Cut Lunch Walls Rock climbing27 routes in cliff
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Some popular sport routes on a small Taipanesque wall, and some not so popular trad lines. This is a cliff of wide variety and offers several days worth of action for the mid grade 20’s climber.
Access issues inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):
People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.
To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff , Gunn Buttress , Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area , Andersens , Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, Turtle Rocks, Sandinista Cliffs, Pensioners Wall Area, Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys , Hollow Mountain Cave, Legoland, Cut Lunch Walls , Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall , The Dungeon, Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder
Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder
*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders ,The Plaza Strip, The Snake Pit , Trackside Boulders. Citadel . Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall ,Epsilon Wall ,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land , Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 4 Cornered Crag, Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls
Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag , Sunstroke Area , Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, Second Tier, Third Tier , North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers , Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers
Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie , The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block, The Olive Cave, The Ravine
CLOSED CLIMBING AREAS
North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall , Mawson Slab, Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave , Sentinel Wall , The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant ,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area
960m from carpark. 36.53663s, 142.23.178e.
Keep following the base of the cliff line south west from White Wall past acres of blank rock for 300m until the cliff starts to breaks down. At the first opportunity scramble up the small wall on the right. There should be a small rock cairn halfway up this 6m wall which shows the way. If you miss this step-up you will end up stumbling around at the base of a short poxy cliff cursing the guidebook authors. At the time of this guidebook research there is a small man-made rock wall and sticks blocking the wrong path. Once above this short wall you will see a high orange wall, this is Upper Cut Lunch Wall where most of the sport routes are. Below and to the right of this wall are several of the trad routes.
Routes from 1-9 are on Lower Cut Lunch Wall. Routes from 10-18 are on Upper Cut Lunch Wall. Routes described from right to left. This wall gets full sun until about 1pm. It is cool and breezy and shady in the afternoon.
In the late 1980’s intrepid explorer Dave Vass started things rolling with the fine corner of 'The Snatch' (23). A year later Jon Bassindale dragged a few fellow Poms up the impressive and bold 'Romeo is Bleeding' (23) - which is unfortunately the only feasible line up the full height of the superb blank orange wall dominating the left side of the crag. The cliff remained un-loved for more than ten years until sport climbers began to notice the lovely orange rock high up on the ledge above the grey jugs. Kent Paterson and Julian Saunders both inspected the wall but abandoned first ascent attempts because of the seemingly bad access. This didn’t stop Neil Monteith and Nick McKinnon from appearing in 2001 and cleaning up a swag of quality sport routes and establishing an easy way up to the ledge. The addition of a few gnarly trad routes in the last few years has filled in the gaps.
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