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Description

A short punchy bulgy wall of immaculate marbled rock, which has experienced a bit of new activity from Kent Paterson! The routes here are just over vertical. The wall suffers a bit from small climb syndrome and bad access. The base is a chaos of mossy boulders, ferns and chasms. It is best to rap in with a fixed rope and climb out of all these climbs. To get a good view of the wall before committing to the rap, scramble around to the pedestal on the southern end of the wall. 'Irritant Pollens' is the evil looking flake crack visible from the pedestal. The crag gets morning sun but soon switches to shade as it is tucked away down low.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

This wall lies below 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. Walk out from 'Bad Moon Rising' for 50m to the edge of the cliff. Access via far right of cliff. Look for rock cairn. Short fixed rope leads to lower cliff. Routes listed from right to left when facing into the rock.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Rising pocketed traverse on lower wall.

A subtle jigsaw of movement.

Start: Second route from the right side. Easily up jugs to ledge. Up black bulges and cross orange streak with cool moves for 4 bolts then traverse left to welcome rest jug. reach left to clip last bolt on 'Civil War' and finish up it.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 21 Jun 2009

TG direct finish. Might be 28

Set by adam demmert

FFA: Kent Paterson, 2016

The central orange streak. Great moves but a bit short for all the hassle involved into getting to the start.

Start: Approach from above via rap chains which are 30m north of 'Irritant Pollens' and below large boulder with tiny cave on south side. Belay on ledge with single chain.

FA: Daniel Brooks & Matthew Brooks, 1992

Climb to ledge. Move left to imposing black wall. Traverse left on knob style holds. Then up menacing headwall with just enough holds. Upgraded to reflect difficulty.

Watch the top out!

FA: Kent Paterson, 21 Mar 2009

New wave testpiece. Excellent sustained face climbing. 7 bolts to fixed biner lower off. The resident lunch-stealing critter is actually a bandicoot, not a bilby!

Big left facing corner at far left end of the wall with undercut roof down low. When the corner blanks out go right across the slab to finish on the terrace (chain).

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1986

Squeezed in amoungst a grotty chimney cleft.

Start: On left end of wall inside the chimney and 5m left of 'Irritant Pollens'. 'Access' via double bolts from above or scramble down cleft from the right (south).

FA: John Miller & Mark Sullivan, 1992

Starts 50m left of the dungeon. Near the access gully. Up very nice layback flakes to anchor.

Set by toby pola

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