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Description

A little piece of English gritstone tucked away below the treeline just north of the mighty 'Sandinista' Wall. These short routes are only worth doing on the way to other climbing areas and are also suitable for top-roping. The crag gets little sun apart from early in the morning.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

Follow small track right from 'Sandinista' Wall for 30m to find the blocky north east facing Pensioners Wall and south facing bolted boulder of 'Moral Vandal' Block.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The corner which veers left then back right to the top. Harder than it looks and a bit vegetated.

Start: About 30m right of 'Etendard', in the gully formed by the 'Moral Vandal' block the gully widens to permit climbing on the left wall. About 15m into the gully. Guidebook editor could not locate this climb!

FA: Greg Davies, Garry Wills, Isa ? & Stan Kucik, 1988

Start off the ledge with a hard move to the pocket (if you're tall enough you can probably reach the pocket from the ledge): continue. Guidebook editor could not locate this climb.

Start: On the right of the gully a round boulder sits on a ledge 2m off the ground. Opposite the boulder is an overhanging line formed by an 'obvious' pocket, flake and crack through the bulge.

FA: Peter Martin & Stan Kucik, 1988

The balancy face on the far left of 'Moral Vandal' Block with a BR (no piking around the arete). Finish up the seam on the right.

FA: James Falla & Mike Myers, 2000

Shocking pile of poo. The guidebook author walked past this three times before realizing it was actually a climb! Old school chimney for dwarfs.

Start: East facing wall 12m right of 'Sedition'. Don't get it mixed up with the boulder problems surrounding it.

FA: Jack Lewis & Peter Baker, 1992

Really worthless. Short and loose.

Start: Climb the line through the bulges 4m right of 'Ignition', entered from the right. Dodgy block.

FA: Jack Lewis & Peter Baker, 1992

Very good technical gritstone-like climbing.

Start: The central line on this wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorf, 2000

Bouldery start. Take some RP's.

Start: 2.5m left of 'Moral Vandal' at rightward leaning seam/thin crack. Up this to join original after BR.

FA: Adam Darragh, 1989

Packs it in for a short route and is also reminiscent of technical gritstone. Would get a few more stars if it wasn't an overgrown boulder.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Moral Vandal' at right edge of block. Marked.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983

Right variant to 'Sedition'. Much easier than the former route.

FA: Dave Mudie & Lionel Clay, 2000

Activity

Check out what is happening in Pensioners Wall Area.