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Table of contents

1. Van Dieman's Land 37 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.388859, -36.896589

Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine


Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ronin

Just your regular crazy gramps stone.

FA: kp

27 Sport 20m, 7
2 * Hogadelics Anonymous

Possibly un-climbed or at least un-repeated. 10m left of 'Murder Psalm' is a flake crack which leads to a beautiful slab. Possibly bolted by Roland Foster.

25 Sport 30m, 9
3 * Murder Psalm

Strangely this was one of the first routes bolted here. Why they walked all this way for one climb is pretty strange. Overhung blocky corner with two FH's on the blank slab above.

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Physical Graffiti'.

FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989

25 Sport 25m, 8
4 * Physical Graffiti

Controversial bolted corner crack, with plenty of suss rock. Not a bad warm-up but far from a classic.

Start: Rusty-coloured corner 20m left of base of Pocketed Wall and 10m right of 'Murder Psalm'. Scramble up to a DBB at base of corner.

FA: Chris Rubecet, 1992

21 Sport 15m, 4
5 Physical Graffiti - Extension

Logical 2 bolt finish to top of cliff

FA: @kentpaterson

Sport Project
6 ** The Naked Flame

Up off-width groove 2m right of 'Physical Graffiti' and swing right to ledge. Diagonally up wall to elegant flake. Up.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Dave Langley, Neil Mahunt, 1992

20 Trad 40m
7 * Ocean Rain

Left leaning line of FHs 10m left of 'Terminal Insomnia'. Either stickclip first bolt or lean over from pinnacle. Burly traverse leads to technical climbing on gritty pockets. Motor up short corner to a climatic finish. Solid at the grade?

25 Sport 25m, 8
8 * Quiet Riot

Start as Ocean Rain for a few bolts then go directly up thin grey wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff

26 Sport 20m
9 Pussy Riot

Shares a couple of moves with TI

FA: The Yerba's, 2012

24 Sport 25m
10 ** Sonic Youth

A mega link-up of the entire Pocketed Wall starting from 'Terminal Insomnia' and finishing up 'Sisters of Mercy'.

Start: Start as for 'Terminal Insomnia'.

FA: Kent Paterson, Al Robertson, 2006

24 Sport 30m
11 ** Terminal Insomnia

The best sport route of this grade in the 'Grampians'. Brilliant. But unfortunately it seeps very heavily after rain.

Start: Starts just left of black streak on far left end of the Pocketed Wall. Belay off sling thread in pockets.

FA: Neil Mahant, David Langley, Peter Stebbins

22 Sport 30m, 5
12 ** Warped Spasm

Fantastic 'limestone style' pocket climbing up central black streak on the left side of orange wall. It's just beside a heavy seepage line, but only one hold seems to get wet.

Start: Belay as for 'Terminal Insomnia' at thread behind block on ledge.

FA: John Miller, 1992

25 Sport 30m, 5
13 ** Cosmic Psycho

Excellent with an exciting pumpy arete to finish.

Start: Start 3m left of Blonde Ambition at a single BR belay.

FA: John Miller, 1992

24 Sport 25m, 6
14 ** Youth Alive

A worthwhile link-up with a few metres of new climbing.

Start: Start as for 'Cosmic Psycho'.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1992

25 Sport 25m, 5
15 ** Blond Ambition

Fantastic sustained climbing up the centre of the Pocketed Wall. The finish seeps after a good rainfall, but not as badly as 'Motley Crue' or 'Terminal Insomnia'.

Start: Start 3m left of Sisters Of 'Mercy' at a BR belay.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1992

24 Sport 25m, 5
16 ** Sisters of Mercy

Brilliant with a pumpy and demoralising finish.

Start: The right most route on the ledge. Start 5m right of Blonde Ambition at a DBB.

FA: Scott Maloney, 1992

23 Sport 25m, 4
17 Motley Crue

Not very inviting and has a reputation for a blisteringly hard crux. Seeps after rain.

Start: Start as for Billy Ray Syrus.

FA: Martin Lama, 1993

25 Sport 20m, 5
18 ** Billy Ray Cyrus

Good route spoilt by ledge and nasty arete finish. Seeps after rain.

FA: John Miller, 1993

23 Sport 15m, 4
19 * Messin' With The Kid

Seeps like a waterfall, except during long dry spells. Great moves though.

27 Sport 15m, 6
20 ** Life's Sad Parade

Outstanding trad line that thankfully (or unfortunately, depending on your point of view) didn't get grid-bolted by the young guns in the early 90's. Climbers with arm-spans under 1.8m need not apply as the crux move is incredibly reachy.

Start: Takes the corner just left of 'De La Soul' and starts a few metres further left at left facing steep flake.

FA: Goshen Watts & Daniel Reve, 1997

25 Mixed 22m, 2
21 ** De La Soul

Sustained and technical with some powerful moves. The route is badly scarred by several aid bolts used to place the 'real' bolts.

Start: Line of flakes up very steep wall in the centre of the crag about 10m left of 'The Dope Man' and just L of a solitary pine tree against the cliff.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1992

26 Sport 15m, 5
22 The Velvet Underground

Links DLS into TVG

28 Sport 35m, 55
23 Shoot From The Hip

Start as dope man.... punch left at ceiling campussing on pockets.

27 Sport 17m
24 *** Velvet Goldmine

aka The Dopeman 'Extension'. An excellent line across a prominent feature. A modern classic that was somehow overlooked in the first VD Land onslaught.

Start: Start on ledge at finish of 'The Dope Man'.

FA: Matt Brooks

27 Sport 25m, 9
25 The Dope Man

"Please can I have another hit?". A classic sandbag for the belay slave. The scene of many failures.

Start: Chalked up mini route that finishes on ledge 5m left of 'Body Count'.

FA: Julian Oldmeadow & Matthew Brooks, 1992

18 Sport 5m, 2
26 *** Body Count

One of the best mid grade sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Consistently steep, with amazing pockets and cracks. Can apparently be climbed on trad - but what's the fun in that! Originally graded 27 by an optimistic Matt Brooks.

Start: The severely overhanging corner on the right side of the crag, about 2m right of the well chalked mini route of 'The Dope Man'. This is also the start for several other routes that split off to the right.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1992

24 Sport 25m, 7
27 ** Body Count Arete aka Body Count Extension

Just what VD Land needs - another grade 24!

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2009

24 Sport 35m, 11
28 ** Suicidal Tendencies

Some powerful pocket pulling down low and a delightful flake up high. It's written up as three pitches but you just link them all together into one long pitch of climbing. One star if you only climb the first pitch. Pitches 1 and 2 need rebolting. A 60m rope should be enough to lower off but a 50m won't be.

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

  1. 15m (24) Jam up 'Body Count' corner past UB, then step right onto sloping ledge. Up technical pockets then diagonally right on excellent incuts to rap chain. Five FH's in all. Used to be soft at 25, let's see if it's better as a solid 24.

  2. 9m (24) A touch easier than pitch 1...but not easy! Clip first FH, then step left and up the left facing flake line on the best rock around, past 2 more FHs to ledge and rap chain. It is exactly 25m back to the ground from this rap chain.

  3. 8m (25) From the 2nd anchor bouldery exposed moves head up right past two bolts to finish at top anchor on 'Happiness in Magazines' (30m to ground).

FA: Matthew Brooks & John Miller (pitch 3 added by American Elliott), 2009

25 Sport 35m 3, 10
29 * Suicidal Tendencies (Pitch 1) 25 Sport 18m
30 * My Bloody Valentine

A bit sharp and strange in places and wanders around a bit. Quite good though, and rather steep!

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

FA: Ross Meffin, 1993

24 Sport 30m, 6
31 Crime Wave

Bails around the crux of 'Suicidal Tendencies' via a nice hand crack. Originally graded 23! The crux is the first few moves on 'Body Count'. If you brought the required few pieces of trad gear, linking this into 'Happiness in Magazines' pitch 2 is one of the best warm-ups at this whole crag.

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1992

21 Mixed 30m, 3
32 * Jane's Addiction

Bouldery and powerful climbing up the black streak high up on right side of amphitheatre (above Brian 'Jonestown' Massacre). Seeps badly after rain.

Start: To get to the start scramble with care onto ledge at the base from the right to belay at single rusty BR.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1993

24 Sport 15m, 5
33 ** Happiness in Magazines

Brilliant pumper.

Start: Start as for TBJM.

  1. 20m (25) First 6 bolts of 'The Brian Jonestown Massacre' then traverse left on pockets past two bolts until joining 'My Bloody Valentine'. 9 bolts.

  2. 15m (22) Really good in its own right - although some early repeats missed the 2 bolt face sequence off the ledge (look right!) and tradded up the fragile fat flake on the L instead, which is reportedly not much fun. Four U-bolts lead up a delightfully exposed flake on fantastic buckets. Mantle ledge then swing wildly out left (FH) for an orange jug. A couple more steep moves lead to lower-off. This pitch can also be approached via 'Crime Wave' (excellent warm up if you brought trad for CW) or via 'My Bloody Valentine'. Whichever first pitch you do, a 60m rope lets you belay from the ground and lower off the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground.

FA: kp

25 Sport 20m 2, 14
34 * Happiness in Magazines (pitch 2)

5 bolts to Double bolt lower off.

FA: KP, Mike Boniwell, 2006

22 Trad 15m
35 The Brian Jonestown Massacre LHV


24 Trad 15m
36 * The Brian Jonestown Massacre

30 degree overhung handcrack with bolts!

Start: Starts on ground level directly below Jane's Addiction and about 10m R of 'Body Count'.

FA: kp, 2006

26 Mixed 15m, 6
37 *** Van Diemans Traverse V0 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V0 *** Van Diemans Traverse Boulder
18 The Dope Man Sport 5m, 2
20 ** The Naked Flame Trad 40m
21 Crime Wave Mixed 30m, 3
* Physical Graffiti Sport 15m, 4
22 * Happiness in Magazines (pitch 2) Trad 15m
** Terminal Insomnia Sport 30m, 5
23 ** Billy Ray Cyrus Sport 15m, 4
** Sisters of Mercy Sport 25m, 4
24 ** Blond Ambition Sport 25m, 5
*** Body Count Sport 25m, 7
** Body Count Arete aka Body Count Extension Sport 35m, 11
** Cosmic Psycho Sport 25m, 6
* Jane's Addiction Sport 15m, 5
* My Bloody Valentine Sport 30m, 6
Pussy Riot Sport 25m
** Sonic Youth Sport 30m
The Brian Jonestown Massacre LHV Trad 15m
25 ** Happiness in Magazines Sport 20m 2, 14
* Hogadelics Anonymous Sport 30m, 9
** Life's Sad Parade Mixed 22m, 2
Motley Crue Sport 20m, 5
* Murder Psalm Sport 25m, 8
* Ocean Rain Sport 25m, 8
** Suicidal Tendencies Sport 35m 3, 10
* Suicidal Tendencies (Pitch 1) Sport 18m
** Warped Spasm Sport 30m, 5
** Youth Alive Sport 25m, 5
26 ** De La Soul Sport 15m, 5
* Quiet Riot Sport 20m
* The Brian Jonestown Massacre Mixed 15m, 6
27 * Messin' With The Kid Sport 15m, 6
Ronin Sport 20m, 7
Shoot From The Hip Sport 17m
*** Velvet Goldmine Sport 25m, 9
28 The Velvet Underground Sport 35m, 55
? Physical Graffiti - Extension Sport Project