Crag Guide for Grampians

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Grampians 6,993 routes in Crag

1274365

1 North Grampians, 2 The Black Range, 3 Central Grampians, 4 Halls Gap Area, 5 South-Eastern Grampians, 6 Victoria Range, 7 Black Range Granite (near Stawell)

seasonality

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.376338, -37.265302

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some of the best climbing in a Australia in a beautiful environment, often in great solitude.

Description:

For many climbers, memories of the Grampians are like memories of paradise. The warm winter sun, breathtaking sunsets lighting up Taipan Wall and sore tips from hard days. The Grampians are beautiful and the climbing reflects this. The solitude, routes that offer variety and adventure, these are the hallmarks of the Grampians.

The Grampians offer some of the most spectacular and high quality climbing in Australia. The beautiful thing about the Grampians is that it offers so much choice, there is plenty of good easier climbing in fantastic locations, and also probably the best hard routes in the land. When you talk about climbing in the Grampians you are referring to a multitude of crags and thousands of routes. There are a core of popular crags regularly visited, then there are a host of areas that are lucky to be visited more than once a year. The most popular crags are the ones with a combination of good access and a large amount of top routes. Among the most popular areas are 'Mt Stapylton' (which incorporates a number of crags like the enormously popular 'Summerday Valley', 'The Ampitheatre' and 'Taipan Wall'), 'Mt Rosea' (loads of quality multipitch routes) and 'Bundaleer' (an intimidating summer crag). Apart from this there is a plethora of marginally less important crags, all of which offer fantastic climbing.

Sport climbing is limited in the Grampians (although what there is, is of fantastic quality), there are three or four main areas, 'The Gallery' (steep thuggery of perfect orange sandstone), 'Millenium Caves' (very steep flawless rock with committing runouts), 'Van Diemens Land' (great fun) and 'Spurt Wall' (funky fun at the end of 'Taipan Wall'). Sport climbing in the Grampians begins at grade 22, so you want to be fairly competent.

Like Arapiles the trad climbing is very good, and generally the gear is exceptionally solid, there is often the occasional bolt. The harder routes to tend to be mainly on bolts. While you are here it is essential to check out Taipan Wall, unquestionably the best piece of rock in the land.

Climbing in the Grampians is generally less accessible than Arapiles, you will need to have a partner (there is no meeting someone here, unless you are lucky) and a car to get around in. The one benefit of being less accessible is that the Grampians is more of a wilderness experience. Bouldering has recently exploded in the Grampians, and there are loads of great problems to be found, including some of the hardest in the world. Bouldering is a good option if you are here in winter. All up the Grampians is a wonderful place, deserving of a decent stay. You will love it!

Access Issues:

National Park

Approach:

235km west of Melbourne. Driving is best. You can catch a train to Ballarat, then bus to Halls Gap. The only problem is that once you are there there is no way to get around unless you hire a car, or know someone that has one.

Where To Stay:

There are campgrounds throughout the Grampians. Most do have fees, but they are generally very reasonable.

Also a range of accommodation (cabins, B&B, backpackers, motels, etc) in Halls Gap and the other villages around the National Park.

1.1. North Grampians 2,576 routes in Crag

3546211314128971011

1 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre, 2 Flat Rock, 3 Mount Zero, 4 Iskra Crag, 5 Summerday Valley, 6 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton), 7 North-West Mt Difficult Range, 8 The Rockwall Area, 9 Briggs Bluff Area, 10 Eastern Mt Difficult Range, 11 Asses Ears Area, 12 Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area, 13 NE Mt Zero Range, 14 Mt Stapylton Campground

Summary:

Trad,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.408143, -37.055512

1.1.1. Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre 428 routes in Crag

12341311569710815

1 Northern Wall, 2 Central Buttress, 3 Sabre Gully, 4 Grey and Green Walls, 5 Taipan Wall, 6 Spurt Wall, 7 Bouldering Buttress, 8 Lower Taipan, 9 Afterglow Wall, 10 The Plaza Strip, 11 Trackside Boulders, 13 Ground Control Caves, 15 Between the Sheeps

Summary:

Trad,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.386813, -36.898766

Description:© (nmonteith)

Much of this guide is based on Kieran Loughran's wonderful Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre print guide (1996). It has been updated by Neil Monteith and friends (2005-2007).

One of Australia's premier areas. A high concentration of quality routes of every variety. 'Taipan Wall' is world renowned for offering some of the most amazing steep orange sandstone routes around. The bouldering is also very popular.

Useful Info: Much of this guide is based on Kieran Loughran's wonderful Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre print guide (1996).

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Mount Stapylton is at the northern tip of the Grampians(Gariwerd), 30km south-east of Horsham. Train and bus services can get you to Horsham from 'Adelaide' or 'Melbourne' but after that you are on your own.

'Access' by car is easy. All but the last 4km is on sealed road and the unsealed road is negotiable in all weather conditions but care must be taken with corrugations, suicidal marsupials, emus and feral tourists. Hitching is not a good option because you'll probably have to walk a few kilometres and end up isolated in an empty camp-ground a long way from anything.

From 'Melbourne', follow the Western 'Highway' towards Horsham, passing through Ararat, Stawell and Dadswell's Bridge, until you're 11km past Dadswell's Bridge and just after the 269km post. Turn left and continue for 6½km, turn left (signpost Mt Zero) onto a dirt road. After 1.2km turn right (signposts Flat Rock 2.5, Mt Zero 1) and follow the road for 2½km to the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area.

From Horsham, follow the Western 'Highway' towards 'Melbourne' for 19km, 4km

past Green Lake, turn right (signpost to Laharum). Follow the road south for 8km, turn left (signpost Flat Rock 6), after 3 km turn right (signpost Mt Zero) onto a dirt road. After 1.2km turn right (signposts Flat Rock 2.5, Mt Zero 1) and follow the road for 2½km to the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area.

The lone visitor can normally find climbers in the carpark at 'Hollow Mountain' on any weekend...but not always! During the week you may get lucky but are more likely to strike youth groups and corporate team-builders. If you have no organised partner, your best option is to go to Mount 'Arapiles' first to make some contacts.

History:© (nmonteith)

While the Amphitheatre is one of the important climbing areas in 'Victoria', development has been sporadic.

When the area was discovered in the mid-sixties there was an intense period of development that culminated in one of the most intense months in Victorian climbing history.

In the four weeks from 23rd April to 18th May 1966, Mike Stone, Ian Guild, Chris Dewhirst and Gary Kerkin put up 'Spillway', 'Simpleton' and Seventh Pillar. In that same month this group, minus Gary Kerkin but with John Moore also added 'Scorpion' and 'Skink' at 'Arapiles'. These were the hardest, most serious climbs around, done in one brief period by a small group.

It's hard to appreciate what it was like in the sixties. Even in the mid-70s it was possible to arrive at 'Arapiles' on a mild summer weekend and find only five people there. 'Arapiles' was popular, Stapylton was not and, with the sixties, we are talking a decade earlier: we are talking isolation.

Contemplate placing the bolt runner on 'Simpleton', jamming your head in the crack to free both hands for drilling, or climbing hand-over-hand up a knotted rope to regain the first belay of Seventh Pillar or standing around in hard rubber while hand-drilling the bolts on Spillway? It's quite sobering.

Things were pretty quiet in the early seventies. Andrew Thomson added some aesthetic(?) bolt-laddders to 'Lower Taipan Wall' and combined with Kim Carrigan to free 'Clicke Crack' and dramatically reduce the aid on Seventh Pillar. Dave Mudie freed 'Simpleton' and contributed Seventh Banana to 'Taipan Wall'. John Chapman freed 'Spillway'.

Thomson and Carrigan's one-day ascent of Seventh Pillar in 1975 was no great shakes by the standards of the day. That is in theory. In reality this climb had people intimidated. The general steepness and atmosphere clobber aspirants to the present day. It was an indication of things to come from Carrigan.

Glenn Tempest and Kevin Lindorff had a spree in the Amphitheatre in April and May of 1977. They didn't break new ground in terms of grades but, in two weekends, they brought Stapylton into the modern era. 'Benn Gunn' and 'Asterisk' free, 'Starstruck', 'Technical Ecstasy', 'Sweet Dreams' and 'Atomic Tadpole' seemed to open the gateway, but it was not to be. Why? Because they weren't into rap-bolting or inspection in those days and obvious protectable climbs were exhausted.

At this time abseil bolting of routes was not common. Abseil bolting first appeared in 'Victoria' at Hanging Rock in the late sixties and did not catch on. Andrew Thomson reintroduced the concept when he did 'Swinging' at 'Arapiles' in April 1976 and it was quite controversial. When Tempest and Lindorff did their routes in the Amphitheatre, they were rejecting the use of chalk as unethical, let alone rap-bolting! This looks funny now, but it was taken quite seriously at the time. I suppose it has shades of British mountaineering in the thirties when crampons were rejected as unethical. Anyhow, Tempest and Lindorff set a new standard at the crag and then left it. Curiously, when Lindorff revisited Stapylton in the early eighties with a revised bolting ethic, he ignored his old stamping-ground in favour of Summer Day Valley.

At the start of the Eighties, Carrigan and I crossed from Summer Day Valley to The Amphitheatre to cut Seventh Pillar to one aid point (Carrigan did the work and dragged me up after him). At the end of the day we walked the length of 'Taipan Wall' and could see no more free propositions; quite hilarious in retrospect. I don't suppose Kim was having me on?

Anyhow, among other things, Carrigan put up 'The Great Divide', Matheson did 'Serpentine', Monks freed Seventh Banana and Pollitt did every climb on the wall as well as adding Rage, the direct version of 'Serpentine'.

'Taipan Wall' is far and away the highlight, but much of the rest is also deserving of your attention. Enjoy.

1.1.1.1. Northern Wall 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.382153, -36.892992

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The Northern Walls offer a wide variety of climbs with a few being outstanding. While some of the cliffs do not look particularly attractive at first sight, don't let that put you off. These steep walls offer good wall climbing and a couple of weird grooves. There's not a bad climb here, but some are quite unusual and not to everyone's taste. Whatever else you do, don't miss out on 'Trident'.

The cliffs are shaded much of the time but get sun on summer mornings (as shown in the topo below, taken at 8:30 AM). It's a good spot for mild to warm days but it is quite sheltered so can get humid and sticky.

Approach:© (willmonks)

This is the line of cliffs on the Northern extremity of the Amphitheatre, being the southern side of Wudjub Guyan (Hollow Mountain). The left side is above 'Epsilon Wall' and eventually becomes Kindergarden at the far left (West) end. The right side terminates at the major gully which separates the Northern Walls from 'Central Buttress'. 'Access' by walking into the Amphitheatre for about 150m past 'Epsilon Wall', then taking a well trodden sandy track up left towards 'Central Buttress', then walking back left along the base. The Northern Walls can also be accessed via Kindergarden, but this is slower, has scrambly bits and is verging on bushbashing at times.

The best descent from climbs in this area is by abseil. Two ropes are usually required. In the past the main descent, was a 40 metre abseil from the tree above Zola. The chain has been removed to prevent damage to the tree from ringbarking and climber movement around the tree. An anchor left of 'Trident' serves the climbs in that area (35m). There is another anchor at the top of 'Germinal' (30m)

The major gully to the right of the Northern Walls does not deserve it's title of Amphitheatre Descent 'Gully' because it is highly dangerous and 100% NOT recommended. Originally noted by the Gledhills as being "dangerous at night", this gully is dangerous even in broad daylight and fine weather!! It is often wet and features awkward chimneys, greasy slabby sections and difficult sections with dangerous landings. In recent years, broken glass has become a real hazard. There are few abseil anchors and it is not possible to abseil the gully in one rope length. At least one accident in this gully has resulted in serious head injuries. In short, it's far better to traverse from the top of your route of choice to one of the numerous abseil anchors.

In a break with tradition from previously published guidebooks, climbs below are described from RIGHT to LEFT - after all, this is how you approach them. Your first good reference point is the major splitter line of 'Germinal', just L of the big gully.

1.1.1.2. Central Buttress 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.383756, -36.893250

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

'Central Buttress' is the big somewhat scrappy looking area extending right from the Amphitheatre 'Gully', until the cliffline breaks down into a gully before the Grey & Green Walls. It offers a wide variety of climbs with a few outstanding classics. While some of the cliffs do not look particularly attractive at first sight, don't let that put you off. The highlight of this area, and the best section of the entire Amphitheatre apart from 'Taipan Wall', is the recess containing 'Simpleton', 'Missing' and 'Technical Ecstasy'.

'Central Buttress' is in the shade until early afternoon. 'Simpleton' gets sun only on summer evenings. An early start on a hot day can see you up a good climb before the heat of the afternoon. The climbs left of 'Simpleton' appear grey and amorphous but are generally quite steep and more difficult than appearances suggest.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the walking track from Flat Rock down into the Amphitheatre for about 150m past 'Epsilon Wall', avoiding any right-hand turns. Follow a faint pad on the left to soon arrive below the Amphitheatre 'Gully'. 'Central Buttress' extends from here to your right.

Descent: Descend via the abseil near 'Simpleton' or the 'Hollow Mountain' walking track towards Summer Day Valley (return into the Amphitheatre is then possible by walking beneath Amnesty, Clicke, Kindergarden and Northern Walls areas). Avoid the horrible dangerous Amphitheatre 'Gully' (which I refuse to call by its traditional name of "the descent gully"!). Parties with novice climbers are strongly advised to use the walking track for descent.

'Simpleton' Abseil Route: This is the only abseil descent from this area, and allows the awful Amphitheatre 'Gully' to be avoided, but it has its own hazards. If you have two 50m ropes, you need to use the old anchors: from the top of 'Simpleton' (near a lonely 4m pine tree), move out to the front of the cliff and scramble down 5 metres to the chains, the scramble is fairly easy but very exposed - one snapped hold or foot slip and you're facing a death fall. If in doubt, keep the rope on. Have slings ready to clip into the anchors, which are now worryingly rusty. It is a 50 metre abseil, and the first 40 metres are free hanging. Abseil ends on long ledge at the base of 'Missing'. Either scramble down the initial slabs of 'Technical Ecstasy' or do a further short abseil from trees. If you take novices on this descent (not recommended) you must be able to rescue them if they get stuck on the long free abseil section. On a pragmatic note, remember that belaying a novice on descent can take just as long as simply walking off.

In May '09 a new anchor was added at the top of the 'Simpleton' corner, and this can be accessed much less dangerously than the original anchor because you don't need to do the scary 5m downclimb. To use this new anchor you need two 60m ropes.

Climbs are described from left to right.

1.1.1.3. Sabre Gully 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Long/Lat: 142.384617, -36.893743

1.1.1.4. Grey and Green Walls 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.385229, -36.894367

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The great slabby walls left of 'Taipan Wall' are The 'Grey and Green Walls'. The smooth grey buttress on the left is, of course, 'The Grey Wall' while the mossy slab to the right is 'The Green Wall'. A smooth 15-20 metre high wall, the 'Petite Fleur' Face, runs along the foot of the cliffs.

There is a lot of good climbing on these walls, but many of the climbs aren't consistent. For instance, 'Sluice' has only two metres of grade 18 climbing in close to 100 metres. The original climbs are described but are sometimes included in composite climbs that are much more worthwhile. The contribution of the pioneers is not discarded but incorporated and acknowledged in more enjoyable climbs.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Access this area by traversing the base of the cliffs either from the right end of 'Central Buttress' or from the left end of 'Taipan'.

The safest descent from the longer climbs is to walk south along the cliff-tops to meet the walking track to the top of Mt Stapylton and follow this track back into The Amphitheatre. Parties with novices are strongly advised to use this descent.

Alternatively, if you have two ropes, use the abseil descent down 'Navarre' which is 2 long (45-50m) abseils. This is difficult to locate from above unless you already know where it is. Novices will require supervision on this abseil. The first abseil is about 10 metres below the top, just left of a large cave. The first abseil is free hanging at times and you need to veer to abseiler's right so as to land on the terrace at the top of the first pitch of 'Navarre'.

Finally, the 'Hollow Mountain' walking trail can be gained by walking and scrambling north along the tops, which makes for quite a fun adventure though some may want to rope up for some of the chasm crossings.

'Petite Fleur' Face is described first, then the Grey Wall, then the Green Wall. The climbs in each sub-area are described from left to right.

1.1.1.5. Taipan Wall 86 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 142.385454, -36.896140

Description:© (willmonks)

(a) Before you leave the car, please try to poo in the toilets at Flat Rock car park; and

(b) if you need to poo while at the crag (which should be rare if you adhere to (a)!), then please walk at least 50m (no, 10m from the base of the crag is NOT ok!) and make sure you bury your poo and paper.

(c) do not burn your paper. Visiting Americans and Euros bringing this practice with them start bushfires all too often - the Australian bush is highly flammable!

It's a shame we have to start with the above, but unfortunately the popularity of this great crag is having some side effects caused by those who are happy to shit in their own nest. Don't stuff it for the rest of us!

Now onto the good news. 'Taipan Wall' is widely considered to be the best single crag in 'Australia', and many climbers consider that it ranks up there amongst the very best crags in the world. It is certainly the most outstanding climbing feature of the Grampians: a 200m long, overhanging wall up to 60 metres high, which positively glows a stunning orange in the evening sunshine. And the wall doesn't only have good looks: the climbs themselves are almost all of incredibly high quality. While a number of climbs unfortunately require a bolt for aid or have a crux move that is grades harder than anything else on the climb, the climbs are nevertheless generally magnificent.

Because of the uniformly excellent quality of the climbing, previous guides have used "Taipan stars", which effectively involved deducting a star from most routes and only giving 3 stars to those particularly sublime routes which push for the mythical 4th star! In a break with that tradition, this guide gives stars wherever they're deserved - and 'Taipan' deserves plenty! To help you work out what is the absolute cream of the crop, look out for the group of "Taipan's Top 5": Daedalus, Cardigan St (pitch 2), 'Feather Boa', 'Serpentine', and 'World Party' (pitch 3). It could have also been a "Top 7" because Mr Joshua and 'The Seventh Pillar' are right up there too.

Despite a reputation of being largely inaccessible to moderate climbers, the truth is that if you climb in the low 20s there are many days' worth of truly fantastic climbing to be had. In this regard it is worth remembering that, at times when difficult multi-pitch routes are all a bit too much, many of the hard classics have excellent easier first pitches. In particular, the following pitches are highly recommended, and have rap anchors:

'Sordid Orchids' p1 (** 20m 25);

Seventh Banana p1 (** 20m 23);

~Sirocco p1 (* 20m 21);

'Medusa' p1 (* 40m 25);

~Seventh Pillar LHV (* 45m 23);

Seventh Pillar LHV (short version) (* 28m 22);

~Serpentine p1 (* 35m 24);

Naja p1 (** 30m 27);

'World Party' p1 (* 20m 21);

Mr Joshua p1 (* 30m 25);

~Kaa p1 (20m 23).

(The ~ symbol indicates pitches which must be seconded because they traverse too much to allow rap-cleaning).

Note that a 60m rope is required to lower off many routes, and longer ropes are often very handy. A 100m rope has even been used to work Father O from the ground! In any event, you often need every metre of your rope to lower off, and you're often trying to land on a ledge, so there is a real chance of ending up dangling in space or worse. Take careful note of the rap length and pitch length information provided against each route, and tie a knot in the end of your rope.

Because most routes have slopers and/or smooth holds, bear in mind that temperature and humidity conditions have a strong bearing on route difficulty. The wall has shade until 1-2pm so generally speaking, depending on the forecast daily maximum temperature, you should plan as follows:

>35C: climb elsewhere

28-35C: make a very early start and expect to be roasted off by noon

23-27C: exploit the mornings, but may be ok to carry on in the afternoon sun

17-22C: prime 'Taipan' conditions. Go hard!

<17C: Morning shade will be cold, afternoon sunshine will be glorious, although limited to only a few hours in winter.

'Taipan' is a good venue on days of light showers, but is not great if it really rains. Despite the large areas of always-dry orange rock, the grey & black lichen streaks will seep. The black streaks can develop a surprisingly strong trickle if there's been decent rainfall, due to the fairly large slabs above which drain down these lines. Also, despite the majority of the crag being overhung, the prevailing southwest winds tend to bring rain into the base onto packs and belayers. Plus, if its anything more than passing showers then the humidity will make all the slopers seem harder to hold on to! And don't count on a retreat to 'Spurt Wall' - despite the huge rooves protecting it from direct rain, it has an amazing ability to soak up moisture and all the crimps become disgustingly spoodgy. So, 'Taipan' is a good choice on days of light showers, but if rain sets in you're better off going somewhere shorter, steeper and thuggier.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Drive to Flat Rock carpark and walk up Flat Rock (noting the difference between "flat" and "horizontal"!). Follow the track down into the Amphitheatre and across the flats. About 300m into the Amphitheatre the track starts to rise again and here the first boulders are met on the left (Trackside Bouldering Area), at this point leave the main track and head left. Follow this track uphill through the boulders for 100 metres or so to a tall boulder on the left with a prominent arete. From here the path up to 'Taipan Wall' is nowadays a well trodden highway, and meets the base of the cliff between 'The Great Divide' and Seventh Banana.

Descents: for climbs on the left half of the wall (i.e. all routes left of, and including, Serpentine), the descent is by a 40 metre abseil from the top of 'Clean Sweep'. Anchors atop other routes (such as 'Divided Years', Father O, Cardigan St and Mirage) are either unsafe to access from above or are poorly arranged for rope pulling, so the 'Clean Sweep' anchor is the only option. It is recommended to get your bearings beforehand (e.g. from the top of Flat Rock) as the anchor can be a little tricky to find from above. Traversing along the top of the wall to this anchor is quite exposed, particularly the section above Father O. While some people opt for the scary traverse on the very edge of the clifftop, this is not trivial above Cardigan St and the fall potential could hardly be worse. The better option is probably to stay about 12m back up from the clifftop above Cardigan St and Father O but this is still quite exposed so take care, and if in doubt rope up. Once you're at the 'Clean Sweep' abseil anchor, make sure to test-pull the ropes before the last person comes down because the ropes regularly get jammed on this abseil. Hint: the last person should step to abseiler's left to avoid laying the ropes in the offending groove on the lip. Right of 'Serpentine' it is not safe to walk unroped along the clifftop, and descent details are specified against each individual route below.

This page is based on Kieran Loughran's 1996 Stapylton Amphitheatre guide, but that has been significantly expanded here by Will Monks - the number of 'Taipan' routes has more than doubled since 1996! Please send corrections etc to will.monks@gmail.com.

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1.1.1.6. Spurt Wall 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Long/Lat: 142.385889, -36.897367

Description:© (nmonteith)

The highest concentration of hard routes in 'Victoria' and certainly the most popular sport crag in the 'Grampians'. Packed into a relatively short area and overshadowed by 'Taipan Wall' this well developed wall is full of hard slopy sustained test pieces. For many Europeans this is their entire experience of climbing in the 'Grampians' - which is a bit of a shame really. Like all true sport crags this place is all about the moves not the aesthetics of the routes. If you have issues with chalk and bolts than steer a wide path around this piece of modern cragging. The bottom of the crag is a very eroded sandy ramp so bring a good rope matt or suffer the consequences. Stick-clips litter the ground, use them to either aid your way up the respective project or to protect your ankles from snapping before the first bolt. Be warned - on some of the routes the longest stick still won't reach between the bolts!

'Excellent', although greasy in summer, bouldering is spread along the left hand end of Spurt. Some of the problems are starts to routes, but many are their own unique adventures. Big positive pockets and long dynos are very popular. Bring a good matt and something to clean your shoes from the endless sand.

Please don't treat this area as just 'another sport crag'. Don't leave blue tarps at the base, remove all rubbish including finger tape and try and minimize chalk use. This crag has been trashed by sheer numbers and is a very clear reminder of the impact climbers can create. Please try and minimize human created destruction - our access to this crag depends on it.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Spurt Wall is separated from the rest of 'Taipan Wall' only by a state of mind. The wall begins to build just right of the 'ramp' boulder that leans against the start of Invisible Fist. As you walk past the end of the boulder traverse you encounter the first of these routes. The first starts underneath the ledge that Mr Joshua starts from.

The photo below is of Jake Bresnehan on 'Lifestyling' (32).

1.1.1.7. Bouldering Buttress 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.387029, -36.899052

Description:© (willmonks)

This remote area high up on the right-hand end of 'Taipan Wall' is a remarkable piece of rock architecture forming a lovely little glade, that is well worth a visit just for its unique setting and atmosphere. The main part of the cliff is superb orange/yellow stone up to about 30 metres high and perhaps 10 metres overhung and in terms of architecture it is at least as impressive as 'Sandinista' Wall. Unfortunately the awe inspiring territory is all incredibly blank. Nevertheless, there are a couple of enjoyable climbs at either end.

Approach:© (willmonks)

The best walk in is probably via the tourist track past 'Lower Taipan Wall' all the way around to the Plaza Strip (as described on The Plaza Strip page). From there, walk L along the terrace under the big roof of Hip Bath. About 80m L of Hip Bath there is a weakness in the line of roofs, solo up this (an undercut jughaul into a short corner, take care), and you're at the base of the very obvious and impressive 'Bouldering Buttress'. This approach keeps you on the well-graded tourist track except for the last 100m or so, and avoids the long stumble past 'Trackside', 'Taipan', Spurt and Afterglow areas.

If you do want to approach via 'Taipan', follow 'Taipan Wall' R past 'Spurt Wall' and past 'Afterglow Wall' for another 50m or so until you reach the same weakness in the line of rooves as described above.

The 'Bouldering Buttress' terrace can also be gained by climbing the first 8m of 'Evil Elf' at the Plaza Strip and then walking easily L from there. Once again, it's no fun to solo.

1.1.1.8. Lower Taipan 74 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.384838, -36.899480

1.1.1.9. Afterglow Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Long/Lat: 142.386259, -36.898104

1.1.1.10. The Plaza Strip 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Long/Lat: 142.387512, -36.899284

Description:© (willmonks)

A remote area tucked away at the far Southern end of Mt Stapylton, but handily right near the summit tourist track. The routes are generally thin and a little steep, or gritstone like. A great place for a hot summers afternoon if you can handle the long approach walk. A good way to combine all day shade is to climb at Taipan/Spurt in the morning then walk right to Plaza Strip for the afternoon - it's only about 100m from 'Afterglow Wall' to the Plaza Strip (hint: hug the base of the cliffs R from 'Afterglow Wall', following the terrace 10-15m above the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering, and in no time you'll emerge from beneath the big roof of Hip Bath).

Approach:© (willmonks)

Refer to map one level up! Walk up Flat Rock and then past 'Lower Taipan Wall' on tourist track, continue up slab then follow tourist track as it hooks 180' back left and heads towards Mt Stapylton summit. When the track turns right, bush bash in for 50m to cliff. Alternative access is to walk directly right from 'Spurt Wall', past 'Afterglow Wall', to the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering cave. Another 50m right and above is this crag. It's only 20m from the tourist track. If you end up lost, follow the tourist track to the summit, and if you end up traversing left under a big chossy cave, you are actually walking above the crag. Walk back to find it. Shade after midday.

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1.1.1.11. Trackside Boulders 60 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.384657, -36.896121

Description:© (Hatsu)

[Topo's are in 1st draft stage] As the name suggests, it is on the trackside when you are heading towards the summit of Mt. Stapylton, as well as trackside if you are heading 'Taipan' wall.

Various boulders requiring different skills including monos, to the highball problem.

Fairly good landing for most of this area.

Approach:© (Hatsu)

Take the walking track from Mt Zero carpark and continue over Flat Rock, past 'Epsilon Wall'. Continue straight along the main track past the "Mt. Stapylton 1.7Km" sign. The boulders appear alongside the track soon afterwards.

PDF bouldering map of this area is on its way.

1.1.1.12. Citadel 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Boulder

Description:© (boardlord)

As for 'Between the Sheeps', but instead of branching left off the main track, continue along the main path as for Stapylton summit. Prior to the track ascending the gully (and opposite a vertical wall adjacent to the path) - take a right turn through the dense bush (track) to emerge at the 'Citadel'.

1.1.1.13. Ground Control Caves 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.385600, -36.894903

Description:© (boardlord)

3 caves that sit up above and just right of the 'Grey & Green Walls' (see current 'Grampians' Select Guide). 'Access' either via the rugged summit walking track starting from 'Echoes Block' area, or via the much longer (but less exposed) tourist track from the Mt Zero carpark - heading towards Stapylton Summit.

1.1.1.14. Cave Club 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Boulder,?

Description:© (boardlord)

Take the walking track up from the Mt Zero carpark, and continue all the way past Lower 'Taipan' Wall/Emu Rock etc towards Mt Stapylton summit. Just before the track winds its way to the very summit - skirt left around the escarpment to find the cave containing these 4 problems. Connoisseur's of the V10 market reportedly should not miss out on the problem of the same name.

1.1.1.15. Between the Sheeps 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.387000, -36.899509

Description:© (boardlord)

An exposed and very steep venue located on the far righthand end of the Mt Stapylton massif. 'Access' by taking the walking track from the Mt Zero carpark, then all the way past 'Taipan' Lower/Emu Rock. When the path branches in 2, take the left path (as for Stapylton summit/Cave Club/The Citadel) and continue along for a further 30 seconds. A vague path then leads straight through the bush to the cliffline (visible from the main path). All the problems are steep (roof) following sharp pockets/edges - with some finishes quite exciting due to the 30ft slab which resides beneath the terrace.

1.1.1.16. Spurt Wall (Bouldering) 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.1.17. The Titanic (Bouldering) 11 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.1.2. Flat Rock 81 routes in Cliff

314526

1 The Play Pen, 2 Wall of Fuels, 3 Bellerophon Wall, 4 Epsilon Wall, 5 Epsilon Wall Bouldering, 6 Cloud Cuckoo Land

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.377744, -36.894022

1.1.2.1. The Play Pen 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.376640, -36.892573

Description:© (willmonks)

Supposedly an area for novices to top-rope and abseil... but they will be FAR better off going to Summer Day Valley, 'Bellerophon Wall' or Arapiles! It is very short, has little atmosphere and is a haven for mosquitoes. It is of no interest to recreational climbers, except perhaps for an interesting scramble up the full length of the gully if needing to fill time. No descriptions will be reproduced here.

The routes mentioned go from left to right and were done by Aidan Banfield and friends in the eighties.

The Teddy Bear 6m 1

The Wise Old Rag Doll 6m 2

Sand Pits And 'Gravel Rash' 6m 3

The Rattle 7m 3

'The Play Pen' Play Mate 7m 3

The Dolls Play With Guns 8m 4

Approach:© (willmonks)

Walk into the large gully at the back of the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area to the sulphurous dam that thankfully is no longer used for water supply. This is about 30m to the R of the Flat Rock walking trail. The "cliff" is on the left as you look upstream. The "climbing" area starts 2 metres left of the dam and extends upstream. Scramble anywhere in this area.

1.1.2.2. Wall of Fuels 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Long/Lat: 142.375716, -36.893959

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

Originally called Flat Rock West Flank, an uninspiring and awkward name for this fine face on the far west side of Flat Rock, I have adopted an alternative suggested by Louise Shepherd. Not to be confused with the vastly superior 'Wall of Fools' in Summer Day Valley.

The crag faces west and gets sun in the afternoon. Climbs are described from left to right.

Approach:© (willmonks)

It's about 150m south of the Flat Rock / Mt Zero carpark and picnic area, and only about 60m from the road heading south (i.e the road going towards Pohlner's Track and Stapylton campground). Park on the side of that road if you're really lazy. The left side of the wall is obvious: impressive yellow overhanging choss. All of the existing climbs are right of this overhanging section and are best approached by walking straight in from the dirt road (which is obvious from the photo below).

Hide

1.1.2.3. Bellerophon Wall 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.379002, -36.892530

Description:© (nmonteith)

The pickings on this wall are quite respectable. There are a few pumpy things down the left end, some reasonable easier climbs in the middle of the crag and a collection of good, thin face routes on the right wall of 'Bellerophon'. In the past this cliff was known as Flat Rock East Flank.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

It is a long, low cliff that runs pretty much parallel to the walking track up Flat Rock. Start up Flat Rock and cut across left to the cliff. A short orange corner at the left end of the cliff called, amazingly enough, 'The Short Orange Corner' and a major corner further right, 'Bellerophon', are good landmarks.

The rock mostly faces west and is in shade to early afternoon but the right wall of 'Bellerophon' faces north and is in sun much earlier. It's a terrible place in late summer when the stored heat of Flat Rock radiates onto it. Descend by double rap rings above 'Bellerophon' or a long walk down via an easy scramble just left of the short orange corner at the far left end of the cliff. The climbs are described from left to right.

1.1.2.4. Epsilon Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.380783, -36.893857

Description:© (nmonteith)

This shady wall is on the left as you reach the top of Flat Rock. It has a few good examples of both trad, sport and mixed climbing as well as some very serious climbs at a spread of grades. The shockingly wide corner crack is 'Epsilon Plus'. The wall left of 'Epsilon Plus' offers good thin face climbs and some cracks of less distinction. Right of 'Epsilon Plus' is the frightening arete of 'New Imperative' and several attractive corners.

Up right from these climbs is the 'Skippy' Terrace, which has a few more good routes and is a good place on a warm day.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

The cliff faces SSE and is in complete shade for much of the year. It gets early morning sun in summer and often catches breezes from the top of Flat Rock. This can be a pleasant spot on a warm day but it is a miserable place in winter.

For the first 9 routes, please do NOT walk directly up from the walking track to the base of 'Epsilon Plus'. The hillside here is steep and sandy and erodes easily. Instead please approach these climbs from well to the left, traversing in across slabby ledges from Flat Rock, as shown by the red lines in some of the topos below.

For the first 7 routes, descend via rap chain (18m) directly above Iron In The Soul. The 'Benn Gunn' area is served by a double ring bolt rap anchor above 'Crossfire' (22m). There's also a shitty descent down an awkward scramble past old graffiti at the left end (50m left of Mistaken Identity).

1.1.2.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.381176, -36.893957

Description:© (boardlord)

Take the walking track up from the Mt Zero carpark and continue to the top of Flat Rock. When the track drops down into the treeline, continue approximately 40m further until the track goes along the base of the 'Benn Gunn' Buttress of 'Epsilon Wall'. You'll be alongside an isolated boulder on the right, and the track takes a slight turn rightwards here. The wall is located up on a ledge to the left, beneath the X=X Area (aka 'Skippy' Terrace) of 'Epsilon Wall'. Either scramble up the slab (about grade 5) beneath 'Crossfire', or walk into the forest to where you can easily access the ledge system up and left.

1.1.2.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.378792, -36.895284

Description:© (willmonks)

A fairly ordinary little area on the southeast side of Flat Rock, south of 'Epsilon Wall'. There are a couple of pleasant climbs for a mild spring or autumn afternoon.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the marked track almost to the top of Flat Rock, to where it swings left towards 'Epsilon Wall'. Continue straight up to the top of Flat Rock. Follow easy ramps rightwards (SSW) down the southeast side of Flat Rock to where a large pinnacle sits in front of an easy-angled slab (which is part of Flat Rock). The left side of the slab is bounded by a very easy corner crack. The rock is generally appalling apart from the slab, and most of the climbs lack appeal.

Descend to the right of the climbs or by rappel when possible. Climbs are described from right to left.

1.1.3. Mount Zero 33 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.370977, -36.886042

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

'Mount Zero' is the northernmost outcrop in The 'Grampians'. Its many outcrops look promising from the road but, in general, that's the best place to stay. 'Sport Crack' and 'Ephemeral Lakes' are of interest to sport climbers and 4 'Cornered' Crag offers reasonable easy climbs. That's about it.

Actually, I lied about staying in the car. The tourist track to the summit of 'Mount Zero' is most enjoyable. At the top, it's heartening to see that some environmentally-conscious people have pinned the summit together so that it doesn't fall apart on us.

Incidentally, 'Mount Zero' was named by Thomas Mitchell in 1836 because the temperature was 32 fahrenheit at dawn on the morning of the ascent. I thought that this was a bit weird but Mitchell was scientifically-minded so his thermometer was marked in Celsius but he had to report to his English masters in Fahrenheit (good German name). Maybe he had a sense of humour, despite his reputation for being pompous.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Start your journey at the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area. If you can't find 'Mount Zero', go home.

1.1.3.1. Descartes Edge 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the walking track toward the summit from the Flat Rock carpark. The track passes a steep wall then divides. One arm goes up and passes through a chimney and the other stays low and rejoins the route after the chimney. The two routes rejoin about 10m beyond the chimney where there is a small edge with a nice line.

1.1.3.2. Pangaea Walls 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

A collection of buttresses on the north-east slopes of 'Mount Zero' with a couple of good hard routes, another couple of reasonable easy climbs and a lot of choss.

Most of the routes here have their starts initialled in case they get lost (no great loss for the most part). This area was burnt-out in early 1996 so is probably heavy with regrowth by now.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Either park near the sweeping bend as you proceed from the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area to the 'Hollow Mountain' quarry and walk towards the lowest of the blocks or follow the summit walking track to just before 'Descartes' and drop down and around.

1.1.3.3. Toolondo Waters 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (willmonks)

A chossy collection of buttresses on the northern slopes of 'Mount Zero' that is easiest approached from the walking track. The only notable thing here is the potential bouldering cave beside 'Toolondo Waters'.

Approach:© (willmonks)

After passing the 'Descartes' facet, follow the track for another couple of hundred metres into a col before the track goes up again toward the summit. Leave the track and pass through the col to the northern slopes and traverse east (right facing out) across the slope to some scrappy buttresses. Locate the bouldering cave to work out where the climbs are.

Alternatively, the outcrops can be approached from 'Pangaea Walls'. Looking from 'Pangaea Walls', two tiers of cliff are visible 300m to the west on the other side of a scrubby saddle. Most prominent, high on the lower tier, is a clean, hanging corner with obvious water streaks to its right. 'Toolondo Waters' starts below this corner.

1.1.3.4. 4 Cornered Crag 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (willmonks)

A supposedly obvious crag situated a little north-east of the summit distinguished by (surprise, surprise!) four corners. This is the most coherent of the crags at 'Mount Zero' and is probably worth a visit.

The cliff faces north and gets full sun. Climbs are described from left to right.

Approach:© (willmonks)

After passing the 'Descartes' facet, follow the track for another couple of hundred metres into a col before the track goes up again toward the summit. Leave the track and pass through the col to the northern slopes and contour around west (left facing out from the slope) for three or four minutes.

1.1.3.5. Mt Zero Summit Cliff 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (willmonks)

This area is mostly garbage though the small cliff just below the lookout has some merit.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the walking track. The cliff faces west and the choss is described from left to right.

1.1.3.6. Mount Zero West Walls 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (willmonks)

Here is another area of choss. Some of the rock here looks good but it doesn't seem that anyone has found it yet. Apparently there have been many worthless climbs done here that have not been recorded. Let's hope that they stay that way.

Approach:© (willmonks)

The west face has a band of cliffs with large orange overhangs sloping diagonally across the hillside with the highest outcrop directly below the summit. The overhangs look really good from the road but are disappointing on closer acquaintance. Even so, they should yield better climbs than the existing ones.

The first climb is the chimney that divides this outcrop right of the prominent overhangs. We move right from this point.

1.1.4. Iskra Crag 74 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.392865, -36.888621

1.1.4.1. Lemonade Wall 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Aid,Trad

1.1.4.2. Flower Power Block 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.3. Shadow Buttress 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.4. Emu Crag 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.5. Sunstroke Area 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.6. Pigs in Space Buttress 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.7. Main West Face 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.8. Dolgoruki Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.9. First Tier 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.10. Second Tier 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.11. Third Tier 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.12. North Western Outcrop 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.4.13. Eastern Walls 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Hide

1.1.4.14. 36 Chambers 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Boulder

1.1.4.15. Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers 0 routes in Area

1.1.5. Summerday Valley 322 routes in Crag

109211311

1 Back Wall, 2 Main Wall, 9 Bird Wall, 10 Left Wall, 11 Tunnel Cliff, 13 Wall of Fools

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.387340, -36.888459

Description:© (willmonks)

By far the most popular crag in the entire 'Grampians'. Be ready to contend with crowds, both private and commercial.

A note of caution: while the sandstone around here is generally considered to be of very good quality, protruding rock features such as bollards, chickenheads, flakes and fins are often brittle, and they can and do snap off on occasion. Wear helmets, place pro even on "easy" juggy sections, and don't place too much trust in "snappable" rock features for your pro or when scrambling.

1.1.5.1. Back Wall 40 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384833, -36.888743

Description:© (willmonks)

The slim buttress in the middle of the valley is a remarkable piece of rock. Although appearing slightly scrappy, it offers a large number of good quality trad routes, mostly in the easier grades. What's more, the easy access to the top makes most routes easy to toprope, and the opposed orientation of 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' means that you can choose whether to climb in the sun or the shade at any time of day. These factors, combined with the proximity to the carpark, have made 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' by far the most popular crag in the entire 'Grampians'.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Back Wall is the SW face of 'Central Buttress', and faces the 'Wall of Fools'. With the way the track comes in these days you reach 'Back Wall' before 'Main Wall' so the names are a little confusing! It is shady until early afternoon, making it good for summer mornings and winter afternoons.

To gain the top of the crag (or to descend) you need to do a fairly easy scramble at either end, but again, don't trust the snappable jugs.

1.1.5.2. Main Wall 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384947, -36.888604

Description:© (willmonks)

The slim buttress in the middle of the valley is a remarkable piece of rock. Although appearing slightly scrappy, it offers a large number of good quality trad routes, mostly in the easier grades. What's more, the easy access to the top makes most routes easy to toprope, and the opposed orientation of 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' means that you can choose whether to climb in the sun or the shade at any time of day. These factors, combined with the proximity to the carpark, have made 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' by far the most popular crag in the entire 'Grampians'.

1.1.5.3. Calcutti Crag 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.4. Hadrian's Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.5. Tropicana Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Aid

1.1.5.6. The Stack 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.7. Norms Face 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.8. Loversleep Cliff 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.9. Bird Wall 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.385968, -36.888518

1.1.5.10. Left Wall 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384896, -36.887909

1.1.5.11. Tunnel Cliff 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384918, -36.889497

1.1.5.12. Noah's Ark 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.13. Wall of Fools 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384112, -36.888838

1.1.5.14. Bowler Boulder 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.15. Callitris Face 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.16. Callitris Gully 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.17. Scout Cliff 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.18. Brownie Buttress 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.19. The Last Bastion 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.5.20. Old Campsite Area 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.6. Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) 734 routes in Crag

126351215711131416171819202122

1 Flying Blind Area, 2 Barc Cliff, 3 Gunn Buttress, 5 Amnesty Wall Area, 6 Andersens, 7 Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes), 11 Sandinista Cliffs, 12 Pensioners Wall Area, 13 Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, 14 Loopeys, 15 Hollow Mountain Cave, 16 Legoland, 17 Cut Lunch Walls, 18 Koalasquatsy Wall, 19 Tribute Wall, 20 The Dungeon, 21 Bad Moon Rising Wall, 22 Van Dieman's Land

Summary:

Boulder,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.383904, -36.891802

1.1.6.1. Flying Blind Area 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.383402, -36.888874

1.1.6.2. Barc Cliff 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.383957, -36.889496

1.1.6.3. Gunn Buttress 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.382998, -36.891136

Description:

A steep little crag of strong lines tucked away below the trees underneath Sandinista Wall. This could be called Lindorff Crag as Kevin was involved in almost every one of these routes. His trademark hard grading and technical crack moves are a feature of this area. It's a shame that the best routes on this crag all feature an awkward tree scramble to get started. This is one of the only cliffs in this area that is suitable for top-roping, due to the easy top access, although some routes are too steep to toprope. Some excellent bouldering has been done on the left side. This place is protected from light rain and gets morning sun although the trees keep it generally shady for most of the day.

Approach:

Easily approached by leaving the track 50m before the Sandinista Cliff and heading right on a well worn track (which heads to Anderson's bouldering area). 50m along this track the wall will be visible on the left. Almost all routes are marked with a small white painted initial. Descent for all climbs is down the right side via a small track. Routes are described left to right.

1.1.6.4. Battlescarred Blocks 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Description:

A few ok routes hidden away in the jungle surrounding the Andersons bouldering area. Most people don't even realize that there is roped climbing tucked below the main cliffs.

Approach:

The following routes are 40m down from the right hand end of Gun Buttress at two large boulders which create a small well sheltered alcove. If you follow the lower of the climbers' tracks you pass very near these large boulders. They are protected from the sun most of the day.

1.1.6.5. Amnesty Wall Area 45 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.382063, -36.891154

Description:© (nmonteith)

One of the most popular sport crags in the 'Grampians' - and one of the easiest to get to. Recent bolting (and retrobolting) has created a popular and busy little sector which contrasts nicely with the original old school trad routes. There is a wide variety of styles and grades so that most climbers would be pretty happy spending a day in this delightful shaded glen. The rock is extremely featured with large pockets and seams but can vary in quality with the lower section of the main wall suffering from sandy rock. Some expansion bolts have become loose over time - so take care, and if adding new routes please use glue-ins.

Historically this area has been one of the most developed crags at 'Hollow Mountain'. In 1983 the Lindorff brothers established the two infuriatingly thin face routes of 'Airplay' (21) and 'Levitation' (22) as well as the undeservedly ignored 'No Fixed Address' (21). A few years later Louise Shepherd established one of the first of the hard routes in the area with her bold ascent of 'Amnesty International' (24). Her partner on this route, Steve Monks, added his own wicked creation, the drought affected 'Chinese Water Torture' (22). In the early 90s Martin Lama and Graeme Smith added two variations to a theme on the 'Airplay' wall. 'Julia Roberts' (21) and 'Infinite Dreams' (22) were the result. In 1993 James McIntosh lead his way through choss and moss to create his own version of the 'Lost Arrow' spire (15). Seven years later Ray Lassman and Keith Lockwood boldly climbed the arete right of the main wall to produce No Fixed Gear (18). Unfortunately this route lasted less than twelve months before it was unknowingly retrobolted by Dianne Fermi to create the aptly named 'Amnesia' (17). This act heralded a near explosion of new route activity by a new younger generation of sport climbers. Matt Brooks returned with a vengeance establishing one of the hardest routes outside of 'Sandinista' Wall with his 'United Nations' (30). He also added the very popular 'The Tyrants Grasp' (22) and 'Freedom Fighter' (27). David Isaacs created further controversy by bolting a crack/seam to create 'Sting' Like A Bee (24). Recent years have seen the rest of the real estate slowly being filled by extensions, linkups and the usual. This area has become one of the more popular sport crags in the 'Grampians'.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

The most foolproof approach from the 'Hollow Mountain' car park is to follow the 'Hollow Mountain' Summit tourist trail to the base of 'Sandinista' Wall, then walk R along the base of the cliffs for about 80m to the 'Moral Vandal' Block, and keep going another 50m or so to emerge in this shady amphitheatre with a heavily pocketed central wall. A more direct and quicker approach, if you know the trails, is to turn right off the 'Hollow Mountain' Summit tourist trail about 150m before you get to 'Sandinista' Wall, and walk right about 100m under Gun Buttress, and then stumble 50m up the right end of Gun Buttress to pop into Amnesty Amphitheatre.

This area keeps fairly dry in light rain - but tends to seep after extended liquid downfalls. The routes get morning sun, however many routes will be shady most of the day as they lie under the tree line.

1.1.6.6. Andersens 187 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.380805, -36.891025

Description:© (Hatsu)

Victoria's most popular bouldering destination. Lots of free standing Font style formations with nice soft landings. Take care of the ground vegetation as it has taken a battering since boulderers discovered this area. More info will be added later by Alister Robertson (or so we thought back in 2005...).

Approach:© (Hatsu)

The boulder field is located directly underneath Orange 'Blossom' and 'Guernica' Wall.

1.1.6.7. Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) 43 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.380968, -36.891919

1.1.6.8. The Kindergarten (bouldering) 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Boulder

Description:© (boardlord)

A good collection of problems that haphazardly span the grades between V3 and V12+. Standout problems that are amongst some of the best for their grade are 'Innocence' (V3), 'The Nevin Rule' (V7) and Spanking the 'Monkey' Bars (V8). Section 2 is a perfect spot for a rainy day - as it is one of the few areas that stay dry in a downpour.

Approach:© (boardlord)

These climbs are located right of the 'Clicke Wall' area. 'Problems' are listed left to right (facing the cliff). 'Access' via Mt Zero carpark, then once past the picnic area and onto the base of Flat Rock - keep heading left following the borderline of the trees and rock platform to gain the upper terrace. Then head straight up towards the main cliffline where a faint track and cairns lead up to obvious orange wall under a roof. This is Section 1. Gripmaster (V9) is a particular landmark - just look for the very bad slopers heading up the vague arete to under the roofline. Further around from here about 80 meters to the right is Section 2.

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1.1.6.9. Expedition Crag 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.6.10. Turtle Rocks 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.6.11. Sandinista Cliffs 50 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384564, -36.892190

1.1.6.12. Pensioners Wall Area 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.382910, -36.891396

Description:© (nmonteith)

A little piece of English gritstone tucked away below the treeline just north of the mighty 'Sandinista' Wall. These short routes are only worth doing on the way to other climbing areas and are also suitable for top-roping. The crag gets little sun apart from early in the morning.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Follow small track right from 'Sandinista' Wall for 30m to find the blocky north east facing Pensioners Wall and south facing bolted boulder of 'Moral Vandal' Block.

1.1.6.13. Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block 47 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Boulder and ?

Long/Lat: 142.382906, -36.892218

1.1.6.14. Loopeys 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.381789, -36.892474

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1.1.6.15. Hollow Mountain Cave 45 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Boulder,?

Long/Lat: 142.381889, -36.891844

Description:© (nmonteith)

Australia's premier roof bouldering venue. Chalked to the gills and inhabited by freakish Europeans. Unless you boulder harder than V7 don't bother with this place. The hardest 'problem' is the V16 78-move ceiling called 'The Wheel Of Life' by Dai Koyamada.

1.1.6.16. Legoland 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.386915, -36.893511

Description:

400m to the left of Sandinista Wall

1.1.6.17. Cut Lunch Walls 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Long/Lat: 142.386779, -36.893995

Description:

Some popular sport routes on a small Taipanesque wall, and some not so popular trad lines. This is a cliff of wide variety and offers several days worth of action for the mid grade 20’s climber.

Approach:

960m from carpark. 36.53663s, 142.23.178e.

Keep following the base of the cliff line south west from White Wall past acres of blank rock for 300m until the cliff starts to breaks down. At the first opportunity scramble up the small wall on the right. There should be a small rock cairn halfway up this 6m wall which shows the way. If you miss this step-up you will end up stumbling around at the base of a short poxy cliff cursing the guidebook authors. At the time of this guidebook research there is a small man-made rock wall and sticks blocking the wrong path. Once above this short wall you will see a high orange wall, this is Upper Cut Lunch Wall where most of the sport routes are. Below and to the right of this wall are several of the trad routes.

Routes from 1-9 are on Lower Cut Lunch Wall. Routes from 10-18 are on Upper Cut Lunch Wall. Routes described from right to left. This wall gets full sun until about 1pm. It is cool and breezy and shady in the afternoon.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors located above 'Raindancer' and 'Twisted Horizons'.

History:

In the late 1980’s intrepid explorer Dave Vass started things rolling with the fine corner of 'The Snatch' (23). A year later Jon Bassindale dragged a few fellow Poms up the impressive and bold 'Romeo is Bleeding' (23) - which is unfortunately the only feasible line up the full height of the superb blank orange wall dominating the left side of the crag. The cliff remained un-loved for more than ten years until sport climbers began to notice the lovely orange rock high up on the ledge above the grey jugs. Kent Paterson and Julian Saunders both inspected the wall but abandoned first ascent attempts because of the seemingly bad access. This didn’t stop Neil Monteith and Nick McKinnon from appearing in 2001 and cleaning up a swag of quality sport routes and establishing an easy way up to the ledge. The addition of a few gnarly trad routes in the last few years has filled in the gaps.

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1.1.6.18. Koalasquatsy Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Long/Lat: 142.387247, -36.894714

Description:© (nmonteith)

Home of some beautiful rock, mighty lines and a few easy scary jug-fests. Renewed interest in this area has created a good collection of varied classics. This is the south-eastern continuation of 'Cut Lunch Walls', with the two being separated by the awesome but very blank 30m wall of immaculate orange stone.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Cut Lunch Walls' follow a (sometimes) cairned rock ridge following the big blank cliff-line as closely as possible. About 80m left of 'Raindancer' and on a ledge above is 'Koalasquatsy Wall'. The black corner of 'Koalasquatsy' and the amazing south facing orange wall of 'Us Esoterics' should be obvious. To get onto the belay ledge keep walking 50m south (towards 'Tribute' Wall) and scramble back R up a small gully. Descent for most of these climbs are dedicated rap anchors, however for the longer older routes it is via bollard slings near the top of Ooh Ooh Aah Aah or by ringbolts above Cut Lunch Wall. Crag faces into the sun in the morning. Routes described right to left.

1.1.6.19. Tribute Wall 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.387624, -36.895067

Description:

A small sport climbing area with a few intermediate graded face routes on compact grey and orange rock. The holds tend to be sloping and pumpy.

1.1.6.20. The Dungeon 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Long/Lat: 142.388450, -36.895479

Description:© (nmonteith)

A short punchy bulgy wall of immaculate marbled rock, which has experienced a bit of new activity from Kent Paterson! The routes here are just over vertical. The wall suffers a bit from small climb syndrome and bad access. The base is a chaos of mossy boulders, ferns and chasms. It is best to rap in with a fixed rope and climb out of all these climbs. To get a good view of the wall before committing to the rap, scramble around to the pedestal on the southern end of the wall. 'Irritant Pollens' is the evil looking flake crack visible from the pedestal. The crag gets morning sun but soon switches to shade as it is tucked away down low.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

This wall lies below 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. Walk out from 'Bad Moon Rising' for 50m to the edge of the cliff. A small terrace with several rap chains is directly above the climbs but is fairly dangerous to reach. It is better to rig a fixed rope from safer territory and abseil down the slabby bit onto the terrace, re-belay mid-rope off one of the chains, and then rap down the main cliff to the base. At the far left end of the terrace (facing out) is the rap chain for 'Civil War'. The middle chain is Mistaken for Strangers, and the right chain is an un-bolted potential project. Right of this chain is a manky double bolt belay belonging to Prisoner Of Conscience. Routes listed from right to left when facing into the rock.

1.1.6.21. Bad Moon Rising Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Long/Lat: 142.388176, -36.895639

Description:© (nmonteith)

The slabby streaked walls between 'Tribute Wall' and Van Dieman's Land. The routes and rock quality resemble Wall Of Fools at Summer Day Valley. The right side is home to several nice sport routes and the left has some of the best easy jug fests in the Grampians. Cliff faces into the sun until mid-afternoon. Routes described right to left.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

1200m from carpark and 580m from 'Sandinista' Wall. 36.53.730s, 142.23.270e. Walk through the 'Tribute' Walls ravine, scramble down via worn tree and airy step-across to large open rocky platform. The cliff to the west (right) is 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. If you continue along this rocky platform for 80m you will end up in the Van Dieman's Land Amphitheatre.

Descent Notes:© (nmonteith)

Descent from the left side trad routes can be made via the double ring-bolts located on the ledge above Revenge Of The 'Chicken'.

History:© (nmonteith)

Surprisingly the harder routes were all but ignored for decades until Monty was researching a new online guide in 2005. A few weekends later and the area sprung from only two easy trad routes to quite a collection of nice midrange sport climbs.

1.1.6.22. Van Dieman's Land 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.388859, -36.896589

1.1.6.23. Rambla Wall 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Boulder

Approach:© (boardlord)

This is the overhanging wall directly above 'Sandinista' Wall and right on the Hollow Mtn summit track. The boulder problems are on the upper side of the cleft through which the walking track passes. The landing is steep stepped rock so mats are essential - and you will be forever moving them out of the way to let walkers get past - it is really tight in there. 'Problems' are described left to right facing the cliff.

1.1.6.24. A-Frame Boulders 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (nmonteith)

Not a bouldering area! Several nice trad face routes on a difficult to access wall. The crag is plainly obvious from the carpark but quite hard to locate when you actually reach the local area. It is the outer face of the 'Tribute' Walls.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Best access is to walk from the far left end of White Wall without going up the rock step toward 'Cut Lunch Walls'. Keep going more or less horizontally for 100m, and you should end up on a terrace which ends under the A-Frame Boulder. Alternatively, abseil in from a bollard at the top of the blocks about 20m outwards of 10 AM (see 'Tribute' Wall).

1.1.7. North-West Mt Difficult Range 94 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.439471, -37.013965

Description:© (jgoding)

Home to some classics.

Useful Info: 45min walk in up a steep, well defined track.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Just past Roses Gap rec centre, about 30mins off the highway

1.1.7.1. Carter's Col 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.7.2. Sickle Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.7.3. Mawson Slab 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.7.4. Mt Difficult Cliff 53 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Description:

Some excellent trad climbing but there's unfortunately a lot of choss among the good stuff. As the cliff is reached near it's right-hand side, climbs have been organised from right-to-left.

Approach:

Follow the walking track up from Trooper's Creek campsite, past the 'Wind Cave' then more steeply to reach the cliff just left of 'Nostalgia'

Descent Notes:

The easiest descent from the top of the cliff is at the left end. Follow the cliff-top to the waterfall and descend this via terraces on the left (facing out) to the tourist track.

At the right-hand end locating the gully beside the Epaminondas buttress is tricky. Abseil Gully, despite the name, is not a good descent option and it is also not easy to locate from above.

1.1.7.5. Epaminondas Buttress 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (jgoding)

Sound rock, good climbing and inspiring positions give this buttress one of the best collections of long middle grade classics in the 'Grampians'.

Approach:© (jgoding)

About 200m to the right of the main wall. Follow cairned route across from where the track hits the main Mt Difficult wall. To descend from 'Sword in the Stone' and the routes to its right head back from the cliff edge then trend left heading for a gully. A well trod and cairned pad winds down this.

1.1.7.6. Troopers Creek Cliff 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (nmonteith)

The large orange cliffs running east from Tilwinda Falls. Much of the rock is broken looking and quite steep. There is some potential for sport routes on clean blocky faces, slabs and big roofs. Natural lines are few and far between, and usually consist of rubbish rock.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From the Troopers Creek campground follow the tourist track to Tilwinda Falls (this is not the same track as the regular Mt Difficult track). When the tourist track suddenly steepens and arrives at cliffs, cross the creek on the left and scramble up to the orange cliff-line. Walk along and up to the left (steeply) keeping as close as possible to the cliff base. Five minutes from the creek crossing you will reach the original Wayne Maher route. 15 minutes walk all up.

1.1.7.7. Mt Difficult Summit 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.7.8. Mt Bloody Impossible 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.8. The Rockwall Area 45 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.439311, -36.961937

1.1.8.1. Barr's Buttress 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.8.2. The Rockwall 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

1.1.9. Briggs Bluff Area 70 routes in Cliff

74

4 Pacific Ocean Wall, 7 Centurion Walls

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.460866, -36.985436

1.1.9.1. Beehive Falls 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.9.2. Mirage Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.9.3. Drama Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Aid

1.1.9.4. Pacific Ocean Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport and ?

Long/Lat: 142.445812, -36.986516

Description:

Pacific Ocean Wall is a spectacular wall of unbroken rock, 100-120m high, stretching for over a kilometer. While some protection can be found in the highly textured rock, it is often not adequate for the length of a route and usually some fixed protection is required.

Approach:

There are two approaches:

1. Walk up the Briggs Bluff Walking Track to the first highpoint past Beehive Falls. Pacific Ocean Wall is on the other side of the creek. Turn off the walking track at the highpoint and follow the cliffline. Stay as close to the RH edge of the plateau for the easiest walking.

2. From an off-road Camp Area 3.8km from Mt Zero Rd, follow pink ribbons and faint track.Takes you to the start of the consistent cliff line near the base of Ghandi.

To access the top of the cliff, continue up the BBWT. It swings south when it reaches the top of POW and follows the top of the wall along a plateau.

Descent Notes:

The Briggs Bluff Walking Trail runs along the top of the cliff, 50-100m from the cliff edge for about 2/3rds of its length. At the southern end of the cliff, head north along the cliff edge until you can find the trail.

There are rap stations provided on and above the Kon Tiki Face.

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1.1.9.5. Distortion Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.9.6. Briggs Bluff 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (nmonteith)

A large Blue Mountains looking buttress overlooking the Western 'Highway'. Much of it is total choss.

1.1.9.7. Centurion Walls 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.459788, -36.974541

Description:© (nmonteith)

This is a semi-sport crag located below the 'Briggs Bluff' massif. The rock is steep orange sandstone walls with

the occasional cave thrown in for good measure. Most of the

better routes are grade 20+ and protected mainly by bolts.

The fixed equipment used on this cliff are either stainless

steel expansion bolts or glue-in ringbolts. Most climbs have

rap anchors to facilitate easy descent and cleaning. The first

ascentists have endeavored to camouflage fixed equipment

by painting hangers and rings with matt textured paint. The first

bolts on routes are usually relatively high off the deck so a stickclip is useful. Much of the rock is soft, so try and avoid climbing within 24 hours of recent rain. Routes such as 'Winged Corpse', 'Psychotic' Episode and 'Killer Wolf' are good wet weather routes. Black streaks on the rock are marks of water seepage which means these routes are not climbable after heavy rain. A light rack of gear is required for many of the routes - a single set of cams and wires will suffice on all apart from 'Kublai Khan' and 'Stone Temptress'. There is still some potential for new lines to be done.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

These cliffs are in the Mt Difficult Range (Nth Grampians), in

'Victoria'. From 'Melbourne' drive to Stawell and continue north towards Horshum for about 15 minutes, then take the well signposted road left to Roses Gap. If you drive past the Big Koala you have gone too far. Aprox 10km down this road just before Roses Gap turn left down Roses Gap/Mt Zero Road (dirt) heading south for 1.2 km (24km north from Delley's Bridge in Halls Gap). Park on the side of the road near a large rock cairn. In the distance on the right is a low orange wall (Centurion) with a large grey wall above (Briggs Bluff). The upper wall has a large arch formation. Follow well cut track with some tape markersand rock cairns for about 15 minutes, walking

through light scrub to arrive at the centre of the 'Lower Wall'.

If you want to camp the two best bets are the Fire Dam about

500m along Halls Gap/Mt Zero Rd from Roses Gap or Troopers

Creek campsite (payment required) which is several kilometres

west along Roses Gap Rd. You can also camp in a sheltered

sandy cave to the right of 'Progressive Happy House' at the cliff.

1.1.9.8. Deep Creek Walls 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.9.9. Deep Creek Blocks 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.9.10. The End of the Earth 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.9.11. Mirage Rock 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.10. Eastern Mt Difficult Range 73 routes in Crag

9

9 Lunar Walls

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.496436, -37.059115

1.1.10.1. Split Pinnacle 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.10.2. No Mans Land 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.10.3. Heatherlie Heights 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Aid

1.1.10.4. Cape Canaveral 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.10.5. Woomera 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.10.6. The Promised Land 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.10.7. The Heavens 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.10.8. Lower Heavens 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.10.9. Lunar Walls 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.505868, -37.058598

1.1.10.10. The Tim Tams 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.11. Asses Ears Area 272 routes in Crag

12479561183

1 Asses Ears, 2 Sunset Crags, 3 The Secret Crags, 4 Cherub Wall, 5 Maul Wall, 6 Walaby Rocks, 7 Conifer Wall, 8 Geranium (Brim) Springs, 9 Porcelain Wall, 11 Joey Blocks

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.332872, -37.123644

Description:© (aca_admin)

A wild area tucked away on the far west of the 'Grampians'. The rock is generally gritty and featured.

1.1.11.1. Asses Ears 72 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.330764, -37.092942

1.1.11.2. Sunset Crags 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.319465, -37.098431

1.1.11.3. The Secret Crags 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.319435, -37.116986

1.1.11.4. Cherub Wall 54 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.334448, -37.098844

1.1.11.5. Maul Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.329932, -37.102934

1.1.11.6. Walaby Rocks 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.327717, -37.109498

1.1.11.7. Conifer Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.287950, -37.099941

1.1.11.8. Geranium (Brim) Springs 41 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.275472, -37.115589

1.1.11.9. Porcelain Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.292268, -37.101649

1.1.11.10. Wallaby Rocks 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.11.11. Joey Blocks 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.328710, -37.111370

1.1.12. Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area 168 routes in Crag

1516151110

1 Mount of Olives, 5 Point 447, 10 The Unnamed Cliff, 11 An Unnamed Cliff, 15 The Olive Cave, 16 The Ravine

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.404863, -36.958361

Description:© (willmonks)

Includes crags on the escarpment which runs south from the 'Mt Stapylton Campground', accessed from either Winfields Rd or Smiths Rd. The more southerly crags on this escarpment (Mt Emu and neighbors) are actually closer to Pohlners Track but have traditionally been written up as being accessed from Smiths Rd, and so they are included here. Double sets of locked gates were installed in February 2009 on either end of the sandy road, so you will now have to walk into these areas.

1.1.12.1. Mount of Olives 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and ?

Long/Lat: 142.393257, -36.909178

Description:© (willmonks)

A large tower of rock clearly visible from the Stapylton Campground. The main west facing cliffs are covered in thick moss, but the back north side has a good clean hidden wall - dubbed Shangri La.

The 'Mount of Olives' is an old area that has been ignored for thiry years. The spate of recent discoveries should raise a few eyebrows. A cliff dismissed as worthless that can produce a crop of middle-grade climbs to the first suitors probably has more to offer. The immense overhangs on the south face really warrant a serious look. The overhangs are large, lichenous and will be hard to bolt. If you're looking for a project, here it is.

Approach:© (willmonks)

The cliff can be approached from above or below.

To approach from above, walk in past Point 447 along the stapylton loop trake. Parke at the gate on Puhlnars rd. It takes about 40 minutes but there's only 5 minutes of scrub and it's quite flat and it is a spectacular walk. You arrive warmed up but relaxed. Descend the gully on the NW side of the peak. A short abseil may be needed to access climbs right of 'The Third Man' (dangerous slab).

Alternatively, aproach from below using the walking track from the Stapylton campground where it crosses Pohlner's Road and cutting off up the hillside to the crag. This is rough and steep but not too bad if you keep to the right of the slabby areas below the outcrop. Walking time would be slightly less than the if coming from the top but it is decidedly more enervating.

1.1.12.2. The Rust Bucket 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep bouldery

Ethic:

Sport

1.1.12.3. Martini Rock 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.12.4. Worship Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.12.5. Point 447 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Long/Lat: 142.406833, -36.911058

Description:© (willmonks)

A good steep little crag on top of the range with a couple of new route options left.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Drive up Pohlner Track from the Stapylton Campground to a closed 4WD track on the left near the top of the range. Don't park in front of the gate: there is a good parking spot 100m further up the road. From the car-park the cliff appears as a steep block to the north. Follow the closed 4WD track for about 15 minutes and then turn left onto a walking track that takes you to the crag in a further 5 minutes.

Don't approach directly from the track when the cliff is first obvious: continue until just past the crag then walk in to the left end. The obvious approach when the crag is first sighted is a horrible mess of boulders, fallen timber and scrub.

1.1.12.6. Bordel Buttress 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.12.7. Mt Emu 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.12.8. The Crows Nest 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.12.9. The Eyrie 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.12.10. The Unnamed Cliff 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.387805, -36.970295

Description:© (jgoding)

This cliff has a number of worthwhile climbs and isn't quite as remote as its neighbours. It is a fairly long crag and as access is at the left-hand end and the descent is at the right-hand end it can seem a long walk in climbing booties. Take Tevas!

There has been some recent development of a small face at the left end, including abseil stations, and some routes in the 22 department. Rock quality of this wall (Energise your soul wall) is generally excellent orange/grey sandstone. The rest of the cliff varies greatly, with large sections of choss, some very appealing lines. The descent off some routes looks epic, beware. Route finding to date has been hard due to lack of any decent topo maps. Please treat this upate with caution as many of the existing routes have not been added to the topos as the editor was not sure where they went. I hope the routes that I have indicated (which I am sure of) are useful to find your way around this crag. Possibility for new routes is great.

Original text by Bill Andrews. Edited by Joe Goding 12th July 2004.

Map Details

See Northern 'Grampians' (VICMAP). 1:50,000. The new track (as described in text) hits the cliff at approx 075 230

Also see "Mount Stapylton" 1:25,000 (VICMAP)

Suggested Campsites

1)Troopers Creek (Further) or

2)Mt Stapylton (Easier & closer).

Approach:© (jgoding)

This crag is basically found near the south-east corner of the Toscana olives fenceline (there is a reasonable road on the south end of this. The road on the east boundary should only be undertaken by large (i.e. Hi-Lux or Land Cruiser) 4WD with decent clearance.

1. From the Troopers Creek campsite, head along Rose's Gap Road (towards Wartook) for 5km to Smith Road, (at 009 241) turn right onto this and follow it until it heads west (at GR 063 028) turn north onto Winfield Road. One kilometre along Winfield Road there is a vehicle track on the right(Cameron's Road), follow this (along the south, fenced border of Toscana Olives) for about 1½km until it peters out and turns north. Park here and head off roughly following an old vehicle track (that has had lots of trees felled across it). The start of the track can be a bit hard to find. You will hopefully find the trail which is just slightly higher than the old vehicle track most of the way, and joins it from time to time. You might catch the odd bit of yellow tape on a branch. After about 500m you come to a more open area, sloping down into the creek. Head left just before the creek, cross it after around 80m and follow it up and left (Cairned) until it heads steeply uphill to the base of 'Energise your soul' route. *The old track took another route slightly to the south but the track was re-made in order to reduce erosion as the old track was not well cairned and went mainly over loose ground. Routes described from left to right across the cliff.

2. From the new Mt Stapylton campsite, head west on Plantation Road, turn south onto Windfield Road. Follow this until you reach the south end of Toscana Olives. As for 'Access' description 1).

Cliff Faces

North west. A good winter cliff. Be a little careful of wind on the left end of the cliff as it can get pretty full on and tie up your ropes amongst the chicken heads!

Time from Car: 20 25 minutes.

Add access from Mt Stapleton. Update access. Refer to map. (Scan map).

Descent

The top of this cliff has a number of mini canyons running back from the cliff edge, especially at the left hand end, because of this, descent is definitely easier via the gully towards the right-hand end of the cliff. This gully is readily located by a couple of large cairns, the highest of which indicates the start of the gully. Down in the gully there is an option, either an "Organ Pipes (at Arapiles) descent gully" type hole, or the buttress on its left (facing out). Of the two options the buttress is slightly easier. If going down the hole, move out right (facing the cliff) at the bottom; if taking the buttress option, move left (facing the cliff) towards the bottom of the "hole" option and down climb the bottom part of the buttress to a good ledge. Traverse this to the right and drop down to ground level and walk out through the scrub for 10 15 metres to where it thins out and back to the base of the climbs. All of the above sounds complex but it should gel when you are actually there.

It is also possible to get down the left hand end of the cliff but it would probably require a few trips to become familiar with all the ins and outs of the maze.

At the left-hand end of the cliff is a descent gully; at the bottom of this gully is a small face. Non Event starts at the overlap in the centre of this face.

1.1.12.11. An Unnamed Cliff 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.380236, -36.965591

1.1.12.12. Olive Grove 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.12.13. Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (nmonteith)

The laziest climbing option in the Grampians? The two minute walk-in is sure to attract the sort of climber who enjoys a sleep in, a siesta and an afternoon nap before bed time. This lozenge shaped outcrop would be useful for beginner to intermediate climbing instruction as it is within easy walking distance from the campsite, is about 12 metres high, has several good routes on reasonable rock offering natural protection, can be set up for abseiling, and can be down climbed at about grade 6 (about 2 metres right of the north arête on the west side). This pillar is now totally climbed out – don't even think about contriving a new route!

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Refer to map one level up. The obvious free standing pillar is located about 100m south of the carpark at the Cave of 'Ghosts' Aboriginal art site. You walk past this obvious pillar on the way to the other crags in this area.

You can climb at any time of day due to the circular nature of the pillar. Just pick a shady side. Descend by simul-absiel or downclimb Automatic Runway. There are no bolt anchors on the summit.

1.1.12.14. Ghost Block 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.12.15. The Olive Cave 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Long/Lat: 142.378359, -36.957887

Description:© (nmonteith)

Steep climbing in impressive caves with shade until 4pm. Sadly the 2 minute access to these caves was extended to 30 minutes when National Parks installed gates on either end of the access track.

Interestingly there is some evidence of previous abandoned interest in these caves. In the early 90s Kieran Loughran placed a a bolt above 'Tazer' and halfway up the wall to the left of 'Tazer'. Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins and Richard Smith did a few routes to the right of the big caves sometime in the 90s. Not as chossy as it looks apparently. It was at the same time they discovered Troopers Creek tavern so they called it the Local as a result. Halls Gap local Earl bouldered a few problems along the base in 2006. Dave Jones came in for a boulder in late 2007 but didn't make it back before Adam Demmert, Neil Monteith and Cath De Vaus found and dispatched the main routes!

The Rules. Don't EVER light fires at, or near this crag. It is too close to a very large farm. Camping in the caves is illegal - don't even think about it. If it's too cold bring more clothes or go somewhere else. Don't block this fireroad gate with your car. Parks Vic needs access to this area for larger trucks.

Access Issues:© (nmonteith)

The Rules. Don't EVER light fires at, or near this crag. It is too close to a very large farm. Camping in the caves is illegal - don't even think about it. If it's too cold bring more clothes or go somewhere else. Don't block this fireroad gate with your car. Parks Vic needs access to this area for larger trucks.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From Stapylton Campground drive west along Olive Plantation Road towards Northern Grampians Road. At 2.2km take the first major left (Winfields Rd) and drive down this for 4.3km and park at intersection of Cameron and Winfield Rd. Jump the gate on the olive plantation side of Camerons Road (East) and walk down this sand dirt road for 1.6km, then turn left onto road that continues to follow the fence around the plantation. Keep walking north along this fireroad for another kilometre until the big cave is visible on the right and a red tape mark on the fence. There should be an old carpark here. Follow very short bush track straight up to the cliff (2 minutes). The first cave you reach is the lesser Northern cave. Riding mountain bikes could reduce walk-in time considerably.

History:© (nmonteith)

Interestingly there is some evidence of previous abandoned interest in these caves. In the early 90s Kieran Loughran placed a a bolt above Tazer and halfway up the wall to the left of Tazer. Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins and Richard Smith did a few routes to the right of the big caves sometime in the 90s. Not as chossy as it looks apparently. It was at the same time they discovered Troopers Creek tavern so they called it the Local as a result. Halls Gap local Earl bouldered a few problems along the base in 2006. Dave Jones came in for a boulder in late 2007 but didn't make it back before Adam Demmert, Neil Monteith and Cath De Vaus found and dispatched the main routes!

1.1.12.16. The Ravine 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Long/Lat: 142.387531, -36.948791

Unique Features And Strengths:© (aca_admin)

One of the most popular easy sport crags in the Grampians.

Description:© (aca_admin)

One of the most popular easy sport crags in the 'Grampians'. A secret lush valley hidden away behind the olive plantation and only discovered with the help of Google Earth! This place is made for summer. There are two sides to the crag, the south facing shady vertical face and the north facing steep cave. The vertical face is in shade until 4pm in summer, the sport cave gets a little morning sun but is steep enough not to greatly affect the climbing. This is not a great place in winter as it doesn't get any sun at all.

The North Vertical Wall looks and climbs like a mix of Kentucky's Red River Gorge and the Blue Mountains. Because of the shady aspect there is quite a bit of lichen and moss on this wall, but the good routes climb the clean lines between these curtains of vegetation. Hopefully with a few more repeats these routes will become totally clean. The routes on the left side climb very nicely on polished orange rock with remarkable jugs, the right side routes are gritty and a little crumbly underfoot.

If it all gets too hot, there are several waist deep swimming holes 200m further up the ravine and some more minor ones downstream about 200m. They tend to be a bit stagnant in late summer. DO NOT SHIT ANYWHERE NEAR THE CREEK! (yes, some idiot had already done this.)

There has been some recent complaints from local bush walkers about the Ravine climbing area. Try and keep to these self-imposed rules when climbing here.

1. limit the numbers of climbers in your group (no more than 5?) No uni clubs, VCC trips etc.

2. no new routes

3. no toilet activities anywhere near the crag itself (and bury your paper!)

4. leave your cars parked at Stapylton camp if you have more than 1

5. be courteous to any non-climbers in the area

6. take out any rubbish you find (even if it isn't yours)

Access Issues:© (aca_admin)

Damage to the road has almost resulted in climbing at The Ravine being BANNED. Please do not drive past the gates, even if they are unlocked or open.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

From Stapylton Campground drive west along Olive Plantation Road towards 'Grampians' Road. Park at the first left turn after about a kilometre at a sandy hump with a gate. These locked gates were recently installed at either end of the sandy access track (February 2009) so now you have to walk (not drive) south for aprox 2.5 kms down the sandy fireroad the runs on the east side of the olive plantation (parallel to Winfield road, but further east). At the 2nd distinct sharp 90 degree bend walk 50m further to a 15m high cliffline (Truckstop Wall) and large boulders on the left side of the road. Locate yellow tape markers and follow gully up left from cliff line then head directly east up the gentle hill through thick bush. Eventually you will reach the top of the hill and get a clear view down onto the Ravine Crag (about 500m west). Follow cairns and red tape markers down the hill and trending right along the edge of the valley to reach the crag. Don't head straight down into the valley floor until the very last minute - it's a nightmare of thick vegetation! The last 50m of the track is pretty thick bush and you might get your feet wet if it has been raining! Cross the creek bed at right angles to hit the 'Northern Wall' on the left side. Skirt right along base of this for 100m to reach the first routes. Total walking time - 40 minutes including the easy road - a mountain bike would reduce the walk time in half. Mosquitoes lurk in the water holes - bring repellent if your girly scent attracts them!

Ethic:© (aca_admin)

This Ravine has been developed as a safe sport climbing venue. It has a plethora of bolts and rap anchors. All new routes should follow this example of nicely spaced and well installed equipment. Expect retro-bolts if your route is too runout! If you want to establish scary death routes please go elsewhere.

History:© (aca_admin)

Discovered by Neil Monteith with the help of Google Earth and a machete. All routes were bolted and climbed shortly after.

1.1.13. NE Mt Zero Range 65 routes in Crag

1

1 Golton Rocks

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.422464, -36.921605

Description:© (jgoding)

This area covers crags on the eastern flanks of the Mt. Zero range accessed from the Mt. Zero to Halls Gap Rd. At the North end, Iskra Crags are separately described because they're usually accessed from 'Hollow Mountain' car park. The southern extremity of this area is the Roses Gap Rd (with crags further south being covered under the Mt Difficult Range). Although 'The Rockwall' crag has conventionally been grouped under the Mt Difficult Range, it is included in this section for two reasons: (1) it is north of Roses Gap Rd; and (2) it is on the NW (Mt Zero) side of the main valley which divides the Mt. Zero range from the Mt Difficult Range.

Please note that until further notice camping in caves is not permitted by Parks 'Victoria'.

1.1.13.1. Golton Rocks 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.412976, -36.900508

1.1.13.2. Golton Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.13.3. Gog-Magog Crag 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.13.4. G-Land 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

1.1.13.5. Watchmen Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Description:© (jgoding)

A 20m high wall 5mins from the car. Most routes are on the main face but there are a few worthwhile ones to the left (facing the cliff from the road) too.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Located on a compact orange wall of very good quality, about 300m to the left (as you look at it from the Mt Zero-Halls Gap Road) of 'Cave Cliff'. This has it's own access from the low point in the road (starts behind a tree with a triple fork about head height). The track is well marked with yellow tape and leads directly to this cliff (the lowest, best looking one with Guano on it's left side – clearly visible from the road). Walking time 5mins.

1.1.13.6. Coppermine Track Cliff 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (willmonks)

A reasonably extensive cliff but broken in parts by terraces and rotten overhangs. It provides a few pleasant middle grade routes and has easy access. Wear a helmet as the rock is fairly crumbly in places.

Approach:© (willmonks)

From the Roses Gap/Mt Zero Rd, drive 1km NW along the Coppermine Track. The cliff is directly above. The walk is about 10 minutes. Routes described from Right to Left.

1.1.14. Mt Stapylton Campground 117 routes in Crag

651

1 Sentinel Cave, 5 Campground Boulders, 6 Titanic Boulder

Summary:

Trad,Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.390496, -36.926573

Description:© (nmonteith)

You gotta love the lazy option! Instead of driving to some far flung part of the 'Grampians' you can explore what is close to your coffee, tent and esky. This guide records the new development that has occurred in the hidden crags within walking distance of the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' in the Northern 'Grampians' of Western 'Victoria'. Most of the better routes are steep bolted sport routes or easy short wall climbs on trad protection. The rock is coarse with a similar feel to the Blue Mountains and has patches of utter choss. If you are climbing on trad then take extra care as many of these routes have had limited repeats. If you want to clip bolts then this area is a great place to start your 'Grampians' experience. Leave your bolt plates at home - almost everything here is ring-bolted.

Don't chip, don't litter, don't shit at the crag (use toilets at campground), don't swear near tourists, don't drill within earshot of the campsite and lastly respect the Aboriginal art site by keeping your grubby mitts off nearby rock.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

All these crags (apart from the bouldering) are accessed from a well worn track, but un-official, that leaves the south east corner of the Aboriginal Art Site carpark. Walk down the official loop track fro twenty metres before branching off to the right and into the bush. Within a few minutes you'll stumble upon the obvious free standing pillar of Mini 'Castle Crag'. The track to the other crags continues past this point (refer to map on this page).

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Homebrew Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of 'Lovedale'. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06. FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello, William Swinson, 2005	14	Trad 9m
2		Free Hangin 1 metre left of face with two FHs. Bridge between crack and sidewall, exit through the V break at the top of the crack. FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless, 2006	5	Trad 12m
3		Elizabeth The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+). FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001	16	Trad 10m
4		Hunter Valley Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete. FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001	12	Trad 12m
5		Sheila G Another mega line - not. Use boulder to start and gain arete, up to jugs and over. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007	5	Trad 12m
6		Philip The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'. FA: Jeremy Maddox, 2001	5	Trad 10m
7		Lovedale The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of 'Semillon'. FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001	14	Trad 10m
8		Rosehill Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming. FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001	17	Trad 10m
9		Battle of the Bulge The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006. FA: Trevor Wall, Meily Effendy, Leigh Colless and Chris Tamavic, 2007	15	Trad 12m
10		Semillon Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing. FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001	16	Trad 12m
11		Alpine Experience Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007	6	Trad 12m
12		Leigh's Right Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one. FA: Leigh Colless, Cameron Barrett, 2007	16	Trad 6m
13		Mumjoy In memory of Cameron's mother who died late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Begin as of 'Hunter Valley', traversing right into crack past FH. Follow crack line into roof, move out left under roof following crack to the top. Second may have a swing - two ropes might be useful. FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless and Chris Tamavic, 2006	18	Trad 12m
14		Kymba Contrived, with bolts right next to crack. Shallow cracks, right of fixed hangers, to pocket move to orange rock and straight up to finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006	16	Trad 12m
15		Project Single FH with red tag. FA: Cameron ect?, 2000		Trad 8m
16		Whinery Tour Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner. FA: Stu Dobbie, Jim Kane, Jack Lewis, 2005	14	Trad 20m
17		Abbren Crack line at far east end of cliff. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007	6	Trad 8m
18		If You’re Short, We Can Help Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break. FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello, 2005	17	Trad 8m
19		OP&OH The corner starting above the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up. FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001	14	Trad 12m
20		Topple Tor Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête. FA: Bedford, FA: Lyons, Gordon, FA: Gary, 2005	15	Trad 15m
21		The First Post Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top. FA: Gordon Bedford, Gary Lyons, 2005	9	Trad 12m
22		Aware Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top. FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005	16	Trad 12m
23		Cold At Dawn Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack. FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005	15	Trad 12m
24		Sentry Line On the eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from 'Aware'. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow, left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang. FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005	12	Trad 15m
25		Sentry Arête The right hand rib of the chimney. FA: Gordon Bedford, Gary Lyons, 2005	5	Trad 12m

1.1.14.1. Sentinel Cave 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport,Trad

Long/Lat: 142.389453, -36.932076

Description:© (nmonteith)

One of the more popular 'dry in any weather' venues for the mid grade sport climber. This is a large cave high up in the valley behind Stapylton campground with an easy flat walk-in. This area features short and very steep sport routes on coarse orange rock. A large viewing area makes this a fun place to hang out with a bunch of mates and watch the sun set whilst cranking some of the sweet routes. Be very careful on the access traverse into the cave, one slip and you're dead. In wet weather it is advised to rope up for the scramble traverse into the cave and exit by absieling back out of the cave.

Crag gets late afternoon sun in summer and full sun from midday in winter.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park at the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' aboriginal shelter carpark (Cave of Ghosts) which is south from the camping area. Walk south east following small track on the east side of a vegetated creek. A few minutes into the walk you will pass an isolated pillar of rock 'Castle Crag' with a few ok trad routes on it. Keep following the track, walking along flat ground amongst ferns with minor cliffs and boulders on your left. After 5 minutes the track goes into gumtrees, keep walking in the same direction on a vague track for another few minutes. Spot the cave itself in front and to the left a little up the hill in the distance.Try and locate some rock cairns and follow these left up a gentle hill. Follow left branch of 'creek' up small rock gully on the left side of the cave until you can traverse directly right across exposed rock to get into the cave. Two RB's are positioned along this traverse to use as an anchor to belay people who may be scared of the traverse. The ringbolt can also be used to abseil out of the cave when the traverse is wet from rain.

GPS - 36.55.900s, 142.23.372e

History:© (nmonteith)

Discovered by Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan in 2003 on a cold wet winters day of misery. Drills arrived shortly after.

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1.1.14.2. Sentinel Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Description:© (nmonteith)

A small vertical wall with two good warm-up sport routes, and some very average trad routes. This orange wall is located opposite 'Sentinel Cave', just 100m away on the other side of the access gully. Scramble across to the left side and up right onto a ledge where the two bolted routes are. The trad routes are further right. Afternoon sun.

1.1.14.3. The Guardhouse 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport

Description:© (nmonteith)

Home of the gritty sloper and the quick pump! A small, gently overhung amphitheater of rock with a couple of good Blue Mountains style sport routes. The orange wall is clearly visible on the hillside when driving in from the west past the olive grove. Pack a handful of draws and some forearms.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Refer to map one level up for access. Start the walk in as for 'Sentinel Cave'. After hopping over a big dead tree about 8 minutes into the walk, and past the last of the small cliffs on the left, turn left and follow small creek bed steeply uphill heading for the semi-obvious orange wall high on the hill. Some rock cairns and yellow tape mark the way, but there is no good track (yet). Once you get to the crag itself scramble up ledges on the right and walk left to small fixed rope to get to base of wall. You can scramble up the grade 1 left hand side of the crag to reach the top if you wish. Be careful, the rock is shit and it's exposed!

Total approach time is 20 minutes. Shade and breezes until 2pm in summer. Most routes stay dry in light showers - but after extended rain the seepage drains down 'Little George' and 'Ranger Danger'.

1.1.14.4. Warden Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (nmonteith)

Small featured wall on left side of track about 100m past Mini 'Castle Crag' on the walk in to 'Sentinel Cave'. These are short trad routes on good rock. Topropes are easy to setup. Afternoon sun.

1.1.14.5. Campground Boulders 38 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.387344, -36.921344

1.1.14.6. Titanic Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.391108, -36.910842

Description:

A couple of boulders along side the Mt Stapylton walking track

Approach:

Coming soon...

History:

Coming soon...

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1.1.14.7. Doddery Rock 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Description:© (nmonteith)

A very small plug of rock more suitable for bouldering than actual roped climbing. Ignoring that fact there are now 12 routes squeezed onto this 40 square metre block!

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Located about 40m before you reach the main 'Mt Pleasant' clifff line. There are climbs on all sides, so shade is possible all day. A bouldering mat could be more useful than a rope and rack.

1.1.14.8. Mt Pleasant 0 routes in Area

Description:© (nmonteith)

A small cliff within easy flat walking distance of the 'Mt Stapylton Campground'. The sort of thing you stumble across when killing time on a miserable wet weekend - and quite useful on those sorts of occasions. Only a few routes are actualy worth climbing here and some of the bolting is questionable (ie routes are contrived, short or bolts are right next to bomber trad)

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From the Aboriginal art site car park cross the creek (involves fighting through unpleasant thick new growth but is mercifully short) to the open flats beyond. Turn left and follow these flats for about 10 minutes to a small steep block distinguished by a large red overhang/cave across the front of the main buttress. The cliff has two prominent corner lines on its left side. The right hand one starts above the left end of the main cave and can be accessed from a handy block, this is OP&OH.

1.1.14.9. Sentry Wall 0 routes in Area

Description:© (nmonteith)

A very small gritstone-like crag with limited quality climbing. Can be padded out with some of the other smaller crags in the area to make a good day out.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Walk to Mini 'Castle Crag', then walk uphill eastwards up a broad gully through small rock terraces for about 150 metres to a small cliff with a narrow chimney near the left end. This is 'Sentry Wall'. Descent is either via the chimney, a gully due North of the chimney or at the southern end. Climbs are described from left to right.

1.2. The Black Range 235 routes in Region

12

1 Black Ians Rocks, 2 Mt Talbot

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.085690, -37.103498

1.2.1. Black Ians Rocks 104 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.103598, -37.002915

Ethic:

To protect Aboriginal art work at Black Ian's Rocks, the VCC requests that you do not boulder in the camping cave and avoid these three routes 'No Rest For The Wicked', 'Jump For Joy' and 'In The Cooler'. It would also be appreciated if climbers used the left hand cracks to start 'Traversity Of Justice' and 'Malicious Intent'.

For more information about the art, contact Alan Burns at the Goolum Aboriginal Co-op, 03 5382 5033.

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Who shot the Sheriff?	16	Trad 10m
2		Holler for a Marshall	18	Trad 10m
3		Aiding and Abetting	14	Trad 10m
4		Summons	15	Trad 12m
5		Royal Commission	11	Trad 12m
6		First Offence	13	Trad 11m
7		Detective Inspector Bribe-easy And Police Constable Porno	14	Trad 10m
8		Crime Story	19	Trad 10m
9		The Chair	12	Trad 10m
10		TCU	17	Trad 10m
11		Bring In The Accused	22	Trad 10m
12		Pleading Insane	23	Trad 10m
13		Jail Bait	20	Trad 10m
14		Shoot On Sight	19	Trad 10m
15		Night Stalker Gets Gas Chamber	23	Trad 10m
16		Snapper Crack	22	Trad 25m
17		So What's the Verdict?	23	Trad 20m
18		Settled out of Court	8	Trad 12m		scott mceachern 9 years ago Lead with rob 2nd (rob's first climb)
19		Settled out of Court Direct Finish	16	Trad 20m
20		A Brush With The Law	16	Trad 15m
21		Please Be Seated	13	Trad 15m		Gareth Graham 8 years ago Easy for the grade..Dirty up top
22		Rumpole	13	Trad 15m		Andrew Clark 4 years ago While nice, over before it began. I placed more gear building the belay than I did on the climb.
23		Ipso Facto	15	Trad 15m		Gareth Graham 8 years ago Scary pulling on a loose chockstone. Great layback makes up for it!
24		Slanderous Discourse	23	Trad 14m
25		Minor Offence	14	Trad 15m		Gareth Graham 8 years ago Funky bridging..don't use the tree dan! Daniel Moore 8 years ago Fun
26		G.B.H.	14	Trad 20m		Sabu 7 years ago very little gear, runut slab.. ok as a warm up.
27		Loitering with Intent	21	Trad 20m
28		Habeus Corpus	13	Trad 27m		Andrew Clark 3 years ago Retro flash. Not much too this. Cameron Roy 3 years ago With Dan Barry
29		Hard Labour	15	Trad 25m		Andrew Clark 3 years ago The gear on this was a lot thinner than I'd like to climb above. Neil Monteith 7 years ago onsight solo.
30		Bagatelle	12	Trad 27m		Andrew Clark 1 years ago Wasn't feeling very happy about this for some reason so I bailed. Phil Aarons 5 years ago Good gear all the way - fine at the grade
31		Bail Refused	15	Trad 30m		Neil Monteith 7 years ago Onsight solo. Steep and commiting finish. Gareth Graham 8 years ago Enjoyable jaunt..good gear
32		Sheep May Safely Graze	25	Trad 25m		. 12 years ago top was a wee bit dirty
33		The Willows Milkbar	23	Trad 25m
34		Murder One	23	Trad 25m
35		Mr Meaner	22	Trad 25m		Rebecca Hopkins 8 years ago Fell off on my 1st go just below the roof. On 2nd go I used the undercling in the roof and got it... James Scott-Bohanna 8 years ago fun should have led it
36		Short Term	20	Trad 15m
37		Breakout	10	Trad 19m
38		Blunt Instrument	17	Trad 12m
39		Pudgy	24	Trad 25m
40		Caveat Emptor	24	Trad 25m
41		Barbed Tongue	17	Trad 23m
42		Barbed Tongue Direct Finish	19	Trad 23m		adam demmert 2 weeks ago fun repeate John Lattanzio 9 years ago fantasic route, great finish
43		Red Tape	26	Trad 20m		Ramon Francis 6 years ago 2nd go
44		OK, I Confess	23	Trad 20m		Simon Madden 3 years ago Poor pro, glad I didnt lead it. Genevieve McKew 10 years ago totally cool sequence
45		The Jury Box	11	Trad 21m		Paul Badenoch 4 years ago Walking up chockstones covered in wet mulch was off-putting. Anthony 8 years ago Lead, Abe 2nd
46		Life and Death	23	Trad 25m
47		Zuma	21	Trad 25m		Neil Monteith 7 years ago yo-yo ascent after nick bailed at the crux move. Only did one jam - faced climbed around the rest...
48		Divorce Proceedings	24	Trad 20m
49		Prosecutor	18	Trad 27m		Gareth Llewellin 9 weeks ago Nice and steep feeling. with Jess and Andrew Andrew Clark 9 weeks ago Clean, but only just.
50		Fatal Attraction	18	Trad 30m
51		Persona Non Grata	23	Trad 25m
52		Life	24	Trad 25m		Neil Monteith 7 years ago Way slopey crux moves! Did this at night after leader took his time to solve crux. Safer Cliffs Victoria 7 years ago Re-bolted - May 2006
53		Decree Nisi	16	Trad 25m		Andrew Clark 1 years ago Shame the little crack at the top isn't longer. Nice thoughtful lead. Paul Badenoch 4 years ago Hard start, hard middle, hard finish.
54		Unfit to Stand	17	Trad 25m		Linton Henderson 9 years ago Manda 2nd Linton Henderson Manda 2nd
55		Caught Short	20	Trad 25m
Hide
		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
56		Gallows Pole	17	Trad 27m		Adam Clay 2 years ago hard at the grade Simon Madden 3 years ago Slippery little shit.
57		Chancery Lane	18	Trad 27m		Andrew Clark 4 years ago My hands are a little too fat for most of the crack lower down and I found this climb pretty hard... Andrew Scott 6 years ago Great fun.
58		Robbery, Assault and Battery	25	Trad 20m		adam demmert 2 weeks ago Fun climbing on the head wall. needs fixing up so its not a death route Will Monks 2 weeks ago top face is good but its dangerous getting there, needs a retrobolt. Copped a cam in the face try...
59		Final Appeal	17	Trad 30m
60		Crime of Passion	23	Trad 20m
61		Haley Beth	21	Trad 35m
62		Objection Sustained	18	Trad 21m		Simon Madden 2 weeks ago Great. adam demmert 2 weeks ago Fun repaet
63		Traversity Of Justice / Travesty of Justice	22	Trad 20m
64		Malicious Intent	21	Trad 23m		adam demmert 2 weeks ago Fun repeat Gareth Llewellin 9 weeks ago Feels a bit goey at the top with the lack of feet. Way better than it looks. with Jess and Andrew
65		Malicious Intent Variant Start	14	Trad 8m
66		No Rest for the Wicked To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.	23	Trad 27m		Megan 10 years ago Something fun to play on from the camping cave.
67		Jump for Joy To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.	23	Trad 22m
68		In The Cooler To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.	24	Trad 23m
69		Legal Aid	21	Trad 27m		adam demmert 2 weeks ago Not that great Will Monks 2 weeks ago cool start, cool finish, otherwise rubbish
70		The Hanging Slab	20	Trad 10m
71		Down By Law	24	Trad 20m		benjamin james eichler 6 years ago Worth a play. Take care.A little run out. Funky crux moves pulling onto slab. Neil Monteith 7 years ago Stupid bolting once again. Sport route doesn't equal 7m runout on loose rock. Bring trad gear!
72		Power Without Glory	19	Trad 23m
73		Power Without Glory Variant Start	16	Trad 12m
74		Carnal Knowledge	19	Trad 28m		Gareth Llewellin 7 years ago great moves, but crap pro where you want it. . 8 years ago fun.
75		In Session	18	Trad 16m
76		Guilty	22	Trad 20m		Linton Henderson 8 years ago Lead most of it thinking it was a different climb (19) and got Jez to run up a top rope to finish... . 8 years ago needles hard.
77		Law and Order	23	Trad 20m
78		Subpoena	17	Trad 21m		adam demmert 2 weeks ago Hardish for the grade but great fun. good to repeat Gareth Llewellin 9 weeks ago with Jess and Andrew
79		Street Legal	24	Trad 20m
80		Hang On	20	Trad 20m		Rebecca Hopkins 7 years ago Got it 2nd go after working the crux for a bit on the first go. Really nice climbing, very enjoya... Linton Henderson 8 years ago Jez lead. bold.
81		The Hanging	21	Trad 20m
82		Call the Next Witness Please	18	Trad 15m		Paul Badenoch 4 years ago Close to my coldest rock climb ever. James Scott-Bohanna 8 years ago a bit scetchy
83		Call the Next Witness Please Direct	20	Trad 25m
84		Mitigating Circumstances	20	Trad 20m
85		False Pretences	10	Trad 15m		Adam Clay 2 years ago Oscar's first route - in the Macpac Possum while I seconded Celia Gareth Llewellin 7 years ago onsight solo
86		The Enquiry	16	Trad 16m		Zac Howard 1 years ago shit fiddly pro and felt at least 3 grades harder then graded Andrew Clark 4 years ago Not sure I'd like to lead this. The guidebook says fiddly pro and I'd agree from what I saw.
87		Legal Eagle	24	Trad 15m
88		Doing Time	21	Trad 15m
89		Acquitted	16	Trad 12m
90		Press Gallery	17	Trad 12m
91		On Probation	10	Trad 12m
92		Operation Mindcrime	18	Trad 16m
93		Petty Sessions	17	Trad 18m		Gareth Graham 8 years ago Stuffed the start (too tired). Blew the onsight.
94		Petty Sessions Right Hand Variant	17	Trad 18m
95		Stool Pigeon	15	Trad 15m
96		The Long Arm of the Law	21	Trad 20m
97		The Dock	11	Trad 15m		Gareth Graham 8 years ago Mmm stiff!
98		The Dock Roof	17	Trad 20m
99		Itchy Fingers	24	Trad 15m		Tim Le 8 years ago Some of the smallest holds I've ever laid my tips on... benjamin james eichler 11 years ago very thin moves. A tricky clip of bolt
100		Scumbags of All Sorts	23	Trad 16m
101		Salubrial Incandescence	23	Trad 15m
102		Roger Mellie, Your Man on Tellie	16	Trad 10m
103		Arresting the Sheriff	10	Trad 10m
104		The Judges' Verdict	10	Trad 15m