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Summary

A pleasant north facing series of walls reminiscent of Gilhams Crags. Most of the routes are vertical and require wigglies. A few bolts exist on some of the harder faces but this is the exception. The wall blazes in the sun all day long. Avoid in summer.

Description

A cruisy 30min walk will get you to the crags. All routes are described right to left when facing the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Slick and sustained Arapiles style line.

The central line of the middle buttress.

Leap for jug from rock cairn (FH), then up short face to fingercrack. Up this for 6m to slight stance. Swing right across awkward bulging face (FH) to below final seam. Up this which eases to jugs and lower-off anchor. Bring a full rack and some slings to extend runners in the traverse,

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

Climb the crack left of the left arete.

FA: Neil Barr & Craig Nottle, 1980

Climbs the left leaning dog-legged crack that goes up the middle of the orange wall (left of the major orange wall). Scramble up the easy slab to the belay ledge just below the major crack. Climb the corner/crack to the horizontal break. Traverse left one metre and then climb the crack above to a tricky mantle onto a dirty ledge. Climb the deep crack/chimney above to the top.

FA: Peter Darby & Graham Saunders, 1980

Best route at the crag.

Start: Start as for May Day. At May Day's traverse left continue straight up corner and start of head wall past three BR's to break, #3 camalot, then continue past one more BR (hard clip) to run it out to the top (possible wires).

FA: Adam Demmert & Alastair Hudson, 2005

An atmospheric adventure up the left side of the main wall with a fair bit of loose rock in the upper half. Start behind the conifer 5m R of 'Napalm Sunday'. Up the grey slab then follow easy ramp L to steep orange cracks and through small roof. 'Excellent' view.

FA: Steve Chapman & Kaz Anwin, 2005

Starts 3m left of Ralph's Journey on right side of cleft separating right and left walls. Climb the right side of the cleft to the top.

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

Top roped only. Rob has drilled the holes, but no bolts as yet as he ran out of daylight. Starts 4 meters right of 'Burnt Out' behind the detached small

pillar. A few big moves on sketchy feet to nice climbing on the leftward leaning upside-down staircase.

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

Sustained with sinker wires. Start behind clump of callitris 5m right of cleft seperating right and left walls. Bouldery start past FH to gain crack proper. Up on good finger locks to horizontal break.Traverse right 3m then up over bulges.

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, Adam Demmert & Jackie Bernardi, 2005

Start on ledge under the beautiful but too short orange corner. Left under roof and on up to the top.

Start: 10m up and left of 'Flying Possum'.

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

Great climbing on excellent rock. Starts 3m right of blunt arête. Boulder start to gain crack (protected with a good, shallow wire at full stretch). Bomber gear and sustained climbing to below roof. Committing pull past bulge via crimps in the black streak to good #2 camalot placement.

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly & Robin Holmes, 2004

Starts 6m left of Battling the Bulge. Climb the prominent right leading corner to FH. A strenuous right rising traverse past a 2nd FH brings a jug to hand and a cramped rest. Move left and climb tricky crack to rap rings.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2000

Start 3m L of 'Napalm Sunday'. Up crack then step L at second horizontal then up loose shallow corner.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2004

Starts 15m L of 'Flying Possum'. Nice short face climb. #3 wire in sideways protects crux. Go up.

FA: Steve Chapman, Ross Timms & Tuesday Phelan, 2005

Starts 3m L of GWHHR. Up over bulge to a long reach from undercling. Alternatively pike left into easy going at 5m or why not just walk around the back.

FA: Steve Chapman & Ross Timms, 2005

Start 5m R of 'Elle McFerret' at termite nest. Bouldery start past fixed wire to crack. Crack to finish. Note: Start can be aided to give sustained crack climbing at about 24.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2004

Crack?

FA: Tuesday Phelan & Anne Redfern, 2005

A fine route marred slightly by a fragile exit. Starts 2m left of blunt arête at left end of first wall. Follow twin cracks to good holds and gear at steepening. Committing climbing to ledge. Step right to belay and rap anchors. Initial escape was off right past dodgy tree and above. Alternatively up big chimney.

FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2004

Climb the crack with difficulty to the ledge. Climb over the bulging buttress and the short corner above to the ledge. Organise protection and then traverse left one metre to the arête. This is the right arête of the major orange wall. Climb the arête in a fabulous position to the next ledge. Finish up the crack above, or the arête on the left. Belay on the large ledge. Scramble up to the top and down climb the pinnacle at the back.

Start: Starts at the short splitter finger crack on the small wall just right of the major orange wall.

FA: Michael O'Reilly & Ross Timms, 2004

Activity

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