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Table of contents

1. Grampians 7,325 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.376338, -37.265302

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some of the best climbing in a Australia in a beautiful environment, often in great solitude.

Description:

For many climbers, memories of the Grampians are like memories of paradise. The warm winter sun, breathtaking sunsets lighting up Taipan Wall and sore tips from hard days. The Grampians are beautiful and the climbing reflects this. The solitude, routes that offer variety and adventure, these are the hallmarks of the Grampians.

The Grampians offer some of the most spectacular and high quality climbing in Australia. The beautiful thing about the Grampians is that it offers so much choice, there is plenty of good easier climbing in fantastic locations, and also probably the best hard routes in the land. When you talk about climbing in the Grampians you are referring to a multitude of crags and thousands of routes. There are a core of popular crags regularly visited, then there are a host of areas that are lucky to be visited more than once a year. The most popular crags are the ones with a combination of good access and a large amount of top routes. Among the most popular areas are 'Mt Stapylton' (which incorporates a number of crags like the enormously popular 'Summerday Valley', 'The Ampitheatre' and 'Taipan Wall'), 'Mt Rosea' (loads of quality multipitch routes) and 'Bundaleer' (an intimidating summer crag). Apart from this there is a plethora of marginally less important crags, all of which offer fantastic climbing.

Sport climbing is limited in the Grampians (although what there is, is of fantastic quality), there are three or four main areas, 'The Gallery' (steep thuggery of perfect orange sandstone), 'Millenium Caves' (very steep flawless rock with committing runouts), 'Van Diemens Land' (great fun) and 'Spurt Wall' (funky fun at the end of 'Taipan Wall'). Sport climbing in the Grampians begins at grade 22, so you want to be fairly competent.

Like Arapiles the trad climbing is very good, and generally the gear is exceptionally solid, there is often the occasional bolt. The harder routes to tend to be mainly on bolts. While you are here it is essential to check out Taipan Wall, unquestionably the best piece of rock in the land.

Climbing in the Grampians is generally less accessible than Arapiles, you will need to have a partner (there is no meeting someone here, unless you are lucky) and a car to get around in. The one benefit of being less accessible is that the Grampians is more of a wilderness experience. Bouldering has recently exploded in the Grampians, and there are loads of great problems to be found, including some of the hardest in the world. Bouldering is a good option if you are here in winter. All up the Grampians is a wonderful place, deserving of a decent stay. You will love it!

Access Issues:

The northern part of the Park, including Mt Stapylton is currently closed to all access following the January 2014 fires. Check the Access Issues for each area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

National Park

Approach:

235km west of Melbourne. Driving is best. You can catch a train to Ballarat, then bus to Halls Gap. The only problem is that once you are there there is no way to get around unless you hire a car, or know someone that has one.

Where To Stay:

There are campgrounds throughout the Grampians. Most do have fees, but they are generally very reasonable.

Also a range of accommodation (cabins, B&B, backpackers, motels, etc) in Halls Gap and the other villages around the National Park.

1.1. North Grampians 2,710 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.408143, -37.055512

Access Issues:

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

1.1.1. Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre 457 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.386813, -36.898766

Description:© (nmonteith)

Much of this guide is based on Kieran Loughran's wonderful Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre print guide (1996). It has been updated by Neil Monteith and friends (2005-2007).

One of Australia's premier areas. A high concentration of quality routes of every variety. 'Taipan Wall' is world renowned for offering some of the most amazing steep orange sandstone routes around. The bouldering is also very popular.

Useful Info: Much of this guide is based on Kieran Loughran's wonderful Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre print guide (1996).

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Mount Stapylton is at the northern tip of the Grampians(Gariwerd), 30km south-east of Horsham. Train and bus services can get you to Horsham from 'Adelaide' or 'Melbourne' but after that you are on your own.

'Access' by car is easy. All but the last 4km is on sealed road and the unsealed road is negotiable in all weather conditions but care must be taken with corrugations, suicidal marsupials, emus and feral tourists. Hitching is not a good option because you'll probably have to walk a few kilometres and end up isolated in an empty camp-ground a long way from anything.

From 'Melbourne', follow the Western 'Highway' towards Horsham, passing through Ararat, Stawell and Dadswell's Bridge, until you're 11km past Dadswell's Bridge and just after the 269km post. Turn left and continue for 6½km, turn left (signpost Mt Zero) onto a dirt road. After 1.2km turn right (signposts Flat Rock 2.5, Mt Zero 1) and follow the road for 2½km to the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area.

From Horsham, follow the Western 'Highway' towards 'Melbourne' for 19km, 4km

past Green Lake, turn right (signpost to Laharum). Follow the road south for 8km, turn left (signpost Flat Rock 6), after 3 km turn right (signpost Mt Zero) onto a dirt road. After 1.2km turn right (signposts Flat Rock 2.5, Mt Zero 1) and follow the road for 2½km to the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area.

The lone visitor can normally find climbers in the carpark at 'Hollow Mountain' on any weekend...but not always! During the week you may get lucky but are more likely to strike youth groups and corporate team-builders. If you have no organised partner, your best option is to go to Mount 'Arapiles' first to make some contacts.

History:© (nmonteith)

While the Amphitheatre is one of the important climbing areas in 'Victoria', development has been sporadic.

When the area was discovered in the mid-sixties there was an intense period of development that culminated in one of the most intense months in Victorian climbing history.

In the four weeks from 23rd April to 18th May 1966, Mike Stone, Ian Guild, Chris Dewhirst and Gary Kerkin put up 'Spillway', 'Simpleton' and Seventh Pillar. In that same month this group, minus Gary Kerkin but with John Moore also added 'Scorpion' and 'Skink' at 'Arapiles'. These were the hardest, most serious climbs around, done in one brief period by a small group.

It's hard to appreciate what it was like in the sixties. Even in the mid-70s it was possible to arrive at 'Arapiles' on a mild summer weekend and find only five people there. 'Arapiles' was popular, Stapylton was not and, with the sixties, we are talking a decade earlier: we are talking isolation.

Contemplate placing the bolt runner on 'Simpleton', jamming your head in the crack to free both hands for drilling, or climbing hand-over-hand up a knotted rope to regain the first belay of Seventh Pillar or standing around in hard rubber while hand-drilling the bolts on Spillway? It's quite sobering.

Things were pretty quiet in the early seventies. Andrew Thomson added some aesthetic(?) bolt-laddders to 'Lower Taipan Wall' and combined with Kim Carrigan to free 'Clicke Crack' and dramatically reduce the aid on Seventh Pillar. Dave Mudie freed 'Simpleton' and contributed Seventh Banana to 'Taipan Wall'. John Chapman freed 'Spillway'.

Thomson and Carrigan's one-day ascent of Seventh Pillar in 1975 was no great shakes by the standards of the day. That is in theory. In reality this climb had people intimidated. The general steepness and atmosphere clobber aspirants to the present day. It was an indication of things to come from Carrigan.

Glenn Tempest and Kevin Lindorff had a spree in the Amphitheatre in April and May of 1977. They didn't break new ground in terms of grades but, in two weekends, they brought Stapylton into the modern era. 'Benn Gunn' and 'Asterisk' free, 'Starstruck', 'Technical Ecstasy', 'Sweet Dreams' and 'Atomic Tadpole' seemed to open the gateway, but it was not to be. Why? Because they weren't into rap-bolting or inspection in those days and obvious protectable climbs were exhausted.

At this time abseil bolting of routes was not common. Abseil bolting first appeared in 'Victoria' at Hanging Rock in the late sixties and did not catch on. Andrew Thomson reintroduced the concept when he did 'Swinging' at 'Arapiles' in April 1976 and it was quite controversial. When Tempest and Lindorff did their routes in the Amphitheatre, they were rejecting the use of chalk as unethical, let alone rap-bolting! This looks funny now, but it was taken quite seriously at the time. I suppose it has shades of British mountaineering in the thirties when crampons were rejected as unethical. Anyhow, Tempest and Lindorff set a new standard at the crag and then left it. Curiously, when Lindorff revisited Stapylton in the early eighties with a revised bolting ethic, he ignored his old stamping-ground in favour of Summer Day Valley.

At the start of the Eighties, Carrigan and I crossed from Summer Day Valley to The Amphitheatre to cut Seventh Pillar to one aid point (Carrigan did the work and dragged me up after him). At the end of the day we walked the length of 'Taipan Wall' and could see no more free propositions; quite hilarious in retrospect. I don't suppose Kim was having me on?

Anyhow, among other things, Carrigan put up 'The Great Divide', Matheson did 'Serpentine', Monks freed Seventh Banana and Pollitt did every climb on the wall as well as adding Rage, the direct version of 'Serpentine'.

'Taipan Wall' is far and away the highlight, but much of the rest is also deserving of your attention. Enjoy.

1.1.1.1. Northern Wall 23 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.382153, -36.892992

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The Northern Walls offer a wide variety of climbs with a few being outstanding. While some of the cliffs do not look particularly attractive at first sight, don't let that put you off. These steep walls offer good wall climbing and a couple of weird grooves. There's not a bad climb here, but some are quite unusual and not to everyone's taste. Whatever else you do, don't miss out on 'Trident'.

The cliffs are shaded much of the time but get sun on summer mornings (as shown in the topo below, taken at 8:30 AM). It's a good spot for mild to warm days but it is quite sheltered so can get humid and sticky.

Approach:© (willmonks)

This is the line of cliffs on the Northern extremity of the Amphitheatre, being the southern side of Wudjub Guyan (Hollow Mountain). The left side is above 'Epsilon Wall' and eventually becomes Kindergarden at the far left (West) end. The right side terminates at the major gully which separates the Northern Walls from 'Central Buttress'. 'Access' by walking into the Amphitheatre for about 150m past 'Epsilon Wall', then taking a well trodden sandy track up left towards 'Central Buttress', then walking back left along the base. The Northern Walls can also be accessed via Kindergarden, but this is slower, has scrambly bits and is verging on bushbashing at times.

The best descent from climbs in this area is by abseil. Two ropes are usually required. In the past the main descent, was a 40 metre abseil from the tree above Zola. The chain has been removed to prevent damage to the tree from ringbarking and climber movement around the tree. An anchor left of 'Trident' serves the climbs in that area (35m). There is another anchor at the top of 'Germinal' (30m)

The major gully to the right of the Northern Walls does not deserve it's title of Amphitheatre Descent 'Gully' because it is highly dangerous and 100% NOT recommended. Originally noted by the Gledhills as being "dangerous at night", this gully is dangerous even in broad daylight and fine weather!! It is often wet and features awkward chimneys, greasy slabby sections and difficult sections with dangerous landings. In recent years, broken glass has become a real hazard. There are few abseil anchors and it is not possible to abseil the gully in one rope length. At least one accident in this gully has resulted in serious head injuries. In short, it's far better to traverse from the top of your route of choice to one of the numerous abseil anchors.

In a break with tradition from previously published guidebooks, climbs below are described from RIGHT to LEFT - after all, this is how you approach them. Your first good reference point is the major splitter line of 'Germinal', just L of the big gully.

1.1.1.2. Central Buttress 29 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.383756, -36.893250

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

'Central Buttress' is the big somewhat scrappy looking area extending right from the Amphitheatre 'Gully', until the cliffline breaks down into a gully before the Grey & Green Walls. It offers a wide variety of climbs with a few outstanding classics. While some of the cliffs do not look particularly attractive at first sight, don't let that put you off. The highlight of this area, and the best section of the entire Amphitheatre apart from 'Taipan Wall', is the recess containing 'Simpleton', 'Missing' and 'Technical Ecstasy'.

'Central Buttress' is in the shade until early afternoon. 'Simpleton' gets sun only on summer evenings. An early start on a hot day can see you up a good climb before the heat of the afternoon. The climbs left of 'Simpleton' appear grey and amorphous but are generally quite steep and more difficult than appearances suggest.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the walking track from Flat Rock down into the Amphitheatre for about 150m past 'Epsilon Wall', avoiding any right-hand turns. Follow a faint pad on the left to soon arrive below the Amphitheatre 'Gully'. 'Central Buttress' extends from here to your right.

Descent: Descend via the abseil near 'Simpleton' or the 'Hollow Mountain' walking track towards Summer Day Valley (return into the Amphitheatre is then possible by walking beneath Amnesty, Clicke, Kindergarden and Northern Walls areas). Avoid the horrible dangerous Amphitheatre 'Gully' (which I refuse to call by its traditional name of "the descent gully"!). Parties with novice climbers are strongly advised to use the walking track for descent.

'Simpleton' Abseil Route: This is the only abseil descent from this area, and allows the awful Amphitheatre 'Gully' to be avoided, but it has its own hazards. If you have two 50m ropes, you need to use the old anchors: from the top of 'Simpleton' (near a lonely 4m pine tree), move out to the front of the cliff and scramble down 5 metres to the chains, the scramble is fairly easy but very exposed - one snapped hold or foot slip and you're facing a death fall. If in doubt, keep the rope on. Have slings ready to clip into the anchors, which are now worryingly rusty. It is a 50 metre abseil, and the first 40 metres are free hanging. Abseil ends on long ledge at the base of 'Missing'. Either scramble down the initial slabs of 'Technical Ecstasy' or do a further short abseil from trees. If you take novices on this descent (not recommended) you must be able to rescue them if they get stuck on the long free abseil section. On a pragmatic note, remember that belaying a novice on descent can take just as long as simply walking off.

In May '09 a new anchor was added at the top of the 'Simpleton' corner, and this can be accessed much less dangerously than the original anchor because you don't need to do the scary 5m downclimb. To use this new anchor you need two 60m ropes.

Climbs are described from left to right.

1.1.1.3. Sabre Gully 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.384617, -36.893743

1.1.1.4. Grey and Green Walls 34 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.385229, -36.894367

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The great slabby walls left of 'Taipan Wall' are The 'Grey and Green Walls'. The smooth grey buttress on the left is, of course, 'The Grey Wall' while the mossy slab to the right is 'The Green Wall'. A smooth 15-20 metre high wall, the 'Petite Fleur' Face, runs along the foot of the cliffs.

There is a lot of good climbing on these walls, but many of the climbs aren't consistent. For instance, 'Sluice' has only two metres of grade 18 climbing in close to 100 metres. The original climbs are described but are sometimes included in composite climbs that are much more worthwhile. The contribution of the pioneers is not discarded but incorporated and acknowledged in more enjoyable climbs.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Access this area by traversing the base of the cliffs either from the right end of 'Central Buttress' or from the left end of 'Taipan'.

The safest descent from the longer climbs is to walk south along the cliff-tops to meet the walking track to the top of Mt Stapylton and follow this track back into The Amphitheatre. Parties with novices are strongly advised to use this descent.

Alternatively, if you have two ropes, use the abseil descent down 'Navarre' which is 2 long (45-50m) abseils. This is difficult to locate from above unless you already know where it is. Novices will require supervision on this abseil. The first abseil is about 10 metres below the top, just left of a large cave. The first abseil is free hanging at times and you need to veer to abseiler's right so as to land on the terrace at the top of the first pitch of 'Navarre'.

Finally, the 'Hollow Mountain' walking trail can be gained by walking and scrambling north along the tops, which makes for quite a fun adventure though some may want to rope up for some of the chasm crossings.

'Petite Fleur' Face is described first, then the Grey Wall, then the Green Wall. The climbs in each sub-area are described from left to right.

1.1.1.5. Taipan Wall 86 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 142.385454, -36.896140

Description:© (willmonks)

(a) Before you leave the car, please try to poo in the toilets at Flat Rock car park; and

(b) if you need to poo while at the crag (which should be rare if you adhere to (a)!), then please walk at least 50m (no, 10m from the base of the crag is NOT ok!) and make sure you bury your poo and paper.

(c) do not burn your paper. Visiting Americans and Euros bringing this practice with them start bushfires all too often - the Australian bush is highly flammable!

It's a shame we have to start with the above, but unfortunately the popularity of this great crag is having some side effects caused by those who are happy to shit in their own nest. Don't stuff it for the rest of us!

Now onto the good news. 'Taipan Wall' is widely considered to be the best single crag in 'Australia', and many climbers consider that it ranks up there amongst the very best crags in the world. It is certainly the most outstanding climbing feature of the Grampians: a 200m long, overhanging wall up to 60 metres high, which positively glows a stunning orange in the evening sunshine. And the wall doesn't only have good looks: the climbs themselves are almost all of incredibly high quality. While a number of climbs unfortunately require a bolt for aid or have a crux move that is grades harder than anything else on the climb, the climbs are nevertheless generally magnificent.

Because of the uniformly excellent quality of the climbing, previous guides have used "Taipan stars", which effectively involved deducting a star from most routes and only giving 3 stars to those particularly sublime routes which push for the mythical 4th star! In a break with that tradition, this guide gives stars wherever they're deserved - and 'Taipan' deserves plenty! To help you work out what is the absolute cream of the crop, look out for the group of "Taipan's Top 5": Daedalus, Cardigan St (pitch 2), 'Feather Boa', 'Serpentine', and 'World Party' (pitch 3). It could have also been a "Top 7" because Mr Joshua and 'The Seventh Pillar' are right up there too.

Despite a reputation of being largely inaccessible to moderate climbers, the truth is that if you climb in the low 20s there are many days' worth of truly fantastic climbing to be had. In this regard it is worth remembering that, at times when difficult multi-pitch routes are all a bit too much, many of the hard classics have excellent easier first pitches. In particular, the following pitches are highly recommended, and have rap anchors:

'Sordid Orchids' p1 (** 20m 25);

Seventh Banana p1 (** 20m 23);

~Sirocco p1 (* 20m 21);

'Medusa' p1 (* 40m 25);

~Seventh Pillar LHV (* 45m 23);

Seventh Pillar LHV (short version) (* 28m 22);

~Serpentine p1 (* 35m 24);

Naja p1 (** 30m 27);

'World Party' p1 (* 20m 21);

Mr Joshua p1 (* 30m 25);

~Kaa p1 (20m 23).

(The ~ symbol indicates pitches which must be seconded because they traverse too much to allow rap-cleaning).

Note that a 60m rope is required to lower off many routes, and longer ropes are often very handy. A 100m rope has even been used to work Father O from the ground! In any event, you often need every metre of your rope to lower off, and you're often trying to land on a ledge, so there is a real chance of ending up dangling in space or worse. Take careful note of the rap length and pitch length information provided against each route, and tie a knot in the end of your rope.

Because most routes have slopers and/or smooth holds, bear in mind that temperature and humidity conditions have a strong bearing on route difficulty. The wall has shade until 1-2pm so generally speaking, depending on the forecast daily maximum temperature, you should plan as follows:

>35C: climb elsewhere

28-35C: make a very early start and expect to be roasted off by noon

23-27C: exploit the mornings, but may be ok to carry on in the afternoon sun

17-22C: prime 'Taipan' conditions. Go hard!

<17C: Morning shade will be cold, afternoon sunshine will be glorious, although limited to only a few hours in winter.

'Taipan' is a good venue on days of light showers, but is not great if it really rains. Despite the large areas of always-dry orange rock, the grey & black lichen streaks will seep. The black streaks can develop a surprisingly strong trickle if there's been decent rainfall, due to the fairly large slabs above which drain down these lines. Also, despite the majority of the crag being overhung, the prevailing southwest winds tend to bring rain into the base onto packs and belayers. Plus, if its anything more than passing showers then the humidity will make all the slopers seem harder to hold on to! And don't count on a retreat to 'Spurt Wall' - despite the huge rooves protecting it from direct rain, it has an amazing ability to soak up moisture and all the crimps become disgustingly spoodgy. So, 'Taipan' is a good choice on days of light showers, but if rain sets in you're better off going somewhere shorter, steeper and thuggier.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Drive to Flat Rock carpark and walk up Flat Rock (noting the difference between "flat" and "horizontal"!). Follow the track down into the Amphitheatre and across the flats. About 300m into the Amphitheatre the track starts to rise again and here the first boulders are met on the left (Trackside Bouldering Area), at this point leave the main track and head left. Follow this track uphill through the boulders for 100 metres or so to a tall boulder on the left with a prominent arete. From here the path up to 'Taipan Wall' is nowadays a well trodden highway, and meets the base of the cliff between 'The Great Divide' and Seventh Banana.

Descents: for climbs on the left half of the wall (i.e. all routes left of, and including, Serpentine), the descent is by a 40 metre abseil from the top of 'Clean Sweep'. Anchors atop other routes (such as 'Divided Years', Father O, Cardigan St and Mirage) are either unsafe to access from above or are poorly arranged for rope pulling, so the 'Clean Sweep' anchor is the only option. It is recommended to get your bearings beforehand (e.g. from the top of Flat Rock) as the anchor can be a little tricky to find from above. Traversing along the top of the wall to this anchor is quite exposed, particularly the section above Father O. While some people opt for the scary traverse on the very edge of the clifftop, this is not trivial above Cardigan St and the fall potential could hardly be worse. The better option is probably to stay about 12m back up from the clifftop above Cardigan St and Father O but this is still quite exposed so take care, and if in doubt rope up. Once you're at the 'Clean Sweep' abseil anchor, make sure to test-pull the ropes before the last person comes down because the ropes regularly get jammed on this abseil. Hint: the last person should step to abseiler's left to avoid laying the ropes in the offending groove on the lip. Right of 'Serpentine' it is not safe to walk unroped along the clifftop, and descent details are specified against each individual route below.

1.1.1.6. Spurt Wall 29 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.385889, -36.897367

Description:© (nmonteith)

The highest concentration of hard routes in 'Victoria' and certainly the most popular sport crag in the 'Grampians'. Packed into a relatively short area and overshadowed by 'Taipan Wall' this well developed wall is full of hard slopy sustained test pieces. For many Europeans this is their entire experience of climbing in the 'Grampians' - which is a bit of a shame really. Like all true sport crags this place is all about the moves not the aesthetics of the routes. If you have issues with chalk and bolts than steer a wide path around this piece of modern cragging. The bottom of the crag is a very eroded sandy ramp so bring a good rope matt or suffer the consequences. Stick-clips litter the ground, use them to either aid your way up the respective project or to protect your ankles from snapping before the first bolt. Be warned - on some of the routes the longest stick still won't reach between the bolts!

'Excellent', although greasy in summer, bouldering is spread along the left hand end of Spurt. Some of the problems are starts to routes, but many are their own unique adventures. Big positive pockets and long dynos are very popular. Bring a good matt and something to clean your shoes from the endless sand.

Please don't treat this area as just 'another sport crag'. Don't leave blue tarps at the base, remove all rubbish including finger tape and try and minimize chalk use. This crag has been trashed by sheer numbers and is a very clear reminder of the impact climbers can create. Please try and minimize human created destruction - our access to this crag depends on it.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Spurt Wall is separated from the rest of 'Taipan Wall' only by a state of mind. The wall begins to build just right of the 'ramp' boulder that leans against the start of Invisible Fist. As you walk past the end of the boulder traverse you encounter the first of these routes. The first starts underneath the ledge that Mr Joshua starts from.

The photo below is of Jake Bresnehan on 'Lifestyling' (32).

1.1.1.7. Bouldering Buttress 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.387029, -36.899052

Description:© (willmonks)

This remote area high up on the right-hand end of 'Taipan Wall' is a remarkable piece of rock architecture forming a lovely little glade, that is well worth a visit just for its unique setting and atmosphere. The main part of the cliff is superb orange/yellow stone up to about 30 metres high and perhaps 10 metres overhung and in terms of architecture it is at least as impressive as 'Sandinista' Wall. Unfortunately the awe inspiring territory is all incredibly blank. Nevertheless, there are a couple of enjoyable climbs at either end.

Approach:© (willmonks)

The best walk in is probably via the tourist track past 'Lower Taipan Wall' all the way around to the Plaza Strip (as described on The Plaza Strip page). From there, walk L along the terrace under the big roof of Hip Bath. About 80m L of Hip Bath there is a weakness in the line of roofs, solo up this (an undercut jughaul into a short corner, take care), and you're at the base of the very obvious and impressive 'Bouldering Buttress'. This approach keeps you on the well-graded tourist track except for the last 100m or so, and avoids the long stumble past 'Trackside', 'Taipan', Spurt and Afterglow areas.

If you do want to approach via 'Taipan', follow 'Taipan Wall' R past 'Spurt Wall' and past 'Afterglow Wall' for another 50m or so until you reach the same weakness in the line of rooves as described above.

The 'Bouldering Buttress' terrace can also be gained by climbing the first 8m of 'Evil Elf' at the Plaza Strip and then walking easily L from there. Once again, it's no fun to solo.

1.1.1.8. Lower Taipan 57 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.384838, -36.899480

1.1.1.9. Afterglow Wall 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.386259, -36.898104

1.1.1.10. Afterglow Boulders 6 routes in Field
Summary:
All Boulder
1.1.1.11. The Plaza Strip 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.387512, -36.899284

Description:© (willmonks)

A remote area tucked away at the far Southern end of Mt Stapylton, but handily right near the summit tourist track. The routes are generally thin and a little steep, or gritstone like. A great place for a hot summers afternoon if you can handle the long approach walk. A good way to combine all day shade is to climb at Taipan/Spurt in the morning then walk right to Plaza Strip for the afternoon - it's only about 100m from 'Afterglow Wall' to the Plaza Strip (hint: hug the base of the cliffs R from 'Afterglow Wall', following the terrace 10-15m above the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering, and in no time you'll emerge from beneath the big roof of Hip Bath).

Approach:© (willmonks)

Refer to map one level up! Walk up Flat Rock and then past 'Lower Taipan Wall' on tourist track, continue up slab then follow tourist track as it hooks 180' back left and heads towards Mt Stapylton summit. When the track turns right, bush bash in for 50m to cliff. Alternative access is to walk directly right from 'Spurt Wall', past 'Afterglow Wall', to the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering cave. Another 50m right and above is this crag. It's only 20m from the tourist track. If you end up lost, follow the tourist track to the summit, and if you end up traversing left under a big chossy cave, you are actually walking above the crag. Walk back to find it. Shade after midday.

1.1.1.12. The Snake Pit 18 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.383801, -36.897952

1.1.1.13. Snakepit 0 routes in Field
1.1.1.14. Trackside Boulders 69 routes in Field
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.384657, -36.896121

Description:© (Hatsu)

[Topo's are in 1st draft stage] As the name suggests, it is on the trackside when you are heading towards the summit of Mt. Stapylton, as well as trackside if you are heading 'Taipan' wall.

Various boulders requiring different skills including monos, to the highball problem.

Fairly good landing for most of this area.

Approach:© (Hatsu)

Take the walking track from Mt Zero carpark and continue over Flat Rock, past 'Epsilon Wall'. Continue straight along the main track past the "Mt. Stapylton 1.7Km" sign. The boulders appear alongside the track soon afterwards.

PDF bouldering map of this area is on its way.

1.1.1.15. Citadel 21 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:© (boardlord)

As for 'Between the Sheeps', but instead of branching left off the main track, continue along the main path as for Stapylton summit. Prior to the track ascending the gully (and opposite a vertical wall adjacent to the path) - take a right turn through the dense bush (track) to emerge at the 'Citadel'.

1.1.1.16. Ground Control Caves 16 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.385600, -36.894903

Description:© (boardlord)

3 caves that sit up above and just right of the 'Grey & Green Walls' (see current 'Grampians' Select Guide). 'Access' either via the rugged summit walking track starting from 'Echoes Block' area, or via the much longer (but less exposed) tourist track from the Mt Zero carpark - heading towards Stapylton Summit.

1.1.1.17. Cave Club 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:© (boardlord)

Take the walking track up from the Mt Zero carpark, and continue all the way past Lower 'Taipan' Wall/Emu Rock etc towards Mt Stapylton summit. Just before the track winds its way to the very summit - skirt left around the escarpment to find the cave containing these 4 problems. Connoisseur's of the V10 market reportedly should not miss out on the problem of the same name.

1.1.1.18. Between the Sheeps 19 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.387000, -36.899509

Description:© (boardlord)

An exposed and very steep venue located on the far righthand end of the Mt Stapylton massif. 'Access' by taking the walking track from the Mt Zero carpark, then all the way past 'Taipan' Lower/Emu Rock. When the path branches in 2, take the left path (as for Stapylton summit/Cave Club/The Citadel) and continue along for a further 30 seconds. A vague path then leads straight through the bush to the cliffline (visible from the main path). All the problems are steep (roof) following sharp pockets/edges - with some finishes quite exciting due to the 30ft slab which resides beneath the terrace.

1.1.1.19. Spurt Wall (Bouldering) 7 routes in Area
Summary:
All Boulder
1.1.1.20. The Titanic (Bouldering) 11 routes in Area
Summary:
All Boulder

1.1.2. Flat Rock 89 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.377744, -36.894022

1.1.2.1. The Play Pen 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.376640, -36.892573

Description:© (willmonks)

Supposedly an area for novices to top-rope and abseil... but they will be FAR better off going to Summer Day Valley, 'Bellerophon Wall' or Arapiles! It is very short, has little atmosphere and is a haven for mosquitoes. It is of no interest to recreational climbers, except perhaps for an interesting scramble up the full length of the gully if needing to fill time. No descriptions will be reproduced here.

The routes mentioned go from left to right and were done by Aidan Banfield and friends in the eighties.

The Teddy Bear 6m 1

The Wise Old Rag Doll 6m 2

Sand Pits And 'Gravel Rash' 6m 3

The Rattle 7m 3

'The Play Pen' Play Mate 7m 3

The Dolls Play With Guns 8m 4

Approach:© (willmonks)

Walk into the large gully at the back of the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area to the sulphurous dam that thankfully is no longer used for water supply. This is about 30m to the R of the Flat Rock walking trail. The "cliff" is on the left as you look upstream. The "climbing" area starts 2 metres left of the dam and extends upstream. Scramble anywhere in this area.

1.1.2.2. West Flank 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.375716, -36.893959

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The crag faces west and gets sun in the afternoon. Climbs are described from left to right.

Approach:© (willmonks)

It's about 150m south of the Flat Rock / Mt Zero carpark and picnic area, and only about 60m from the road heading south (i.e the road going towards Pohlner's Track and Stapylton campground). Park on the side of that road if you're really lazy. The left side of the wall is obvious: impressive yellow overhanging choss. All of the existing climbs are right of this overhanging section and are best approached by walking straight in from the dirt road (which is obvious from the photo below).

1.1.2.3. Bellerophon Wall 32 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.379002, -36.892530

Description:© (nmonteith)

The pickings on this wall are quite respectable. There are a few pumpy things down the left end, some reasonable easier climbs in the middle of the crag and a collection of good, thin face routes on the right wall of 'Bellerophon'. In the past this cliff was known as Flat Rock East Flank. There are abseil anchors/DBBs in place above Bellerophon and Thapsus.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

It is a long, low cliff that runs pretty much parallel to the walking track up Flat Rock. Start up Flat Rock and cut across left to the cliff. A short orange corner at the left end of the cliff called, amazingly enough, 'The Short Orange Corner' and a major corner further right, 'Bellerophon', are good landmarks.

The rock mostly faces west and is in shade to early afternoon but the right wall of 'Bellerophon' faces north and is in sun much earlier. It's a terrible place in late summer when the stored heat of Flat Rock radiates onto it. Descend by double rap rings above 'Bellerophon' or a long walk down via an easy scramble just left of the short orange corner at the far left end of the cliff. A DBB/Abseil anchor services the area around Voyage of Discovery. The climbs are described from left to right.

1.1.2.4. Epsilon Wall 22 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.380783, -36.893857

Description:© (nmonteith)

This shady wall is on the left as you reach the top of Flat Rock. It has a few good examples of both trad, sport and mixed climbing as well as some very serious climbs at a spread of grades. The shockingly wide corner crack is 'Epsilon Plus'. The wall left of 'Epsilon Plus' offers good thin face climbs and some cracks of less distinction. Right of 'Epsilon Plus' is the frightening arete of 'New Imperative' and several attractive corners.

Up right from these climbs is the 'Skippy' Terrace, which has a few more good routes and is a good place on a warm day.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

The cliff faces SSE and is in complete shade for much of the year. It gets early morning sun in summer and often catches breezes from the top of Flat Rock. This can be a pleasant spot on a warm day but it is a miserable place in winter.

For the first 9 routes, please do NOT walk directly up from the walking track to the base of 'Epsilon Plus'. The hillside here is steep and sandy and erodes easily. Instead please approach these climbs from well to the left, traversing in across slabby ledges from Flat Rock, as shown by the red lines in some of the topos below.

For the first 7 routes, descend via rap chain (18m) directly above Iron In The Soul. The 'Benn Gunn' area is served by a double ring bolt rap anchor above 'Crossfire' (22m). There's also a shitty descent down an awkward scramble past old graffiti at the left end (50m left of Mistaken Identity).

1.1.2.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering 11 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.381176, -36.893957

Description:© (boardlord)

Take the walking track up from the Mt Zero carpark and continue to the top of Flat Rock. When the track drops down into the treeline, continue approximately 40m further until the track goes along the base of the 'Benn Gunn' Buttress of 'Epsilon Wall'. You'll be alongside an isolated boulder on the right, and the track takes a slight turn rightwards here. The wall is located up on a ledge to the left, beneath the X=X Area (aka 'Skippy' Terrace) of 'Epsilon Wall'. Either scramble up the slab (about grade 5) beneath 'Crossfire', or walk into the forest to where you can easily access the ledge system up and left.

1.1.2.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.378792, -36.895284

Description:© (willmonks)

A fairly ordinary little area on the southeast side of Flat Rock, south of 'Epsilon Wall'. There are a couple of pleasant climbs for a mild spring or autumn afternoon.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the marked track almost to the top of Flat Rock, to where it swings left towards 'Epsilon Wall'. Continue straight up to the top of Flat Rock. Follow easy ramps rightwards (SSW) down the southeast side of Flat Rock to where a large pinnacle sits in front of an easy-angled slab (which is part of Flat Rock). The left side of the slab is bounded by a very easy corner crack. The rock is generally appalling apart from the slab, and most of the climbs lack appeal.

Descend to the right of the climbs or by rappel when possible. Climbs are described from right to left.

1.1.3. Mount Zero 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.370977, -36.886042

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

'Mount Zero' is the northernmost outcrop in The 'Grampians'. Its many outcrops look promising from the road but, in general, that's the best place to stay. 'Sport Crack' and 'Ephemeral Lakes' are of interest to sport climbers and 4 'Cornered' Crag offers reasonable easy climbs. That's about it.

Actually, I lied about staying in the car. The tourist track to the summit of 'Mount Zero' is most enjoyable. At the top, it's heartening to see that some environmentally-conscious people have pinned the summit together so that it doesn't fall apart on us.

Incidentally, 'Mount Zero' was named by Thomas Mitchell in 1836 because the temperature was 32 fahrenheit at dawn on the morning of the ascent. I thought that this was a bit weird but Mitchell was scientifically-minded so his thermometer was marked in Celsius but he had to report to his English masters in Fahrenheit (good German name). Maybe he had a sense of humour, despite his reputation for being pompous.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Start your journey at the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area. If you can't find 'Mount Zero', go home.

1.1.3.1. Descartes Edge 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the walking track toward the summit from the Flat Rock carpark. The track passes a steep wall then divides. One arm goes up and passes through a chimney and the other stays low and rejoins the route after the chimney. The two routes rejoin about 10m beyond the chimney where there is a small edge with a nice line.

1.1.3.2. Pangaea Walls 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.373624, -36.884860

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

A collection of buttresses on the north-east slopes of 'Mount Zero' with a couple of good hard routes, another couple of reasonable easy climbs and a lot of choss.

Most of the routes here have their starts initialled in case they get lost (no great loss for the most part). This area was burnt-out in early 1996 so is probably heavy with regrowth by now.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Either park near the sweeping bend as you proceed from the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area to the 'Hollow Mountain' quarry and walk towards the lowest of the blocks or follow the summit walking track to just before 'Descartes' and drop down and around.

1.1.3.3. Toolondo Waters 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

A chossy collection of buttresses on the northern slopes of 'Mount Zero' that is easiest approached from the walking track. The only notable thing here is the potential bouldering cave beside 'Toolondo Waters'.

Approach:© (willmonks)

After passing the 'Descartes' facet, follow the track for another couple of hundred metres into a col before the track goes up again toward the summit. Leave the track and pass through the col to the northern slopes and traverse east (right facing out) across the slope to some scrappy buttresses. Locate the bouldering cave to work out where the climbs are.

Alternatively, the outcrops can be approached from 'Pangaea Walls'. Looking from 'Pangaea Walls', two tiers of cliff are visible 300m to the west on the other side of a scrubby saddle. Most prominent, high on the lower tier, is a clean, hanging corner with obvious water streaks to its right. 'Toolondo Waters' starts below this corner.

1.1.3.4. 4 Cornered Crag 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

A supposedly obvious crag situated a little north-east of the summit distinguished by (surprise, surprise!) four corners. This is the most coherent of the crags at 'Mount Zero' and is probably worth a visit.

The cliff faces north and gets full sun. Climbs are described from left to right.

Approach:© (willmonks)

After passing the 'Descartes' facet, follow the track for another couple of hundred metres into a col before the track goes up again toward the summit. Leave the track and pass through the col to the northern slopes and contour around west (left facing out from the slope) for three or four minutes.

1.1.3.5. Mt Zero Summit Cliff 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

This area is mostly garbage though the small cliff just below the lookout has some merit.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the walking track. The cliff faces west and the choss is described from left to right.

1.1.3.6. Mount Zero West Walls 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

Here is another area of choss. Some of the rock here looks good but it doesn't seem that anyone has found it yet. Apparently there have been many worthless climbs done here that have not been recorded. Let's hope that they stay that way.

Approach:© (willmonks)

The west face has a band of cliffs with large orange overhangs sloping diagonally across the hillside with the highest outcrop directly below the summit. The overhangs look really good from the road but are disappointing on closer acquaintance. Even so, they should yield better climbs than the existing ones.

The first climb is the chimney that divides this outcrop right of the prominent overhangs. We move right from this point.

1.1.4. Iskra Crag 77 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.392865, -36.888621

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rostislav

Flake crack to scoop, up corner to belay in through-cave. The other side of the cave is on the First Tier ledge, scramble off.

Start: Start 10m R of Dolgoruki Direct.

FA: Ben Wright, Heather Murray, Geoff Brian, 2004

8Trad 14m
1.1.4.1. Lemonade Wall 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Aid and Trad
1.1.4.2. Flower Power Block 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.3. Shadow Buttress 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.4. Emu Crag 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.5. Sunstroke Area 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.6. Pigs in Space Buttress 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.7. Main West Face 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.8. Dolgoruki Wall 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.9. First Tier 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.10. Second Tier 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.11. Third Tier 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.12. North Western Outcrop 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.4.13. Eastern Walls 11 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport
1.1.4.14. 36 Chambers 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Boulder
1.1.4.15. Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers 0 routes in Area

1.1.5. Summerday Valley 328 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.387340, -36.888459

Description:© (willmonks)

By far the most popular crag in the entire 'Grampians'. Be ready to contend with crowds, both private and commercial.

A note of caution: while the sandstone around here is generally considered to be of very good quality, protruding rock features such as bollards, chickenheads, flakes and fins are often brittle, and they can and do snap off on occasion. Wear helmets, place pro even on "easy" juggy sections, and don't place too much trust in "snappable" rock features for your pro or when scrambling.

1.1.5.1. Back Wall 40 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384833, -36.888743

Description:© (willmonks)

The slim buttress in the middle of the valley is a remarkable piece of rock. Although appearing slightly scrappy, it offers a large number of good quality trad routes, mostly in the easier grades. What's more, the easy access to the top makes most routes easy to toprope, and the opposed orientation of 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' means that you can choose whether to climb in the sun or the shade at any time of day. These factors, combined with the proximity to the carpark, have made 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' by far the most popular crag in the entire 'Grampians'.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Back Wall is the SW face of 'Central Buttress', and faces the 'Wall of Fools'. With the way the track comes in these days you reach 'Back Wall' before 'Main Wall' so the names are a little confusing! It is shady until early afternoon, making it good for summer mornings and winter afternoons.

To gain the top of the crag (or to descend) you need to do a fairly easy scramble at either end, but again, don't trust the snappable jugs.

1.1.5.2. Main Wall 32 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384947, -36.888604

Description:© (willmonks)

The slim buttress in the middle of the valley is a remarkable piece of rock. Although appearing slightly scrappy, it offers a large number of good quality trad routes, mostly in the easier grades. What's more, the easy access to the top makes most routes easy to toprope, and the opposed orientation of 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' means that you can choose whether to climb in the sun or the shade at any time of day. These factors, combined with the proximity to the carpark, have made 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' by far the most popular crag in the entire 'Grampians'.

1.1.5.3. Calcutti Crag 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.4. Hadrian's Wall 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.5. Tropicana Wall 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Aid
1.1.5.6. The Stack 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.7. Norms Face 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.8. Loversleep Cliff 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.9. Bird Wall 24 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.385968, -36.888518

1.1.5.10. Left Wall 19 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384896, -36.887909

1.1.5.11. Tunnel Cliff 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384918, -36.889497

1.1.5.12. Noah's Ark 21 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.13. Wall of Fools 36 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384112, -36.888838

1.1.5.14. Bowler Boulder 17 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.15. Callitris Face 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.16. Callitris Gully 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.17. Scout Cliff 24 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.18. Brownie Buttress 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.19. The Last Bastion 25 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.20. Old Campsite Area 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.5.21. Project Wall 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Boulder

1.1.6. Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) 811 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.383904, -36.891802

1.1.6.1. Flying Blind Area 30 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.383402, -36.888874

1.1.6.2. Barc Cliff 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.383957, -36.889496

1.1.6.3. Gunn Buttress 19 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.382998, -36.891136

Description:

A steep little crag of strong lines tucked away below the trees underneath Sandinista Wall. This could be called Lindorff Crag as Kevin was involved in almost every one of these routes. His trademark hard grading and technical crack moves are a feature of this area. It's a shame that the best routes on this crag all feature an awkward tree scramble to get started. This is one of the only cliffs in this area that is suitable for top-roping, due to the easy top access, although some routes are too steep to toprope. Some excellent bouldering has been done on the left side. This place is protected from light rain and gets morning sun although the trees keep it generally shady for most of the day.

Approach:

Easily approached by leaving the track 50m before the Sandinista Cliff and heading right on a well worn track (which heads to Anderson's bouldering area). 50m along this track the wall will be visible on the left. Almost all routes are marked with a small white painted initial. Descent for all climbs is down the right side via a small track. Routes are described left to right.

1.1.6.4. Battlescarred Blocks 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

A few ok routes hidden away in the jungle surrounding the Andersons bouldering area. Most people don't even realize that there is roped climbing tucked below the main cliffs.

Approach:

The following routes are 40m down from the right hand end of Gun Buttress at two large boulders which create a small well sheltered alcove. If you follow the lower of the climbers' tracks you pass very near these large boulders. They are protected from the sun most of the day.

1.1.6.5. Amnesty Wall Area 46 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.382063, -36.891154

Description:© (nmonteith)

One of the most popular sport crags in the 'Grampians' - and one of the easiest to get to. Recent bolting (and retrobolting) has created a popular and busy little sector which contrasts nicely with the original old school trad routes. There is a wide variety of styles and grades so that most climbers would be pretty happy spending a day in this delightful shaded glen. The rock is extremely featured with large pockets and seams but can vary in quality with the lower section of the main wall suffering from sandy rock. Some expansion bolts have become loose over time - so take care, and if adding new routes please use glue-ins.

Historically this area has been one of the most developed crags at 'Hollow Mountain'. In 1983 the Lindorff brothers established the two infuriatingly thin face routes of 'Airplay' (21) and 'Levitation' (22) as well as the undeservedly ignored 'No Fixed Address' (21). A few years later Louise Shepherd established one of the first of the hard routes in the area with her bold ascent of 'Amnesty International' (24). Her partner on this route, Steve Monks, added his own wicked creation, the drought affected 'Chinese Water Torture' (22). In the early 90s Martin Lama and Graeme Smith added two variations to a theme on the 'Airplay' wall. 'Julia Roberts' (21) and 'Infinite Dreams' (22) were the result. In 1993 James McIntosh lead his way through choss and moss to create his own version of the 'Lost Arrow' spire (15). Seven years later Ray Lassman and Keith Lockwood boldly climbed the arete right of the main wall to produce No Fixed Gear (18). Unfortunately this route lasted less than twelve months before it was unknowingly retrobolted by Dianne Fermi to create the aptly named 'Amnesia' (17). This act heralded a near explosion of new route activity by a new younger generation of sport climbers. Matt Brooks returned with a vengeance establishing one of the hardest routes outside of 'Sandinista' Wall with his 'United Nations' (30). He also added the very popular 'The Tyrants Grasp' (22) and 'Freedom Fighter' (27). David Isaacs created further controversy by bolting a crack/seam to create 'Sting' Like A Bee (24). Recent years have seen the rest of the real estate slowly being filled by extensions, linkups and the usual. This area has become one of the more popular sport crags in the 'Grampians'.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

The most foolproof approach from the 'Hollow Mountain' car park is to follow the 'Hollow Mountain' Summit tourist trail to the base of 'Sandinista' Wall, then walk R along the base of the cliffs for about 80m to the 'Moral Vandal' Block, and keep going another 50m or so to emerge in this shady amphitheatre with a heavily pocketed central wall. A more direct and quicker approach, if you know the trails, is to turn right off the 'Hollow Mountain' Summit tourist trail about 150m before you get to 'Sandinista' Wall, and walk right about 100m under Gun Buttress, and then stumble 50m up the right end of Gun Buttress to pop into Amnesty Amphitheatre.

This area keeps fairly dry in light rain - but tends to seep after extended liquid downfalls. The routes get morning sun, however many routes will be shady most of the day as they lie under the tree line.

1.1.6.6. Andersens 259 routes in Field
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.381115, -36.891042

Description:© (Hatsu)

Victoria's most popular bouldering destination. Lots of free standing Font style formations with nice soft landings. Take care of the ground vegetation as it has taken a battering since boulderers discovered this area. More info will be added later by Alister Robertson (or so we thought back in 2005...).

Approach:© (Hatsu)

The boulder field is located directly underneath Orange 'Blossom' and 'Guernica' Wall.

1.1.6.7. Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) 44 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.380968, -36.891919

1.1.6.8. The Kindergarten (bouldering) 29 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:© (boardlord)

A good collection of problems that haphazardly span the grades between V3 and V12+. Standout problems that are amongst some of the best for their grade are 'Innocence' (V3), 'The Nevin Rule' (V7) and Spanking the 'Monkey' Bars (V8). Section 2 is a perfect spot for a rainy day - as it is one of the few areas that stay dry in a downpour.

Approach:© (boardlord)

These climbs are located right of the 'Clicke Wall' area. 'Problems' are listed left to right (facing the cliff). 'Access' via Mt Zero carpark, then once past the picnic area and onto the base of Flat Rock - keep heading left following the borderline of the trees and rock platform to gain the upper terrace. Then head straight up towards the main cliffline where a faint track and cairns lead up to obvious orange wall under a roof. This is Section 1. Gripmaster (V9) is a particular landmark - just look for the very bad slopers heading up the vague arete to under the roofline. Further around from here about 80 meters to the right is Section 2.

1.1.6.9. Expedition Crag 11 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.6.10. Turtle Rocks 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.6.11. Sandinista Cliffs 50 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.384564, -36.892190

1.1.6.12. Pensioners Wall Area 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.382910, -36.891396

Description:© (nmonteith)

A little piece of English gritstone tucked away below the treeline just north of the mighty 'Sandinista' Wall. These short routes are only worth doing on the way to other climbing areas and are also suitable for top-roping. The crag gets little sun apart from early in the morning.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Follow small track right from 'Sandinista' Wall for 30m to find the blocky north east facing Pensioners Wall and south facing bolted boulder of 'Moral Vandal' Block.

1.1.6.13. Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block 47 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.382906, -36.892218

1.1.6.14. Loopeys 31 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.381789, -36.892474

1.1.6.15. Hollow Mountain Cave 45 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.381889, -36.891844

Description:© (nmonteith)

Australia's premier roof bouldering venue. Chalked to the gills and inhabited by freakish Europeans. Unless you boulder harder than V7 don't bother with this place. The hardest 'problem' is the V16 78-move ceiling called 'The Wheel Of Life' by Dai Koyamada.

1.1.6.16. Legoland 27 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.386915, -36.893511

Description:

400m to the left of Sandinista Wall

1.1.6.17. Cut Lunch Walls 25 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.386779, -36.893995

Description:

Some popular sport routes on a small Taipanesque wall, and some not so popular trad lines. This is a cliff of wide variety and offers several days worth of action for the mid grade 20’s climber.

Approach:

960m from carpark. 36.53663s, 142.23.178e.

Keep following the base of the cliff line south west from White Wall past acres of blank rock for 300m until the cliff starts to breaks down. At the first opportunity scramble up the small wall on the right. There should be a small rock cairn halfway up this 6m wall which shows the way. If you miss this step-up you will end up stumbling around at the base of a short poxy cliff cursing the guidebook authors. At the time of this guidebook research there is a small man-made rock wall and sticks blocking the wrong path. Once above this short wall you will see a high orange wall, this is Upper Cut Lunch Wall where most of the sport routes are. Below and to the right of this wall are several of the trad routes.

Routes from 1-9 are on Lower Cut Lunch Wall. Routes from 10-18 are on Upper Cut Lunch Wall. Routes described from right to left. This wall gets full sun until about 1pm. It is cool and breezy and shady in the afternoon.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors located above 'Raindancer' and 'Twisted Horizons'.

History:

In the late 1980’s intrepid explorer Dave Vass started things rolling with the fine corner of 'The Snatch' (23). A year later Jon Bassindale dragged a few fellow Poms up the impressive and bold 'Romeo is Bleeding' (23) - which is unfortunately the only feasible line up the full height of the superb blank orange wall dominating the left side of the crag. The cliff remained un-loved for more than ten years until sport climbers began to notice the lovely orange rock high up on the ledge above the grey jugs. Kent Paterson and Julian Saunders both inspected the wall but abandoned first ascent attempts because of the seemingly bad access. This didn’t stop Neil Monteith and Nick McKinnon from appearing in 2001 and cleaning up a swag of quality sport routes and establishing an easy way up to the ledge. The addition of a few gnarly trad routes in the last few years has filled in the gaps.

1.1.6.18. Koalasquatsy Wall 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.387247, -36.894714

Description:© (nmonteith)

Home of some beautiful rock, mighty lines and a few easy scary jug-fests. Renewed interest in this area has created a good collection of varied classics. This is the south-eastern continuation of 'Cut Lunch Walls', with the two being separated by the awesome but very blank 30m wall of immaculate orange stone.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Cut Lunch Walls' follow a (sometimes) cairned rock ridge following the big blank cliff-line as closely as possible. About 80m left of 'Raindancer' and on a ledge above is 'Koalasquatsy Wall'. The black corner of 'Koalasquatsy' and the amazing south facing orange wall of 'Us Esoterics' should be obvious. To get onto the belay ledge keep walking 50m south (towards 'Tribute' Wall) and scramble back R up a small gully. Descent for most of these climbs are dedicated rap anchors, however for the longer older routes it is via bollard slings near the top of Ooh Ooh Aah Aah or by ringbolts above Cut Lunch Wall. Crag faces into the sun in the morning. Routes described right to left.

1.1.6.19. Tribute Wall 21 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.387624, -36.895067

Description:

A small sport climbing area with a few intermediate graded face routes on compact grey and orange rock. The holds tend to be sloping and pumpy.

1.1.6.20. The Dungeon 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.388450, -36.895479

Description:© (nmonteith)

A short punchy bulgy wall of immaculate marbled rock, which has experienced a bit of new activity from Kent Paterson! The routes here are just over vertical. The wall suffers a bit from small climb syndrome and bad access. The base is a chaos of mossy boulders, ferns and chasms. It is best to rap in with a fixed rope and climb out of all these climbs. To get a good view of the wall before committing to the rap, scramble around to the pedestal on the southern end of the wall. 'Irritant Pollens' is the evil looking flake crack visible from the pedestal. The crag gets morning sun but soon switches to shade as it is tucked away down low.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

This wall lies below 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. Walk out from 'Bad Moon Rising' for 50m to the edge of the cliff. A small terrace with several rap chains is directly above the climbs but is fairly dangerous to reach. It is better to rig a fixed rope from safer territory and abseil down the slabby bit onto the terrace, re-belay mid-rope off one of the chains, and then rap down the main cliff to the base. At the far left end of the terrace (facing out) is the rap chain for 'Civil War'. The middle chain is Mistaken for Strangers, and the right chain is an un-bolted potential project. Right of this chain is a manky double bolt belay belonging to Prisoner Of Conscience. Routes listed from right to left when facing into the rock.

1.1.6.21. Bad Moon Rising Wall 22 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.388176, -36.895639

Description:© (nmonteith)

The slabby streaked walls between 'Tribute Wall' and Van Dieman's Land. The routes and rock quality resemble Wall Of Fools at Summer Day Valley. The right side is home to several nice sport routes and the left has some of the best easy jug fests in the Grampians. Cliff faces into the sun until mid-afternoon. Routes described right to left.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

1200m from carpark and 580m from 'Sandinista' Wall. 36.53.730s, 142.23.270e. Walk through the 'Tribute' Walls ravine, scramble down via worn tree and airy step-across to large open rocky platform. The cliff to the west (right) is 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. If you continue along this rocky platform for 80m you will end up in the Van Dieman's Land Amphitheatre.

Descent Notes:© (nmonteith)

Descent from the left side trad routes can be made via the double ring-bolts located on the ledge above Revenge Of The 'Chicken'.

History:© (nmonteith)

Surprisingly the harder routes were all but ignored for decades until Monty was researching a new online guide in 2005. A few weekends later and the area sprung from only two easy trad routes to quite a collection of nice midrange sport climbs.

1.1.6.22. Van Dieman's Land 38 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.388859, -36.896589

1.1.6.23. Rambla Wall 7 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Approach:© (boardlord)

This is the overhanging wall directly above 'Sandinista' Wall and right on the Hollow Mtn summit track. The boulder problems are on the upper side of the cleft through which the walking track passes. The landing is steep stepped rock so mats are essential - and you will be forever moving them out of the way to let walkers get past - it is really tight in there. 'Problems' are described left to right facing the cliff.

1.1.6.24. A-Frame Boulders 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

Not a bouldering area! Several nice trad face routes on a difficult to access wall. The crag is plainly obvious from the carpark but quite hard to locate when you actually reach the local area. It is the outer face of the 'Tribute' Walls.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Best access is to walk from the far left end of White Wall without going up the rock step toward 'Cut Lunch Walls'. Keep going more or less horizontally for 100m, and you should end up on a terrace which ends under the A-Frame Boulder. Alternatively, abseil in from a bollard at the top of the blocks about 20m outwards of 10 AM (see 'Tribute' Wall).

1.1.7. North-West Mt Difficult Range 94 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.439471, -37.013965

Description:© (jgoding)

Home to some classics.

Useful Info: 45min walk in up a steep, well defined track.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Just past Roses Gap rec centre, about 30mins off the highway

1.1.7.1. Carter's Col 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.7.2. Sickle Wall 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.7.3. Mawson Slab 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.7.4. Mt Difficult Cliff 53 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

Some excellent trad climbing but there's unfortunately a lot of choss among the good stuff. As the cliff is reached near it's right-hand side, climbs have been organised from right-to-left.

Approach:

Follow the walking track up from Trooper's Creek campsite, past the 'Wind Cave' then more steeply to reach the cliff just left of 'Nostalgia'

Descent Notes:

The easiest descent from the top of the cliff is at the left end. Follow the cliff-top to the waterfall and descend this via terraces on the left (facing out) to the tourist track.

At the right-hand end locating the gully beside the Epaminondas buttress is tricky. Abseil Gully, despite the name, is not a good descent option and it is also not easy to locate from above.

1.1.7.5. Epaminondas Buttress 17 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (jgoding)

Sound rock, good climbing and inspiring positions give this buttress one of the best collections of long middle grade classics in the 'Grampians'.

Approach:© (jgoding)

About 200m to the right of the main wall. Follow cairned route across from where the track hits the main Mt Difficult wall. To descend from 'Sword in the Stone' and the routes to its right head back from the cliff edge then trend left heading for a gully. A well trod and cairned pad winds down this.

1.1.7.6. Troopers Creek Cliff 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

The large orange cliffs running east from Tilwinda Falls. Much of the rock is broken looking and quite steep. There is some potential for sport routes on clean blocky faces, slabs and big roofs. Natural lines are few and far between, and usually consist of rubbish rock.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From the Troopers Creek campground follow the tourist track to Tilwinda Falls (this is not the same track as the regular Mt Difficult track). When the tourist track suddenly steepens and arrives at cliffs, cross the creek on the left and scramble up to the orange cliff-line. Walk along and up to the left (steeply) keeping as close as possible to the cliff base. Five minutes from the creek crossing you will reach the original Wayne Maher route. 15 minutes walk all up.

1.1.7.7. Mt Difficult Summit 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.7.8. Mt Bloody Impossible 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

1.1.8. The Rockwall Area 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.439311, -36.961937

1.1.8.1. Barr's Buttress 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.8.2. The Rockwall 37 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

1.1.9. Briggs Bluff Area 70 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.460866, -36.985436

1.1.9.1. Beehive Falls 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.9.2. Mirage Wall 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.9.3. Drama Wall 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Aid
1.1.9.4. Pacific Ocean Wall 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 142.445812, -36.986516

Description:

Pacific Ocean Wall is a spectacular wall of unbroken rock, 100-120m high, stretching for over a kilometer. While some protection can be found in the highly textured rock, it is often not adequate for the length of a route and usually some fixed protection is required.

Approach:

There are two approaches:

  1. Walk up the Briggs Bluff Walking Track to the first highpoint past Beehive Falls. Pacific Ocean Wall is on the other side of the creek. Turn off the walking track at the highpoint and follow the cliffline. Stay as close to the RH edge of the plateau for the easiest walking.

  2. From an off-road Camp Area 3.8km from Mt Zero Rd, follow pink ribbons and faint track.Takes you to the start of the consistent cliff line near the base of Ghandi.

To access the top of the cliff, continue up the BBWT. It swings south when it reaches the top of POW and follows the top of the wall along a plateau.

Descent Notes:

The Briggs Bluff Walking Trail runs along the top of the cliff, 50-100m from the cliff edge for about 2/3rds of its length. At the southern end of the cliff, head north along the cliff edge until you can find the trail.

There are rap stations provided on and above the Kon Tiki Face.

1.1.9.5. Distortion Wall 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.9.6. Briggs Bluff 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A large Blue Mountains looking buttress overlooking the Western 'Highway'. Much of it is total choss.

1.1.9.7. Centurion Walls 32 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.459788, -36.974541

Description:© (nmonteith)

This is a semi-sport crag located below the 'Briggs Bluff' massif. The rock is steep orange sandstone walls with

the occasional cave thrown in for good measure. Most of the

better routes are grade 20+ and protected mainly by bolts.

The fixed equipment used on this cliff are either stainless

steel expansion bolts or glue-in ringbolts. Most climbs have

rap anchors to facilitate easy descent and cleaning. The first

ascentists have endeavored to camouflage fixed equipment

by painting hangers and rings with matt textured paint. The first

bolts on routes are usually relatively high off the deck so a stickclip is useful. Much of the rock is soft, so try and avoid climbing within 24 hours of recent rain. Routes such as 'Winged Corpse', 'Psychotic' Episode and 'Killer Wolf' are good wet weather routes. Black streaks on the rock are marks of water seepage which means these routes are not climbable after heavy rain. A light rack of gear is required for many of the routes - a single set of cams and wires will suffice on all apart from 'Kublai Khan' and 'Stone Temptress'. There is still some potential for new lines to be done.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

These cliffs are in the Mt Difficult Range (Nth Grampians), in

'Victoria'. From 'Melbourne' drive to Stawell and continue north towards Horshum for about 15 minutes, then take the well signposted road left to Roses Gap. If you drive past the Big Koala you have gone too far. Aprox 10km down this road just before Roses Gap turn left down Roses Gap/Mt Zero Road (dirt) heading south for 1.2 km (24km north from Delley's Bridge in Halls Gap). Park on the side of the road near a large rock cairn. In the distance on the right is a low orange wall (Centurion) with a large grey wall above (Briggs Bluff). The upper wall has a large arch formation. Follow well cut track with some tape markersand rock cairns for about 15 minutes, walking

through light scrub to arrive at the centre of the 'Lower Wall'.

If you want to camp the two best bets are the Fire Dam about

500m along Halls Gap/Mt Zero Rd from Roses Gap or Troopers

Creek campsite (payment required) which is several kilometres

west along Roses Gap Rd. You can also camp in a sheltered

sandy cave to the right of 'Progressive Happy House' at the cliff.

1.1.9.8. Deep Creek Walls 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.9.9. Deep Creek Blocks 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.9.10. The End of the Earth 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.9.11. Mirage Rock 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

1.1.10. Eastern Mt Difficult Range 73 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.496436, -37.059115

1.1.10.1. Split Pinnacle 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.10.2. No Mans Land 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.10.3. Heatherlie Heights 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Aid
1.1.10.4. Cape Canaveral 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.10.5. Woomera 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.10.6. The Promised Land 16 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

An accessible cliff with a reasonable collection of middle grade routes. More traffic would help to keep them cleaner. The main cliff is L shaped. The routes around Loose End are on a large South Wall the other routes from Blackbeard face East.

Approach:

From the Mt Difficult Plantation Campsite which is 8.6km along the Halls Gap-Mt Zero Rd from Halls Gap. Follow the signed walking track towards Boroka Lookout/Brigg's Bluff. This intersects with a 4wd track. Turn R [North] and after about 150m head uphill into a clearing [often cairned]. Walk uphill about 100m then turn R to cross a usually dry creek bed near some big boulders. Continue on about 50m past these then head up hill towards the cliff avoiding any thick shrub. There are faint tracks.

Descent Notes:

For the slab routes R from Guru abseil off the tree above Guru [2 x 50m]. There are abseil bolts at the top of Blackbeard. For the other long routes head L to descend down a gully.

1.1.10.7. The Heavens 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.10.8. Lower Heavens 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.10.9. Lunar Walls 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.505868, -37.058598

1.1.10.10. The Tim Tams 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

1.1.11. Asses Ears Area 276 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.332872, -37.123644

Description:© (aca_admin)

A wild area tucked away on the far west of the 'Grampians'. The rock is generally gritty and featured.

1.1.11.1. Asses Ears 76 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.330764, -37.092942

1.1.11.2. Sunset Crags 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.319465, -37.098431

1.1.11.3. The Secret Crags 31 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.319435, -37.116986

1.1.11.4. Cherub Wall 54 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.334448, -37.098844

1.1.11.5. Maul Wall 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.329932, -37.102934

1.1.11.6. Walaby Rocks 25 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.327717, -37.109498

1.1.11.7. Conifer Wall 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.287950, -37.099941

1.1.11.8. Geranium (Brim) Springs 41 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.275472, -37.115589

1.1.11.9. Porcelain Wall 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.292268, -37.101649

1.1.11.10. Wallaby Rocks 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.11.11. Joey Blocks 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.328710, -37.111370

1.1.12. Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area 169 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.404863, -36.958361

Description:© (willmonks)

Includes crags on the escarpment which runs south from the 'Mt Stapylton Campground', accessed from either Winfields Rd or Smiths Rd. The more southerly crags on this escarpment (Mt Emu and neighbors) are actually closer to Pohlners Track but have traditionally been written up as being accessed from Smiths Rd, and so they are included here. Double sets of locked gates were installed in February 2009 on either end of the sandy road, so you will now have to walk into these areas.

1.1.12.1. Mount of Olives 20 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 142.393257, -36.909178

Description:© (willmonks)

A large tower of rock clearly visible from the Stapylton Campground. The main west facing cliffs are covered in thick moss, but the back north side has a good clean hidden wall - dubbed Shangri La.

The 'Mount of Olives' is an old area that has been ignored for thiry years. The spate of recent discoveries should raise a few eyebrows. A cliff dismissed as worthless that can produce a crop of middle-grade climbs to the first suitors probably has more to offer. The immense overhangs on the south face really warrant a serious look. The overhangs are large, lichenous and will be hard to bolt. If you're looking for a project, here it is.

Approach:© (willmonks)

The cliff can be approached from above or below.

To approach from above, walk in past Point 447 along the stapylton loop trake. Parke at the gate on Puhlnars rd. It takes about 40 minutes but there's only 5 minutes of scrub and it's quite flat and it is a spectacular walk. You arrive warmed up but relaxed. Descend the gully on the NW side of the peak. A short abseil may be needed to access climbs right of 'The Third Man' (dangerous slab).

Alternatively, aproach from below using the walking track from the Stapylton campground where it crosses Pohlner's Road and cutting off up the hillside to the crag. This is rough and steep but not too bad if you keep to the right of the slabby areas below the outcrop. Walking time would be slightly less than the if coming from the top but it is decidedly more enervating.

1.1.12.2. The Rust Bucket 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep bouldery

Ethic:

Sport

1.1.12.3. Martini Rock 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.12.4. Worship Wall 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.12.5. Point 447 5 routes in Area
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.406833, -36.911058

Description:© (willmonks)

A good steep little crag on top of the range with a couple of new route options left.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Drive up Pohlner Track from the Stapylton Campground to a closed 4WD track on the left near the top of the range. Don't park in front of the gate: there is a good parking spot 100m further up the road. From the car-park the cliff appears as a steep block to the north. Follow the closed 4WD track for about 15 minutes and then turn left onto a walking track that takes you to the crag in a further 5 minutes.

Don't approach directly from the track when the cliff is first obvious: continue until just past the crag then walk in to the left end. The obvious approach when the crag is first sighted is a horrible mess of boulders, fallen timber and scrub.

1.1.12.6. Bordel Buttress 16 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.12.7. Mt Emu 15 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.12.8. The Crows Nest 6 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.12.9. The Eyrie 10 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.12.10. The Unnamed Cliff 34 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.387805, -36.970295

Description:© (jgoding)

This cliff has a number of worthwhile climbs and isn't quite as remote as its neighbours. It is a fairly long crag and as access is at the left-hand end and the descent is at the right-hand end it can seem a long walk in climbing booties. Take Tevas!

There has been some recent development of a small face at the left end, including abseil stations, and some routes in the 22 department. Rock quality of this wall (Energise your soul wall) is generally excellent orange/grey sandstone. The rest of the cliff varies greatly, with large sections of choss, some very appealing lines. The descent off some routes looks epic, beware. Route finding to date has been hard due to lack of any decent topo maps. Please treat this upate with caution as many of the existing routes have not been added to the topos as the editor was not sure where they went. I hope the routes that I have indicated (which I am sure of) are useful to find your way around this crag. Possibility for new routes is great.

Original text by Bill Andrews. Edited by Joe Goding 12th July 2004.

Map Details

See Northern 'Grampians' (VICMAP). 1:50,000. The new track (as described in text) hits the cliff at approx 075 230

Also see "Mount Stapylton" 1:25,000 (VICMAP)

Suggested Campsites

1)Troopers Creek (Further) or

2)Mt Stapylton (Easier & closer).

Approach:© (jgoding)

This crag is basically found near the south-east corner of the Toscana olives fenceline (there is a reasonable road on the south end of this. The road on the east boundary should only be undertaken by large (i.e. Hi-Lux or Land Cruiser) 4WD with decent clearance.

  1. From the Troopers Creek campsite, head along Rose's Gap Road (towards Wartook) for 5km to Smith Road, (at 009 241) turn right onto this and follow it until it heads west (at GR 063 028) turn north onto Winfield Road. One kilometre along Winfield Road there is a vehicle track on the right(Cameron's Road), follow this (along the south, fenced border of Toscana Olives) for about 1½km until it peters out and turns north. Park here and head off roughly following an old vehicle track (that has had lots of trees felled across it). The start of the track can be a bit hard to find. You will hopefully find the trail which is just slightly higher than the old vehicle track most of the way, and joins it from time to time. You might catch the odd bit of yellow tape on a branch. After about 500m you come to a more open area, sloping down into the creek. Head left just before the creek, cross it after around 80m and follow it up and left (Cairned) until it heads steeply uphill to the base of 'Energise your soul' route. *The old track took another route slightly to the south but the track was re-made in order to reduce erosion as the old track was not well cairned and went mainly over loose ground. Routes described from left to right across the cliff.

  2. From the new Mt Stapylton campsite, head west on Plantation Road, turn south onto Windfield Road. Follow this until you reach the south end of Toscana Olives. As for 'Access' description 1).

Cliff Faces

North west. A good winter cliff. Be a little careful of wind on the left end of the cliff as it can get pretty full on and tie up your ropes amongst the chicken heads!

Time from Car: 20 25 minutes.

Add access from Mt Stapleton. Update access. Refer to map. (Scan map).

Descent

The top of this cliff has a number of mini canyons running back from the cliff edge, especially at the left hand end, because of this, descent is definitely easier via the gully towards the right-hand end of the cliff. This gully is readily located by a couple of large cairns, the highest of which indicates the start of the gully. Down in the gully there is an option, either an "Organ Pipes (at Arapiles) descent gully" type hole, or the buttress on its left (facing out). Of the two options the buttress is slightly easier. If going down the hole, move out right (facing the cliff) at the bottom; if taking the buttress option, move left (facing the cliff) towards the bottom of the "hole" option and down climb the bottom part of the buttress to a good ledge. Traverse this to the right and drop down to ground level and walk out through the scrub for 10 15 metres to where it thins out and back to the base of the climbs. All of the above sounds complex but it should gel when you are actually there.

It is also possible to get down the left hand end of the cliff but it would probably require a few trips to become familiar with all the ins and outs of the maze.

At the left-hand end of the cliff is a descent gully; at the bottom of this gully is a small face. Non Event starts at the overlap in the centre of this face.

1.1.12.11. An Unnamed Cliff 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.380236, -36.965591

1.1.12.12. Olive Grove 9 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.12.13. Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs 13 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

The laziest climbing option in the Grampians? The two minute walk-in is sure to attract the sort of climber who enjoys a sleep in, a siesta and an afternoon nap before bed time. This lozenge shaped outcrop would be useful for beginner to intermediate climbing instruction as it is within easy walking distance from the campsite, is about 12 metres high, has several good routes on reasonable rock offering natural protection, can be set up for abseiling, and can be down climbed at about grade 6 (about 2 metres right of the north arête on the west side). This pillar is now totally climbed out – don't even think about contriving a new route!

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Refer to map one level up. The obvious free standing pillar is located about 100m south of the carpark at the Cave of 'Ghosts' Aboriginal art site. You walk past this obvious pillar on the way to the other crags in this area.

You can climb at any time of day due to the circular nature of the pillar. Just pick a shady side. Descend by simul-absiel or downclimb Automatic Runway. There are no bolt anchors on the summit.

1.1.12.14. Ghost Block 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.12.15. The Olive Cave 9 routes in Crag
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.378359, -36.957887

Description:© (nmonteith)

Steep climbing in impressive caves with shade until 4pm. Sadly the 2 minute access to these caves was extended to 30 minutes when National Parks installed gates on either end of the access track.

Interestingly there is some evidence of previous abandoned interest in these caves. In the early 90s Kieran Loughran placed a a bolt above 'Tazer' and halfway up the wall to the left of 'Tazer'. Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins and Richard Smith did a few routes to the right of the big caves sometime in the 90s. Not as chossy as it looks apparently. It was at the same time they discovered Troopers Creek tavern so they called it the Local as a result. Halls Gap local Earl bouldered a few problems along the base in 2006. Dave Jones came in for a boulder in late 2007 but didn't make it back before Adam Demmert, Neil Monteith and Cath De Vaus found and dispatched the main routes!

The Rules. Don't EVER light fires at, or near this crag. It is too close to a very large farm. Camping in the caves is illegal - don't even think about it. If it's too cold bring more clothes or go somewhere else. Don't block this fireroad gate with your car. Parks Vic needs access to this area for larger trucks.

Access Issues:© (nmonteith)

The Rules. Don't EVER light fires at, or near this crag. It is too close to a very large farm. Camping in the caves is illegal - don't even think about it. If it's too cold bring more clothes or go somewhere else. Don't block this fireroad gate with your car. Parks Vic needs access to this area for larger trucks.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From Stapylton Campground drive west along Olive Plantation Road towards Northern Grampians Road. At 2.2km take the first major left (Winfields Rd) and drive down this for 4.3km and park at intersection of Cameron and Winfield Rd. Jump the gate on the olive plantation side of Camerons Road (East) and walk down this sand dirt road for 1.6km, then turn left onto road that continues to follow the fence around the plantation. Keep walking north along this fireroad for another kilometre until the big cave is visible on the right and a red tape mark on the fence. There should be an old carpark here. Follow very short bush track straight up to the cliff (2 minutes). The first cave you reach is the lesser Northern cave. Riding mountain bikes could reduce walk-in time considerably.

History:© (nmonteith)

Interestingly there is some evidence of previous abandoned interest in these caves. In the early 90s Kieran Loughran placed a a bolt above Tazer and halfway up the wall to the left of Tazer. Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins and Richard Smith did a few routes to the right of the big caves sometime in the 90s. Not as chossy as it looks apparently. It was at the same time they discovered Troopers Creek tavern so they called it the Local as a result. Halls Gap local Earl bouldered a few problems along the base in 2006. Dave Jones came in for a boulder in late 2007 but didn't make it back before Adam Demmert, Neil Monteith and Cath De Vaus found and dispatched the main routes!

1.1.12.16. The Ravine 19 routes in Crag
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.387531, -36.948791

Unique Features And Strengths:© (aca_admin)

One of the most popular easy sport crags in the Grampians.

Description:© (aca_admin)

One of the most popular easy sport crags in the 'Grampians'. A secret lush valley hidden away behind the olive plantation and only discovered with the help of Google Earth! This place is made for summer. There are two sides to the crag, the south facing shady vertical face and the north facing steep cave. The vertical face is in shade until 4pm in summer, the sport cave gets a little morning sun but is steep enough not to greatly affect the climbing. This is not a great place in winter as it doesn't get any sun at all.

The North Vertical Wall looks and climbs like a mix of Kentucky's Red River Gorge and the Blue Mountains. Because of the shady aspect there is quite a bit of lichen and moss on this wall, but the good routes climb the clean lines between these curtains of vegetation. Hopefully with a few more repeats these routes will become totally clean. The routes on the left side climb very nicely on polished orange rock with remarkable jugs, the right side routes are gritty and a little crumbly underfoot.

If it all gets too hot, there are several waist deep swimming holes 200m further up the ravine and some more minor ones downstream about 200m. They tend to be a bit stagnant in late summer. DO NOT SHIT ANYWHERE NEAR THE CREEK! (yes, some idiot had already done this.)

There has been some recent complaints from local bush walkers about the Ravine climbing area. Try and keep to these self-imposed rules when climbing here.

  1. limit the numbers of climbers in your group (no more than 5?) No uni clubs, VCC trips etc.

  2. no new routes

  3. no toilet activities anywhere near the crag itself (and bury your paper!)

  4. leave your cars parked at Stapylton camp if you have more than 1

  5. be courteous to any non-climbers in the area

  6. take out any rubbish you find (even if it isn't yours)

Access Issues:© (aca_admin)

Damage to the road has almost resulted in climbing at The Ravine being BANNED. Please do not drive past the gates, even if they are unlocked or open.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

From Stapylton Campground drive west along Olive Plantation Road towards 'Grampians' Road. Park at the first left turn after about a kilometre at a sandy hump with a gate. These locked gates were recently installed at either end of the sandy access track (February 2009) so now you have to walk (not drive) south for aprox 2.5 kms down the sandy fireroad the runs on the east side of the olive plantation (parallel to Winfield road, but further east). At the 2nd distinct sharp 90 degree bend walk 50m further to a 15m high cliffline (Truckstop Wall) and large boulders on the left side of the road. Locate yellow tape markers and follow gully up left from cliff line then head directly east up the gentle hill through thick bush. Eventually you will reach the top of the hill and get a clear view down onto the Ravine Crag (about 500m west). Follow cairns and red tape markers down the hill and trending right along the edge of the valley to reach the crag. Don't head straight down into the valley floor until the very last minute - it's a nightmare of thick vegetation! The last 50m of the track is pretty thick bush and you might get your feet wet if it has been raining! Cross the creek bed at right angles to hit the 'Northern Wall' on the left side. Skirt right along base of this for 100m to reach the first routes. Total walking time - 40 minutes including the easy road - a mountain bike would reduce the walk time in half. Mosquitoes lurk in the water holes - bring repellent if your girly scent attracts them!

Ethic:© (aca_admin)

This Ravine has been developed as a safe sport climbing venue. It has a plethora of bolts and rap anchors. All new routes should follow this example of nicely spaced and well installed equipment. Expect retro-bolts if your route is too runout! If you want to establish scary death routes please go elsewhere.

History:© (aca_admin)

Discovered by Neil Monteith with the help of Google Earth and a machete. All routes were bolted and climbed shortly after.

1.1.13. NE Mt Zero Range 70 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.422464, -36.921605

Description:© (jgoding)

This area covers crags on the eastern flanks of the Mt. Zero range accessed from the Mt. Zero to Halls Gap Rd. At the North end, Iskra Crags are separately described because they're usually accessed from 'Hollow Mountain' car park. The southern extremity of this area is the Roses Gap Rd (with crags further south being covered under the Mt Difficult Range). Although 'The Rockwall' crag has conventionally been grouped under the Mt Difficult Range, it is included in this section for two reasons: (1) it is north of Roses Gap Rd; and (2) it is on the NW (Mt Zero) side of the main valley which divides the Mt. Zero range from the Mt Difficult Range.

Please note that until further notice camping in caves is not permitted by Parks 'Victoria'.

1.1.13.1. Golton Rocks 38 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.412976, -36.900508

1.1.13.2. Golton Wall 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.13.3. Gog-Magog Crag 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.13.4. G-Land 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.1.13.5. Watchmen Wall 8 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:© (jgoding)

A 20m high wall 5mins from the car. Most routes are on the main face but there are a few worthwhile ones to the left (facing the cliff from the road) too.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Located on a compact orange wall of very good quality, about 300m to the left (as you look at it from the Mt Zero-Halls Gap Road) of 'Cave Cliff'. This has it's own access from the low point in the road (starts behind a tree with a triple fork about head height). The track is well marked with yellow tape and leads directly to this cliff (the lowest, best looking one with Guano on it's left side – clearly visible from the road). Walking time 5mins.

1.1.13.6. Coppermine Track Cliff 7 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

A reasonably extensive cliff but broken in parts by terraces and rotten overhangs. It provides a few pleasant middle grade routes and has easy access. Wear a helmet as the rock is fairly crumbly in places.

Approach:© (willmonks)

From the Roses Gap/Mt Zero Rd, drive 1km NW along the Coppermine Track. The cliff is directly above. The walk is about 10 minutes. Routes described from Right to Left.

1.1.14. Mt Stapylton Campground 118 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.390496, -36.926573

Description:© (nmonteith)

You gotta love the lazy option! Instead of driving to some far flung part of the 'Grampians' you can explore what is close to your coffee, tent and esky. This guide records the new development that has occurred in the hidden crags within walking distance of the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' in the Northern 'Grampians' of Western 'Victoria'. Most of the better routes are steep bolted sport routes or easy short wall climbs on trad protection. The rock is coarse with a similar feel to the Blue Mountains and has patches of utter choss. If you are climbing on trad then take extra care as many of these routes have had limited repeats. If you want to clip bolts then this area is a great place to start your 'Grampians' experience. Leave your bolt plates at home - almost everything here is ring-bolted.

Don't chip, don't litter, don't shit at the crag (use toilets at campground), don't swear near tourists, don't drill within earshot of the campsite and lastly respect the Aboriginal art site by keeping your grubby mitts off nearby rock.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

All these crags (apart from the bouldering) are accessed from a well worn track, but un-official, that leaves the south east corner of the Aboriginal Art Site carpark. Walk down the official loop track fro twenty metres before branching off to the right and into the bush. Within a few minutes you'll stumble upon the obvious free standing pillar of Mini 'Castle Crag'. The track to the other crags continues past this point (refer to map on this page).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Homebrew

Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of 'Lovedale'. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06.

FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello, William Swinson, 2005

14Trad 9m
2 Free Hangin

1 metre left of face with two FHs. Bridge between crack and sidewall, exit through the V break at the top of the crack.

FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless, 2006

5Trad 12m
3 Elizabeth

The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+).

FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001

16Trad 10m
4 Hunter Valley

Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001

12Trad 12m
5 Sheila G

Another mega line - not. Use boulder to start and gain arete, up to jugs and over.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

5Trad 12m
6 Philip

The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, 2001

5Trad 10m
7 Lovedale

The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of 'Semillon'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001

14Trad 10m
8 * Rosehill

Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001

17Trad 10m
9 Battle of the Bulge

The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006.

FA: Trevor Wall, Meily Effendy, Leigh Colless and Chris Tamavic, 2007

15Trad 12m
10 Semillon

Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001

16Trad 12m
11 Alpine Experience

Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

6Trad 12m
12 Leigh's Right

Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one.

FA: Leigh Colless, Cameron Barrett, 2007

16Trad 6m
13 * Mumjoy

In memory of Cameron's mother who died late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Begin as of 'Hunter Valley', traversing right into crack past FH. Follow crack line into roof, move out left under roof following crack to the top. Second may have a swing - two ropes might be useful.

FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless and Chris Tamavic, 2006

18Trad 12m
14 Kymba

Contrived, with bolts right next to crack. Shallow cracks, right of fixed hangers, to pocket move to orange rock and straight up to finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006

16Trad 12m
15 Project

Single FH with red tag.

FA: Cameron ect?, 2000

Trad 8m
16 Whinery Tour

Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner.

FA: Stu Dobbie, Jim Kane, Jack Lewis, 2005

14Trad 20m
17 Abbren

Crack line at far east end of cliff.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

6Trad 8m
18 If You’re Short, We Can Help

Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break.

FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello, 2005

17Trad 8m
19 * OP&OH

The corner starting above the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001

14Trad 12m
20 Topple Tor

Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête.

FA: Bedford

FA: Lyons, Gordon

FA: Gary, 2005

15Trad 15m
21 The First Post

Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top.

FA: Gordon Bedford, Gary Lyons, 2005

9Trad 12m
22 Aware

Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top.

FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005

16Trad 12m
23 Cold At Dawn

Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack.

FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005

15Trad 12m
24 Sentry Line

On the eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from 'Aware'. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow, left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang.

FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005

12Trad 15m
25 Sentry Arête

The right hand rib of the chimney.

FA: Gordon Bedford, Gary Lyons, 2005

5Trad 12m
1.1.14.1. Sentinel Cave 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.389453, -36.932076

Description:© (nmonteith)

One of the more popular 'dry in any weather' venues for the mid grade sport climber. This is a large cave high up in the valley behind Stapylton campground with an easy flat walk-in. This area features short and very steep sport routes on coarse orange rock. A large viewing area makes this a fun place to hang out with a bunch of mates and watch the sun set whilst cranking some of the sweet routes. Be very careful on the access traverse into the cave, one slip and you're dead. In wet weather it is advised to rope up for the scramble traverse into the cave and exit by abseiling back out of the cave.

Crag gets late afternoon sun in summer and full sun from midday in winter.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park at the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' aboriginal shelter carpark (Cave of Ghosts) which is south from the camping area. Walk south east following small track on the east side of a vegetated creek. A few minutes into the walk you will pass an isolated pillar of rock 'Castle Crag' with a few ok trad routes on it. Keep following the track, walking along flat ground amongst ferns with minor cliffs and boulders on your left. After 5 minutes the track goes into gumtrees, keep walking in the same direction on a vague track for another few minutes. Spot the cave itself in front and to the left a little up the hill in the distance.Try and locate some rock cairns and follow these left up a gentle hill. Follow left branch of 'creek' up small rock gully on the left side of the cave until you can traverse directly right across exposed rock to get into the cave. Two RB's are positioned along this traverse to use as an anchor to belay people who may be scared of the traverse. The ringbolt can also be used to abseil out of the cave when the traverse is wet from rain.

GPS - 36.55.900s, 142.23.372e

History:© (nmonteith)

Discovered by Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan in 2003 on a cold wet winter's day of misery. Drills arrived shortly after.

1.1.14.2. Sentinel Wall 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:© (nmonteith)

A small vertical wall with two good warm-up sport routes, and some very average trad routes. This orange wall is located opposite 'Sentinel Cave', just 100m away on the other side of the access gully. Scramble across to the left side and up right onto a ledge where the two bolted routes are. The trad routes are further right. Afternoon sun.

1.1.14.3. The Guardhouse 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (nmonteith)

Home of the gritty sloper and the quick pump! A small, gently overhung amphitheater of rock with a couple of good Blue Mountains style sport routes. The orange wall is clearly visible on the hillside when driving in from the west past the olive grove. Pack a handful of draws and some forearms.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Refer to map one level up for access. Start the walk in as for 'Sentinel Cave'. After hopping over a big dead tree about 8 minutes into the walk, and past the last of the small cliffs on the left, turn left and follow small creek bed steeply uphill heading for the semi-obvious orange wall high on the hill. Some rock cairns and yellow tape mark the way, but there is no good track (yet). Once you get to the crag itself scramble up ledges on the right and walk left to small fixed rope to get to base of wall. You can scramble up the grade 1 left hand side of the crag to reach the top if you wish. Be careful, the rock is shit and it's exposed!

Total approach time is 20 minutes. Shade and breezes until 2pm in summer. Most routes stay dry in light showers - but after extended rain the seepage drains down 'Little George' and 'Ranger Danger'.

1.1.14.4. Warden Wall 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

Small featured wall on left side of track about 100m past Mini 'Castle Crag' on the walk in to 'Sentinel Cave'. These are short trad routes on good rock. Topropes are easy to setup. Afternoon sun.

1.1.14.5. Campground Boulders 38 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.387344, -36.921344

1.1.14.6. Titanic Boulder 9 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.391108, -36.910842

Description:

A couple of boulders along side the Mt Stapylton walking track

Approach:

Coming soon...

History:

Coming soon...

1.1.14.7. Doddery Rock 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A very small plug of rock more suitable for bouldering than actual roped climbing. Ignoring that fact there are now 12 routes squeezed onto this 40 square metre block!

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Located about 40m before you reach the main 'Mt Pleasant' clifff line. There are climbs on all sides, so shade is possible all day. A bouldering mat could be more useful than a rope and rack.

1.1.14.8. Mt Pleasant 0 routes in Area
Description:© (nmonteith)

A small cliff within easy flat walking distance of the 'Mt Stapylton Campground'. The sort of thing you stumble across when killing time on a miserable wet weekend - and quite useful on those sorts of occasions. Only a few routes are actualy worth climbing here and some of the bolting is questionable (ie routes are contrived, short or bolts are right next to bomber trad)

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From the Aboriginal art site car park cross the creek (involves fighting through unpleasant thick new growth but is mercifully short) to the open flats beyond. Turn left and follow these flats for about 10 minutes to a small steep block distinguished by a large red overhang/cave across the front of the main buttress. The cliff has two prominent corner lines on its left side. The right hand one starts above the left end of the main cave and can be accessed from a handy block, this is OP&OH.

1.1.14.9. Sentry Wall 0 routes in Area
Description:© (nmonteith)

A very small gritstone-like crag with limited quality climbing. Can be padded out with some of the other smaller crags in the area to make a good day out.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Walk to Mini 'Castle Crag', then walk uphill eastwards up a broad gully through small rock terraces for about 150 metres to a small cliff with a narrow chimney near the left end. This is 'Sentry Wall'. Descent is either via the chimney, a gully due North of the chimney or at the southern end. Climbs are described from left to right.

1.2. The Black Range 253 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.085690, -37.103498

Description:

The Black Range is open, not affected by the January 2014 fires.

1.2.1. Black Ians Rocks 122 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.103598, -37.002915

Ethic:

To protect Aboriginal art work at Black Ian's Rocks, the VCC requests that you do not boulder in the camping cave and avoid these three routes 'No Rest For The Wicked', 'Jump For Joy' and 'In The Cooler'. It would also be appreciated if climbers used the left hand cracks to start 'Traversity Of Justice' and 'Malicious Intent'.

For more information about the art, contact Alan Burns at the Goolum Aboriginal Co-op, 03 5382 5033.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Who shot the Sheriff? 16Trad 10m
2 Holler for a Marshall 18Trad 10m
3 Aiding and Abetting 14Trad 10m
4 Summons 15Trad 12m
5 Royal Commission 11Trad 12m
6 First Offence 13Trad 11m
7 Detective Inspector Bribe-easy And Police Constable Porno 14Trad 10m
8 Crime Story 19Trad 10m
9 The Chair 12Trad 10m
10 TCU 17Trad 10m
11 * Bring In The Accused 22Trad 10m
12 Pleading Insane 23Trad 10m
13 Jail Bait 20Trad 10m
14 Shoot On Sight 19Trad 10m
15 Night Stalker Gets Gas Chamber 23Trad 10m
16 * Snapper Crack 22Trad 25m
17 * So What's the Verdict? 23Trad 20m
18 Settled out of Court 8Trad 12m
19 Settled out of Court Direct Finish 16Trad 20m
20 A Brush With The Law 16Trad 15m
21 Please Be Seated 13Trad 15m
22 Not Lichen the Verdict

Just R of Please be Seated up past 2 FH

FFA: Darren Marney & Ramon Francis, 3rd Aug

22Sport 12m, 2
23 Full Weight of the Law

Just L of Rumpole up past 2 FH to lower off under tumble of boulders which are surprisingly stable

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2nd Aug

24Sport 10m, 2
24 Rumpole 13Trad 15m
25 Vexatious Complaint

Start at base of Ipso Facto then head L & up past 2 FH to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 17th Aug

25Sport 12m, 2
26 Ipso Facto 15Trad 15m
27 Without Prejudice

Start on undercut arete 3m L of Slanderous Discourse. 4 FH

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 3rd Aug

23Sport 12m, 4
28 Unknown

Starts just left of Slanderous Discourse. Up past RB & wires to double UB abseil

FFA: Unknown

22Mixed 15m, 1
29 Slanderous Discourse 23Trad 14m
30 Minor Offence 14Trad 15m
31 G.B.H. 14Trad 20m
32 Loitering with Intent 21Trad 20m
33 Lichen Life

2m L of FiaCP a couple of medium wires & 4 FH

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 3rd Aug

21Mixed 18m, 4
34 Found in a Compromising Position

Start 5 left of Habeus Corpus. Straight up past 5FHs.

FFA: Ramon Francis, 1st Jul

20Sport 16m, 5
35 Habeus Corpus 13Trad 27m
36 Hard Labour 15Trad 25m
37 Bagatelle 12Trad 27m
38 Bail Refused 15Trad 30m
39 ** Sheep May Safely Graze 25Trad 25m
40 Peaceful Resolution

2m L of The Willows Milkbar. 3 RB's & small to medium wires.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Ben Eichler, 2001

25Mixed 23m, 3
41 The Willows Milkbar 23Trad 25m
42 Murder One 23Trad 25m
43 * Mr Meaner 22Trad 25m
44 Short Term 20Trad 15m
45 Breakout 10Trad 19m
46 Blunt Instrument 17Trad 12m
47 * Out of Line

Start 2m L of Pudgy. Up 3m out to arête. Keep on R wall avoiding L wall & chock-stone for full value, (& grade) move R at break up, back L & up. (Straight up from 2nd FH is "In Line" not done yet) 5 FH.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2nd Aug

24Sport 17m, 5
48 ** Pudgy 24Trad 25m
49 * Caveat Emptor 24Trad 25m
50 Barbed Tongue 17Trad 23m
51 ** Barbed Tongue Direct Finish 19Trad 23m
52 ** Red Tape 26Trad 20m
53 Cross Examination

Start 2m L of OK I Confess. Up past 3 FH reaching into OKIC for one hold then back L & long move up L to big ledge, finish as for OKIC.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 26th Jul

23Mixed 20m, 3
54 * OK, I Confess 23Trad 20m
55 The Jury Box 11Trad 21m
56 ** Affirmative Action

Start on blunt arête just R of Jury Box. 4 FH, after 4th FH stay R of arête on face for full value to a red BD C3 SLCD prior to topping out.

FFA: Ramon Francis, Darren Marnay & Dale Rankin, 15th Jun

24Mixed 17m, 4
57 Life and Death 23Trad 25m
58 Gavel Rash

2m Left of BRD 6FH to DRB lower off.

26Sport Project 18m, 6
59 Beyond Reasonable Doubt

Start 5m R of AA. Straight up past 4 FH & red or yellow BD C3, large & small wires.

FFA: Ramon Francis, 1st Jul

26Mixed 18m, 4
60 * Zuma 21Trad 25m
61 Divorce Proceedings 24Trad 20m
62 ** Prosecutor 18Trad 27m
63 Fatal Attraction 18Trad 30m
64 Persona Non Grata

Blunt arête past 2 FHs to half height then traverse way L into Prosecutor to finish.

FFA: David Blennerhassett, Darren Keenan, 1989

23Trad 25m
65 Persona Grata

As for Persona Non Grata but blast straight on up blunt arête past 3 more FHs

FFA: Ramon Francis, 2014

25Mixed 20m, 5
66 Life 24Trad 25m
67 * Decree Nisi 16Trad 25m
68 Unfit to Stand 17Trad 25m
69 Caught Short 20Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
70 Gallows Pole 17Trad 27m
71 ** Chancery Lane 18Trad 27m
72 ** Pleading the Fifth

Starts just right of RAaB. Very good technical face climbing past 5 bolts to lower off. Two reachy cruxes separated by moderate climbing. Will be harder for the vertically challenged

FFA: Adam Demmert, Ramon Francis, 14th Aug

24Sport 5
73 Robbery, Assault and Battery

Re-bolted by Glenn June 2014. Now 5 RB's to DUB lower off.

25Mixed 20m, 5
74 Final Appeal 17Trad 30m
75 Crime of Passion 23Trad 20m
76 Haley Beth 21Trad 35m
77 *** Objection Sustained 18Trad 21m
78 Traversity Of Justice / Travesty of Justice 22Trad 20m
79 * Malicious Intent 21Trad 23m
80 Malicious Intent Variant Start 14Trad 8m
81 * No Rest for the Wicked

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

23Trad 27m
82 Jump for Joy

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

23Trad 22m
83 * In The Cooler

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

24Trad 23m
84 ** Legal Aid 21Trad 27m
85 The Hanging Slab 20Trad 10m
86 * Down By Law 24Trad 20m
87 Power Without Glory 19Trad 23m
88 Power Without Glory Variant Start 16Trad 12m
89 * Carnal Knowledge 19Trad 28m
90 In Session 18Trad 16m
91 * Pro Bono Publico

Start as for In Session then head R past 5FH to cave. (New 3rd bolt added as original was desperate to clip) Exit steeply on R past 3FH to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 8th Jun

25Sport 20m, 8
92 Partially Not Guilty

As for Guilty until 2/3 height then traverse L on good edges into base of cave. Finish as for Pro Bono Publico past 3 FHs to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 8th Jun

20Mixed 20m, 3
93 Guilty 22Trad 20m
94 * Law and Order 23Trad 20m
95 *** Subpoena 17Trad 21m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
96 ** Street Legal

Re-bolted by Glenn Aug 2014. Now 4 RB's & DUB lower off. Lower off is easily accessible from the top.

24Mixed 20m, 4
97 * Hang On 20Trad 20m
98 * The Hanging 21Trad 20m
99 ** Magna Carta

Blunt arête just R of The Hanging 4 FHs to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 1st Jun

26Sport 16m, 4
100 Call the Next Witness Please 18Trad 15m
101 Call the Next Witness Please Direct 20Trad 25m
102 Mitigating Circumstances 20Trad 20m
103 False Pretences 10Trad 15m
104 The Enquiry 16Trad 16m
105 ** Legal Eagle 24Trad 15m
106 Doing Time 21Trad 15m
107 Acquitted 16Trad 12m
108 Press Gallery 17Trad 12m
109 On Probation 10Trad 12m
110 Operation Mindcrime 18Trad 16m
111 Petty Sessions 17Trad 18m
112 Petty Sessions Right Hand Variant 17Trad 18m
113 Stool Pigeon 15Trad 15m
114 * The Long Arm of the Law 21Trad 20m
115 The Dock 11Trad 15m
116 The Dock Roof 17Trad 20m
117 ** Itchy Fingers 24Trad 15m
118 * Scumbags of All Sorts 23Trad 16m
119 Salubrial Incandescence 23Trad 15m
120 Roger Mellie, Your Man on Tellie 16Trad 10m
121 Arresting the Sheriff 10Trad 10m
122 The Judges' Verdict 10Trad 15m

1.2.2. Mt Talbot 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.075507, -37.028924

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Small Friends And Fast Fucked Cars 23Trad 10m
2 You F. Littlewit 19Trad 12m
3 Finger-Fire 26Trad 8m
4 ** Big Wednesday 23Trad 10m
5 * Roger Ramset 24Trad 10m
6 * Monkey Business 24Trad 10m
7 Vacation 21Trad 35m
8 Ricentious Wonton 24Trad 35m
9 Skid Row 23Trad 8m
10 Dead poet 19Trad 15m
11 The Winds Of Change 14Trad 20m
12 Storm Warning 16Trad 20m
13 Treaty 12Trad 30m
14 Serengeti 12Trad 30m
15 How's Your Friend? 21Trad 10m
16 How's Your Father? 17Trad 20m
17 The Comeback Trail 16Trad 15m
18 Ozmosis 15Trad 15m
19 Going Through The Motions 16Trad 25m
20 Hi Fi Way 22Trad 9m
21 Valley Orgasm 18Trad 8m
22 Something-Or-Other 16Trad

1.2.3. Black Range Road Outcrop 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bogged To The Axles 16Trad 10m
2 Toffee Apple 5Trad 10m
3 No Rush

FA: S. McEachern, C. Bain, 2003

16Trad 15m
4 Miriamski 16Trad 15m
5 No One Home 13Trad 14m
6 Springboard 12Trad 14m
7 Fledgling 11Trad 18m
8 Weight For Age Handicap 14Trad 18m
9 Mud Runner 17Trad 14m
10 No Third Dividend 8Trad 14m
11 Sweepstake 18Trad 14m
12 A Relative Overdose 17Trad 14m
13 Back on Deck 12Trad 14m
14 Mayday, Mayday 16Trad 14m
15 Spike 21Trad 14m

1.2.4. Black Sheba's Buttress 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Darling It Hurts 17Trad 22m
2 * Toucan 18Trad 18m
3 ** Revenge Of The White Rhino 18Trad 20m
4 Eye For A Line 19Trad 22m
5 Tom Tom 15Trad 20m
6 Samburu 12Trad 22m
7 ** Sulawesi 21Trad 25m
8 Malaria 14Trad 25m
9 * Quinine 20Trad 25m
10 Jambo 20Trad 10m
11 Madagascar 18Trad 20m
12 Mombasa 15Trad 18m
13 ** Doxycycline

Bolted, 1 cam required to protect juggy top section.

FA: Jonny B, Chris D, Bec

24Trad 15m

1.2.5. Burrunj North 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Black Cat 8Trad 33m
2 Flatliner 19Trad 17m
3 In Search Of Water 14Trad 13m
4 Stoned Off Your Face 21Trad 12m
5 Cosmic Cowboy

FA: Mark Wood,David Coulson

19Trad 15m
6 Lick My Box 10Trad 12m
7 Malenka With Knives 16Trad 13m
8 * Escobar's Treasure 17Trad 15m
9 Aspro Junky 10Trad 10m
10 Mullet Goes Spawning 20Trad 15m
11 Wild Heather 19Trad 15m
12 Girls Coupe 19Trad 10m
13 Bikini Line 21Trad 10m
14 * Boy's Toupee 21Trad 20m
15 Boy's Toupee Left Hand Variant 20Trad 16m
16 Short And Curly 20Trad 20m
17 Steinmester'n 8Trad 20m
18 * Brylcream Supreme 20Trad 13m
19 Wigg Mistress 18Trad 13m
20 Lower Hawkesbury 14Trad 10m
21 Sink Or Swim 10Trad 12m
22 Toenail Eater 8Trad 40m
23 * Good As Gold 22Trad 12m
24 ** Bold As Brass 20Trad 12m
25 Mortality 14Trad 20m
26 Alex Can't Climb 12Trad 14m
27 The Atomic Clock 20Trad 25m
28 3|4 Time 19Trad 20m
29 Praxmarerkarspitze 11Trad 20m
30 Churned 6Trad 22m
31 Jessie The Wonder Dog 18Trad 10m
32 Hot Dog 17Trad 10m
33 Alien Head 5Trad 22m
34 Open Cut 13Trad 34m
35 Soap 10Trad 22m
36 ** Dial-A-Dyno 25Trad 20m
37 * Snatch It 23Trad 25m
38 * Victim Of Circus Pants

FA: Mark Wood, Simon Dale, 1997

21Trad 25m
39 * The Toilets Have Backed Up In The Warp Drive 21Trad 25m
40 The Toilets Have Backed Up In The Warp Drive Direct 21Trad 25m
41 Dog-watch 14Trad 15m
42 Sudden Impact 15Trad 20m
43 Sudden Impact Direct Start 16Trad
44 * Those Trees, Those Trees, Those Truffula Trees 22Trad 25m
45 Brush Off 14Trad 33m
46 Green Eggs And Ham 12Trad 35m
47 The Obeest 23Trad 23m
48 Salamanca 15Trad 30m
49 Overhead Cam 14Trad 30m
50 Hair of the Dog 17Trad 10m
51 * Gift of Stones 12Trad
52 Charlestone 4Trad

1.2.6. Burrunj South 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tom Foolery 14 M1Aid 20m
2 Way Out West 10Trad 10m
3 Where The Sun Don't Shine 10Trad 10m
4 A Change In Direction 16Trad 12m
5 Graduation 12Trad 25m
6 Zinno 17Trad 20m
7 Aardwolf 18Trad 32m
8 Soberenada 13Trad 34m
9 The Straight And Narrow 17Trad 27m
10 Suspended Sentence 17Trad 30m
11 Deimos 18Trad 30m
12 Phobos 18Trad 30m
13 Boldfinger 15Trad 30m
14 Benstirrer 12Trad 27m
15 Trend 11Trad 24m
16 ** Gingerbread Man 22Aid 24m
17 Strike 9Trad 30m
18 Alight 19Trad 25m
19 * Hot Tips 16Trad 20m
20 Side Track 12Trad 15m
21 Jelly Beans And Positrons 19Trad 20m
22 strike 9Trad 30m

1.2.7. Black Blocks 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Back In The Black 14Trad 20m
2 Way Out West 20Trad 28m

1.2.8. Ross Walls 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Domino Theory 13Trad 15m
2 Conny's Corner 15Trad 10m
3 Hairway To Steven 8Trad 10m

1.2.9. Thryptomene Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Space Mountain 18Trad 17m
2 Big Rubber Kok

Total Choss...Loose rock...Mankfest...We shouldn't have even been there...sorry to the property owner...

FA: Daniel Moore, Duncan Hamilton, Gareth Graham, 2004

8Trad 12m

1.3. Central Grampians 638 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.444747, -37.197472

1.3.1. Epacris Cliffs 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
1.3.1.1. Victory Wall 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.3.1.2. Koori Country 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
1.3.1.3. Livingstone 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.3.1.4. Cliff Richard 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.3.1.5. The Prow 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:

1.3.2. Boreang Campsite Area 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.396028, -37.177977

1.3.2.1. Paddys Castle 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Long/Lat: 142.396152, -37.177855

1.3.3. Bundaleer Area 203 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.474872, -37.198559

1.3.3.1. Bundaleer 137 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.476186, -37.189902

Description:© (jgoding)

Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), Dragon's Temple (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genisis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Just down the road from Mt Rosea but the road above 'Silverband' Falls is currently closed (until further notice).

Getting There:

'Bundaleer' is on the Rosea Track. This can be accessed from Halls Gap by travelling around 8kms up the Mt Victory Rd and turning left into Glenelg River Rd. Take a left turn into Stony Creek Rd and follow it to the locked gate where it intersects with Rosea Track. Turn right at Rosea Track and you will find the access track on the right opposite a small parking area. Even though the road is closed a bit beyond here please park well off the road as Rosea Track is used for fire access.

Camping:

Bush camping is currently prohibited in the fire affected areas of the park - "including the cave at Bundaleer".

The Boreang camp ground is on Glenelg River Rd beyond its intersection with Stony Creek Rd. (Camp fees apply.) It has 15 campsites (sheltered and open), toilets, 8 picnic tables and 8 fireplaces. Note that fires can only be lit in the designated fireplaces. Note also that there is "no" drinking water.

There are other camp grounds such as Borough Huts and Smiths Mill in the area that also have good facilities.

Access:

The access track leaves the road just over from the car parking bay. The track reaches the cliff just near Scarab. To access the routes to the right of Scarab there is a track branching to the right before a large boulder just before it meets the cliff.

Please use, and stick to, the track to access the cliff. It is important that no new tracks are made through the parts of hillside that are still trying to recover from the fire. There is still a lot of vegetation trying to establish itself in the area and it is important for stability that it be allowed to grow unimpeded. For those who remember it, the track used to follow the creek further up the hill and emerged at a "cave" formed by two large boulders. "This track is now closed and should not be used."

1.3.3.2. Bundaleer Lower Cliff 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.3.3.3. Calectasia Walls 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.3.3.4. Tower Hill 25 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.484059, -37.207671

1.3.3.5. Elephants Foot 4 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Aid
1.3.3.6. Equinox Walls 14 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.3.3.7. Western Wall 17 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The extensive escarpment north of Bundaleer is mostly juggy and of no interest. The exceptions are a pair of attractive buttresses near tghe east end, near the junction of Stony Creek Road and the Mount Rosea Track and another wall 200 metres right of these..

Approach:

From the road junction walk south-west on flat at foot of rising ground for about ten minutes. Now up a little to the left (east) to west-facing pair of buttresses.

1.3.3.8. Stony Peak 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

1.3.4. Mt Rosea 194 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.503106, -37.192664

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mount Rosea is one of the premier adventure climbing crags in 'Victoria'. At its best it offers superb grey stone set just on or just below vertical for three or four pitches.

Description:

With the base of the climbs at 800 metres the cliff is good for climbing in all but the hottest weather despite facing north-east with few permanently shaded area. However it can get very cold when it goes into the shade in mid-afternoon even on otherwise fine days.

For ease of finding routes the cliff is described in five blocks. First there are the three main climbing areas: 'Left side', 'Giant's Staircase' and 'Main Cliff'. Left are the climbs below and left of the Giant's Staircase. Giant's Staircase has the climbs left of the landmark of 'Tourist Buttress' and then left and up the Giant's Staircase. Main Cliff' has all the climbs on 'Tourist Buttress' and to the right from there. Then there are the fairly worthless Northern and Summit cliffs which can be ignored by anyone not utterly desperate for new routes.

All documented climbs should be in here though not all have topos.

Useful Info: This is not a good cliff for beginners. Many of the easier climbs tend to be poorly protected and follow complex routes offering many opportunities to stray into hostile territory. The "serious" flag has been liberally applied to these climbs. To enjoy leading at Rosea you should be leading about grade 14 trad.

The cliff suffers from the scourge of the "select" guidebook. Routes that are not in the "select" guide tend to be rarely climbed and are becoming dirty.

Many years ago the starts of most of the climbs were marked with a small white square and the initials of the climb name. While it makes the start of the climbs easier to find it is not a practise that should be encouraged and the initials are not being redone as they fade. Where the initials are still visible they are referred to as either clear (visible from some metres away), faded (easy to see when close), or faint (there but easily missed). It's interesting that people have been known to do the wrong climb by relying on the initials: there are 3 climbs at Rosea with the clearly visible initials CC at the start.

Access Issues:

The final access restrictions at Rosea were lifted prior to Easter 2013.

Approach:

Take Grampians Road (Halls Gap - Wartook road) to the Sundial turn-off. Follow this for a few kilometres to the Rosea parking area. From here follow the Mount Rosea walking track for about 5 minutes until a well-defined track goes off to the left and a walking track signpost indicates that the walking track continues straight ahead. Take the track on the left which contours across the slope and eventually a series of hairpin bends lead to the foot of the cliff. Please don't cut the corners on these bends as the hillside erodes easily.

Descent for the majority of the climbs on the main faces is via a walk along the walking track at the top and down the Giant's Staircase. For climbs on Main Cliff' and Giant' Staircase, follow the walking track towards the summit (south-east). For climbs on the Left side, follow the walking track away from the summit. The turn-off to the Giant's Staircase is sometimes marked with tape or cairns (current Nov 2013). It is not really obvious but it is just a little towards the summit side from a low point on the track. GPS reading for top of Giants Staircase: 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E. Try not to make any additional trails in this area. Hopefully a sign will be erected here at some stage showing the people on the main track which way they should be going.

1.3.4.1. North Cliff 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This cliff, well to the right of the main climbing area is glaringly obvious from the walking track. However it's also obvious why so little interest has been shown in it. Natural protection is sparse and vast amounts of loose rock will have to be removed first if you're to remain sane (and keep your head). The cliff has received more than one visit from climbers but this is the only climbing that has been done.

This cliff has not yet been visited to check any details.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Walk up the Mount Rosea Track for five minutes until the cliff is visible above. Head straight up through open bush, then on scree. Grid Reference 327834.

1.3.4.2. Left Side 69 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

The left side of Rosea is the area below the Giant's Staircase and moving left from there. Unfortunately the upper sections of the climbs here tend to break down and there can be a lot of dirt and bushes in these parts. This does tend to detract from what are often high quality lower pitches. It is not until the area around The Last Act is reached that the climbing could be said to be good all of the way to the top. Still, there are many great climbing experiences here. You could do a lot worse than setting out to climb all of the Dewhirst/Zielke routes done in 1969-70.

Approach:

Head off left at the third hair-pin bend on the walking-track. The route across below the cliffs is currently somewhat overgrown and rough and there is some fallen timber.

Descent Notes:

Climbs close to 'The Last Act' can abseil down this route either from the terrace at the top of 'Dinosaur Gully' or the very top. Requires 2 x 50m ropes. Alternatively follow the walking track back along the cliff-top to the top of the Giant Staircase which may be marked by tape and/or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E

1.3.4.3. Giant's Staircase 44 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

The area left of Tourist Buttress and up the Giant's Staircase along the old walking track has some of the earliest climbs done at Rosea. This does not mean that it is studded with classics, far from it. While the small area around Martin Eden offers a handful of brilliant climbs much of the rest around here is mediocre.

Approach:

Where the walking track hits the cliff it does a final hairpin turn and then climbs left up the Giant's Staircase. A pad moves off right at this point along the cliffline towards the major landmark that is Tourist Buttress, about thirty metres right of where the track meets the cliffs. The climbs in the Giant's Staircase area are described starting on the left side of Tourist Buttress and moving left.

Descent Notes:

Follow a rough track south-east along the top until the walking track is reached. Follow the track to the top of the Giants Staircase. The top of this is often marked with tapes or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E

1.3.4.4. Main Cliff 75 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.501925, -37.189975

Description:

The section of rock from 'Tourist Buttress' to 'Mixed Climb' comntains some of the best multi-pitch climbs in Victoria. This area includes everything moving right from the left edge of 'Tourist Buttress'.

Approach:

Where the walking track meets the cliff a pad goes off to the right and the base of 'Tourist Buttress' is 30 metres along this pad.

Descent Notes:

Most routes go to the top of the cliff and descent is by following a rough track south-east along the top until the walking track is reached. This track is then followed to the top of the Giants Staircase. The top of this is often marked with tapes or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E Apart from an unsightly chain anchor on the first belay of 'Debutante', existing abseil descents have relied on trees. Many of these were severely damaged or died in the fires in 2006 and should be regarded with suspicion.

1.3.4.5. Summit Areas 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This covers the cliffs encountered on the walking track after reaching the top of the Giant's Staircase. At this stage this includes the area known as Gate of The East Wind as well as the very summit. None of this has been checked as yet but, despite the great situation the climbing doesn't sound good. Location:

Approach:

These climbs can be approached by following the standard tourist track but it is assumed that the usual approach will be up the Giant's Staircase. Gate Of The East Wind is located 300-400m past the top of the Giant Stairway on the walking track. It is a deep, cool cleft. The track crosses the cleft over huge boulders with a metal hand rail. Access the cliff by walking right after the hand rail (away from the cliff) and into the gully. Summit Cliff : About 50 metres right (facing out) from the summit lookout is a southeast-facing grey wall about 30 metres high, distinguished by a couple of horizontal roof lines reminiscent of Bundaleer. Reach this by walking about 100 metres right (looking out) along the cliff top to a broad gully and abseil tree (?) from where a 25 metre abseil gains a broad vegetated terrace. Walk back left to the base of the wall.

1.3.5. Henham Track Area 62 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
1.3.5.1. Western Bloc 25 routes in Crag
Summary:
Access Issues:

All public access to this area is prohibited due to the rock-wallaby rehabilitation project

1.3.5.2. Moora Rocks 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.3.5.3. Cirque Creek 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.3.5.4. Castle Creek 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.3.5.5. Burkes Backyard 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.3.5.6. Bechervaise Rocks 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.3.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff 10 routes in Crag
Summary:

1.3.6. Eastern Wall Cliffs 138 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.469057, -37.215630

Access Issues:

All public access to this area is prohibited due to the rock-wallaby rehabilitation project.

1.3.6.1. Tienanmen 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.3.6.2. Kamchatka 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.3.6.3. The Peking Face 57 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.469454, -37.215256

Description:© (jgoding)

A classic cliff containing a good spread of quality routes in to the low 20's. More 'old fashioned' than many, expect a little loose rock and bring your hexes!

Approach:© (jgoding)

NOTE: this area is currently closed

There are two ways to access Peking face. For dedicated car bashers: Drive to 'Bundaleer' via the stony creek track. Keep going for another 4.4km or so until 200m past the Moora track junction where a campsite appears on the left.

For non-car bashers: From Boreong Campsite, head south along the Homestead road for 2km to the junction with the Rosea track. Follow the Rosea track for 5.5km to a nice secluded creekside campsite on the right. If you reach the Moora track junction you've gone a couple of hundred meters too far. This route still a bit rough and low slung cars may have issues on the creek crossings.

Locate the track on the west bank of the creek and up to the cliff to a point a few meters right of 'Ancient Warriors'.

1.3.6.4. The Shanghai Face 17 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.3.6.5. Burma Wall 42 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.3.6.6. Eastern Rocks 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

1.3.7. Castle Rock 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Access Issues:

All public access to this area is prohibited due to the rock-wallaby rehabilitation project

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Little Quince 19Trad 45m
2 * Portcullis 18Trad 45m
3 * Moat 13Trad 45m
4 The Last Straw 12Trad 70m
5 Chain Male 8Trad 14m
6 Mylady 6Trad 12m
7 Buxom Wench 17Trad 34m
8 Days of Old 17Trad 40m
9 * Mind Fragment 17Trad 30m
10 Hathersage 15Trad 20m

1.4. Halls Gap Area 766 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.537188, -37.165171

1.4.1. Northern Wonderland Range 283 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.508237, -37.155676

Approach:© (armstp)

There is a signposted walking track leading from Halls Gap to the Pinnacle. The track starts from the corner of the camp ground just beyond the swimming pool. Follow it turning off to the L towards the Pinnacle. This approach heads up under Mackey's Peak via a modern track that appears to have been constructed by bolting several thousand barbeque plates together. The track continues to the Pinnacle and most of the cliffs in this section are accessed from this track.

1.4.1.1. Socrophiliac Buttress 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.1.2. Mackeys Peak 21 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.511552, -37.140391

Description:© (armstp)

This is the obvious cliff at the Northern end of the 'Wonderland' Range looming over Halls Gap. The cliff is marked by a number of prominent vertical lines [mostly chimneys] and some big rooves. Whilst the climbing here is not great it is easily accessible from Halls Gap and has some quite good and long overlooked middle grade routes. It also has the awe inspiring roof climb Grand Cappucinno 26, and a very steep sport route St Elmo's Fur 25.

Approach:© (armstp)

There is a signposted walking track leading from Halls Gap to the Pinnacle. The track starts from the corner of the camp ground just beyond the swimming pool. Follow it turning off to the L towards the Pinnacle. This approach heads up under Mackey's Peak via a modern track that appears to have been constructed by bolting several thousand barbeque plates together. It is probably best to follow the track up until it gets very close to the cliff then head across to its base [probably somewhere around Jagger] If heading to St Elmo's Fur stay on the track until you are under it [look for tat high up on a steep orange wall around the LH end of the cliff] To descend from climbs on the main Mackey's Peak face head up and L towards the summit, just beyond the summit it is possible to pick up an old marked [but now abandoned] walking track which leads down into a gully and out to the main track. Do not try to descend to the R from the top of the climbs.

1.4.1.3. The Elephants Hide 6 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.508719, -37.140840

Description:© (armstp)

Gives some interesting slabby routes on the lower R edge of the Elephants Hide feature. This is the back slope of Mackey's peak. Only one of the climbs is really well enough protected to be popular. A few more bolts and the repositioning of some existing bolts could make the area more attractive. However, this is a very visible and popular tourist area so inconspicuous glued carrots would be the way to go.

Approach:© (armstp)

Take the track from Halls Gap to Venus Bath. Continue a further 300m up Stony Creek until you reach a smooth slab with some carrot bolts sticking out of it. For ease of identification routes are described R to L.

1.4.1.4. The Tower of Paine 9 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.1.5. Wild Geese Wall 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.1.6. Wild Flower Wall 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.1.7. Blockbuster Buttress 10 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.1.8. Crock Wall 18 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:

From Halls Gap, walk up the trail to the Mackeys Peak turnoff. Continue along the trail for another 300m, past another pinnacle, then cut directly down through the bush to find a low rock wall after about 100m. Follow this wall to the right(south) for 100-150m until it grows up to be a proper little cliff.

1.4.1.9. Point Sunshine (Dawn Wall) 13 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.1.10. The Lower Goon 18 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.1.11. The Upper Goon 19 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.1.12. Signal Peak 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.1.13. Frenchmans Beret 6 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.1.14. Wonderland Carpark Access 0 routes in Area
Description:

This includes all of the following cliffs which are around the Grand Canyon Area

Approach:

Park at the Wonderland Carpark [access for the very popular Grand Canyon/Pinnacle walk] and follow the trail to the Pinnacle.

1.4.1.15. The Grand Canyon 60 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.505356, -37.151864

1.4.1.16. The Underworld 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This rather dank cliff is approached from the track between the Wonderland Carpark and the Wall of China.

Approach:

Start from Wonderland Carpark. Where track emerges from the top of Grand Canyon it goes over a rock outcrop for 300m then becomes sandy. Turn L here, walk down to creek and up other side to cliff [5 mins from track]...Faces SW.

1.4.1.17. The Wall of China 75 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.506897, -37.154986

Description:

The Wall of China area has the largest collection of accessible middle grade routes on good rock close to Halls Gap. Whilst the Main Wall is the most obvious and attractive cliff the climbs on the Southern Outcrops are worth checking out. Climbing on the Main Wall is unfortunately right next to the most popular easy walking track in the Grampians; expect an audience. The Southern Cliffs are mostly out of the public view.

Approach:

Follow the Pinnacle tourist track from the Wonderland car park. Take the RH branch of the track just after crossing the creek [before it descends into the Grand Canyon] and follow it to the Cool Chamber and Echo Cave. This is the RH end of the Main Wall area. The LH end is marked by the obvious bulging crack line of Chinese Take-away

1.4.1.18. Garden of the Grampians 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Small cliff with some good lines and rock in the lower middle grades.

Approach:

Follow the Pinnacle Walking track past the Wall of China area to a major track heading off on the right. Follow this for about 500m then head R through scrub to some small buttresses about 150m away.

1.4.2. Southern Wonderland Range 216 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.519281, -37.179831

Approach:© (jgoding)

Halls Gap region - generally looking over Lake Bellfield

1.4.2.1. Weathered Wall 38 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.4.2.2. The Pinnacle 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.2.3. The Fallen Giant Area 13 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.2.4. Sign Cemetery 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.4.2.5. Beanstalk Wall-Hidden Gem 10 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.2.6. Neurology Wall 19 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.2.7. Bellfield Peak 8 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.518035, -37.165325

Unique Features And Strengths:

This major peak south of The Pinnacle looks impressive but hasn't lived up to that promise. It does have a few good pitches though.

Approach:

Park at the Sundial car-park and follow the walking track north down into Devil's Gap and up onto the top of Bellfield Peak (20-25 minutes). Descend the gully on the north end of the peak and bash back around to the climbs. An abseil approach down 'Rolling Thunder' is convenient to most of the climbs. One 60 metre abseil or 2 x 30 metre. Watch the rope ends, there isn't much rope to spare on these. GPS ref for the abseil is Lat 37;9;53.999 Long 142;31;5.400

For the very left end of the cliff (only 1 climb), cut off to the right before the track climbs up to the top. This isn't a viable approach to the other climbs as the base of the cliff drops away at one point.

1.4.2.8. Lower Wurzlegummage Wall 6 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.2.9. Upper Wurzlegummage Wall 10 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.2.10. Smaller Walls 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.2.11. Lookout Point Wall 18 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (jgoding)

Nice beginner friendly area. A 15m static rope might be handy to setup belays at the top. See the 1999 Rock guide "Wonderland Range" for full route descriptions until someone can be bothered to write them up here...

Approach:© (jgoding)

An easy walk that is no more than 600 metres from the carpark.

Take the track that points to "Lake View Lookout" from The 'Sundial' Car park. After around 300 metres there is a fork in the track. The right hand path takes you to the official "Lakeview Lookout", ignore that. Take the left fork for another 150 metres up timber and stone steps to where you will arrive at the clifftop which has views over Lake Bellfield. The track to the right (south) takes you to the descent gully.

1.4.2.12. Lake View Wall 10 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:

An easy walk that is no more than 600 metres from the carpark.

Take the track that points to "Lake View Lookout" from The 'Sundial' Car park and follow it to the fenced lookout. Leave the track about 30 metres before the lookout, just after the last rock outcrop on the left side of the track. Head up through light bush to rock on left, skirt round this and descend to north-east to cairned gully/ramp.

1.4.2.13. Old Wave Wall 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Aid
1.4.2.14. Devils Peak 9 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Aid
Description:© (jgoding)

Very visible from the road below. It's thought to be best approached from below (see 1999 Rock "Wonderland Range" guide for details). Approx 45mins walk in.

1.4.2.15. The Workshop 12 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Aid
Description:© (jgoding)

Good climbing and some attractive lines.

Approach:© (jgoding)

About 400m right (looking up at the cliff from below) of 'The Observatory'. Best approached from above via 'The Observatory' along small but good track (yellow tape marks the start). See the 1999 Rock guide "Wonderland Range" for full route descriptions until someone can be bothered to write them up here...

1.4.2.16. The Observatory 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Aid
Description:© (jgoding)

Fantastic aspect. See the 1999 Rock guide "Wonderland Range" for full route descriptions until someone can be bothered to write them up here...

Approach:© (jgoding)

Best accessed from the 'Sundial' carpark. Walk towards the Sun Dial for about 20m until you pass two long (one's about 35m, the next one is about 30m) wooden "duck board" sections of the track - follow this about 300m further on passing some timber steps (about 6 or 8?) then a single stone step. Around this (just before I think) there is a cairn on the track and just visible about 30m into the bush to your left (east) is some yellow tape on a tree. Follow this, more yellow tape and more cairns for about 10 mins more. The track goes downhill fairly steeply. Slightly right off the track here will take you to the 'Observatory'. Stick to the marked (with yellow tape) track which will take you along the cliff edge on a good small track to the Workshop.

1.4.2.17. Sundial Peak 25 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.518716, -37.183928

Description:© (jgoding)

Generally sandy and chossy but maybe one or two decent routes to make it worth the (very nice) walk.

Approach:© (jgoding)

About 400m left of 'The Observatory' as you look up at it from the Road below. See the 1999 Rock guide "Wonderland Range" for full route descriptions until someone can be bothered to write them up here...

1.4.2.18. Pump Rock 4 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.2.19. The Guardians 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.2.20. Lower Sundial Peak 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

1.4.3. Pomonal Area 42 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.575716, -37.190256

1.4.3.1. Crazed Rock 12 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.3.2. Dazed Rock 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.3.3. Blazed Rock 24 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.577867, -37.191153

Description:© (willmonks)

A good crag with easy access and a good range of climbs.

The route descriptions are taken from "Climbers' Handbook to the 'Wonderland' Range and Halls Gap Area" edited by Bill Andrews (published late 80's(?)) and the "South-Eastern 'Grampians' Update" compiled by Bill Andrews and available online.

Climbs described right to left. Most of the climbs have not been verified.

Note that the area was burnt during the 2006 fires so references to trees in route descriptions are probably superfluous as the fire was quite intense. Also, the ground coverage is still quite sparse so please try to avoid damaging the area.

Approach:© (willmonks)

From the Halls Gap-Stawell Rd, travel 7.5 kms towards Pomonal/Ararat to Tunnel Rd. Turn right into Tunnel Rd and travel to the very end where the water pipe from Lake Bellfield emerges.

Walk the signposted walking track for around 10 minutes where 'Blazed Rock' will appear about 50 metres uphill on the right.

View Larger Map

1.4.3.4. Arch Wall 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

Although west of the ridge, this crag is accessed from the East side so it's been placed under the Northeast 'Mt William' Range.

1.4.4. Town Cliffs 97 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

Note: 'The Grand Old Man', 'Jacks Rest', 'Fallen Slab Wall' and 'Arch Wall' have previously been grouped in this Northwest area. However, these 4 crags are located high on the range and, while they either face west and/or are just on the west side of the ridge, they are accessed from the east (Pomonal) side. Therefore they have been placed in the Northeast 'Mt William' Range section (over here).

1.4.4.1. Musbury Crags 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.4.4.2. Base Camp Buttress 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.4.4.3. Town Slab 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.4.4.4. Boulder Rock 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.4.4.5. The Pyramid 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.4.4.6. Budja Budja 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

A small orange outcrop, can be a pleasant afternoon in the not too hot weather. There are some more small climbs on outcrops above this area if you can find them.

Approach:

Follow the tourist track from the end of Tanderra Road as for Boronia Peak. At the junction of the management vehicle track and the Boronia Peak walking track, head south West through open bush for around 200 mts untill you meet an apron of rock. Follow thisto the right (South) then up to the next tier above and to the base of a small wall.

1.4.4.7. Mt Ida 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
1.4.4.8. Peverill Pillar 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:© (willmonks)

A small cliff with some strong middle grade lines on excellent rock. Well worth visiting if staying near Halls Gap. Routes described R to L as the RH end is right next to the old track.

Approach:© (willmonks)

The walking track to the summit of Boronia Peak used to go right past this cliff, within 5m in fact. However, the track was re-routed and the start of the old track covered over. If you can find it then it is a quick way to the cliff. Otherwise it is easier to find from the top, but this is a much longer walk. I have described the access this way as the original way is very hard to locate. Park at the end of Tandarra Drive which runs east from the Halls Gap-Dunkeld road just out of Halls Gap heading towards Dunkeld. Follow the track across the creek and keep following signs to Boronia Peak. Once on top of the range around the 3rd saddle an old walking track takes off on the R [down towards Halls Gap]. Within about 10 minutes this passes under a clean pillar of rock with some distinct crack lines. This is Peverills Pillar.

1.4.4.9. The Radiator 11 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

Easy access with clean orange rock on it's Western side, 3 routes on dirty rock on it's Southern face.

Approach:

From the end of Tanderra Road follow the tourist track as for Boronia Peak. After crossing Fyans Creek take the left branch for about 50mts. Head up hill to cross the management vehicle track (at a rise in the track) and continue uphill untill the cliff is visable and is reached in about 15 minutes from the car park. The main face is slightly uphill to the right.

1.4.4.10. Tanderra Rocks 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Approach:© (armstp)

Another small cliff accessed from the end of Tanderra Road. Cross Fyans Creek on the footbridge and immediately take R fork in walking track. Very soon it reaches a vehicle track. Go a short distance L up this main vehicle track running belwo 'Mt William' Range. Go R [SE] on this 100m then head uphill in open bush to L outcrop.

1.4.4.11. Crocodile Rock 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:© (willmonks)

Quite good climbing and relatively easy access. A nice spot for a spring or autumn afternoon when it catches the sun.

Approach:© (willmonks)

This is a farily square cut block overlooking the National Park visitors centre. Approach from the end of Tanderra Rd. Cross the bridge over Fyans Creek then head R and up to the jeep track. Follow this South [R] until it climbs to a saddle. Head up hill from here to the cliff.

1.4.4.12. Tombstone Rock 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
Description:

The bridge at the back SE corner of the Grampians National Park gives easy access to a number of small cliffs of mostly good clean rock low on the hillside. The cliffs are all clearly visible from in front of the Visitors Centre.

Approach:

Cross the bridge and in front of you there is a long broken cliff line across the spur between 2 major gullies. The LH end of the cliff line at the LH gully is the Gully Cliff. R of this about 150m is a wall with two lines up its front. This is Tombstone Rock. 150m R again of this is a clean grey block dead ahead. This is the Peanut Gallery. The blocks just before the RH gully are Pinnacle Rocks. Follow the walking track across the cleared area to the trees. 50m into the trees leave the track and head R then veer L to follow the L side of a gully up hill to the 4wd track. Walk L on this and at the high point head up and L for Tombstone Rock and the Gully Cliffs. Head up and slightly R for the Peanut Gallery.

For Pinnacle Rocks walk R on the 4wd track to the first high point then head straight up hill. About 15 minutes to each cliff.

1.4.4.13. The Peanut Gallery 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Approach:© (armstp)

Park in Visitor Centre carpark. Cross Fyans Creek on the bridge near the SE corner of the centre. From the paddock beyond the bridge the cliff is visible above and slightly to the L [NE]. Walk across the cleared area to the trees. 50m into the trees head R then veer L to follow the L side of a gully up hill to the 4wd track. Walk L on this and at the high point head up and slightly R to the cliff.

1.4.4.14. Samba Rocks 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:© (armstp)

Small buttresses near National Park Visitor Centre. The original write up for the area mentioned 3 routes but only 2 seem to have been written up. There are signs that a number of faces have been cleaned and climbed, possibly by instructional groups for abseilling and top roping.

Approach:© (armstp)

Park in Visitor Centre carpark. Cross Fyans Creek on the bridge near the SE corner of the centre. From the paddock beyond the bridge the very top of the outcrops can be seen above the trees ahead and to the R. Walk to the far edge of the paddock then R 100m and uphill 100m

1.4.4.15. The Pinnacles 9 routes in Crag
Summary:
Access Issues:

The bridge at the back SE corner of the Grampians National Park Visitors Centre [Brambuk] gives easy access to a number of small cliffs of mostly good clean rock low on the facing hillside. The cliffs are all clearly visible from in front of the Visitors Centre. Cross the bridge and in front of you there is a long broken cliff line across the spur between 2 major gullies. The blocks just before the RH gully are The Pinnacles. From the bridge follow the walking track across the cleared area to the trees. 50m into the trees head R then veer L to follow the L side of a gully up hill to the 4wd track. Walk R on this and at the first high point head up hill and R to The Pinnacles. About 15 minutes to the lower cliff which is on the spur just before the hill drops into the RH gully.

History:

I believe this cliff was first visited by Chris Baxter in 2007. According to a list of cliffs and routes around Halls Gap which Chris wrote but which was published in Argus after his death whatever routes he did on this cliff were not written up. He tantalisingly listed just one route “Year of the Cat” but never wrote it up as far as I am aware. It is possible that some of these routes were first climbed by Chris.

1.4.4.16. The Terraces 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:

1.4.5. Boroka Area 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
1.4.5.1. Boroka Hill 1 route in Crag
Summary:
1.4.5.2. Boroka Buttress 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.4.5.3. Fyans View Wall 4 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.4.5.4. The Sun Deck 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.4.5.5. Boroka Butress 2 routes in Crag
Summary:

1.4.6. Lake Bellfield 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.560670, -37.185222

1.4.6.1. Pastoral Buttress 12 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.4.6.2. Rural Rocks 10 routes in Crag
Summary:

Long/Lat: 142.544960, -37.169835

1.4.6.3. Little Joe Hill 8 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.4.6.4. The Grand Old Man 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
Description:© (willmonks)

Although west of the ridge, this crag is accessed from the East side so it's been placed under the Northeast 'Mt William' Range.

1.4.6.5. Livingstone 1 route in Crag
Summary:
1.4.6.6. Netherby Towers 4 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.4.6.7. Jacks Rest 1 route in Crag
Summary:
Description:© (willmonks)

Although west of the ridge, this crag is accessed from the East side so it's been placed under the Northeast 'Mt William' Range.

1.4.6.8. Rock of Ages 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
1.4.6.9. Power Tower 1 route in Crag
Summary:
1.4.6.10. Fallen Slab Wall 1 route in Crag
Summary:
Description:© (willmonks)

Although west of the ridge, this crag is accessed from the East side so it's been placed under the Northeast 'Mt William' Range.

1.4.7. South-East Mt Difficult Range 70 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.518720, -37.118727

1.4.7.1. forest rock 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.7.2. The Watchtower 52 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.522484, -37.121873

Description:© (jgoding)

Easy to get to with a few decent routes.

Possibly the best climbing area within walking distance of Halls Gap, the Watchtower offers some good single pitch mixed sport and trad routes, easily accessible on a 40m high outcrop. The area is shady and the grey rock provides some slabby to near vertical terrain.

Approach:© (jgoding)

From Halls Gap heading to Stawell turn left immediately before the bridge onto the dirt road (Halls Gap-Mt Zero Rd) follow it for about a 1km until a car park on the left is apparent opposite paddocks. From car park follow track up hill for about 5mins the first line on the seen from the track is 'Flying Buttress'.

Routes are described from the far left (i.e. upper left terraces) to far right (i.e. separate pinnacles and upper terraces).

1.4.7.3. Clematis Falls 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.7.4. Clematis Bluffs 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.4.7.5. Chatauqua Peak 11 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.513047, -37.132438

Description:© (armstp)

This cliff sits directly above Halls Gap. 'Access' is relatively easy and the climbing might be of some interest if you are staying in Halls Gap and looking for routes within walking distance. With one or two exceptions quality is not very high. The cliff is shaded on summer afternoons. A rap station services several of the climbs and avoids dirty loose top pitches.

Approach:© (armstp)

From Halls Gap drive up the Mt Victory road for about a km to a small parking area and the start of the 'Chatauqua Peak' walking track on the R. Alternately walk to this point from behind the pool and car park in Halls Gap [adds about 10 mins]. Follow the track to the saddle from where a route heads up the peak. Head about 150m towards the peak then drop/scramble down on the L to the foot of the cliff. Follow the cliff L ward. Routes are described L to R as you hit them.

1.4.8. Wonderland Boulders 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

There is a huge variety of boulders throughout the Wonderland area. Most boulders are located just by the walking trails and are easily accessible while there is more potential for others anywhere and everywhere within the region.

Approach:

From Wonderland carpark take any of the selected trails.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Winter Wonderland

Two Hand sit-start up to thin edges and eventual jugs to the top.

V5Boulder
2 open project

Slopey and crimpy, partially overhanging and at least 6m high. Makes for an amazing boulder problem. Perhaps V9 or above.

V9Boulder Project 6m

1.5. South-Eastern Grampians 831 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.485473, -37.399449

1.5.1. Seven Dials Area 269 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.573621, -37.232339

1.5.1.1. Davy Jones Locker 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

A narrow buttress of limited potential off of the Redmans Road. Loose blocks and uninspiring lines are likely to keep the masses away.

Approach:© (willmonks)

1.5km east of the Halls Gap/Dunkeld along the Redmans Rd is a tunout on the L. The cliff is the highest and most continuous buttress seen directly across the creek. A vague track across the creek follows an old aqueduct then bash R to reach the foot of the cliff. Descend to the L.

1.5.1.2. Blind Mans Bluff 11 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

This entry covers all of the long broken cliff line ending about 400m before 'Barbican Wall'. There are some some good individual buttresses and routes but much broken rubbish in between. The most impressive section is at the RH end around 'The Prow' which is where the easiest approach lands you. An upper cliff above the LH end has some good quality steep rock but discontinuous lines.

Approach:© (willmonks)

2.9km along the Redmans Road from the Halls Gap Dunkeld Rd. Park when directly beneath the most impressive section of cliff. Descent is best by abseil.

1.5.1.3. Barbican Wall 43 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

An old fashioned cliff with easy access and some good middle grade climbs. It faces South and gets little sun in winter, but is consequently a good summer destination. The hill sides and gullies around here tend to be very steep and particularly since the big fires of 2006 there is a lot of unstable rock on the ground and on the cliff. Helmets are recommended. The danger of rock fall makes much of the area unsuitable for large groups.

Approach:© (willmonks)

3.3 km East of the Halls Gap - Dunkeld road on the Redmans Road. There is a large boulder on the L with [usually] a cairn on it. There is a slightly overgrown spot to park 1 or 2 cars on the R of the road just beyond this. There is no real track any more so just follow tape markers up hill to hit the cliff just R of a large steep gully. Since the fires the descent gullies have become very unstable and many of the traditional abseil trees are dead or badly burned.

Abseil rings have been placed at the top of the 'Queequeg' buttress. One 50m abseil [2 x 50m ropes] reaches the ground. If descending at the LH end of the cliff cairns have been placed leading to this abseil point which is reached easily from the top of the central part of the cliff. At the RH end of cliff a number of unstable gullies lead down R of 'Scurvy', some needing short abseils at the bottom.

1.5.1.4. Barbican Rocks 48 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

This Cliff is most famous for 'The Lonely Sea' Block which boasts a handful of absolute 'Grampians' classics. Whilst the routes around 'The Lonely Sea' are on many climbers tick lists it would be a shame if the other routes here were ignored. For the adventurous trad climber looking for single and multi pitch routes in the 18+ range there are some good outings to be had.

Like 'Barbican Rocks' this is a good summer destination as the cliff is shady for much of the day.

Be warned however that a number of the older easier routes ascend some of the most disgusting looking gully lines ever climbed and recorded as routes. Some work still needs to be done clearly identifying where some of the more recent routes are actually located.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow Redmans Rd 3.7km from the Halls Gap/Dunkeld Rd. A small bridge crosses Barney's Creek here. Park just the bridge. Cross back over the bridge and head uphill looking out for the odd tape marker. There is no real track.

With a few new abseil stations this area is a little more user friendly but more are needed. At present mechanical abseil anchors are only available at the top of TLS block and above 'Pineapple Jack'. Neither of these are accessible after topping out on the cliff. If climbing at the RH end of the cliff find a tree to abseil off, there are enough of them around. At the LH end there is a steep unstable descent gully just L of 'Pineapple' Jack

1.5.1.5. The First Dial 36 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.1.6. The Watch Face 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.1.7. The Second Dial 32 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.1.8. Coyote Wall 4 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.1.9. The Fourth Dial 73 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

An old fashioned cliff with an adventurous feel. Good single and multi-pitch routes at a variety of grades. Watch out for loose rock on less travelled routes. The guide for this area is out of print (South Eastern Grampians: A rock climbing guide, Chris Baxter/VCC 1991) and it may be hard to get a copy of it. A 40m section towards the left end of of the cliff has been irreprably damaged by the '06 bushfires.

Approach:© (willmonks)

From Halls Gap, head 10km south along the Halls Gap - Dunkeld road. When you come to the Borrough Huts campground (on your left) there is a dirt road heading off on the right (un-signposted). This is the Redmans Road. Follow it for 3.7km to a where a gated track (the Dials track) heads off right. Walk south along it for 2.5km/30min until you reach the highpoint of the track, where a large cairn appears on the right. A fairly distinct logging track heads right in to the bush - follow this for 10min up the spur (some cairns) to the left end of the cliff.

1.5.1.10. The Fifth Dial 6 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.1.11. The Sixth Dial 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.1.12. The Battlements 8 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

1.5.2. Redmans Bluff 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.595424, -37.248037

1.5.2.1. Northern Cliff 46 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad, Aid and Sport
Description:

The central section of this cliff has some great climbs with the quality tapering off on either side. The pundits of the early seventies played down the significance of the routes put up here by Roland Pauligk,Pete Canning and friends which says more about the personalities involved than the climbs.

Approach:

The track reaches the cliff almost at the right-hand end, between 'Free to Air' and 'Dog Breath' so the climbs are listed from right-to-left.

There is some confusion about the routes in the vicinity of where the track hits the cliff but these are mostly pretty scrappy so it's best to just keep going left to the first good climbs.

1.5.2.2. Middle Cliff 28 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.5.2.3. Southern Cliff 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.2.4. Little Redman 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.2.5. Upper Summit Cliff 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.2.6. The Planetarium 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

1.5.3. Bovine Cliff 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

A compact cliff approx 200m long and 40m high with generally good rock and lines. It deserves to be more popular as a middle grade destination, altho' Roland Pauligk's typically very solid gradings may have scared some people off in the past. I have tried to adjust the grades on the routes I have I done to make them more reasonable. This is a good Spring and Autumn cliff as it faces North but is high enough not to get too hot. [Intro and descriptions entered by Philip Armstrong]

Approach:© (willmonks)

4.7km along the 'Mt William' Summit road from the Halls Gap-Dunkeld road is an old logging track on the L. Park here. Follow the now overgrown track taking LH branches where there is any option. The track swings L and heads West for about a km. There is an old log loading ramp around here and you need to head uphill from it about 250m to the cliff. It is actually easier to find the cliff than this description might lead you to believe. Descent is made easily by the gullies at either end.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Torero

About 30m R of the LH end of the cliff is an initialled crack through an overhang. Strenuous hauling gets you through this and up the line above.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Peter Canning, 1983

16Trad 30m
2 Ponderosa

7m R of 'Torero', initailled. Slabby wall then corner.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Peter Canning, 1983

14Trad 40m
3 ** Beast of Burden

Looks very good and bloody hard for the grade. Could be worth more stars [and a higher grade] if anyone ever repeats it and comments on the quality and difficulty. Up wall 3m R of 'Ponderosa' to diagonal crack. Up crack to ledge. Step R and up wall over loose blocks. Up crack in summit block.

FA: Roland Pauligk, 1986

19Trad 30m
4 Humpy

Initialled. Climb jagged crack 5m R of BB then up R veering flake.

FA: Peter Canning, Travis Canning, Scott Simpson, 1983

10Trad 30m
5 * Shaky Flake

Nice crack route with nothing really shaky on it. Crack in black wall 17m R of 'Humpy' through overhangs to final wide steep crack [BD4 useful] which is more reasonable than it looks.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Peter Canning, 1983

17Trad 40m
6 ** Puppet

Sustained and varied, really very good. Initalled crack 2m R of SF. Up crack to overhang then up shallow V corner in orange wall to overhang. Turn overhang on R then up wall and blocks.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Peter Canning, Ann Pauligk, 1983

14Trad 30m
7 Hexe

Climb initialled corner 30m R of 'Puppet' then continue up crack. A bit dirty and fiddly to protect at the top.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Ann Pauligk, 1983

14Trad 40m
8 Haps II

Initialled juggy wall 2m R of Hexe. Step R, move up, step back L then up crack.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Ann Pauligk, 1983

13Trad 40m
9 Wimps' Picnic

OK shorter route. Initialled corner in arete 10m R of HII to orange wall. Up wall and step L onto block. Pass overhang on L. Veer up R over large block to ledge. Abseil from tree.

FA: Peter Canning, James McIntosh, Martin Tatton, 1989

16Trad 20m
10 The Cliff That Was Naughty

Up to R facing corner 1m R of WP. Step R and take crack though roof. Up

FA: James Falla, John [UK], 1989

21Trad 35m
11 See My Solicitor

Cracks 3m R of CTWN

FA: Simon Mentz, Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1989

22Trad 35m
12 Moo

Another short one. Initialled. Swing up R from 1m R of SMS, then up veering L to thin crack below roof. Up to juggy break then hand traverse R to ledge. Abseil from tree.

FA: James McIntosh, Martin Tatton, 1989

19Trad 15m
13 * Pilgrim II

Good looking crack. Again it might be harder and better than indicated but no one seems to have repeated it. Initialled. Up crack 2m R of Moo to ledge. Up L hand diagonal crack then jugs.

FA: Roland Pauligk, 1986

19Trad 30m
14 ** Flasher

Sustained, technical and varied. Good route. Care is needed with the rock as this buttress copped a blast in the 2006 bushfires. Initalled with a 'P' for some reason. Crack in orange wall 20m R of 'Pilgrim' II then arete, then veer R to committing moves up middle of buttress..

FA: Peter Canning, Ann Pauligk, Roland Pauligk, 1983

16Trad 35m
15 * Grin and Bare It

Unfortunately the bushfires have left the start [which was always a bit thin, loose and poorly protected] dangerously friable. Which is a pity as it is otherwise a very nice climb up a good line. Cairned and marked line 6m R of 'Flasher'. Up wall to shallow corner. Up V crack then R of arete and up twin cracks. Finish over blocks.

FA: Peter Canning, Roland Pauligk, 1983

16 RTrad 36m
16 Swanee

The large chimney cleft about 30m L of the RH end of the cliff. This whole area is fire affected and unstable looking

FA: Travis Canning, Scott Simpson, 1983

8Trad 25m

1.5.4. Mt William 114 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.582231, -37.283882

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Retreat in the heat / the story of 2 wise men

(and the story of one not so wise man and woman). Good climbing - just don't do it on a superhot day!

Start: Starts about 30m right (facing the cliff) of "Rainmaker" at small ledge at base of cliff. There is a tree here which can provide some relief from the sun if really hot.

  1. 25m (15) Steeper and better than expected - up the corner, moving right on side pulls. Take a few very small (0.2 BD) cams to protect the crux moves. Up corner moving left at small roof / big block. Through crack moving right on ledge and belay on 1m high pillar/ledge just above small tree/bush at horizontal break (takes small-med cams).

  2. 45m (15) Traverse left into corner. Up (a few #4 cams are handy) corner until it eases. Scramble easily on loose ground to ledge below last orange wall and corner.

  3. 40m (6) This could be bettered by heading up the orange wall or corner somewhere. We just wanted to get off ASAP as we were melting in the sun on a 39 degree day! Up to ledge at base of wall. Traverse easily right (about 15m) to big cool chimney. Up to top.

FA: Josef Goding (P1 & 3), Naomi Gibbs (P2), 2008

15Trad 110m
1.5.4.1. Liomin Castle 39 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

Actually accessed from the Halls Gap - Dunkeld Rd from a few kms south of the 'Mt William' Rd...but grouped in with the Mt WIlliam Rd crags for now.

1.5.4.2. The Mt William Road Cliff 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.4.3. Lower Cliff 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (armstp)

An extensive but fairly none descript cliff with few continuous lines. The best sections are found at both the R hand and L hand ends of the cliff. The RH is close to the track and car park. Unfortunately the walk to the LH end is a bit of a nightmare. Even though it is flat and probably no more than a kilometer the rough ground and thick low bushes make it very unpleasant country to traverse taking a good hour or more to get to the 'Monkey Business' area. This is a pity because there are more good routes still to be done down this end.

Approach:© (armstp)

From the 'Mt William' turntable follow the Bomjinna Track. This climbs slightly but then descends through the lower cliff line arriving at the RH end of the cliff in about 5 minutes. The climbs are described from R to L as you reach them from the track. Descent is something of a problem for any route from 'Just a Dream' Lward. It is preferable to find some sturdy trees and abseil. Otherwise you have to find your way R ward along the top of the cliff to find the track. This is more difficult and unpleasant than you might expect.

1.5.4.4. Upper Cliff 46 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (armstp)

The highest peak in the 'Grampians' is not a winter destination. A long cliff line in a striking location but few strong lines. There are however a number of good buttresses with unxepectedly good holds and gear turning up on many of the faces. A number of good climbs are available [if you can locate them!]. The climbs around 'Conqueror' and the Major Mitchell buttress are easy to find and are the best starting points for visiting the cliff. A lot of the original routes were very undergraded. This probably happened in the late 60s when the grades were translated from the old [badly applied] English system to the Ewbank system of grading without any one actually repeating the routes to see what grades they really were. 'Mt William' is very much a summer cliff and is often much cooler than other cliffs even though it faces North.

Approach:© (armstp)

From the Halls Gap/Dunkeld road take the Mt William road to the carpark at the locked summit road gate. The RH end of the upper cliff is visible above the carpark. Walk up the summit road to the 4th and last zig zag corner. Depending where you want to go there are now two options. *OPTION ONE - this is best for the climbs around Conqueror and from there Rward to Order of the White Elephant. From the 4th zig zag continue along the road for 15m. On your L is a scree slope get up onto this and find a cairned route. This route initially keeps about 50m away from the cliff edge, after the first 100m it moves into quite clear and easy terrain and hits the cliff edge in little more than 5 minutes about 20m short of the abseil chains above Marie. These abseil chains are over the cliff edge and it is advisable to connect in with a sling before setting up the abseil. 2x50m ropes required [45m abseil]. Gear up at the top and abb down to climb. *OPTION 2 - this covers the area from the Major Mitchell Buttress Rwards and back L as far as Lower Orders. For these climbs head out on a faint track from the last zig zag to the cliff edge 40m away. If you walk R [facing out] along the cliff edge for 30m you will arrive at a descent gully. There are 2 abseil bolts a few meters down in the gully. A single 50m rope will get you down from here [25m abseil - If preferred this gully can be scrambled down and back up with some difficulty]. From the foot of this gully the Major Mitchell buttress is about 20m R. Or you can pick your way L from here on a rapidly improving pad to get to the area around Conqueror.

1.5.4.5. The First Wannon Wall 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.4.6. The Devils Towers 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.4.7. Bomjinna Falls 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad

1.5.5. North-West Serra Range 208 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.496457, -37.315101

Description:© (aca_admin)

All the areas around Castle Creek (west side of the Serra Range near Twin Peak / Mt Frederick)

Approach:© (aca_admin)

Accessed along the Henham Track. See area map for general region and each area for it's own access. Best camping is found at Jimmy's creek - about 27km south of Halls Gap on the 'Grampians' Tourist Road.

1.5.5.1. The Back of Beyond 12 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.5.2. Solar Ridge 16 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (jgoding)

short but apparently has some good potential for more new routes

Approach:© (jgoding)

GR 330 710 - 20min walk in.

1.5.5.3. Green Gap Pinnacle 12 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles
Description:© (jgoding)

The hidden motherload for the new router. Remote, big, good rock, a pinnacle and some arapelean quality rock - what more could you ask for?

Approach:© (jgoding)

GR 327 699. The walk in takes between 40mins and 1 hr 15mins depending on how much stuff you are carrying and how fit you are!

1.5.5.4. Burnt Shirt Buttress 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.5.5. Seclusion Wall 13 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.5.6. Gallery Creek 37 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.5.7. Eldorado 48 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (jgoding)

Small group of buttresses between 'Green Gap Pinnacle' And 'Dreamtime' Wall

Approach:© (jgoding)

GR 320 696

1.5.5.8. Dreamtime Wall 67 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 142.489825, -37.313900

Description:© (jgoding)

This cliff has seen some action many years ago and has only very recently (Jan 2009) been visited with an eye for the more modern style of climbing - i.e. aretes, slabs and face climbing that has no natural protection. The first series of buttresses are - while small - very compact rock and offer excellent climbing, and the further walls offer more length and flavor. Enjoy

Approach:© (jgoding)

The Henham track is rocky and rough. Many a car has bottomed out because the driver was fanging it too hard, so take it slow and watch out for rocks!

The car park is 5.6km north of the junction between the Serra Road and Henham track (S37 20.870 E142 29.052). The car park is: S37 18.345 E142 28.881

The cliff can be found in the Serra Range, around 10km south of Mt Rosea. Best access is (from Halls Gap) head south for 24.8km then turn right onto the Serra Track. Follow Serra Track for 3.9km up and over the range, down the other side and just as it starts to flatten out turn right onto the Henham track. Proceed roughly north for 4.9km, then turn right at a sandy turn. Continue another 800m to where a locked gate appears on the right, park here.

Walk south on the overgrown 4WD track for approx 600m (5mins) where you hit a low point / dry creek bed. Cross this and find the yellow markers heading East for approx 800m (20mins) until you reach the far right end of the cliff (Death Threat Buttress). From here it's about 20mins (a little longer with a heavy pack on) to get up to 'Tjuringa' Buttress and the walking is very steep, rough and loose (lots of scree).

Take a lot of care as there are lots of very big loose boulders that could cause some nasty injuries!

There are now a fair few rap stations (as noted in the route descriptions) however some routes are still walk offs which can take a while.

All routes are described left to right, but you hit the cliff at the far right end, so start at the back and work forward. (JOE HOW ABOUT RE-ORDERING THE ROUTES TO GO RIGHT TO LEFT?!)

1.5.6. Wannon Creek Area 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.5.6.1. Mt Frederick 11 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.5.6.2. Mt Lang 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.6.3. The Great Divide 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

1.5.7. Teddy Bear Rocks 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Teddy Bears' Picnic 14Trad 45m
2 Grin and Bear It 21Trad 35m
3 Ursa Minor 8Trad 35m
4 Teddy Boys 13Trad 20m
5 Philippa's Libido 11Trad 28m
6 Gut Reaction 11Trad 26m

1.5.8. Yarruam Gap 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.461862, -37.466664

1.5.8.1. Echo Creek Wall 5 routes in Area
Summary:

1.5.9. Mirranatwa Gap 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.454171, -37.428513

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Last Unicorn 6Trad 240m

1.5.10. Cassidys Gap 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
1.5.10.1. Nankeen Wall 10 routes in Area
Summary:
1.5.10.2. Easy Hill 6 routes in Area
Summary:

1.5.11. Mt Abrupt 65 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Aid

Long/Lat: 142.354634, -37.597285

Description:© (jgoding)

Big adventure territory.

Approach:© (jgoding)

About 10km north of Dunkeld.

1.5.11.1. Solent Cliff 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.11.2. The Cheesecake 26 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

The Cheesecake is the lower, first line of cliffs at the Southern end of Mt Abrupt. The name becomes obvious when you see the (somewhat chossy) cheesecake-like layers on the East facing walls. Moss and lichen is a problem on many routes, but apart from a few wide horrors, the climbing is quite good.

Approach:

Park at the start of the old tourist trail, at a small pullout / gate about 1km before the road passes the main cliff. Walk up the old tourist trail until you reach the far RH end of the Cheesecake (gets increasingly hard to follow, but isn't too bad). "Flay" is the obvious leaning crack on the RHS of the small caves.

1.5.11.3. Southern Cliff 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.11.4. Middle Cliff 13 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

The Middle Cliff of Mt Abrupt has a handful of major middle grade adventure climbs up strong lines. These routes deserve to be more popular, and would be on a cliff like Mt Rosea, but the trackless, steep and scrubby approach is likely to ensure that this is never the case.

Approach:

The Middle cliff is the steep, wall with strong lines about a km R of the Power Dive buttress. Park below the cliff [possibly where the walking track starts] and head up through thick scrub and awkward rock steps to the foot of the cliff. It is possible [but longer] to take the summit walking track and then descend down the gully at the RH end of the Middle Cliff coming out around the foot of Fuschia. Allow 1 to 1 1/2 hours for this approach.

1.5.11.5. Northern Cliff 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
1.5.11.6. Bernard's Boulders 15 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.351612, -37.606110

Description:

This area of boulders is the scattered rock located on the old walking track below the cheesecake crag area. A mix of good/bad/horrid/terrific rock. Great for an afternoon climbing before heading to the Royal Mail for a pint or 5.

Approach:

5 minutes from Dunkeld. Park at gate just after the 5km to Dunkeld sign on the Dunkeld side of the highway. Walk in, follow trail. First boulder is 100m from gate. The rest is up the old Abrupt hiking trail, most have been done, not logged.

History:

Previous bouldering might have occured here many moons ago, current resurgence of logging and grading has been by James Stephens, Louis Godsell and Goshen Watts.

1.5.11.7. Trackside Boulders 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.360501, -37.589405

Description:

Various scattered boulders along the walking trail to the summit of Mt Abrupt.

Approach:

Various approach times. Park at the walking trail starting point, walk along trail until you stumble upon differing arrays of boulders.

History:

???

1.5.12. The Piccaninny 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.335138, -37.620720

Description:

A short distance from the town of Dunkeld is a smaller hill named the Piccaninny wedged between Mt Abrupt and Mt Sturgeon which tower above. A handful of boulders a spread around the top section of this area.

Approach:

Follow Picaninny tourist track to summit, boulders are spread throughout here. Approx 20-30 minutes walk on slightly up hill terrain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Frisbee Flop

Start on the large bloc in the seam, find small feet, and throw or use small crimps to gain large jugs and literally flop (mantle) over to the small ledge. Potential to extend from lower start.

FA: J Stephens, 2014

V3Boulder
2 * Scissor Kick

Same start as "Frisbee Flop", though head left up the seam and up slopers and crimps to the higest point of the boulder, mantle can be trickier than first thought!

FA: J Stephens, 2014

V5Boulder

1.5.13. Mt Sturgeon 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.321162, -37.631066

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Pressing Engagement 16Trad 50m

1.5.14. Gate of the North Wind 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
1.5.14.1. Shark Skin Buttress 4 routes in Area
Summary:
1.5.14.2. Main Wall 8 routes in Area
Summary:
1.5.14.3. Lower Wall 3 routes in Area
Summary:

1.6. Victoria Range 2,127 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.268039, -37.345273

Access Issues:

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

1.6.1. Eureka Area 138 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 142.313457, -37.216658

Description:© (nmonteith)

Far northern end of the 'Victoria' Ranges. Has a collection of the most brilliant mid-twenties climbs in the country.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

All of the crags lie above the old vehicle track to Jananginj Jawi (Emu's Foot). This track is now permanently closed to vehicles making for substantially longer approaches. When Matthew's Track (seasonal 4WD) is open, it can be used until below the chosen cliff, shortening the length of the walk. The Jananginj Jawi track is gained from Red Rock Road about 5km north of Muline Creek. Matthew's Track is a further 1 km north.

1.6.1.1. Hidden Buttress 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This 45m high buttress is located up and right of The Lost World, directly behind a nice steep orange face (kind of looks like it should be part of that cliff from the road until you start walking up to it and realise it's separated). Climbing potential here is sadly limited however - but perhaps a little more development is available.

Approach:

Walk up to The Lost World and rather than cutting left at the slab keep going up and right up the gulley to the detatched buttress.

Descent Notes:

Walk off the back and down the gulley.

History:

Discovered by Jurgen Bollenger while waiting for Anthony Pattison on the way down after a great day at Lost World - we thought it was a free-standing pillar of about twice the height. Oh well.

1.6.1.2. Eureka Wall 20 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.277062, -37.194314

Description:© (nmonteith)

Steve Monks had a verrrry good month in February 1991.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Go about 3 km along Jananginj Jawi track to the highest point in the road and follow a rough, cairned track up the hillside.

35 minute walk up the hill.

It's worth going a further 200 metres(approx.) east along the road from the parking area to get a view of the cliff.

1.6.1.3. Eureka Towers 4 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:© (nmonteith)

Approach as for 'Eureka Wall' and continue uphill for a further 10 minutes on a rough pad.

routes are desribed from right-to-left.

1.6.1.4. Clean Cut Walls 19 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

It has loads of stainless steel and named after clean cut phil. What more could you ask for ?

Description:

Two prominent orange tiers lower and left of Eureka Walls.

Approach:

Walk in as per Eureka. Before Eureka turn left at obvious orange walls. Welcome to clean cuts.

1.6.1.5. The Red Sail 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A stunning orange pillar east of and below "Eureka Wall" and clearly visible from the Jananginj Jawi track. A vague animal pad leads up to the cliff.

1.6.1.6. Worthless Wall 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

The name appears apt. There are vast quantities of un-appealing rock with one or two better bits poking out.

Approach:© (kieranl)

This crag lies above the junction of Syphon Road and Matthew Track. It used to be approached along a 4WD track starting 75 metres along Matthew Track from this junction. This track no longer exists. Instead, from the gate on Matthew Track walk south-west into the bush toward the most reasonable-looking piece of rock for about 30 minutes. Fragments of the old track may be encountered en-route.

1.6.1.7. Weirs Creek 29 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.294552, -37.208216

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some good moderate sport and easy trad

Description:© (kieranl)

Weirs Creek is the main drainage east of Emus' Foot. The lowest crag on 'Weirs Creek' looks like a pile of choss. However, there are some good things tucked away. The "Disparate Housewives Wall" offers excellent moderate sport-climbing and there are some other things scattered about and some other potential.

The bottom of "Disparate Housewives Wall" seeps heavily for a long time after rain so be prepared to bail water from holds during spring. This wall faces west and comes into the sun about 1 PM (Daylight-saving time). An early start is advised in summer.

The creek water is safe to drink and on a warm day is very nice just before the 10 minutes uphill back to the car. To help keep it that way please take care with toileting. A trowel is in place at the base of the cliff to help bury faeces. Please descend the track a little and then go across the hillside away from the creek to do your business. Dig a good hole.

Also, please carry out any used toilet or tissue paper that doesn't require burial. Take some plastic bags to carry the used paper.

Approach:

Follow the track for 4km to below Jananginj Jawi and then the continuation east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.

1.6.1.8. Jananginj Jawi 10 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Access Issues:

The crag contains a major indigenous art site and climbing should not take place on any of the routes near the art site. 'Footless Emu' is probably far enough from the art-site to be climbed but it is strongly suggested that chalk not be used.

Approach:

Follow the Jananginj Jawi track for 4 km and walk up to the huge red overhangs of the art site.

1.6.1.9. Gondwanaland 19 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.285305, -37.198703

Description:© (nmonteith)

This shady large face has some very unique and sustained routes up remarkable grey rock in a similar, but easier style to nearby 'Eureka Wall'. Many of the routes feel like extended gritstone classics (but with better protection!).

Bring a spare rope for descent off the longer routes. A full trad rack should be carried, including some larger cams. Don't forget the botl plates!

The cliff comes into the shade quite early in the morning, and stays that way for the rest of the day. Perfect in summer, miserable and wet in winter.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Follow the Jananginj Jawi track for 4 km and go uphill to caged Aboriginal art site of Jananginj Jawi. Walk right along base of cliff for a few 100m until it is possible to head upwards. Follow vague track up and rightish to arrive at east facing large orange/grey wall. Walking time 20-30 minutes.

1.6.1.10. The Lost World 33 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Sport
Approach:© (nmonteith)

Follow Jananginj Jawi track for 2km then follow cairned walking track until cairns run out then head left over the black slabs towards the tiered orange wall

1.6.2. Mt Fox Area 140 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.270616, -37.205351

1.6.2.1. Mount Cactus 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

A remote crag high on the range featuring spectacular views. Expect two hours of uphill scrub-bashing. Any sense of isolation and despair engendered by the walk will be enhanced by the cliff and its existing climbs. The experience could be further intensified by venturing in during summer.

Approach:

Park on Red Rock Road just south of Muline Creek, 1 kilometre north of the Mt Fox turnoff, next to a locked barrier on a track heading east. Follow this track for 300 metres to a T-junction, turn left and, after 200 metres, turn onto a vague track to the right. This heads north-east and soon peters out on the southern slopes of the next creek north of Muline Creek. The idea now is to follow the righ-hand side of this creek valley to the crest of the ridge. At this point Mount Cactus will be on your right and you will be amazed at the aptness of the name. Descend from the summit down overlapping slabs leading to the right-hand end of the crag. GR 132816

1.6.2.2. Generation Gap 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

The big, grey, north-facing wall high in the Muline Creek Valley is serious cliff offering thin, poorly protected wall climbing on excellent rock. For serious callers only.

Originally called 'Generation Gap' by the first people to climb on the cliff but, unaware of this, a later next party called it 'Cervantes Wall', a much more suitable name for this fine cliff.

The cliff is often running with water so have a good look from the road before walking in.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach from the left end of Muline Cave via a faint pad.

Descend by a 50 metre abseil down "Baltic City", leaving a very long sling, or down the cleft left of "Dracula's Blood"

1.6.2.3. Wall Of The West Wind 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.266652, -37.212797

Description:© (jgoding)

This beautiful and compact little wall has an attractive outlook. It is located approx 200m west (down and right) of 'Emu Rock', and immediatly left of the descent gully for that cliff. The wall is distinguished by a guano stained cave in the middle of the wall. The two routes go either side of the cave.

Approach:© (jgoding)

124804, 612880

1.6.2.4. Muline Creek 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Walls and crags on the right when walking up to 'Muline Crag'. Walk across through scrub and boulders.

1.6.2.5. Muline Crag 38 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 142.269144, -37.209606

Description:© (nmonteith)

If you can climb grade 30 this cliff is the mecca of all meccas. One of the 'Big 4' sport crags of 'Victoria'. An amazing impressive cave of mindblowing features.

This is also one of the best "four season" crags in the 'Grampians', for the same reasons as 'Sandinista' Wall:

  • in winter the sun is low in the sky and stays in the north, reaching in under the big overhangs to warm up frosty belayers;

  • in summer the sun is high in the sky and both the routes and the base spend most of the day in shade;

  • the very steep headwall keeps off the rain.

Naturally, if its cloudy and wintery this crag is miserably cold, but it should at least be dry (and hey, no other crag in 'Victarctica' will be any warmer). Also, the routes have enough slopers that temps in the 30s will be a problem even if you are climbing in the shade (on days like this it's probably better to try 'The Tower' just down the road).

A quick history lesson from Simon Mentz:

"Steve Hamilton dragged me and a few others into the cliff many years before it started being developed. I think he had discovered the place with Baxter and came back raving. I recall him telling me about this line that looked like three Sandinista's stacked on top of each other. I went in there expecting to climb mega-routes routes ground-up. Although the cliff was impressive, I was actually disappointed. Most of the cliff looked ridiculously hard. I remember saying to Steve, 'Where is the triple 'Sandinista' line?' 'In fact, show me one line that we can actually start climbing?' In the end I began rap-bolting the steep line of what is now 'Krankandangle'. I faffed around for ages getting in position, then my hand drill kept getting stuck, and finally when I got a bolt in place... I wasn't happy with it. We eventually walked out and never bothered to return. It wasn't until years later that HB mentioned this amazing cliff that he and Noddy had visited and their suprise at seeing a single bolt halfway up one of the lines, that it all clicked. Malcolm had established a few other routes and asked me whether I still planned to do that particular route. 'Yeah, of course!' (What a crock - I had completely forgotten about it). I took a power drill next time I visited the place and finished bolting the line (replacing my old dud bolt). The ascent was a formality, although I recall Sylvia finding the crux moves a bit reachy and falling off a few times. So there you go... another absolutely brilliant cliff (along with the Gallery) that I visited prior to their development and which I failed to see the potential of!"

Bear in mind that no rebolting has yet occurred at this crag so all bolts are the originals, and some are starting to show their age. There's quite a few spinning hangers, and the hangerless carrot bolts vary from "worrisome" to "completely shit". (Take bolt brackets). Perhaps the greatest concern is that the fixed hanger/bolt combos used are mismatched metal types and suffering from galvanic corrosion as a result, which can be particularly dangerous because of the tendency for the damage to be localised around the metal/metal interfaces, i.e. largely out of sight.

The best warm up is the bouldering around the base of 'Desert Rose' - neither of the "easy" routes are good options if you're still cold and haven't been on them before.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Drive north for a kilometre (approx) from the Mt Fox carpark on Red Rock Rd until you hit the obvious creek crossing (Muline Creek). 50m south of Muline Creek is a carpark on the east side of the road (which, as of Oct 2008, has a big tree fallen across it) - park here. Walk up old fireroad for 100m to T-intersection. Walk right (south) for 50m to rock cairn marking track into Muline. The well worn track is pretty flat at first, but gets progressively steeper. The track is easy to follow and the walk takes about 25 minutes. The track meets the cliff at After Midnight.

The crag is marked "kid friendly" because the base of the cliff is generally ok for kids to hang out, especially around the base of 'Eye of the Tiger', and 'Desert Rose' (but beware the 6m drop-off separating these areas, just left of Pocket Full of Dreams). However, the walk in will tax little legs (or the adult carrying them!).

1.6.2.6. Emu Rock 17 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.268298, -37.211790

Description:© (jgoding)

Fantastic looking west facing vertical wall.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Above 'Muline Crag'. Best aproached from Muline, and just keep heading up the left end of the crag, scramble up an easy corner and then hack through about 10mins of hakia (prickly!!!)

Park your car about 200m south of Muline Creek on Red Rock Road near a small clearing. Head east on old 4WD track for 5mins to road. Turn right, then on your left after about 50-100m is a cairned well established track. Follow this for around 20mins until you reach 'Muline Crag'. Waltz up the left end and scramble left up a corner, then head south east for about 10 minutes through prickly scrub which is steep in places until you reach the cliff.

Descent: there are 3 abseil options. 1) 35m. ~10m left of the top of 'Whipping Boy' is a large bollard with slings and a ring on it. 2) 55m marked on cliff topo. 3) 45m, slings on bollard approx 3m right and down from 'Patagonia' P2 belay. Apparently you can walk off - this would be epic!

1.6.2.7. Hollywood Bowl 25 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.268096, -37.214765

1.6.2.8. Hollywood Valley 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

There are a few short routes on the boulders in the valley below 'Hollywood Bowl'.

1.6.2.9. Loose Rock - Candy Outcrop 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:© (kieranl)

Walk up past Cub Wall to a small triple buttress higher on the spur. Some of the routes are initialled.

GR 122801

1.6.2.10. Club Wall 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Nice but limited little cliff behind Mt Fox.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Cliff faces north-east and is approached by walking up to just below Mt Fox, sidling left around a steep yellow outcrop and then going up and right to this wall.

1.6.2.11. Mt Fox Track 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.2.12. Mt Fox 29 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.264046, -37.215430

1.6.2.13. Corner Crag 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

1.6.3. Red Rock Area 291 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.267982, -37.227811

Access Issues:

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

1.6.3.1. Band Of Gypsies 37 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A pleasant group of sunny walls, pinnacles and terraces lining the gully immediately north of Red Rock Pinnacles.

Great in cool, sunny weather, not so if it's warm.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

To climb at the lower end of Band of Gypsies, wander

across to the end of the vehicle track, cross the creek,

walk up to the cliff line and follow it uphill to the first

climbs.

For the upper section, follow a pad across to the Cave Boulder, which is directly in front of "Dutch Courage".

Descent

For the lower walls walk off the west or the east ends via

the chasm gully. There are plenty of abseil options.

Beyond the chasm the best option is to abseil, either

from the chains and slings indicated or from one of

many bollards. (BYO slings). The best scramble descent

is via narrow rib at the top (east) end of the main crags.

This rib is in a gully just i from the north-east toe of the

buttress.

1.6.3.2. Red Rock Pinnacle 60 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.261998, -37.221582

Description:© (nmonteith)

This complex area has emerged from obscurity and now contains a wealth of quality sport, semi-sport and trad routes on some of the best rock in 'Victoria'. With easy access and a good variety of grades this crag is destined for popularity. The

three dimensional nature of the area means you can climb in the shade all day long or be protected from light rain. The big boulder caves also offer great exploration and have the habit of eating loose shoes or �biners. Routes have a mixture of old

school hangerless machine bolts and newer ringbolts and fixed hangers. A basic trad rack is required on some of these climbs.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

12 minutes mostly flat walk.

Park on Red Rock Road immediately opposite the large pinnacle with distinctive steep orange west face about 1km south of Mt Fox carpark (refer to 'Grampians' Select guide by Tempest/Mentz). Hop over the fence and stroll across the paddocks and enter some light scrub (hopefully spotting the local emus and grey kangaroos). The first big boulder

with a couple of rusty hangers on the west face is Pellant Pinnacle.

Some of this information comes from Micheal Hampton�s forthcoming 'Victoria' Ranges guidebook. Buy it in a store - some time this decade - perhaps.

1.6.3.3. Pellant Pinnacle 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.3.4. Gallery No. 1 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

This was the original cliff called "The Gallery" in this area but, despite much easier access than its namesake, this one has never caught on. The name has been adjusted to prevent confusion.

A few hundred metres up the north side of Red Rock Creek from Red Rock Road is a collection of chossy pinnacles. The highest and most easterly pinnacle has a long, overhanging north wall.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach by walking up the north side of the creek, around the east side of the pinnacles and up the gully behind.

GR 117793

1.6.3.5. The Far Pavilion 33 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.271858, -37.217942

1.6.3.6. Crag X 77 routes in Crag
Summary:
Boulder, Trad and Unknown
Description:© (nmonteith)

Crag X is a north-facing crag on the south side of Red Rock Creek with a distinctive orange wall streaked with black and white.

'Queensland' Cliff is located closer to the road but higher than Crag X and has two salient left-leaning diagonals.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park 200 metres south of the bridge over Red Rock Creek on Red Rock Road. Crag X is the obvious cliff on the south side of the Red Rock Creek Valley. Croos the paddocks and head up the valley about 100-200 metres above the creek, just below the first tier of rocky outcrops.

1.6.3.7. Picasso Block 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Aid
Description:© (kieranl)

A west-facing crag about 10 minutes walk due east of Crag X. It is distinguished by an overhanging south wall.

1.6.3.8. Queensland Cliff 2 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.3.9. Eagle Rock 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.259141, -37.231646

Description:© (nmonteith)

Limited area with one excellent climb.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

The crag is on the south side of the hill immediately south of Red Rock Creek and overlooks the road. Take the first turn-off south of Red Rock Creek (0.9 km north of the junction with Billywing Rd) and park at a gravel quarry.

1.6.3.10. Scoop Rocks 23 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A complex area of caves and buttresses hidden from the road in behind 'Eagle Rock'. The best quality routes are the furthest away, up on the aptly named Prow. You can always find something shady and climbable in summer around here. In winter it can be a biting wind tunnel.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive north along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn left at a fork in the track and drive across two large gravel pits to the far eastern side (2WDs might have problems on the big ditches!). Find a very vague cairned or tape marked track on the west edge of this gravel pit. Follow this track across flat ground for 10 minutes until you hit a large gully with small rock buttresses on the far side. Drop down and across this swampy gully and up to the rock buttress on the far side. Walk along the bottom of these small crags leftwards and steeply uphill for another 10 minutes to arrive at 'Poison Bait' cave. You'll pass several impressive but mostly blank walls on the way along. To get up to the main Prow you will need to scramble/solo up the very juggy wall just right of 'Poison Bait' cave. Beginners might need a rope for this.

1.6.3.11. Sherpa Rocks 6 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A pleasant Arapilsian gully spot for some shady cranking on a hot day. 'Sherpa Rocks' are found just to the south of the main 'Scoop Rocks' outcrops.

Descent

A bolted abseil point is located above 'Invalid Stout'. To get off routes E of 'Woodys' either downclimb juggy wall L of 'Woodys' or rap from suitable rock bollard.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Where the vague track to 'Scoop Rocks' hits the first rock outcrops just over the creek go up the R (S) side of the 'Scoop' Rock ridgeline, passing the odd cairn, to the first major outcrop that stands apart from the ridgeline, about opposite the Crater. It has two narrow gullies (it may be easier to simply walk straight up the hill, from the clearing after crossing the creek).

1.6.3.12. Valley Crag 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 124796

Park at the bend in the road about 200 metres south of Red Rock Creek and walk east across the paddocks. Head up the north branch of the creek which is reached about a kilometre from the road. The cliff is due north of 'Canyon Crag'.

It may be quicker to walk over the saddle from Pellant Pinnacles and then up the creek.

1.6.3.13. Canyon Crag 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A great little cliff for the grade 17 climber. A very compact orange and grey wall on the south bank of the north-east branch of Red Rock Creek.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 127791

Park at the bend in the road about 200 metres south of Red Rock Creek and walk east across the paddocks. Head up the north-east branch of the creek which goes off just before the large orange cliff on the right is reached (Crag X).

1.6.3.14. The Grandstand 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Aid
Description:© (kieranl)

A yellow west-facing cliff at the head of Red Rock Creek.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 128793

Park at the bend in the road about 200 metres south of Red Rock Creek and walk east across the paddocks. Head up the north-east branch of the creek which goes off just before the large orange cliff on the right is reached (Crag X). Continue up rock slabs to the crag. Treacherous in the wet and tedious at any time.

1.6.3.15. The Lost Pavilion 9 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.3.16. Jungle Gym 19 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

Nice little crag sitting above the junction of Red Rock Road and Emu Foot Track.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park on Red Rock Road below the west-facing wall and walk up.

GR 120838

1.6.4. Buandik Area 259 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.311390, -37.250568

1.6.4.1. Little Hands Cave 6 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Bolts and steep action packed routes

Access Issues:

To get to the Cave park at Manja Shelter on the Harrop Track, Walk around 1km then scurry up track to very steep and Hidden wall. Fingers Becomes Thumbs is on seperate cliff, behind LHC.

1.6.4.2. The Buandik Boulder 4 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.3. Mother Buttress 9 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.6.4.4. The Studio 8 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A nice orange wall about 200 metres south-west of 'The Gallery'.

1.6.4.5. Buffoon Block 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.6. Pinnacle Of Achievement 4 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.7. The Lego Blocks 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.8. The Sheltered Workshop 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.9. The Gallery 29 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 142.274303, -37.243772

Description:© (jgoding)

Classy sports climbing on super steep, fantastic quality sandstone. As they say "the biggest jugs you're ever likely to fall off".

On the other hand, it has to be said that it is more popular/famous than it deserves to be, no doubt because it was one of the first sport crags in the whole state. So bear in mind that the 'Grampians' has a lot of other relatively unknown crags of comparable quality.

1.6.4.10. Quartz Block 9 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.11. Rain Wall 17 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (jgoding)

Just around the corner from the womb-like Gallery ... but a whole different experience. Very few bolts here, mainly serious trad on a big wall.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Before you enter the narrow gully just before you get to the Gallery hang a right and scramble down a loose gully, then follow a rough track left around the base of the cliff until you see the large clean face (about 70m high).

1.6.4.12. Cultivation Crag 4 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.13. Hut Creek Track 11 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.6.4.14. Millennium Caves 33 routes in Crag
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.294784, -37.242594

Description:© (willmonks)

A great find - the then bumblies Julian and Simon managed to bolt and, eventually, send some classic steep sport routes.

Be aware that most routes at this crag rely on one bolt keeping you off the deck, even when you're well up the pitch. If a bolt breaks or pulls, or a biner unclips, you're toast. Bad belaying pretty much guarantees groundfall potential as well - this has already resulted in a number of big plummets, near groundfalls, and actual groundfalls even from quite high on routes (thankfully with surprisingly minimal injuries, so far).

The climbs are great - but it's your own responsibility to decide whether or not to climb them.

Mobile coverage is poor to non-existent from the car-park to and at the caves. However there is coverage from the top terrace at Pygmy Terraces near the car-park so there may also be coverage if you scramble to the top of Millenium.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Note the road from Buandik campground is closed in the cold wet months (from about Jun/Jul) to protect the road itself, and is scheduled to open at 'October' 31 each year. The Parks Vic website has a link to the 'Grampians' Road Report, which gives current road conditions and road closures. If the gate is closed keen climbers can still get there simply by walking up the road from Buandik (about 1 hr total). If the gate is open, drive up Goat Track from Buandik for about 1.5km. This crag pretty much completely occupies the top of the hill to the right (south) as Goat Track reaches it's high point. 2WD cars can be coaxed up the hill...but a bit of clearance and/or 4WD is certainly desirable to navigate the large water bars and steep loose rocky sections (softroaders will be fine). When the road reaches a saddle at the top of the hill and starts to drop for the first time, there is a parking bay on the left (north) side of the road. The walk-in starts directly opposite, you can't really see the crag so just follow the well-formed track. The view of the crag in the first topo below is from the intersection of Goat Track and 'Victoria Range' Road - if you end up here you've gone too far, go back towards Buandik until you reach the saddle.

Goat Track is equally passable to/from the east (i.e. for suitable cars), and joins up with Syphon Rd at the eastern foot of the range. This way is probably a bit quicker if you're driving to/from Halls Gap but involves a bit more rough driving. Great views though.

The walking track is well trod and easy to follow, and initially heads away from the road but then starts veering left and contours the hillside, until you reach the 'Five Spice' cave after about 10 minutes.

1.6.4.15. Goat Track 15 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.16. Victoria Range Road 9 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.17. Billywing Buttress 25 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

The main south-west outcrop at Buandik. Billywing Bluff is the distinctive overhanging red wall at the west end. The first climbs are on the north side, just downhill from the Lego Blocks.

The climbs are described in an ant-clockwise direction.

1.6.4.18. The Tower 29 routes in Crag
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.270849, -37.240316

Description:© (nmonteith)

The perfect summer crag. Super shady steep orange wall of immaculate rock quality which get strong breezes. Like a poor mans 'Taipan Wall' it contains slopers, rounded pockets and a funny mix of bolts and trad. The nearby bouldering is also very good.

"How can a wall like this have lain dormant for so long?" That was the question on Kent's mind when he stumbled upon this area on one of his many exploratory trips with Neil whilst developing nearby 'Scoop Rocks'. Easily visible from the highway and the Gallery it only contained one climb before the development of 2003. 'The Tower' is a giant pillar of rock with a sheer orange wall on its south face. From all sides it requires roped climbing to summit and this has obviously repelled people from attempting first ascents. With the addition of rap anchors the climbs are now much easier to deal with. The rock is of the finest quality – comparable to the 'Bluffs' at 'Arapiles'. The routes are wandery affairs up proud lines and contain some natural gear. As a training ground for 'Taipan Wall' this place is hard to beat. This is not a sport crag. In the last few years there has been extensive bouldering development in the forest surrounding this wall. This is one of the best bouldering areas in the 'Victoria' Ranges and there is still tonnes of potential for new problems. There is no official guide to this area so ask around for more info. Julian Saunders and Simon Weill seem to know a lot about it.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Access: 4 hrs drive from 'Melbourne', 5 mins drive from Buandik campground, 25 minute walk. From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive N along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn R at a fork in the track. Continue 700m from the fork then turn left off the through track to a side track. This ends after 50m, park here. The walk-in is marked with red tags on trees but is not particularly easy to follow. Generally speaking, it heads East up the gully for 25mins to the crag. Within about 50m of the carpark is a jump across a deep little creek bed, then soon after the track heads R (SE) into the swampish sword grass area in the base of the gully (occasionally damp underfoot). The track stays amongst the sword grass for a surprisingly long way, to where

small (15m) rock buttresses start to appear on either side (The Crater is on the right here). Here the track starts to trend up the L side of the gully but still heads generally East, and is cairned to lead through to the base of the crag which is slightly to the left and faces South. 'Access' to this crag is quite complex and may require either a personal tour guide or a detailed map for first timers. For access information please contact Neil Monteith on nmonteith at yahoo.com or 0421 994 290. The south facing main wall is shaded all day long. In winter it is a cold miserable place which rarely dries even several days after rain. In summer it is perfect shady and cool. Down jackets get worn even on 30'C days! A small cave with some good roof boulder problems is a good shelter and is located below Iron Arms. GPS Location (-37.2405, 142.2711)

1.6.4.19. The Crater 3 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.20. Possum Rocks 9 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Boulder
1.6.4.21. The Catacombs 13 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

An area hidden away about 200m north west of the Tower. This area contains several quality walls facing in all directions. Quite a bit of new route potential exists. There are two incomplete projects in this area as well.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From Billabong Boy (Peasants Wall area) walk up hill (north) behind this route to a worthless gray juggy wall. Walk right along base of this until you can walk up a vegetated gully with an impressive 'Arapiles' style bulging wall on your left. The first route starts here. A single bolt rap anchor exists above Chimney Slot 'Thing'.

1.6.4.22. Peasant Wall 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.23. Sunny Boy Block 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.4.24. Cave of Man Hands 11 routes in Area
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

All info from Vertical Life's mini guide: www.verticallifemag.com.au/2012/04/video-cave-of-man-hands/

Approach:

To get to the Cave park at Manja Shelter on the Harrop Track, which is just south of the turn off to Buandik Campground. Follow the walking track east, after about five minutes it will start to bend south, shortly afterwards there should be a very faint track that continues east. Follow this until you hit the base of a rocky escarpment. Clamber over the escarpment and continue a further five minutes, until just below the main cliff. Now, look down and to the left, you should behold the well-hidden Cave of Man Hands (but it can be a little tricky).

History:

Discovered winter 2011, the Cave of Man Hands offers some superb new bouldering in a beautiful setting, with only a short walk in. Most problems were put up by Simon Weill, with a couple of additions by Dr Julian Saunders and Ross Taylor.

1.6.5. Mt Thackeray 56 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.6.5.1. Party Wall 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive 6.8 km south on 'Victoria' range Road from the Goat Track junction to a hair-pin bend. Descend the gully for about 50 metres the head right (facing out) to find a rock shelf. Follow this shelf to an obvious corner the left side of which is broken by a major chimney.

GR 191733 (Victoria Range 1:25000)

1.6.5.2. Taj Mahal 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Next major cliff south of Magic Mountain. Park at the saddle just south of Party wall. Walk south-east through saddle and continue horizontally (?) for 10 minutes to cairn then down descent gully.

Originally called 'Mirage' Wall but there was already one of those.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 193729

1.6.5.3. The Magic Mountain 11 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

This area looks stunning from the 'Victoria' Valley but it's a bit disappointing. Left of the steep gully that splits the crag is one of Gariwerd's loosest, most dangerous faces. This is unclimbed.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive 6.6 kilometres south along the 'Victoria' range Road. Park 200 metres north of the 'Party Wall' hairpin, at the foot of a stony rise in the track. Head off left (east) and follow the creek down until able to cut back right (south) below outcrops to the main cliff.

GR 193734 (Victoria Range 1:25000)

1.6.5.4. Crystal Palace 33 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.6.5.5. Quartz Edge 5 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A steep crag in a remote setting but less than 100 metres from the car. There are one or two options for hard new routes.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive along the 'Victoria Range' Road for 9.4 km, 4.1 km past 'The Fortress' turnoff. Park near the bottom of a long hill. The crag is just west of the road.

GR 179709 1:25000

1.6.5.6. C.G. Wall 1 route in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Another isolated outcrop with only the one climb to date.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Just 40 metres uphill from 'Victoria Range' Road after the first hairpin bend north of Mount Thackeray picnic area.

1.6.6. The Fortress Area 98 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.293313, -37.312090

Description:© (kieranl)

Remote and rarely visited.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gunning For The Master

Steep on brilliant rock with outrageous holds.

Start: Start 15 metres right of "Mordoc" is a lovely bulging orange wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Wayne Maher, 1993

19Trad 50m
2 Guns And Greenbacks

Pitch 2 - 3 rests

FA: Wayne Maher, Campbell Mercer, 1993

21 M0Unknown 30m
1.6.6.1. Sawmill Cliff 8 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Big, remote and serious. The existing good climbs are steep and loose and the unclimbed upper wall on the middle cliff is very compact.

The cliff sits just below a saddle high on the range and faces north.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 123649

Head north along Sawmill Track from Strachans for nearly 2 kilometres to a crossroad. Go left (west) along this track which is probably closed to vehicle traffic. Follow the track which contours northish, away from the cliff for a fair distance and, just when you are beginning to despair, cuts sharply back left. Then after another two or three hundred metres the track turns back sharply to the right. Here there should be a large boulder on the left and a large cliff further left. Contour across the hillside for this (10-25 minutes depending on line and luck).

Total walking time 45 - 60 minutes.

1.6.6.2. The Fortress 50 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.298943, -37.307076

Description:© (kieranl)

A varied set of climbs moving right from the "camping caves" on the eastern side of 'The Fortress' block.

While some of the climbs are good and the setting is fantastic, there is a liberal selection of "Campbell Mercer Specials".

Full descriptions of most climbs are not given as the area needs to be revisited and sorted out. However, the relative locations of climbs are here.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach from the 'Victoria Range' Road. FRom the end of the old 4WD track follow the walking track steeply uphill to the caves. These are not a good campsite as there is no water.

1.6.6.3. Crimson Tower 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

Sport climbers have ogled this glowing orange wall for many years. It can be seen as a tantalizing crimson beacon just below 'The Fortress' when walking down from the Gallery. The main wall is totally blank, but just just around the left arete is a more featured orange face that begged to be climbed.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Walk up from 'Harrop Track' along the Fortress hiking trail to the Oasis Camping Cave (about an hour of uphill slogging). Head down stream from this for 5 minutes to arrive at the wall on the right-hand side of the creek. You get a really good view of the wall half way up the walking track. Water can usually be found in the creek.

1.6.6.4. World's End 0 routes in Area
1.6.6.5. Shadow Lands 19 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A collection of buttresses of high-quality quartz-rich rock below the eastern end of 'The Fortress'.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Take the high approach to 'The Fortress'. From the end of the 4WD track "Follow the Fortress walking track to 100 metres past the last creek on the track and just past a slight clearing on the right there is an overgrown remnant of a logging track, which is also on the right. Follow this (old track) past a large fallen tree across the route to a small gully. This is above the left end of the cliff.

Follow the gully down and left for approximately 80 metres to the first buttress of good climbable rock. PS If you have not reached the cliff line in 10 minutes of leaving the walking track, you're lost."

These notes are 16 years old and haven't been checked but the old logging track may still be discernible. It's just before the walking track climbs steeply to the eastern caves.

1.6.6.6. Craigend 9 routes in Area
Summary:
Unknown and Trad
Approach:© (kieranl)

Park car 0.6 km north of 'The Fortress' turnoff. On the western side of the road are some rock outcrops. Walk past th