Description:© (nmonteith)

Brilliant pumper.

Start: Start as for TBJM.

  1. 20m (25) First 6 bolts of 'The Brian Jonestown Massacre' then traverse left on pockets past two bolts until joining 'My Bloody Valentine'. 9 bolts.

  2. 15m (22) Really good in its own right - although some early repeats missed the 2 bolt face sequence off the ledge (look right!) and tradded up the fragile fat flake on the L instead, which is reportedly not much fun. Four U-bolts lead up a delightfully exposed flake on fantastic buckets. Mantle ledge then swing wildly out left (FH) for an orange jug. A couple more steep moves lead to lower-off. This pitch can also be approached via 'Crime Wave' (excellent warm up if you brought trad for CW) or via 'My Bloody Valentine'. Whichever first pitch you do, a 60m rope lets you belay from the ground and lower off the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: kp

Location:  

Located in Van Dieman's Land approx:
Long/Lat: 142.388859,-36.896589

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Principal
25 * .
25 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

brilliant committing steep

Learn about creating circuits.