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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad and Sport
Long/Lat: 142.383398, -36.891865
- Description:© (nmonteith)
The glamour crag of Hollow Mountain. Sandinista Wall is steep, pocketed and to the most part bolted. It contains some of the region's hardest climbs including the all trad testpiece Journey Through Nicaragua (30) and the amazing bolted Somoza (32). The first ascent list is a who's who of Victorian hard men with Lindorff, Carrigan, HB, Dave Jones and Nathan Hoette all putting their names to impressive climbs. This area is right above the tourist track so please behave accordingly. This will be many people's first contact with climbers so try and refrain from swearing, going to the toilet or leaving quickdraws on the routes overnight.
The cliff is steep enough to withstand rain very well at first, but then seepage becomes quite a problem. It faces into the sun from morning until mid afternoon and is a four season crag, being steep enough to offer plenty of afternoon shade when the sun is high in summer, and being a fantastic sheltered suntrap in winter.
- Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):
People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.
To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff , Gunn Buttress , Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area , Andersens , Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, Turtle Rocks, Sandinista Cliffs, Pensioners Wall Area, Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys , Hollow Mountain Cave, Legoland, Cut Lunch Walls , Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall , The Dungeon, Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder
Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder
*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders ,The Plaza Strip, The Snake Pit , Trackside Boulders. Citadel . Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall ,Epsilon Wall ,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land , Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 4 Cornered Crag, Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls
Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag , Sunstroke Area , Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, Second Tier, Third Tier , North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers , Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers
Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie , The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block, The Olive Cave, The Ravine
CLOSED CLIMBING AREAS
North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall , Mawson Slab, Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave , Sentinel Wall , The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant ,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area
- Approach:© (nmonteith)
620m from carpark. 36.53.501s, 142.23.003e. The approach to this crag is one of the easiest in the Grampians. Follow the tourist track from Hollow Mtn carpark. The tracks winds through scrub for 10 minutes, then climbs up a few rock steps to reach the impressive overhung and chalked up Sandinista Wall. The tourist track then goes left along the base for 50m before a switchback to the R to ascend a small gully/cleft to arrive above Sandinista Wall. To descend off these routes walk back down the tourist track.
Awesomely pumpy fun thugging. Start 8m left of 'Fading Fast'. Stick clip recommended. Diagonally R on shattered rock to FH, then steeply past UB to join major cliff-splitting R-wards diagonal. Pump 15m up R along this past 2nd UB, across Fading Fast & Contra, and 5m further to FH. Now straight up to lower-off (60m rope essential). Full set of cams incl. #4 camalot, plus medium wires. The original piker's version (Will Monks, Neil Monteith, 21/8/05) finished as for FF, & you can also pike by lowering off SaL's anchor.
FA: Will Monks, Steve Chapman, 2008
Reversing Peregrines Fading Fast Linkup
FA: Will Monks, Neil Monteith, 2005
A steep climb up the short but deceptively overhanging wall just left of where the track hits the cliff and turns right. Carrigan led this route onsight the day after his one-point ascent of the Seventh Pillar.
Start: Marked by small white square.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran (as far as the RP!), 1982
Snakes And Ladders
Awkward undercut start then pockets and finally an all out throw for the ledge to join 'Fading Fast'. The subsequent addition of a DRB lower-off was rather unfortunate, as it is a retrobolt of 'Fading Fast' and the anchor of Contra can easily be reached a few metres higher and to the right.
Start: Incipient pocketed seam just left of Contra with several bolts.
FA: Garry Phillips, 2005
Contra Arms Pump
A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half.
Start: Start 15m left of 'Sandinista' at the well chalked flake crack.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989
Chris Jones' Project (open)
Chris has declared this open!
Start: It's the line of about 6 (??) rusty FH's between Contra and David Or-Tiger.
FA: Equipped by Chris Jones in, 2001
Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread.
Start: Starts 3m left of 'Sandinista' at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting.
FA: Martin Scheel (Redpointed after six days of effort), 1989
Hardest route in the Grampians?
Start: Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Somoza via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002
One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries!
FA: Dave Jones, 1999
The stunning overhanging diagonal. The easiest way up this wall! The protection is brilliant and the pump is always present. One of the best lines in the Grampians.
Start: Starts about 20m right of where the track hits the cliff.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeff Lamb, 1982
Steep crack climbing. It's the finger crack straight up the headwall, starting about 18m up Sandinista.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992
Journey Through Nicaragua
One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1987
Steep wall hidden away from the prying eyes of the public.
Start: Starts on hidden ledge up right of Journey. You access this from above, by scrambling down juggy grey wall 20m R from the top of Journey.
FA: Garry Phillips, 2007
Not a classic.
Start: Starts at the middle of the large block 6m to the right of 'Journey Through Nicaragua'. Marked by small white square.
FA: Mike Wust & C. Stewart, 1983
Shitty. Around 10m right from Chad are three blocky corners. Up the middle line, moving left to pull up the overhanging wall. Up via the ledges above.
FA: Peter Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983
|23||Reversing Peregrines Fading Fast Linkup||25m|
|24 R||Fading Fast||20m|
|Snakes And Ladders||415m,|
|30||Contra Arms Pump||220m,|
|30 R||Journey Through Nicaragua||20m|
|?||Chris Jones' Project (open)||615m,|