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Table of contents

1. White Wall Area 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad
Description:

This prominent white-grey slab has a few amusing routes which are all pretty cruisy. Once you get past the steep lower section the angle relaxes to enjoyable juggy rambles.

Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you
Approach:

Walk left from the Tupamaros area following rock cairns through and around some boulders for about 50m. The wall ends at the giant wide left facing flake of The Territorial Imperative. Descent is east across the top of the Tupamaros area and down via assorted exposed ledges and gullies to join up with the tourist track at Red Wall. Expect to get lost. Crag blazes in the sun for most of the day. Routes listed right to left. There is some excellent highball bouldering at the base of The Territorial Imperative.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mods?, What Mods?

Average at best. A route that rises diagonally rightward, ending up on the big ledge as for 'Gunboat Diplomacy'.

Start: Starts from the boulder under a chossy roof on the east facing cliff 10m or so around the corner from 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. The details of this route are still as fresh as daisies in the memories of the first ascensionists.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Glenn Tempest, 1980

18Trad 60m
2 All The Presidents Men

Uninspiring chossy ramble which seems to share the start 10m with Mods? What Mods?

Start: Start from the boulder.

  1. 25m (17) Up the slabby wall to head left through the break in the bulge (poor rock) to belay on a ledge.

  2. 15m (17) Up left to, and then up, the final short headwall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983

17 RTrad 50m
3 Rebel Without A Corset

Up slab to weakness in roof. Over this (hard) to hand traverse right on jugs to ledge. Wander up wall above to finish.

Start: Starts 8m left of 'All The Presidents Men'.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1985

22Trad 20m
4 * Power Play

Major right leaning 40 degree overhung corner. Pumpy, awkward and sustained. A climb for intelligent chimpanzees.

Start: Initialled. Starts 6m left of 'All The Presidents Men' at base of slab and major corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983

23Trad 25m
5 The Misty Ridge

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005

17Trad 60m
6 Pig Sticker

One of the first routes climbed in the area and a major line.

Start: Start at the small leftward facing corner heading up to the obvious major L facing corner. About 40m left of 'Power Play' towards the right hand end of the White Wall. The short wide crack section is quite pushy. Can be split into 2 pitches.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Joan Schrameck, 1973

16Trad 50m
7 * Sunset Boulevard

Keith returned 20 years after 'Pig Sticker' to score another good line. Lovely climbing on lovely rock.

Start: Start at the pinkish slab just right of the initial corner of 'Pig Sticker'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993

15Trad 50m
8 Sunset Strip

Up to overhang, swing energetically out left and straight up smooth grey wall above. Walk off upwards.

Start: From the start of 'Sunset Boulevard', walk right, along the sloping ledge for 9m to semi hanging belay below first break in overhang.

FA: Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2001

14Trad 20m
9 Royal Parade

Nice rock but not very sustained.

Start: The next break to the right of 'Sunset Strip'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside & Kieran Loughran, 2001

14Trad 20m
10 Santa Monica Boulevard

A mountaineering romp up a major feature.

Start: Squeezed in between 'Sunset Boulevard' and 'Pig Sticker'.

  1. 15m (17 M0) Up slab just right of 'Pig Sticker' for 8m to base of wide left facing flake corner. Ignore this and step 2m right to steep left facing hand crack in corner. Up this for 7m to ledge and belay.

  2. 40m (10 M0) Just like Peroxide Blonde but at one-tenth of the grade. Step around right up jugs to huge slabby arête. Up this arête staying as close to the left edge as possible for maximum exposure. The finish steepens slightly for full value. Walk off down via 'Echoes' Block.

FA: James McInstosh & Mike Wust, 1998

17Trad 55m
11 Wire Guided

Featured slabby climbing with a real granite feel.

Start: Starts 6m left of 'Pig Sticker' from the big ledge 6m up which is accessed by climbing up the tree leaning against the rock. Up the short corner-seam. Continue slightly R for a few metres then straight up slab to top. Protects surprisingly well with wires and small cams.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

18 RTrad 50m
12 Bay Of Pigs aka Young And Cunning

An in-direct version of this route was also climbed in 1984 by a team including Peter Cunningham.

Start: Starts about 10m left of 'Wire Guided'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

16Trad 40m
13 Young And Cunning 16Trad 50m
14 Bay Of Pigs 16Trad 35m
15 * Venice

Great central line up wall. The original grade of 14 was definitely suspect - despite Nod having led it in sandshoes because he forgot his climbing shoes. Take slings for pro.

  1. 12m (14) Right-facing corner at left end of 'Wire Guided' slab. First move off the deck is hardest. At top of corner a short chimney leads to a ledge.

  2. 38m (18) Stand on rocking boulder and jump for a jug just left of the water channel bisecting White Wall. Pull onto wall and follow the channel all the way - sometimes on the left, sometimes on the right and sometimes in the middle. Some shorter climbers have had to resort to aid to start this pitch.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Noel Whiteside, 2001

18Trad 50m
16 Panama Canal

Nice easy jug climbing. Michael and Kevin must have needed a rest day after doing all the other hard routes in the area!

Start: 'Access' is a bit of a pain and possibly the crux! Start perhaps 10-15m left of Bay Of Pigs by scrambling along the large ledge then follow it left and up to its continuation. Beginners might want to rope up for this traverse.

FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

9 RTrad 25m
17 Orca

Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c.

Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'.

FA: Julian Saunders (solo), 2002

30 XTrad 8m
18 ** The Territorial Imperative

Attractive line - if you enjoy offwidths and runouts. The only viable route splitting the endless blankness on the far left side of White Wall. The hidden second pitch looks really good.

Start: Locate the major left facing flake crack / chimney about 10m left of 'Panama Canal' back at ground level. The end of the first pitch finishes on the belay ledge for 'Panama Canal'. If you can't find this go back to the gym.

  1. 20m (20) Squeeze up behind the huge flake for 5m to ledge. Now layback the wide crack past a rusty BR and then easy but absorbing climbing to a spacious ledge. Some tiny SLCD are useful to protect the moves up to the bolt.

  2. 24m (20) Step up from the large boulder and traverse left to the prominent right leaning corner. Station a battalion to take care of dissenters, then push on to the top to plant the flag. A great pitch on perfect orange rock. Seeps in winter.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

20 RMixed 45m, 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
9 Panama Canal Trad 25m
14 Royal Parade Trad 20m
Sunset Strip Trad 20m
15 * Sunset Boulevard Trad 50m
16 Bay Of Pigs Trad 35m
Bay Of Pigs aka Young And Cunning Trad 40m
Pig Sticker Trad 50m
Young And Cunning Trad 50m
17 All The Presidents Men Trad 50m
Santa Monica Boulevard Trad 55m
The Misty Ridge Trad 60m
18 Mods?, What Mods? Trad 60m
* Venice Trad 50m
Wire Guided Trad 50m
20 ** The Territorial Imperative Mixed 45m, 1
22 Rebel Without A Corset Trad 20m
23 * Power Play Trad 25m
30 Orca Trad 8m