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Description

A short punchy bulgy wall of immaculate marbled rock, which has experienced a bit of new activity from Kent Paterson! The routes here are just over vertical. The wall suffers a bit from small climb syndrome and bad access. The base is a chaos of mossy boulders, ferns and chasms. It is best to rap in with a fixed rope and climb out of all these climbs. To get a good view of the wall before committing to the rap, scramble around to the pedestal on the southern end of the wall. 'Irritant Pollens' is the evil looking flake crack visible from the pedestal. The crag gets morning sun but soon switches to shade as it is tucked away down low.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

This wall lies below 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. Walk out from 'Bad Moon Rising' for 50m to the edge of the cliff. A small terrace with several rap chains is directly above the climbs but is fairly dangerous to reach. It is better to rig a fixed rope from safer territory and abseil down the slabby bit onto the terrace, re-belay mid-rope off one of the chains, and then rap down the main cliff to the base. At the far left end of the terrace (facing out) is the rap chain for 'Civil War'. The middle chain is Mistaken for Strangers, and the right chain is an un-bolted potential project. Right of this chain is a manky double bolt belay belonging to Prisoner Of Conscience. Routes listed from right to left when facing into the rock.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
23 Zombie Apocalypse Sport 10m, 4

Rising pocketed traverse on lower wall.

2
28 * School Of Seven Bells Sport 15m, 5

A subtle jigsaw of movement.

3
23 * Torture Garden Sport 15m, 5

Start: Second route from the right side. Easily up jugs to ledge, then do a scary move to clip first bolt (stick clip might be useful). Up black bulges and cross orange streak with cool moves for 4 bolts then traverse left to welcome rest jug. reach left to clip last bolt on 'Civil War' and finish up it. The 2 bolt TG direct finish is now an open project.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2009

4
24 ** Civil War Mixed 15m, 4

The central orange streak. Great moves but a bit short for all the hassle involved into getting to the start.

Start: Approach from above via rap chains which are 30m north of 'Irritant Pollens' and below large boulder with tiny cave on south side. Belay on ledge with single chain.

FA: Daniel Brooks & Matthew Brooks, 1992

5
Project - KP Sport 15m

Aka the Johny Dawes route.

6
26 * Mistaken For Strangers Sport 12m, 4

Watch the top out!

FA: Kent Paterson, 2009

7
27 * Curse Of The Bilby Sport 15m, 7

New wave testpiece.

8
15 Irritant Pollens Trad 15m

Big left facing corner at far left end of the wall with undercut roof down low. When the corner blanks out go right across the slab to finish on the terrace (chain).

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1986

9
22 Prisoner of Conscience Mixed 15m, 2

Squeezed in amoungst a grotty chimney cleft.

Start: On left end of wall inside the chimney and 5m left of 'Irritant Pollens'. 'Access' via double bolts from above or scramble down cleft from the right (south).

FA: John Miller & Mark Sullivan, 1992