A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
This prominent white-grey slab has a few amusing routes which are all pretty cruisy. Once you get past the steep lower section the angle relaxes to enjoyable juggy rambles.
- Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):
People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.
To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff , Gunn Buttress , Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area , Andersens , Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, Turtle Rocks, Sandinista Cliffs, Pensioners Wall Area, Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys , Hollow Mountain Cave, Legoland, Cut Lunch Walls , Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall , The Dungeon, Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder
Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder
*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders ,The Plaza Strip, The Snake Pit , Trackside Boulders. Citadel . Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall ,Epsilon Wall ,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land , Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 4 Cornered Crag, Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls
Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag , Sunstroke Area , Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, Second Tier, Third Tier , North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers , Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers
Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie , The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block, The Olive Cave, The Ravine
CLOSED CLIMBING AREAS
North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall , Mawson Slab, Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave , Sentinel Wall , The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant ,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area
Walk left from the Tupamaros area following rock cairns through and around some boulders for about 50m. The wall ends at the giant wide left facing flake of The Territorial Imperative. Descent is east across the top of the Tupamaros area and down via assorted exposed ledges and gullies to join up with the tourist track at Red Wall. Expect to get lost. Crag blazes in the sun for most of the day. Routes listed right to left. There is some excellent highball bouldering at the base of The Territorial Imperative.
Mods?, What Mods?
Average at best. A route that rises diagonally rightward, ending up on the big ledge as for 'Gunboat Diplomacy'.
Start: Starts from the boulder under a chossy roof on the east facing cliff 10m or so around the corner from 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. The details of this route are still as fresh as daisies in the memories of the first ascensionists.
FA: Jerry Maddox & Glenn Tempest, 1980
All The Presidents Men
Uninspiring chossy ramble which seems to share the start 10m with Mods? What Mods?
Start: Start from the boulder.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983
Rebel Without A Corset
Up slab to weakness in roof. Over this (hard) to hand traverse right on jugs to ledge. Wander up wall above to finish.
Start: Starts 8m left of 'All The Presidents Men'.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1985
Major right leaning 40 degree overhung corner. Pumpy, awkward and sustained. A climb for intelligent chimpanzees.
Start: Initialled. Starts 6m left of 'All The Presidents Men' at base of slab and major corner.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983
The Misty Ridge
FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005
One of the first routes climbed in the area and a major line.
Start: Start at the small leftward facing corner heading up to the obvious major L facing corner. About 40m left of 'Power Play' towards the right hand end of the White Wall. The short wide crack section is quite pushy. Can be split into 2 pitches.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Joan Schrameck, 1973
Keith returned 20 years after 'Pig Sticker' to score another good line. Lovely climbing on lovely rock.
Start: Start at the pinkish slab just right of the initial corner of 'Pig Sticker'.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993
Up to overhang, swing energetically out left and straight up smooth grey wall above. Walk off upwards.
Start: From the start of 'Sunset Boulevard', walk right, along the sloping ledge for 9m to semi hanging belay below first break in overhang.
FA: Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2001
Nice rock but not very sustained.
Start: The next break to the right of 'Sunset Strip'.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside & Kieran Loughran, 2001
Santa Monica Boulevard
A mountaineering romp up a major feature.
FA: James McInstosh & Mike Wust, 1998
Featured slabby climbing with a real granite feel.
Start: Starts 6m left of 'Pig Sticker' from the big ledge 6m up which is accessed by climbing up the tree leaning against the rock. Up the short corner-seam. Continue slightly R for a few metres then straight up slab to top. Protects surprisingly well with wires and small cams.
FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983
Bay Of Pigs aka Young And Cunning
An in-direct version of this route was also climbed in 1984 by a team including Peter Cunningham.
Start: Starts about 10m left of 'Wire Guided'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983
|13||Young And Cunning||16||50m|
|14||Bay Of Pigs||16||35m|
Great central line up wall. The original grade of 14 was definitely suspect - despite Nod having led it in sandshoes because he forgot his climbing shoes. Take slings for pro.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Noel Whiteside, 2001
Nice easy jug climbing. Michael and Kevin must have needed a rest day after doing all the other hard routes in the area!
Start: 'Access' is a bit of a pain and possibly the crux! Start perhaps 10-15m left of Bay Of Pigs by scrambling along the large ledge then follow it left and up to its continuation. Beginners might want to rope up for this traverse.
FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983
Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c.
Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'.
FA: Julian Saunders (solo), 2002
The Territorial Imperative
Attractive line - if you enjoy offwidths and runouts. The only viable route splitting the endless blankness on the far left side of White Wall. The hidden second pitch looks really good.
Start: Locate the major left facing flake crack / chimney about 10m left of 'Panama Canal' back at ground level. The end of the first pitch finishes on the belay ledge for 'Panama Canal'. If you can't find this go back to the gym.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983
|20 R||2, 145m|
|9 R||Panama Canal||25m|
|16||Bay Of Pigs||35m|
|Bay Of Pigs aka Young And Cunning||40m|
|Young And Cunning||50m|
|17||Santa Monica Boulevard||255m|
|The Misty Ridge||60m|
|17 R||All The Presidents Men||250m|
|18||Mods?, What Mods?||60m|
|18 R||Wire Guided||50m|
|20 R||The Territorial Imperative||2, 145m|
|22||Rebel Without A Corset||20m|