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Description

400m to the left of Sandinista Wall

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V6 Wife Beater Boulder

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height. Starts left of 'Feminst Theory'.

2

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height.

3
V5 Feminist Theory Boulder

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height. Starts left of 'Woman at Point Zero'.

4
V9 *** Orca Boulder 9m

Left arete of the main boulder - 4m left of CM. First ascent by Julien Saunders.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

5
V8 *** Critical Mass Boulder

Central line up the face 4m left of WWE

6

Right arete of main block

7
V2 The Tunnel Boulder

Takes a line on the face right of the 'Wet With Excitement' arete.

8
V2 The Train Boulder

Problem right of 'The Tunnel' just left of the arete.

9
V3 The Conductor Boulder
10
V0 Unnamed Boulder

Takes the lower arete of the Orca boulder. Walk downhill to the right of 'Wet With Excitement'.

11
V4 * Fern Gully Boulder
12
V6 ** Fatigue Boulder
13
V6 * With Open Arms Boulder
14
V8 Rough Trade Boulder
15
V5 Mark's Problem Boulder
16
V3 ** Sputnik Boulder
17
V4 *** Towering Inferno Boulder 8m

Very high slab tucked away below and left of the Orca boulder

18
V5 Bad Moon Rising Boulder
19
V4 Quaken Boulder
20
V2 Son of Quaken Boulder
21
V8 ** Chk Chk Boom Boulder
22
V5 *** Swedish Meatballs Boulder
23
V3 * Girls of Ararat Boulder
24
V3 * St David Boulder
25
V5 ** Maple Boulder
26
V7 The Disgruntler Boulder
27