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Description

The glamour crag of Hollow Mountain. Sandinista Wall is steep, pocketed and to the most part bolted. It contains some of the region's hardest climbs including the all trad testpiece Journey Through Nicaragua (30) and the amazing bolted Somoza (32). The first ascent list is a who's who of Victorian hard men with Lindorff, Carrigan, HB, Dave Jones and Nathan Hoette all putting their names to impressive climbs. This area is right above the tourist track so please behave accordingly. This will be many people's first contact with climbers so try and refrain from swearing, going to the toilet or leaving quickdraws on the routes overnight.

The cliff is steep enough to withstand rain very well at first, but then seepage becomes quite a problem. It faces into the sun from morning until mid afternoon and is a four season crag, being steep enough to offer plenty of afternoon shade when the sun is high in summer, and being a fantastic sheltered suntrap in winter.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

620m from carpark. 36.53.501s, 142.23.003e. The approach to this crag is one of the easiest in the Grampians. Follow the tourist track from Hollow Mtn carpark. The tracks winds through scrub for 10 minutes, then climbs up a few rock steps to reach the impressive overhung and chalked up Sandinista Wall. The tourist track then goes left along the base for 50m before a switchback to the R to ascend a small gully/cleft to arrive above Sandinista Wall. To descend off these routes walk back down the tourist track.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Awesomely pumpy fun thugging. Start 8m left of 'Fading Fast'. Stick clip recommended. Diagonally R on shattered rock to FH, then steeply past UB to join major cliff-splitting R-wards diagonal. Pump 15m up R along this past 2nd UB, across Fading Fast & Contra, and 5m further to FH. Now straight up to lower-off (60m rope essential). Full set of cams incl. #4 camalot, plus medium wires. The original piker's version (Will Monks, Neil Monteith, 21/8/05) finished as for FF, & you can also pike by lowering off SaL's anchor.

FA: Will Monks & Steve Chapman, 2008

FA: Will Monks & Neil Monteith, 2005

A steep climb up the short but deceptively overhanging wall just left of where the track hits the cliff and turns right. Carrigan led this route onsight the day after his one-point ascent of the Seventh Pillar.

Start: Marked by small white square.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran (as far as the RP!), 1982

Awkward undercut start then pockets and finally an all out throw for the ledge to join 'Fading Fast'. The subsequent addition of a DRB lower-off was rather unfortunate, as it is a retrobolt of 'Fading Fast' and the anchor of Contra can easily be reached a few metres higher and to the right.

Start: Incipient pocketed seam just left of Contra with several bolts.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2005

A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half.

Start: Start 15m left of 'Sandinista' at the well chalked flake crack.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989

Starts up pockets then into faint corner. Looks next level.

Chris has declared this open!

Start: It's the line of about 6 (??) rusty FH's between Contra and David Or-Tiger.

FA: Equipped by Chris Jones in, 2001

Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Sandinista' at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting.

FA: Martin Scheel (Redpointed after six days of effort), 1989

Hardest route in the Grampians?

Start: Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Somoza via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries!

FA: Dave Jones, 1999

The stunning overhanging diagonal. The easiest way up this wall! The protection is brilliant and the pump is always present. One of the best lines in the Grampians.

Start: Starts about 20m right of where the track hits the cliff.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeff Lamb, 1982

Steep crack climbing. It's the finger crack straight up the headwall, starting about 18m up Sandinista.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles.

Start: The superb hanging corner about 15m right of 'Sandinista'. It finishes at the same point as 'Sandinista'. Gain access to the corner by stepping in from the ledge to the right.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1987

Steep wall hidden away from the prying eyes of the public.

Start: Starts on hidden ledge up right of Journey. You access this from above, by scrambling down juggy grey wall 20m R from the top of Journey.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2007

Not a classic.

Start: Starts at the middle of the large block 6m to the right of 'Journey Through Nicaragua'. Marked by small white square.

FA: Mike Wust & C. Stewart, 1983

Shitty. Around 10m right from Chad are three blocky corners. Up the middle line, moving left to pull up the overhanging wall. Up via the ledges above.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Activity

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