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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
13 Bullamakanka Trad 15m
2
13 Twisties Trad 15m
5
15 Tightrope Act Trad 20m
6
15 Radar Trad 15m

FA: Walter Berger, Steve Bennett, 1988

7
12 Raindogs Trad 22m

FA: Bruce Somerfield, Phil Robertson, Clare Robertson, Tony Sands, 1987

8
19 * Chocolate Frog Trad 10m

This was originally graded 17 as the FA was quite straight-forward on hand jams. Repeats found it quite a bit harder, maybe because they were laybacking?

FA: James McIntosh, Paul Woolger, Stuart Willis, 1987

10
19 Caramello Koala Trad 13m
11
24 * Jelly Baby Trad 15m
12
21 * Gunga Din Trad 25m

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, 1983

14
23 * Flying Blind Trad 25m

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, 1983

15
14 Sirdar Trad 25m

FA: Michael Wust, C Stewart, 1983

16
14 Gone Troppo Trad 18m

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust, 1983

17
18 Little Black Sambo Trad 15m
18
7 R Take Your Pick Trad 22m

Has some loose rock.

FA: Bruce Somerfield, Phil Benson, 1988

19
16 Cucumber Sandwich Trad 28m

This looks quite ok!

FA: Michael Wust, Kevin Lindorff, 1983

20
13 Can't See Trad 30m
21
13 Mongoose Trad 20m

FA: Michael Wust, Kevin Lindorff, 1983

22
15 Go Mode Trad 20m

FA: Wayne Maher, Iain Sedgman, Heather Philips, 1985

23

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust, 1983

25
13 Asian Suckoff Trad 16m
26
8 Arrete Trad 20m

FA: Wayne Maher, Iain Sedgman, 1985

27
18 Mr Ed Trad 16m
28
25 Gunga Din DS Mixed 5m, 1

FA: Scott Camps, 1987

29
19 Chocolate Frog RHV Trad 10m

Originally graded 17 (as was Chocolate Frog), so the grade has been bumped up by the same amount. Could someone please repeat both in the same day and provide feedback?! It is also believed that Peter Stebbins may have done a direct start into this line past a bolt, at grade 19. Confirmation of this would also be appreciated.

FA: Stuart Willis, James McIntosh, Paul Woolger, 1987

30
Unknown Trad

Never written up, but reportedly a route has been done up the beautiful wall halfway along the 'Cucumber Sandwich' traverse.