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A little piece of English gritstone tucked away below the treeline just north of the mighty 'Sandinista' Wall. These short routes are only worth doing on the way to other climbing areas and are also suitable for top-roping. The crag gets little sun apart from early in the morning.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park


Follow small track right from 'Sandinista' Wall for 30m to find the blocky north east facing Pensioners Wall and south facing bolted boulder of 'Moral Vandal' Block.

© (nmonteith)


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
19 Old Men Trad 20m

The corner which veers left then back right to the top. Harder than it looks and a bit vegetated.

Start: About 30m right of 'Etendard', in the gully formed by the 'Moral Vandal' block the gully widens to permit climbing on the left wall. About 15m into the gully. Guidebook editor could not locate this climb!

FA: Greg Davies, Garry Wills, Isa ?, Stan Kucik, 1988

20 Young Fancies Trad 15m

Start off the ledge with a hard move to the pocket (if you're tall enough you can probably reach the pocket from the ledge): continue. Guidebook editor could not locate this climb.

Start: On the right of the gully a round boulder sits on a ledge 2m off the ground. Opposite the boulder is an overhanging line formed by an 'obvious' pocket, flake and crack through the bulge.

FA: Peter Martin & Stan Kucik, 1988

18 Allied Rat Mixed 10m, 1

The balancy face on the far left of 'Moral Vandal' Block with a BR (no piking around the arete). Finish up the seam on the right.

FA: James Falla & Mike Myers, 2000

8 Ignition Trad 16m

Shocking pile of poo. The guidebook author walked past this three times before realizing it was actually a climb! Old school chimney for dwarfs.

Start: East facing wall 12m right of 'Sedition'. Don't get it mixed up with the boulder problems surrounding it.

FA: Jack Lewis & Peter Baker, 1992

12 Overhaul Trad 13m

Really worthless. Short and loose.

Start: Climb the line through the bulges 4m right of 'Ignition', entered from the right. Dodgy block.

FA: Jack Lewis & Peter Baker, 1992

22 Sleaze Master Trad 10m
21 Moral Vandal Mixed 10m, 1

Very good technical gritstone-like climbing.

Start: The central line on this wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorf, 2000


Bouldery start. Take some RP's.

Start: 2.5m left of 'Moral Vandal' at rightward leaning seam/thin crack. Up this to join original after BR.

FA: Adam Darragh, 1989

24 * Sedition Mixed 10m, 2

Packs it in for a short route and is also reminiscent of technical gritstone. Would get a few more stars if it wasn't an overgrown boulder.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Moral Vandal' at right edge of block. Marked.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983

24 Turpitude Mixed 10m, 2

Right variant to 'Sedition'. Much easier than the former route.

FA: Dave Mudie & Lionel Clay, 2000