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Description:© (boardlord)

A good collection of problems that haphazardly span the grades between V3 and V12+. Standout problems that are amongst some of the best for their grade are 'Innocence' (V3), 'The Nevin Rule' (V7) and Spanking the 'Monkey' Bars (V8). Section 2 is a perfect spot for a rainy day - as it is one of the few areas that stay dry in a downpour.

Access Issues: inherited from Grampians

National Park

Approach:© (boardlord)

These climbs are located right of the 'Clicke Wall' area. 'Problems' are listed left to right (facing the cliff). 'Access' via Mt Zero carpark, then once past the picnic area and onto the base of Flat Rock - keep heading left following the borderline of the trees and rock platform to gain the upper terrace. Then head straight up towards the main cliffline where a faint track and cairns lead up to obvious orange wall under a roof. This is Section 1. Gripmaster (V9) is a particular landmark - just look for the very bad slopers heading up the vague arete to under the roofline. Further around from here about 80 meters to the right is Section 2.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Spicy Fingers
V6
Boulder
2 * Ghost Ride
V3
Boulder
3 * Caffeinator
V8
Boulder
4 Winner Takes All
V3
Boulder
5 ** Innocence

An immaculate line featuring slopers, sidepulls and jugs up a left-trending arete. Located on the leftside of the wall (Section 1) about 30m downhill from Gripmaster.

V3
Boulder
6 * Charlie's Sex Tour

A good looking problem taking the central feature up the wall just right of the start to 'Innocence'. Sit-start.

V2
Boulder
7 Bubble Trouble

The righthand version of the previous problem. Start as for Problem #2 then branch right.

V3
Boulder
8 Cut and Waste

A left to right traverse.

V4
Boulder
9 Fairy Head

A slopey left-trending rampline starting in the middle of the Cut & Waste traverse line. Low sit-start then technical.

V1
Boulder
10 *** GripMaster

Previously a long-standing open project prior to Klem's arrival. Originally graded 10, with some people thinking it's still not far off that.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

V9
Boulder
11 ** Querulaut

[Not drawn on topo] Start as for Gripmaster, then head right towards Sesame Super 'Highway' via slopey pinches to a jug on the corner. Like it's harder relation - very conditions dependant.

V7
Boulder
12 * Sesame Superhighway

A great two mover. Pretty much a 1-3-6 campus move - but with your feet on (if you get the drift).

V3
Boulder
13 Stairway to Heaven
V2
Boulder
14 Flash Gordon
V7
Boulder
15 *** Spanking the Monkeybars

Low sit-start on the bottom-most jug, then head out past the 'handlebar' and onto the big sloper. Now cut out left via a big move to the slopey pinch, up to the pocket - then back right to the break. Match.

V8
Boulder
16 ** Spanking the Monkeybars direct

Start as for the original problem, then when you get to the big sloper, make a huge dyno for the break. A variety of methods exist.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

V8
Boulder
17 Haribo Boulder

Pulling off the ground and doing the first move seems the crux. Starting from a sharp L hand pinch, moving the right hand from the start to a shallow undercling, then L up to a slopeing pocket. intermediates exist before the huge ledge finish. 3ish moves?

FA: Fred Nicole, 2000

V9
Boulder
18 * A horse is a horse

Takes the left-trending weakness of pockets from a sit-start - on the rightside of the big horizontal. Once the big horizontal is gained, keep traversing all the way left to finish at the pocket (the finish of STMB)

V4
Boulder
19 *** The Nevin Rule

Sit-start on the horizontal on the right-side of the cave and head up via a sidepull and pinch to the slopers. Dyno for the flat-top jug to finish. Originally given V6.

V7
Boulder
20 * False Profit

Sit-start at the base of the hanging arete right of 'The Nevin'. Follow the line up to a good jug via quite a hard 1st and 2nd move off a slopey pinch and a gaston crimp.

V2
Boulder
21 The Wheel of Fortune

The final chapter... Start as for Spanking the 'Monkey' Bars, reverse 'A Horse is a Horse', then finish as for 'The Weill...' Route grade of 33.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

V12
Boulder
22 Peaches
V7
Boulder
23 * Unnamed

Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

V0
Boulder
24 The Weill of Fortune

A big link up. Sit-start as for A Horse...', then traverse right all the way into the start of 'The Nevin Rule'. Finish up this problem. Route grade of 32.

FA: Simon Weill, 2000

V12
Boulder
25 Unknown

The obvious challenge right of 'Fairy Head'. Quite committing. Grade?

V0
Boulder
26 The Cheerleader
V0
Boulder
RouteGradeStylePopularity
27 ** German Motivation

A lowish traverse, sit starting on some flat holds down to the right hand side of the boulder. Pull moves left to some under-cut crimps then up to gain a side pull to top out.

FA: Adenjn, 2013

V7
Boulder
28 * Einhorn Schmetterling

Starts as for 'German Motivation' then goes straight up with a biggish move to good holds

FA: Adenjn, 2013

V1
Boulder