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Description

A good collection of problems that haphazardly span the grades between V3 and V12+. Standout problems that are amongst some of the best for their grade are 'Innocence' (V3), 'The Nevin Rule' (V7) and Spanking the 'Monkey' Bars (V8). Section 2 is a perfect spot for a rainy day - as it is one of the few areas that stay dry in a downpour.

© (boardlord)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

These climbs are located right of the 'Clicke Wall' area. 'Problems' are listed left to right (facing the cliff). 'Access' via Mt Zero carpark, then once past the picnic area and onto the base of Flat Rock - keep heading left following the borderline of the trees and rock platform to gain the upper terrace. Then head straight up towards the main cliffline where a faint track and cairns lead up to obvious orange wall under a roof. This is Section 1. Gripmaster (V9) is a particular landmark - just look for the very bad slopers heading up the vague arete to under the roofline. Further around from here about 80 meters to the right is Section 2.

© (boardlord)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start at the base of the leaning arete and climb leftwards up the line of slopers and flakes. A classic for the grade!

Sit start at the base of the leaning arete. Mantle into the scoop and climb straight up on slopers and edges.

A good looking problem taking the central feature up the wall just right of the start to 'Innocence'. Sit-start.

The right trending finish to Charlie's Sex Tour. Climb CST to mid-height and traverse right to the large sloper pod and up the scoop.

Sit start to the right of Charlies Sex Tour on right slanting holds and traverse onto the lower line of slopers. Finish up into Bubble Trouble.

Sit start on the huge hollow flake and follow the jugs to the top.

A left to right traverse.

A slopey left-trending rampline starting in the middle of the Cut & Waste traverse line. Low sit-start then technical.

The giant scoop 10 meters left of Gripmaster.

Step into scoop gaining two well chalked under clings, walk up feet high and leap for rail. Needs many pads and spotters as it is committing and in serious ankle breaking territory.

Previously a long-standing open project prior to Klem's arrival. Originally graded 10, with some people thinking it's still not far off that.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

[Not drawn on topo] Start as for Gripmaster, then head right towards Sesame Super 'Highway' via slopey pinches to a jug on the corner. Like it's harder relation - very conditions dependant.

A great two mover. Pretty much a 1-3-6 campus move - but with your feet on (if you get the drift).

Sit start at Spanking the Monkeybars.

Big move L along the rail to decent edges. Hold on tight and move through pockets in the roof to match on the slopey lip.

Sit start on underclings below the white rail 2m left of the start of STMB. Climb to a slopey pocket and underclings to make a big move gaining the slopey pinch of STMB and finish as for this problem.

Low sit-start on the bottom-most jug, then head out past the 'handlebar' and onto the big sloper. Now cut out left via a big move to the slopey pinch, up to the pocket - then back right to the break. Match.

Start as for the original problem, then when you get to the big sloper, make a huge dyno for the break. A variety of methods exist.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Pulling off the ground and doing the first move seems the crux. Starting from a sharp L hand pinch, moving the right hand from the start to a shallow undercling, then L up to a slopeing pocket. intermediates exist before the huge ledge finish. 3ish moves?

FA: Fred Nicole, 2000

Takes the left-trending weakness of pockets from a sit-start - on the rightside of the big horizontal. Once the big horizontal is gained, keep traversing all the way left to finish at the pocket (the finish of STMB)

A big link up. Sit-start as for A Horse...', then traverse right all the way into the start of 'The Nevin Rule'. Finish up this problem. Route grade of 32.

FA: Simon Weill, 2000

The final chapter... Start as for Spanking the 'Monkey' Bars, reverse 'A Horse is a Horse', then finish as for 'The Weill...' Route grade of 33.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

Sit start on two edges under the rooflet. Reach out to slopers and crimps and make a press out left to the pocket. Big reaches back right gain the big high flake and finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Start underclinging the left side of the scoop feature (just left of the start of The Nevin Rule). Move up to LH incut crimp via tricky kneebars and underclings, gaston edges to meet The Nevin Rule at the high pinch. Finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Sit-start on the horizontal on the right-side of the cave and head up via a sidepull and pinch to the slopers. Dyno for the flat-top jug to finish. Originally given V6.

Sit-start at the base of the hanging arete right of 'The Nevin'. Follow the line up to a good jug via quite a hard 1st and 2nd move off a slopey pinch and a gaston crimp.

Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

The obvious challenge right of 'Fairy Head'. Quite committing. Grade?

A lowish traverse, sit starting on some flat holds down to the right hand side of the boulder. Pull moves left to some under-cut crimps then up to gain a side pull to top out.

FA: Adenjn, 2013

Starts as for 'German Motivation' then goes straight up with a biggish move to good holds

FA: Adenjn, 2013

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Kindergarten (bouldering).