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Description

This little cliff has some excellent middle-grade climbs on fine rock. Many of the descents are by abseil from trees but this is not always mentioned in descriptions.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Head off Waterworks Track not far north of the junction with Glenelg River Road, either at the gravel pit, or go a little further north to Native Pines Creek and walk up the creek. The cliff is obvious, with two short rock tiers before the main cliff is reached.

© (kieranl)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Unberievable Trad 15m

Not too bad.

FA: Keith Egerton, Phil Wilkins, 1983

2
21 Croak And Dagger Trad 15m

Never trust a lawyer.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 1983

3
8 One Eighth Trad 12m

Further right into the alcove, right of the off-width, is a corner with twin cracks.

FA: Neil Blundy, Brian Doolan, 1983

4
10 Irky Perky Trad 15m

A bulge in the cliff 10 metres right of "One Eighth" produces some bouldery starts. This takes an arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1983

5
16 April Fools Trad 15m

Similar to the previous climb, starting by a tree to the right.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Pete Megens, 1983

6
10 Buns Trad 25m

The line just right of "April Fools" on a juggy wall. Veer right to go through a steepening and then left to the top.

FA: Neil Blundy, Brian Doolan, 1983

7
18 * Catherine Trad 18m

Quite a nice climb, somewhat spoiled by the grassy finish.

FA: Peter Megens, Hugh Foxcroft, 1983

8
15 Quakers Trad 15m

The prominent V-corner 30 metres left of the orange wall.

FA: David Gairns, Hugh Foxcroft, Miles Martin, 1983

9
13 Bananas In Pyjamas Trad 24m

Energetic moves up the foot of the arete lead to easier ground. Follow the left edge of the buttress to the top.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Quakers" at the right arete of its corner.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Alan Hope, 1992

10
9 Floppsy Bunnies Trad 21m

Climb the centre of the buttress via a very shallow corner in the upper half. There is a good abseil tree above the buttress just to the right.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Bananas In Pyjamas" is a broad grey buttress with a tree growing horizontally from the top on the left.

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett, 1992

11

You'll remember this.

Start: Walk uphill from the top of "Floppsy Bunnies" to a wall with an orange corner/roof at its right-hand end.

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett, 1992

12

Climb the left wall then the smooth corner crack to the top.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Floppsy Bunnies" and 10 metres left of "Disappointment" is a shallow corner with a juggy left wall.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Alan Hope, 1992

13
18 Homogenised Trad 16m

Climb the left nose of the narrow buttress immediately ledt of "Disappointment".

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence, Michael Hampton, 1993

14
16 Pasteurised Trad 16m

The right of the two aretes just left of "Disappointment".

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Tim Burke, Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence, 1993

15
9 Disappointment Trad 15m

An appealing name for a climb.

FA: Greg Davies, Brian Doolan, 1983

16
22 ** This Little Piggy Trad 15m

A fine line up the centre of the beautiful orange wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 1983

17
23 * Big Bad Wolf Trad 35m

More skullduggery saw Lindorff snaffling this ahead of Egerton. The fixed nut (on old cord) needs replacing before the route is attempted.

Start: Start at corner and seam just right of "This Little Piggy"

FA: Kevin lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1983

18
17 Ferrets & Fossils Trad 36m

Start up "Too Hard" then traverse left to arete at 3 metres. Up arete to finish as for "There's Something Wrong With My Arms".

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

19
17 Too Hard Trad 25m

Some dubious rock.

Start: Start right of "Big Bad Wolf" at a red overhang with a hand-crack on its right side.

FA: Peter Martin, Hugh Foxcroft, 1983

20

Sustained climbing up the shallow black groove and right-facing corner 4 metres right of "Too Hard". Near the top, cross a slab on the right to an abseil tree.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1983

21
17 Just Right Trad 30m

A couple of metres right of "Blast From The Past", steep hand-jamming off the ledge gives way to easy climbing.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Neil Blundy, 1983

22

The route "Spatlese" (Maddox, Armstrong)is almost certainly a repeat of this.

Start: Start 1 metre left of "Sour Grapes".

FA: Graeme Smith, Bruce Somerfield, 1990

23
17 * Sour Grapes Trad 30m

Bridging moves lead to a good jam-crack almost in the chimney corner.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Just Right" just left of a chimney-cleft.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, 1983

24
18 Spatlese Trad 30m
25
11 Downpour Trad 25m

Pleasant bridging up the chimney-cleft just right of "Sour Grapes" then at one-third height take the left-hand branch, finishing up the steeper corner.

FA: Peter Watling, Helen Godfrey, 1984

26
10 Too Soft Trad 40m

Meanders up the buttress right of "Downpour". Take the weakness leading right to a large ledge. Scramble up.

FA: Neil Blundy, Peter Megens, 1983

27
18 Leveret Trad 30m

Quite an attractive little thing.

Start: Start a little right of "Too Soft" at a red corner and roof.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Dave Gairns, 1983

29
19 Huff And Puff Trad 25m

A bit tricky.

FA: Mike Wust, Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff, 1984

30

Up the shallow corner above the gap in the ledge and finish easily up the slab. Abseil from tree.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Huff And Puff" at a gap in the ledge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 1984

31

Start as for "Goodnight Mumm, Goodnight Dad" but move right to the arete. Follow the line just right of the arete to the easy upper slab.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 1984

32
20 Firma Terra Trad 20m

Follow the thin crack right of the gap in the ledge. It curves right at the top into a wider line.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, 1983

33

The wide crack right of "Firma Terra" has an impertinent move near the top.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Neil Blundy, Brian Doolan, 1983

34
12 Old Moll Trad 20m

Useless.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of "Masters Apprentices".

FA: Peter Megens, Greg Davies. Optional finish : Chris and Sue Baxter.., 1983

35

Up the corner and slab above to tree and abseil.

Start: Start 20 metres right of "Old Moll", on the same level, at the obvious corner with the small roof at the top.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke, 1991

36
11 Easter Bunnies Trad 15m

Quite nice. The right-leaning crack which marks the left side of this little wall.

FA: Helen Godfrey, Peter Watling, 1984

37
21 Nursery Crime Trad 15m

The razor-like crack right of "Easter Bunnies", darting left at half-height to a break. Follow the break left to the arete and go up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1983

38
10 Buffalo Gals Trad 15m

The nice jam-crack right of "Nursery Crime"

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, 1983

39

Up crack to disconcerting grassy exit.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack 20 metres right of "Buffalo Gals".

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke, 1991

40
23 Butt Medler Trad 22m

(For the Boys)

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Glenn Tempest, 1993

41

The overhanging weakness between "Big Bad Wolf" and "Too Hard", moving right to climb the left side of the arete. Finish up left-leading ramp.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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