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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad and Boulder
Long/Lat: 142.382906, -36.892218
- Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria:
Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)
In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.
The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.
Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.
As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.
Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:
- Central Buttress
- Grey & Green Walls
- Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
- Spurt Wall
- Epsilon Wall
- Trackside Bouldering area
- Spurt and Afterglow
Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.
Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.
Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.
For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:
Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Flat Rock
- Wonderland Range
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt William Range
- Victoria Point area
- Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt Arapiles
- Mt Talbot
- The Black Range
Please remember your climbing etiquette:
- Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
- Stick to tracks
- Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
- Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
- Be mindful of cleaning
- No chipping or bolting
- Avoid excessive chalk
- Take your rubbish home with you
Fear And Looping
Scary and mossy.
Start: Starts 2m left of 'Far Left'.
FA: Andrew the Queenslander & Lars Lundston, 1990
This is probably the easiest route up the 'Red Wall' and it takes an obvious feature.
FA: Sandy Hancock & Carolyn Baldwin, 1989
The first ascentists on this route should be warning enough!
Start: Start towards the left end of the wall.
FA: Robin Miller & Kevin Lindorff, 1983
Fretilin Direct Start
Boulder up the wall to join Fretlin.
FA: Lars Lundston & Huw Lewis, 1990
The Stone Roses
NOT the 'Nowra' classic!
Start: Start 4m right of Fretlin.
FA: Jonathan Barton & J. Naylor, 1990
Anyone for repeating a Lindorff solo?
FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1983
The curving flake behind Fremlimo. A technical little number.
Start: Starts 2m right of 'Ochre Express'.
FA: Andrew Stevens, 1991
Timeless and Onion aka Vandals Took The Handles
Scene of a mild bolt war when Nyrie Dodd retro-bolted this all trad route in 1990. The Nati crew (Steve Monks, HB et al) stormed the cliff in 1992 and removed the offending iron mongery and peace returned to the land.
Start: Starts 3m right of 'Curvaceous' on the right side of the 'Red Wall'.
FA: Jon Bassindale (his first new route in Oz!) & Annette Jones, 1989
Hardly worth recording. Possibly climbed by a touron in the dim dark past.
Start: Start at the right hand end of 'Red Wall' about 20m right of Vandles. 'Obvious' scoop in grey rock with huge jugs. Follow scoop to top.
FA: Peter Holmes & Mel Reynolds, 1995
The first ascent saw a nice winger thanks to a detachable finishing hold. 'Almost' a sport route.
Start: Start 10m left of 'The Stone Roses', below a BR.
FA: Andrew Stevens, 1991
Sounds Of Silence
Head up to the cave, then straight up sandy crimpers past a dubious fixed thread. Run-out by all reports.
Start: Start as for 'Golden Showers' just left of the arete.
FA: Steve Monks & Lydia Brady, 1985
A bit of a non-event.
Start: Starts 5m left of 'Rip Tide' below thin seams. Blocky corner is 2m left.
FA: Peter Stebbins, 1991
|13||Vandals Took The Handles||20||15m|
Short, bolted and easy for the grade. Should be more popular! Originally climbed on trad it was then subsequently retro-bolted by Peter & Andrew Stevens one year later.
Start: The short overhanging wall opposite 'Red Wall'.
FA: Lars Lundston (Norway), 1990
Golden Showers and Group Sex
A novelty classic up an exposed prow.
Start: Start just left of the overhanging arete on the right side of the Echo's block, which is downhill and 15m left from 'Rip Tide'. A faint painted 'cave' sign is visible at the start.
FA: Andrew Corlass, John Sonczak (UK), 1986
Wall Of Noise
Fantastic features up steep wall.
Start: Start as for 'Echoes' at right side of sandy cave.
FA: Lydia Brady & Steve Monks, 1985
The 'obvious' line that cuts diagonally across the wall right of 'Filtons Folly' via a 'blowhole'.
Start: Start 4m right of 'Filtons Folly' at small corner crack.
FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1978
Echoes Direct Finish
Fairly good climbing but a bit contrived.
Start: Leave 'Echoes' a few metres past the cave and head straight up the wall to the right hand white streak to the summit.
FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1989
One of the best jam cracks in the Stapylton area. A good old-fashioned line and the first climbed on the 'Hollow Mountain' side of Stapylton. It was written up by two other groups (including Noddy) before the real first ascent was discovered.
Start: Starts 15m left of 'Golden Showers' at landmark right facing corner crack.
FA: John Filton, Dana Anderson, Sharon Kinnison & Paul Kinnison, 1973
The elegant perfect arete left of 'Filtons Folly'.
Start: Start on either side of the arete. The left side requires bridging off the tree. The right side is more pleasant but has a nasty ankle breaking rock in the fall zone.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983
Deceptively awkward slab mantling.
Start: Marked by white square. Takes the face 3m left of 'I Surrender'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983
Old school off-width.
Start: Starts 8m left of 'Civilian Casualties' at entrance of tourist tunnel.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977
The Big Red Hen
Not exactly 'Thunder Crack'.
Start: Starts as for 'Stiff Opposition'.
FA: Peter Cunningham & Gabrielle Pellisier, 1978
Straight up the steep wall to a ledge at 10m, step left, and up to the top.
Start: Start as for 'The Big Red Hen'.
FA: Andrew Stevens & Kate Aldridge, 1991
Confusing location! This is the original access description. Climb was not located by editor.
Start: Take the walking track to the top of the 'Sandinista' cliff. Walk about 100m left to another terrace directly above where the track starts to climb through the 'Sandinista' cliff. Start just left of of a left leading diagonal, which has an 'antler' at the top
FA: Stuart Willis & Geoff Baudinette, 1987
Fackeln im Sturm
The big overhanging nose, starting on the left and traversing right to a mantle topout.
Starts on the rightside of the prow - right underneath (sit-start) with pockets of your choice. Head directly out to the lip and topout via the mantle. An excellent problem at the grade.
A shorter version of the previous problem, eliminating the low start.
Sit-start under the roof and head out to the lip to the obvious pocket on the slab - then mantle to glory.
Dirty Dancing Direct
The direct finish to the previous problem up a bit of blankness just right of the pocket.
Sit-start right underneath the roof on the big block (handjam). Head directly out to the big edge near the lip, then left across a sloper and good edge to a lefthand sidepull. Dyno up and right for a sloper sidepull in the groove, then slap (or lock) lefthand to the finish jug.
Ski Instructor wannahave Surf-babe
A funny little thing residing behind the 'Font Mantle' Block. Get in there somehow and traverse leftwards across the face to finish up the slight crack.
On the slightly overhanging face right of 'The Font Mantle' block. Sit-start (or crouched!) on a good horizontal jug, then traverse right (staying low) along the lip - then up around the nose to finish on a jug.
Same start as for 'Fallen Cow' - but lock up into good diagonal 'grooves' before heading right around the nose.
A direct line starting with a sit/crouch start halfway out along the Fallen Cow traverseline, then climbing through this to join the finish of 'Carlton' Coldie.
Sit-start under the 'flat' roof just where the XXXX graffiti resides. Sharp pocket and hopeless edge, then up and slightly left, finishing as for 'Fallen Cow'.
Not your average walk-in-the-park V1! 'Steep' - starting off the big 'hanging' fridge (a tad sandy) - then heading up via any holds of your choosing. Finish as for 'Fallen Cow'.
A problem located in the depths of the cave (walk in just right of Railcross)
|41||Golden Showers and Group Sex||20|
Very steep arete on the boulder facing the walking track. Shallow pocket and edge to start, then a dynamic move to a good large pocket/jug, then up arete and onto right face via series of good edges.
Even more committing! The central line up the slab. Technical and scary.
Highball LH arete on the big boulder just opposite the start of the arete climb 'Golden Showers and Group Sex'. Committing.
The Font Mantle
Start right in the back of the cave and head directly out to the lip, and a very slopey mantle topout. Desperate! Good training for 'Circus Jerkus'...
Steep problem right of the right arete, ending in a mantle. Grade unknown.
|11||The Big Red Hen||23m|
|18||Echoes Direct Finish||10m|
|Wall Of Noise||120m,|
|20||Golden Showers and Group Sex||321m,|
|Golden Showers and Group Sex|
|Timeless and Onion aka Vandals Took The Handles||15m|
|Vandals Took The Handles||15m|
|Sounds Of Silence||20m|
|21 X||Fear And Looping||32m|
|22 R||Fretilin Direct Start||30m|
|23 R||Civilian Casualties||20m|
|Fackeln im Sturm|
|Ski Instructor wannahave Surf-babe|
|The Font Mantle|
|The Stone Roses||125m,|
|V8||Dirty Dancing Direct|