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Description

The big, grey, north-facing wall high in the Muline Creek Valley is serious cliff offering thin, poorly protected wall climbing on excellent rock. For serious callers only.

Originally called 'Generation Gap' by the first people to climb on the cliff but, unaware of this, a later next party called it 'Cervantes Wall', a much more suitable name for this fine cliff.

The cliff is often running with water so have a good look from the road before walking in.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Approach from the left end of Muline Cave via a faint pad.

Descend by a 50 metre abseil down "Baltic City", leaving a very long sling, or down the cleft left of "Dracula's Blood"

© (kieranl)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 Dracula's Blood Trad 45m

Steep, juggy climbing and some disconcerting rock.

Start: Start at right-hand end of cliff at obvious flake ramp sweeping up right.

FA: Melanie and James McIntosh, 1991

2

OK but some poor rock.

Start: Scramble 5 metres up the ramp above "Dracula's Blood" to belay.

  1. 25m (17) Easily up ramp. Up onto wall and traverse left along line to above the belay. Up weakness to overhang, undercling around left and climb line to stance.

  2. 20m (-) Rotten line above, then left and up.

FA: Steve Hamilton, Chris Baxter, 1989

3
21 R ** Don Quixote Trad 60m

Great but both pitches are bold and require drive.

Start: Start right of the huge wall, where a smooth wall rises out of the forest.

  1. 60m (21) Step onto wall from a boulder on the right and climb the vague prow on excellent rock. When things ease, move left and up to belay.

  2. 40m (21) Step left and up another vague prow in the wall until a right-leaning flake-line leads up to the roof-line. Ste left at roof then climb around it at its narrowest point. Move right on the brink of the roof, then up headwall past right side of upper roof-line.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, 1991

4
23 R ** Cervantes Wall Mixed 55m, 1

Takes the smooth convex wall left of "Don Quixote", starting by the shady gum tree.

  1. 55m (23) Delicately past bolt at 6 metres then step right to good nut. Up and slightly leftward until the climbing eases. Tend rightward up beautiful rock to an incut ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Up thin vertical crack directly above belay, with a slight detour via a flake on the left. Finish via a cave under the summit roof (as led) or straight up the overhanging white cleft (as seconded).

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks (alt), Norm Booth, 1992

5
24 X ** Tilting At Windmills Trad 70m

A grand route with solid climbing well out from runners.

Start: Start at the left end of the long ledge under the main wall, under a small flake high up.

  1. 40m (24) Move up on the left, then balance delicately up right to a break. Move right then precariously up to the next break. Traverse back left then straight up to the flake. Step left at top of flake and boldly up wall above to stance.

  2. 30m (-) Up, then tend left up wall until able to gain right-hand end of huge horizontal block at the summit overhang. Pull over roof-line to top.

FA: Mark Hopkins, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1992

6
19 * Baltic City Mixed 50m, 2

Head up right to a bush, up thin crack, left along break to a bolt, then straight up past another bolt and the left edge of the crater.

Start: Start about 20 metres left of "Tilting At Windmills" on large boulders, below a crater high on the wall.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

7
21 R * Sancho Panza Trad 50m

Runout climbing up a superb wall.

Start: Start just left of "Baltic City"

  1. 35m (21) Up left a bit then straight up, about 10 metres left of "Baltic City". At about 30 metres traverse right to a wide flat jug then back left along a dyke-seam then up to the end of the big ledge.

  2. 15m (-) Up easily.

FA: Keith Lockwood, James McIntosh (alt) and Melanie McIntosh, 1993

Open trips

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