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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

A few ok routes hidden away in the jungle surrounding the Andersons bouldering area. Most people don't even realize that there is roped climbing tucked below the main cliffs.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

The following routes are 40m down from the right hand end of Gun Buttress at two large boulders which create a small well sheltered alcove. If you follow the lower of the climbers' tracks you pass very near these large boulders. They are protected from the sun most of the day.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 Bolt Action Sport 15m, 3

Short and sharp. The overhanging orange wall with three FHs.

FA: Steve Chapman & Brian Gray, 2000

2
26 Bolt Action Directe Sport 10m, 3

The original line (24) traversed left and then back right, avoiding the dyno. The direct version powers straight up past 3 FHs.

FA: Brain Grey & Steve Chapman, 2002

3
20 Calvinist Klein Trad 12m

A bit contrived. Grade may vary according to exact line taken.

Start: Start 1m right of 'Bolt Action Directe' at thin right-leading crack.

FA: Steve Chapman & Ross Timms, 2002

4
22 Pump Action Trad 15m

A pumpy rising traverse that barely gets more than five metres from the ground. Some would call this a highball boulder problem.

Start: Located on wall opposite 'Bolt Action'. Start at left end of wall in alcove at well chalked slopers.

FA: Brian Gray & Steve Chapman, 2000

5
22 Double Action Trad 10m

Can be finished either by stepping left to easier ground (20) or gently right to high jug (22).

Start: Start as for 'Pump Action' but continue straight up wall.

FA: Steve Chapman, Brian Gray & Rob Booth, 2000

6
13 R Battlescarred Trad 17m

Not the beginner route that Kevin tried to pretend it was.

Start: Starts on the front side of the 'Pump Action' boulder, facing the 'Hollow Mountain' carpark.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983