A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Harrop Track 703 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.247734, -37.337697

Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

1.1. Graham's Creek 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.270122, -37.318298

1.1.1. Good Friday Gully 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.260571, -37.314580

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Battling The Bulge

Slick and sustained 'Arapiles' style line.

Start: The central line of the middle buttress.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

26Trad 17m
2 Napalm Sunday

Climb the crack left of the left arete.

FA: Neil Barr & Craig Nottle, 1980

14Trad 20m
3 Mayday

Climbs the left leaning dog-legged crack that goes up the middle of the orange wall (left of the major orange wall). Scramble up the easy slab to the belay ledge just below the major crack. Climb the corner/crack to the horizontal break. Traverse left one metre and then climb the crack above to a tricky mantle onto a dirty ledge. Climb the deep crack/chimney above to the top.

FA: Peter Darby & Graham Saunders, 1980

18Trad 30m
4 * Rock Lobster

An appealing finger crack.

Start: Located on the far left end of the wall (20m left of Wonga Park). It can be difficult to reach when the water is up.

  1. 18m (19) Climb the overhanging finger crack and traverse left to a ledge.

  2. 10m (14) Easily up corner.

FA: Craig Nottle, Peter Cunningham & Neil Barr, 1980

19Trad 28m
5 Wonga Park R.F.B.

The line 20m right of 'Rock Lobster', just beyond the overhangs. Mantleshelf to get started.

FA: Ian Barr, Neil Barr, Peter Darby & Grahams Sanders, 1980

16Trad 20m
6 ** Burnt Out

Best route at the crag.

Start: Start as for May Day. At May Day's traverse left continue straight up corner and start of head wall past three BR's to break, #3 camalot, then continue past one more BR (hard clip) to run it out to the top (possible wires).

FA: Adam Demmert & Alastair Hudson, 2005

23Trad 17m
7 Kazual

An atmospheric adventure up the left side of the main wall with a fair bit of loose rock in the upper half. Start behind the conifer 5m R of 'Napalm Sunday'. Up the grey slab then follow easy ramp L to steep orange cracks and through small roof. 'Excellent' view.

FA: Steve Chapman & Kaz Anwin, 2005

16Trad 40m
8 Fatty and Baldys Big Adventure

Starts 3m left of Ralph's Journey on right side of cleft separating right and left walls. Climb the right side of the cleft to the top.

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

15Trad 16m
9 Fried Day (project)

Top roped only. Rob has drilled the holes, but no bolts as yet as he ran out of daylight. Starts 4 meters right of 'Burnt Out' behind the detached small

pillar. A few big moves on sketchy feet to nice climbing on the leftward leaning upside-down staircase.

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

23Trad 20m
10 * Ralph's Journey

Sustained with sinker wires.

Start: Start behind clump of callitris 5m right of cleft seperating right and left walls.

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, Adam Demmert & Jackie Bernardi, 2005

24Trad 16m
11 Where’s Mum?

Start as for LBDO. At 2m traverse left to RB. Crank up right to jugs and wire. Easier climbing to top.

FA: Steve Chapman & Kaz Anwin, 2005

22Trad 10m
12 Baby Bum

Starts 8m L of 'The Crib'. Up horizontal bulges to seam. Up this to top.

FA: Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman & Michael O'Reilly, 2004

18Trad 12m
13 Poets Corner

Start on ledge under the beautiful but too short orange corner. Left under roof and on up to the top.

Start: 10m up and left of 'Flying Possum'.

FA: Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2005

19Trad 14m
14 ** Elle McFerret

Great climbing on excellent rock. Starts 3m right of blunt arête. Boulder start to gain crack (protected with a good, shallow wire at full stretch). Bomber gear and sustained climbing to below roof. Committing pull past bulge via crimps in the black streak to good #2 camalot placement.

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly & Robin Holmes, 2004

24Trad 18m
15 ** Klytus

Starts 6m left of Battling the Bulge. Climb the prominent right leading corner to FH. A strenuous right rising traverse past a 2nd FH brings a jug to hand and a cramped rest. Move left and climb tricky crack to rap rings.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2000

26Trad 17m
16 Flying Possum

Start 3m L of 'Napalm Sunday'. Up crack then step L at second horizontal then up loose shallow corner.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2004

21 RTrad 20m
17 Gay Welders Have Hotter Rods

Starts 15m L of 'Flying Possum'. Nice short face climb. #3 wire in sideways protects crux. Go up.

FA: Steve Chapman, Ross Timms, Tuesday Phelan, 2005

21Trad 8m
18 The Crib

Starts 4m L of Where's Mum? at RB. Bouldery start just R of bolt. Right to Where's Mum?'s bolt, back left on jugs to crib. Have a lie down and cry, then up easily.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2005

22Trad 10m
19 Alex Flashdance

Starts 3m L of GWHHR. Up over bulge to a long reach from undercling. Alternatively pike left into easy going at 5m or why not just walk around the back.

FA: Steve Chapman & Ross Timms, 2005

23Trad 8m
20 Lachlans Big Day Out

Boulder up to horizontal. Step R into the finger crack and up.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2004

19Trad 10m
21 * Ants Pants

Start 5m R of 'Elle McFerret' at termite nest. Bouldery start past fixed wire to crack. Crack to finish. Note: Start can be aided to give sustained crack climbing at about 24.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2004

25Trad 15m
22 Filthy Girls

Crack?

FA: Tuesday Phelan & Anne Redfern, 2005

15Trad 8m
23 * Celebrity Rooter

A fine route marred slightly by a fragile exit. Starts 2m left of blunt arête at left end of first wall. Follow twin cracks to good holds and gear at steepening. Committing climbing to ledge. Step right to belay and rap anchors. Initial escape was off right past dodgy tree and above. Alternatively up big chimney.

FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2004

22Trad 20m
24 * The Lying Rodent

Climb the crack with difficulty to the ledge. Climb over the bulging buttress and the short corner above to the ledge. Organise protection and then traverse left one metre to the arête. This is the right arête of the major orange wall. Climb the arête in a fabulous position to the next ledge. Finish up the crack above, or the arête on the left. Belay on the large ledge. Scramble up to the top and down climb the pinnacle at the back.

Start: Starts at the short splitter finger crack on the small wall just right of the major orange wall.

FA: Michael O'Reilly & Ross Timms, 2004

19Trad 22m

1.1.2. Diseased Wall 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.267229, -37.315459

Description:© (nmonteith)

Home of the mega jug. One of the largest bits of rock in the 'Grampians', but totally lacking in any sort of inspiring climbing for the most part.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

122693, 612869. From Flame Wall bush bash north towards the towering choss pile of 'Diseased Wall'. It is an easy 5min thrash. To descend (epic) walk back and left (west) across rock until you can climb down a few metres, then walk left (west) towards treed gully looking for cairn at top of small wall. Scramble down short face and then down scrub gully to bottom.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Laryngitis

Left the first ascentists speechless. The left hand line.

  1. 40m (7) Climb mossy rock to ledge.

  2. 40m (7) The gutter above is clean and has the biggest jugs that you will ever see.

FA: Ian & Neil Barr, 1980

17Trad 80m
2 Bronchitis

The better of the easy routes.

FA: Peter Darby & Graham Sanders, 1980

7Trad 90m
3 Jugular Vein

The large juggy wall between 'Spinal Column' and 'Bronchitis'. Follow your nose, keeping a bit right of centre. Walk off at half-way terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Louise Shepherd (alts), Steve Monks, 1989

11Trad 80m
4 ** Spinal Column

The major corner line through the centre of the wall offers a fine adventure. Mossy and loose. Has been led in two pitches.

  1. 30m (18) Climb the corner to the first roof.

  2. 10m (19) Go right under the first roof and belay just above. The footholds on this pitch are very mossy!

  3. 20m (20) Jam underneath the next roof (crux) and up the corner to a brilliant belay beneath the third roof.

  4. 10m (17) Continue up and traverse under the next roof.

  5. 30m (10) Climb the stegosaurus wall to the Operating Theatre.

FA: Peter Darby, Neil Barr & Ian Barr, 2000

20Trad 100m
5 Gay Welders Super Corner

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2005

12Trad 45m
6 Welders Butt Crack

Adds an obvious finish to any route on this lower wall. Climbs wall above the Operating Theatre. Starts 25m left of the finish of 'Spinal Column'. Very juggy corner leads to ledge and optional belay. Keep plodding upwards to finish up steep arête and summit glory. Walk off and descend tediously down western side.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2005

12Trad 45m
7 * Accidental Incision During Surgery (AIDS)

One of the longest routes in the 'Victoria Range'. Well, it is if you ignore many routes at 'The Fortress' and 'The Chimney Pots'.

  1. 40m (12) Starts 12m right of 'Spinal Column'. Wander up middle of wall on good jugs to small belay stance. Some loose rock.

  2. 30m (13) Continue up face to belay ledge level with Operating Theatre (this is the same belay point at the end of Spinal Column). Walk 20m left behind block to Operating Theatre Ledge.

  3. 20m (21) Hard start up behind tree and good moves up middle of face on slopers and small edges. Continue up to small ledge.

  4. 15m (19) Head up overhanging wall to large horizontal break then traverse right to arête and up. Harder direct finish is possible but needs bolt.

FA: Jono Schmidt (pitch 1,2,4 Rich Ham (pitch 3), 2005

21Trad 110m

1.1.3. Wallyworld 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

Located on the south east corner of the aptly named 'Diseased Wall', 'Wallyworld' is a little gem in a monstrous sea of choss. The right side of the wall is framed by the classic corner of 'Peep Show' 23 and is capped by a 2m roof 20m off the deck. A standard rack of wires and cams (up to Camalot 3) should suffice along with a bunch of slings to extend runners. All the routes were cleaned before they were climbed however there is still some flaky rock and stray bits of lichen so take care. 'Wallyworld' faces south and is in the shade all day and all year so it's best in the warmer months. For those who get caught out this far in bad weather an excellent bivvy for two or three is located at the start of 'Peep Show'.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

To access 'Wallyworld' follow the northern edge of Flame Wall until you pick up a trail marked with blue ribbon. The trail takes you to the base of an easy ascent gully where a 5 minute scramble gets you to the base of the wall. Allow 20 minutes from Flame Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Me and Johnson

The first of two cracks to the left of 'Peep Show'. Climb the short wall to the base of the crack. At the top of the crack traverse right to finish as for 'Peep Show'.

FA: Graham Trafford, 2008

20Trad 20m
2 Superhands

The second thinner crack. Up the short wall then pull steeply into the base of the crack. When the crack expires traverse right and finish as for 'Peep Show'.

FA: Graham Trafford, 2008

21Trad 20m
3 * Echo Beach

Takes the major weakness through the capping roof just left of 'Peep Show'. Approach via Me and Jonhson or 'Superhands'. Instead of traversing into 'Peep Show' climb the brushed wall and roof above past 4 FH's to a rap station.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2008

23Mixed 20m, 4
4 ** Peep Show

The major curving corner. A steep start leads to some delicate bridging before a strenuous section of underclinging (crux) brings a welcome rest to hand. Continue up the corner to the roof before making a dramatic traverse rightwards to gain the arête. Loweroff from rings.

FA: Graham Trafford, 2008

23Trad 25m

1.1.4. Flame Wall AKA Graham's Creek Supercrag 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.266089, -37.317371

Description:© (nmonteith)

An outstanding orange prow of jutting sandstone that requires a long and taxing approach. Unfortunately the centre of this formation is either too steep or too blank for mere mortals. Perhaps the next generation will take advantage of some of the incredible potential of this area. In the meantime you can enjoy some very nice face and roof routes on either side of the main prow.

Climbers have been sniffing around up here for decades. In early 2003 Neil Monteith and James Pfrunder hiked up in the pouring rain and brought back photos of the main wall dubbing it the Graham's Creek Supercrag. They were however put off by the long approach walk, and the apparent blankness of much of the face. The sheer size and angle was enough to impress others who soon made their move. In 2005, the 'Yerba' crew cut a path up the creek from the nearby 'Good Friday' Wall and set about bolting the unlikely roof climb Out Of Control (24). Robin Holmes dragged several assistants in to help in his two day marathon bolting effort. Eventually he returned for the redpoint and brought in Neil Monteith and Will Monks. Neil got excited and worked furiously to bolt the steepest thing that looked possible, with 'Flaming Lips' (26) being the end result. Steve Chapman optimistically bolted a very thin face route that was steeper than he thought upon redpoint attempts! This route might have to wait for a super hard man. In the meantime Will Monks got given a nice partially bolted project on a platter by the 'Yerba' crew. This route had to wait for more than six months before it was finally climbed as 'Slow Burn' (23). Earlier in the year Steve Chapman also tradded his way up a thin crack variant to Out Of Control to produce 'Edge Burner' (23). In late 2005 Malcolm Matheson did his usual and onsighted all established routes in a single day, including a drawn out battle with the pumpy 'Flaming Lips'. Fast forward three years and Nati local Ingvar Lidman finally puts Steve Chapman's project out of it's misery to create 'The Thin Red Line' (29) and another hard new route - 'Tantalus Released' (29). The main prow of Flame Wall still beckons… Malcolm rapped it – the verdict: "too hard and too far away".

Approach:© (nmonteith)

All up the approach takes about an hour from the road. If you are as enthusiastic as Neil you might get this down to 40 minutes. Walk into 'Good Friday' Wall. From the far left (uphill) end of this crag keep following rock cairns and tape markers up over the hill (just south of the gorge) to arrive on rocky plateau with clear view east towards the proud Flame Wall. Walk right (south) along these rock shelves following large cairns and tape to eventually drop down into the small creek (runs for 8 months of the year). Cross this, and hike steeply up the other side to arrive at the base of the wall. For all the routes you scramble onto a friendly ledge, from the left side, that offers good sun-napping locations for belayers.

The wall faces into the sun for most of the day with shade only in the early hours of the morning. 'Flaming Lips' is in shade until midday. Rain protection is minimal if you get caught this far out without an escape plan!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Starsky and Thrutch

Start: Wide bulging crack on lower cliff, 10m left of access gully to the left side of Flame Wall.

FA: Anita Sharma, Robin Holmes, 2005

16Trad 6m
2 * Steves Project 28Trad 20m
3 ** Slow Burn

A sustained face, neglected for several months after bolting.

Start: The 4m direct start to the ledge has been done but awaits a bolt. In the meantime, start 4m further left beneath 'The Thin Red Line', where a good wire protects the moves to the ledge.

FA: Will Monks, Malcolm Matheson, Gareth Llewelin, Neil Monteith, 2005

23Mixed 18m, 3
4 ** Out of Control

Impressive roof climb in a truly spectacular setting.

Start: Start from back of block (FH) at end of pinnacle.

FA: Robin Holmes, 2005

24Trad 24m
5 ** Flaming Lips

Big time cave climbing up right side of the orange wave.

Start: Scramble in from the left side onto belay ledge 15m from the ground. Belay off single FH.

FA: Neil Monteith, Mike File & Kent Paterson, 2005

26Mixed 30m, 8
6 ** The Thin Red Line

Excellent orange face with lots of tiny crimpers and several FHs. Bring wallnuts to size 7 to supplement the existing FHs. More bolts may be added later.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman

FA: Equipped by Steve Chapman, 2005

29Trad 20m
7 ** Tantalus Released

Start 20m left of 'The Thin Red Line' near the left edge of Flame Wall. Dyno sideways to gain the hanging groove. Continue up the bulging face to a diabolical crux up high. Beware the pumpy finish.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

29Sport 20m, 7
8 ** Edge Burner

Excellent climbing, bomber protection.

Start: Up 'Out of Control' to 4th FH. Ooze 3m left to horn. Directly up lovely crack and over roof on trad gear. Continue up to Double RB lower off on high ledge. First ascent was a ground up onsight.

FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2005

23Mixed 20m, 4

1.1.5. Smallgoods Area 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

From Flame Wall follow the cliff around to the left (north) for 100m until you come to an attractive white/grey wall - the 'Smallgoods Area'. Routes are listed from left to right (to confuse you).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Smokin’ Guns

Climb the sustained wall past five FH's to rings.

FA: Graham Trafford, 2008

23Sport 14m, 5
2 * Is Don Is Good

Start 5m right of Smokin' Guns. Up cruxy wall past five FHs to rings.

FA: Graham Trafford, 2008

24Sport 17m, 5
3 Pepperoni Crack

About 20m right of 'Salami Surprise' is a short bulging crack.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2008

23Trad 10m
4 * Salami Surprise

25m down and right of 'Is Don Is Good' is a blank arête capped by a jutting prow. Scramble up a short gully to the left to gain a small ledge. Pull onto the wall and make a steep traverse rightwards past two FHs. Continue straight up the wall passing four more FHs to rings.

FA: Graham Trafford, 2008

22Sport 18m, 6

1.1.6. The Gorge 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.261296, -37.314256

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Back in Black

Start 5m R of Wonga Park RFB. Black crack then R to ledge. Clip BR then climb bulges on R to break. Crack to top.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steven Wilson, 2005

19Trad 20m

1.1.7. Baby Buttress 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Dragon Wall 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

First crag up Mosquito Creek. Marked 341 on Vic Range 1;25000 map. Generally steep climbing on excelent yellow rock. The crag is marked by lizard-shaped head at west end leering over "Puff".

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 109679

Generally flat and open scrub walk-in, starting 50 metres south of Dozers Track 9Mosquito Creek campers track).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Puff

Hand crack finishing in bulge at left end of wall.

FA: Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1996

16Trad 12m
2 Knights in White Satin

Thin line 1.5 metres left of "Damsel In Distress". Direct finish remains to be done.

FA: Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1997

21Mixed 20m, 1
3 Damsel in Distress

Major line on right of wall.

FA: Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1996

18Trad 20m

1.3. Ultima Thule 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (jgoding)

This has just one route to date and has a fair bit of potential for more new route ( around say 6-10 routes I would say). This areas is dominated by a large corner in the middle of the crag, capped by a small roof and lovely looking faces on either side. The arete on the right of the corner looks particuarly impressive in the afternoon sun.

Approach:© (jgoding)

This area is located just north of the flat iron. There is a running creek between which has lovely clean cool water.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** In The Dominion of Eagles

Great climbing up a proud line with good rock.

Start: The commanding corner capped with a small roof 5m from the top near the middle of the cliff. There is a large gum tree sticking pretty much straight out from the cliff at this point.

FA: Josef Goding (P1), Naomi Gibbs, Eric Sidharh, James Mcintosh (P2), 2006

18Trad 55m

1.4. The Flatiron 47 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.252322, -37.341832

Description:© (jgara)

Visited a few times in the early 90s, then ignored for over a decade. In 2005 the new brigade added over thirty new climbs. This massive north facing cliff is very pleasant on sunny winter days. The best climbing is in the mid grades, but its full potential is yet to be realised. The cliff is very user friendly with good reliable natural protection and there are lower off anchors at the end of many climbs. All bolting has been done at current best practice.

Approach:© (jgara)

Drive north along the Waterworks Track from the gate at Glenelg River Road for 5.4km to the carpark at the northern end (1km past the Slander Gully/Curiosity Crag turn off on Waterworks Track). The back of the top of 'The Flatiron' is visible from the Waterworks Track, roughly straight ahead, as you drive to the carpark.

Walk across the creek at the weir and head north up the right hand side of the grassy/rocky gully following tape and rock cairns. Part way up the big hill the track heads left across the gully then heads steeply up the hill again, following the tape

and cairns to the old 4WD track along the ridgetop. Turn right uphill (heading east) along the old 4WD track for about 100 metres to the cairns that mark the end of the track. From the end of this old vehicular track you can see the top of the back of 'The Flatiron', ahead and slightly to your left. Now veer left past cairns and tape, roughly following the contour into a steep gully. Cross the gully and then head steeply up the hill following the rough track and cairns. At the top of the hill, follow cairns and tape around and gently down to the base of the cliff, on the north side of this spur.

Walking time is approximately 30 to 35 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Iron Awe

The amazing LH rising traverse starting at ground level 15m from the start of the cliff and finishing at the DBB above Extreme Ironing! Take all of your cams, and some of your mate's! It is yet to receive a continuous ascent. The grade of pitch 2 is the subject of some debate in the range of 20-22.

Start: Starts at ground level 15m along from the start of the cliff

  1. 20m (21) Climb the well protected rising diagonal crack /ledge system awkwardly to the DBB above Black Iron.

  2. 24m (21) Traverse left along break to 'Incarceration' DBB. Eats cams up to #3.

  3. 6m (14) Keep traversing left across from 'Incarceration' to the DBB of Extreme Ironing!

FA: Pitch 3 Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, 2005

FA: Pitch 2 Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff, 2005

FA: Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff, 2005

20Trad 25m
2 Swarf

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth

23Trad 9m
3 Black Iron

FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman

20Trad 8m
4 Iron Lady

Up right leaning crack system over the technical bulge and up to the break. Traverse to the DBB above Black Iron

Start: 5m left of Black Iron

FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman, Tuesday Phelan

19Trad 12m
5 Project - Rob Trad 15m
6 Project

At the back of this pinnacle there is an unfinished bolted

project (3 FHs).

Do not climb this route as it still needs more bolts.

R RTrad 12m
7 ** Incarceration

Follows the major line of the cliff. Originally led in one long pitch. The second pitch has three or four aids (No.1 and 2RPs) to a big bucket, and then sustained free climbing to the top.

There is a DBB at the end of the first pitch.

Start: 12m left of Permanently creased.

  1. 16m (23) Straight up the lovely orange corner on perfect 'Grampians' rock. There is a DBB at the end of the first pitch.

  2. 29m (- M2) The second pitch has three or four aids (No.1 and 2RPs) to a big bucket, and then sustained free climbing to the top.

FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes, Steve Wilson; Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1993

23Trad 45m
8 * Extreme Ironing

Since Michael O'Reilly snapped the crux hold off, this route is one or two grades harder.

Start: 4m left of 'Incarceration' at the yellow streak.

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth

25Trad 15m
9 Sand Iron

Climb this sandy crack system directly to the horizontal undercling and fingertip layback of Ironside (crux). Finish as for 'Iron Side'

to the DBB.

Start: At cracks 3m left of Extreme Ironing!

FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman, 2005

23Trad 15m
10 ** Iron Side

Just keeps getting harder.

Start: Starts 4m left of Extreme Ironing!

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, Kaz Anwin, 2005

23Trad 18m
11 New Wave, Old Hat 13Trad 20m
12 Pet Willow Iron 15Trad 15m
13 * Iron Filings

Good old style climbing.

Start: Middle of the three cracks, just left of 'Pet Willow'.

FA: Robin Holmes, Steven Wilson, 2005

19Trad 15m
14 Angle Iron

Nice climb for gym bunnies.

Start: At the left corner crack.

FA: Steven Wilson, Robin Holmes, 2005

20Trad 15m
15 * Pumping Iron 22Trad 28m
16 * Jaffle Iron

Better than it looks.

Start: The corner 2 m left of 'Robbed'.

FA: Rob Booth, Ross Timms, Tuesday Phelan, 2005

16Trad 15m
17 Corner crack - project Rob Trad 15m
18 Iron Age

The corner with a steep start, 7m left of 'Jaffle Iron'. The grade allows for fiddly protection through the crux. The blank section

at 4m is avoided by moving left, then rejoining the line, to a ledge at 8m. Traverse left 5m to finish up 'The Weight'. A better finish would be directly up over the improbable orange bulges from the middle of the traverse. Rap anchors above 'Iron Lung'.

Start: 7m left of 'Jaffle Iron'

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Will Monks, 2005

22Trad 15m
19 Ironear 15Trad 15m
20 * Iron Lung

Crack climbing on lovely orange rock.

Start: As for 'The Weight' (4m left of Iron Age)

FA: Rob Booth, Ross Timms, 2005

19Trad 15m
21 * Irony

Up 'Iron Lung' for approximately 6m and left below bulge and

up the left hand crack.

Start: As for 'Iron Lung'.

FA: Steven Wilson, Tuesday Phelan, 2005

20Trad 15m
22 Steve Project 28Trad
23 Permanent Press 15Trad 12m
24 Underwear Ironing - project Trad
25 HB Roof 26Trad 50m
26 Rob project 25Trad 50m
27 Big chimney 15Trad 50m
28 Mike's face 21Trad 25m
29 Jono's face 17Trad 25m
30 Neil's Project 23Trad 17m
31 Another Jono route? Trad 25m
32 Big Drum Small World

Up weakness and crack; step left through smooth section, back right to line and up. Scramble off and descend carefully to the left.

Start: 10m left of 'Against The Tide'.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2006

18Trad 30m
33 * Iron Will

The righthand roof crack. Established onsight.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Gerry Narcowicz, 2010

25Unknown 20m
34 * Summit Fever

Excellent steep climbing on quality rock on left hand pinnacle.

Start: 6m left of the arete.

FA: Jono Schmidt, James Pfrunder, 2005

20Trad 25m
35 *** Body Attack

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

27Unknown 30m
36 Beyond Gravity

Up wall, passing the left hand end of the orange overhang at half height.

Start: Start about 50m left and around the corner from 'Lost in Deep Space' halfway up the large sloping terrace.

FA: James McIntosh, Glen Donohue, 2005

12Trad 40m
37 * The Bottom Inspectors

A cheeky climb with pushy right-wing tendencies. Balancy, but well protected.

Start: At the first weakness.

FA: Michael Hampton, Edwin Young, 1991

21Trad 25m
38 * Rump Ranger

A really tasty excursion up a wall of buckets n' bums.

Start: Climb the second weakness 4m left of 'The Bottom Inspectors'.

FA: Edwin Young, Michael Hampton, 1991

18Trad 25m
39 ** Permanently Creased

Sustained and technical climbing on 'Arapiles' type rock.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Iron Lady'.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Rob Booth, Steve Chapman, 2005

24Trad 14m
40 Lost in Deep Space

Steeply up corner to overhang. Step right then back left to large sloping ledge. Move left along ledge to shallow right leading diagonal cracks and up.

Start: Start about 30m north of saddle at orange left facing corner. Cairned.

FA: Glen Donohue, James McIntosh, 2005

14Trad 20m
41 Pet Willow

Starting off a rock cairn up and left to finish at sling above 'Iron Filings'.

Start: 20m left of New Wave Old Hat, start at the right hand crack.

FA: Jevon Hardware, Maria Lastra, 2005

15Trad 15m
42 * The Weight

There is a corner becoming three rounded cracks. Climb the right wall of corner, following the right crack to terrace. Rap anchors above 'Iron Lung'.

Start: 4m left of 'Iron Age'.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Woodfield, 1991

16Trad 18m
43 Robbed

May have been climbed by Glen Tempest and party but not

recorded.

Start: 9m left of 'Angle Iron' and 2 m right of 'Jaffle Iron'.

FA: Robin Holmes Tuesday Phelan, 2005

12Trad 16m
44 Against The Tide

Start: Starts either at the weakness and flake, or at the dogleg crack 4m left of the weakness, below the large grey corner.

  1. 35m (16) Climb the weakness, or the dogleg crack, and head up to the large grey corner. Climb the corner and move right to belay beneath the chimney.

  2. 35m (12) Climb the classic chimney up to the ledge, past a large chockstone and crack. A final scramble through the rear of the cave leads to the top of the cliff. Walk off the back of the cliff to descend down the western end of cliff.

FA: Robin Holmes

FA: Pitch 2: Alastair Hudson, Mark Gould, Laura Gould,

FA: Pitch 1: Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman, 2005

16Trad 70m
45 * Malcolm's Roof/Crack

Climbs the weakness through the roof and prow at the highest part of the wall, above and to the right of 'Against The Tide'.

Start: 'Access' the start by climbing 'Against The Tide' (16) and

moving right along the sloping ledge/chimney to belay at the

lowest point.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert, 2006

26Trad 20m
46 Turkish Bath

Climb the flake, step right and then motor up the grey streak leftwards through the bulges.

Start: 4m left of 'Rust Never Sleeps'.

FA: FTRA Glenn Tempest, 1992

25Trad 25m
47 * Rust Never Sleeps

Climb the technical crack till it ends. Clip the fixed hanger and climb up and diagonally right on spaced holds to finish up 'Irony'.

Start: 2m left of 'Iron Lung'.

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly, Rob Booth, 2005

22Trad 18m

1.5. Slander Gully 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.228489, -37.349586

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Liars, Damn Liars And The F.C.V.

The crack right of the right-hand arete of the outcrop.

FA: Peter Watling, 1985

5Trad 10m
2 What Uncle Bangla Did For Easter

His block.

Go up the right-hand arete of the outcrop, step left at the bulge and up the line.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Watling, 1985

12Trad 15m
3 When Heather Hops Out ...

Initial difficulties ease.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Watling, 1985

12Trad 15m
4 * Golden Gaytime

Superb jamming. Slightly dirty exit doesn't really detract.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Nyrie Dodd, 1985

23Trad 25m
5 * Give Me Aids

A pretty good route up the middle of the wall, but the fixed gear needs sorting out.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

25Mixed 20m, 1
6 The Fight to be Male

Short boludery section past manky fixed pin.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

24Trad 25m
7 * Not Raving But Climbing

A good mixture with jamming and technical face climbing.

Start: Start on the left wall of the descent gully at a hand-carck in a black face.

FA: Neil Barr and Peter Watling, 1985

17Trad 45m
8 Motornose

Path of least resistance left of "Not Raving But Climbing" and right of the arete right of "Wimp's Picnic".

FA: Neil Barr, Les Flynn, 1986

5Trad 45m
9 Whimp's Picnic

Why bother?

Start: Start at hidden chimney 30 metres left of "Not Raving But Climbing".

FA: Peter Watling, Julie Flynn, 1985

12Trad 50m
10 * Keiph Ledgerton

A classic at the grade.

FA: Alan Hope, Julie Flynn, 1983

9Trad 47m
11 * Take This Job and Shov It

Enjoyable as long as you don't fall off.

Start: Start a metre or so right of "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat".

  1. 20m (16) Head diagonally right to the ledge and bushes halfway up the right arete of the wall

  2. 20m (8) Up the arete, as for "Black Feral cat, An Undeniable Truth".

FA: Greg Caire, Sharyn George, Glenn Tempest, 1997

16 RTrad 40m
12 * Black Feral Cat, An Undeniable Truth

The arete left of "Keiph Ledgerton", starting up a crack on the left. At the overhang make a brief detour onto the left wall.

FA: Neil Barr, Linda Horsley, Julie Flynn, 1983

13Trad 50m
13 *** Twentieth Century Black Feral Cat

Climb the middle of the black slab.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Darby, 1983

18 RTrad 45m
14 Irish IUD

Has fragile face-climbing with no protection. Basically superseded by the later routes on this face.

Start: Start as for "Fried Tent Dwellers"

FA: Peter Darby, Neil Barr, 1983

20 XTrad 35m
15 * Fried Tent Dwellers

Follow the crack past a bush and on to a tree near the overlap (belay possible). Continue through the overlap an up.

Start: Start on the face left of and at right-angles to "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat" at a crack.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence, 1991

19Trad 45m
16 ** Seaweed Gorillas

Great face climbing on a smooth wall.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Fried Tent Dwellers".

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

22Mixed 40m, 2
17 * Fossils In The West

Something of an escape from "Seaweed Gorillas"

Start: Start as for "Seaweed Gorillas"

FA: Goeff Butcher, 1991

22Trad 40m
18 * Not About Heroes

A good, sustained climb.

Start: Start at thin crack just right of the arete left of "Irish IUD"

  1. 20m (19) Up the thin crack until able to move left to a flake-line on the arete. When the flake ends, traverse left to the base of a crack in the centre of the wall and a tiny stance.

  2. 35m (20) Up the crack with some hard moves when it thins down and leads diagonally left.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve (alt), 1986

20Trad 55m
19 * F!ush

A superb piece of rock but tends to be a bit damp after rain.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Watling, 1985

16Trad 40m
20 Bonsai Your Pet

Intermittent cracks in the wall right of the corner.

FA: Neil Barr, Julie Flynn, Linda Horsley, 1983

14Trad 18m
21 Cymru Or Stuff Like That

Corner to cave. Now either abseil off, wander carefully off right or continue up unpleasant off-width.

Start: Start amongst the trundle craters below the major corner.

FA: Linda Horsley, julie Flynn, Neil Barr, 1983

12Trad 18m
22 Scabs On Heat

Reported as dangerously loose by the FA party.

Start: Start below a large roof which is a prominent feature of the crag (VRG)

  1. 35m (5) Up the line to a perched boulder. Back off a little and go up the right-hand crack to a large ledge on the right.

  2. 35m (5) Climb up to the roof. Back off a little and traverse right instead and finish up the wall right of the roof on awesome jugs.

FA: Neil Barr, Julie Flynn, 1985

5Trad 70m
23 * Ambrose

Up seam then right to twin cracks and so to gum tree.

Start: Start at thin crack 5 metres left of "F!lush".

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1993

21Trad 25m
24 Work The Meat

Trench climbing par excellence.

Start: Start at the right-hand side of the major horizontal break that "Grease Nipples" traverse from the left..

FA: Louise Shepherd, Nyrie Dodd, 1985

22Trad 30m
25 Fillet De Boeuf

Up wall, steeply at first then easily to a ledge at 8 metres. Step left and continue up the steep wall.

Start: Start at foot of knobbly wall on right of scungy corner.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1993

18Trad 20m
26 Petit Dejeuner

Climb up to ledge at 8 metres then move 3 metres right and climb crack-line running between left chimney and right arete.

Start: Start as for 'Fillet De Boeuf'

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1993

13Trad 12m
27 Hot Croissant

Marginal pro.

Start: Start on grey wall 25 metres right of 'Petit Dejeuner'

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1993

15 RTrad 10m
28 Delusions Of Grandeur

Not sure whether this should be under 'Mt Pox' or 'Slander Gully'.

Start: Follow track to knobbly, steep wall 100 metres right and upstream from Gastronomique Wall.

FA: Christina Freestone, Greg Aimer, 1993

12Trad 25m
29 Deadly Earnest 17Trad 35m
30 * Robins Arete (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag) 22Trad 14m
31 Big Nose (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) 18Trad 12m
32 Sticky Beak (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) 17Trad 12m
33 Bug Powder Dust (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) 18Trad 27m
34 The Generator Route (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) 22Trad 12m
35 ** Careful with that Axe, Liam (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) 23Trad 30m
36 Tarzan's Swing (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) 22Trad 16m
37 Densei (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node)

FA: Ramon Francis, 2003

24Trad 15m
38 ** Grease Nipples (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) 20Trad 45m
39 * Silly Sausage

The left wall of the "Cymru" corner is undercut by a cave.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1995

17Trad 27m
40 World Championship Wrestling

The right-hand line from thee ledge has good climbing after the initial scungy section.

  1. 38m (20) Up to the ledge then step right and up corner. Step left and mantle, up to roof, then step right to belay.

  2. 18m (-) Crack, then left across horizontal to second crack. Up.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 1996

20Trad 56m

1.6. Mt Pox 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.229929, -37.349475

Description:© (nmonteith)

It's given the name to keep you away, it's actually ok.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Above 'Slander Gully' and 'Curiosity Crag'.

Coming up from 'Slander Gully', the first thing you come to is a compact wall going back up the hill. The descent gully is at the upper end of this wall. The main prow is undercut by a large overhang which is also the bivvy cave. The first route starts just left of the cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Pretty Poxy

Excellent route. Double ropes essential.

Start: Start just left of bivvy cave.

21Trad 25m
2 Arctic Pox

Start: Start just where the track emerges from the bivvy cave area.

13Trad 40m
3 Howling Huskies

Start: Start on right side of bivvy cave wall, a few metres left of the first chimney/chasm.

18Trad 50m
4 * Roll Over, Oates

Great for the grade.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1994

15Trad 48m
5 Scott's Last Move

Start: Start at wall 4 mtres right of "Roll Over, Oates"

19Trad 48m
6 * Snow Cat Rock 'n' RoIl

Start: Start on left end of ledge off rocking block.

18Trad 50m
7 ** Taste of Husky

Two pitch crack route

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

23Trad 60m
8 * Pox on the Run

Start: Start at undercut wall 3 metres left of prominent undercut corner.

20Trad 45m
9 Pox FM

Swing left over bulge to ledge as for "Pox Trot". Step right and up rounded arete to finish on ledge. Abseil from sling or do further 30 metres of easy climbing (?Scabs On Heat)

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

16Trad 15m
10 The South Pox

Face on one of the last walls at right-hand end of cliff, with tree on ledge at 15 metres.

  1. 35m (12) Up to ledge.

  2. 35m (12) Left-facing corner on upper wall.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1996

12Trad 70m
11 Poxy Lady

Overlap, crack at right end of next main wall.

  1. 30m (17) The crack. Move right below the roof to join "Scabs On Heat".

  2. 35m (5) As for "Scabs On Heat"

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 1996

17Unknown 65m
12 Pox Trot

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Scabs On Heat", near arete.

  1. 35m (16) Undercut start, then take left-leading ramp/crack to top of block.

  2. 35m (5) as for "Scabs On Heat"

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1996

16Unknown 70m

1.7. Curiosity Crag 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.228098, -37.348179

Description:© (jgara)

Curiosity Crag is situated in a shady amphitheatre next to 'Slander Gully' with an excellent range of climbs, especially in the grades 18-25. The crag is very well sheltered from the sun and wind making climbing possible on the steeper south facing orange wall (Curiosity Wall) and on the overhanging sports routes (Tarzan Wall) in almost all weather conditions. 'Access' is very easy and while the atmosphere is relaxing, the climbing should get your pulse pumping.

The first routes recorded in the amphitheatre were 'Night Owl Theatre' (14!!), climbed by Peter Treby in 1985, and 'Deadly Earnest' (17) by Gary Lyons in 1993. Since 2003 over 25 new routes have been developed. The long routes up Curiosity Wall are reminiscent of the Blue Mountains, with some of the best sustained face climbing in the 'Grampians'. Most climbs are mixed routes – containing both bolts (stainless steel) and natural gear.

Until the guide is all transfered onto this website check out the pdf on Chockstone: http://www.chockstone.org/guide.htm

Approach:© (jgara)

Follow the Waterworks Track, which runs off the Glenelg River Road for 4.4km from the start; then take the steep, 4WD track sharply on the right for 100 meters; a double cairn marks the walking track on the left, heading uphill 200m to the crag. If the Waterworks Track is open, walking time is only a few minutes.

If the Waterworks Track is closed; park at the gated track 700m north of No.1 Creek on 'Harrop Track'. Walk up 600m to the Waterworks Track, turn left and follow it for 1.2km to the 4WD track, around 20-30 minutes walk.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Big Nose

Start: At the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, where the descent track meets the wall.

FA: Rob Booth, Jill Gara, Ross Timms, 2003

18 RTrad 12m
2 Sticky Beak

Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary.

Start: In the middle of the second tor down from 'Bug Powder Dust'.

FA: JIll Gara, Michael O'Reilly, Tuesday Phelan, 2003

17 RTrad 12m
3 Bird's Nest Soup

Straight up block on rounded jugs left of the arete. Tricky move at the end to gain ledge. Easily accessed from the descent gully.

Start: 5m left of the bolt on 'Bug Powder Dust' ledge.

FA: Tuesday Phelan, Jill Gara, 2003

16Trad 10m
4 I'm Black and I'm Proud

Variant finish to 'Bug Powder Dust'.

Start: As for 2nd pitch of 'Bug Powder Dust'.

FA: W Monks, N Cotton, C Barrett, M O'Reilly , 2003

20Trad 15m
5 * The Extension Lead

Exposure plus, and linked with The Generator Routes this makes an awesome long pitch.

Start: At halfway ledge two meters right of Bug Powder

FA: Rob Booth, Ross Timms

18Sport 15m
6 Bug Powder Dust

Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt.

Start: On the left of the grey arete.

FA: Jill Gara, Michael O'Reilly, Robin Holmes, 2003

18Trad 27m
7 The Generator Route

Three bolts to ledge and DDB.

Start: 6 meters right of 'Bug Powder Dust'.

FA: Rob Booth Steve Chapman

22Sport 12m
8 Screaming Trees Variant 21Trad 14m
9 ** Screaming Trees

Up past 2 FH's and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to 3rd FH. Thin moves over bulge brings some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay.

Start: Just right of 'The Generator Route'.

FA: Steve Chapman, Steven Wilson, 2003

26Trad 25m
10 ** Night Owl Theatre

The original route on the cliff."Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing." (Edited version of original description)

Start: At the line that splits the wall.

FA: Peter Treby, Andrew Webb, Neil Barr., 1985

18Trad 30m
11 Deadly Earnest

A scary girdle traverse on friable rock.

Start: At sandy cleft right of 'Night Owl Theatre'.

  1. 10m (17) Up sandy cleft with no runnners.

  2. 25m (17) Crux, step across left, around arete, gingerly down and continue left to the welcome ledge.

FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, Nick Tapp, 1993

17 RTrad 35m
12 ** Careful With That Axe, Liam

Sustained face climbing

Start: 5 meters right of 'Night Owl Theatre'.

FA: Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes, 2003

23Sport 30m
13 *** Cat Power

A clever link up that takes in the best parts of two great routes. Endurance climbing on great rock.

Start: Start as for Careful With That Axe Liam.

FA: Michael O’Reilly, Steve Chapman

24Trad 36m
14 ** Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat

Sustained varied moves on excellent rock.

Start: 5m right of Careful With That Axe, Liam.

FA: Steve Chapman, Brian Gray, 2003

25Sport 30m
15 ** The Lynx Effect

Absorbing climbing directly up the arête to the highest point on the buttress. Double up on small wires, a few small cams are handy, despite appearances protection is good.

Start: Starts in the chasm 15m right of 'Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat'

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, 2003

23Trad 30m
16 * Cat Scratch Fever

Follow Lynx Effect for 8m to where it traverses left. Arrange gear and launch straight up on crimps. Watch your back on the wall behind if you fall.

Continue directly up grey wall.

Start: Start as for Lynx Effect.

FA: Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes, 2003

23Trad 30m
17 Bridge Too Far

Stretch Your calves before you start.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Cat Scratch Fever' at end of chasm.

FA: Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes, 2003

17Trad 18m
18 Separation Anxiety

Novelty climbing through overhang, lack of protection at start.

Start: Runs up centre of the wall at the top of the grotto through the orange overhang.

FA: Rob Booth, Jill Gara, 2003

20 RTrad 15m
19 * Ab Slab

Follow line of rings.

Start: Right of 'Separation Anxiety'.

FA: Brendon and Chris Abernethy, 2004

23Sport 15m
20 Valentine's Day Massacre

An entrant for the worst of the worst... Crappy line, dodgy rock, ground fall potential, its all here.

Start: Left of corner on the track before Paler Shade of White just past the big log.

  1. 17m (22) Unprotected hardish moves on dodgy holds lead to jugs at overhang where the gear is not good and the moss begins. Continue to belay at big ledge. Smell the roses.

  2. 8m (19) Continue up left side of orange wall via a most awkward slopey mantle off the deck.

FA: Steve Chapman, Jill Gara (alternative leads), 2004

22 XTrad 25m
21 A Paler Shade of White

Bold climbing leftwards along the rising traverse. Double ropes are useful.

Start: At weakness 6m left of 'Traditional Arrangement'.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, Robin Holmes, 2003

21 RTrad 22m
22 Traditional Arrangement

Harder than it looks.

Start: At the right leaning hand/fist crack in middle of the wall at ground level.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, Robin Holmes, 2003

18Trad 13m
23 Gerni To The Centre Of The Earth

Will clean up with traffic.

Start: Starts on the ledge at FH 2m left of 'Controlled Burn'.

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, 2006

22Trad 14m
24 * Controlled Burn

Climb left past bolt then right to gear placement. Committing climbing to top on slopey bulges. Take small cams and wires.

Start: Starts below the bolt in the middle of the face.

FA: Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman, 2003

22Trad 14m
25 * Moonlight Mile

Climb directly up the wall, to the left end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the short corner/flake and exciting wall above.

Start: Starts approx. 2 to 3m right of bolt on 'Controlled Burn' and 4m left of the right arête.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, 2003

21Trad 11m
26 * Emotional Rescue

Climb upwards diagonally right to the right end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the horizontal breaks to the small overlap/rooflet near the right arête. Committing moves directly up the wall above (crux).

Start: Starts as for 'Moonlight Mile'

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, 2003

22Trad 12m
27 * Tarzan's Swing

Overhanging fun jug fest.

Start: Starts below bolt 3m right of arête.

FA: Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman, 2003

22Sport 16m, 6
28 Tarzan Swing Densei Link up

If you still have some juice left at the end of Tarzans Swing, clip the anchor with a long sling and monkey right past a FH on unlikely jugs to the final moves and then anchor of Densei

FFA: Adam Demmert, James Scott-Bohanna, 2013

23Sport 18m, 8
29 * Densei

Right side of scoops, 6 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 4m right of Tarzan's Swing.

FA: Ramon Francis, Philip Bogenschütz & Brendon Abernethy, 2003

24Sport 15m
30 ** The Organiser

Up left side of scoops. 5 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 15m R of 'Tarzan' Swing.

FA: Brendon Abernethy, 2003

25Sport 12m
31 ** Grease Nipples

Good traverse leads to great final crack.

Start: Start under the huge block that leans against the left edge of the wall, 15-20 metres right of

  1. 10m (9) Climb up through a hole to the top of the block and then up to terrace.

  2. 15m (19) Traverse right along the brek to the vertical line and up a couple of moves to a hanging belay.

  3. 10m (20) Crack to top.

FA: FA: Louise Shepherd, Nyrie Dodd did the finish as part of Work The Meat. Complete ascent : Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman. Easter, 1988

20Trad 45m
32 * Variant of Screaming Trees

First part of 'Screaming Trees', past 2 FH and wires to horizontal break, traverse left to the anchors on the Generator.

Start: As for 'Screaming Trees'.

21Trad 12m
33 * Catatonia

Backs off a little on arete, but keeps you working till the end.

Start: 8m right of Curiosity on the black streak.

FA: Steve Chapman, Jill Gara, 2006

23Trad 32m

1.8. Eagles Head 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.223135, -37.353959

Description:© (nmonteith)

This section of the guide used to have the indecipherable name of "Eagles Head 'Lower Tier' 'Right Side' / Upper Exploration Wall", whatever that meant. But the fact is this section needs to cover all of 'Eagles Head', so a correspondingly simple title is apt. Predominantly traditional climbing high in the 'Victoria' ranges. Good quality routes within grade 13 to 25. Generally very solid rock.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From Glenelg River Road enter Waterworks Tk. Drive along and down steep hill. Turn right then park in small car park next to the concrete spillway. 35min up hill once you have crossed concrete spillway. Head over keeping left, up onto steep ridge. Follow ridge up staying to right side of large boulders.

For lower tier routes these are described left to right. Abseil Descent for all routes (Inc Exploration Wall descent) above 'Born to Fly'.

Exploration Wall is the large grey wall directly above lower tier right side.

Upper tier routes are described from right-to-left.

Lower tier routes are described from left-to-right.

Thank goodness for the topo because the above description is almost incomprehensible even if you've been to the crag. The easiest way to describe the access is: walk up to 'Ruined Castle' (described in another section), left along the base of that crag, then up the hillside to 'Eagles Head'. It'll take you about half an hour, maybe a bit more.

The left-hand end of the lower tier is probably easiest reached by walking up the ridge to it from Waterworks Track. This takes about 30 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 GT Stripe

The wide corner.

Start: Wide corner on left side of bushy alcove a few metres right of where the old pad straight up from Waterworks Track reaches the cliff.

FA: Heather Phillips, Alan Hope, 1982

13Trad 25m
2 Not The Kingswood

Start: Start at the arete 2 metres left of "GT Stripe"

  1. 10m (16) 'Arete' then wall, exiting left of a large boulder onto large ledge.

  2. 15m (12) Up the right edge of the main face.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (alt), 1982

16Trad 25m
3 Pretty In Pink

Follow a corner crack through a roof then a face from a terrace.

Start: Start just left of where the old track meets the cliff and just right of an empty bolt hole.

FA: Keith Egerton, James Falla, 1984

16Trad 25m
4 * Sweet Thursday

Climb the corner and finish straight up the wall. A variant finish at the same grade is to move left into the left-leading diagonal.

Start: The next gully to the left has two corners on the right side. The right-hand, short corner.

FA: Jim Nelson, M.Spence. Variant: Felicity Rousseaux, Stephanie Perrie, 1978

16Trad 25m
5 ** Sundae

A lovely climb

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Cunningham, 1978

18Trad 25m
6 * Eat It

A classy arete but fiddling in the protection is scary.

Start: Start as for "Sundae"

FA: Louise Shepherd, Geoff Weigand, 1985

23 RTrad 25m
7 Noisy Dog Night

Climb the wall for 10 metres then move up left to a large ledge. Climb the arete on the right.

Start: Start at a tree at the base of the left wall of the "Sundae" gully.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Heather Phillips, 1981

13Trad 40m
8 * Copybook

Amusing start and a good continuation

Start: Start 10 metres left of the "Sundae" gully at an undercut corner.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Arthur Glencross, 1981

13Trad 40m
9 No Name Country

Climb the wall until just below the left edge of the big roof. The arete on the left to an exciting finish.

Start: Start a few metres left of "Copybook", just left of the centre of the wall.

FA: Ian Anger, Kieran Loughran, 1985

17Trad 40m
10 * Bushwalking In The Gramps

Start is difficult to protect.

Start: Start at round arete just left of ,em>No Name Country".

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1984

21 RTrad 40m
11 District Nursing Service

Corner to roof and move right to easy ground

Start: Start at orange corner 15 metres left of "Bushwalking In The Gramps".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

24 RTrad 20m
12 * Ulla

A fine climb spoiled by a silly crux.

Start: Start at orange corner as for "District Nursing Service".

FA: Ulla Pearson (to ledge). Geoff Weigand, Tony Perason (complete route), 1984

22Trad 40m
13 * Cherry Boy

Geoff was pointed at this to keep him away from STD Wall.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

27Trad 20m
14 Flying Compost

Start: Start in the corner just right of the ramp of "Rumbuggery"

  1. 30m (16) Up the arete for 5 metres then left to a ledge in a corner. Up to a ledge on the left.

  2. 10m (16) Up the corner.

  3. 10m (16) Traverse right and go up the arete to a gully.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Jim Nelson, 1978

16Trad 50m
15 * Rumbuggery

The big diagonal ramp that is the access route for "STD Wall". Finish up the corner at the left side of the wall.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Treby (alt), 1978

16Trad 95m
16 *** Discipline and Punish

Sustained right arete of "STD Wall"

  1. 20m (23) The crack on the arete, belaying just below bushy ledge.

  2. 15m (23) Up ledge for 2 metres, launch up face to belay on slopey ramp.

  3. 20m (-) Wander across left to abseil chain.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day, 1991

23Trad 55m
17 ** Venus Aphrodites

Fondling rock never felt so good.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Geoff Weigand, 1985

25Trad 45m
18 ** Electra, Ring Your Mother

Classic central line.

  1. 25m (25) Up from above the horizontal gum past a fixed wire, moving right where the crack steepens at 20 metres and mantle onoto belay stance.

  2. 25m (20) up to rappel station.

FA: louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, 1986

25Trad 50m
19 ** The Lash

Rum, buggery and the lash; traditional Australian pastimes.

The superb sustained left-hand line on STD wall starts as a wide crack and rapidly improves.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, 1984

23Trad 25m
20 The Bumbly Threshold

Start: Start 15 metres right of "Solace" below a diagonal crack 30 metres up the cliff.

  1. 30m (15) Up a mild depression and continue in a rut to the base of the crack.

  2. 40m (15) Traverse up right for 10 metres then climb up flakes to eventually veer back left to the top of the diagonal crack.

  3. 20m (15) Climb the overhang and left-leaning corner.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1980

15Trad 90m
21 * Solace

Good first pitch but the start is poorly protected.

Start: Start at the short yellow corner at the right end of the cave.

  1. 43m (16) Up the yellow corner and traverse right into the main line. Climb the corner, partly on the left wall, to a ledge below the third roof.

  2. 36m (-) Continue up the line.

FA: Peter Treby, Peter Watling (alt), 1978

16 RTrad 79m
22 ** Chill Fingers

Start: Start at the short yellow corner at the right-hand end of the long cave, as for "Solace"..

  1. 26m (19) Up into poorly protected yellow corner and exit left onto the wall and move up to a flake-line. Follow this until it ends then wend your way up the wall to belay below a corner.

  2. 30m (-) Up the corner then the easy face above to the overhangs which are turned on the right.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 2000

19Trad 65m
23 * Some Faraway Beach

Start: About 8 metres left of the right-hand side of the long cave where a flake-line crosses the roof of the cave to the lip. Start where the flake reaches the lip.

  1. 30m (19) Pull the lip of the cave onto the wall above. Go up the wall, tending a little left until a line leads back right more towards the centre of the wall. A short flake leads to a ledge below the left of two corners.

  2. 30m (18) Up the lefthand corner then easily up the wall. Take the capping roof at its widest point.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger, 1985

19Trad 60m
24 Talon

Start: Start in manky gully at left side of face.

  1. 45m (-) Follow the diagonal flake on the right until it finishes. Traverse 5 metres right and climb up to large ledge.

  2. 40m (19) Up wall 2 metres left of the crack to eroding ledges. Go diagonally left to the overhang, through the weakness and up the left-facing corner.

FA: Heather Phillips, Peter Cunningham, 1981

19Trad 80m
25 Buglers Retreat

Utterly worthless.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Heather Phillips, 1981

10Trad 100m
26 Benazir

Supposed to be surprisingly easy climbing after a hard start. Gear was scoped out from abseil beforehand which suggest that it might be hard to protect onsight.

Start: Two buttresses left of "Talon" is an attractive, steep wall characterised by horizontal breaks and an overhanging left arete. Probably the face left of "Exploration Wall".

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, Mike Broadbent., 1989

22Trad 35m
27 Long Distance

Climb the wall to a flake-line at the bulge. Follow the flake-line until it runs out, move left and go up.

Start: Start 4 metres right of the left edge of the outcrop.

FA: Stephen Burke, Kieran Loughran. Easter, 1985

20Trad 15m
28 * What's Marilyn Wearing?

Up thin crackline for 12 metres and traverse left to rest and thread in scoop (small cam protects crux which includes traverse). Exit right and up subtle corner to large vegetated ledge.

Start: Start in the middle of the smooth wall right of "Talon"

FA: Tim Day, Louise Shepherd (alt), 1991

22Trad 65m
29 ** Modern Exploration

Great face climbing through sustained twin seams.

Start: A ripper 'best route on wall'

2m left of ADKOE

Easy first part until under twin cracks in middle steep section of wall. Take cracks to good horizontal then right though weakness to middle ledge. Technical exit moves gets you to easier ground. Face above to rap station.

FA: Damien Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006

21Trad 30m
30 Off Shore Drilling

Interestng climbing at easyier grade.

Start: Obvious main corner at left-hand end of cliff.

Interesting finish just before exiting onto ledge

FA: Solo Geoff Butcher, 2006

10Trad 23m
31 Morals and Dogma

Pockets & seams. Good variety.

Start: Pocketed crack/seam right of small cave, approx. 25m right of 'Wedgy'.

FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006

16Trad 15m
32 Ssshh, don’t tell the masses 15m

Next face/buttress right. Line through bulges on left side of buttress

Start: Easily up to first ledge, up over bulge, up to second ledge, over small headwall to easy corner. Take care at top with loose rock. Finish at rap station above 'Raptor'.

FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006

18Trad 15m
33 ** Bloodhound

Technical 'Arete' moves.

Start: 'Try to sniff these moves out'. Good wire gets you past the first FH.

FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006

21Trad 17m
34 Peace

Thin Face Climbing

Start: Left black stained line/seam on slabby recessed wall.

FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006

19Trad 15m
35 Arête Syndrome

Ladder to Top. Bit loose at Top.

Start: Grey face/wall right side of arête, 3m around & right of M&D.

FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006

13Trad 15m
36 Inadequate Oxygen

1meter left of 'Top Hat'. Nice climbing to sustained crux.

Start: 1m left of TH easy start to middle section sustained moves though break on horizontals to ledge then upper wall in a short corner to under roof.

FFA: Damien Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006

18Trad 27m
37 Solitude

Sustained face climbing

Start: Line/seam 2m right of 'Peace'.

FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006

20Trad 15m
38 * Raptor

Great Route / 'Steep' 'Arete' with tricky crux.

Start: 'Steep' arête approx. 3m right of Ssshh, don't tell the masses. Finishes at rap station.

FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006

22Trad 18m
39 The Natural Alternative

More sustained at possibly higher grade than solitude

Start: Line/seam 2m right of 'Solitude'.

FA: SH - Project, 2000

Trad 15m
40 ** Born to fly

Two great corners with exposed traverse.

Start: A fun well protected climb under two small orange roofs.

FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006

17Trad 18m
41 Wedgy

First route as you reach the crag.

Easy angled arete 3m right of Hidden MSG.

Start: Start just left after small cave.

First route done at 'Troposphere'.

FA: Lesbian Truckers Co-op, 2006

13Trad 15m
42 Maggie

Takes a lovely wall but not much information about it.

Start: Start as for "What's Marilyn Waring".

FA: ?Louise Shepherd, 2000

22Trad 30m
43 Wanna Buy An Idea

Varied face climbing with tricky crux.

Start: As for GRB then left on flakes that traverse 2m to a stance.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006

18Trad 28m
44 Top Hat

Easy Scamble to Anchors

Start: Scramble up 'Arete' to Anchors

FA: Solo Damien Heath, 2006

8Trad 27m
45 * Different Kind of Esky

More face climbing with thin breaks

Start: 'Excellent' route with great moves, worth a star

2m left of IO easy first section to middle wall, then break though just left of a protruding block perched on the middle ledge, upper wall to large ledge

FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006

19Trad 27m
46 Hidden MSG

On Juggs this time...

Start: Seam 3m Right of 'Solitude'.

FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006

15Trad 15m
47 * The Final Solution

Arete climbing with large pockets. 2 x fixed hangers.

Start: T1 start, arête with tree at base.

FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006

18Trad 18m
48 The Velvet Beak

Thin holds starts you off.

Start: Still on 'Talon' Wall far 'Left Side'.

Arête left-hand end of 'Talon' Wall

Thin start on arête leads to faint crack to ledge just right of 'Talon' first pitch.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006

17Trad 25m
49 This is not a club trip

Easy angled corner at left end of 'Lower Tier' 'Right Wall'.

Start: Easy corner 3-4 meters left of 'The Final Solution'.

FA: Lesbian Truckers Co-op, 2006

15Trad 15m
50 Get Ready Bold

Pleaseant but sustained face climbing

Start: Pleasant outing

1m left of ME under the gap in the two protruding blocks on the middle ledge.

Easy ground to a number of flake moves right. Move left to go though gap between blocks, face to ledge.

FA: Damin Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006

19Trad 27m
51 BITG Variant Start

Climb seams 2 metres left of the start of "Bushwalking In The Gramps" past a poor pin (probably not necessary)

FA: Kieran Loughran, Tony Pearson, 1984

23Trad

1.9. Eagles Head Summit Slab 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Force 10 9Trad 50m
2 Mad Dogs And Englishman 9Trad 50m
3 Out In The Noonday Sun 8Trad 50m
4 Jetstream 8Trad 44m
5 Wind Shear 8Trad 35m
6 Lee Shore 5Trad 33m
7 Blow The Man Down 9Trad 33m

1.10. Back And Beyond 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 I Think I'll Eat My Hat 17Trad 15m
2 I Used To Be A Beardstroker , But I'm All Right Now 21Trad 24m
3 Doomsday Destination

The obvious left trending corner which graces the centre of the wall.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

23Mixed 30m, 2
4 High On The Hill 18Trad 40m

1.11. HB Wall 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Power Of Curry 17Trad 22m
2 Thesiger 10Trad 45m
3 The Chinstrap Gobbler

Climb the right leading sickle/crack on the steep orange wall to the left of Thesinger. The top of the climb is equipped with chains for descent. Can be climbed with a full set of standard rocks.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011

27Trad 30m
4 Underwhelmed 14Trad 47m

1.12. Dead Explorers Slab 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 What's The Point Of Going Climbing If You Don't Like Ti-Tree? 10Trad 45m
2 Lassiter 13Trad 61m
3 Leichardt 10Trad 65m

1.13. Ruined Castle 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.222114, -37.357886

Description:© (nmonteith)

One of the best sport crags for the medium grade climber. A multi-tiered cave of superb bulging orange rock with exposure to boot! The novelty of the awesome belay ledges and the via ferrata make a particularly memorable day out. You'll need to climb two pitches to make it up to the really good stuff on the third tier.

This cliff is blessed with shade and cooling breezes until 3pm in summer. It overhangs enough that light drizzle is not much of a problem. In heavy rain go elsewhere.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From start of 'Tortoise Wall' walk-in (the carpark at the water works) cross creek to the north side then walk up the side of the creek following cairns that lead steeply up ridge to arrive below crag about 20m left of Tigers Mitre's Central Organ. Heavy duty footwear is recommended as it is steep and very rough. All routes are described from left to right and from bottom to top! It is a complex area so refer to the photo topo for more detail.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jungle Jellies

Right facing jam crack then bulging orange wall and finger crack crux. Finish up easy wall above to rap anchors on ledge. Bring a full rack of wires and a few medium cams.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

23Trad 20m
2 Fruit Punch

Left facing blank corner then bulging face above with crazy fist jam crux in pocket. A bit dirty. Crux can be avoided by climbing right into 'Forbidden Fruits' at grade 23. Six bolts and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

24Sport 17m, 6
3 * Forbidden Fruits

Sustained reachy pockets up wall just right of 'Fruit Punch'. A fantastic warm-up for the upper tier routes. Five FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

20Sport 17m, 5
4 Winter Solstice

Starts below a jagged flake on the right end of the wall. Climb small right-facing corner to flake, then around right to finish up slab. Walk off left or rap from tree.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, 1997

14Trad 25m
5 Legends Of The Fall

Surprisingly good for a wide crack. Climb the major corner on the right side of the recessed wall.

FA: Kym Sinclair, Sharyn George, Geoff Butcher, 1997

13Trad 10m
6 The First Crusade Pitch 1

The easiest sport route in the Grampians? This is the sport climbers approach pitch to the upper tiers of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'. Five FHs up slabby marbled wall. Belay off bolt anchor at back of ledge.

Start: Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson

15Sport 20m, 5
7 * A Good Day Out

Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge.

FA: Greg Caire, Tanya Freeman, Geoff Butcher , 1997

17Trad 30m
8 A Good Day Out Direct Finish

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

17Trad 30m
9 Spent

FFA: 2006

20Sport 5
10 * Carcazonz Crack

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2006

17Trad 35m
11 Slow Roasted Piggy

Easiest line up through the second tier. Awkward mantle onto ledge then up steep weakness in left side of roof. Ramble up choss to top. Four FHs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2006

19Sport 20m, 4
12 * The First Crusade Pitch 2

Steep thugging then easy wall. 7 FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

23Sport 20m, 7
13 Growling Dog 26Sport 14m, 5
14 ** Game of Thrones

Start Up Blood letter to the third bolt then head straight up past 3 more fixed hangers to a double bolt belay on a ledge.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Ross Taylor, 2012

24Sport 15m, 6
15 ** Blood Letter

Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier. Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

24Sport 17m, 8
16 Alexius

Very reachy crux. Starts at the right edge of the second tier at juggy rib. Up this for 3m then swing left onto hanging wall and jug up onto face. Easily up slab to finish as for 'Blood Letter'. Inconsistent.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

21Sport 16m, 5
17 Flanked

Start on rib as for 'Alexius' but continue up this with wide crack on the left. When it gets a bit tricky step right slightly and up horizontals to ledge. Step left off ledge back onto wall and up this for 8m to big ledge and belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2007

15Trad 25m
18 * War Horse

Outrageous positions up the crazy giant plates on the left side of the ledge. Finish up headwall (out of sight of the belayer). 7 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mark Gould, 2006

24Sport 19m, 7
19 ** Siege Machine

Straight up the guts of the steepest tallest bit of the crag with some very creative moves in the middle. Slopers, jugs and then final killer headwall. Use a sling on the fifth bolt to avoid the rope cutting plate.

Start: Starts 4m left of The First Crusade.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

26Sport 20m, 7
20 *** Jerusalem

Unrelenting steepness. Start at the impressive pillar of prehistoric birdpoo. Scuttle left and out through roof and up endless jugs and steepness above past a few giant heucos. 6 FHs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2006

24Sport 17m, 6
21 ** The First Crusade Pitch 3

Superb orange scoop with tricky roof start. Starts directly above rap rings. 7 bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

23Sport 17m, 7
22 *** Christendom

Brilliant. A easier variant start to The First Crusade that eliminates the brutal roof. Start up heucos on the left edge of the right wall then trend left to join into TFC at its 4th bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith

22Sport 17m
23 ** Emphysema

Probably hard 24 but we couldn't give 'another' route at this crag grade 24. The direct line between First Crusade Pitch 3 and 'Catapult'. Start as for 'Christendom' but instead of traversing off left keeping cranking up the direct line. Quite sustained in the upper half. Six FHs and loweroff.

FA: Neil Monteith & Tim Storey, 2007

25Sport 15m, 6
24 ** Catapult

Dyno!

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

24Sport 15m, 5
25 * Nicaea

Nice orange bulges - but a shabby first few metres. 4 FH's.

Start: Starts on the far right of the wall at end of fixed rope.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

21Sport 15m, 5
26 Falconer unbolted Project (Neil)

Far right of third tier. Needs bolts.

21Trad 14m
27 * The First Crusade Pitch 4

Short but sweet face pitch right on the top of the crag! 3 FHs and single bolt lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

20Sport 8m, 3
28 * Possum Police

Climb corner as for 'Winter Solstice' then move left under bulge. Continue straight up wall on pockets, then upper wall on small edges to ledge.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Sharyn George, Kym Sinclair, 1997

17Trad 25m
29 A Northern Pharos Kitten

Cute. Start right of Tiger Mitre's etc, 2m left Legend Of 'The Fall'. Climb small right facing corner to overlap, step left then up to tree. Rap off tree.

FA: Greg Caire, Geoff Butcher, Tanya Freeman, 1997

20Trad 20m
30 Short Sharp Shock

Steeper and nicer than it looks. Climb the obvious steep, short crack 2m right of Legends Of the Fall to ledge.

FA: Greg Caire, Tanya Freeman, 1997

20Trad 15m
31 * The Knights Templar

Enjoyable, interesting trad climbing and a nice way to get to the 3rd tier. Starts 1m left of Carcassonne and Cassoulet at undercut left leading crack. Pull on and head left up nice crack with decent gear and better holds than expected. Mantle to reach large ledge at about 12m, then move right over Carcassonee and Cassoulet past bush and traverse easily (without any gear past the bush) to the base of the 3rd tier. Be wary of choss near the end.

FA: Josef Goding, Achim Gross, 2007

18Trad 22m
32 The Shortest Day

20m right of 'A Good Day Out'. Climb nice looking crack 3m left of 'Gorker' to under overlap. Exit left. Rap from tree.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, Sharyn George, 1997

16Trad 25m
33 Unknown

Quick way to the top if you have a trad rack!

FA: Pete Donald & Jackie Colhan, 2006

7Trad 10m
34 Carcassonne And Cassoulet

Two pitches of trad adventure squeezed into between the foreboding caves of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts at polished yellow handcrack at left end of the Second Tier overhangs. Belay in cave halfway up. Step right then up wide layback crack to roof. Traverse out left to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2006

17Trad 35m

1.14. Out to Lunch Wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.222461, -37.359016

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Tiger Mitre's Central Organ

Meaty. In the centre of the wall is an appealing Arapilisean flake crack. Follow this to where it almost joins the shallow corner on the left. Continue right and up to terrace. Be careful of hollow flake in the middle.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Woodfield, 1991

18Trad 20m
2 * Gorker

The first obvious line on the compact wall left of The Snack bar. Climb small orange corner moving left at bulge. Continue up shallow grey corner.

FA: Michael Hampton, 1991

17Trad 25m
3 ** Completely Out to Lunch

Takes centre of orange wall.

  1. 15m (-) Up flake-line left of "In Praise Of Idleness" to ledge.

  2. 25m (27) Up centre of overhanging wall, veering right, then left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks (alt), 1991

27Trad 40m
4 Alice's Restaurant

Takes roof line at left end of stunning orange wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks (alt), 1991

19Trad 30m
5 * In Praise Of Idleness

Start: Start at the crack in the middle of the wall.

  1. 15m (22) Up crack, moving left 3 metres to belay on lower of two ledges.

  2. 25m (-) Mooch of diagonally left rather than tackle "Completely Out To Lunch" and rap off gumtree.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day (alt), 1991

22Trad 40m

1.15. The Snack Bar 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Muffin Man

Climb just right of the pale water streak. Continue up arete left of black corner, moving right ot awkward finish above corner. Rap from tree as for "Stretchmate"

Start: Start directly below the right end of the red wall.

FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw, 1991

15Trad 42m
2 Slap & Tickle

Pocketed face right of prominent corner above platform hakfway along wall.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton, 1991

21Trad 18m
3 The Bagman

Wall right of "Slap & Tickle". Steeply up and right, then up on good holds.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton, 1991

17Trad 15m
4 Bulgy Face (project) 25Trad 18m
5 Stretchmate

Follow the crack until it becomes a gully then move right and climb the front of the easy buttress. Rap off trees.

Start: At the right end of "The Snack Bar" is an obvious crack.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Woodfield, 1991

16Trad 45m

1.16. Tortoise Wall 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.221547, -37.359565

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Zaphod Beeblerox

The large corner system right of the orange wall. Start below twin corners that lead up to the terrace below the main corner.

  1. 20m (-) Take either of twin corners to terrace. The left-hand is easier and nicer.

  2. 35m (21) Climb out the overhang and up into the line, pausing only to hang off your third arm and remove your pullover.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kevin Lindorff (alt) and Kieran Loughran. Loughran and Watling previously climbed the initial corner in., 1981

21Trad 55m
2 Done To (Golden) Darth

Climb the weakness to the overhang and move right to the arete. Up to ledge and walk off.

Start: At the left-hand side of the wall is an orange recess. This climb was originally called 'Golden Gaytime'.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Woodfield, 1991

18Trad 25m
3 Me Old Mate Darth

Bold, with a crux close to the ground with a nearby tree ready to puncture your kidneys.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1983

23 RTrad 35m
4 You're Busted

Seamed corner right of "Me Old Mate Darth", then wall to overlap. Step right onto slabby dish and up.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton, 1991

24Trad 30m
5 * Aimless Blade

Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left side of cliff.

  1. 15m (16) Climb the flake and move up to a tree.

  2. 30m (14) Step left and up thin cracks. Step right to a break in the overhang, pull over and go up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Gary Wills, 1981

16Trad 45m
6 Hot Cross

Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree.

Start: Start about 25 metres right of "Aimless Blade" ata wide crack.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman Easter, 1988

17Trad 25m
7 * Little Escapes

Obvious orange corner starting off a ledge, just a few metres right of "Hot Cross".

FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Watling, 1981

16Trad 35m
8 * The Voyage of Vascopyjama

A whimsical journey. Start 3 metres right of "Little Escapes" at a thin line just left of arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger, 1985

17Trad 35m
9 Have I Ever Told You

Enjoyable. Start just right of Vasco below a crack.

FA: Meg Sleeman, Kieran Loughran, 1988

12Trad 35m
10 Just In Passing

Bold in parts but escapable.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Have I Ever Told You", 2 metres left of the head of the gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger, 1985

22 RTrad 40m
11 * Soft SheIl

Thrilling pitch at head of descent gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips, Stephen Burke. Easter, 1985

16Trad 35m
12 Hatehakea

Juggy wall just left of the creek.

FA: Michael Hampton, Jeff Robertson, Rhyl Shaw, 2000

8Trad 30m
13 * The Boys That Were Naughty

An entertaining problem with an exciting finish; cruelly stolen from Ferret.

Start: Start at the steep flake on the left side of the overhanging wall left of the obvious chimney/cleft.

FA: Simon Mentz, James Falla, 1989

24Trad 15m
14 ** Bad Boys

Demanding route up overhanging wall right of "The Boys That Were Naughty". Boulder to or stick-clip first bolt. One of the bolts is actually a peg; probably should be replaced with a bolt.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1994

26Sport 15m, 6
15 Up Through the Down Door

Somewhat contrived.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Stuart Imer, 1991

24Trad 15m
16 Turtle Diary

Not the most appealing route here. Thin seam at edge of chimney cleft, 2 metres left of "Tortology" until it meets the cleft. Heave around right and up.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christine Freestone, 1993

21Trad 15m
17 ** Tortology

Quite thin climbing up a steely-grey "slab". Take lots of small wires.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, 1983

23Trad 25m
18 ** Tortoise

The vague arete 6 metres right of the chimney-cleft. Originally done as two pitches but pitch two is rarely repeated and is described separately ("Turning Turtle") There is a rap anchor above YTTDF

FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills, 1981

20Trad 50m
19 ** Yurtle the Turtle

Sustained and intricate climbing on the immaculate wall right of "Tortoise".

FA: James Falla, Simon Mentz, 1989

25Mixed 25m, 1
20 *** Yurtle the Turtle Direct Finish

Used to be graded 27, it is probably easy for 26. The obvious finish to this great route. Instead of veering off left after the first bolt continue straight up past a second bolt. Both bolts are new (2012) and there is a rap anchor above.

FA: Steve Monks, 1993

26Mixed 25m, 2
21 Snail

Good first pitch but not much known about second pitch.

Start: Start at short chimney with rotten chockstone right of the smooth wall.

  1. 25m (19) Up onto rotten chockstone and take left-hand line to terrace.

  2. 25m (19) Move up right and climb diagonal crack-line.

FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills, 1981

19Trad 50m
22 * Slug

Again, a good first pitch and vaguely described second pitch. Start at the chimney as for "Snail".

  1. 25m (18) Onto the rotten chockstone and take right-hand line to terrace.

  2. 25m (18) Up a series of walls to the top.

FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills, 1981

18Trad 50m
23 * Everything's on Fire

Gain the right-leading flake by a traverse left from the easy ramp. Up the line and exit vertically to the belay ledge.

Start: Start 8 metres right of "Slug"

FA: Kieran Loughran, Stephen Bourke, Heather Phillips. Easter, 1985

20Trad 25m
24 * Floaties

A very fine pitch. The unpopular second pitch is written up separately.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Kevin Lindorff, 1983

20Trad 40m
25 Floaties Part II

The original second pitch of "Floaties" is much harder than the first and is not popular though it's not too bad. Start on the ledge a few metres right of the belay on "Floaties", beneath the right-hand end of the roofs. There used to be a stump hereabouts.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, 1983

22Trad 25m
26 An Other

Contrived route with some bolts just right of "Tortoise".

FA: Geoff Little, 2000

23Trad 25m
27 Turning Turtle

This is the rarely done second pitch of "Tortoise"

Start: Start at the belay at the top of "Tortoise".

FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills, 1981

20Trad 25m

1.17. Cloggy 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (jgoding)

Big 100m wall tucked high in the back of the valley opposite 'Death March Wall'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Good Soldier

Pleasant.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1980

12Trad 40m
2 Black Marsupial Lion As An Established Rumour

Climb the arete 2 metres right of the corner for 15 metres to a small overhang. Move right beneath this overhang for 3 metres then climb the wall to the top.

Start: Start just up the slope from "The Good Soldier".

FA: Peter Treby, Andrew Walker, 1982

15Trad 35m
3 * Lighting

Nice climbing.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Cunningham, Kieran Loughran, 1980

14 RTrad 30m
4 Roobarb

Steep but with big holds.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watling, 1980

14Trad 25m
5 * Cataract Corner

The big corner on the right side of "Ripple Wall", some distance right of the other climbs.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling (alt), 1987

12Trad 61m
6 The Late Show

Unattractive and serious. Start a few metres right of "Sunset Groove" ata short flake-chimney just right of the boulder.

  1. 46m (14) Up the edge of the flake. Bridge back left to the bulging wall and up into the wide groove. When the groove divides, take the left-hand fork.

  2. 18m (-) Continue up the groove and then up the right side of the summit block.

FA: Peter Watling, Alan Hope, 1982

14 RTrad 64m
7 Sunset Groove

Climbing on unusual rock up the most prominent groove on "Ripple Wall", starting near a large boulder that almost blocks the ledge.

  1. 50m (11) Up the groove to belay behind the pinnacle.

  2. 20m (11) Up the arete.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Cunningham (alt), 1980

11Trad 70m
8 Breach Of Promise

A sombre cleft.

Start: Start at the chimney-gully marking the right side of the "Maiden Ecstasy" wall.

  1. 35m (14) 'Gully' to a terrace.

  2. 20m (14) Move right a little then hand-traverse back left into the line and follow it to a ledge.

  3. 40m (14) The chimney to a resting place.

  4. 40m (-) Step right to the arete and go up.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Dave Gairns, Gordon Talbett (alt), 1979

14Trad 140m
9 ** Maiden Ecstasy

Despite a name worthy of Baxter, this is a very good, sustained and atmospheric climb.

Start: Start at a boulder below a steep wall a metre or two right of "Dur Hardder Direct"

  1. 30m (18) Step off boulder and go straight up steep wall to an overhang near the left arete. Traverse 8 metres right then diagonally right to small stance.

  2. 25m (19) Step left and climb up leftwards through the overhang, heading for a massive bollard. From the bollard continue right up a corner.

  3. 20m (-) On up the corner for 5 metres then go up.

  4. 25m (-) Up

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var), 1978

19Trad 100m
10 * The Great Wall

Good climbing directly up the middle of the steep rock.

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Maiden Ecstasy".

  1. 30m (22) Up to an undercling at 5 metres, reach right and up groove until it joins "Maiden Ecstasy" and up to belay as for that climb.

  2. 50m (22) Go straight up. When it steepens, tend right through a series of overhangs. Then the headwall to the ridge. To descend either scramble down the ridge and abseil off a bollard or continue easily to the top.

FA: Steve Monks and Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1991

22Trad 80m
11 * Dur Hardder Direct

Enjoyable and quite exposed.

Start: Start a few metres right of "The Wayfarer" at a crack leading to an arete at 7 metres.

  1. 67m (10) Climb crack to arete and follow arete for 60 metres.

  2. 55m (10) Move right on the wall and go up.

FA: Peter Cunningham, John Van Der Leest (alt), 1978

10Trad 120m
12 The Wayfarer

Start: Start on the left wall of the big central chimney.

  1. 50m (8) Up the corner for a rope-length.

  2. 50m (8) Go left to the front of the buttress and up for another 50 metres.

  3. 30m (8) Climb the right arete to a big ledge.

  4. 30m (8) A chimney on the left leads through the overhang then up a smooth slab to more jugs.

FA: Peter Watling, Keith Egerton (alt), 1978

8Trad 160m
13 Billy Pilgrim

Exciting and a bit loose up the crack on the right-hand side of the crag just right and uphill from "Slaughterhouse 5"

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips. Easter, 1982

17Trad 40m
14 Slaughterhouse 5

Intricate.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Breakfast Of Champions". There may be the remains of a cairn.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips. Easter, 1982

16Trad 35m
15 Breakfast Of Champions

Technical laybacking.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips. Esater, 1982

17Trad 35m
16 Player Piano

The left-hand crack system

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips. Esater, 1982

18Trad 30m
17 Free And Easy

A rather irrelevant climb taking the centre of the smoothest part of the slab just right of the big corner. The bulges are avoided by diverging into the corner at those points.

FA: Peter Watling, Alan Hope, 1982

7Trad 110m
18 * Cricklewood Rainbow

A fun experience on an easy arete high on the hillside.

  1. 40m (11) Start at the very toe of the slab. The start is tricky then things ease to a large terrace.

  2. 46m (8) From the terrace continue up the left arete of the corner until just below the bulge that runs across the face.

  3. 30m (11) Climb the bulge via a crack on the left then step back right to the arete and continue to the top.

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Watling, Kieran Loughran (alt), 1978

11Trad 120m
19 The Great Slab

Doddle city up the slab left of the big corner.

Climb the slab just left of "Cricklewood Rainbow" pitch 2 to the bulge. Step right and climb the wall 2 metres left of a crack and continue up a corner. Finish up a thin crack on the right wall.

FA: Peter Treby, Peter Watling (alt), 1978

8Trad 75m

1.18. The Arches 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Texas

There is a weakness at the right end of the arch leading to a hanging corner. A few metres up left from the lowest point of the wall, a narrow ramp cuts steeply up right.

It would probably be safer to combine the first two pitches.

  1. 27m (17) Climb the ramp until about 3 metres below an overlap. Exposed traverse right for 7 metres then launch up and right to a hanging belay (many cams and strong nerves for belay) under the arch below the hanging belay

  2. 10m (-) Pull around arch into a hanging corner. Move up to an overlap and make a wide step left to the arete. Continue up to a stance.

  3. 28m (-) A curving flake crack leads diagonally right and up. Continue steeply to a big ledge.

  4. 35m (-) Roped scrambling up the final buttress avoids the surrounding heinous scrub.

FA: John Sanders, Gordon Talbett (var) and Peter Watling, 1991

17 RTrad 100m
2 Highspeed Mad

Climb the steep groove on the left and then follow cracks up the slab to the right-hand end of the overlap. Exciting moves left lead to a bottomless corner which is followed to the top.

Start: Start at the toe of the right-hand buttress.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Peter Watling, 1991

13Trad 40m

1.19. Gilham's Crags 99 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.216817, -37.360478

Description:© (jgoding)

A collection of 'Arapiles' quality bulging orange buttresses and craglets scattered along a ridgeline. Routes are usually a mix of trad and bolts, and are a little 'old wave' in style (ie slick cracks!). 'Red Rain' Wall is the standout for quality but the are some other good routes here too.

Approach:© (jgoding)

At the start of the Death March Track near the south end of the waterworks track.

The walk in is around 10-15mins to the left end of Schmitt Block. The track is loose and steep so watch out for rolled ankles!

Walk around right (between 3-10mins) for all areas except Sports Wall (about 5mins further up the main track) and War Wall (a 3m steep scramble below Sportz wall on the left).

1.19.1. Goat Crag 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Never Too Fat to Slap 20Trad 18m
2 Goats Head Soup 21Trad 18m
3 * Here Comes the Storm 27Trad 22m
4 Hippy Chick 12Trad 20m
5 Tickets Please 17Trad 18m
6 One Man Show 12Trad 18m
7 Nest Eggs 20Trad 18m
8 * Slap and Tickie 19Trad 18m
9 ** Golden Ghetto Greper 19Trad 18m
10 Bulbous Bellies 16Trad 18m
11 Fizzio's Fizickle 13Trad 20m

1.19.2. Shady Gully 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Falcon's Anxiety 19Trad 20m
2 Falcon's Anxiety Variant Start 12Trad 8m
3 Three Little Piggies 22Trad 18m
4 Locusts 18Trad 15m
5 Tea And Snags 16Trad 10m

1.19.3. Schmitt Block 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Lethargic Liver 17Trad 18m
2 Two Slobs on a Slab 14Trad 20m
3 Head Over Heels 16Trad 22m
4 ** The Final Edition 15Trad 20m

1.19.4. Smoke Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fun Factor 16Trad 18m
2 Sniffing The White Owl 21Trad 18m
3 Not With It 10Trad 18m
4 Chewing Gum

A complete waste of time.

Start: on the left side of the orange wall is a short crack. (4m left of smoking is a health hazard.

FA: Peter Watling, Ceri Law, 1979

10Trad 30m
5 Smoking is a Health Hazard

thin

Start: 4m right of "chewing gum" and a few meters left of "A burnt out case".

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 1984

21Trad 25m
6 * A Burnt Out Case

good.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Kevin Lindorff, 1984

18Trad 25m
7 Blown Away 22Trad 20m
8 * But I Didn't Inhale

Directly under the Rap anchor on Smoke Wall

Start: Start on pockets up to bolts & crack system to Rap anchor

FA: rob booth , steve chapman

23Mixed 18m, 4
9 ** Do You Mind if l Smoke?

The best route in the area of it's grade.

Start: starts 4m right of "A burnt out case" at small roof/overlap (about 3m off the ground).

FA: Terry Tremble, Kieran Loughran, Paul Vlahovic, 1984

19Trad 20m
10 * Purple Rain

good line, pity about the poor rock quality and fiddly/crap protection. Not worth a star in my opinion.

Start: About 4-5m right up the arete (start off the big boulder to it's right).

18Trad 20m

1.19.5. Red Rain Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 L'Access

just a way of getting above 'Red Wall'

Start: far left side of the wall

FA: Stuart Imer, Lisa Imer, 1990

8Trad 30m
2 ** Cloud Nine

A dam fine route which sees a lot of wingers off the crux move.

Start: Starts from the blocks left of the cave on the L side of 'Red Rain' Wall.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Glenn Tempest, 1990

22Trad 30m
3 * Welsh Grabbit

Must be ok. Someone thinks this is worth a star.

FA: Glen Tempest, Huw Lewis, Alistair Mark, Edwin Young, 1990

24Trad 25m
4 * Greasy Kiwi

Unlikely

FA: Glen Tempest, Alistair Mark, 1991

24Trad 30m
5 *** Red Rain

One of the best.

Start: Start just left of center of the main wall

FA: Glen Tempest, 1990

26Trad 35m
6 ** Imminent Thunder

Spectacular with outrageous situations

Start: A few metres left of \

  1. 30m (24) Pull onto shelf and traverse left to blocks. Up to stance. Into shallow hanging corner (BR). Continue up and right (RB) to traverse line of

  2. 15m (23) Up and left (BR). Pull straight up at incut jug, then step left and finish on terrace.

FA: Glen Tempest, Stephen Hamilton, 1990

24Trad 45m
7 ** Pluvius

Dramatic climbing on stunning rock

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

26Trad 30m
8 * I Hear the Rain

Climb the leaning corner to a roof. Scary moves gain the lip of the roof. Hand traverse left to a shallow corner and pull up for a rest. finish easily.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loiughran, Louise Shepherd, 1984

23Trad 35m
9 * Something Is Out There 22Trad 40m
10 Saddam Who Sucks 22Trad 10m
11 Invasion USA 17Trad 10m
12 The Twinkie 16Trad 10m
13 Moving Right Along 15Trad 10m
14 I Nose The Nose 19Trad 10m

1.19.6. Hypokinesic Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rhythm Pigs 9Trad 25m
2 * Hypokinesic 12Trad 25m
3 ** Leaps and Bounds 24Trad 25m
4 * Someone Keeps Moving My Chair 23Trad 25m
5 * Restless 20Trad 60m
6 Sticky Fingers 17Trad 35m
7 Sticky Fingers Variant Start 12Trad 10m

1.19.7. Thylacine Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Carnivore 23Trad 40m
2 * Touching the Tiger 24Trad 35m
3 George Bush 20Trad 35m
4 Hierschel Heroines 18Trad 25m

1.19.8. Trans-Tasman Gully 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pumping Mutton 24Trad 15m

1.19.9. Sportz Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sportz & All 25Trad 18m
2 Athletes Foot 18Trad 12m
3 * Spoil Sportz 25Sport 18m
4 * Licorice All Sportz 24Sport 18m
5 Sporting Chance 24Sport 15m
6 Sporting Aces 15Trad 20m

1.19.10. War Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The War Is Over 12Trad 20m
2 What's So Funny Bout Peace Love And Understanding? 21Trad 22m
3 What's So Funny Bout Peace Love And Understanding? Variant Start 18Trad
4 What's So Funny Bout Peace Love And Understanding? Variant Finish 19Trad 11m
5 * G.I. Joe 21Trad 22m
6 ** Stalingrad 24Trad 23m
7 * Desert Storm 23Trad 23m
8 * Andy Warwall 24Trad 25m

1.19.11. Patriot Pinnacle 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Martyr's Life 15Trad 15m
2 Scared Stiff 16Trad 20m
3 Bad Influence 18Trad 35m

1.19.12. Fat Boys Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fat Boys Can't Dyno 19Trad 12m

1.19.13. Begegnung Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.215998, -37.361676

Description:

About 300m further along from 'Rain Wall' (just before the creek) is a lovely looking 40m high yellow/orange wall capped with a big roof.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Never Stop Gibbin'

Great thin technical face climbing.

Start: About 2m left of "Begegnung". Tricky layback start, then delicatly up face past 5 U-bolts to horizontal, mantle (can protect with .75 cam and long draw) then traverse right to belay/rap station.

FA: Naomi Gibbs, 2008

21Trad 20m
2 Mum's Route (Never Stop Gibbin' Direct)

Direct finish left and up to chains. Great climbing.

23Sport 30m
3 15 Years On

Up the corner and face to the horizontal break. Traverse right to belay as for "Begegnung"

Start: Start 6 metres left of "Begegnung"

FA: Glenn Donohue, Mark Poustie, 1995

16Trad 26m
4 Begegnung

Nice line, nice climbing. Good rock. Retro-bolted accidentally.

FA: Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders, Glenn Donahue, Russel Paul, 1980

17Mixed 20m, 1
5 * Retro-futurism

A continuation to Begegnung

  1. 20m (17) Up Begegnung to rap station on ledge.

  2. 15m (3) Walk right (facing the cliff) on ledge and up to terrace.

  3. 15m (20) Blast steeply up the left side of the juggy steep face passing two amazing (yet to be done) left traverses about 2m apart (vertically). Belay at ledge. A rap station here would be useful.

FA: Josef Goding, Naomi Gibbs, Scott Ambridge, 2007

20Trad 50m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 ** Chess Nerds Unite

An unlikely line that features a fierce crux at the end.

Start: Start as for 'Begenung'

FA: Mark Gould, Ross Taylor, 2008

24Mixed 30m, 1
7 ** Proprioception Lost

Tricky climbing up an overhanging seam, with a good measure of dynos and technique required. Joins CNU for a few moves before finishing up arete, no. 1or 2 camalot required.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2012

27Sport 15m, 5
8 * Don't Make a Monster of Your Mind

Starts in cave where cliff meets the little creek, and climbs the steep wall just left of arete. A brutal jump start off a crimp (add a rock if you are short), leads into some enjoyable wrestling and technical finish.

FA: Ross Taylor, 2009

27Sport 15m, 6
9 Physical therapy

Good technical face climbing up to and through a shallow corner. Start off big block 10m right and around corner from DMAMOYM . Follow ring bolts.

FFA: Catherine de Vaus, Adam Demmert, 2012

21Sport 10m, 4
10 9 out of 10 ain't bad

Start of same boulder as PT. Surprisingly continuous climbing heading up and right with a tricky crux.

FFA: James Scott-Bohanna, Catherine de Vaus, Adam Demmert, 2012

21Sport 12m, 5
11 7 of 9 is Lovely

Start down right of 9 oo 10 in creek bed. Follow 3 FHs to join 2nd FH of 9 oo 10

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2013

21Sport 15m, 7
12 Borg

Start up 1st 2 FHs of 7 of 9. Traverse right up past 3 FHs to join 9 oo 10 at its 4th FH

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2013

25Sport 15m, 7
13 Drop Of The Watch 10Trad 15m
14 Something New 15Trad 20m
15 Don't Be Denied 19Trad 12m
16 Stuck Up 12Trad 20m
17 Shellgrit 10Trad 10m

1.19.14. The Chilly Bin 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.216549, -37.362018

Description:

A wall 50 metres up and around the end of Begenung Wall, provisionally called the Chilly Bin. The Chilly Bin faces due south, meaning it is the perfect crag in summer and has a lovely little creek running along its base. The routes all feature nice technical face climbing.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mitra e Bello

The machine gun is beautiful. MThe left most route on the wall starts from the ledge above the waterfall and climbs up past four or five FHs and a couple of small cams, tending left from the dyke to the anchor at the top.

FA: Ross Taylor, Mark Gould, 2008

24Trad 20m
2 * Mitra e Bello/The Gloaming Direct link up

Takes in the cruxes of both routes. Start up MeB at the dike move into TGD.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2009

25Trad 30m
3 * The Gloaming

Starts in the middle of the wall off a big rock. Up past a FH, to another FH in the dyke, left to the next FH (still in the dyke), then move up and left past three more FHs and the anchor of 'Mitra e Bello'.

FA: Ross Taylor, Mark Gould, 2008

24Sport 20m
4 ** The Gloaming Direct

The best route on the wall? At the fourth FH on the Gloaming, instead of going left, go straight up past three more FHs, once on the steep headwall, head right on cams to an anchor.

FA: Ross Taylor, Mark Gould, 2008

25Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** Sleazy Slimpers

Start as for 'The Gloaming'. At the second bolt head directly up past a RB sleazing your way past many slimpers to a thin seam 2RB. At top of seam head left, RB and up to hit the major break. At the break continue to head left and then up through the steeper rock passing the pocket of love and 3 more RB, to a double u bolt anchor.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2012

27Sport 30m, 9
6 * Sultry Slots

3 meters right of Gloaming, straight up via 4 fixed hangers, then clip the next 2 RB bolts on Sleazy Slimpers slightly left, then back right past another fixed hanger, to finish up gloaming direct - trending left and then up steep head wall on cams to double bolt anchor.

FFA: Mark Gould, 2012

25Sport 30m, 7
7 ** Fingering the Dyke

The best line on the wall. Starts at the right end of the obvious dyke and follows it all the way back left, finishing at the anchor of 'Mitra e Bello'. Take a number three rock or one camalot for between the second and third bolts. You also need a couple of small cams for the last section.

FA: Mark Gould, Ross Taylor, 2008

23Trad 30m
8 The Monstrous Regiment of Women

Ignore the red tape. A bit unlikely. Start at the same spot as 'Fingering the Dyke', but blast straight up past three FHs and natural gear to anchor at top. Might be harder than 24 for shorties.

FA: Ross Taylor, 2008

24Trad 30m

1.20. The Breach 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.218388, -37.362688

1.20.1. Left Wall 16 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mrs Miggin's Pie Shop 18Trad 40m
2 Whippersnipper 17Trad 40m
3 ** White Pointer 21Trad 40m
4 ** Flashman 23Trad 35m
5 ** Oranges and Lemons 22Trad 35m
6 Black & Tan 21Trad 18m
7 When the Levee Breaks 20Trad 18m
8 Metal Edged 24Trad 30m
9 Still Cranking After All These Years 22Trad 22m
10 ** Greystrokes 21Trad 30m
11 Coldilocks and the Three Brrs 18Trad 26m
12 Reach the Breach 22Trad 18m
13 * Pulling on Diamonds 25Trad 22m
14 The Cut Runs Deep 19Trad 22m
15 * Grey Ghosts 24Trad 22m
16 * Living in the Seventies 20Trad 20m

1.20.2. Right Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Feeding Frenzy 21Trad 17m
2 Pillow Talk 16Trad 15m
3 Speargunna 6Trad 8m
4 Naval Salute 14Trad 12m
5 Coxcomb 21Trad 17m
6 Burns On Tender Flesh 18Trad 18m
7 Barbaqery 20Trad 18m
8 * Fisherman's Basket 23Trad 18m
9 ** Hammerhead 21Trad 18m
10 * China Beach 24Trad 20m
11 China Beach Variant Start 21Trad
12 Role Reversal 18Trad 16m

1.21. Renaissance Walls 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

1.21.1. Back Buttress 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Orlando 7Trad 15m
2 Crescent Footpad 7Trad 15m

1.21.2. The Lower Cliff 26 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leonardo 15Trad 25m
2 * Pavane 11Trad 25m
3 In Praise Of Folly 7Trad 25m
4 Pure Folly 6Trad 17m
5 Cardinal Sin 11Trad 21m
6 Frightened Mew 12Trad 21m
7 Diet Of Worms 7Trad 21m
8 Nobody Loves Me 7Trad 21m
9 Everybody Hates Me 7Trad 17m
10 Cod-Pieces And Tights 5Trad 18m
11 Papal Bull 5Trad 18m
12 Shroud Of Turn 6Trad 18m
13 Vatican Rag 7Trad 18m
14 Pilastered Again 9Trad 5m
15 Pinups Of Bosch 14Trad 8m
16 Leaning Tower Of Pisa 19Trad 18m
17 Galileo's Balls 19Trad 18m
18 * Papal Funk 16Trad 18m
19 * Cistern Chapel 12Trad 18m
20 * Flow My Tears 11Trad 17m
21 Hilliard 9Trad 17m
22 Lachrimae 10Trad 17m
23 Impetuous Youth 10Trad 14m
24 Escher 7Trad 14m
25 Spanish Gold 11Trad 10m
26 Little Gem 8Trad 10m

1.21.3. The Upper Cliff 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quite Hard In Plimsolls 15Trad 22m
2 (Unnamed 1) 19 M0Aid 15m
3 Galileo 14Trad 28m
4 Copernicus 16Trad 40m
5 Copernicus Eliminate 12Trad 15m
6 * Dawn Of Perspective 15Trad 40m
7 Kepler 12Trad 40m
8 Harmonia Mundi 12Trad 40m
9 Empyrean 10Trad 40m
10 Middle Ages? What Middle Ages? 13Trad 40m
11 Botticelli's Angels 20 M0Aid 25m
12 * Elysium 10Trad 31m
13 Elysium Variant Start 14Trad 8m
14 Il Paradiso 6Trad 28m
15 Fugger 4Trad 28m
16 * Arcadia 6Trad 28m
17 Quintessence 6Trad 28m
18 Landschnechts In Lycra 4Trad 25m
19 Janissaries In The Gym 9Trad 23m
20 Beauty Without Cruelty 16Trad 15m
21 The Fur People 4Trad 15m
22 Green Furry Cassock 4Trad 12m

1.22. Death March Wall 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Urchin

An easy crack at teh right-hand end of the cliff.

FA: Peter Watling, 1978

6Trad 15m
2 Small

Arete and wall 3 metres left of "Urchin" and crawl through a slot. Now slab on left.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1980

5Trad 20m
3 Robert Bruce

Crack system 4 metres left of "Small" to an easy slab.

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Cunningham, 1978

17Trad 30m
4 Frumpy Old Women

The crack 1 metre left of "Robert Bruce" and buttress above.

FA: Bede Harrington, Jill Wilson, 1990

16Trad 30m
5 No Head For Heights

The route "Charles Atlas" (SWG ICG) is almost certainly a repeat of this climb.

Start: Start up the slabby diagonal line just left of "Robert Bruce".

FA: Peter Cunningham, M.Spence, Keith Egerton, 1978

18Trad 30m
6 ** Layback and Enjoy lt

Lovely line on beautiful rock.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1978

18Trad 35m
7 Charles Atlas 16Trad 30m
8 Grappelli

One hard move.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Keith Egerton, Peter Watling, 1978

18Trad 30m
9 Reinhardt

Another hard move.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, Keith Egerton, 1978

18Trad 30m
10 The Hot Club

Nice line but contrived climbing.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Neil Barr, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, Keith Egerton. Easter, 1980

20Trad 10m
11 Trial Balance

The crack 3 metres left of "The Hot Club" to a ledge. Finish up a corner on the right.

FA: Stephen Abbott, Iain Sedgman, Gabrielle Pellissier, 1978

9Trad 30m
12 Wheelchair Slalom

Easy chimney 3 metres left of "Trial Balance".

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

4Trad 30m
13 Icon

Centre of rib 1 metre left of "Wheelchair Slalom".

FA: Kieran Loughran, Nick Reeves, 1979

11Trad 30m
14 ** Savage God

Good line with a hard finish.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Peter Cunningham, 1978

21Trad 35m
15 Savage God Variant 14Trad 30m
16 Savage God Variant Finish 15Trad 35m
17 Oh God

Beautiful slab but a bit contrived. The finish was originally done as a variant finish to "Savage God" possibly by Hugh Foxcroft.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

17Trad 35m
18 My Grandmother Was A Reptile

The corner to the overhang, traverse right, around the first overhang then up to the roof. Traverse right.

Start: Start as for "Savage God".

FA: Bede Harrington, Mark Nitschke, 1990

19Trad 30m
19 The Gods Must Be Crazy

Campbell Mercer repeated and named this route that had previously been written up as a variant to "Savage God"

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran., 1978

14Trad 30m
20 Who Can It Be Now

The crack through the vertical black stain to teh arete. The arete to the top. Aid used by leader was not required by second.

Start: Start at the bas of "Savage God", on the right wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke, Mark Nitschke, 1990

17 M0Aid 30m
21 Ragamuffin

Start up the arete to reach the crack and follow this to the overhang. Pull over this to excessive jugs.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Savage God" at a slab with a crack up it.

FA: Peter Watling, Tim Stewart, 1978

10Trad 30m
22 Bea-Lea

Not worth the trouble.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Ragamuffin".

FA: Peter Cunningham, Tim Stewart, 1978

10Trad 35m
23 Casey Gone Mouldy

Looks very like a repeat of "Fiery God".

Start: Start at the corner 2 metres left of Bea-Lea.

FA: Bede Harrington, Jill Wilson, 1990

19Trad 35m
24 Fiery God

Climb up to the overhang and step right into a cave. No up the steep crack.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Bea-Lea" where a thin crack leads up a slab to an overhang.

FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman, Peter Cunningham, 1978

18Trad 30m
25 * The Kevin Heinze Memorial Route

Climb up to the overlap and climb it. Move 2 metres left to a second crack and go up right to a second bulge. Over bulge, moving slightly left, and continue more easily.

Start: Start as for "Fiery God".

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1978

14Trad 35m
26 * Whispers

Trend left up the slabs to below the orange streaks in the overlaps. Through the overlaps via the orange streaks and continue up over another bulge to finishing finger cracks.

Start: Start in the sma place as "Fiery God".

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, 1978

16Trad 35m
27 * Harelip

From the start of "Whispers", traverse left on the lip of the overhang to the arete. Head up left of huge blocks and continue past more blocks.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

11Trad 42m
28 * Not Falling But Flailing

Pull unto the diagonal crack and immediately step right onto the wall. Diagonally right up the wall (protection behind loose blocks) to a ledge. Finish up crack 3 metres left of arete.

Start: Start at the left end of the cave at the major diagonal crack ("Not Waving But Drowning").

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Cunningham c, 1979

21 RTrad 35m
29 ** Not Waving But Drowning

Great sustained jamming.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Peter Cunningham, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Iain Sedgman, 1978

18Trad 40m
30 ** The Rite of Spring

Start up white streak 2m R of Diaghilev. One thin move with ground fall potential leads to better protected climbing up to jug and crack. Step right on to orange wall and weave up the centre of the wall with sparse and small protection. Sustained and technical crux. Falling off would be very exciting to say the least.

FA: Mark Wood, 2008

23 XTrad 40m
31 *** Diaghilev

A full value pitch

FA: Keith Egerton, Gordon Talbett, 1978

19Trad 45m
32 Rain Dancer

a great bit of fun, even if you have to pull on the bolt

FA: Edward Darling

17Aid 22m
33 Snap, Crackle, Pop

Up the gully, 15 metres left of "Diaghilev", a groove leads to a right-leading ramp. Up ramp to final corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff,(solo), 1978

15Trad 27m
34 Brittle Bondage

A few metres left of "Snap, 'Crackle', Pop", climb the right arete of a corner to a ledge. Move right and curse up a hard corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1978

15 RTrad 27m
35 Coldfinger

Climb the corner just left of "Brittle Bondage" and then a juggy groove.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Cunningham, 1978

13Trad 25m
36 Dark Struggle

Awkward diagonal on opposite side of gully from "Coldfinger".

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, David Gairns, Gordon Talbett, 1979

14Trad 15m
37 * Pickpocket

Nice pocket pulling. Used to be very poorly protected and probably still is.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watling. Easter., 1980

19 RTrad 10m
38 Chimney Thief

On the front of the block, around left from "Pickpocket" is a bottomless chimney. Finsih up a slabby arete.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

8Trad 35m
39 * Heart of Darkness

Diagonal crack with strange blocks poking out of it just left of "Chimney Thief". Finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Gordon Talbett, 1978

18Trad 35m
40 Paul Keating's Economic Policy Arete 5Trad 70m
41 Not Just A Tap Dance

Up for 3 metres, then take vertical crack on right face up to left side of block. Stepping up take diagonal crack on left for 3 metres then straight up.

Start: Start as for "Wheelchair Slalom"

FA: Bev Dick, Dale Wakefield, Rob Pease, Monica Gallus, 1994

13Trad 35m
42 Old Stoic

Seems contrived.

Start: Start as for "Not Falling But Flailing"

FA: Campbell Mercer, Mark Poustie, 1993

16Trad 40m
43 Harelip DS

More a problem than a climb.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2000

20Trad

1.23. Boot Hill 83 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 In Denial

Start: Start at the juggy line a few metres left of "Sihaya"

  1. 1m (20) Up the line, pass the perched block with care and belay on the slab.

  2. 25m (18) Follow the line diagonally left, then up to break in roof. Pull through and up slab.

FA: Sharyn George, Glenn Tempest(alt), 1997

20Trad 26m
2 Screaming Teeth RHV

Good climbing on steep rock. Take several each of #4 and #5 RPs.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1992

21Trad 40m

1.23.1. No Laughing Matter Buttress 6 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Greenwitch 13Trad 45m
2 The Dark Is Rising 10Trad 45m
3 Afterglow 7Trad 47m
4 Don't Look Now 16Trad 45m
5 No Laughing Matter 8Trad 45m
6 Kookaburra Harpies 6Trad 35m

1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock 20 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Guess Who's Coming To Breakfast 9Trad 16m
2 Beak In The Cheek 11Trad 19m
3 Kiwibugga 13Trad 21m
4 You Toucha My Jaffle, I Breaka Your Beak 10Trad 21m
5 Wings 13Trad 25m
6 Kookaburras Whipped My Jaffle 15Trad 19m
7 Fistfull Of Feathers 17Trad 19m
8 Big Girl's Blouse 12Trad 46m
9 The Fat Slags 4Trad 40m
10 Pathetic Sharks 12Trad 42m
11 Sid The Sexist 8Trad 30m
12 Women Wrestling In Baked Beans 8Trad 30m
13 Buster Gonad 12Trad 28m
14 Viz A Viz 15Trad 40m
15 Spoilt Bastard 16Trad 9m
16 Advanced Tea Substitute 9Trad 18m
17 Peril-Sensitive Sunglasses 12Trad 25m
18 Dogmatrix 8Trad 28m
19 Knavishtrix 8Trad 24m
20 (Unnamed 1) 10Trad 25m

1.23.3. Viz Area 17 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Caffine Addiction

A bit close to the hillside but OK.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Watlin, 2000

18Trad 20m
2 Rake's Progress

Slabby rib 3 metres right of "Out To Pasture"

FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1978

8Trad 25m
3 Out To Pasture

Don't bother.

Start: Start about 5 metres right of "Tourist Party"

FA: Peter Watling, Keith Lockwood, 1981

4Trad 35m
4 Tourist Party

Climb up to the right side of the overhang. Step left through the overhang to the upper slab and go straight up.

Start: Start a couple of metres right of "Getafix" just left of the right edge of the main slab.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

8Trad 25m
5 * Getafix

This has a pretty hefty overhang for the grade.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Juggler> below a crack in the roo.

FA: Peter Treby, Peter Watling, 1978

6Trad 30m
6 * Juggler 9Trad 30m
7 Deshperation

Another wanderer.

Start: Start up the wide crack just right of "Dangerous Driving" or up the left arete of the slab just right again.

FA: Peter Treby, Peter Watling, 1978

14Trad 40m
8 Dangerous Driving

Weaves about wildly.

Start: Start 2 metres left of the wide crack at the bottom right side of the steep wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Alan Hope, 1982

18Trad 30m
9 * Skid Marks

Another short route.

FA: Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips, Kieran Loughran, 1982

17Trad 12m
10 * Guessing Names

Excellent short technical route.

FA: Ian Anger, Kieran Loughran, 1985

21Trad 10m
11 Tickled Pink

Delightful but contrived.

Centre of the slab 3 metres right of "Slippery Dip" and left of steep wall.

FA: Peter Treby, Peter Watling, 1978

8Trad 25m
12 Slippery Dip

Contrived. Centre of narrow slab 5 metres around right of "Fringe Benefits"

FA: Peter Watling, Gabrielle Pellissier, 1978

6Trad 25m
13 Fringe Benefits

Some good thin-crack climbing that isn't as escapable as it looks. Start as for "Bottled Blue"

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran. Easter, 1982

21Trad 25m
14 Bottled Blue

Easy wide corner 5 metres right of sebastian and just left of slabby area.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Rhonda Qoon, 1978

10Trad 20m
15 Sebastian

Crack 1 metres right of "Asterix"

FA: Gabrielle Pellissier, Peter Watling, 1978

9Trad 20m
16 Asterix

Crack 6 metres right of "Sally Banner"

FA: Peter Watling, Gabrielle Pellissier, Keith Egerton, 1978

12Trad 20m
17 * Sally Banner

Open corner with oddly scooped overhangs at left end of cliff.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips, Alan Hope. Easter, 1982

17Trad 20m

1.23.4. Paul Kelly Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Jai Bangla 10Trad 24m
2 * Dumb Things 7Trad 24m
3 Same Old Walk 6Trad 22m
4 Under The Sun 8Trad 30m
5 The Young Ones 4Trad 20m
6 Fox And Terriers 3Trad 20m

1.23.5. Micro Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pico Route 4Trad 8m
2 Kerbstone 8Trad 8m
3 Nano Route 6Trad 8m
4 Gobbledock 10Trad 9m
5 The Mammy Nun 10Trad 12m

1.23.6. Upper Tier 27 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mackdoogal

Cracks up slabby buttress just right of "STOVL".

FA: Heather Phillips, Alan Hope. Easter., 1982

12Trad 30m
2 STOVL

A good short roofing problem.

Start: 30 metres right of "Lonesome Cowboys" is a buttress with a diagonal overhang.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran. Easter., 1982

21Trad 25m
3 Lonesome Cowboys

Crack 5 metres around right from "Dresden" then right-leading ramp.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, Peter Watling. Easter., 1982

17Trad 25m
4 Dresden

'Fragile'

FA: Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips. Easter., 1982

18 RTrad 20m
5 * Dodge City

Preliminary cleaningcame close to decapitating some onlookers.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, David Gairns, Gordon Talbett, 1979

17Trad 30m
6 Miss Kitty

Wide corner and roof 5 metres right of "Saloon".

FA: Nicholas Reeves, Peter Megens, Hugh Foxcroft, Kieran Loughran, 1979

15Trad 30m
7 Saloon

Downmarket.

FA: Peter Megens, Nicholas Reeves, Hugh Foxcroft, 1979

10Trad 30m
8 * Sayyadinna

Follow cracks to the overhang and pull around into the corner. When the corner ends, move right below an overhang to the top.

Start: Start 8 metres right of "Pixi", 23 metres right of "Obelix" below a right-facing flake.

FA: Peter Watling, Ceri Law, 1979

17Trad 30m
9 Pixi

Thin rib until gully can no longer be ignored. Step right and go up thin crack in right wall.

Start: Start at thin rib 15 metres right of "Obelix"

FA: Peter Watling, Ceri Law, 1979

9Trad 30m
10 * Obelix

A detached route.

Start: Start on the left side of the pinnacle, 4 metres right of "Tumbleweeds".

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Watling, 1978

10Trad 30m
11 * Tumbleweeds

Quite good.

Start: In the chimney left of the pinnacle a short corner leads to a roof.

FA: Nicholas Reeves, Kieran Loughran, 1979

17Trad 28m
12 Ruckle

Will never rise above the pack.

Start: Start just right of "Nuptial Bliss".

FA: Keith Lockwood, Peter Watling, 1981

14Trad 39m
13 Nuptial Bliss

Disappointing

Start: Start 8 metres right of "Bitter Taste".

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, 1978

15Trad 30m
14 Bitter Taste

Loose and poorly protected.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Sihaya" just left of the arete.

  1. 37m (17) Follow a flake on the arete onto the right wall. Continue over a bulge to a slab below the roof and traverse back left to the arete. Climb the dubious flake on the arete and move left to belay.

  2. 13m (-) On up the line.

FA: Peter Treby, Peter Watling, 1978

17 RTrad 50m
15 * The Taws Hit

Delicate and good all the way. Melanie got squashed by a block while belaying.

Start: Start in the middle of the slab left of "Sihaya"

  1. 40m (18) Thin diagonal, up to and up tiny corner then leftward line to stance above overlap.

  2. 12m (18) 'Flake' and corner.

FA: Melanie and James McIntosh (alt), 1992

18Trad 52m
16 * Sihaya

Fine climbing up thin cracks.

Start: Start 20 metres right of the large tree of Sinister-Dexter, just left of a corner-gully.

  1. 35m (14) Climb the cracks just left of the corner-gully to a small ledge.

  2. 15m (14) Move left to a slight corner then back right above the overhang to the front of the buttress and go up.

FA: Peter Watling, Gabrielle Pellissier, 1978

14Trad 50m
17 Sinister Dexter

Start: Start at the large tree.

  1. 25m (15) Straight up and up a crack which leads up the right-hand side of the nose to a ledge.

  2. 35m (15) The crack, through the overhang and up.

FA: Peter Cunningham, John Van Der Leest, 1978

15Trad 65m
18 Catch The Rainbow

No pot of gold.

Start: Start 1 metre right of "Melange", 3 metres left of tree.

FA: Rowan Cooper, Ravi Pannell (alt), 1978

11Trad 37m
19 Melange

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Semuta", 4 metres left of tree, 1 metre right of arete.

  1. 40m (16) Up and left to the arete and up the arete. Move into the chimney of "Catch The Rainbow" to belay.

  2. 15m (-) Finish up a crack through the overhang left of the chimney.

FA: Rod Young, Kevin Lindorff (alt) and Trevor Dance, 1978

16Trad 55m
20 Semuta

Indirect.

Start: Start near the left side of the left buttress, at a slight rib 8 metres left of a large tree (start of "Sinister Dexter"), 3 metres left of major arete.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Gabrielle Pellissier, Peter Watling, 1978

16Trad 50m
21 Flash Gordon

Climb the shattered-looking orange and grey wall to a hand-crack running up left. Follow the crack for 10 metres until a hrad move up and right leads to a short crack. Climb the crack, step right and move up to a bulge which is climbed on the right (crux). Continue over bulges to finish up aV-groove.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Semuta" and just right of a shallow corner of shattered rock.

FA: Ian Waring, Gordon Talbett, 1992

21Trad 45m
22 Screaming Teeth

Up the grey wall to the prominent diagonal crack. Go left up the crack for 3 metres to a slight horizontal break on teh rigth and a jug. Step right onto the Arapilesean wall and up to a faint nose. Left around the nose then right and up.

Start: Start just left of the shattered corner left of "Flash Gordon" is a grey wall leading up to the mid-point of the prominent diagonal line.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1992

20Trad 40m
23 Screaming Teeth Right Hand Variant 21Trad 40m
24 False Teeth

Climb the shallow corner with an excursion onto the left wall to reach teh start of the major diagonal line. Follow the diagonal line to a slight horizontal break on the right and a jug. Step left onto the wall and climb the line to a blocky ledge. An easy wall leads to the top.

Start: Start at shallow corner olf shattered rock between "Screaming Teeth and "Flash Gordon".

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone started up Screaming Teeth (20). Gordon Talbett added the start as described, 1992

20Trad 40m
25 False Teeth Variant Start 15Trad 45m
26 Boots 'n All

Up easy wall and crack to the major diagonal weakness. Up left-facing corner and seam to BR. Either go up past another BR (22) or step right to a crack and up to ledge. Up easily to finish.

Start: Start 15 metres left of "Screaming Teeth"

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1992

18Mixed 35m, 1
27 Puss 'n Boots

Up the thin grey face to a ledge., step left to crack and overhang, then easily up to top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of the gully at the left side of the buttress.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1992

15Trad 25m

1.24. Besser Buttresses 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Broken buttresses above the track between 'Goldirocks' and Gilham's. Not much of value here so far. Given it's own area so people don't have to waste paper when printing out another area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Long Crimb, Long Criff

Are you sure this is Goldirocks?

Start: The corner at the left-hand side of the upper cliff.

  1. 35m (15) Up to the ledge below the overhang at 6 metres. Energetically over this and up the crack above.

  2. 15m (-) Corner and chimney roof.

FA: Phillip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox, 1991

15Trad 35m
2 Dem Bones, Dem Bones

Up the buttress, finishing up "Middle Line" or scrambling off left.

Start: Smooth buttress just left of the first pitch of "Middle Line".

FA: Phillip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox, 1991

12Trad 30m
3 Middle Line

Watch out for the pile of bricks.

FA: Craig Nottle, Neil Barr Easter., 1980

12Trad 60m
4 A Smell Of Money

On the right wall of the three buttresses is a large flake system. Climb easily up to the roof. Traverse left under the roof and go up the crack.

FA: Neil Barr, Craig Nottle. Easter, 1980

17Trad 35m
5 Nature's Revenge

Climb the wall on the uphill buttress easily until beneath the big split in the roof. After the initial juggy section, the orange wall below the roof is the crux. The roof is relatively easy.

FA: Craig Nottle, Neil Barr. Easter, 1980

18Trad 40m

1.25. Goldirocks 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

This little cliff has some excellent middle-grade climbs on fine rock. Many of the descents are by abseil from trees but this is not always mentioned in descriptions.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Head off Waterworks Track not far north of the junction with Glenelg River Road, either at the gravel pit, or go a little further north to Native Pines Creek and walk up the creek. The cliff is obvious, with two short rock tiers before the main cliff is reached.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unberievable

Not too bad.

FA: Keith Egerton, Phil Wilkins, 1983

20Trad 15m
2 Croak And Dagger

Never trust a lawyer.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 1983

21Trad 15m
3 One Eighth

Further right into the alcove, right of the off-width, is a corner with twin cracks.

FA: Neil Blundy, Brian Doolan, 1983

8Trad 12m
4 Irky Perky

A bulge in the cliff 10 metres right of "One Eighth" produces some bouldery starts. This takes an arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1983

10Trad 15m
5 April Fools

Similar to the previous climb, starting by a tree to the right.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Pete Megens, 1983

16Trad 15m
6 Buns

The line just right of "April Fools" on a juggy wall. Veer right to go through a steepening and then left to the top.

FA: Neil Blundy, Brian Doolan, 1983

10Trad 25m
7 * Catherine

Quite a nice climb, somewhat spoiled by the grassy finish.

FA: Peter Megens, Hugh Foxcroft, 1983

18Trad 18m
8 Quakers

The prominent V-corner 30 metres left of the orange wall.

FA: David Gairns, Hugh Foxcroft, Miles Martin, 1983

15Trad 15m
9 Bananas In Pyjamas

Energetic moves up the foot of the arete lead to easier ground. Follow the left edge of the buttress to the top.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Quakers" at the right arete of its corner.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Alan Hope, 1992

13Trad 24m
10 Floppsy Bunnies

Climb the centre of the buttress via a very shallow corner in the upper half. There is a good abseil tree above the buttress just to the right.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Bananas In Pyjamas" is a broad grey buttress with a tree growing horizontally from the top on the left.

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett, 1992

9Trad 21m
11 I'm A Country Member

You'll remember this.

Start: Walk uphill from the top of "Floppsy Bunnies" to a wall with an orange corner/roof at its right-hand end.

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett, 1992

16Trad 21m
12 Zucchinis In Bikinis

Climb the left wall then the smooth corner crack to the top.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Floppsy Bunnies" and 10 metres left of "Disappointment" is a shallow corner with a juggy left wall.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Alan Hope, 1992

10Trad 22m
13 Homogenised

Climb the left nose of the narrow buttress immediately ledt of "Disappointment".

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence, Michael Hampton, 1993

18Trad 16m
14 Pasteurised

The right of the two aretes just left of "Disappointment".

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Tim Burke, Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence, 1993

16Trad 16m
15 Disappointment

An appealing name for a climb.

FA: Greg Davies, Brian Doolan, 1983

9Trad 15m
16 ** This Little Piggy

A fine line up the centre of the beautiful orange wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 1983

22Trad 15m
17 * Big Bad Wolf

More skullduggery saw Lindorff snaffling this ahead of Egerton. The fixed nut (on old cord) needs replacing before the route is attempted.

Start: Start at corner and seam just right of "This Little Piggy"

FA: Kevin lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1983

23Trad 35m
18 Ferrets & Fossils

Start up "Too Hard" then traverse left to arete at 3 metres. Up arete to finish as for "There's Something Wrong With My Arms".

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

17Trad 36m
19 Too Hard

Some dubious rock.

Start: Start right of "Big Bad Wolf" at a red overhang with a hand-crack on its right side.

FA: Peter Martin, Hugh Foxcroft, 1983

17Trad 25m
20 * Blast From The Past

Sustained climbing up the shallow black groove and right-facing corner 4 metres right of "Too Hard". Near the top, cross a slab on the right to an abseil tree.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1983

20Trad 30m
21 Just Right

A couple of metres right of "Blast From The Past", steep hand-jamming off the ledge gives way to easy climbing.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Neil Blundy, 1983

17Trad 30m
22 Grunting For The Camera

The route "Spatlese" (Maddox, Armstrong)is almost certainly a repeat of this.

Start: Start 1 metre left of "Sour Grapes".

FA: Graeme Smith, Bruce Somerfield, 1990

19Trad 25m
23 * Sour Grapes

Bridging moves lead to a good jam-crack almost in the chimney corner.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Just Right" just left of a chimney-cleft.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, 1983

17Trad 30m
24 Spatlese 18Trad 30m
25 Downpour

Pleasant bridging up the chimney-cleft just right of "Sour Grapes" then at one-third height take the left-hand branch, finishing up the steeper corner.

FA: Peter Watling, Helen Godfrey, 1984

11Trad 25m
26 Too Soft

Meanders up the buttress right of "Downpour". Take the weakness leading right to a large ledge. Scramble up.

FA: Neil Blundy, Peter Megens, 1983

10Trad 40m
27 Leveret

Quite an attractive little thing.

Start: Start a little right of "Too Soft" at a red corner and roof.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Dave Gairns, 1983

18Trad 30m
28 Butt Medler (for the Boys) 23Trad 22m
29 Huff And Puff

A bit tricky.

FA: Mike Wust, Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff, 1984

19Trad 25m
30 Goodnight Mum, Goodnight Dad

Up the shallow corner above the gap in the ledge and finish easily up the slab. Abseil from tree.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Huff And Puff" at a gap in the ledge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 1984

19Trad 25m
31 Baby Bear's New Playmate

Start as for "Goodnight Mumm, Goodnight Dad" but move right to the arete. Follow the line just right of the arete to the easy upper slab.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 1984

20Trad 25m
32 Firma Terra

Follow the thin crack right of the gap in the ledge. It curves right at the top into a wider line.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, 1983

20Trad 20m
33 Masters Apprentices

The wide crack right of "Firma Terra" has an impertinent move near the top.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Neil Blundy, Brian Doolan, 1983

15Trad 20m
34 Old Moll

Useless.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of "Masters Apprentices".

FA: Peter Megens, Greg Davies. Optional finish : Chris and Sue Baxter.., 1983

12Trad 20m
35 Little Miss Muffed It

Up the corner and slab above to tree and abseil.

Start: Start 20 metres right of "Old Moll", on the same level, at the obvious corner with the small roof at the top.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke, 1991

11Trad 10m
36 Easter Bunnies

Quite nice. The right-leaning crack which marks the left side of this little wall.

FA: Helen Godfrey, Peter Watling, 1984

11Trad 15m
37 Nursery Crime

The razor-like crack right of "Easter Bunnies", darting left at half-height to a break. Follow the break left to the arete and go up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1983

21Trad 15m
38 Buffalo Gals

The nice jam-crack right of "Nursery Crime"

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, 1983

10Trad 15m
39 Through The Looking Class (And Into Roraima)

Up crack to disconcerting grassy exit.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack 20 metres right of "Buffalo Gals".

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke, 1991

16Trad 12m
40 Butt Medler

(For the Boys)

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Glenn Tempest, 1993

23Trad 22m
41 There's Something Wrong With My Arms

The overhanging weakness between "Big Bad Wolf" and "Too Hard", moving right to climb the left side of the arete. Finish up left-leading ramp.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

22Trad 35m

1.26. Galaxy Crag 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Galaxy Crag is found about 50 metres above the left-hand end of the Eagle's Head lower cliff.

Good climbs on solid, well-protected rock.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Refer VCC New Routes 1999

'Access' is as for the left end of Eagle's Head to the gully where "Cherry Boy" is found. Continue up left from the gully and the straight up the hillside until a compact crag with a mostly undercut base is reached

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Martian Way

Crack in the north face of the left-most buttress of the crag.

Start: Start up small gully immediately in front of prominent tree.

FA: Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1996

15Trad 13m
2 Captain Planet and the Planeteers

Arete and face on left-most buttress of crag.

FA: Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1996

16Trad 15m
3 Champagne Supernova

Crack in undercut buttress about 20 metres right of "captain Planet And The Planeteers", 1.5 metres right of rubbly chimney.

FA: Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1996

18Trad 15m
4 Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?

Crack 2 metres right of "Champagne Supernova"

FA: Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1996

22Trad 15m
5 Slarty Bartfast

Recessed buttress some 15 metres right of "Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep" with seam up middle of wall.

FA: Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1996

19Trad 12m
6 * Moondancing

Extremely overhung crack up left side of buttress 15 metres right of "Slarty Bartfast".

FA: Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1996

19Trad 12m

1.27. Freestone Rocks 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
Description:© (kieranl)

Next crag up the north branch of Mosquito Creek from 'Dragon Wall'. Crag marred by a series of lines that end part way up the major orange wall facing the creek. Also, there's a reason the stream is called Mosquito Creek.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 114679

Walk along spur from 'Dragon Wall' and cut in at high level.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Free to a Good Home

Cracks at left end of major south-facing black wall.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, Chris Baxter, 1996

15Trad 30m
2 * Free to Air

Crack up centre of buttress on rigth side of crag leading directly from creek.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1997

20Trad 45m
3 Free For All

Probably needs some bolts. Has only been top-roped.

FA: FTA Greg Aimer., 1996

24Unknown 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 Fox And Terriers Trad 20m 1.23.4. Paul Kelly Wall
4 Fugger Trad 28m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Green Furry Cassock Trad 12m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Landschnechts In Lycra Trad 25m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
The Fur People Trad 15m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Wheelchair Slalom Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
The Fat Slags Trad 40m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Out To Pasture Trad 35m 1.23.3. Viz Area
The Young Ones Trad 20m 1.23.4. Paul Kelly Wall
Pico Route Trad 8m 1.23.5. Micro Wall
5 Liars, Damn Liars And The F.C.V. Trad 10m 1.5. Slander Gully
Motornose Trad 45m 1.5. Slander Gully
Scabs On Heat Trad 70m 1.5. Slander Gully
Lee Shore Trad 33m 1.9. Eagles Head Summit Slab
Cod-Pieces And Tights Trad 18m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Papal Bull Trad 18m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Paul Keating's Economic Policy Arete Trad 70m 1.22. Death March Wall
Small Trad 20m 1.22. Death March Wall
6 Speargunna Trad 8m 1.20.2. Right Wall
Pure Folly Trad 17m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Shroud Of Turn Trad 18m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
* Arcadia Trad 28m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Il Paradiso Trad 28m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Quintessence Trad 28m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Urchin Trad 15m 1.22. Death March Wall
Kookaburra Harpies Trad 35m 1.23.1. No Laughing Matter Buttress
* Getafix Trad 30m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Slippery Dip Trad 25m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Same Old Walk Trad 22m 1.23.4. Paul Kelly Wall
Nano Route Trad 8m 1.23.5. Micro Wall
7 Bronchitis Trad 90m 1.1.2. Diseased Wall
Unknown Trad 10m 1.13. Ruined Castle
Free And Easy Trad 110m 1.17. Cloggy
Crescent Footpad Trad 15m 1.21.1. Back Buttress
Orlando Trad 15m 1.21.1. Back Buttress
Diet Of Worms Trad 21m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Escher Trad 14m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Everybody Hates Me Trad 17m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
In Praise Of Folly Trad 25m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Nobody Loves Me Trad 21m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Vatican Rag Trad 18m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Afterglow Trad 47m 1.23.1. No Laughing Matter Buttress
* Dumb Things Trad 24m 1.23.4. Paul Kelly Wall
8 Top Hat Trad 27m 1.8. Eagles Head
Jetstream Trad 44m 1.9. Eagles Head Summit Slab
Out In The Noonday Sun Trad 50m 1.9. Eagles Head Summit Slab
Wind Shear Trad 35m 1.9. Eagles Head Summit Slab
Hatehakea Trad 30m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
The Great Slab Trad 75m 1.17. Cloggy
The Wayfarer Trad 160m 1.17. Cloggy
L'Access Trad 30m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
Little Gem Trad 10m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Chimney Thief Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
No Laughing Matter Trad 45m 1.23.1. No Laughing Matter Buttress
Dogmatrix Trad 28m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Knavishtrix Trad 24m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Sid The Sexist Trad 30m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Women Wrestling In Baked Beans Trad 30m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Rake's Progress Trad 25m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Tickled Pink Trad 25m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Tourist Party Trad 25m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Under The Sun Trad 30m 1.23.4. Paul Kelly Wall
Kerbstone Trad 8m 1.23.5. Micro Wall
One Eighth Trad 12m 1.25. Goldirocks
9 * Keiph Ledgerton Trad 47m 1.5. Slander Gully
Blow The Man Down Trad 33m 1.9. Eagles Head Summit Slab
Force 10 Trad 50m 1.9. Eagles Head Summit Slab
Mad Dogs And Englishman Trad 50m 1.9. Eagles Head Summit Slab
Rhythm Pigs Trad 25m 1.19.6. Hypokinesic Wall
Hilliard Trad 17m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Pilastered Again Trad 5m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Janissaries In The Gym Trad 23m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Trial Balance Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
Advanced Tea Substitute Trad 18m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Guess Who's Coming To Breakfast Trad 16m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
* Juggler Trad 30m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Sebastian Trad 20m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Pixi Trad 30m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Disappointment Trad 15m 1.25. Goldirocks
Floppsy Bunnies Trad 21m 1.25. Goldirocks
10 Buglers Retreat Trad 100m 1.8. Eagles Head
Off Shore Drilling Trad 23m 1.8. Eagles Head
Thesiger Trad 45m 1.11. HB Wall
Leichardt Trad 65m 1.12. Dead Explorers Slab
What's The Point Of Going Climbing If You Don't Like Ti-Tree? Trad 45m 1.12. Dead Explorers Slab
* Dur Hardder Direct Trad 120m 1.17. Cloggy
Chewing Gum Trad 30m 1.19.4. Smoke Wall
Not With It Trad 18m 1.19.4. Smoke Wall
Drop Of The Watch Trad 15m 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
Shellgrit Trad 10m 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
Impetuous Youth Trad 14m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Lachrimae Trad 17m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
* Elysium Trad 31m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Empyrean Trad 40m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Bea-Lea Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
Ragamuffin Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
The Dark Is Rising Trad 45m 1.23.1. No Laughing Matter Buttress
(Unnamed 1) Trad 25m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
You Toucha My Jaffle, I Breaka Your Beak Trad 21m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Bottled Blue Trad 20m 1.23.3. Viz Area
* Jai Bangla Trad 24m 1.23.4. Paul Kelly Wall
Gobbledock Trad 9m 1.23.5. Micro Wall
The Mammy Nun Trad 12m 1.23.5. Micro Wall
* Obelix Trad 30m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Saloon Trad 30m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Buffalo Gals Trad 15m 1.25. Goldirocks
Buns Trad 25m 1.25. Goldirocks
Irky Perky Trad 15m 1.25. Goldirocks
Too Soft Trad 40m 1.25. Goldirocks
Zucchinis In Bikinis Trad 22m 1.25. Goldirocks
11 Jugular Vein Trad 80m 1.1.2. Diseased Wall
* Cricklewood Rainbow Trad 120m 1.17. Cloggy
Sunset Groove Trad 70m 1.17. Cloggy
Cardinal Sin Trad 21m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
* Flow My Tears Trad 17m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
* Pavane Trad 25m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Spanish Gold Trad 10m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
* Harelip Trad 42m 1.22. Death March Wall
Icon Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
Beak In The Cheek Trad 19m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Catch The Rainbow Trad 37m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Downpour Trad 25m 1.25. Goldirocks
Easter Bunnies Trad 15m 1.25. Goldirocks
Little Miss Muffed It Trad 10m 1.25. Goldirocks
12 Gay Welders Super Corner Trad 45m 1.1.2. Diseased Wall
Welders Butt Crack Trad 45m 1.1.2. Diseased Wall
Beyond Gravity Trad 40m 1.4. The Flatiron
Robbed Trad 16m 1.4. The Flatiron
Cymru Or Stuff Like That Trad 18m 1.5. Slander Gully
Delusions Of Grandeur Trad 25m 1.5. Slander Gully
What Uncle Bangla Did For Easter Trad 15m 1.5. Slander Gully
When Heather Hops Out ... Trad 15m 1.5. Slander Gully
Whimp's Picnic Trad 50m 1.5. Slander Gully
The South Pox Trad 70m 1.6. Mt Pox
Have I Ever Told You Trad 35m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* Cataract Corner Trad 61m 1.17. Cloggy
* The Good Soldier Trad 40m 1.17. Cloggy
Hippy Chick Trad 20m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
One Man Show Trad 18m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
Falcon's Anxiety Variant Start Trad 8m 1.19.2. Shady Gully
* Hypokinesic Trad 25m 1.19.6. Hypokinesic Wall
Sticky Fingers Variant Start Trad 10m 1.19.6. Hypokinesic Wall
The War Is Over Trad 20m 1.19.10. War Wall
Stuck Up Trad 20m 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
* Cistern Chapel Trad 18m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Frightened Mew Trad 21m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Copernicus Eliminate Trad 15m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Harmonia Mundi Trad 40m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Kepler Trad 40m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Big Girl's Blouse Trad 46m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Buster Gonad Trad 28m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Pathetic Sharks Trad 42m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Peril-Sensitive Sunglasses Trad 25m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Asterix Trad 20m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Mackdoogal Trad 30m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Dem Bones, Dem Bones Trad 30m 1.24. Besser Buttresses
Middle Line Trad 60m 1.24. Besser Buttresses
Old Moll Trad 20m 1.25. Goldirocks
13 New Wave, Old Hat Trad 20m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Black Feral Cat, An Undeniable Truth Trad 50m 1.5. Slander Gully
Petit Dejeuner Trad 12m 1.5. Slander Gully
Arctic Pox Trad 40m 1.6. Mt Pox
Arête Syndrome Trad 15m 1.8. Eagles Head
* Copybook Trad 40m 1.8. Eagles Head
GT Stripe Trad 25m 1.8. Eagles Head
Noisy Dog Night Trad 40m 1.8. Eagles Head
Wedgy Trad 15m 1.8. Eagles Head
Lassiter Trad 61m 1.12. Dead Explorers Slab
Legends Of The Fall Trad 10m 1.13. Ruined Castle
Highspeed Mad Trad 40m 1.18. The Arches
Fizzio's Fizickle Trad 20m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
Middle Ages? What Middle Ages? Trad 40m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Coldfinger Trad 25m 1.22. Death March Wall
Not Just A Tap Dance Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
Greenwitch Trad 45m 1.23.1. No Laughing Matter Buttress
Kiwibugga Trad 21m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Wings Trad 25m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Bananas In Pyjamas Trad 24m 1.25. Goldirocks
14 Napalm Sunday Trad 20m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Lost in Deep Space Trad 20m 1.4. The Flatiron
Bonsai Your Pet Trad 18m 1.5. Slander Gully
Underwhelmed Trad 47m 1.11. HB Wall
Winter Solstice Trad 25m 1.13. Ruined Castle
Breach Of Promise Trad 140m 1.17. Cloggy
* Lighting Trad 30m 1.17. Cloggy
Roobarb Trad 25m 1.17. Cloggy
The Late Show Trad 64m 1.17. Cloggy
Two Slobs on a Slab Trad 20m 1.19.3. Schmitt Block
Naval Salute Trad 12m 1.20.2. Right Wall
Pinups Of Bosch Trad 8m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Elysium Variant Start Trad 8m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Galileo Trad 28m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Dark Struggle Trad 15m 1.22. Death March Wall
Savage God Variant Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
The Gods Must Be Crazy Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
* The Kevin Heinze Memorial Route Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
Deshperation Trad 40m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Ruckle Trad 39m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
* Sihaya Trad 50m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
15 Fatty and Baldys Big Adventure Trad 16m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Filthy Girls Trad 8m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Big chimney Trad 50m 1.4. The Flatiron
Ironear Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
Permanent Press Trad 12m 1.4. The Flatiron
Pet Willow Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
Pet Willow Iron Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
Hot Croissant Trad 10m 1.5. Slander Gully
* Roll Over, Oates Trad 48m 1.6. Mt Pox
Hidden MSG Trad 15m 1.8. Eagles Head
The Bumbly Threshold Trad 90m 1.8. Eagles Head
This is not a club trip Trad 15m 1.8. Eagles Head
Flanked Trad 25m 1.13. Ruined Castle
The First Crusade Pitch 1 Sport 20m, 5 1.13. Ruined Castle
The Muffin Man Trad 42m 1.15. The Snack Bar
Black Marsupial Lion As An Established Rumour Trad 35m 1.17. Cloggy
** The Final Edition Trad 20m 1.19.3. Schmitt Block
Moving Right Along Trad 10m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
Sporting Aces Trad 20m 1.19.9. Sportz Wall
A Martyr's Life Trad 15m 1.19.11. Patriot Pinnacle
Something New Trad 20m 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
Leonardo Trad 25m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
* Dawn Of Perspective Trad 40m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Quite Hard In Plimsolls Trad 22m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Brittle Bondage Trad 27m 1.22. Death March Wall
Savage God Variant Finish Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
Snap, Crackle, Pop Trad 27m 1.22. Death March Wall
Kookaburras Whipped My Jaffle Trad 19m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Viz A Viz Trad 40m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
False Teeth Variant Start Trad 45m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Miss Kitty Trad 30m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Nuptial Bliss Trad 30m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Puss 'n Boots Trad 25m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Sinister Dexter Trad 65m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Long Crimb, Long Criff Trad 35m 1.24. Besser Buttresses
Masters Apprentices Trad 20m 1.25. Goldirocks
Quakers Trad 15m 1.25. Goldirocks
The Martian Way Trad 13m 1.26. Galaxy Crag
Free to a Good Home Trad 30m 1.27. Freestone Rocks
16 Kazual Trad 40m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Wonga Park R.F.B. Trad 20m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Starsky and Thrutch Trad 6m 1.1.4. Flame Wall AKA Graham's Creek Supercrag
Puff Trad 12m 1.2. Dragon Wall
Against The Tide Trad 70m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Jaffle Iron Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
* The Weight Trad 18m 1.4. The Flatiron
* F!ush Trad 40m 1.5. Slander Gully
* Take This Job and Shov It Trad 40m 1.5. Slander Gully
Pox FM Trad 15m 1.6. Mt Pox
Pox Trot Unknown 70m 1.6. Mt Pox
Bird's Nest Soup Trad 10m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Flying Compost Trad 50m 1.8. Eagles Head
Morals and Dogma Trad 15m 1.8. Eagles Head
Not The Kingswood Trad 25m 1.8. Eagles Head
Pretty In Pink Trad 25m 1.8. Eagles Head
* Rumbuggery Trad 95m 1.8. Eagles Head
* Solace Trad 79m 1.8. Eagles Head
* Sweet Thursday Trad 25m 1.8. Eagles Head
The Shortest Day Trad 25m 1.13. Ruined Castle
Stretchmate Trad 45m 1.15. The Snack Bar
* Aimless Blade Trad 45m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* Little Escapes Trad 35m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* Soft SheIl Trad 35m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
Slaughterhouse 5 Trad 35m 1.17. Cloggy
Bulbous Bellies Trad 18m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
Tea And Snags Trad 10m 1.19.2. Shady Gully
Head Over Heels Trad 22m 1.19.3. Schmitt Block
Fun Factor Trad 18m 1.19.4. Smoke Wall
The Twinkie Trad 10m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
Scared Stiff Trad 20m 1.19.11. Patriot Pinnacle
15 Years On Trad 26m 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
Pillow Talk Trad 15m 1.20.2. Right Wall
* Papal Funk Trad 18m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Beauty Without Cruelty Trad 15m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Copernicus Trad 40m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
Charles Atlas Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
Frumpy Old Women Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
Old Stoic Trad 40m 1.22. Death March Wall
* Whispers Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
Don't Look Now Trad 45m 1.23.1. No Laughing Matter Buttress
Spoilt Bastard Trad 9m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
Melange Trad 55m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Semuta Trad 50m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
April Fools Trad 15m 1.25. Goldirocks
I'm A Country Member Trad 21m 1.25. Goldirocks
Pasteurised Trad 16m 1.25. Goldirocks
Through The Looking Class (And Into Roraima) Trad 12m 1.25. Goldirocks
Captain Planet and the Planeteers Trad 15m 1.26. Galaxy Crag
17 Laryngitis Trad 80m 1.1.2. Diseased Wall
Jono's face Trad 25m 1.4. The Flatiron
Deadly Earnest Trad 35m 1.5. Slander Gully
* Not Raving But Climbing Trad 45m 1.5. Slander Gully
* Silly Sausage Trad 27m 1.5. Slander Gully
Sticky Beak (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) Trad 12m 1.5. Slander Gully
Poxy Lady Unknown 65m 1.6. Mt Pox
Bridge Too Far Trad 18m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Deadly Earnest Trad 35m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Sticky Beak Trad 12m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
** Born to fly Trad 18m 1.8. Eagles Head
No Name Country Trad 40m 1.8. Eagles Head
The Velvet Beak Trad 25m 1.8. Eagles Head
I Think I'll Eat My Hat Trad 15m 1.10. Back And Beyond
Power Of Curry Trad 22m 1.11. HB Wall
* A Good Day Out Trad 30m 1.13. Ruined Castle
A Good Day Out Direct Finish Trad 30m 1.13. Ruined Castle
Carcassonne And Cassoulet Trad 35m 1.13. Ruined Castle
* Carcazonz Crack Trad 35m 1.13. Ruined Castle
* Possum Police Trad 25m 1.13. Ruined Castle
* Gorker Trad 25m 1.14. Out to Lunch Wall
The Bagman Trad 15m 1.15. The Snack Bar
Hot Cross Trad 25m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* The Voyage of Vascopyjama Trad 35m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
Billy Pilgrim Trad 40m 1.17. Cloggy
Breakfast Of Champions Trad 35m 1.17. Cloggy
* Texas Trad 100m 1.18. The Arches
Tickets Please Trad 18m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
* Lethargic Liver Trad 18m 1.19.3. Schmitt Block
Invasion USA Trad 10m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
Sticky Fingers Trad 35m 1.19.6. Hypokinesic Wall
Begegnung Mixed 20m, 1 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
Whippersnipper Trad 40m 1.20.1. Left Wall
Oh God Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
Rain Dancer Aid 22m 1.22. Death March Wall
Robert Bruce Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
Fistfull Of Feathers Trad 19m 1.23.2. Kookaburra Rock
* Sally Banner Trad 20m 1.23.3. Viz Area
* Skid Marks Trad 12m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Bitter Taste Trad 50m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
* Dodge City Trad 30m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Lonesome Cowboys Trad 25m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
* Sayyadinna Trad 30m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
* Tumbleweeds Trad 28m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
A Smell Of Money Trad 35m 1.24. Besser Buttresses
Ferrets & Fossils Trad 36m 1.25. Goldirocks
Just Right Trad 30m 1.25. Goldirocks
* Sour Grapes Trad 30m 1.25. Goldirocks
Too Hard Trad 25m 1.25. Goldirocks
17 M0 Who Can It Be Now Aid 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
18 Baby Bum Trad 12m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Mayday Trad 30m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Damsel in Distress Trad 20m 1.2. Dragon Wall
** In The Dominion of Eagles Trad 55m 1.3. Ultima Thule
Big Drum Small World Trad 30m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Rump Ranger Trad 25m 1.4. The Flatiron
Big Nose (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) Trad 12m 1.5. Slander Gully
Bug Powder Dust (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) Trad 27m 1.5. Slander Gully
Fillet De Boeuf Trad 20m 1.5. Slander Gully
*** Twentieth Century Black Feral Cat Trad 45m 1.5. Slander Gully
Howling Huskies Trad 50m 1.6. Mt Pox
* Snow Cat Rock 'n' RoIl Trad 50m 1.6. Mt Pox
Big Nose Trad 12m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Bug Powder Dust Trad 27m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
** Night Owl Theatre Trad 30m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
* The Extension Lead Sport 15m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Traditional Arrangement Trad 13m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Inadequate Oxygen Trad 27m 1.8. Eagles Head
Ssshh, don’t tell the masses 15m Trad 15m 1.8. Eagles Head
** Sundae Trad 25m 1.8. Eagles Head
* The Final Solution Trad 18m 1.8. Eagles Head
Wanna Buy An Idea Trad 28m 1.8. Eagles Head
High On The Hill Trad 40m 1.10. Back And Beyond
* The Knights Templar Trad 22m 1.13. Ruined Castle
* Tiger Mitre's Central Organ Trad 20m 1.14. Out to Lunch Wall
Done To (Golden) Darth Trad 25m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* Slug Trad 50m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
Player Piano Trad 30m 1.17. Cloggy
Locusts Trad 15m 1.19.2. Shady Gully
* A Burnt Out Case Trad 25m 1.19.4. Smoke Wall
* Purple Rain Trad 20m 1.19.4. Smoke Wall
Hierschel Heroines Trad 25m 1.19.7. Thylacine Wall
Athletes Foot Trad 12m 1.19.9. Sportz Wall
What's So Funny Bout Peace Love And Understanding? Variant Start Trad 1.19.10. War Wall
Bad Influence Trad 35m 1.19.11. Patriot Pinnacle
Coldilocks and the Three Brrs Trad 26m 1.20.1. Left Wall
Mrs Miggin's Pie Shop Trad 40m 1.20.1. Left Wall
Burns On Tender Flesh Trad 18m 1.20.2. Right Wall
Role Reversal Trad 16m 1.20.2. Right Wall
Fiery God Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
Grappelli Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
* Heart of Darkness Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
** Layback and Enjoy lt Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
No Head For Heights Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
** Not Waving But Drowning Trad 40m 1.22. Death March Wall
Reinhardt Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
Caffine Addiction Trad 20m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Dangerous Driving Trad 30m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Boots 'n All Mixed 35m, 1 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Dresden Trad 20m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
* The Taws Hit Trad 52m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Nature's Revenge Trad 40m 1.24. Besser Buttresses
* Catherine Trad 18m 1.25. Goldirocks
Homogenised Trad 16m 1.25. Goldirocks
Leveret Trad 30m 1.25. Goldirocks
Spatlese Trad 30m 1.25. Goldirocks
Champagne Supernova Trad 15m 1.26. Galaxy Crag
19 Lachlans Big Day Out Trad 10m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Poets Corner Trad 14m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
* Rock Lobster Trad 28m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
* The Lying Rodent Trad 22m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
* Back in Black Trad 20m 1.1.6. The Gorge
* Iron Filings Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
Iron Lady Trad 12m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Iron Lung Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Fried Tent Dwellers Trad 45m 1.5. Slander Gully
Scott's Last Move Trad 48m 1.6. Mt Pox
** Chill Fingers Trad 65m 1.8. Eagles Head
* Different Kind of Esky Trad 27m 1.8. Eagles Head
Get Ready Bold Trad 27m 1.8. Eagles Head
Peace Trad 15m 1.8. Eagles Head
* Some Faraway Beach Trad 60m 1.8. Eagles Head
Talon Trad 80m 1.8. Eagles Head
Slow Roasted Piggy Sport 20m, 4 1.13. Ruined Castle
Alice's Restaurant Trad 30m 1.14. Out to Lunch Wall
Snail Trad 50m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
** Maiden Ecstasy Trad 100m 1.17. Cloggy
** Golden Ghetto Greper Trad 18m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
* Slap and Tickie Trad 18m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
Falcon's Anxiety Trad 20m 1.19.2. Shady Gully
** Do You Mind if l Smoke? Trad 20m 1.19.4. Smoke Wall
I Nose The Nose Trad 10m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
What's So Funny Bout Peace Love And Understanding? Variant Finish Trad 11m 1.19.10. War Wall
Fat Boys Can't Dyno Trad 12m 1.19.12. Fat Boys Wall
Don't Be Denied Trad 12m 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
The Cut Runs Deep Trad 22m 1.20.1. Left Wall
Galileo's Balls Trad 18m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Leaning Tower Of Pisa Trad 18m 1.21.2. The Lower Cliff
Casey Gone Mouldy Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
*** Diaghilev Trad 45m 1.22. Death March Wall
My Grandmother Was A Reptile Trad 30m 1.22. Death March Wall
* Pickpocket Trad 10m 1.22. Death March Wall
Goodnight Mum, Goodnight Dad Trad 25m 1.25. Goldirocks
Grunting For The Camera Trad 25m 1.25. Goldirocks
Huff And Puff Trad 25m 1.25. Goldirocks
* Moondancing Trad 12m 1.26. Galaxy Crag
Slarty Bartfast Trad 12m 1.26. Galaxy Crag
19 M0 (Unnamed 1) Aid 15m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
20 ** Spinal Column Trad 100m 1.1.2. Diseased Wall
Me and Johnson Trad 20m 1.1.3. Wallyworld
Angle Iron Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
Black Iron Trad 8m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Iron Awe Trad 25m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Irony Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Summit Fever Trad 25m 1.4. The Flatiron
** Grease Nipples (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) Trad 45m 1.5. Slander Gully
Irish IUD Trad 35m 1.5. Slander Gully
* Not About Heroes Trad 55m 1.5. Slander Gully
World Championship Wrestling Trad 56m 1.5. Slander Gully
* Pox on the Run Trad 45m 1.6. Mt Pox
** Grease Nipples Trad 45m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
I'm Black and I'm Proud Trad 15m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Separation Anxiety Trad 15m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Long Distance Trad 15m 1.8. Eagles Head
Solitude Trad 15m 1.8. Eagles Head
A Northern Pharos Kitten Trad 20m 1.13. Ruined Castle
* Forbidden Fruits Sport 17m, 5 1.13. Ruined Castle
Short Sharp Shock Trad 15m 1.13. Ruined Castle
Spent Sport 5 1.13. Ruined Castle
* The First Crusade Pitch 4 Sport 8m, 3 1.13. Ruined Castle
* Everything's on Fire Trad 25m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* Floaties Trad 40m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
** Tortoise Trad 50m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
Turning Turtle Trad 25m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
Nest Eggs Trad 18m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
Never Too Fat to Slap Trad 18m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
* Restless Trad 60m 1.19.6. Hypokinesic Wall
George Bush Trad 35m 1.19.7. Thylacine Wall
* Retro-futurism Trad 50m 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
* Living in the Seventies Trad 20m 1.20.1. Left Wall
When the Levee Breaks Trad 18m 1.20.1. Left Wall
Barbaqery Trad 18m 1.20.2. Right Wall
Harelip DS Trad 1.22. Death March Wall
The Hot Club Trad 10m 1.22. Death March Wall
In Denial Trad 26m 1.23. Boot Hill
False Teeth Trad 40m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Screaming Teeth Trad 40m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Baby Bear's New Playmate Trad 25m 1.25. Goldirocks
* Blast From The Past Trad 30m 1.25. Goldirocks
Firma Terra Trad 20m 1.25. Goldirocks
Unberievable Trad 15m 1.25. Goldirocks
* Free to Air Trad 45m 1.27. Freestone Rocks
20 M0 Botticelli's Angels Aid 25m 1.21.3. The Upper Cliff
21 Flying Possum Trad 20m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Gay Welders Have Hotter Rods Trad 8m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
* Accidental Incision During Surgery (AIDS) Trad 110m 1.1.2. Diseased Wall
Superhands Trad 20m 1.1.3. Wallyworld
Knights in White Satin Mixed 20m, 1 1.2. Dragon Wall
Mike's face Trad 25m 1.4. The Flatiron
* The Bottom Inspectors Trad 25m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Ambrose Trad 25m 1.5. Slander Gully
** Pretty Poxy Trad 25m 1.6. Mt Pox
A Paler Shade of White Trad 22m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
* Moonlight Mile Trad 11m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Screaming Trees Variant Trad 14m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
* Variant of Screaming Trees Trad 12m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
** Bloodhound Trad 17m 1.8. Eagles Head
* Bushwalking In The Gramps Trad 40m 1.8. Eagles Head
** Modern Exploration Trad 30m 1.8. Eagles Head
I Used To Be A Beardstroker , But I'm All Right Now Trad 24m 1.10. Back And Beyond
Alexius Sport 16m, 5 1.13. Ruined Castle
Falconer unbolted Project (Neil) Trad 14m 1.13. Ruined Castle
* Nicaea Sport 15m, 5 1.13. Ruined Castle
Slap & Tickle Trad 18m 1.15. The Snack Bar
Turtle Diary Trad 15m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* Zaphod Beeblerox Trad 55m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
Goats Head Soup Trad 18m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
Smoking is a Health Hazard Trad 25m 1.19.4. Smoke Wall
Sniffing The White Owl Trad 18m 1.19.4. Smoke Wall
* G.I. Joe Trad 22m 1.19.10. War Wall
What's So Funny Bout Peace Love And Understanding? Trad 22m 1.19.10. War Wall
7 of 9 is Lovely Sport 15m, 7 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
9 out of 10 ain't bad Sport 12m, 5 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
Never Stop Gibbin' Trad 20m 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
Physical therapy Sport 10m, 4 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
Black & Tan Trad 18m 1.20.1. Left Wall
** Greystrokes Trad 30m 1.20.1. Left Wall
** White Pointer Trad 40m 1.20.1. Left Wall
China Beach Variant Start Trad 1.20.2. Right Wall
Coxcomb Trad 17m 1.20.2. Right Wall
Feeding Frenzy Trad 17m 1.20.2. Right Wall
** Hammerhead Trad 18m 1.20.2. Right Wall
* Not Falling But Flailing Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
** Savage God Trad 35m 1.22. Death March Wall
Screaming Teeth RHV Trad 40m 1.23. Boot Hill
Fringe Benefits Trad 25m 1.23.3. Viz Area
* Guessing Names Trad 10m 1.23.3. Viz Area
Flash Gordon Trad 45m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
STOVL Trad 25m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Screaming Teeth Right Hand Variant Trad 40m 1.23.6. Upper Tier
Croak And Dagger Trad 15m 1.25. Goldirocks
Nursery Crime Trad 15m 1.25. Goldirocks
22 * Celebrity Rooter Trad 20m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
The Crib Trad 10m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Where’s Mum? Trad 10m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
* Salami Surprise Sport 18m, 6 1.1.5. Smallgoods Area
Iron Age Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Pumping Iron Trad 28m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Rust Never Sleeps Trad 18m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Fossils In The West Trad 40m 1.5. Slander Gully
* Robins Arete (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag) Trad 14m 1.5. Slander Gully
** Seaweed Gorillas Mixed 40m, 2 1.5. Slander Gully
Tarzan's Swing (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) Trad 16m 1.5. Slander Gully
The Generator Route (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) Trad 12m 1.5. Slander Gully
Work The Meat Trad 30m 1.5. Slander Gully
* Controlled Burn Trad 14m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
* Emotional Rescue Trad 12m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Gerni To The Centre Of The Earth Trad 14m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
* Tarzan's Swing Sport 16m, 6 1.7. Curiosity Crag
The Generator Route Sport 12m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Valentine's Day Massacre Trad 25m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Benazir Trad 35m 1.8. Eagles Head
Maggie Trad 30m 1.8. Eagles Head
* Raptor Trad 18m 1.8. Eagles Head
* Ulla Trad 40m 1.8. Eagles Head
* What's Marilyn Wearing? Trad 65m 1.8. Eagles Head
*** Christendom Sport 17m 1.13. Ruined Castle
* In Praise Of Idleness Trad 40m 1.14. Out to Lunch Wall
Floaties Part II Trad 25m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
Just In Passing Trad 40m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* The Great Wall Trad 80m 1.17. Cloggy
Three Little Piggies Trad 18m 1.19.2. Shady Gully
Blown Away Trad 20m 1.19.4. Smoke Wall
** Cloud Nine Trad 30m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
Saddam Who Sucks Trad 10m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
* Something Is Out There Trad 40m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
** Oranges and Lemons Trad 35m 1.20.1. Left Wall
Reach the Breach Trad 18m 1.20.1. Left Wall
Still Cranking After All These Years Trad 22m 1.20.1. Left Wall
There's Something Wrong With My Arms Trad 35m 1.25. Goldirocks
** This Little Piggy Trad 15m 1.25. Goldirocks
Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? Trad 15m 1.26. Galaxy Crag
23 Alex Flashdance Trad 8m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
** Burnt Out Trad 17m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
Fried Day (project) Trad 20m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
* Echo Beach Mixed 20m, 4 1.1.3. Wallyworld
** Peep Show Trad 25m 1.1.3. Wallyworld
** Edge Burner Mixed 20m, 4 1.1.4. Flame Wall AKA Graham's Creek Supercrag
** Slow Burn Mixed 18m, 3 1.1.4. Flame Wall AKA Graham's Creek Supercrag
Pepperoni Crack Trad 10m 1.1.5. Smallgoods Area
* Smokin’ Guns Sport 14m, 5 1.1.5. Smallgoods Area
** Incarceration Trad 45m 1.4. The Flatiron
** Iron Side Trad 18m 1.4. The Flatiron
Neil's Project Trad 17m 1.4. The Flatiron
Sand Iron Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
Swarf Trad 9m 1.4. The Flatiron
** Careful with that Axe, Liam (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) Trad 30m 1.5. Slander Gully
* Golden Gaytime Trad 25m 1.5. Slander Gully
** Taste of Husky Trad 60m 1.6. Mt Pox
* Ab Slab Sport 15m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
** Careful With That Axe, Liam Sport 30m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
* Cat Scratch Fever Trad 30m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
* Catatonia Trad 32m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Tarzan Swing Densei Link up Sport 18m, 8 1.7. Curiosity Crag
** The Lynx Effect Trad 30m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
BITG Variant Start Trad 1.8. Eagles Head
*** Discipline and Punish Trad 55m 1.8. Eagles Head
* Eat It Trad 25m 1.8. Eagles Head
** The Lash Trad 25m 1.8. Eagles Head
Doomsday Destination Mixed 30m, 2 1.10. Back And Beyond
Jungle Jellies Trad 20m 1.13. Ruined Castle
* The First Crusade Pitch 2 Sport 20m, 7 1.13. Ruined Castle
** The First Crusade Pitch 3 Sport 17m, 7 1.13. Ruined Castle
An Other Trad 25m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
Me Old Mate Darth Trad 35m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
** Tortology Trad 25m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* But I Didn't Inhale Mixed 18m, 4 1.19.4. Smoke Wall
* I Hear the Rain Trad 35m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
* Someone Keeps Moving My Chair Trad 25m 1.19.6. Hypokinesic Wall
* Carnivore Trad 40m 1.19.7. Thylacine Wall
* Desert Storm Trad 23m 1.19.10. War Wall
Mum's Route (Never Stop Gibbin' Direct) Sport 30m 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
** Fingering the Dyke Trad 30m 1.19.14. The Chilly Bin
** Flashman Trad 35m 1.20.1. Left Wall
* Fisherman's Basket Trad 18m 1.20.2. Right Wall
** The Rite of Spring Trad 40m 1.22. Death March Wall
* Big Bad Wolf Trad 35m 1.25. Goldirocks
Butt Medler Trad 22m 1.25. Goldirocks
Butt Medler (for the Boys) Trad 22m 1.25. Goldirocks
24 ** Elle McFerret Trad 18m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
* Ralph's Journey Trad 16m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
** Out of Control Trad 24m 1.1.4. Flame Wall AKA Graham's Creek Supercrag
* Is Don Is Good Sport 17m, 5 1.1.5. Smallgoods Area
** Permanently Creased Trad 14m 1.4. The Flatiron
Densei (don't use - to be moved to Curiosity Crag node) Trad 15m 1.5. Slander Gully
The Fight to be Male Trad 25m 1.5. Slander Gully
*** Cat Power Trad 36m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
* Densei Sport 15m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
District Nursing Service Trad 20m 1.8. Eagles Head
** Blood Letter Sport 17m, 8 1.13. Ruined Castle
** Catapult Sport 15m, 5 1.13. Ruined Castle
Fruit Punch Sport 17m, 6 1.13. Ruined Castle
** Game of Thrones Sport 15m, 6 1.13. Ruined Castle
*** Jerusalem Sport 17m, 6 1.13. Ruined Castle
* War Horse Sport 19m, 7 1.13. Ruined Castle
* The Boys That Were Naughty Trad 15m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
Up Through the Down Door Trad 15m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
You're Busted Trad 30m 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* Greasy Kiwi Trad 30m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
** Imminent Thunder Trad 45m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
* Welsh Grabbit Trad 25m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
** Leaps and Bounds Trad 25m 1.19.6. Hypokinesic Wall
* Touching the Tiger Trad 35m 1.19.7. Thylacine Wall
Pumping Mutton Trad 15m 1.19.8. Trans-Tasman Gully
* Licorice All Sportz Sport 18m 1.19.9. Sportz Wall
Sporting Chance Sport 15m 1.19.9. Sportz Wall
* Andy Warwall Trad 25m 1.19.10. War Wall
** Stalingrad Trad 23m 1.19.10. War Wall
** Chess Nerds Unite Mixed 30m, 1 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
* Mitra e Bello Trad 20m 1.19.14. The Chilly Bin
* The Gloaming Sport 20m 1.19.14. The Chilly Bin
The Monstrous Regiment of Women Trad 30m 1.19.14. The Chilly Bin
* Grey Ghosts Trad 22m 1.20.1. Left Wall
Metal Edged Trad 30m 1.20.1. Left Wall
* China Beach Trad 20m 1.20.2. Right Wall
Free For All Unknown 20m 1.27. Freestone Rocks
25 * Ants Pants Trad 15m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
* Extreme Ironing Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Iron Will Unknown 20m 1.4. The Flatiron
Rob project Trad 50m 1.4. The Flatiron
Turkish Bath Trad 25m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Give Me Aids Mixed 20m, 1 1.5. Slander Gully
** Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat Sport 30m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
** The Organiser Sport 12m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
** Electra, Ring Your Mother Trad 50m 1.8. Eagles Head
** Venus Aphrodites Trad 45m 1.8. Eagles Head
** Emphysema Sport 15m, 6 1.13. Ruined Castle
Bulgy Face (project) Trad 18m 1.15. The Snack Bar
** Yurtle the Turtle Mixed 25m, 1 1.16. Tortoise Wall
* Spoil Sportz Sport 18m 1.19.9. Sportz Wall
Sportz & All Trad 18m 1.19.9. Sportz Wall
Borg Sport 15m, 7 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
* Mitra e Bello/The Gloaming Direct link up Trad 30m 1.19.14. The Chilly Bin
* Sultry Slots Sport 30m, 7 1.19.14. The Chilly Bin
** The Gloaming Direct Trad 30m 1.19.14. The Chilly Bin
* Pulling on Diamonds Trad 22m 1.20.1. Left Wall
26 ** Battling The Bulge Trad 17m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
** Klytus Trad 17m 1.1.1. Good Friday Gully
** Flaming Lips Mixed 30m, 8 1.1.4. Flame Wall AKA Graham's Creek Supercrag
HB Roof Trad 50m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Malcolm's Roof/Crack Trad 20m 1.4. The Flatiron
** Screaming Trees Trad 25m 1.7. Curiosity Crag
Growling Dog Sport 14m, 5 1.13. Ruined Castle
** Siege Machine Sport 20m, 7 1.13. Ruined Castle
** Bad Boys Sport 15m, 6 1.16. Tortoise Wall
*** Yurtle the Turtle Direct Finish Mixed 25m, 2 1.16. Tortoise Wall
** Pluvius Trad 30m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
*** Red Rain Trad 35m 1.19.5. Red Rain Wall
27 *** Body Attack Unknown 30m 1.4. The Flatiron
* Cherry Boy Trad 20m 1.8. Eagles Head
The Chinstrap Gobbler Trad 30m 1.11. HB Wall
** Completely Out to Lunch Trad 40m 1.14. Out to Lunch Wall
* Here Comes the Storm Trad 22m 1.19.1. Goat Crag
* Don't Make a Monster of Your Mind Sport 15m, 6 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
** Proprioception Lost Sport 15m, 5 1.19.13. Begegnung Wall
** Sleazy Slimpers Sport 30m, 9 1.19.14. The Chilly Bin
28 * Steves Project Trad 20m 1.1.4. Flame Wall AKA Graham's Creek Supercrag
Steve Project Trad 1.4. The Flatiron
29 ** Tantalus Released Sport 20m, 7 1.1.4. Flame Wall AKA Graham's Creek Supercrag
** The Thin Red Line Trad 20m 1.1.4. Flame Wall AKA Graham's Creek Supercrag
? Another Jono route? Trad 25m 1.4. The Flatiron
Corner crack - project Rob Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
Project - Rob Trad 15m 1.4. The Flatiron
Underwear Ironing - project Trad 1.4. The Flatiron
The Natural Alternative Trad 15m 1.8. Eagles Head
R Project Trad 12m 1.4. The Flatiron