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Table of contents

1. Van Dieman's Land 38 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.388859, -36.896589

Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ronin

Just your regular crazy gramps stone.

FA: kp

27Sport 20m, 7
2 * Hogadelics Anonymous

Possibly un-climbed or at least un-repeated. 10m left of 'Murder Psalm' is a flake crack which leads to a beautiful slab with two FH's. Possibly bolted by Roland Foster.

25Mixed 30m, 2
3 * Murder Psalm

Strangely this was one of the first routes bolted here. Why they walked all this way for one climb is pretty strange. Overhung blocky corner with two FH's on the blank slab above.

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Physical Graffiti'.

FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989

25Sport 25m, 7
4 * Physical Graffiti

Controversial bolted corner crack, with plenty of suss rock. Not a bad warm-up but far from a classic.

Start: Rusty-coloured corner 20m left of base of Pocketed Wall and 10m right of 'Murder Psalm'. Scramble up to a DBB at base of corner.

FA: Chris Rubecet, 1992

21Sport 15m, 4
5 ** The Naked Flame

Up off-width groove 2m right of 'Physical Graffiti' and swing right to ledge. Diagonally up wall to elegant flake. Up.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Dave Langley, Neil Mahunt, 1992

20Trad 40m
6 * Ocean Rain

Left leaning line of FHs 10m left of 'Terminal Insomnia'. Either stickclip first bolt or lean over from pinnacle. Burly traverse leads to technical climbing on gritty pockets. Motor up short corner to a climatic finish. Solid at the grade?

25Sport 25m, 8
7 * Quiet Riot

Start as Ocean Rain for a few bolts then go directly up thin grey wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff

26Sport 20m
8 * Pussy Riot

Shares a couple of moves with TI

FA: The Yerba's, 2012

24Sport 25m
9 ** Sonic Youth

A mega link-up of the entire Pocketed Wall starting from 'Terminal Insomnia' and finishing up 'Sisters of Mercy'.

Start: Start as for 'Terminal Insomnia'.

FA: Kent Paterson, Al Robertson, 2006

24Sport 30m
10 ** Terminal Insomnia

The best sport route of this grade in the 'Grampians'. Brilliant. But unfortunately it seeps very heavily after rain.

Start: Starts just left of black streak on far left end of the Pocketed Wall. Belay off sling thread in pockets.

FA: Neil Mahant, David Langley, Peter Stebbins

22Sport 30m, 5
11 ** Warped Spasm

Fantastic 'limestone style' pocket climbing up central black streak on the left side of orange wall. It's just beside a heavy seepage line, but only one hold seems to get wet.

Start: Belay as for 'Terminal Insomnia' at thread behind block on ledge.

FA: John Miller, 1992

25Sport 30m, 5
12 ** Cosmic Psycho

Excellent with an exciting pumpy arete to finish.

Start: Start 3m left of Blonde Ambition at a single BR belay.

FA: John Miller, 1992

24Sport 25m, 6
13 ** Youth Alive

A worthwhile link-up with a few metres of new climbing.

Start: Start as for 'Cosmic Psycho'.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1992

25Sport 25m, 5
14 ** Blond Ambition

Fantastic sustained climbing up the centre of the Pocketed Wall. The finish seeps after a good rainfall, but not as badly as 'Motley Crue' or 'Terminal Insomnia'.

Start: Start 3m left of Sisters Of 'Mercy' at a BR belay.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1992

24Sport 25m, 5
15 ** Sisters of Mercy

Brilliant with a pumpy and demoralising finish.

Start: The right most route on the ledge. Start 5m right of Blonde Ambition at a single rusty belay bolt.

FA: Scott Maloney, 1992

23Sport 25m, 4
16 Motley Crue

Not very inviting and has a reputation for a blisteringly hard crux. Seeps after rain.

Start: Start as for Billy Ray Syrus.

FA: Martin Lama, 1993

25Sport 20m, 5
17 ** Billy Ray Cyrus

Good route spoilt by ledge and nasty arete finish. Seeps after rain.

FA: John Miller, 1993

23Sport 15m, 4
18 * Messin' With The Kid

Seeps like a waterfall, except during long dry spells. Great moves though.

27Sport 15m, 6
19 ** Life's Sad Parade

Outstanding trad line that thankfully (or unfortunately, depending on your point of view) didn't get grid-bolted by the young guns in the early 90's. Climbers with arm-spans under 1.8m need not apply as the crux move is incredibly reachy.

Start: Takes the corner just left of 'De La Soul' and starts a few metres further left at left facing steep flake.

FA: Goshen Watts & Daniel Reve, 1997

25Mixed 22m, 2
20 ** De La Soul

Sustained and technical with some powerful moves. The route is badly scarred by several aid bolts used to place the 'real' bolts.

Start: Line of flakes up very steep wall in the centre of the crag about 10m left of 'The Dope Man' and just L of a solitary pine tree against the cliff.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1992

26Sport 15m, 5
21 The Velvet Underground

Links DLS into TVG

28Sport 35m, 55
22 Shoot From The Hip

Start as dope man.... punch left at ceiling campussing on pockets.

27Sport 17m
23 *** Velvet Goldmine

aka The Dopeman 'Extension'. An excellent line across a prominent feature. A modern classic that was somehow overlooked in the first VD Land onslaught.

Start: Start on ledge at finish of 'The Dope Man'.

FA: Matt Brooks

27Sport 25m, 9
24 The Dope Man

"Please can I have another hit?". A classic sandbag for the belay slave. The scene of many failures.

Start: Chalked up mini route that finishes on ledge 5m left of 'Body Count'.

FA: Julian Oldmeadow & Matthew Brooks, 1992

18Sport 5m, 2
25 *** Body Count

One of the best mid grade sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Consistently steep, with amazing pockets and cracks. Can apparently be climbed on trad - but what's the fun in that! Originally graded 27 by an optimistic Matt Brooks.

Start: The severely overhanging corner on the right side of the crag, about 2m right of the well chalked mini route of 'The Dope Man'. This is also the start for several other routes that split off to the right.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1992

24Sport 25m, 7
26 ** Body Count Arete aka Body Count Extension

Just what VD Land needs - another grade 24!

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2009

24Sport 35m, 11
27 ** Suicidal Tendencies

Some powerful pocket pulling down low and a delightful flake up high. It's written up as three pitches but you just link them all together into one long pitch of climbing. One star if you only climb the first pitch. Pitches 1 and 2 need rebolting. A 60m rope should be enough to lower off but a 50m won't be.

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

  1. 15m (24) Jam up 'Body Count' corner past UB, then step right onto sloping ledge. Up technical pockets then diagonally right on excellent incuts to rap chain. Five FH's in all. Used to be soft at 25, let's see if it's better as a solid 24.

  2. 9m (24) A touch easier than pitch 1...but not easy! Clip first FH, then step left and up the left facing flake line on the best rock around, past 2 more FHs to ledge and rap chain. It is exactly 25m back to the ground from this rap chain.

  3. 8m (25) From the 2nd anchor bouldery exposed moves head up right past two bolts to finish at top anchor on 'Happiness in Magazines' (30m to ground).

FA: Matthew Brooks & John Miller (pitch 3 added by American Elliott), 2009

25Sport 35m, 10
28 * Suicidal Tendencies (Pitch 1) 25Sport 18m
29 * My Bloody Valentine

A bit sharp and strange in places and wanders around a bit. Quite good though, and rather steep!

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

FA: Ross Meffin, 1993

24Sport 30m, 6
30 Crime Wave

Bails around the crux of 'Suicidal Tendencies' via a nice hand crack. Originally graded 23! The crux is the first few moves on 'Body Count'. If you brought the required few pieces of trad gear, linking this into 'Happiness in Magazines' pitch 2 is one of the best warm-ups at this whole crag.

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1992

21Mixed 30m, 3
31 * Jane's Addiction

Bouldery and powerful climbing up the black streak high up on right side of amphitheatre (above Brian 'Jonestown' Massacre). Seeps badly after rain.

Start: To get to the start scramble with care onto ledge at the base from the right to belay at single rusty BR.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1993

24Sport 15m, 5
32 ** Happiness in Magazines

Brilliant pumper.

Start: Start as for TBJM.

  1. 20m (25) First 6 bolts of 'The Brian Jonestown Massacre' then traverse left on pockets past two bolts until joining 'My Bloody Valentine'. 9 bolts.

  2. 15m (22) Really good in its own right - although some early repeats missed the 2 bolt face sequence off the ledge (look right!) and tradded up the fragile fat flake on the L instead, which is reportedly not much fun. Four U-bolts lead up a delightfully exposed flake on fantastic buckets. Mantle ledge then swing wildly out left (FH) for an orange jug. A couple more steep moves lead to lower-off. This pitch can also be approached via 'Crime Wave' (excellent warm up if you brought trad for CW) or via 'My Bloody Valentine'. Whichever first pitch you do, a 60m rope lets you belay from the ground and lower off the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground.

FA: kp

25Sport 20m, 14
33 * Happiness in Magazines (pitch 2)

5 bolts to Double bolt lower off.

FA: KP, Mike Boniwell, 2006

22Trad 15m
34 The Brian Jonestown Massacre LHV

FA: KP

24Trad 15m
35 * The Brian Jonestown Massacre

30 degree overhung handcrack with bolts!

Start: Starts on ground level directly below Jane's Addiction and about 10m R of 'Body Count'.

FA: kp, 2006

26Mixed 15m, 6
36 *** Van Diemans Traverse V0Boulder
37 *** DELETE THIS

FA: tony barron & myself

0Trad 30m
38 DDD 14Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 DDD Trad
V0 *** Van Diemans Traverse Boulder
18 The Dope Man Sport 5m, 2
20 ** The Naked Flame Trad 40m
21 Crime Wave Mixed 30m, 3
* Physical Graffiti Sport 15m, 4
22 * Happiness in Magazines (pitch 2) Trad 15m
** Terminal Insomnia Sport 30m, 5
23 ** Billy Ray Cyrus Sport 15m, 4
** Sisters of Mercy Sport 25m, 4
24 ** Blond Ambition Sport 25m, 5
*** Body Count Sport 25m, 7
** Body Count Arete aka Body Count Extension Sport 35m, 11
** Cosmic Psycho Sport 25m, 6
* Jane's Addiction Sport 15m, 5
* My Bloody Valentine Sport 30m, 6
* Pussy Riot Sport 25m
** Sonic Youth Sport 30m
The Brian Jonestown Massacre LHV Trad 15m
25 ** Happiness in Magazines Sport 20m, 14
* Hogadelics Anonymous Mixed 30m, 2
** Life's Sad Parade Mixed 22m, 2
Motley Crue Sport 20m, 5
* Murder Psalm Sport 25m, 7
* Ocean Rain Sport 25m, 8
** Suicidal Tendencies Sport 35m, 10
* Suicidal Tendencies (Pitch 1) Sport 18m
** Warped Spasm Sport 30m, 5
** Youth Alive Sport 25m, 5
26 ** De La Soul Sport 15m, 5
* Quiet Riot Sport 20m
* The Brian Jonestown Massacre Mixed 15m, 6
27 * Messin' With The Kid Sport 15m, 6
Ronin Sport 20m, 7
Shoot From The Hip Sport 17m
*** Velvet Goldmine Sport 25m, 9
28 The Velvet Underground Sport 35m, 55
0 *** DELETE THIS Trad 30m