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Description

Some easier juggy sport climbs on weird blobby grey rock. Hidden away on a ledge system above the access track to VD Land. Gets earlier shade than some of the other crags here. Not a great place for kids and large groups due to the scrambly access and deep ravine.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

The approach is a little tricky. Scramble up right leading ramp to base of Koalasquasty Wall. Walk 50m left from Koalasquasty to short bit of rope hanging over rock step. Hand over hand up this then left across ledge to enter slot and routes. Parts of this may be marked with cairns. Routes start down in the base of this slot. Take care not to fall down or drop things into the crevasse below the belay chockstones!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Bouldery start leads up edge of black groove to a rest. Cool finish up rib feature.

Up the wall through orange scoops to ledge. A long sling may help for bolt in cave otherwise rope drag may be an issue.

Third route from the right on the wall on grey juggy rock - which actually isn't that juggy! Fixed hangers.

Start 2-3 metres left of McHammer at small orange scoop and orange streak below the horizontal crack. Climb directly up a series of the larger short and manic crack lines. A steep exciting end. A large lose block sitting comfortably at the top of this climb is tempting to use as a hold. The McHammer chains can be used after a short right traverse.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Jayden Andrea, 2016

One of the best easier sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Knob ridden terrain with a slight left trending line. Fixed hangers and lower-off.

Starts on the chockstone down in the slot. Very pleasant right trending wall climbing with a punchy pumpy finish.

Quite a bouldery little number. Translation - it's a sandbag! Start at first bolt of LIT then climb straight up with a series of really tough sideclings and no feet. Nick Sutter fell off this.

Takes the black water streak with a super cool and unlikey jump move from make believe holds.

The original route on the wall and probably the best. Featured steep wall climbing. Slight left trending route with a bouldery middle section on slopey holds. A mix of ubolts and fixed hangers.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

Bouldery crux. First bolt of 'Back Stabbath' then slight left leading line which punches through a small orange shield of great rock. Bottom is a bit sandy.

A big low traverse left from the chockstone belay then up the grey juggy wall. Tricky mantle to finish.

A bit of faffing about to get climbing. Located on the far left end of the crag. To start the climb you need to rig a belay from ring bolts. Head down left side of void (facing VD Land) climb down trick void, bridge accross, clip bolt, unclip first bolt once the second is clipped, pull onto face and up left and up the orange wall.

Activity

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