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Description

Home of some beautiful rock, mighty lines and a few easy scary jug-fests. Renewed interest in this area has created a good collection of varied classics. This is the south-eastern continuation of 'Cut Lunch Walls', with the two being separated by the awesome but very blank 30m wall of immaculate orange stone.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Legoland, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine

CLOSED CLIMBING AREAS

Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
G-Land, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff

Approach

From 'Cut Lunch Walls' follow a (sometimes) cairned rock ridge following the big blank cliff-line as closely as possible. About 80m left of 'Raindancer' and on a ledge above is 'Koalasquatsy Wall'. The black corner of 'Koalasquatsy' and the amazing south facing orange wall of 'Us Esoterics' should be obvious. To get onto the belay ledge keep walking 50m south (towards 'Tribute' Wall) and scramble back R up a small gully. Descent for most of these climbs are dedicated rap anchors, however for the longer older routes it is via bollard slings near the top of Ooh Ooh Aah Aah or by ringbolts above Cut Lunch Wall. Crag faces into the sun in the morning. Routes described right to left.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 * Tranquilizer Mixed 20m, 3

Good mixed climbing. Starts 7m right of 'Us Esoterics' and 2m right of the arete (Wheels of Steel). The best spot for the belayer is on the ledge / block a few metres below. Boulder start up tiny corner (FH) to thin crux crack (FH). Wander up slabby jugs to blank bulge (FH) and onwards up steep juggy wall. Rap anchor. Full rack required including small wires.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mike File, 2005

2
26 ** Wheels Of Steel Sport 18m, 7

Stunning prominent orange arête that was strangely ignored by previous climbers. The prow with the undercut start 5m right of 'Us Esoterics'. Leap for jug, cut loose out right to arête. Bouldery moves up this on delightful dishes leads to easier climbing before final pumpy bulge. 7 bolts and double ring lower-off. Was originally led on two bolts but sense prevailed and now it’s a very pleasant sport outing.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006

3
23 *** Us Esoterics Mixed 25m, 2

Outstanding and varied line. The magnificent orange face 3-5m to the right of Koalasquatsy. Start up Koalasquatsy for 5m and then lurch rightwards on slopers to a RB. Up the face above (RB) then over tricky roof to gain hanging right facing flake. Up this to DRB lower-off in small cave. The route used to top-out up the major choss before SCV installed the anchors.

FA: Dave Vass & John Gallstone, 1988

4
25 ** Candy Daze Mixed 25m, 6

Brilliant varied wall climbing with a thin crimpy finish. Up Koalasquatsy for 5m (wires). Lean right to clip u-bolt on rooflet. Out right then up pumpy flake, step left into heucos then over roof to final tricky headwall. 6 UBs and lower-off.

FA: kp

6
21 R * Koalasquatsy Trad 20m

Major left facing black corner protected by spaced small wires. Start on the far right side of ledge below landmark corner. The first half is an excellent grade 17 to the ledge (rap chain). The second half is sustained and scary. Has been led as a two pitch route.

FA: Brian Alder & Eric X, 1986

7
20 * Dry Spell Mixed 15m, 3

Drought conditions only! And take brackets for the bolts. The black gritty water streak 3m left of Koalasquasty. Medium wires protect the moves to the first BR, then layaway and stem up the subtle line past another two BRs. #1 SLCD in horizontal for finish move onto belay ledge. Rap off chain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2005

8
23 ** Forever Young Sport 15m, 4

Expect some big whips! A mystery single rusty bolt has been on this route for many years but remained un-claimed. Neil then climbed it all on trad graded it 22 and then attempted a repeat a week later with bolts and couldn't do the moves! It is now a sport route with an exciting finish. Starts about 2m right of Ooh Ooh Ahh Ahh at slab. Boulder up to first bolt, pump through horizontals then undercling up to shallow pockets and right facing flake. Now, launch for the top ledge! 4 UBs and lower-off. Last bolt is a desperate clip if you are short, best to climb Dry Spell and pre-place draws.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

9

From the ledge keep going up wall above. OPEN project - feel free to give it a lash. Grade 29-30 ish ???

10
21 ** Ooh Ooh Trad 12m
11
23 R ** Ooh, Ooh, Aah, Aah Trad 20m 2

Nice finger-crack first pitch, frightening grit style second pitch. The bulge and finger-crack 10m left of 'Koalasquatsy'.

  1. 14m (21) (Ooh Ooh) Up the crack to small ledge. It is possible to walk off left here to rap bollards.

  2. 10m (23) (Aah Aah) Exciting climbing up the arete leads to the top. This pitch is seriously lacking in good protection.

FA: Dave Vass & Brian Alder, 1986

12
10 The Slit Trad 20m

It might be easy, but is sure ain't fun. The squeeze chimney just to the left of Ooh Ooh Aah Aah. Up easy jugs, delve into the depths and emerge with little self-respect. There isn't much protection in the chimney.

FA: Marcus Wallaby (?) Solo, 1986

13
15 Scarfies Trad 20m

Scary protruding jugs. Will they snap off? Starts 3m left of The Slit. Up to the cave, exit straight up above the cave to finish through the bulging crack at the top. Bring some slings to tie off the handle bar jugs.

FA: Diana Rice, Helen Watson & Ginny Kneebone, 1988

14
22 Numerology Sport 8m, 3

The short pocketed seam directly below 'Koalasquatsy'. Bouldery. Start below 'Koalasquatsy Wall'.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

Activity

Check out what is happening in Koalasquatsy Wall.