A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
This prominent white-grey slab has a few amusing routes which are all pretty cruisy. Once you get past the steep lower section the angle relaxes to enjoyable juggy rambles.
- Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians
This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.
Here's an update from Parks Victoria:
Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)
The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.
Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.
Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.
As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.
Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.
Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.
Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.
For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:
Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:
- Wonderland Range
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt William Range
- Victoria Point area
- Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
- Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt Arapiles
- Mt Talbot
- The Black Range
Please remember your climbing etiquette:
- Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
- Stick to tracks
- Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
- Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
- Be mindful of cleaning
- No chipping or bolting
- Avoid excessive chalk
- Take your rubbish home with you
Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park
Walk left from the Tupamaros area following rock cairns through and around some boulders for about 50m. The wall ends at the giant wide left facing flake of The Territorial Imperative. Descent is east across the top of the Tupamaros area and down via assorted exposed ledges and gullies to join up with the tourist track at Red Wall. Expect to get lost. Crag blazes in the sun for most of the day. Routes listed right to left. There is some excellent highball bouldering at the base of The Territorial Imperative.
Mods?, What Mods?
Average at best. A route that rises diagonally rightward, ending up on the big ledge as for 'Gunboat Diplomacy'.
Start: Starts from the boulder under a chossy roof on the east facing cliff 10m or so around the corner from 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. The details of this route are still as fresh as daisies in the memories of the first ascensionists.
FA: Jerry Maddox & Glenn Tempest, 1980
All The Presidents Men
Uninspiring chossy ramble which seems to share the start 10m with Mods? What Mods?
Start: Start from the boulder.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983
Rebel Without A Corset
Up slab to weakness in roof. Over this (hard) to hand traverse right on jugs to ledge. Wander up wall above to finish.
Start: Starts 8m left of 'All The Presidents Men'.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1985
Major right leaning 40 degree overhung corner. Pumpy, awkward and sustained. A climb for intelligent chimpanzees.
Start: Initialled. Starts 6m left of 'All The Presidents Men' at base of slab and major corner.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983
The Misty Ridge
FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005
One of the first routes climbed in the area and a major line.
Start: Start at the small leftward facing corner heading up to the obvious major L facing corner. About 40m left of 'Power Play' towards the right hand end of the White Wall. The short wide crack section is quite pushy. Can be split into 2 pitches.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Joan Schrameck, 1973
Keith returned 20 years after 'Pig Sticker' to score another good line. Lovely climbing on lovely rock.
Start: Start at the pinkish slab just right of the initial corner of 'Pig Sticker'.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993
Up to overhang, swing energetically out left and straight up smooth grey wall above. Walk off upwards.
Start: From the start of 'Sunset Boulevard', walk right, along the sloping ledge for 9m to semi hanging belay below first break in overhang.
FA: Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2001
Nice rock but not very sustained.
Start: The next break to the right of 'Sunset Strip'.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside & Kieran Loughran, 2001
Santa Monica Boulevard
A mountaineering romp up a major feature.
FA: James McInstosh & Mike Wust, 1998
Featured slabby climbing with a real granite feel.
Start: Starts 6m left of 'Pig Sticker' from the big ledge 6m up which is accessed by climbing up the tree leaning against the rock. Up the short corner-seam. Continue slightly R for a few metres then straight up slab to top. Protects surprisingly well with wires and small cams.
FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983
Bay Of Pigs aka Young And Cunning
An in-direct version of this route was also climbed in 1984 by a team including Peter Cunningham.
Start: Starts about 10m left of 'Wire Guided'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983
|13||Young And Cunning||16||50m|
|14||Bay Of Pigs||16||35m|
Great central line up wall. The original grade of 14 was definitely suspect - despite Nod having led it in sandshoes because he forgot his climbing shoes. Take slings for pro.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Noel Whiteside, 2001
Nice easy jug climbing. Michael and Kevin must have needed a rest day after doing all the other hard routes in the area!
Start: 'Access' is a bit of a pain and possibly the crux! Start perhaps 10-15m left of Bay Of Pigs by scrambling along the large ledge then follow it left and up to its continuation. Beginners might want to rope up for this traverse.
FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983
Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c.
Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'.
FA: Julian Saunders (solo), 2002
The Territorial Imperative
Attractive line - if you enjoy offwidths and runouts. The only viable route splitting the endless blankness on the far left side of White Wall. The hidden second pitch looks really good.
Start: Locate the major left facing flake crack / chimney about 10m left of 'Panama Canal' back at ground level. The end of the first pitch finishes on the belay ledge for 'Panama Canal'. If you can't find this go back to the gym.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983
|16||Bay Of Pigs||35m|
|Bay Of Pigs aka Young And Cunning||40m|
|Young And Cunning||50m|
|17||All The Presidents Men||50m|
|Santa Monica Boulevard||55m|
|The Misty Ridge||60m|
|18||Mods?, What Mods?||60m|
|20||The Territorial Imperative||145m,|
|22||Rebel Without A Corset||20m|