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Description

Australia's premier roof bouldering venue. Chalked to the gills and inhabited by freakish Europeans. Unless you boulder harder than V7 don't bother with this place. The hardest 'problem' is the V16 78-move ceiling called 'The Wheel Of Life' by Dai Koyamada.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
V9 *** X-treme Cool Boulder

Big moves on big holds starting right at the very base of the cave (at the 'window'). Finish on the large hold at the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

2
V4 Easy Does It Boulder
3
V7 Aphrodite Boulder

Starts at the end of 'Easy Does It' and climbs to a good hold a couple of moves past the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'.

FA: Alison Wong, 2000

6
V12 * Sleepy Hollow Boulder

Start on the large jug in the darkest depths of the cave - (the finish of X-Treme Cool) and head out to the jug at the start of Cave Man

FA: Fred Nicole, 2000

7
V14 ** UnderSiege Boulder

Links X-Treme Cool into 'Sleepy Hollow'. First ascent spread over 12 days.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

8
V15 Sleepy Rave Boulder

Links 'Sleepy Hollow' + Cave Girl + Dead Can't Dance - first ascent spread over a mere 3 days.

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

9
V9 CaveGirl Boulder

A variant way of doing 'Cave Man', essentially eliminating the big RH gaston move, but climbing the same problem.

10
V13 SleepyMan Boulder

Link 'Sleepy Hollow' into Cave Girl

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

11
V9 *** CaveMan Boulder

The moderate classic of the cave - but that starts and ends nowhere in particular.

Start: Start on the major flake line, about 5 metres from the bottom wall of the cave - on a realtively juggy flakey bit.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

12
V10 Annagramma Boulder

FA: Thomas Willenburg, 2000

13
V12 CaveBitch Boulder
14

Links Cave Bitch into Dead Can't Dance, finishing as for 'Rave Heart'

FA: Matt Wrigley, 2000

15

Pretty Hate Machine with the Eve Reve finish

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

16
V13 *** CaveRave Boulder

Klem Loskot's piece de resistance - Climb all of Cave Man and keep going into the crux of Dead Can't Dance, and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

17
V14 Eve Rave Boulder

Climb Cave Man into all of Dead Can't Dance.

FA: Fred Nicole, 2000

18
V5 DCD Finish Boulder

Standing start from the big lip sloper after the original DCD crux - reverse the 'Ogre Thumb' pinch move and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff.

19
V11 *** Dead Can't Dance Boulder

Starts on the two 'rails' - at the finish of Cave Man - then climbs out via the famous 'pinch' hold into a gaston crux (the pinch hold of Rave Heart) finishing as for Wimmel Friedhoff.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

20
V9 BodyEater Boulder

Lip traverse from a jump start into the roof left of Wimmel Friedhoff, and finish up the groove just before the start of this problem.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

21
V5 *** Wimmelfriedhof Boulder

A long problem on the lip of the cave, finishing up pockets. Standing start and pull on, then motor horizontally toward 'Ogre Thumb' crux, then up on pockets. Pumpy.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1990

22
V5 * Ogre Thumb Finish Boulder

Standing start matching the hanging sloper, then rightwards reversing the underclings of 'Amniotic World' into the finish of 'Rave Heart'. A classic problem in its own right.

23
V9 ** Ogre Thumb Boulder

Start as for Wimmel Friedhoff and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

24
V8 *** Rave Heart Boulder

One of the easier problems, but quite good.

Start: Start on the top right hand side of the cave where the lip almost touches the ground. Bum drag to start.

FA: Klem Loskot and crew., 1999

25
V9 *** Amniotic World Boulder

Start as for 'Rave Heart' and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

26
V10 ** Extended World Boulder

Start on the furthest RH sloper right of 'Rave Heart' original start - then traverse left into 'Amniotic World' and finish up it.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

27
V9 Extended Heart Boulder

Start as for 'Extended World' but finish as for all of 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Tim O'Neill, 2000

28
V7 Palm Beach Boulder
30
V5 Silverchair Boulder

Starts right of 'Krusti' at the bottom of the cave and heads out leftwards to finish on that problem's large sloping finish hold.

31
V9 ** Krusti Boulder

Funky fun. More technical than hard really.

Start: Start at the bottom left hand side of the cave (near a 'window').

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

32
V8 Papparazzi Boulder

Sit-start left of Krusti's start, up into underclings - then traverse left.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

33
V9 Eye of the Tiger Boulder

Sit-start left of Paparazzi and traverse right all the way to Krusti's finish hold.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

34
V16 *** The Wheel Of Life Boulder

The long standing open project linking the entire 'Hollow Mountain Cave' end to end. Start as for X-Treme Cool (V9), and keep climbing into all of 'Sleepy Hollow' (V12), Cave Girl (V8/9), Dead Can't Dance (V11) - finishing up 'Rave Heart'. Route grade of 36/37

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

35
V8 Desire Boulder

Easy Does It into 'Aphrodite'

FA: Alison Wong, 2000

36
V11 Viva Resistance Boulder

Link Body Eater into 'Ogre Thumb'

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

37

Pretty much as the name suggests.

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2000

38
V14 X-Treme Squealing Boulder

Links X-Treme Cool into The Amazing Sounds of a She-Male 'Squealing'

FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000

39
V11 Cave Heart Boulder

X-Treme cool into 'Desire'

FA: Ben Heason, 2000

40
V8 Gastonia Boulder
41
V11 R American Pie Boulder

Jump start, left of Body Eater, and dyno towards the lip and top out.

FA: Alan Pryce, 2000

42

Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow'

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

43
V11 Caved Out Boulder

Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8

FA: Ben Heason, 2000

44
V12 Cave Woman/Bitch Boulder

Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish.

FA: Sam Edwards/Bernhard Fiedler, 2000

45
V5 Cave Man Finish Boulder

Start mid-way across Cave Man on the big lip jug (after the crux of the main problem) and climb to its finish.