Route Grade Style Popularity
Good mixed climbing. Starts 7m right of '
Us Esoterics' and 2m right of the arete (Wheels of Steel). The best spot for the belayer is on the ledge / block a few metres below. Boulder start up tiny corner (FH) to thin crux crack (FH). Wander up slabby jugs to blank bulge (FH) and onwards up steep juggy wall. Rap anchor. Full rack required including small wires.
FA: Neil Monteith & Mike File, 2005
Wheels Of Steel
Stunning prominent orange arête that was strangely ignored by previous climbers. The prow with the undercut start 5m right of '
Us Esoterics'. Leap for jug, cut loose out right to arête. Bouldery moves up this on delightful dishes leads to easier climbing before final pumpy bulge. 7 bolts and double ring lower-off. Was originally led on two bolts but sense prevailed and now it’s a very pleasant sport outing.
FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006
Outstanding and varied line. The magnificent orange face 3-5m to the right of
Koalasquatsy. Start up Koalasquatsy for 5m and then lurch rightwards on slopers to a RB. Up the face above (RB) then over tricky roof to gain hanging right facing flake. Up this to DRB lower-off in small cave. The route used to top-out up the major choss before SCV installed the anchors.
FA: Dave Vass & John Gallstone, 1988
Brilliant varied wall climbing with a thin crimpy finish. Up Koalasquatsy for 5m (wires). Lean right to clip u-bolt on rooflet. Out right then up pumpy flake, step left into heucos then over roof to final tricky headwall. 6 UBs and lower-off.
Koalasquatsy Pitch 1
Major left facing black corner protected by spaced small wires. Start on the far right side of ledge below landmark corner. The first half is an excellent grade 17 to the ledge (rap chain). The second half is sustained and scary. Has been led as a two pitch route.
FA: Brian Alder & Eric X, 1986
Drought conditions only! And take brackets for the bolts. The black gritty water streak 3m left of Koalasquasty. Medium wires protect the moves to the first BR, then layaway and stem up the subtle line past another two BRs. #1 SLCD in horizontal for finish move onto belay ledge. Rap off chain.
FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2005
Expect some big whips! A mystery single rusty bolt has been on this route for many years but remained un-claimed. Neil then climbed it all on trad graded it 22 and then attempted a repeat a week later with bolts and couldn't do the moves!
It is now a sport route with an exciting finish. Starts about 2m right of Ooh Ooh Ahh Ahh at slab. Boulder up to first bolt, pump through horizontals then undercling up to shallow pockets and right facing flake. Now, launch for the top ledge! 4 UBs and lower-off. Last bolt is a desperate clip if you are short, best to climb Dry Spell and pre-place draws.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2006
Forever Young Extension (OPEN Project)
From the ledge keep going up wall above. OPEN project - feel free to give it a lash. Grade 29-30 ish ???
Ooh, Ooh, Aah, Aah
Nice finger-crack first pitch, frightening grit style second pitch. The bulge and finger-crack 10m left of '
14m (21) (
Ooh Ooh) Up the crack to small ledge. It is possible to walk off left here to rap bollards.
10m (23) (Aah Aah) Exciting climbing up the arete leads to the top. This pitch is seriously lacking in good protection.
FA: Dave Vass & Brian Alder, 1986
It might be easy, but is sure ain't fun. The squeeze chimney just to the left of Ooh Ooh Aah Aah. Up easy jugs, delve into the depths and emerge with little self-respect. There isn't much protection in the chimney.
FA: Marcus Wallaby (?) Solo, 1986
Scary protruding jugs. Will they snap off? Starts 3m left of
The Slit. Up to the cave, exit straight up above the cave to finish through the bulging crack at the top. Bring some slings to tie off the handle bar jugs.
FA: Diana Rice, Helen Watson & Ginny Kneebone, 1988
The short pocketed seam directly below '
Koalasquatsy'. Bouldery. Start below ' Koalasquatsy Wall'.
FA: Kent Paterson, 2010