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Description

A steep little crag of strong lines tucked away below the trees underneath Sandinista Wall. This could be called Lindorff Crag as Kevin was involved in almost every one of these routes. His trademark hard grading and technical crack moves are a feature of this area. It's a shame that the best routes on this crag all feature an awkward tree scramble to get started. This is one of the only cliffs in this area that is suitable for top-roping, due to the easy top access, although some routes are too steep to toprope. Some excellent bouldering has been done on the left side. This place is protected from light rain and gets morning sun although the trees keep it generally shady for most of the day.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

Easily approached by leaving the track 50m before the Sandinista Cliff and heading right on a well worn track (which heads to Anderson's bouldering area). 50m along this track the wall will be visible on the left. Almost all routes are marked with a small white painted initial. Descent for all climbs is down the right side via a small track. Routes are described left to right.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Loaded Mixed 20m, 1

Why did Kevin bother with this pathetic excuse for a bolted boulder problem? One crap bolt also scars what could have been an all trad crag.

Start: Towards the far left end of the cliff is an alcove with a large sandy boulder. This is the left leaning line marked with white paint.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983

2
18 ** Black Powder Trad 15m

A chossy, vegetated and overhanging diagonal.

Start: 2m right of 'Loaded'. Marked.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

3
14 ** Buckshot Trad 25m

More un-inspirational stuff.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Black Powder'.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1985

4
22 No Pasaran Trad 15m

One move wonder down low.

Start: The overhanging blocky crack 10m right of 'Buckshot'. Finish up the left leaning juggy crack to ledge.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kevin Lindorff, 1985

5
27 ** Crazy Da Must Sing Trad 18m

Excellent climbing with a very technical finish. One of the only Scott Camps projects that he actually managed to get up!

FA: Scott Camps & Peter Griffen, 1988

6
23 ** Powder Monkey Trad 20m

It's short but desperate. One of the only true finger-cracks in the area.

Start: The overhanging thin crack 3m right of 'Crazy Da Must Sing' and in the centre of the crag. A large hold snapped off a few years ago, making it one grade harder, and giving the belayer a fair injury, but it could've killed him 30cm to the left.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

7

Steep, powerful and bloody awkward for gym bunnies.

Start: Starts a few metres right of 'Powder Monkey' on the right edge of ledge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

8
21 ** Cannon Fodder Trad 20m

Brutal boulder problem intro and easy finish.

Start: Starts beneath the left of the twin recessed corners which start halfway up the cliff on the big ledge just right of Karma-lites.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1983

10
19 ** Kalashnikov Trad 20m

Thrutch fest!

Start: The right hand of the two corners.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1983

12
18 Primed Trad 20m

A total sandbag with a finish that is rather exciting.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Kalashnikov'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

13

Short bouldery start which eases considerably in the upper half.

Start: Starts around 6m right of 'Primed'.

FA: Peter Martin, Gary Wills, Dick Evans & Peter Megans, 1988

14
22 Pomme Vert Trad 10m

A contrived and pointless bouldery start leads to a good variant finish to 'Greyhounds In Space'.

Start: Start 3m right of Greyhounds.

FA: Richard Kirk, Jean Marc Durand & Adam Darragh, 1989

15
21 ** Julia Roberts Trad 15m

Nice face route. A bit short.

Start: Start 4m left of 'Levitation' at far left end of wall.

FA: Graeme Smith & Martin Lama, 1992

16
21 ** Levitation Trad 17m

Wickedly hard start. Thin wall special up tortoise shell rock.

Start: Marked. Goes up the middle of a small north facing wall that you pass on the left on your way into the Amphitheatre.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

17
21 ** Airplay Trad 25m

Another pumpy thin face on excellent shell rock.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Levitation'. Marked.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983

18
22 ** Infinite Dreams Trad 20m

Squeezed in.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Airplay', just left of corner.

FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1992

19

Short and ordinary.

Start: Start about 8m around right of 'Airplay' and 4m left of a wide scrubby corner.

FA: Melanie & James McIntosh, 1989