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Description

Some easier juggy sport climbs on weird blobby grey rock. Hidden away on a ledge system above the access track to VD Land. Gets earlier shade than some of the other crags here. Not a great place for kids and large groups due to the scrambly access and deep ravine.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

The approach is a little tricky. Scramble up right leading ramp to base of Koalasquasty Wall. Walk 50m left from Koalasquasty to short bit of rope hanging over rock step. Hand over hand up this then left across ledge to enter slot and routes. Parts of this may be marked with cairns. Routes start down in the base of this slot. Take care not to fall down or drop things into the crevasse below the belay chockstones!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 Powderfingers Sport

Rightmost route on the wall up orange scoops.

2
18 MC Hammer Drill Sport 16m, 5

Second route from the right on the wall on grey juggy rock - which actually isn't that juggy! Fixed hangers.

3
17 The Suburbs Sport 15m, 5

One of the best easier sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Knob ridden terrain with a slight left trending line. Fixed hangers and lower-off.

4
19 * Lost in Translation Sport 17m, 7

Starts on the chockstone down in the slot - belay off the ubolt. Very pleasant right trending wall climbing with a punchy pumpy finish.

5
23 * Olympic Airways Sport 15m, 7

Quite a bouldery little number. Translation - it's a sandbag! Start at first bolt of LIT then climb straight up with a series of really tough sideclings and no feet. Nick Sutter fell off this.

6
21 ** Back Stabbath Sport 17m, 6

The original route on the wall and probably the best. Featured steep wall climbing. Slight left trending route with a bouldery middle section on slopey holds. A mix of ubolts and fixed hangers.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

7
22 * Pant Tearer Sport 16m

Bouldery crux. First bolt of 'Back Stabbath' then slight left leading line which punches through a small orange shield of great rock. Bottom is a bit sandy.

8
20 Cool Crux Clan Sport 18m

A big low traverse left from the chockstone belay then up the grey juggy wall. Tricky mantle to finish.

9
18 Pink Void Sport 15m, 6

Very problematic access! Located on the far left end of the crag. To start the climb you need to rig an abseil rope from rock bollards or trad on the slabby side, abseil down into the trench and do a hanging belay in the chimney. Head down left side of void (facing VD Land) climb down trick void, bridge accross, clip bolt, unclip first bolt, pull onto face and up left and up the orange wall. Confused? Apparently it's missing an anchor as well.