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Description

This prominent white-grey slab has a few amusing routes which are all pretty cruisy. Once you get past the steep lower section the angle relaxes to enjoyable juggy rambles.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

Walk left from the Tupamaros area following rock cairns through and around some boulders for about 50m. The wall ends at the giant wide left facing flake of The Territorial Imperative. Descent is east across the top of the Tupamaros area and down via assorted exposed ledges and gullies to join up with the tourist track at Red Wall. Expect to get lost. Crag blazes in the sun for most of the day. Routes listed right to left. There is some excellent highball bouldering at the base of The Territorial Imperative.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Average at best. A route that rises diagonally rightward, ending up on the big ledge as for 'Gunboat Diplomacy'.

Start: Starts from the boulder under a chossy roof on the east facing cliff 10m or so around the corner from 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. The details of this route are still as fresh as daisies in the memories of the first ascensionists.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Glenn Tempest, 1980

Uninspiring chossy ramble which seems to share the start 10m with Mods? What Mods?

Start: Start from the boulder.

  1. 25m (17) Up the slabby wall to head left through the break in the bulge (poor rock) to belay on a ledge.

  2. 15m (17) Up left to, and then up, the final short headwall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983

Up slab to weakness in roof. Over this (hard) to hand traverse right on jugs to ledge. Wander up wall above to finish.

Start: Starts 8m left of 'All The Presidents Men'.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1985

Major right leaning 40 degree overhung corner. Pumpy, awkward and sustained. A climb for intelligent chimpanzees.

Start: Initialled. Starts 6m left of 'All The Presidents Men' at base of slab and major corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005

One of the first routes climbed in the area and a major line.

Start: Start at the small leftward facing corner heading up to the obvious major L facing corner. About 40m left of 'Power Play' towards the right hand end of the White Wall. The short wide crack section is quite pushy. Can be split into 2 pitches.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Joan Schrameck, 1973

Keith returned 20 years after 'Pig Sticker' to score another good line. Lovely climbing on lovely rock.

Start: Start at the pinkish slab just right of the initial corner of 'Pig Sticker'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993

Up to overhang, swing energetically out left and straight up smooth grey wall above. Walk off upwards.

Start: From the start of 'Sunset Boulevard', walk right, along the sloping ledge for 9m to semi hanging belay below first break in overhang.

FA: Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2001

Nice rock but not very sustained.

Start: The next break to the right of 'Sunset Strip'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside & Kieran Loughran, 2001

A mountaineering romp up a major feature.

Start: Squeezed in between 'Sunset Boulevard' and 'Pig Sticker'.

  1. 15m (17 M0) Up slab just right of 'Pig Sticker' for 8m to base of wide left facing flake corner. Ignore this and step 2m right to steep left facing hand crack in corner. Up this for 7m to ledge and belay.

  2. 40m (10 M0) Just like Peroxide Blonde but at one-tenth of the grade. Step around right up jugs to huge slabby arête. Up this arête staying as close to the left edge as possible for maximum exposure. The finish steepens slightly for full value. Walk off down via 'Echoes' Block.

FA: James McInstosh & Mike Wust, 1998

Featured slabby climbing with a real granite feel.

Start: Starts 6m left of 'Pig Sticker' from the big ledge 6m up which is accessed by climbing up the tree leaning against the rock. Up the short corner-seam. Continue slightly R for a few metres then straight up slab to top. Protects surprisingly well with wires and small cams.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

An in-direct version of this route was also climbed in 1984 by a team including Peter Cunningham.

Start: Starts about 10m left of 'Wire Guided'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Great central line up wall. The original grade of 14 was definitely suspect - despite Nod having led it in sandshoes because he forgot his climbing shoes. Take slings for pro.

  1. 12m (14) Right-facing corner at left end of 'Wire Guided' slab. First move off the deck is hardest. At top of corner a short chimney leads to a ledge.

  2. 38m (18) Stand on rocking boulder and jump for a jug just left of the water channel bisecting White Wall. Pull onto wall and follow the channel all the way - sometimes on the left, sometimes on the right and sometimes in the middle. Some shorter climbers have had to resort to aid to start this pitch.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Noel Whiteside, 2001

Nice easy jug climbing. Michael and Kevin must have needed a rest day after doing all the other hard routes in the area!

Start: 'Access' is a bit of a pain and possibly the crux! Start perhaps 10-15m left of Bay Of Pigs by scrambling along the large ledge then follow it left and up to its continuation. Beginners might want to rope up for this traverse.

FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c.

Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'.

FA: Julian Saunders (solo), 2002

Attractive line - if you enjoy offwidths and runouts. The only viable route splitting the endless blankness on the far left side of White Wall. The hidden second pitch looks really good.

Start: Locate the major left facing flake crack / chimney about 10m left of 'Panama Canal' back at ground level. The end of the first pitch finishes on the belay ledge for 'Panama Canal'. If you can't find this go back to the gym.

  1. 20m (20) Squeeze up behind the huge flake for 5m to ledge. Now layback the wide crack past a rusty BR and then easy but absorbing climbing to a spacious ledge. Some tiny SLCD are useful to protect the moves up to the bolt.

  2. 24m (20) Step up from the large boulder and traverse left to the prominent right leaning corner. Station a battalion to take care of dissenters, then push on to the top to plant the flag. A great pitch on perfect orange rock. Seeps in winter.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Activity

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