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Description

Australia's premier roof bouldering venue. Chalked to the gills and inhabited by freakish Europeans. Unless you boulder harder than V7 don't bother with this place. The hardest 'problem' is the V16 78-move ceiling called 'The Wheel Of Life' by Dai Koyamada.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Legoland, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine

CLOSED CLIMBING AREAS

Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
G-Land, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Big moves on big holds starting right at the very base of the cave (at the 'window'). Finish on the large hold at the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Starts at the end of 'Easy Does It' and climbs to a good hold a couple of moves past the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'.

FA: Alison Wong, 2000

Start on the large jug in the darkest depths of the cave - (the finish of X-Treme Cool) and head out to the jug at the start of Cave Man

FA: Fred Nicole, 2000

Links X-Treme Cool into 'Sleepy Hollow'. First ascent spread over 12 days.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

Links 'Sleepy Hollow' + Cave Girl + Dead Can't Dance - first ascent spread over a mere 3 days.

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

A variant way of doing 'Cave Man', essentially eliminating the big RH gaston move, but climbing the same problem.

Link 'Sleepy Hollow' into Cave Girl

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

The moderate classic of the cave - but that starts and ends nowhere in particular.

Start: Start on the major flake line, about 5 metres from the bottom wall of the cave - on a realtively juggy flakey bit.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

FA: Thomas Willenburg, 2000

Links Cave Bitch into Dead Can't Dance, finishing as for 'Rave Heart'

FA: Matt Wrigley, 2000

Pretty Hate Machine with the Eve Reve finish

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

Klem Loskot's piece de resistance - Climb all of Cave Man and keep going into the crux of Dead Can't Dance, and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Climb Cave Man into all of Dead Can't Dance.

FA: Fred Nicole, 2000

Standing start from the big lip sloper after the original DCD crux - reverse the 'Ogre Thumb' pinch move and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff.

Starts on the two 'rails' - at the finish of Cave Man - then climbs out via the famous 'pinch' hold into a gaston crux (the pinch hold of Rave Heart) finishing as for Wimmel Friedhoff.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Lip traverse from a jump start into the roof left of Wimmel Friedhoff, and finish up the groove just before the start of this problem.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

A long problem on the lip of the cave, finishing up pockets. Standing start and pull on, then motor horizontally toward 'Ogre Thumb' crux, then up on pockets. Pumpy.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1990

Standing start matching the hanging sloper, then rightwards reversing the underclings of 'Amniotic World' into the finish of 'Rave Heart'. A classic problem in its own right.

Start as for Wimmel Friedhoff and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

One of the easier problems, but quite good.

Start: Start on the top right hand side of the cave where the lip almost touches the ground. Bum drag to start.

FA: Klem Loskot & crew., 1999

Start as for 'Rave Heart' and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Start on the furthest RH sloper right of 'Rave Heart' original start - then traverse left into 'Amniotic World' and finish up it.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Start as for 'Extended World' but finish as for all of 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Tim O'Neill, 2000

Starts right of 'Krusti' at the bottom of the cave and heads out leftwards to finish on that problem's large sloping finish hold.

Funky fun. More technical than hard really.

Start: Start at the bottom left hand side of the cave (near a 'window').

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Sit-start left of Krusti's start, up into underclings - then traverse left.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Sit-start left of Paparazzi and traverse right all the way to Krusti's finish hold.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

The long standing open project linking the entire 'Hollow Mountain Cave' end to end. Start as for X-Treme Cool (V9), and keep climbing into all of 'Sleepy Hollow' (V12), Cave Girl (V8/9), Dead Can't Dance (V11) - finishing up 'Rave Heart'. Route grade of 36/37

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

Easy Does It into 'Aphrodite'

FA: Alison Wong, 2000

Link Body Eater into 'Ogre Thumb'

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

Pretty much as the name suggests.

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2000

Links X-Treme Cool into The Amazing Sounds of a She-Male 'Squealing'

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

X-Treme cool into 'Desire'

FA: Ben Heason, 2000

Jump start, left of Body Eater, and dyno towards the lip and top out.

FA: Alan Pryce, 2000

Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow'

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8

FA: Ben Heason, 2000

Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish.

FA: Sam Edwards/Bernhard Fiedler, 2000

Start mid-way across Cave Man on the big lip jug (after the crux of the main problem) and climb to its finish.

As per the normal Wheel Of Life problem, but with a more difficult and direct finish

FFA: James Kassay, 2012

FA: James Kassay, 2012

Activity

Check out what is happening in Hollow Mountain Cave.