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Table of contents

1. Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block 47 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.382906, -36.892218

Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fear And Looping

Scary and mossy.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'Far Left'.

FA: Andrew the Queenslander & Lars Lundston, 1990

21 XTrad 32m
2 * Far Left

This is probably the easiest route up the 'Red Wall' and it takes an obvious feature.

Start: Start 5m left of 'Fretilin' at the slender detached flake which had scared off numerous climbers for at least a decade. It took a couple of S.A. climbers to bag this much considered feature.

FA: Sandy Hancock & Carolyn Baldwin, 1989

18Trad 30m
3 Fretilin

The first ascentists on this route should be warning enough!

Start: Start towards the left end of the wall.

FA: Robin Miller & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

21 RTrad 30m
4 Fretilin Direct Start

Boulder up the wall to join Fretlin.

FA: Lars Lundston & Huw Lewis, 1990

22 RTrad 30m
5 The Stone Roses

NOT the 'Nowra' classic!

Start: Start 4m right of Fretlin.

FA: Jonathan Barton & J. Naylor, 1990

24Mixed 25m, 1
6 ** Frelimo

Anyone for repeating a Lindorff solo?

Start: 10m left of 'The Undertow' is a large block/boulder (the boulder up right from Golden Showers). 'Frelimo' takes the centre of the face which looks towards the picnic site.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1983

18 RTrad 10m
7 * Curvaceous

The curving flake behind Fremlimo. A technical little number.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Ochre Express'.

FA: Andrew Stevens, 1991

21Mixed 20m, 2
8 Timeless and Onion aka Vandals Took The Handles

Scene of a mild bolt war when Nyrie Dodd retro-bolted this all trad route in 1990. The Nati crew (Steve Monks, HB et al) stormed the cliff in 1992 and removed the offending iron mongery and peace returned to the land.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Curvaceous' on the right side of the 'Red Wall'.

FA: Jon Bassindale (his first new route in Oz!) & Annette Jones, 1989

20Trad 15m
9 Scoop

Hardly worth recording. Possibly climbed by a touron in the dim dark past.

Start: Start at the right hand end of 'Red Wall' about 20m right of Vandles. 'Obvious' scoop in grey rock with huge jugs. Follow scoop to top.

FA: Peter Holmes & Mel Reynolds, 1995

5Trad 15m
10 * Ochre Express

The first ascent saw a nice winger thanks to a detachable finishing hold. 'Almost' a sport route.

Start: Start 10m left of 'The Stone Roses', below a BR.

FA: Andrew Stevens, 1991

23Mixed 20m, 3
11 Sounds Of Silence

Head up to the cave, then straight up sandy crimpers past a dubious fixed thread. Run-out by all reports.

Start: Start as for 'Golden Showers' just left of the arete.

FA: Steve Monks & Lydia Brady, 1985

21 RTrad 20m
12 The Undertow

A bit of a non-event.

Start: Starts 5m left of 'Rip Tide' below thin seams. Blocky corner is 2m left.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1991

23Mixed 10m, 1
13 Vandals Took The Handles 20Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 * Rip Tide

Short, bolted and easy for the grade. Should be more popular! Originally climbed on trad it was then subsequently retro-bolted by Peter & Andrew Stevens one year later.

Start: The short overhanging wall opposite 'Red Wall'.

FA: Lars Lundston (Norway), 1990

24Mixed 10m, 3
15 ** Golden Showers and Group Sex

A novelty classic up an exposed prow.

Start: Start just left of the overhanging arete on the right side of the Echo's block, which is downhill and 15m left from 'Rip Tide'. A faint painted 'cave' sign is visible at the start.

FA: Andrew Corlass, John Sonczak (UK), 1986

20Mixed 21m, 3
16 * Wall Of Noise

Fantastic features up steep wall.

Start: Start as for 'Echoes' at right side of sandy cave.

FA: Lydia Brady & Steve Monks, 1985

18 RMixed 20m, 1
17 * Echoes

The 'obvious' line that cuts diagonally across the wall right of 'Filtons Folly' via a 'blowhole'.

Start: Start 4m right of 'Filtons Folly' at small corner crack.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1978

17Trad 35m
18 Echoes Direct Finish

Fairly good climbing but a bit contrived.

Start: Leave 'Echoes' a few metres past the cave and head straight up the wall to the right hand white streak to the summit.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1989

18Trad 10m
19 * Filtons Folly

One of the best jam cracks in the Stapylton area. A good old-fashioned line and the first climbed on the 'Hollow Mountain' side of Stapylton. It was written up by two other groups (including Noddy) before the real first ascent was discovered.

Start: Starts 15m left of 'Golden Showers' at landmark right facing corner crack.

FA: John Filton, Dana Anderson, Sharon Kinnison & Paul Kinnison, 1973

17Trad 20m
20 * I Surrender

The elegant perfect arete left of 'Filtons Folly'.

Start: Start on either side of the arete. The left side requires bridging off the tree. The right side is more pleasant but has a nasty ankle breaking rock in the fall zone.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983

22Mixed 20m, 1
21 Civilian Casualties

Deceptively awkward slab mantling.

Start: Marked by white square. Takes the face 3m left of 'I Surrender'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983

23 RTrad 20m
22 Stiff Opposition

Old school off-width.

Start: Starts 8m left of 'Civilian Casualties' at entrance of tourist tunnel.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977

17Trad 20m
23 The Big Red Hen

Not exactly 'Thunder Crack'.

Start: Starts as for 'Stiff Opposition'.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Gabrielle Pellisier, 1978

11Trad 23m
24 Crunch Time

Straight up the steep wall to a ledge at 10m, step left, and up to the top.

Start: Start as for 'The Big Red Hen'.

FA: Andrew Stevens & Kate Aldridge, 1991

15Trad 18m
25 Antler

Confusing location! This is the original access description. Climb was not located by editor.

Start: Take the walking track to the top of the 'Sandinista' cliff. Walk about 100m left to another terrace directly above where the track starts to climb through the 'Sandinista' cliff. Start just left of of a left leading diagonal, which has an 'antler' at the top

FA: Stuart Willis & Geoff Baudinette, 1987

17Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 Fackeln im Sturm

The big overhanging nose, starting on the left and traversing right to a mantle topout.

V4Boulder
27 * Dra Di

Starts on the rightside of the prow - right underneath (sit-start) with pockets of your choice. Head directly out to the lip and topout via the mantle. An excellent problem at the grade.

V3Boulder
28 Schleich di

A shorter version of the previous problem, eliminating the low start.

V2Boulder
29 * Dirty Dancing

Sit-start under the roof and head out to the lip to the obvious pocket on the slab - then mantle to glory.

V5Boulder
30 Dirty Dancing Direct

The direct finish to the previous problem up a bit of blankness just right of the pocket.

V8Boulder
31 ** Schwiesspatrick

Sit-start right underneath the roof on the big block (handjam). Head directly out to the big edge near the lip, then left across a sloper and good edge to a lefthand sidepull. Dyno up and right for a sloper sidepull in the groove, then slap (or lock) lefthand to the finish jug.

V8Boulder
32 Ski Instructor wannahave Surf-babe

A funny little thing residing behind the 'Font Mantle' Block. Get in there somehow and traverse leftwards across the face to finish up the slight crack.

V4Boulder
33 ?? V6Boulder
34 Slopy Mantle VBoulder
35 Fallen Cow

On the slightly overhanging face right of 'The Font Mantle' block. Sit-start (or crouched!) on a good horizontal jug, then traverse right (staying low) along the lip - then up around the nose to finish on a jug.

V6Boulder
36 Carlton Coldie

Same start as for 'Fallen Cow' - but lock up into good diagonal 'grooves' before heading right around the nose.

V4Boulder
37 Rebel Yell

A direct line starting with a sit/crouch start halfway out along the Fallen Cow traverseline, then climbing through this to join the finish of 'Carlton' Coldie.

V4Boulder
38 XXXX

Sit-start under the 'flat' roof just where the XXXX graffiti resides. Sharp pocket and hopeless edge, then up and slightly left, finishing as for 'Fallen Cow'.

V6Boulder
39 Railcross

Not your average walk-in-the-park V1! 'Steep' - starting off the big 'hanging' fridge (a tad sandy) - then heading up via any holds of your choosing. Finish as for 'Fallen Cow'.

V1Boulder
40 Ensandinator

A problem located in the depths of the cave (walk in just right of Railcross)

V4Boulder
41 * Golden Showers and Group Sex 20Trad
42 Pocket Puncher

Very steep arete on the boulder facing the walking track. Shallow pocket and edge to start, then a dynamic move to a good large pocket/jug, then up arete and onto right face via series of good edges.

V3Boulder
43 Slab Problem

Even more committing! The central line up the slab. Technical and scary.

V3Boulder
44 Arete Problem

Highball LH arete on the big boulder just opposite the start of the arete climb 'Golden Showers and Group Sex'. Committing.

V0Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 The Font Mantle

Start right in the back of the cave and head directly out to the lip, and a very slopey mantle topout. Desperate! Good training for 'Circus Jerkus'...

V4Boulder
46 Unnamed

Steep problem right of the right arete, ending in a mantle. Grade unknown.

V0Boulder
47 Unnamed Traverse V6Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 Scoop Trad 15m
11 The Big Red Hen Trad 23m
15 Crunch Time Trad 18m
V0 Arete Problem Boulder
Unnamed Boulder
17 Antler Trad 30m
* Echoes Trad 35m
* Filtons Folly Trad 20m
Stiff Opposition Trad 20m
18 Echoes Direct Finish Trad 10m
* Far Left Trad 30m
** Frelimo Trad 10m
* Wall Of Noise Mixed 20m, 1
V1 Railcross Boulder
20 ** Golden Showers and Group Sex Mixed 21m, 3
* Golden Showers and Group Sex Trad
Timeless and Onion aka Vandals Took The Handles Trad 15m
Vandals Took The Handles Trad 15m
V2 Schleich di Boulder
21 * Curvaceous Mixed 20m, 2
Fear And Looping Trad 32m
Fretilin Trad 30m
Sounds Of Silence Trad 20m
22 Fretilin Direct Start Trad 30m
* I Surrender Mixed 20m, 1
V3 * Dra Di Boulder
Pocket Puncher Boulder
Slab Problem Boulder
23 Civilian Casualties Trad 20m
* Ochre Express Mixed 20m, 3
The Undertow Mixed 10m, 1
V4 Carlton Coldie Boulder
Ensandinator Boulder
Fackeln im Sturm Boulder
Rebel Yell Boulder
Ski Instructor wannahave Surf-babe Boulder
The Font Mantle Boulder
24 * Rip Tide Mixed 10m, 3
The Stone Roses Mixed 25m, 1
V5 * Dirty Dancing Boulder
V6 ?? Boulder
Fallen Cow Boulder
Unnamed Traverse Boulder
XXXX Boulder
V8 Dirty Dancing Direct Boulder
** Schwiesspatrick Boulder
V Slopy Mantle Boulder