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Description

Australia's premier roof bouldering venue. Chalked to the gills and inhabited by freakish Europeans. Unless you boulder harder than V7 don't bother with this place. The hardest 'problem' is the V16 78-move ceiling called 'The Wheel Of Life' by Dai Koyamada.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Big moves on big holds starting right at the very base of the cave (at the 'window'). Finish on the large hold at the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Starts at the end of 'Easy Does It' and climbs to a good hold a couple of moves past the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'.

FA: Alison Wong, 2000

Start on the large jug in the darkest depths of the cave - (the finish of X-Treme Cool) and head out to the jug at the start of Cave Man

FA: Fred Nicole, 2000

Links X-Treme Cool into 'Sleepy Hollow'. First ascent spread over 12 days.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

Links 'Sleepy Hollow' + Cave Girl + Dead Can't Dance - first ascent spread over a mere 3 days.

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

A variant way of doing 'Cave Man', essentially eliminating the big RH gaston move, but climbing the same problem.

Link 'Sleepy Hollow' into Cave Girl

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

The moderate classic of the cave - but that starts and ends nowhere in particular.

Start: Start on the major flake line, about 5 metres from the bottom wall of the cave - on a realtively juggy flakey bit.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

FA: Thomas Willenburg, 2000

Links Cave Bitch into Dead Can't Dance, finishing as for 'Rave Heart'

FA: Matt Wrigley, 2000

Pretty Hate Machine with the Eve Reve finish

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

Klem Loskot's piece de resistance - Climb all of Cave Man and keep going into the crux of Dead Can't Dance, and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Climb Cave Man into all of Dead Can't Dance.

FA: Fred Nicole, 2000

Standing start from the big lip sloper after the original DCD crux - reverse the 'Ogre Thumb' pinch move and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff.

Starts on the two 'rails' - at the finish of Cave Man - then climbs out via the famous 'pinch' hold into a gaston crux (the pinch hold of Rave Heart) finishing as for Wimmel Friedhoff.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Lip traverse from a jump start into the roof left of Wimmel Friedhoff, and finish up the groove just before the start of this problem.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

A long problem on the lip of the cave, finishing up pockets. Standing start and pull on, then motor horizontally toward 'Ogre Thumb' crux, then up on pockets. Pumpy.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1990

Standing start matching the hanging sloper, then rightwards reversing the underclings of 'Amniotic World' into the finish of 'Rave Heart'. A classic problem in its own right.

Start as for Wimmel Friedhoff and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

One of the easier problems, but quite good.

Start: Start on the top right hand side of the cave where the lip almost touches the ground. Bum drag to start.

FA: Klem Loskot & crew., 1999

Start as for 'Rave Heart' and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Start on the furthest RH sloper right of 'Rave Heart' original start - then traverse left into 'Amniotic World' and finish up it.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Start as for 'Extended World' but finish as for all of 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Tim O'Neill, 2000

Starts right of 'Krusti' at the bottom of the cave and heads out leftwards to finish on that problem's large sloping finish hold.

Funky fun. More technical than hard really.

Start: Start at the bottom left hand side of the cave (near a 'window').

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Sit-start left of Krusti's start, up into underclings - then traverse left.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Sit-start left of Paparazzi and traverse right all the way to Krusti's finish hold.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

The long standing open project linking the entire 'Hollow Mountain Cave' end to end. Start as for X-Treme Cool (V9), and keep climbing into all of 'Sleepy Hollow' (V12), Cave Girl (V8/9), Dead Can't Dance (V11) - finishing up 'Rave Heart'. Route grade of 36/37

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

Easy Does It into 'Aphrodite'

FA: Alison Wong, 2000

Link Body Eater into 'Ogre Thumb'

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

Pretty much as the name suggests.

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2000

Links X-Treme Cool into The Amazing Sounds of a She-Male 'Squealing'

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

X-Treme cool into 'Desire'

FA: Ben Heason, 2000

Jump start, left of Body Eater, and dyno towards the lip and top out.

FA: Alan Pryce, 2000

Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow'

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8

FA: Ben Heason, 2000

Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish.

FA: Sam Edwards/Bernhard Fiedler, 2000

Start mid-way across Cave Man on the big lip jug (after the crux of the main problem) and climb to its finish.

As per the normal Wheel Of Life problem, but with a more difficult and direct finish

FFA: James Kassay, 2012

FA: James Kassay, 2012

Activity

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