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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 142.387624, -36.895067
A small sport climbing area with a few intermediate graded face routes on compact grey and orange rock. The holds tend to be sloping and pumpy.
- Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria:
Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)
In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.
The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.
Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.
As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.
Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:
- Central Buttress
- Grey & Green Walls
- Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
- Spurt Wall
- Epsilon Wall
- Trackside Bouldering area
- Spurt and Afterglow
Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.
Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.
Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.
For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:
Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Flat Rock
- Wonderland Range
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt William Range
- Victoria Point area
- Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt Arapiles
- Mt Talbot
- The Black Range
Please remember your climbing etiquette:
- Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
- Stick to tracks
- Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
- Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
- Be mindful of cleaning
- No chipping or bolting
- Avoid excessive chalk
- Take your rubbish home with you
Some easier juggy sport climbs on weird blobby grey rock. Hidden away on a ledge system above the access track to VD Land. Gets earlier shade than some of the other crags here. Not a great place for kids and large groups due to the scrambly access and deep ravine.
The approach is a little tricky. Scramble up right leading ramp to base of Koalasquasty Wall. Walk 50m left from Koalasquasty to short bit of rope hanging over rock step. Hand over hand up this then left across ledge to enter slot and routes. Parts of this may be marked with cairns. Routes start down in the base of this slot. Take care not to fall down or drop things into the crevasse below the belay chockstones!
Rightmost route on the wall up orange scoops.
MC Hammer Drill
Second route from the right on the wall on grey juggy rock - which actually isn't that juggy! Fixed hangers.
One of the best easier sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Knob ridden terrain with a slight left trending line. Fixed hangers and lower-off.
Lost in Translation
Starts on the chockstone down in the slot - belay off the ubolt. Very pleasant right trending wall climbing with a punchy pumpy finish.
Quite a bouldery little number. Translation - it's a sandbag! Start at first bolt of LIT then climb straight up with a series of really tough sideclings and no feet. Nick Sutter fell off this.
The original route on the wall and probably the best. Featured steep wall climbing. Slight left trending route with a bouldery middle section on slopey holds. A mix of ubolts and fixed hangers.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2005
Bouldery crux. First bolt of 'Back Stabbath' then slight left leading line which punches through a small orange shield of great rock. Bottom is a bit sandy.
Cool Crux Clan
A big low traverse left from the chockstone belay then up the grey juggy wall. Tricky mantle to finish.
Very problematic access! Located on the far left end of the crag. To start the climb you need to rig an abseil rope from rock bollards or trad on the slabby side, abseil down into the trench and do a hanging belay in the chimney. Head down left side of void (facing VD Land) climb down trick void, bridge accross, clip bolt, unclip first bolt, pull onto face and up left and up the orange wall. Confused? Apparently it's missing an anchor as well.
Grampians answer to Thompson's Point Descent Gully Walls. A small area with a few good easier ring bolted face routes on compact grey and orange rock. The holds tend to be sloping and very pumpy. This is a good warm-up area for Van Dieman's Land. Most of the climbs were established by Neil Monteith and friends in 2004/2005. In 2008 a few easier routes were established with the funding of RMIT Outdoor Club.
Follow cairned path from Cut Lunch Walls for 100m south-east along the base of cliff-line, through some thick bush to small ravine. The south-western (right) side of the ravine should have obvious ring-bolts and chalk. If you don't see bolts you are probably in a lower ravine, walk back out and find the upper ravine. To access Upper Tribute Wall (Back Stabbath) either top-out on a route on the ravine, or scramble up and left from the belay terrace of Koalasquatsy Wall for 50m. All routes have lower-off anchors. Cliff is in the shade from late morning. Routes described from right to left.
Curving right facing slabby flake near the east entrance of the 'Tribute Wall' ravine. A tree touches the wall about 7m up making upwards progress difficult!
FA: James McIntosh & Mick Jennings, 1998
Justin Tymerlake 18 variant
The 18 Varient -Was once dodgy piece of trad climbing - now retrobolted. Starts at the entrance to 'Tribute Wall', 10m before Jet. Boulder problem start then climbing eases quickly. There is an easier start to the right which makes the route a consistent 18.
Was once dodgy piece of trad climbing - now retrobolted. Starts at the entrance to 'Tribute Wall', 10m before Jet. Boulder problem start then climbing eases quickly. There is an easier start to the right which makes the route a consistent 18.
Starts up Jet for two bolts then veers right past 3 FH's to lower off. A little run out.
Less sustained but cruxier than 'By Jovi'. Bolted route starting in front of small pine tree.
FA: Nick McKinnon Neil Monteith Kent Paterson Will Monks, 2004
Fingery and sustained climbing with nigh all rests. Starts 4m left of Jet at central line of RB's up turtle shell featured wall.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2004
Excellent wall climb that was originally led (boldly) on trad gear. Start in the 'green', 3m left of 'By Jovi', directly below orange jug and very large pocket.
FA: Steve, Robin ect
Grey slightly overhung gritty wall climbing. This climb is a very good warm-up for harder routes in the area at it is pumpy with no sharp holds. Originally a trad route.
FA: Neil Monteith Gareth Llewellin, 2004
|18 to 19||413m,|
Lines N' Noses
Fun little jug fest up the left side of the wall on a subtle arete. Starts 1.5m left of 'In Halen' at left edge of main wall.
FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2005
A bouldery start, eases to go holds.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2008
Steep climbing on big jugs. Nice, easy warm up.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2008
Imposing ringbolted wide crack on left end of 'Tribute Wall'. Luckily there is an abundance of jugs on either side of the crack to make it a nice stemming problem. Start on left side of pit. Step right to RB on right side of crack, then mantle onto ledge. 'Problematic' move up wide crack gains jugs on right wall, then easier (put steep!) climbing to top. 5 RBs and lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2008
|15||10am||15m||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|Maiden China||513m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|16||Hot Play||49m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|17||The Suburbs||515m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|Inxcessive||513m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|18||MC Hammer Drill||516m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|Pink Void||615m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|Justin Tymerlake 18 variant||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|Lines N' Noses||412m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|18 to 19||In Halen||413m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|19||Lost in Translation||717m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|20||Cool Crux Clan||18m||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|21||Back Stabbath||617m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|22||Pant Tearer||16m||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|Midnight Soiled||514m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|23||Olympic Airways||715m,||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|By Jovi||414m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|24||Powderfingers||1.1. Tribute Wall Upper|
|Jet||414m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|25||Justin Tymerlake||412m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|
|Noasis||512m,||1.2. Tribute Wall Lower|