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Table of contents

1. Sandinista Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.383398, -36.891865

Description:© (nmonteith)

The glamour crag of Hollow Mountain. Sandinista Wall is steep, pocketed and to the most part bolted. It contains some of the region's hardest climbs including the all trad testpiece Journey Through Nicaragua (30) and the amazing bolted Somoza (32). The first ascent list is a who's who of Victorian hard men with Lindorff, Carrigan, HB, Dave Jones and Nathan Hoette all putting their names to impressive climbs. This area is right above the tourist track so please behave accordingly. This will be many people's first contact with climbers so try and refrain from swearing, going to the toilet or leaving quickdraws on the routes overnight.

The cliff is steep enough to withstand rain very well at first, but then seepage becomes quite a problem. It faces into the sun from morning until mid afternoon and is a four season crag, being steep enough to offer plenty of afternoon shade when the sun is high in summer, and being a fantastic sheltered suntrap in winter.

Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach:© (nmonteith)

620m from carpark. 36.53.501s, 142.23.003e. The approach to this crag is one of the easiest in the Grampians. Follow the tourist track from Hollow Mtn carpark. The tracks winds through scrub for 10 minutes, then climbs up a few rock steps to reach the impressive overhung and chalked up Sandinista Wall. The tourist track then goes left along the base for 50m before a switchback to the R to ascend a small gully/cleft to arrive above Sandinista Wall. To descend off these routes walk back down the tourist track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Reversing Peregrines

Awesomely pumpy fun thugging. Start 8m left of 'Fading Fast'. Stick clip recommended. Diagonally R on shattered rock to FH, then steeply past UB to join major cliff-splitting R-wards diagonal. Pump 15m up R along this past 2nd UB, across Fading Fast & Contra, and 5m further to FH. Now straight up to lower-off (60m rope essential). Full set of cams incl. #4 camalot, plus medium wires. The original piker's version (Will Monks, Neil Monteith, 21/8/05) finished as for FF, & you can also pike by lowering off SaL's anchor.

FA: Will Monks, Steve Chapman, 2008

24Mixed 35m, 4
2 Reversing Peregrines Fading Fast Linkup

FA: Will Monks, Neil Monteith, 2005

23Trad 25m
3 Fading Fast

A steep climb up the short but deceptively overhanging wall just left of where the track hits the cliff and turns right. Carrigan led this route onsight the day after his one-point ascent of the Seventh Pillar.

Start: Marked by small white square.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran (as far as the RP!), 1982

24 RTrad 20m
4 * Snakes And Ladders

Awkward undercut start then pockets and finally an all out throw for the ledge to join 'Fading Fast'. The subsequent addition of a DRB lower-off was rather unfortunate, as it is a retrobolt of 'Fading Fast' and the anchor of Contra can easily be reached a few metres higher and to the right.

Start: Incipient pocketed seam just left of Contra with several bolts.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2005

29Sport 15m, 4
5 ** Contra Arms Pump

A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half.

Start: Start 15m left of 'Sandinista' at the well chalked flake crack.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989

30Mixed 20m, 2
6 Chris Jones' Project (open)

Chris has declared this open!

Start: It's the line of about 6 (??) rusty FH's between Contra and David Or-Tiger.

FA: Equipped by Chris Jones in, 2001

Sport 15m, 6
7 *** Daniel Or-tiger

Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Sandinista' at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting.

FA: Martin Scheel (Redpointed after six days of effort), 1989

30Sport 25m, 6
8 *** Sparticus

Hardest route in the Grampians?

Start: Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Somoza via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

33Trad 25m
9 ** Somoza

One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries!

FA: Dave Jones, 1999

32Sport 20m, 10
10 *** Sandinista

The stunning overhanging diagonal. The easiest way up this wall! The protection is brilliant and the pump is always present. One of the best lines in the Grampians.

Start: Starts about 20m right of where the track hits the cliff.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeff Lamb, 1982

23Trad 40m
11 ** Sandinista Direct

Steep crack climbing. It's the finger crack straight up the headwall, starting about 18m up Sandinista.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

26Trad 30m
12 *** Journey Through Nicaragua

One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles.

Start: The superb hanging corner about 15m right of 'Sandinista'. It finishes at the same point as 'Sandinista'. Gain access to the corner by stepping in from the ledge to the right.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1987

30 RTrad 20m
13 * Checkmate

Steep wall hidden away from the prying eyes of the public.

Start: Starts on hidden ledge up right of Journey. You access this from above, by scrambling down juggy grey wall 20m R from the top of Journey.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2007

29Sport 15m, 7
14 Chad

Not a classic.

Start: Starts at the middle of the large block 6m to the right of 'Journey Through Nicaragua'. Marked by small white square.

FA: Mike Wust & C. Stewart, 1983

13Trad 20m
15 Etendard

Shitty. Around 10m right from Chad are three blocky corners. Up the middle line, moving left to pull up the overhanging wall. Up via the ledges above.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

18Trad 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
13 Chad Trad 20m
18 Etendard Trad 25m
23 Reversing Peregrines Fading Fast Linkup Trad 25m
*** Sandinista Trad 40m
24 Fading Fast Trad 20m
* Reversing Peregrines Mixed 35m, 4
26 ** Sandinista Direct Trad 30m
29 * Checkmate Sport 15m, 7
* Snakes And Ladders Sport 15m, 4
30 ** Contra Arms Pump Mixed 20m, 2
*** Daniel Or-tiger Sport 25m, 6
*** Journey Through Nicaragua Trad 20m
32 ** Somoza Sport 20m, 10
33 *** Sparticus Trad 25m
? Chris Jones' Project (open) Sport 15m, 6