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Table of contents

1. Hollywood Bowl 25 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.268096, -37.214765

Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cornered By Fans

The clean corner at the L end of the slab.

Start: About 250—300m L of the main 'bowl' is a smooth recessed slab, bounded by corners at both ends. There you will find this route.

FA: David Brereton, James McIntosh, 1991

10 Trad 15m
2 Scalper's Egress

Up the crack and L-facing corner above. David Brereton, James McIntosh Nov 91.

Start: The central line on the wall, above the highest point of the huge detached block.

9 Trad 12m
3 Cannes

The L of the two obvious cracks just around L of 'Bowled Out'. Climb the crack for about 10m. Traverse easily L to finish up the arête. Abseil off.

FA: Tony Wilson, James McIntosh, 1991

10 Trad 30m
4 Nice

The R crack and corner behind.

FA: Tony Wilson, James McIntosh, 1991

8 Trad 30m
5 The Enchantress

Rather contrived. An enjoyable enough route, but not in the same league as 'Romancing Times'. 1) 35m (crux) As for 'Romancing Times' but head up just L of the brown rock past an obvious under-cling at 25m. 2) 35m Up R, taking both overhangs pretty much direct.

FA: Melanie and James McIntosh (alt), 1992

18 Trad 70m
6 *** Romancing Times

Despite the crux being very run-out, James is reported to have declared this 'the best new route we have ever done'.

Start: Start as for 'Bowled Out'.

FA: Melanie McIntosh, James McIntosh, 1991

18 R Trad 60m
7 Bowled Out

Start directly below the 'bowl'. 1) 45m Climb up into the foot of the 'bowl' then avoid major difficulty and lack of protection by skirting up and left around the 'bowl'. 2) 20m Up easily.

FA: Ian Ravenscroft, Chris Baxter (alt), Dave Gairns March, 1989

13 Trad 65m
8 ** Arrows of Desire

A pleasant mixture of slab climbing and exposed but juggy face-climbing. Start below central rib, on face R of 'bowl'. 1) 12m Climb the slab and veer R to belay at the L end of a ledge, at a tree. 2) 40m Go up L on to the slabby rib and climb it to the little roof. Go L and pull through the weakness. Up to the next roof, over it, and up cracks to the top.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1987

16 Trad 52m
9 * The Ballad Of Idwal Slabs
  1. 15m Up main L-leading dyke to belay as for 'Arrows of Desire'. 2) 40m Straight up to the R end of first little roof on 'Arrows of Desire'. Move R to easier ground, then head diagonally up L to finish on prow.

FA: James McIntosh, Tony Wilson, 1991

17 Trad 55m
10 ** Chariot Of Fire

Similar climbing to 'Arrows of Desire' but steeper and on even better holds. Start just R of the Ballad of Idwal 'Slabs', 4m L of the little corner. 1) 16m Climb the slab to a ledge. 2) 36m Climb the wall directly above to finish up twin cracks.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1987

15 Trad 52m
11 ** Ancient Times

Quite exposed on the traverse. 1) 35m Climb the scooped line R of Chariots of Fire into the corner above. Go up the corner to the R end of the slabby ledge and up the corner above. When just below the roof step R to a ledge. 2) 25m Pull over the overhang above the belay and traverse back L (watch rope-drag) on the lip into the L-leaning arch, which is followed in a dramatic position until the line heads up the steep wall above on surprising holds. 2a) 30m, grade 15**. traverse 4m left from belay, head up through the juggy break in small roof(!) in to the original line. Well protected.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

14 Trad 60m
12 * Bubbles Of Fantasy

Start 15m R of 'Ancient Times'. 1) 30m Follow the delightful arête. 2) 30m Climb the flake to the roof, L (brittle) into gully and up.

FA: Melanie & James McIntosh, 1990

10 Trad 60m
13 * Citizen Cane - Wings of Desire - LHV

Airy traverse. May be a little easier if you are shorter than 5'9" / 170cm

  1. 25m (16) As for Citizen Cane to ledge belay. Take lots of wires.

  2. 25m (22) Up the fantastic steep juggy corner of 'Wings of Desire' , through right side of roof. Traverse the lip of the roof left (good medium cams, but way pumpy to place) for around 5-6m to open book corner. Wide steep bridging on good holds. Left under small roof to big ledge belay. Roped scramble off left (approx 15m), then over to either the abseil station above Citizin Cane or the 'Main Wall' abseil station.

FA: Josef Goding, Anthony Pattison, 2007

22 Trad 50m 2
14 ** Wings of Desire

A high-quality route. Start 15m R of Bubbles of Fantasy. 1) 25m (18) Up large L-facing corner then main wall, passing a small R-facing corner. At its top, step L, then diagonally R to orange sickle. Up jugs and R-facing corner to belay on ledge. 2) 25m (crux) L-facing corner to roof, boldly through this (#3.5 cam at lip), then up and diagonally L to rest on arete (fixed wire). Up, step L and up wall, finishing through bulge on L.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day (alt), 1991

23 R Trad 55m
15 ** Citizen Kane

Sustained and absorbing face climbing. 'Excellent' protection available. Start a few metres L of Wing of 'Desire'. 1) 25m (16) Straight up face, moving slightly R at diagonal, then up to belay at R end of ledge. 2) 25m (crux) Traverse 2m R, then directly up the crack-line to the R end of striped mini-roof. Through this to overlap, and directly up veering slightly L to finish at the chain.

FA: Tim Day, Ylva Wakefield, 1996

22 Trad 50m
16 Metropolis

Start: Start as for "Chariot Of Fire".

  1. 15m (-) As for "Chariot Of Fire".

  2. 40m (17) Climb the wall tending left to the ledge. Move up to the base of the right diagonal ramp. Mantle this, then directly up the steep headwall.

FA: yiva Wakefield, Tim Day (alt), 1996

17 Trad 55m 2
17 ** Kickback

Sporty incuts up a sustained face, then exciting trad climbing up a steep weakness. Starts about 8m right of 'Wings of Desire' and 3m left of 'Trust'. Traverse left across pocketed wall (two FHs) then up the face above past horizontal break (cams) and onto face proper. Edge for pleasure on sideways sloping rails (three FHs) to crux move right into seam crack. Up this crack with a dogleg left past a huge fang for 20m to top trad belay. Full trad rack to #2 SLCD required.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006

24 Trad 35m
18 Trust

Start as for Faraway so Close. Up then diagonally L past broken niche. Up R of 'gargoyle', finishing R of mossy streak. Join Faraway so Close 4m below top.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

21 Trad 25m
19 ** Faraway So Close

Appearances can deceive. 'Excellent' climbing.

FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens, 1996

22 Trad 24m
20 The Pillow Book

The open-book crescent. Directly up off the block (RPs and other wires) to base of crescent. Move L past BR then back R above roof.

FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens, 1996

21 Trad 24m
21 The Unbelievable Truth

Step up R off block (RPs), then up (BR, FH), to join 'The Pillow Book' at base of crescent. Step R and up R side of arête (BR) to top.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day, 1996

23 Trad 24m
22 ** Ancient Times Direct

40m 15, the 'S' shaped crack system. Up the line 10m to overhang [watch for brittle rock], through it to the original line.

Start: Start as for "Ancient Times"

FA: Tim Wallace, Hannah Loki and Phil Cutlet, 2005

14 Trad 20m
23 The Ballad of Idwal Slabs direct finish

Good climbing with a poorly protected crux. Start from ledge at The Ballad of Idwal 'Slabs' anchor. 1) 40m Straight up to, and through small break in roof-let R of 'Arrows of Desire'. Traverse 2m L on flakes (poor RPs) to shallow groove. Up this (poor RPs), then delicately up and R to ledge. Finish up R side of prow.

FA: Aaron Campbell, Mick Jennings, 1997

21 R Trad 40m
24 Cherub

Traverse L just below the cave to the corner at the L end of the cave to belay. Traverse easily to the R to abseil as for 'Cannes'.

Start: To the L of 'Cannes' is a short wall capped by a cavernous roof, with a distinctive flaring chimney at its R-hand end. The 'Cannes' rappel is directly above this. Start at the boulder somewhere near the centre of this wall where a vague line leads up and L toward the cave above.

FA: Ylva Wakefield, Tim Day, 1996

8 Trad 25m
25 ** Modern Times
  1. 25m As for 'Ancient Times' to R-hand end of the ledge. Progress to block at top of slab. 2) 35m (crux) Up and R across wall on in-cuts to base of juggy crack in steep wall. Motor up (sling runners) to a rest on the lip. Cross 'Ancient Times' to finish directly up the steep, juggy head-wall.

FA: Ylva Wakefield, Tim Day (alt), 1996

17 Trad 60m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
8 Cherub Trad 25m
Nice Trad 30m
9 Scalper's Egress Trad 12m
10 * Bubbles Of Fantasy Trad 60m
Cannes Trad 30m
Cornered By Fans Trad 15m
13 Bowled Out Trad 65m
14 ** Ancient Times Trad 60m
** Ancient Times Direct Trad 20m
15 ** Chariot Of Fire Trad 52m
16 ** Arrows of Desire Trad 52m
17 Metropolis Trad 55m 2
** Modern Times Trad 60m
* The Ballad Of Idwal Slabs Trad 55m
18 The Enchantress Trad 70m
18 R *** Romancing Times Trad 60m
21 The Pillow Book Trad 24m
Trust Trad 25m
21 R The Ballad of Idwal Slabs direct finish Trad 40m
22 * Citizen Cane - Wings of Desire - LHV Trad 50m 2
** Citizen Kane Trad 50m
** Faraway So Close Trad 24m
23 The Unbelievable Truth Trad 24m
23 R ** Wings of Desire Trad 55m
24 ** Kickback Trad 35m