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Description

Home of some beautiful rock, mighty lines and a few easy scary jug-fests. Renewed interest in this area has created a good collection of varied classics. This is the south-eastern continuation of 'Cut Lunch Walls', with the two being separated by the awesome but very blank 30m wall of immaculate orange stone.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

From 'Cut Lunch Walls' follow a (sometimes) cairned rock ridge following the big blank cliff-line as closely as possible. About 80m left of 'Raindancer' and on a ledge above is 'Koalasquatsy Wall'. The black corner of 'Koalasquatsy' and the amazing south facing orange wall of 'Us Esoterics' should be obvious. To get onto the belay ledge keep walking 50m south (towards 'Tribute' Wall) and scramble back R up a small gully. Descent for most of these climbs are dedicated rap anchors, however for the longer older routes it is via bollard slings near the top of Ooh Ooh Aah Aah or by ringbolts above Cut Lunch Wall. Crag faces into the sun in the morning. Routes described right to left.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 * Tranquilizer Mixed 20m, 3

Good mixed climbing. Starts 7m right of 'Us Esoterics' and 2m right of the arete (Wheels of Steel). The best spot for the belayer is on the ledge / block a few metres below. Boulder start up tiny corner (FH) to thin crux crack (FH). Wander up slabby jugs to blank bulge (FH) and onwards up steep juggy wall. Rap anchor. Full rack required including small wires.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mike File, 2005

2
26 ** Wheels Of Steel Sport 18m, 7

Stunning prominent orange arête that was strangely ignored by previous climbers. The prow with the undercut start 5m right of 'Us Esoterics'. Leap for jug, cut loose out right to arête. Bouldery moves up this on delightful dishes leads to easier climbing before final pumpy bulge. 7 bolts and double ring lower-off. Was originally led on two bolts but sense prevailed and now it’s a very pleasant sport outing.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006

3
23 *** Us Esoterics Mixed 25m, 2

Outstanding and varied line. The magnificent orange face 3-5m to the right of Koalasquatsy. Start up Koalasquatsy for 5m and then lurch rightwards on slopers to a RB. Up the face above (RB) then over tricky roof to gain hanging right facing flake. Up this to DRB lower-off in small cave. The route used to top-out up the major choss before SCV installed the anchors.

FA: Dave Vass & John Gallstone, 1988

4
25 ** Candy Daze Mixed 25m, 6

Brilliant varied wall climbing with a thin crimpy finish. Up Koalasquatsy for 5m (wires). Lean right to clip u-bolt on rooflet. Out right then up pumpy flake, step left into heucos then over roof to final tricky headwall. 6 UBs and lower-off.

FA: kp

6
21 R * Koalasquatsy Trad 20m

Major left facing black corner protected by spaced small wires. Start on the far right side of ledge below landmark corner. The first half is an excellent grade 17 to the ledge (rap chain). The second half is sustained and scary. Has been led as a two pitch route.

FA: Brian Alder & Eric X, 1986

7
20 * Dry Spell Mixed 15m, 3

Drought conditions only! And take brackets for the bolts. The black gritty water streak 3m left of Koalasquasty. Medium wires protect the moves to the first BR, then layaway and stem up the subtle line past another two BRs. #1 SLCD in horizontal for finish move onto belay ledge. Rap off chain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2005

8
23 ** Forever Young Sport 15m, 4

Expect some big whips! A mystery single rusty bolt has been on this route for many years but remained un-claimed. Neil then climbed it all on trad graded it 22 and then attempted a repeat a week later with bolts and couldn't do the moves! It is now a sport route with an exciting finish. Starts about 2m right of Ooh Ooh Ahh Ahh at slab. Boulder up to first bolt, pump through horizontals then undercling up to shallow pockets and right facing flake. Now, launch for the top ledge! 4 UBs and lower-off. Last bolt is a desperate clip if you are short, best to climb Dry Spell and pre-place draws.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

9

From the ledge keep going up wall above. OPEN project - feel free to give it a lash. Grade 29-30 ish ???

10
21 ** Ooh Ooh Trad 12m
11
23 R ** Ooh, Ooh, Aah, Aah Trad 20m

Nice finger-crack first pitch, frightening grit style second pitch. The bulge and finger-crack 10m left of 'Koalasquatsy'.

  1. 14m (21) (Ooh Ooh) Up the crack to small ledge. It is possible to walk off left here to rap bollards.

  2. 10m (23) (Aah Aah) Exciting climbing up the arete leads to the top. This pitch is seriously lacking in good protection.

FA: Dave Vass & Brian Alder, 1986

12
10 The Slit Trad 20m

It might be easy, but is sure ain't fun. The squeeze chimney just to the left of Ooh Ooh Aah Aah. Up easy jugs, delve into the depths and emerge with little self-respect. There isn't much protection in the chimney.

FA: Marcus Wallaby (?) Solo, 1986

13
15 Scarfies Trad 20m

Scary protruding jugs. Will they snap off? Starts 3m left of The Slit. Up to the cave, exit straight up above the cave to finish through the bulging crack at the top. Bring some slings to tie off the handle bar jugs.

FA: Diana Rice, Helen Watson & Ginny Kneebone, 1988

14
22 Numerology Sport 8m, 3

The short pocketed seam directly below 'Koalasquatsy'. Bouldery. Start below 'Koalasquatsy Wall'.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010