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Description

Some popular sport routes on a small Taipanesque wall, and some not so popular trad lines. This is a cliff of wide variety and offers several days worth of action for the mid grade 20’s climber.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

960m from carpark. 36.53663s, 142.23.178e.

Keep following the base of the cliff line south west from White Wall past acres of blank rock for 300m until the cliff starts to breaks down. At the first opportunity scramble up the small wall on the right. There should be a small rock cairn halfway up this 6m wall which shows the way. If you miss this step-up you will end up stumbling around at the base of a short poxy cliff cursing the guidebook authors. At the time of this guidebook research there is a small man-made rock wall and sticks blocking the wrong path. Once above this short wall you will see a high orange wall, this is Upper Cut Lunch Wall where most of the sport routes are. Below and to the right of this wall are several of the trad routes.

Routes from 1-9 are on Lower Cut Lunch Wall. Routes from 10-18 are on Upper Cut Lunch Wall. Routes described from right to left. This wall gets full sun until about 1pm. It is cool and breezy and shady in the afternoon.

Descent Notes

Rap anchors located above 'Raindancer' and 'Twisted Horizons'.

History

In the late 1980’s intrepid explorer Dave Vass started things rolling with the fine corner of 'The Snatch' (23). A year later Jon Bassindale dragged a few fellow Poms up the impressive and bold 'Romeo is Bleeding' (23) - which is unfortunately the only feasible line up the full height of the superb blank orange wall dominating the left side of the crag. The cliff remained un-loved for more than ten years until sport climbers began to notice the lovely orange rock high up on the ledge above the grey jugs. Kent Paterson and Julian Saunders both inspected the wall but abandoned first ascent attempts because of the seemingly bad access. This didn’t stop Neil Monteith and Nick McKinnon from appearing in 2001 and cleaning up a swag of quality sport routes and establishing an easy way up to the ledge. The addition of a few gnarly trad routes in the last few years has filled in the gaps.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 9am Trad 60m

Start: Start about 50m right of 'The Snatch' below a buttress with an 'obvious' undercling flake.

  1. 40m (18) Up to flake then up right onto top of buttress, then easy slab.

  2. 20m (18) Shift belay to base of the corner up right, then climb corner.

FA: James McIntosh & Mick Jennings (alt), 1998

2
19 * Three Course Meal Trad 30m

A good route up a major water streak on far right end of crag 7m right of 'The Snatch' below a broken easy corner.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

3
Adam's Project Sport Project 15m

Left facing corner in behind the trees and 2m left of 'Three Course Meal'. It's mostly fused and hard! Stay off until complete.

4

More like a Lindorff grade 20! Starting as for The Snatch, but climb straight up to the roof crack. Grab the perfect thread hold and thrash leftwards using every traditional trick in the book to gain the lip. Up the juggy offwidth to ledge and finish up left wall.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith, 2001

5
23 * The Snatch Trad 15m

Nails hard reach crux which is way out of keeping with the rest of this route. Superb orange left facing corner on the right side of Lower 'Cut Lunch Walls'. Another good find by Dave Vass.

Start: The start is marked.

FA: Dave Vass & John Gallstone, 1988

6
22 Slam Dunk Trad 20m

Awkward and not very inspiring. Start 8m left of 'The Snatch' below steep rounded arête.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1988

7
17 Access Line Trad 20m

The easy way to the Upper Cut Lunch Wall's fabulous sport routes. In reality its a four move boulder problem off the deck then grade 5 climbing from then on. Starts on small rock about 10m left of the Salad Abuse arête.

FA: Gay Welders Union (solo), 2001

8
23 R Justin Thyme Trad 10m

In memory of the controversial letter writer from the mid 00s. Needs a couple of bolts as it was climbed on pre-placed wires. Start 8m right of 'Raindancer' below short steep corner.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2004

9
18 Last Decayed Sport 15m, 7

Ring bolted sport route climbing the face just right of arete. This is the best way to get to the Upper 'Cut Lunch Walls' ledge. Tricky start up left facing flake, then easier grey wall to top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2011

10
22 R ** Romeo Is Bleeding Mixed 60m, 1

"I really felt like a proper climber that day" Jon Bassindale. Amazingly both pitches of this route were claimed as new routes years later.

Start: Starts as for 'Raindancer' at the arete with the big trench below.

  1. 20m (18) Lean across the zawn, clip first bolt on Randancer and climb the overhanging arête to the terrace on trad. In 1992 Peter Stebbins placed the now bent and rusted BR and claimed the pitch as Salad Abuse (20).

  2. 40m (22) Bring RP's and expect runouts. Walk to the left end of the terrace and drop down to belay on the right of the big red wall. Traverse left to a big mushroom on a ledge. Up and slightly right, then head for the big hanging corner crack and thence the top. In 1997 Goshen Watts repeated the route thinking he was doing a new climb, calling it Lucky Jesus 'Houdini' Rex (23).

FA: Jon Bassindale, Roland Foster & Martin Scheel, 1989

11
22 * Raindancer Sport 20m, 5

FH's up wall left of arete. Clip rusty carrot bolt to start, swing left on flake (ring bolt) then up very juggy wall which thins to a big crux move. At the top of the pillar head right to double ring anchor. Destined to be a sport trade route.

FA: Marcel Geelen, Jacquie Lee, Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

12
16 Bat in a Hole Mixed 14m, 2

Watch for the angry bat that lives in a pocket near the top! Up Raindancer to the RB. Step left and easily up the corner keeping an eye out for the biting pockets. Belay below Malcolm's Crack on trad. Rap off tree to descend.

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2004

13
28 Young Offenders Sport 9m

Starts down in the pit below Bat in A Hole. Hard pocket pulling through roof.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2011

14
25 Alive Alone Sport 9m

Roof pockets through a roof starting down in in the pit. Traverse left along flake to bouldery finish.

15
18 Glue Pot Drive Sport 9m, 3

A good route for a belay slave. Soloed on first ascent due to impatience for a belay! Hard to locate for first timers. Thin face with three rings on east facing side of chasm 10m down and to the right of The Big Payback. Bridging against the back wall up high is to be avoided. Best way to approach is to climb the first half of Access Route. Lower off last RB or belay on ledge above on trad.

FA: Neil Monteith (solo), 2001

16
25 ** The Big Payback Mixed 17m, 5

A funky set of moves.

Start: Starts at the little alcove on the far right side of the orange Upper Cut Lunch Wall ledge.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith, 2001

17
28 ** Open Project Mixed 18m, 5

Line of ringbolts starting 2m left of 'The Big Payback'. Finishes up 'On My Own'.

FA: Equipped by Neil Monteith, 2004

18
24 ** On My Own Mixed 18m, 7

Variant finish to 'Tender Hooks' which offers sustained pumpy pleasure on immaculate orange rock.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

19
24 ** Tender Hooks Mixed 18m, 6

Good training for 'Taipan'. One of the bolts pulled out after Neil had dogged his way up this! It has since been replaced. Central rib feature with small rooflet down low about 5m left of 'The Big Payback'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

20
22 ** Wired Sport 20m, 6

Superb climbing on perfect rock which is slightly spoilt by the ledge midway up. Good training for 'Taipan'. The scene of a few tantrums as the moves are not obvious. Start slightly left of 'Tender Hooks'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

21
21 * Twisted Horizons Sport 20m, 6

Big features and good exposure. Starts just left of small gumtree on ledge about 5m left of 'Wired'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marcel Geelen, 2001

22
21 American Anthrax Attack Mixed 24m, 5

Just an average filler route. Be careful of loose rock.

Start: FH's up wall 3m left of 'Twisted Horizons'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

23
24 * Malcolms Crack Mixed 10m, 1

He's good at climbing them, but hopeless at naming them!

Start: The finger crack with a bulge down low on the far left end of Upper 'Cut Lunch Walls'. Scramble down carefully from terrace and belay off trad gear.

FA: Malcolm Matheson Neil Monteith, 2004

24

A long way from anywhere.

Start: Takes the crack 40m left of 'Country Mile', with a steep start and finish. Identifiable as the only continuous line out of several in the area and is rather vegetated.

FA: Stuart Willis & James McIntosh, 1987

25

James and Melanie were far from civilization when they found this line!

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Hogadelics Anonymous'. There is a slab above an overhanging wall. Initialled. Start below left end of slab at a large gum tree.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1986