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Description

Some easier juggy sport climbs on weird blobby grey rock. Hidden away on a ledge system above the access track to VD Land. Gets earlier shade than some of the other crags here. Not a great place for kids and large groups due to the scrambly access and deep ravine.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

The approach is a little tricky. Scramble up right leading ramp to base of Koalasquasty Wall. Walk 50m left from Koalasquasty to short bit of rope hanging over rock step. Hand over hand up this then left across ledge to enter slot and routes. Parts of this may be marked with cairns. Routes start down in the base of this slot. Take care not to fall down or drop things into the crevasse below the belay chockstones!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 Powderfingers Sport

Rightmost route on the wall up orange scoops.

2
18 MC Hammer Drill Sport 16m, 5

Second route from the right on the wall on grey juggy rock - which actually isn't that juggy! Fixed hangers.

3
17 The Suburbs Sport 15m, 5

One of the best easier sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Knob ridden terrain with a slight left trending line. Fixed hangers and lower-off.

4
19 * Lost in Translation Sport 17m, 7

Starts on the chockstone down in the slot - belay off the ubolt. Very pleasant right trending wall climbing with a punchy pumpy finish.

5
23 * Olympic Airways Sport 15m, 7

Quite a bouldery little number. Translation - it's a sandbag! Start at first bolt of LIT then climb straight up with a series of really tough sideclings and no feet. Nick Sutter fell off this.

6
21 ** Back Stabbath Sport 17m, 6

The original route on the wall and probably the best. Featured steep wall climbing. Slight left trending route with a bouldery middle section on slopey holds. A mix of ubolts and fixed hangers.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

7
22 * Pant Tearer Sport 16m

Bouldery crux. First bolt of 'Back Stabbath' then slight left leading line which punches through a small orange shield of great rock. Bottom is a bit sandy.

8
20 Cool Crux Clan Sport 18m

A big low traverse left from the chockstone belay then up the grey juggy wall. Tricky mantle to finish.

9
18 Pink Void Sport 15m, 6

Very problematic access! Located on the far left end of the crag. To start the climb you need to rig an abseil rope from rock bollards or trad on the slabby side, abseil down into the trench and do a hanging belay in the chimney. Head down left side of void (facing VD Land) climb down trick void, bridge accross, clip bolt, unclip first bolt, pull onto face and up left and up the orange wall. Confused? Apparently it's missing an anchor as well.