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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
13 Bullamakanka Trad 15m
2
13 Twisties Trad 15m
5
15 Tightrope Act Trad 20m
6
15 Radar Trad 15m

FA: Walter Berger, Steve Bennett, 1988

7
12 Raindogs Trad 22m

FA: Bruce Somerfield, Phil Robertson, Clare Robertson, Tony Sands, 1987

8
19 * Chocolate Frog Trad 10m

This was originally graded 17 as the FA was quite straight-forward on hand jams. Repeats found it quite a bit harder, maybe because they were laybacking?

FA: James McIntosh, Paul Woolger, Stuart Willis, 1987

10
19 Caramello Koala Trad 13m
11
24 * Jelly Baby Trad 15m
12
21 * Gunga Din Trad 25m

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, 1983

14
23 * Flying Blind Trad 25m

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, 1983

15
14 Sirdar Trad 25m

FA: Michael Wust, C Stewart, 1983

16
14 Gone Troppo Trad 18m

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust, 1983

17
18 Little Black Sambo Trad 15m
18
7 R Take Your Pick Trad 22m

Has some loose rock.

FA: Bruce Somerfield, Phil Benson, 1988

19
16 Cucumber Sandwich Trad 28m

This looks quite ok!

FA: Michael Wust, Kevin Lindorff, 1983

20
13 Can't See Trad 30m
21
13 Mongoose Trad 20m

FA: Michael Wust, Kevin Lindorff, 1983

22
15 Go Mode Trad 20m

FA: Wayne Maher, Iain Sedgman, Heather Philips, 1985

23

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust, 1983

25
13 Asian Suckoff Trad 16m
26
8 Arrete Trad 20m

FA: Wayne Maher, Iain Sedgman, 1985

27
18 Mr Ed Trad 16m
28
25 Gunga Din DS Mixed 5m, 1

FA: Scott Camps, 1987

29
19 Chocolate Frog RHV Trad 10m

Originally graded 17 (as was Chocolate Frog), so the grade has been bumped up by the same amount. Could someone please repeat both in the same day and provide feedback?! It is also believed that Peter Stebbins may have done a direct start into this line past a bolt, at grade 19. Confirmation of this would also be appreciated.

FA: Stuart Willis, James McIntosh, Paul Woolger, 1987

30
Unknown Trad

Never written up, but reportedly a route has been done up the beautiful wall halfway along the 'Cucumber Sandwich' traverse.