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Description

The slabby streaked walls between 'Tribute Wall' and Van Dieman's Land. The routes and rock quality resemble Wall Of Fools at Summer Day Valley. The right side is home to several nice sport routes and the left has some of the best easy jug fests in the Grampians. Cliff faces into the sun until mid-afternoon. Routes described right to left.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

1200m from carpark and 580m from 'Sandinista' Wall. 36.53.730s, 142.23.270e. Walk through the 'Tribute' Walls ravine, scramble down via worn tree and airy step-across to large open rocky platform. The cliff to the west (right) is 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. If you continue along this rocky platform for 80m you will end up in the Van Dieman's Land Amphitheatre.

© (nmonteith)

Descent notes

Descent from the left side trad routes can be made via the double ring-bolts located on the ledge above Revenge Of The 'Chicken'.

© (nmonteith)

History

View historical timeline

Surprisingly the harder routes were all but ignored for decades until Monty was researching a new online guide in 2005. A few weekends later and the area sprung from only two easy trad routes to quite a collection of nice midrange sport climbs.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Face climbing with a mix of bolts and trad gear plus copious amounts of loose rock. Starts in the chimney at the far right side of 'Bad Moon Rising' wall about 10m right of 'Raunchy Rooster'.

FA: Josef Goding & Naomi Gibbs, 2007

Good sport route now it has an extra bolt. Surprisingly easy if you can crimp hard.

FA: Mike FIle, 2005

Linkup that starts as for Rage and Ruin then links across undercling flake past 1 bolt to join the Rooster.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

Best route on this wall. Nice face climbing with a pumpy surprise finish. Start at rightwards arching undercling flake.

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Mike File, 2005

Clip first two bolts on Rage And Ruin. Step down and head diagonally left across the black streak and up the orange headwall past a further 4 bolts.

FA: James Pfrunder, 2005

Elegant face route in a similar vein to 'Diazepam'. Start 2m L of the black streak. Very thin start which eases considerably at the halfway point. At least six bolts and a double U-bolt lower off.

FFA: adam demmert & James Pfrunder, 2005

FA: Adam Demmert & James Pfrunder, 2005

The other best route on this cliff. Up CHH to bolt three, then traverse left across break and follow line of UB's up the increasingly difficult wall to runout finish. Double UB lower-off on ledge way up to the left.

FFA: adam demmert, 2005

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

Slabby and well bolted - sure to be popular. The right leading line of u-bolts leading to Revenge of the Chickens anchor. go left after 2nd bolt through bulge...

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

Slabby wall climb that is mostly trad. The first features left of the central blank section of the wall are two parallel orange overlaps. Climb the overlaps with pro on the left, to the crux bulge (BR). Follow the holds and gear up the slab above, staying just left of a small water groove. Takes wires, small-med cams and a bolt plate.

FA: Will Monks & Ben Cirulis, 2005

A bit better than 'Bitten Finger'. 2m L of 'Bitten Finger'. Easily up orange patch to bulge, which is breached via a small crack/weakness with great gear and buckets. Headless chickenheads keep the slab above interesting. Take wires & small-med cams.

FA: Ben Cirulis & Will Monks, 2005

The central buckety black streak. Take slings for bollards.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' and 4m left of 'Headless Chickens'.

FA: Unknown's, 1980

Direct line up juggy gritty slab. Starts 6m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' below light grey streak which ends at same finish as BMR. Up left side of grey streak to delightful short right facing thin flake at 1/3 height. Continue up on jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005

The landmark right facing leaning corner on the left side of the wall. The line looks good but the rock quality is fairly suss in many places. Bring a full rack.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1986

The prominent arete left of the 'Bad Moon Rising' corner with some amazing in-cut jugs. Climb the Bad Moon Rising corner for 5m, moving left onto the pedestal. Continue up the overhung face moving left around the arête, and follow the righthand crack to the top.

FA: Ben Cirulis & Jo Hugman, 2005

Pumpy and a touch contrived at one point. Starts as Puddlejugs. Up for 7m to the exposed ledge on the arete (bring some trad if you want pro up to here). Clip high FH and thug up steep jugs on right side of arete and then onto the arete proper.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

Starts on low arete 3m left of PJ. Moves left across face following 6FH's. Move left at 5FH where the slab blanks out, then up. A tad engaging.

A 27 slab. Hardest slab in gramps??

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2012

Link up of RRR into RITH 22/23 Start up RRR till top of Arete and a U bolt leads you off right past another bolt to join RITH at its last bolt. interesting slab climbing and a better way to do RRR.

FFA: adam demmert, 2011

U-bolts up the blank slab just right of the jugs of Strong Social Conscience. Follow bolts up the slab to arete trying to avoid going to far left in to chasim, a hard move at top of arete leads up the wall above. finish at double U bolt anchor.

FFA: adam demmert & cathdv, 2011

Worthless sand climbing. Offwidth seam and crack on wall directly behind 'Raunchy Rooster' and near the tree scramble down descent from 'Tribute Wall'.

FA: Mick Jennings & James McIntosh, 1998

No bolt ladders here. Good fun jugging with good gear on good rock, may even be worth a second star? Start around 20m left of Bad Moon Rising's corner. Up the mega jugs on the left side of the smooth grey wall for about 15m, tending right up jugs to blank looking wall. Traverse left approx 5m until decent holds appear, straight up through gap heading right of small black chimney up face on good holds to top.

FA: Josef Goding & Eric Sidharta, 2007

Adam Demmert has his eye on this line. Might go at grade 24+

Activity

Check out what is happening in Bad Moon Rising Wall.