Description:© (nmonteith)

Some powerful pocket pulling down low and a delightful flake up high. It's written up as three pitches but you just link them all together into one long pitch of climbing. One star if you only climb the first pitch. Pitches 1 and 2 need rebolting. A 60m rope should be enough to lower off but a 50m won't be.

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

  1. 15m (24) Jam up 'Body Count' corner past UB, then step right onto sloping ledge. Up technical pockets then diagonally right on excellent incuts to rap chain. Five FH's in all. Used to be soft at 25, let's see if it's better as a solid 24.

  2. 9m (24) A touch easier than pitch 1...but not easy! Clip first FH, then step left and up the left facing flake line on the best rock around, past 2 more FHs to ledge and rap chain. It is exactly 25m back to the ground from this rap chain.

  3. 8m (25) From the 2nd anchor bouldery exposed moves head up right past two bolts to finish at top anchor on 'Happiness in Magazines' (30m to ground).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Matthew Brooks & John Miller (pitch 3 added by American Elliott), Mar 2009

Location:  

Located in Van Dieman's Land approx:
Long/Lat: 142.388859,-36.896589

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24(S) * Grampians Selected Climbs
25 Principal
25 ** The North Grampians Update
25 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard great awesome fall weird slippery pockets crack

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