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Description

One of the most popular sport crags in the 'Grampians' - and one of the easiest to get to. Recent bolting (and retrobolting) has created a popular and busy little sector which contrasts nicely with the original old school trad routes. There is a wide variety of styles and grades so that most climbers would be pretty happy spending a day in this delightful shaded glen. The rock is extremely featured with large pockets and seams but can vary in quality with the lower section of the main wall suffering from sandy rock. Some expansion bolts have become loose over time - so take care, and if adding new routes please use glue-ins.

Historically this area has been one of the most developed crags at 'Hollow Mountain'. In 1983 the Lindorff brothers established the two infuriatingly thin face routes of 'Airplay' (21) and 'Levitation' (22) as well as the undeservedly ignored 'No Fixed Address' (21). A few years later Louise Shepherd established one of the first of the hard routes in the area with her bold ascent of 'Amnesty International' (24). Her partner on this route, Steve Monks, added his own wicked creation, the drought affected 'Chinese Water Torture' (22). In the early 90s Martin Lama and Graeme Smith added two variations to a theme on the 'Airplay' wall. 'Julia Roberts' (21) and 'Infinite Dreams' (22) were the result. In 1993 James McIntosh lead his way through choss and moss to create his own version of the 'Lost Arrow' spire (15). Seven years later Ray Lassman and Keith Lockwood boldly climbed the arete right of the main wall to produce No Fixed Gear (18). Unfortunately this route lasted less than twelve months before it was unknowingly retrobolted by Dianne Fermi to create the aptly named 'Amnesia' (17). This act heralded a near explosion of new route activity by a new younger generation of sport climbers. Matt Brooks returned with a vengeance establishing one of the hardest routes outside of 'Sandinista' Wall with his 'United Nations' (30). He also added the very popular 'The Tyrants Grasp' (22) and 'Freedom Fighter' (27). David Isaacs created further controversy by bolting a crack/seam to create 'Sting' Like A Bee (24). Recent years have seen the rest of the real estate slowly being filled by extensions, linkups and the usual. This area has become one of the more popular sport crags in the 'Grampians'.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

The most foolproof approach from the 'Hollow Mountain' car park is to follow the 'Hollow Mountain' Summit tourist trail to the base of 'Sandinista' Wall, then walk R along the base of the cliffs for about 80m to the 'Moral Vandal' Block, and keep going another 50m or so to emerge in this shady amphitheatre with a heavily pocketed central wall. A more direct and quicker approach, if you know the trails, is to turn right off the 'Hollow Mountain' Summit tourist trail about 150m before you get to 'Sandinista' Wall, and walk right about 100m under Gun Buttress, and then stumble 50m up the right end of Gun Buttress to pop into Amnesty Amphitheatre.

This area keeps fairly dry in light rain - but tends to seep after extended liquid downfalls. The routes get morning sun, however many routes will be shady most of the day as they lie under the tree line.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Activity

Check out what is happening in Amnesty Wall Area.