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JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad and Sport
Long/Lat: 142.383398, -36.891865
- Description:© (nmonteith)
The glamour crag of Hollow Mountain. Sandinista Wall is steep, pocketed and to the most part bolted. It contains some of the region's hardest climbs including the all trad testpiece Journey Through Nicaragua (30) and the amazing bolted Somoza (32). The first ascent list is a who's who of Victorian hard men with Lindorff, Carrigan, HB, Dave Jones and Nathan Hoette all putting their names to impressive climbs. This area is right above the tourist track so please behave accordingly. This will be many people's first contact with climbers so try and refrain from swearing, going to the toilet or leaving quickdraws on the routes overnight.
The cliff is steep enough to withstand rain very well at first, but then seepage becomes quite a problem. It faces into the sun from morning until mid afternoon and is a four season crag, being steep enough to offer plenty of afternoon shade when the sun is high in summer, and being a fantastic sheltered suntrap in winter.
- Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria:
Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)
In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.
The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.
Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.
As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.
Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:
- Central Buttress
- Grey & Green Walls
- Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
- Spurt Wall
- Epsilon Wall
- Trackside Bouldering area
- Spurt and Afterglow
Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.
Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.
Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.
For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:
Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Flat Rock
- Wonderland Range
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt William Range
- Victoria Point area
- Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt Arapiles
- Mt Talbot
- The Black Range
Please remember your climbing etiquette:
- Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
- Stick to tracks
- Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
- Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
- Be mindful of cleaning
- No chipping or bolting
- Avoid excessive chalk
- Take your rubbish home with you
- Approach:© (nmonteith)
620m from carpark. 36.53.501s, 142.23.003e. The approach to this crag is one of the easiest in the Grampians. Follow the tourist track from Hollow Mtn carpark. The tracks winds through scrub for 10 minutes, then climbs up a few rock steps to reach the impressive overhung and chalked up Sandinista Wall. The tourist track then goes left along the base for 50m before a switchback to the R to ascend a small gully/cleft to arrive above Sandinista Wall. To descend off these routes walk back down the tourist track.
Awesomely pumpy fun thugging. Start 8m left of 'Fading Fast'. Stick clip recommended. Diagonally R on shattered rock to FH, then steeply past UB to join major cliff-splitting R-wards diagonal. Pump 15m up R along this past 2nd UB, across Fading Fast & Contra, and 5m further to FH. Now straight up to lower-off (60m rope essential). Full set of cams incl. #4 camalot, plus medium wires. The original piker's version (Will Monks, Neil Monteith, 21/8/05) finished as for FF, & you can also pike by lowering off SaL's anchor.
FA: Will Monks, Steve Chapman, 2008
Reversing Peregrines Fading Fast Linkup
FA: Will Monks, Neil Monteith, 2005
A steep climb up the short but deceptively overhanging wall just left of where the track hits the cliff and turns right. Carrigan led this route onsight the day after his one-point ascent of the Seventh Pillar.
Start: Marked by small white square.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran (as far as the RP!), 1982
Snakes And Ladders
Awkward undercut start then pockets and finally an all out throw for the ledge to join 'Fading Fast'. The subsequent addition of a DRB lower-off was rather unfortunate, as it is a retrobolt of 'Fading Fast' and the anchor of Contra can easily be reached a few metres higher and to the right.
Start: Incipient pocketed seam just left of Contra with several bolts.
FA: Garry Phillips, 2005
Contra Arms Pump
A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half.
Start: Start 15m left of 'Sandinista' at the well chalked flake crack.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989
Chris Jones' Project (open)
Chris has declared this open!
Start: It's the line of about 6 (??) rusty FH's between Contra and David Or-Tiger.
FA: Equipped by Chris Jones in, 2001
Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread.
Start: Starts 3m left of 'Sandinista' at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting.
FA: Martin Scheel (Redpointed after six days of effort), 1989
Hardest route in the Grampians?
Start: Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Somoza via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002
One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries!
FA: Dave Jones, 1999
The stunning overhanging diagonal. The easiest way up this wall! The protection is brilliant and the pump is always present. One of the best lines in the Grampians.
Start: Starts about 20m right of where the track hits the cliff.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeff Lamb, 1982
Steep crack climbing. It's the finger crack straight up the headwall, starting about 18m up Sandinista.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992
Journey Through Nicaragua
One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1987
Steep wall hidden away from the prying eyes of the public.
Start: Starts on hidden ledge up right of Journey. You access this from above, by scrambling down juggy grey wall 20m R from the top of Journey.
FA: Garry Phillips, 2007
Not a classic.
Start: Starts at the middle of the large block 6m to the right of 'Journey Through Nicaragua'. Marked by small white square.
FA: Mike Wust & C. Stewart, 1983
Shitty. Around 10m right from Chad are three blocky corners. Up the middle line, moving left to pull up the overhanging wall. Up via the ledges above.
FA: Peter Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983
|23||Reversing Peregrines Fading Fast Linkup||25m|
|24 R||Fading Fast||20m|
|Snakes And Ladders||415m,|
|30||Contra Arms Pump||220m,|
|30 R||Journey Through Nicaragua||20m|
|?||Chris Jones' Project (open)||615m,|