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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
10 Cornered By Fans Trad 15m

The clean corner at the L end of the slab.

Start: About 250—300m L of the main 'bowl' is a smooth recessed slab, bounded by corners at both ends. There you will find this route.

FA: David Brereton, James McIntosh, 1991

2
9 Scalper's Egress Trad 12m

Up the crack and L-facing corner above. David Brereton, James McIntosh Nov 91.

Start: The central line on the wall, above the highest point of the huge detached block.

3
10 Cannes Trad 30m

The L of the two obvious cracks just around L of 'Bowled Out'. Climb the crack for about 10m. Traverse easily L to finish up the arête. Abseil off.

FA: Tony Wilson, James McIntosh, 1991

4
8 Nice Trad 30m

The R crack and corner behind.

FA: Tony Wilson, James McIntosh, 1991

5
18 The Enchantress Trad 70m

Rather contrived. An enjoyable enough route, but not in the same league as 'Romancing Times'. 1) 35m (crux) As for 'Romancing Times' but head up just L of the brown rock past an obvious under-cling at 25m. 2) 35m Up R, taking both overhangs pretty much direct.

FA: Melanie and James McIntosh (alt), 1992

6
18 R *** Romancing Times Trad 60m

Despite the crux being very run-out, James is reported to have declared this 'the best new route we have ever done'.

Start: Start as for 'Bowled Out'.

FA: Melanie McIntosh, James McIntosh, 1991

7
13 Bowled Out Trad 65m

Start directly below the 'bowl'. 1) 45m Climb up into the foot of the 'bowl' then avoid major difficulty and lack of protection by skirting up and left around the 'bowl'. 2) 20m Up easily.

FA: Ian Ravenscroft, Chris Baxter (alt), Dave Gairns March, 1989

8
16 ** Arrows of Desire Trad 52m

A pleasant mixture of slab climbing and exposed but juggy face-climbing. Start below central rib, on face R of 'bowl'. 1) 12m Climb the slab and veer R to belay at the L end of a ledge, at a tree. 2) 40m Go up L on to the slabby rib and climb it to the little roof. Go L and pull through the weakness. Up to the next roof, over it, and up cracks to the top.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1987

9
  1. 15m Up main L-leading dyke to belay as for 'Arrows of Desire'. 2) 40m Straight up to the R end of first little roof on 'Arrows of Desire'. Move R to easier ground, then head diagonally up L to finish on prow.

FA: James McIntosh, Tony Wilson, 1991

10
15 ** Chariot Of Fire Trad 52m

Similar climbing to 'Arrows of Desire' but steeper and on even better holds. Start just R of the Ballad of Idwal 'Slabs', 4m L of the little corner. 1) 16m Climb the slab to a ledge. 2) 36m Climb the wall directly above to finish up twin cracks.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1987

11
14 ** Ancient Times Trad 60m

Quite exposed on the traverse. 1) 35m Climb the scooped line R of Chariots of Fire into the corner above. Go up the corner to the R end of the slabby ledge and up the corner above. When just below the roof step R to a ledge. 2) 25m Pull over the overhang above the belay and traverse back L (watch rope-drag) on the lip into the L-leaning arch, which is followed in a dramatic position until the line heads up the steep wall above on surprising holds. 2a) 30m, grade 15**. traverse 4m left from belay, head up through the juggy break in small roof(!) in to the original line. Well protected.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

12
10 * Bubbles Of Fantasy Trad 60m

Start 15m R of 'Ancient Times'. 1) 30m Follow the delightful arête. 2) 30m Climb the flake to the roof, L (brittle) into gully and up.

FA: Melanie & James McIntosh, 1990

13

Airy traverse. May be a little easier if you are shorter than 5'9" / 170cm

  1. 25m (16) As for Citizen Cane to ledge belay. Take lots of wires.

  2. 25m (22) Up the fantastic steep juggy corner of 'Wings of Desire' , through right side of roof. Traverse the lip of the roof left (good medium cams, but way pumpy to place) for around 5-6m to open book corner. Wide steep bridging on good holds. Left under small roof to big ledge belay. Roped scramble off left (approx 15m), then over to either the abseil station above Citizin Cane or the 'Main Wall' abseil station.

FA: Josef Goding, Anthony Pattison, 2007

14
23 R ** Wings of Desire Trad 55m

A high-quality route. Start 15m R of Bubbles of Fantasy. 1) 25m (18) Up large L-facing corner then main wall, passing a small R-facing corner. At its top, step L, then diagonally R to orange sickle. Up jugs and R-facing corner to belay on ledge. 2) 25m (crux) L-facing corner to roof, boldly through this (#3.5 cam at lip), then up and diagonally L to rest on arete (fixed wire). Up, step L and up wall, finishing through bulge on L.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day (alt), 1991

15
22 ** Citizen Kane Trad 50m

Sustained and absorbing face climbing. 'Excellent' protection available. Start a few metres L of Wing of 'Desire'. 1) 25m (16) Straight up face, moving slightly R at diagonal, then up to belay at R end of ledge. 2) 25m (crux) Traverse 2m R, then directly up the crack-line to the R end of striped mini-roof. Through this to overlap, and directly up veering slightly L to finish at the chain.

FA: Tim Day, Ylva Wakefield, 1996

16
17 Metropolis Trad 55m

Start: Start as for "Chariot Of Fire".

  1. 15m (-) As for "Chariot Of Fire".

  2. 40m (17) Climb the wall tending left to the ledge. Move up to the base of the right diagonal ramp. Mantle this, then directly up the steep headwall.

FA: yiva Wakefield, Tim Day (alt), 1996

17
24 ** Kickback Trad 35m

Sporty incuts up a sustained face, then exciting trad climbing up a steep weakness. Starts about 8m right of 'Wings of Desire' and 3m left of 'Trust'. Traverse left across pocketed wall (two FHs) then up the face above past horizontal break (cams) and onto face proper. Edge for pleasure on sideways sloping rails (three FHs) to crux move right into seam crack. Up this crack with a dogleg left past a huge fang for 20m to top trad belay. Full trad rack to #2 SLCD required.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006

18
21 Trust Trad 25m

Start as for Faraway so Close. Up then diagonally L past broken niche. Up R of 'gargoyle', finishing R of mossy streak. Join Faraway so Close 4m below top.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

19
22 ** Faraway So Close Trad 24m

Appearances can deceive. 'Excellent' climbing.

FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens, 1996

20
21 The Pillow Book Trad 24m

The open-book crescent. Directly up off the block (RPs and other wires) to base of crescent. Move L past BR then back R above roof.

FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens, 1996

21

Step up R off block (RPs), then up (BR, FH), to join 'The Pillow Book' at base of crescent. Step R and up R side of arête (BR) to top.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

22

40m 15, the 'S' shaped crack system. Up the line 10m to overhang [watch for brittle rock], through it to the original line.

Start: Start as for "Ancient Times"

FA: Tim Wallace, Hannah Loki and Phil Cutlet, 2005

23

Good climbing with a poorly protected crux. Start from ledge at The Ballad of Idwal 'Slabs' anchor. 1) 40m Straight up to, and through small break in roof-let R of 'Arrows of Desire'. Traverse 2m L on flakes (poor RPs) to shallow groove. Up this (poor RPs), then delicately up and R to ledge. Finish up R side of prow.

FA: Aaron Campbell, Mick Jennings, 1997

24
8 Cherub Trad 25m

Traverse L just below the cave to the corner at the L end of the cave to belay. Traverse easily to the R to abseil as for 'Cannes'.

Start: To the L of 'Cannes' is a short wall capped by a cavernous roof, with a distinctive flaring chimney at its R-hand end. The 'Cannes' rappel is directly above this. Start at the boulder somewhere near the centre of this wall where a vague line leads up and L toward the cave above.

FA: Ylva Wakefield, Tim Day, 1996

25
17 ** Modern Times Trad 60m
  1. 25m As for 'Ancient Times' to R-hand end of the ledge. Progress to block at top of slab. 2) 35m (crux) Up and R across wall on in-cuts to base of juggy crack in steep wall. Motor up (sling runners) to a rest on the lip. Cross 'Ancient Times' to finish directly up the steep, juggy head-wall.

FA: Ylva Wakefield, Tim Day (alt), 1996

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