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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A few interesting moves down low.

Start: Starts almost immediately left of where the tourist track swings back right and cuts up through the cliff line. A small tree and stump is at the base. The route is marked with a white square.

  1. 18m (22) Up a few metres (crux) on flakes and pockets, step right to the slabby closed orange corner, and up this to a ledge. Traverse 5m right.

  2. 25m (18) Follow the stepped line up and left to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff (alt leads), 1983

The crux pitch is a gem. The rest is very average. Best to skip the first two pitches and walk in via 'Hamster Roof'.

Start: Starts 6m left of the tourist track. The shallow orange corner with a gum tree growing out at 2m.

  1. 10m (21) Up the shallow blocky corner to step left.

  2. 20m (21) The short diagonal crack which tends left to meet the easier rightward leaning line, and so to a ledge.

  3. 15m (21) Crux. Walk 5m left to the large 35 degree overhanging right facing corner. Up this with difficulty, then step right at top onto juggy grey wall and onwards to ledge. Scramble off to the left to exit.

FA: Jeff Lamb & Kevin Lindorff (Var leads), 1983

Start: Starts 2m right of the top pitch of 'Firepower', which is 10m left of 'Hamster Roof'.

  1. 15m (21) Up the crazily overhanging flake and beyond to the terrace.

  2. 15m (21) Wander up right easily.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1990

Starts 5m left of 'Mujahideen' at a left leaning corner.

  1. 15m (21) Left and up the corner to the crack and overhang at 5m. Move left on the ledge then up on a good slope to a few steep juggy moves up and right to an inverted V corner and big ledge.

  2. 20m (21) Up closed corner, left-ward under the overhang then left and then left and up to join 'Mujahideen' near top of its second pitch. Finish as for that climb.

FA: Simon Atkins & Michael Woodrow Alts

Start: Starts at the little grey undercut corner a little way left of 'Mujahideen'.

  1. 20m (20) Up, then tend left taking the line of least resistance to the big ledge.

  2. 10m (20) Crux. Take the twin face cracks on the rightward facing wall (left of the impressive blank corner). Move around left and up to big ledge.

  3. 15m (15) Traverse easily left to the prominent line. Up this.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kieran Loughran, 1980

Initialled. Varied and interesting, especially with the direct finish.

Start: Starts about 15-20m left of 'Mujahideen', at an aesthetic rightwards leaning layback crack/groove.

  1. 25m (21) Up the groove and straight up blocky corner (without piking out left onto the nose!) to the bulge. Negotiate this and up a few metres to a ledge.

  2. 40m (21) The major right facing corner starting on ledge. (the top of this pitch is the same as for Tupamaros).

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff (Alt leads), 1983

Start: From the terrace below the final section of 'Gunboat Diplomacy' take the prominent overhanging flake which is a five metres right of the last pitch corner pitch of 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. When the flake peters out, move up left to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Un-repeated? Short, smooth and hard.

Start: The right hand hanging corner from the terrace above 'Gunboat Diplomacy' and 20m left of 'Guinea Pig Flake'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990

Another trademark HB roof climb. Shitty looking rock but climbs well.

Start: The flaky roof on the right side of the terrace immediately above Gunboat Diplomacy's first pitch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990

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