make an exposed step left and climb the steep crack followed by easy bridging to the top.

FA: Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1992

Trad 45m, 2
22 * Jayne Mansfield

Start: Start at the loose line on the right side of the buttress just left of Twist and Shout.

  1. 35m (22) Up the line to a ledge. Pull strenuously up the right side of the smooth short wall to a stance. Up the arete left of the Twist and Shout until it's possible to step left into the curving sickle then left again to below the roof-crack. Up this, to hard traverse left on to the wall in a spectacular position. Easily up to ledge.

  2. 10m (-) Easily up wall above.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Geoff Butcher (alt), 1997

Trad 45m, 2
17 Hollywood Babylon

Start: Start as for" The Worst Job In The World".

  1. 20m (-) As for "The Worst Job In The World".

  2. 20m (17) Step right on to the wall, up right to break through the overhangs. Up easily.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Glenn Tempest (alt), 1997

Trad 40m, 2
9 The Worst Job In The World

The slabby buttress left of Jayne Mansfield's Bum, avoiding the tricky bits. A variety of exits are possible from the top of the pinnacle; the left-most crack on the small pinnacle behind is probably the easiest.

FA: Andy Long, 1992

Trad 35m
16 Rock Bottom

Start at the next buttress left of The Worst Job In The World Climb the central seam of the buttress, stepping left to avoid the obvious bulge. Regain the line and climb to the ledge. Possible belay here before climbing the the grungy 6 metre-high buttress behind.

FA: Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1992

Trad 31m
9 Joan Crawford

Climb the juggy groove on the right. From the ledge, climb the steep little wall just left of the crack.

Start: Start as for "Back Passage".

FA: Michael Hampton & Kym Sinclair, 1997

Trad 31m
9 Back Passage

Start: Start just left of "Rock Bottom".

  1. 26m (9) Up crack into chimney. Wide bridging to ledge on right.

  2. 6m (9) Overhanging, strenuous, rope-stretching corner-crack.

FA: Peter Watling & Tony Brotherton (alt), 2000

Trad 32m, 2
The Hindu Kush Pyramid Tiers
9 Mir Samir

Just left of the descent gully on the lower tier is a ragged groove with some small bushes in it. Up the groove (loose block near bush) then up water-polished wall and over the overhang at the top.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Andy Long & Ian Newell, 1993

Trad 40m
15 The Golden Road To Samarkand

20 metres left of Mir Samir are two seams starting from a black recess. Take the left-hand black seam with ragged jugs. At the ledge pull over the overhang with some dubious holds and continue up.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Andy Long & Bill Farrand, 1993

Trad 35m
18 Pyramid Power

40 metres left of Mir Samir is a grey-orange pyramid below massive roofs.

  1. (25m, 18) Up right-leading ramp on left edge of pyramid to the apex of the pyramid then traverse right and step up. Dynamic climbing up right to a stance on the arete.

  2. (22m, -) Up.

FA: Bill Farrand, Gordon Talbett (alt) & Andy Long, 1993

Trad 47m, 2
13 Turkestan

Start at the left side of the pyramid, as for Pyramid Power.

  1. (22m, -) Up left wall of corner to large slab/ledge.

  2. (25m, 13) Up crack at right end of ledge then the crack on the left to a delicate traverse right to a crack which leads to the top. Poorish rock on this pitch.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Dave Gairns, 1993

Trad 47m, 2
The Hindu Kush The Smiley Face
19 * Back On Track

A gem. Before the gully leading to The Smiley Face is an orange wall with a flake line and a thin, diagonal right-leading crack. Bridge up and climb the diagonal crack.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1997

Trad 20m
17 * Laughter Line

Good holds, good gear, good rock.

Start as for Happy Birthday Climb the left crack. Finish up headwall, topping out at a block.

FA: Michael Hampton & Kym Sinclair, 1997

Trad 33m
17 Grin

More steep climbing on buckets.

Start as for "Laughter Line".

Step left to climb the water-streak to the flake. Up easily.

FA: Michael Hampton & GlennTtempest, 2000

Trad 30m
18 Stressed Out Wimps

Start just right of the notch at the top of the Smiley Face Pull through the undercuts and climb to what looks like a loose block, but allows a wide step left to the base of a steep double crack-line. Follow the crack to the notch and the top.

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & Mark Poustie, 1992

Trad 32m
12 A Melon For Ecstasy

Left of the Smiley Face is a small grey wall. Climb the ramp/groove line near the right edge of the face. Take care with loose rock on top.

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & Mark Poustie, 1993

Trad 20m
12 Slobs And Coppers

Start 3 metres left of A Melon For Ecstasy below groove at top of wall. Up wall and into groove. Take care with loose rock on top.

FA: Ian Newell, Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1993

Trad 20m
9 Persian Proverbs

Start 4 metres left of Slobs And Coppers. Up stepped groove and then the crack up the wall. Take care with loose rocks on top.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Dave Gairns, 1993

Trad 22m
9 Koh-I-Noor

Behind the top of the Smiley Face is a grey tower. This is the left end of the upper cliff-line that runs left from the top of the descent gully. Climb the line on the left-hand face of the tower to a corner capped by a roof. Step left to the arete and then up the face.

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & Mark Poustie, 1993

Trad 27m
11 Musulman

Start just right of Koh-I-Noor and around the arete. Up the deep crack until it is feasible to pull left onto the arete and continue steeply to the top.

FA: Dave Cairns & Gordon Talbett, 1993

Trad 40m
The Hindu Kush Nuristan
18 From Here To Eternity

Start: Start from a ledge below the cebtre of the face, 5 metres right of and obvious perched block and 10 metres right "The man Who Would Be King"

  1. 17m (18) Very steep climbing up the crack/weakness(?) in the orange-grey mottled wall to a large ledge.

  2. 18m (16) Move 3 metres left along the ledge to a deep crack running up right. Follow this crack and then the steep grey wall to easier ground.

FA: David gairns & Gordon Talbett (alt), 1994

Trad 35m, 2
16 The Man Who Would Be King

P1 (20m, -) Climb the diagonal finger crack and then up/left to belay just left of the fang. P2 (20m, 16) From the top of the fang pull up into the corner, then up the steep wall at the right end of the roof.

FA: Mark Poustie, Alan Hope (alt) & Gordon Talbett

Trad 40m
The Hindu Kush Yogistan
6 Lucky Last

Climb straight up grey rock past some bulges.

FA: Gordon Talbett & James McIntosh, 1994

Trad 40m
6 Rum Doddle

Follow the prominent left-leaning crack/ramp until below the final roof. Step right and steeply up.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Whitfield, 1993

Trad 40m
11 Champagne For Medicinal Purposes

Start 4 metres right of the left arete. Easy at first the steep and exciting on great jugs.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Dave Gairns, 1993

Trad 30m
10 Summer Lassitude

Start just right of the left arete. Follow the crack-line through the short, bottomless corner.

FA: John Lamb, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1993

Trad 28m
11 Ground Glass Stew

Start just left of the left arete. Step off the block onto the smooth face. Pull onto the arete (just right of the left roof) and climb steeply up the arete.

FA: John Lamb, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1993

Trad 30m
Alex Creek Tiers Club Wall
14 Mixed Couples

The crack, with some pure jamming for a few moves.

FA: Michael Hampton, Chuck Stacey & Sharyn George, 1997

Trad 6m
Alex Creek Tiers Garbo Gulch
12 Baked Beans

Take the ramp to the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Chuck Stacey & Sharyn George, 1998

Trad 12m
13 I Vant To Be Halone

Climb the ragged flake above the start of the ramp.

FA: Chuck Stacey & Sharyn George, 1997

Trad 8m
19 * Hidaway Layaway

The first line in from the right-hand end of the wall is a little gem. Climb corner to left of overhang. Pull through then move right into line.

FA: Chuck Stacey, Geoff Butcher & Sharyn George, 1998

Trad 12m
Alex Creek Tiers Beesting Wall
18 Beestings On A Boofhead

trad Enjoyable now that the bees have gone. Start at the easiest-looking, left-most diagonal (3 in from the right) Up to horizontal and traverse right to obvious bucket. Pull up, then step right, up again then right to finish up juggy flake.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2000

Trad 18m
13 In Bed With Brian Wilson

Start on arete 8 metres right of Beestings On A Boofhead Climb wall to large ledge and continue up headwall.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Samantha Raffay, 1999

Trad 30m
Alex Creek Tiers Alex Axe Wall
21 Each To Their Own

The first line 2 metres in from the right-hand end of the wall. 'Flake' to flat top, then hard moves up faint line to big groove.

FA: Chuck Stacey & Geoff Butcher, 1998

Trad 9m
16 Frigging In The Rain

Small crack up arete just left of chimney.

FA: Chuck Stacey & Geoff Butcher, 2000

Trad 10m
20 Careful With That Axe Alex

Ten metres left of "Frigging In The Rain" is a crack-line with an "axe blade". Crack to blade, use this to exit.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Chuck Stacey & Sharyn George, 1998

Trad 10m
Alex Creek Tiers Alex Main Wall
15 R Don't Bugger The Bush

The right-leading flake/corner line has its moments and is escapable near the top. Protection on the crux is poor.

FA: Michael hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1997

Trad 22m
Swamp Wall
14 I Can See For Miles And Miles

A bit scrappy. Walk-off A bit scrappy. The set of diagonals to the right of the wide line (On A Wing And A Prayer) on the south face. Not to be confused with the unclimbed thin crack just right of the wide line!

FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Miles Martin, 1983

Trad 55m
16 * On A Wing And A Prayer

...and a six-inch tube.

Start: Start below the wide line in the centre of the south face.

  1. 20m (16) Climb the left-hand crack to the cave.

  2. 35m (16) Chimney up and out to the front of the line and continue to the top.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1983

Trad 55m, 2
12 Belching Frogs

The arete on the left edge of the south face. Follow a ramp leading right for 5 or 6 metres then traverse left to gain the arete and follow it.

FA: Alan Hope & Kieran Loughran, 1985

Trad 30m
18 The Beardstroker's Apprentice

"...fetch the left-handed jaffle iron, lad, and I'll tell you a story..."

Start: Between the south face and the big corner is a scrappy black line that becomes a chimney-gully just left of an orange overhang.

Climb just right of this (?scrappy black line) to overhang then traverse right until under cracks in headwall. Pull through, step right, then diagonally leftwards following vague juggy flake.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1997

Trad 30m
11 Swamp Pinnacle

There is a separate pinnacle in front of the crag below the big corner. Mike Law has soloed up the north arete and down the north-east face. Both ways are grade 11.

Trad
17 Swamp Stomp

Pleasant wall climbing based on a series of flakes and cracks on the left side of the right wall of The GA Or FM Corner. Start a few metres right of The GA Or FM Corner. Boulder up to the first flake and a good pocket/jug which takes a #2.0 cam. Follow flakes and cracks to left end of overlap. Up to flake, then shallow left-facing corner.

FA: Michael hampton & Kym Sinclair, 1997

Trad 30m
11 * The G.A. Or F.M. Corner

If you can't find this corner give the game away. The major corner.

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham, 1978

Trad 35m
19 Treacherous Forearms

The steep left wall of the big corner offers sustained climbing with some brittle rock.

FA: Michael hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1997

Trad 30m
14 Council Approval Denied

If this was a building, it would be condemned.

Start: Start 5 metres right of "The Kubara" and just left of an arete and some pines.

  1. 27m (14) Up,step right then back left and follow the groove line (loose blocks) to the roof.

  2. 25m (-) Climb the crack past the right end of the roof and so to the top.

FA: Alan Hope, Mark Poustie (alt) & Gordon talbett, 1993

Trad 52m, 2
16 The Kubara

Start: Start on the front of the buttress left of the grotty gully where a steep groove leads to the left end of some overhangs and a roof.

  1. 35m (16) Straight up the groove to move left through the overhangs and up to the roof. Exit left and go up to a ledge.

  2. 35m (-) Finish straight up.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling & Keith Egerton, 1978

Trad 70m, 2
11 Fungus The Bogman

Start 10 - 15 metres left of "The Kubara" below a small roof at 12 metres.

  1. 25m (11) Up mossy wall then grey wall to small corner at left end of the small roof.

  2. 40m (-) Follow ramp up left, then up easily to top.

FA: Mark Poustie, Gordon talbett (alt) & Alan Hope, 1993

Trad 65m, 2
14 HMS

You've got buckley's of following this route description, and how it relates to the other worthless routes is anyone's guess.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "The Kubara"

  1. 25m (14) Follow flakes and corners left of "The Kubara" to a cave.

  2. 25m (14) Up and diagonally right (or maybe diagonally left as the original write-up had it) under two sets of roofs until under a diagonal roof. Traverse right to the lip and crevasse stance.

  3. 40m (-) Frontpoint easily around the lip.and up.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1979

Trad 90m, 3
14 Peregrine

Further around left, on the north face, is a left-leaning diagonal roof-line with an overhang low down. Start a few metres left of the line, by a native pine.

Go straight up the yellow wall to a small ledge, swing around the weakness in the overhang and continue up the main line.

FA: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979

Trad 25m
6 Lupin

Left of Peregrine is a gully which is the normal descent route. On the east side of the gully is a cliff with a roof towards its left side. Two lines lead up to the roof.

This is the right-hand line, a flake, to the roof. Move right and up to a bushy ledge. Chimney to top.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

Trad 20m
7 Picaninny

Climb the left line to the roof and exit left.

FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham, 1978

Trad 10m
15 * Swamp Fox

One of the better climbs hereabouts, although that's not saying much.

Start: Start 20 metres left of "Picanniny" at diagonal cracks on a steep wall.

Climb a short vertical crack 3 metres left of the foot of the diagonals to the first diagonal crack. Follow this diagonal until steep face-climbing leads up right to the base of the second diagonal crack. Finish steeply up this crack.

FA: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979

Trad 28m
17 * Swamp Fox Variant

Follow "Swamp Fox"'s first diagonal all the way until it finishes. Plonk some gear in a good horizontal and go straight up the black streak to exit as for "Swamp Fox".

FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, Michael Hampton & Helen Barbin, 2000

Trad 28m
Kindergarten Wall
12 Blowing Gum

Twin cracks at left end of wall.

FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1996

Trad 14m
17 Tattle Tales

Up line 1.5 metres right of "Blowing Gum" to overlap and through

FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1996

Trad 14m
18 Thomas the Tank Engine

Through overlap, up line and bulge.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Tattle Tales"

FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1996

Trad 10m
Big Wall
14 Dug Scott

Climb the corner at the left end of the cliff, go left under the roof and finish steeply.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Sue Matthews, 1983

Trad 25m
13 Upward Propulsion

There aren't enough chances to practise this technique. The body-crack down right of Dug Scott.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Sue Matthews, 1983

Trad 40m
14 Goody Two-Shoes

The line just right of "Upward Propulsion" with a very loose undercut start.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Sue Matthews, 1983

Trad 40m
Stumpytail Rock
19 A Strain On The Marriage

Wide crack where nuts are supposed to be more use than cams. Take large hexes and either 4.5 tube or equivalent Bigbro. The yellow crack in the west face is quite steep and has an exciting finish.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1987

Trad 20m
Water Race Wall
16 Beachball

The seam on the left.

FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1993

Trad 11m
18 Wet Behind The Ears

The second line from the left.

FA: Michael Hampton, 1993

Trad 14m
19 Dipstick

A bouldery little number. Up seams just left of Wet Behind The Ears.

FA: Michael hampton, Kym Sinclair & Geoff Butcher, 1997

Trad 12m
19 Pass Me A Bucket Please!

The next crack.

FA: Michael Hampton, 1993

Trad 15m
15 Pipeline

The top-to-bottom crack splitting the middle of the wall.

FA: Michael Hampton & Glenn Tempest, 1993

Trad 17m
19 H2O

Shallow corner to right-facing curving flake. Move left at horizontal weakness then up.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1993

Trad 15m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 173 routes.