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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Scary and mossy.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'Far Left'.

FA: Andrew the Queenslander & Lars Lundston, 1990

This is probably the easiest route up the 'Red Wall' and it takes an obvious feature.

Start: Start 5m left of 'Fretilin' at the slender detached flake which had scared off numerous climbers for at least a decade. It took a couple of S.A. climbers to bag this much considered feature.

FA: Sandy Hancock & Carolyn Baldwin, 1989

The first ascentists on this route should be warning enough!

Start: Start towards the left end of the wall.

FA: Robin Miller & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

Boulder up the wall to join Fretlin.

FA: Lars Lundston & Huw Lewis, 1990

NOT the 'Nowra' classic!

Start: Start 4m right of Fretlin.

FA: Jonathan Barton & J. Naylor, 1990

Anyone for repeating a Lindorff solo?

Start: 10m left of 'The Undertow' is a large block/boulder (the boulder up right from Golden Showers). 'Frelimo' takes the centre of the face which looks towards the picnic site.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1983

The curving flake behind Fremlimo. A technical little number.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Ochre Express'.

FA: Andrew Stevens, 1991

Scene of a mild bolt war when Nyrie Dodd retro-bolted this all trad route in 1990. The Nati crew (Steve Monks, HB et al) stormed the cliff in 1992 and removed the offending iron mongery and peace returned to the land.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Curvaceous' on the right side of the 'Red Wall'.

FA: Jon Bassindale (his first new route in Oz!) & Annette Jones, 1989

Hardly worth recording. Possibly climbed by a touron in the dim dark past.

Start: Start at the right hand end of 'Red Wall' about 20m right of Vandles. 'Obvious' scoop in grey rock with huge jugs. Follow scoop to top.

FA: Peter Holmes & Mel Reynolds, 1995

The first ascent saw a nice winger thanks to a detachable finishing hold. 'Almost' a sport route.

Start: Start 10m left of 'The Stone Roses', below a BR.

FA: Andrew Stevens, 1991

Head up to the cave, then straight up sandy crimpers past a dubious fixed thread. Run-out by all reports.

Start: Start as for 'Golden Showers' just left of the arete.

FA: Steve Monks & Lydia Brady, 1985

A bit of a non-event.

Start: Starts 5m left of 'Rip Tide' below thin seams. Blocky corner is 2m left.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1991

Short, bolted and easy for the grade. Should be more popular! Originally climbed on trad it was then subsequently retro-bolted by Peter & Andrew Stevens one year later.

Start: The short overhanging wall opposite 'Red Wall'.

FA: Lars Lundston (Norway), 1990

A novelty classic up an exposed prow.

Start: Start just left of the overhanging arete on the right side of the Echo's block, which is downhill and 15m left from 'Rip Tide'. A faint painted 'cave' sign is visible at the start.

FA: Andrew Corlass & John Sonczak (UK), 1986

Fantastic features up steep wall.

Start: Start as for 'Echoes' at right side of sandy cave.

FA: Lydia Brady & Steve Monks, 1985

The 'obvious' line that cuts diagonally across the wall right of 'Filtons Folly' via a 'blowhole'.

Start: Start 4m right of 'Filtons Folly' at small corner crack.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1978

Fairly good climbing but a bit contrived.

Start: Leave 'Echoes' a few metres past the cave and head straight up the wall to the right hand white streak to the summit.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1989

One of the best jam cracks in the Stapylton area. A good old-fashioned line and the first climbed on the 'Hollow Mountain' side of Stapylton. It was written up by two other groups (including Noddy) before the real first ascent was discovered.

Start: Starts 15m left of 'Golden Showers' at landmark right facing corner crack.

FA: John Filton, Dana Anderson, Sharon Kinnison & Paul Kinnison, 1973

The elegant perfect arete left of 'Filtons Folly'.

Start: Start on either side of the arete. The left side requires bridging off the tree. The right side is more pleasant but has a nasty ankle breaking rock in the fall zone.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983

Deceptively awkward slab mantling.

Start: Marked by white square. Takes the face 3m left of 'I Surrender'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983

Old school off-width.

Start: Starts 8m left of 'Civilian Casualties' at entrance of tourist tunnel.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977

Not exactly 'Thunder Crack'.

Start: Starts as for 'Stiff Opposition'.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Gabrielle Pellisier, 1978

Straight up the steep wall to a ledge at 10m, step left, and up to the top.

Start: Start as for 'The Big Red Hen'.

FA: Andrew Stevens & Kate Aldridge, 1991

Confusing location! This is the original access description. Climb was not located by editor.

Start: Take the walking track to the top of the 'Sandinista' cliff. Walk about 100m left to another terrace directly above where the track starts to climb through the 'Sandinista' cliff. Start just left of of a left leading diagonal, which has an 'antler' at the top

FA: Stuart Willis & Geoff Baudinette, 1987

The big overhanging nose, starting on the left and traversing right to a mantle topout.

Starts on the rightside of the prow - right underneath (sit-start) with pockets of your choice. Head directly out to the lip and topout via the mantle. An excellent problem at the grade.

A shorter version of the previous problem, eliminating the low start.

Sit-start under the roof and head out to the lip to the obvious pocket on the slab - then mantle to glory.

The direct finish to the previous problem up a bit of blankness just right of the pocket.

Sit-start right underneath the roof on the big block (handjam). Head directly out to the big edge near the lip, then left across a sloper and good edge to a lefthand sidepull. Dyno up and right for a sloper sidepull in the groove, then slap (or lock) lefthand to the finish jug.

A funny little thing residing behind the 'Font Mantle' Block. Get in there somehow and traverse leftwards across the face to finish up the slight crack.

On the slightly overhanging face right of 'The Font Mantle' block. Sit-start (or crouched!) on a good horizontal jug, then traverse right (staying low) along the lip - then up around the nose to finish on a jug.

Same start as for 'Fallen Cow' - but lock up into good diagonal 'grooves' before heading right around the nose.

A direct line starting with a sit/crouch start halfway out along the Fallen Cow traverseline, then climbing through this to join the finish of 'Carlton' Coldie.

Sit-start under the 'flat' roof just where the XXXX graffiti resides. Sharp pocket and hopeless edge, then up and slightly left, finishing as for 'Fallen Cow'.

Not your average walk-in-the-park V1! 'Steep' - starting off the big 'hanging' fridge (a tad sandy) - then heading up via any holds of your choosing. Finish as for 'Fallen Cow'.

A problem located in the depths of the cave (walk in just right of Railcross)

Very steep arete on the boulder facing the walking track. Shallow pocket and edge to start, then a dynamic move to a good large pocket/jug, then up arete and onto right face via series of good edges.

Even more committing! The central line up the slab. Technical and scary.

Highball LH arete on the big boulder just opposite the start of the arete climb 'Golden Showers and Group Sex'. Committing.

Start right in the back of the cave and head directly out to the lip, and a very slopey mantle topout. Desperate! Good training for 'Circus Jerkus'...

Steep problem right of the right arete, ending in a mantle. Grade unknown.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block.