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Description

This has just one route to date and has a fair bit of potential for more new route ( around say 6-10 routes I would say). This areas is dominated by a large corner in the middle of the crag, capped by a small roof and lovely looking faces on either side. The arete on the right of the corner looks particuarly impressive in the afternoon sun.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

This area is located just north of the flat iron. There is a running creek between which has lovely clean cool water.

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Great climbing up a proud line with good rock.

Start: The commanding corner capped with a small roof 5m from the top near the middle of the cliff. There is a large gum tree sticking pretty much straight out from the cliff at this point.

Start just left of the corner at flake, then move right into corner to ledge at 6m. Up, dancing between the left hand face and corner. Fantastic, consistant climbing on good holds with surprisingly good rock quality and clean rock. Some sections are a little (4-5m) spaced. Take a very full rack up to number 4 BD camalot (with many mid and small cams) and some hexes for good measure. Move left under roof 5m from top to belay on ledge. 50m Rap off (two glue in U-bolts with mallions and large rings)at good ledge.

Pitch 2: Continue up corner, tricky section at around 10m above ledge (around grade 15) to top. Walk off West down gully (lots of nice looking un-touched orange walls in gully).

FA: Josef Goding (P1), Naomi Gibbs, Eric Sidharh & James Mcintosh (P2), 2006

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