Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 Urban Guerilla Trad 45m

A few interesting moves down low.

Start: Starts almost immediately left of where the tourist track swings back right and cuts up through the cliff line. A small tree and stump is at the base. The route is marked with a white square.

  1. 18m (22) Up a few metres (crux) on flakes and pockets, step right to the slabby closed orange corner, and up this to a ledge. Traverse 5m right.

  2. 25m (18) Follow the stepped line up and left to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff (alt leads), 1983

2
21 * Firepower Trad 55m

The crux pitch is a gem. The rest is very average. Best to skip the first two pitches and walk in via 'Hamster Roof'.

Start: Starts 6m left of the tourist track. The shallow orange corner with a gum tree growing out at 2m.

  1. 10m (21) Up the shallow blocky corner to step left.

  2. 20m (21) The short diagonal crack which tends left to meet the easier rightward leaning line, and so to a ledge.

  3. 15m (21) Crux. Walk 5m left to the large 35 degree overhanging right facing corner. Up this with difficulty, then step right at top onto juggy grey wall and onwards to ledge. Scramble off to the left to exit.

FA: Jeff Lamb & Kevin Lindorff (Var leads), 1983

3
4
21 * Guinea Pig Flake Trad 30m

Start: Starts 2m right of the top pitch of 'Firepower', which is 10m left of 'Hamster Roof'.

  1. 15m (21) Up the crazily overhanging flake and beyond to the terrace.

  2. 15m (21) Wander up right easily.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1990

5
18 Mujaheddin Trad 75m
6

Starts 5m left of 'Mujahideen' at a left leaning corner.

  1. 15m (21) Left and up the corner to the crack and overhang at 5m. Move left on the ledge then up on a good slope to a few steep juggy moves up and right to an inverted V corner and big ledge.

  2. 20m (21) Up closed corner, left-ward under the overhang then left and then left and up to join 'Mujahideen' near top of its second pitch. Finish as for that climb.

FA: Simon Atkins and Michael Woodrow Alts

7
20 Tupamaros Trad 45m

Start: Starts at the little grey undercut corner a little way left of 'Mujahideen'.

  1. 20m (20) Up, then tend left taking the line of least resistance to the big ledge.

  2. 10m (20) Crux. Take the twin face cracks on the rightward facing wall (left of the impressive blank corner). Move around left and up to big ledge.

  3. 15m (15) Traverse easily left to the prominent line. Up this.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kieran Loughran, 1980

8
21 Gunboat Diplomacy Trad 65m

Initialled. Varied and interesting, especially with the direct finish.

Start: Starts about 15-20m left of 'Mujahideen', at an aesthetic rightwards leaning layback crack/groove.

  1. 25m (21) Up the groove and straight up blocky corner (without piking out left onto the nose!) to the bulge. Negotiate this and up a few metres to a ledge.

  2. 40m (21) The major right facing corner starting on ledge. (the top of this pitch is the same as for Tupamaros).

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff (Alt leads), 1983

9

Start: From the terrace below the final section of 'Gunboat Diplomacy' take the prominent overhanging flake which is a five metres right of the last pitch corner pitch of 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. When the flake peters out, move up left to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

10
30 * Red October Trad 15m

Un-repeated? Short, smooth and hard.

Start: The right hand hanging corner from the terrace above 'Gunboat Diplomacy' and 20m left of 'Guinea Pig Flake'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990

11
26 * Hamster Roof Mixed 27m, 2

Another trademark HB roof climb. Shitty looking rock but climbs well.

Start: The flaky roof on the right side of the terrace immediately above Gunboat Diplomacy's first pitch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990