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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 142.387624, -36.895067
A small sport climbing area with a few intermediate graded face routes on compact grey and orange rock. The holds tend to be sloping and pumpy.
- Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):
People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.
To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff , Gunn Buttress , Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area , Andersens , Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, Turtle Rocks, Sandinista Cliffs, Pensioners Wall Area, Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys , Hollow Mountain Cave, Legoland, Cut Lunch Walls , Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall , The Dungeon, Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder
Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder
*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders ,The Plaza Strip, The Snake Pit , Trackside Boulders. Citadel . Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall ,Epsilon Wall ,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land , Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 4 Cornered Crag, Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls
Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag , Sunstroke Area , Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, Second Tier, Third Tier , North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers , Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers
Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie , The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block, The Olive Cave, The Ravine
CLOSED CLIMBING AREAS
North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall , Mawson Slab, Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave , Sentinel Wall , The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant ,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area
Long/Lat: 142.387517, -36.895063
Some easier juggy sport climbs on weird blobby grey rock. Hidden away on a ledge system above the access track to VD Land. Gets earlier shade than some of the other crags here. Not a great place for kids and large groups due to the scrambly access and deep ravine.
The approach is a little tricky. Scramble up right leading ramp to base of Koalasquasty Wall. Walk 50m left from Koalasquasty to short bit of rope hanging over rock step. Hand over hand up this then left across ledge to enter slot and routes. Parts of this may be marked with cairns. Routes start down in the base of this slot. Take care not to fall down or drop things into the crevasse below the belay chockstones!
Rightmost route on the wall up orange scoops.
MC Hammer Drill
Second route from the right on the wall on grey juggy rock - which actually isn't that juggy! Fixed hangers.
One of the best easier sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Knob ridden terrain with a slight left trending line. Fixed hangers and lower-off.
Lost in Translation
Starts on the chockstone down in the slot - belay off the ubolt. Very pleasant right trending wall climbing with a punchy pumpy finish.
Quite a bouldery little number. Translation - it's a sandbag! Start at first bolt of LIT then climb straight up with a series of really tough sideclings and no feet. Nick Sutter fell off this.
The original route on the wall and probably the best. Featured steep wall climbing. Slight left trending route with a bouldery middle section on slopey holds. A mix of ubolts and fixed hangers.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2005
Bouldery crux. First bolt of 'Back Stabbath' then slight left leading line which punches through a small orange shield of great rock. Bottom is a bit sandy.
Cool Crux Clan
A big low traverse left from the chockstone belay then up the grey juggy wall. Tricky mantle to finish.
Very problematic access! Located on the far left end of the crag. To start the climb you need to rig an abseil rope from rock bollards or trad on the slabby side, abseil down into the trench and do a hanging belay in the chimney. Head down left side of void (facing VD Land) climb down trick void, bridge accross, clip bolt, unclip first bolt, pull onto face and up left and up the orange wall. Confused? Apparently it's missing an anchor as well.
Long/Lat: 142.387736, -36.895076
Grampians answer to Thompson's Point Descent Gully Walls. A small area with a few good easier ring bolted face routes on compact grey and orange rock. The holds tend to be sloping and very pumpy. This is a good warm-up area for Van Dieman's Land. Most of the climbs were established by Neil Monteith and friends in 2004/2005. In 2008 a few easier routes were established with the funding of RMIT Outdoor Club.
Follow cairned path from Cut Lunch Walls for 100m south-east along the base of cliff-line, through some thick bush to small ravine. The south-western (right) side of the ravine should have obvious ring-bolts and chalk. If you don't see bolts you are probably in a lower ravine, walk back out and find the upper ravine. To access Upper Tribute Wall (Back Stabbath) either top-out on a route on the ravine, or scramble up and left from the belay terrace of Koalasquatsy Wall for 50m. All routes have lower-off anchors. Cliff is in the shade from late morning. Routes described from right to left.
Curving right facing slabby flake near the east entrance of the 'Tribute Wall' ravine. A tree touches the wall about 7m up making upwards progress difficult!
FA: James McIntosh & Mick Jennings, 1998
Justin Tymerlake 18 variant
The 18 Varient -Was once dodgy piece of trad climbing - now retrobolted. Starts at the entrance to 'Tribute Wall', 10m before Jet. Boulder problem start then climbing eases quickly. There is an easier start to the right which makes the route a consistent 18.
Was once dodgy piece of trad climbing - now retrobolted. Starts at the entrance to 'Tribute Wall', 10m before Jet. Boulder problem start then climbing eases quickly. There is an easier start to the right which makes the route a consistent 18.
Starts up Jet for two bolts then veers right past 3 FH's to lower off. A little run out.
Less sustained but cruxier than 'By Jovi'. Bolted route starting in front of small pine tree.
FA: Nick McKinnon Neil Monteith Kent Paterson Will Monks, 2004
Fingery and sustained climbing with nigh all rests. Starts 4m left of Jet at central line of RB's up turtle shell featured wall.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2004
Excellent wall climb that was originally led (boldly) on trad gear. Start in the 'green', 3m left of 'By Jovi', directly below orange jug and very large pocket.
FA: Steve, Robin ect
Grey slightly overhung gritty wall climbing. This climb is a very good warm-up for harder routes in the area at it is pumpy with no sharp holds. Originally a trad route.
FA: Neil Monteith Gareth Llewellin, 2004
Lines N' Noses
Fun little jug fest up the left side of the wall on a subtle arete. Starts 1.5m left of 'In Halen' at left edge of main wall.
FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2005
A bouldery start, eases to good holds.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2008
Steep climbing on big jugs. Nice, easy warm up.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2008
Imposing ringbolted wide crack on left end of 'Tribute Wall'. Luckily there is an abundance of jugs on either side of the crack to make it a nice stemming problem. Start on left side of pit. Step right to RB on right side of crack, then mantle onto ledge. 'Problematic' move up wide crack gains jugs on right wall, then easier (put steep!) climbing to top. 5 RBs and lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2008
|15||10am||15m||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|Maiden China||513m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|16||Hot Play||49m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|17||The Suburbs||515m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|Inxcessive||513m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|18||MC Hammer Drill||516m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|Pink Void||615m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|Justin Tymerlake 18 variant||20m||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|Lines N' Noses||412m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|19||Lost in Translation||717m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|In Halen||413m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|20||Cool Crux Clan||18m||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|21||Back Stabbath||617m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|22||Pant Tearer||16m||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|Midnight Soiled||514m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|23||Olympic Airways||715m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|By Jovi||414m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|24||Powderfingers||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|Jet||414m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|25||Justin Tymerlake||412m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|Noasis||512m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|