A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Goat Track 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

1.1. Pygmy Terrace 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:© (kieranl)

A series of compact orange walls with terraces in between. This is the right-hand side of the same escarpment as "Millenium Caves". This area is closer to the road than "Millenium" but it is nothing like as good.

Mobile phones get Telstra coverage from the top terrace, deteriorating as you get closer to ground level.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive up Goat Track from Buandik and park at the Cave of Fishes car-park (as for "Millenium Caves"). The top terrace, with a red wall and cave, is visible above the tree tops to the right as you face the start of the "Millenium" track. The terraces rise from right-to-left so, from the start of the "Millenium Caves" track, aim to the right of the top terrace.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Curse Of The Vampire Goldfish

The only climb positiviely identified and looks OK. Interesting traverse.

Start: Start at the righthand end of the upper terrace.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

18Mixed 20m, 1
2 Yerba Mate

Hard Start

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

17Trad 18m
3 Timor

Left arete from middle terrace

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

9Trad 19m
4 Vukovar

Face 2 metres right of 'Timor'

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

8Trad 10m
5 Consequential

Face right of 'Vukovar'

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

9Trad 10m
6 Silence And Speed

Layback, then face right of 'Consequential'

FA: Geoff Butcher (solo), 1991

10Trad 10m
7 Workaholics

Up from block right of 'Silence And Speed'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

15Trad 12m
8 The Jig Is Up

Face above block 1 metre right of 'Workaholics'.

FA: Chris Lawrence, Geoff Butcher, 1991

13Trad 12m
9 Stress Shared

Crack 1 metre right of 'The Jig Is Up'

FA: Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence, 1991

16Trad 12m
10 Triangle Fridge

Left under flake 4 metres right of 'Stress Shared' to juggy bulge. Left to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

16Trad 14m
11 Not Chewing Gum

Poor protection. Corner, bulge, wall 1 metre right of 'Triangle Fridge'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

19 RTrad 14m
12 East Across The Pampas

Follow left-leaning crack at right end of cliff to arete. go around arete and along the main face.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

21Trad 40m
13 Glad To See The Boat

Prominent flake line 2 metres right of "Condor Capers". Hard start unless you're tall.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

21Trad 12m
14 Condor Capers

Take the charcoal-black corner line in the middle of the wall. At horizontal break, move right up flake to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

18Trad 21m

1.2. Goat Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Description:© (kieranl)

A limited crag with easy access.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Located on the south side of Goat Track, 800 metres east of Cultivation Creek shelter. Crag is 25 metres from road.

GR 171780 (Victoria Gap 1:25000)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Remedy

Steep with a go-for-it finish.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Stuart Imer, 1992

22Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
8 Vukovar Trad 10m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
9 Consequential Trad 10m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
Timor Trad 19m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
10 Silence And Speed Trad 10m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
13 The Jig Is Up Trad 12m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
15 Workaholics Trad 12m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
16 Stress Shared Trad 12m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
Triangle Fridge Trad 14m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
17 Yerba Mate Trad 18m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
18 Condor Capers Trad 21m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
Curse Of The Vampire Goldfish Mixed 20m, 1 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
19 Not Chewing Gum Trad 14m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
21 East Across The Pampas Trad 40m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
Glad To See The Boat Trad 12m 1.1. Pygmy Terrace
22 Remedy Trad 15m 1.2. Goat Wall