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Description

This shady large face has some very unique and sustained routes up remarkable grey rock in a similar, but easier style to nearby 'Eureka Wall'. Many of the routes feel like extended gritstone classics (but with better protection!).

Bring a spare rope for descent off the longer routes. A full trad rack should be carried, including some larger cams. Don't forget the bolt plates!

The cliff comes into the shade quite early in the morning, and stays that way for the rest of the day. Perfect in summer, miserable and wet in winter.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Eureka Area

If the gate on the track is locked or signed as "Closed" then the track is CLOSED. Please do not drive around the gate. Driving on closed roads endangers access. Approach from Matthew Track if that is open, face a longer walk or climb elsewhere.

©

Approach

Follow the Jananginj Jawi track for 4 km. at the clearing before the old gate, go uphill on old track to caged Aboriginal art site of Jananginj Jawi. The track from here has virtually disappear with fires, floods and disuse, so bushbash right along base of cliff for 200m until the cliff breaks down a creek runs down the gully. The intricacies of the guidebook described track no longer exist, so basically follow the creek line up. The cairns are few and far between. Bushbashing across the cliff is tedious enough that it might be worth just following the creek up from where you cross it on the Jananginj Jawi track. You can see the east facing cliff on the right side of this gully from the track. Guidebook time might reflect what it took when the track was clear, allow 45-60 minutes for the vegetated experience.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Orange slab split by thin seam and a great overhung finish. Located on separate buttress 100m left of the second short rock wall you reach on the walk up to the main cliff of 'Gondwanaland'. Bouldery start (RB) then right leading weakness to seam. Up this for 10m then skirt under orange roof and then thug back left across overhang to crux finish. Lower off last bolt or trad belay on ledge and epic walk-down descent. Four bolts plus natural gear to finger crack size. Really needs a lower-off anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Monique Forestier & Simon Carter, 2003

bold face climb on jugs

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2003

Ninety degree sharp arete with clean wall on right side about 40m right of 'Terra Incognita'. A short corner crack is climbed to a little ledge on the left, then launch up the pocketed arete with some fiddly pro. The final ten metres is jug city. 'Small' to medium gear and slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Michael Boniwell, 2003

Start at the right leading ramp left of the prow. Up ramp easily then left. Up vertical wall on pockets, then easier climbing to crack system up headwall, finishing up overhanging crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1990

Starts as for 'Gibber'. (1) 30m Up ramp then obvious flake crack. Continue up wall to stance. (2) 20m Up main groove to finish directly up headwall.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood (alts) & Norm Booth, 1991

Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1990

A major cliff and pants splitting line. Start at top of ramp right of 'Gibber' and 'Face the Dissection'. Weave your way up and right, till tricky moves left allow you to gain the base of the crack. Blast up the widening crack past some slightly dodgy rock in places, but loads of good gear, till easier ground and finally a chain anchor is reached. Take a full rack including lots of big gear. Steve Holloway had his eye on this in '02 and added the rap chain, but never got his act together to actually climb it.

FFA: adam demmert, 2007

FA: Adam Demmert, 2007

Possibly Nick's finest new route? A long intricate and techincal wall with an exposed finish.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Montieth, 2002

Magic pocket pulling sport route on immaculate rock. Would be amazing if longer. Starts 50m left of 'Gibber'. White pockets through bulge leads to spaced heucos on face. At third BR head right to BR then up juggy corner to rap chain. Keep an eye out for the bolts on the upper wall, they can be easy to miss!

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

At second BR traverse directly right on small pockets and little else. When your feet refuse to stay on, clip a BR then crank like crazy to gain monster pockets. Finish as for original line past last BR.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2002

Leftwards leading easy pocketed corner just left 'Wild Iris'. At top of corner place wires in thin crack then swing out right desperatly onto arete and easily up this to natural; belay stance. Another pitch above on super jugs leads to top and walk off. Needs a lower-off.

FA: Steve Holloway

The direct start to 'Faceless' past several RBs. Very long intricate face climbing. Be wary of long runout in the middle. One of Neil's longest ever sieges.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

thin face

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

Starts 30m left of 'Wild Iris'. In the middle of the wall is several cracklines; this climbs the furthest right one, approx in the middle of the wall. Absorbing rounded holds and the steep angle keep you guessing right until the end. The gear is abundant but fiddly in shallow, scoopy cracks. Rap anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

Line 2m left of 'Picking Plums'. Similar sustained climbing up rounded cracks, but the rock is a little less perfect. Bring plenty of big cams. Traverse off right to chain or belay from natural bollards at top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

This route is at ground level somewhere left of previous route. It has a left trending traverse under a roof, and splitter hand crack / left facing flake emerging from the left side of this roof. The start involves pulling on grass tufts!

FA: Neil Montetih, 2004

Easy angled black hand crack corner 50m left of 'Gibber'. Second pitch climbs juggy face above. Not recommended.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

This area is around 3-400m uphill of the existing routes, approach is by a short, loose and dirty corner. Up to high point in narrow gully to see the obvious thin ridgeline which looks somewhat like a dragon's back. This route starts on the left wall, at a point where there is an obvious horizontal break.

  1. 10m (8) Traverse along this (right) for 10m to belay below orange corner.

  2. 25m (17) Up delicately with good gear and good holds just watch the rock quality. Take your time and you will be fine.

  3. 30m (17) Continue up and left to pass massive cave on its right, both gear and holds thin out in the middle of this pitch. Belay about level with the top of the cave.

  4. 25m (12) Easily up to top. Scramble off just before the top of the pinnacle, to the south side, heading east through narrow gully. Retrace your path to the beginning.

FA: Joe Goding & Stephen Holloway, 2003

Start 3-4m right of arete about 20m uphill from 'Pineapple'. Up for 4m, right a little, then pretty much straight up. Wall is deceptively steep with good holds and gear. Scramble up right (looking out) to rap from sling around good bollard.

FA: Nina Cullen & Steve Holloway, 2003

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