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Description

The slabby streaked walls between 'Tribute Wall' and Van Dieman's Land. The routes and rock quality resemble Wall Of Fools at Summer Day Valley. The right side is home to several nice sport routes and the left has some of the best easy jug fests in the Grampians. Cliff faces into the sun until mid-afternoon. Routes described right to left.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

1200m from carpark and 580m from 'Sandinista' Wall. 36.53.730s, 142.23.270e. Walk through the 'Tribute' Walls ravine, scramble down via worn tree and airy step-across to large open rocky platform. The cliff to the west (right) is 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. If you continue along this rocky platform for 80m you will end up in the Van Dieman's Land Amphitheatre.

© (nmonteith)

Descent Notes

Descent from the left side trad routes can be made via the double ring-bolts located on the ledge above Revenge Of The 'Chicken'.

© (nmonteith)

History

Surprisingly the harder routes were all but ignored for decades until Monty was researching a new online guide in 2005. A few weekends later and the area sprung from only two easy trad routes to quite a collection of nice midrange sport climbs.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Face climbing with a mix of bolts and trad gear plus copious amounts of loose rock. Starts in the chimney at the far right side of 'Bad Moon Rising' wall about 10m right of 'Raunchy Rooster'.

FA: Josef Goding, Naomi Gibbs, 2007

2
22 * Raunchy Rooster Sport 18m, 5

Good sport route now it has an extra bolt. Surprisingly easy if you can crimp hard.

FA: Mike FIle, 2005

3

Linkup that starts as for Rage and Ruin then links across undercling flake past 1 bolt to join the Rooster.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

4
23 ** Rage And Ruin Sport 18m, 6

Best route on this wall. Nice face climbing with a pumpy surprise finish. Start at rightwards arching undercling flake.

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Mike File, 2005

5
22 * All The Way To Eleven Sport 18m, 6

Clip first two bolts on Rage And Ruin. Step down and head diagonally left across the black streak and up the orange headwall past a further 4 bolts.

FA: James Pfrunder, 2005

6
23 ** Chicken Head Hunters Sport 22m, 6

Elegant face route in a similar vein to 'Diazepam'. Start 2m L of the black streak. Very thin start which eases considerably at the halfway point. At least six bolts and a double U-bolt lower off.

FA: Adam Demmert & James Pfrunder, 2005

7
24 ** Revenge Of The Chickens Sport 25m, 6

The other best route on this cliff. Up CHH to bolt three, then traverse left across break and follow line of UB's up the increasingly difficult wall to runout finish. Double UB lower-off on ledge way up to the left.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

8
20 Sleep Forever Sport 20m, 7

Slabby and well bolted - sure to be popular. The right leading line of u-bolts leading to Revenge of the Chickens anchor. Staying R of BF through the low bulge is pretty cruxy, it's probably more consistent to climb BF to it's bolt then move R into this line.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

9
17 Bitten Finger Mixed 18m, 1

Slabby wall climb that is mostly trad. The first features left of the central blank section of the wall are two parallel orange overlaps. Climb the overlaps with pro on the left, to the crux bulge (BR). Follow the holds and gear up the slab above, staying just left of a small water groove. Takes wires, small-med cams and a bolt plate.

FA: Will Monks, Ben Cirulis, 2005

10
15 Headless Chickens Trad 18m

A bit better than 'Bitten Finger'. 2m L of 'Bitten Finger'. Easily up orange patch to bulge, which is breached via a small crack/weakness with great gear and buckets. Headless chickenheads keep the slab above interesting. Take wires & small-med cams.

FA: Ben Cirulis, Will Monks, 2005

11
8 Octohexarian Trad 20m

The central buckety black streak. Take slings for bollards.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' and 4m left of 'Headless Chickens'.

FA: Unknown's, 1980

12
11 * Bite The Hand Trad 30m

Direct line up juggy gritty slab. Starts 6m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' below light grey streak which ends at same finish as BMR. Up left side of grey streak to delightful short right facing thin flake at 1/3 height. Continue up on jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005

13
12 * Bad Moon Rising Trad 30m

The landmark right facing leaning corner on the left side of the wall. The line looks good but the rock quality is fairly suss in many places. Bring a full rack.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1986

14
17 Puddlejugs Trad 20m

The prominent arete left of the 'Bad Moon Rising' corner with some amazing in-cut jugs. Climb the Bad Moon Rising corner for 5m, moving left onto the pedestal. Continue up the overhung face moving left around the arête, and follow the righthand crack to the top.

FA: Ben Cirulis, Jo Hugman, 2005

15
20 Familiar Patterns Sport 20m, 5

Pumpy and a touch contrived at one point. Starts as Puddlejugs. Up for 7m to the exposed ledge on the arete (bring some trad if you want pro up to here). Clip high FH and thug up steep jugs on right side of arete and then onto the arete proper.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

16
21 * Rabbit in the Headlights Mixed 20m, 6

Starts on low arete 3m left of PJ. Moves left across face following 6FH's. Move left at 5FH where the slab blanks out, then up. A tad engaging.

17
27 * Bunny Boiler Sport

A 27 slab. Hardest slab in gramps??

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2012

18
23 Rabbit Stew Sport 25m

Link up of RRR into RITH 22/23 Start up RRR till top of Arete and a U bolt leads you off right past another bolt to join RITH at its last bolt. interesting slab climbing and a better way to do RRR.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2011

19
20 Run Rabbit Run Sport 25m

U-bolts up the blank slab just right of the jugs of Strong Social Conscience. Follow bolts up the slab to arete trying to avoid going to far left in to chasim, a hard move at top of arete leads up the wall above. finish at double U bolt anchor.

FFA: Adam Demmert, Cath de Vaus, 2011

20
18 11am Trad 12m

Worthless sand climbing. Offwidth seam and crack on wall directly behind 'Raunchy Rooster' and near the tree scramble down descent from 'Tribute Wall'.

FA: Mick Jennings & James McIntosh, 1998

21

No bolt ladders here. Good fun jugging with good gear on good rock, may even be worth a second star? Start around 20m left of Bad Moon Rising's corner. Up the mega jugs on the left side of the smooth grey wall for about 15m, tending right up jugs to blank looking wall. Traverse left approx 5m until decent holds appear, straight up through gap heading right of small black chimney up face on good holds to top.

FA: Josef Goding, Eric Sidharta, 2007

22

Adam Demmert has his eye on this line. Might go at grade 24+