Route Grade Style Popularity
Mods?, What Mods?
Average at best. A route that rises diagonally rightward, ending up on the big ledge as for '
Start: Starts from the boulder under a chossy roof on the east facing cliff 10m or so around the corner from '
Gunboat Diplomacy'. The details of this route are still as fresh as daisies in the memories of the first ascensionists.
FA: Jerry Maddox & Glenn Tempest, 1980
All The Presidents Men
Uninspiring chossy ramble which seems to share the start 10m with Mods? What Mods?
Start: Start from the boulder.
25m (17) Up the slabby wall to head left through the break in the bulge (poor rock) to belay on a ledge.
15m (17) Up left to, and then up, the final short headwall.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983
Rebel Without A Corset
Up slab to weakness in roof. Over this (hard) to hand traverse right on jugs to ledge. Wander up wall above to finish.
Start: Starts 8m left of '
All The Presidents Men'.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1985
Major right leaning 40 degree overhung corner. Pumpy, awkward and sustained. A climb for intelligent chimpanzees.
Start: Initialled. Starts 6m left of '
All The Presidents Men' at base of slab and major corner.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983
The Misty Ridge
FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005
One of the first routes climbed in the area and a major line.
Start: Start at the small leftward facing corner marked with a mystery 'E' (added after first ascent). About 40m left of '
Power Play' towards the right hand end of the White Wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Joan Schrameck, 1973
Keith returned 20 years after '
Pig Sticker' to score another good line. Lovely climbing on lovely rock.
Start: Start at the pinkish slab just right of the initial corner of '
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993
Up to overhang, swing energetically out left and straight up smooth grey wall above. Walk off upwards.
Start: From the start of '
Sunset Boulevard', walk right, along the sloping ledge for 9m to semi hanging belay below first break in overhang.
FA: Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2001
Nice rock but not very sustained.
Start: The next break to the right of '
FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside & Kieran Loughran, 2001
Santa Monica Boulevard
A mountaineering romp up a major feature.
Start: Squeezed in between '
Sunset Boulevard' and ' Pig Sticker'.
15m (17 M0) Up slab just right of '
Pig Sticker' for 8m to base of wide left facing flake corner. Ignore this and step 2m right to steep left facing hand crack in corner. Up this for 7m to ledge and belay.
40m (10 M0) Just like Peroxide Blonde but at one-tenth of the grade. Step around right up jugs to huge slabby arête. Up this arête staying as close to the left edge as possible for maximum exposure. The finish steepens slightly for full value. Walk off down via '
FA: James McInstosh & Mike Wust, 1998
Gritty slab climbing with a real granite feel.
Start: Starts 6m left of '
Pig Sticker' from the big ledge 6m up which is accessed by climbing up the tree leaning against the rock.
FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983
Bay Of Pigs aka Young And Cunning
An in-direct version of this route was also climbed in 1984 by a team including Peter Cunningham.
Start: Starts about 10m left of '
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983
Young And Cunning
Bay Of Pigs
Great central line up wall. Looks much harder than it is, though grade could be suspect - Nod led it in sandshoes because he forgot his climbing shoes. Take slings for pro.
12m (14) Right-facing corner at left end of '
Wire Guided' slab. First move off the deck is hardest. At top of corner a short chimney leads to a ledge.
38m (14) Stand on rocking boulder and jump for a jug just left of the water channel bisecting
White Wall. Pull onto wall and follow the channel all the way - sometimes on the left, sometimes on the right and sometimes in the middle.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Noel Whiteside, 2001
Nice easy jug climbing. Michael and Kevin must have needed a rest day after doing all the other hard routes in the area!
Access' is a bit of a pain and possibly the crux! Start perhaps 10-15m left of Bay Of Pigs by scrambling along the large ledge then follow it left and up to its continuation. Beginners might want to rope up for this traverse.
FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983
Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c.
Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite '
The Territorial Imperative'.
FA: Julian Saunders (solo), 2002
The Territorial Imperative
Attractive line - if you enjoy offwidths and runouts. The only viable route splitting the endless blankness on the far left side of
White Wall. The hidden second pitch looks really good.
Start: Locate the major left facing flake crack / chimney about 10m left of '
Panama Canal' back at ground level. The end of the first pitch finishes on the belay ledge for ' Panama Canal'. If you can't find this go back to the gym.
20m (20) Squeeze up behind the huge flake for 5m to ledge. Now layback the wide crack past a rusty BR and then easy but absorbing climbing to a spacious ledge. Some tiny SLCD are useful to protect the moves up to the bolt.
24m (20) Step up from the large boulder and traverse left to the prominent right leaning corner. Station a battalion to take care of dissenters, then push on to the top to plant the flag. A great pitch on perfect orange rock. Seeps in winter.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983