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Description

This little cliff has some excellent middle-grade climbs on fine rock. Many of the descents are by abseil from trees but this is not always mentioned in descriptions.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Head off Waterworks Track not far north of the junction with Glenelg River Road, either at the gravel pit, or go a little further north to Native Pines Creek and walk up the creek. The cliff is obvious, with two short rock tiers before the main cliff is reached.

© (kieranl)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The wobbly pinnacle that is easily seen looking up and right as you slog up the final gully towards the crag. From the lowest point, ascend the clean face and pass the summit overhang on the right. Descend easily off the back.

FA: Stu Dobbie & Enmoore Lin, 2016

2
20 Unberievable Trad 15m

Not too bad.

FA: Keith Egerton & Phil Wilkins, 1983

3
21 Croak And Dagger Trad 15m

Never trust a lawyer.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kieran Loughran, 1983

4
8 One Eighth Trad 12m

Further right into the alcove, right of the off-width, is a corner with twin cracks.

FA: Neil Blundy & Brian Doolan, 1983

5
10 Irky Perky Trad 15m

A bulge in the cliff 10 metres right of "One Eighth" produces some bouldery starts. This takes an arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1983

6
16 April Fools Trad 15m

Similar to the previous climb, starting by a tree to the right.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Pete Megens, 1983

7
10 Buns Trad 25m

The line just right of "April Fools" on a juggy wall. Veer right to go through a steepening and then left to the top.

FA: Neil Blundy & Brian Doolan, 1983

8
18 * Catherine Trad 18m

Quite a nice climb, somewhat spoiled by the grassy finish.

FA: Peter Megens & Hugh Foxcroft, 1983

9
15 Quakers Trad 15m

The prominent V-corner 30 metres left of the orange wall.

FA: David Gairns, Hugh Foxcroft & Miles Martin, 1983

10
13 Bananas In Pyjamas Trad 24m

Energetic moves up the foot of the arete lead to easier ground. Follow the left edge of the buttress to the top.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Quakers" at the right arete of its corner.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1992

11
9 Floppsy Bunnies Trad 21m

Climb the centre of the buttress via a very shallow corner in the upper half. There is a good abseil tree above the buttress just to the right.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Bananas In Pyjamas" is a broad grey buttress with a tree growing horizontally from the top on the left.

FA: Alan Hope & Gordon Talbett, 1992

12

You'll remember this.

Start: Walk uphill from the top of "Floppsy Bunnies" to a wall with an orange corner/roof at its right-hand end.

FA: Alan Hope & Gordon Talbett, 1992

13

Climb the left wall then the smooth corner crack to the top.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Floppsy Bunnies" and 10 metres left of "Disappointment" is a shallow corner with a juggy left wall.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1992

14
18 Homogenised Trad 16m

Climb the left nose of the narrow buttress immediately ledt of "Disappointment".

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence & Michael Hampton, 1993

15
16 Pasteurised Trad 16m

The right of the two aretes just left of "Disappointment".

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Tim Burke, Geoff Butcher & Chris Lawrence, 1993

16
9 Disappointment Trad 15m

An appealing name for a climb.

FA: Greg Davies & Brian Doolan, 1983

17
22 ** This Little Piggy Trad 15m

A fine line up the centre of the beautiful orange wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kieran Loughran, 1983

18
23 * Big Bad Wolf Trad 35m

More skullduggery saw Lindorff snaffling this ahead of Egerton. The fixed nut (on old cord) needs replacing before the route is attempted.

Start: Start at corner and seam just right of "This Little Piggy"

FA: Kevin lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1983

19
17 Ferrets & Fossils Trad 36m

Start up "Too Hard" then traverse left to arete at 3 metres. Up arete to finish as for "There's Something Wrong With My Arms".

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1993

20
17 Too Hard Trad 25m

Some dubious rock.

Start: Start right of "Big Bad Wolf" at a red overhang with a hand-crack on its right side.

FA: Peter Martin & Hugh Foxcroft, 1983

21

Sustained climbing up the shallow black groove and right-facing corner 4 metres right of "Too Hard". Near the top, cross a slab on the right to an abseil tree.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1983

22
17 Just Right Trad 30m

A couple of metres right of "Blast From The Past", steep hand-jamming off the ledge gives way to easy climbing.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Neil Blundy, 1983

23

The route "Spatlese" (Maddox, Armstrong)is almost certainly a repeat of this.

Start: Start 1 metre left of "Sour Grapes".

FA: Graeme Smith & Bruce Somerfield, 1990

24
17 * Sour Grapes Trad 30m

Bridging moves lead to a good jam-crack almost in the chimney corner.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Just Right" just left of a chimney-cleft.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Peter Martin, 1983

25
18 Spatlese Trad 30m
26
11 Downpour Trad 25m

Pleasant bridging up the chimney-cleft just right of "Sour Grapes" then at one-third height take the left-hand branch, finishing up the steeper corner.

FA: Peter Watling & Helen Godfrey, 1984

27
10 Too Soft Trad 40m

Meanders up the buttress right of "Downpour". Take the weakness leading right to a large ledge. Scramble up.

FA: Neil Blundy & Peter Megens, 1983

28
18 Leveret Trad 30m

Quite an attractive little thing.

Start: Start a little right of "Too Soft" at a red corner and roof.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Dave Gairns, 1983

30
19 Huff And Puff Trad 25m

A bit tricky.

FA: Mike Wust, Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1984

31

Up the shallow corner above the gap in the ledge and finish easily up the slab. Abseil from tree.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Huff And Puff" at a gap in the ledge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kieran Loughran, 1984

32

Start as for "Goodnight Mumm, Goodnight Dad" but move right to the arete. Follow the line just right of the arete to the easy upper slab.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kieran Loughran, 1984

33
20 Firma Terra Trad 20m

Follow the thin crack right of the gap in the ledge. It curves right at the top into a wider line.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Peter Martin, 1983

34

The wide crack right of "Firma Terra" has an impertinent move near the top.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Neil Blundy & Brian Doolan, 1983

35
12 Old Moll Trad 20m

Useless.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of "Masters Apprentices".

FA: Peter Megens, Greg Davies. Optional finish : Chris & Sue Baxter.., 1983

36

Up the corner and slab above to tree and abseil.

Start: Start 20 metres right of "Old Moll", on the same level, at the obvious corner with the small roof at the top.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1991

37
11 Easter Bunnies Trad 15m

Quite nice. The right-leaning crack which marks the left side of this little wall.

FA: Helen Godfrey & Peter Watling, 1984

38
21 Nursery Crime Trad 15m

The razor-like crack right of "Easter Bunnies", darting left at half-height to a break. Follow the break left to the arete and go up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1983

39
10 Buffalo Gals Trad 15m

The nice jam-crack right of "Nursery Crime"

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, 1983

40
18 Baby Bear Trad 10m

Short sharp arête to left side of small buttress about 18 metres right of Buffalo Gals and below and right of Firma Terra and Masters Apprentices. Small wires and cams are tricky but ample. Move slightly right of the arête to top out. Tree anchor. Easy walk off right.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Nha Nguyen, 2016

41

Up right leaning crack.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack 20 metres right of "Buffalo Gals".

FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1991

42
20 * Ninja Bear Trad 12m

Start in chimney right of Through The Looking Class. At 2 metres step left onto good feet. Small cams helpful. Directly up staying about 2 metres left of chimney, then slightly right to top out through overhang in order to gain good holds. Tree Anchor. Easy walk off right.

FA: Hywel Rowlands, 2016

43
20 Sneaky Bear Trad 12m

Start 3 metres right of chimney up right leaning easy rock to stance 4 metres above the ground. Use pockets to reach high into small crack then moving slightly right on slopers. Tree Anchor. Easy walk off right.

FA: Hywel Rowlands, 2016

44
10 Bumbly Bear Trad 14m

Start 8 metres of chimney through easiest line in the pancake layered rock. Climb straight until slabby rock at top of climb and walk left to tree anchor.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Nha Nguyen, 2016

45
23 Butt Medler Trad 22m

(For the Boys)

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Glenn Tempest, 1993

46

The overhanging weakness between "Big Bad Wolf" and "Too Hard", moving right to climb the left side of the arete. Finish up left-leading ramp.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1993

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