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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
26 ** Battling The Bulge Trad 17m

Slick and sustained 'Arapiles' style line.

Start: The central line of the middle buttress.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

2
14 Napalm Sunday Trad 20m

Climb the crack left of the left arete.

FA: Neil Barr & Craig Nottle, 1980

3
18 Mayday Trad 30m

Climbs the left leaning dog-legged crack that goes up the middle of the orange wall (left of the major orange wall). Scramble up the easy slab to the belay ledge just below the major crack. Climb the corner/crack to the horizontal break. Traverse left one metre and then climb the crack above to a tricky mantle onto a dirty ledge. Climb the deep crack/chimney above to the top.

FA: Peter Darby & Graham Saunders, 1980

4
19 * Rock Lobster Trad 28m

An appealing finger crack.

Start: Located on the far left end of the wall (20m left of Wonga Park). It can be difficult to reach when the water is up.

  1. 18m (19) Climb the overhanging finger crack and traverse left to a ledge.

  2. 10m (14) Easily up corner.

FA: Craig Nottle, Peter Cunningham & Neil Barr, 1980

5
16 Wonga Park R.F.B. Trad 20m

The line 20m right of 'Rock Lobster', just beyond the overhangs. Mantleshelf to get started.

FA: Ian Barr, Neil Barr, Peter Darby & Grahams Sanders, 1980

6
23 ** Burnt Out Trad 17m

Best route at the crag.

Start: Start as for May Day. At May Day's traverse left continue straight up corner and start of head wall past three BR's to break, #3 camalot, then continue past one more BR (hard clip) to run it out to the top (possible wires).

FA: Adam Demmert & Alastair Hudson, 2005

7
16 Kazual Trad 40m

An atmospheric adventure up the left side of the main wall with a fair bit of loose rock in the upper half. Start behind the conifer 5m R of 'Napalm Sunday'. Up the grey slab then follow easy ramp L to steep orange cracks and through small roof. 'Excellent' view.

FA: Steve Chapman & Kaz Anwin, 2005

8

Starts 3m left of Ralph's Journey on right side of cleft separating right and left walls. Climb the right side of the cleft to the top.

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

9

Top roped only. Rob has drilled the holes, but no bolts as yet as he ran out of daylight. Starts 4 meters right of 'Burnt Out' behind the detached small

pillar. A few big moves on sketchy feet to nice climbing on the leftward leaning upside-down staircase.

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

10
24 * Ralph's Journey Trad 16m

Sustained with sinker wires.

Start: Start behind clump of callitris 5m right of cleft seperating right and left walls.

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, Adam Demmert & Jackie Bernardi, 2005

11
22 Where’s Mum? Trad 10m

Start as for LBDO. At 2m traverse left to RB. Crank up right to jugs and wire. Easier climbing to top.

FA: Steve Chapman & Kaz Anwin, 2005

12
18 Baby Bum Trad 12m

Starts 8m L of 'The Crib'. Up horizontal bulges to seam. Up this to top.

FA: Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman & Michael O'Reilly, 2004

13
19 Poets Corner Trad 14m

Start on ledge under the beautiful but too short orange corner. Left under roof and on up to the top.

Start: 10m up and left of 'Flying Possum'.

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

14
24 ** Elle McFerret Trad 18m

Great climbing on excellent rock. Starts 3m right of blunt arête. Boulder start to gain crack (protected with a good, shallow wire at full stretch). Bomber gear and sustained climbing to below roof. Committing pull past bulge via crimps in the black streak to good #2 camalot placement.

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly & Robin Holmes, 2004

15
26 ** Klytus Trad 17m

Starts 6m left of Battling the Bulge. Climb the prominent right leading corner to FH. A strenuous right rising traverse past a 2nd FH brings a jug to hand and a cramped rest. Move left and climb tricky crack to rap rings.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2000

16
21 R Flying Possum Trad 20m

Start 3m L of 'Napalm Sunday'. Up crack then step L at second horizontal then up loose shallow corner.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2004

17

Starts 15m L of 'Flying Possum'. Nice short face climb. #3 wire in sideways protects crux. Go up.

FA: Steve Chapman, Ross Timms, Tuesday Phelan, 2005

18
22 The Crib Trad 10m

Starts 4m L of Where's Mum? at RB. Bouldery start just R of bolt. Right to Where's Mum?'s bolt, back left on jugs to crib. Have a lie down and cry, then up easily.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2005

19
23 Alex Flashdance Trad 8m

Starts 3m L of GWHHR. Up over bulge to a long reach from undercling. Alternatively pike left into easy going at 5m or why not just walk around the back.

FA: Steve Chapman & Ross Timms, 2005

20

Boulder up to horizontal. Step R into the finger crack and up.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2004

21
25 * Ants Pants Trad 15m

Start 5m R of 'Elle McFerret' at termite nest. Bouldery start past fixed wire to crack. Crack to finish. Note: Start can be aided to give sustained crack climbing at about 24.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2004

22
15 Filthy Girls Trad 8m

Crack?

FA: Tuesday Phelan & Anne Redfern, 2005

23
22 * Celebrity Rooter Trad 20m

A fine route marred slightly by a fragile exit. Starts 2m left of blunt arête at left end of first wall. Follow twin cracks to good holds and gear at steepening. Committing climbing to ledge. Step right to belay and rap anchors. Initial escape was off right past dodgy tree and above. Alternatively up big chimney.

FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2004

24
19 * The Lying Rodent Trad 22m

Climb the crack with difficulty to the ledge. Climb over the bulging buttress and the short corner above to the ledge. Organise protection and then traverse left one metre to the arête. This is the right arête of the major orange wall. Climb the arête in a fabulous position to the next ledge. Finish up the crack above, or the arête on the left. Belay on the large ledge. Scramble up to the top and down climb the pinnacle at the back.

Start: Starts at the short splitter finger crack on the small wall just right of the major orange wall.

FA: Michael O'Reilly & Ross Timms, 2004

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