A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Hut Creek Track 11 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

1.1. Red Cave 3 routes in Crag

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wendy

Follow the steep crack in the left side of the cave, exiting through the same cave as "Welcome To Barbados".

FA: Simon Mentz, Malcolm Matheson, 1992

23 Trad 15m
2 *** Welcome to Barbados

Large roof doesn't even come close to describing this.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, James Falla, Paul Hoskins, 1993

29 Trad 50m
3 * Have a Nice Day

Fun roof problem.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Paul Hoskins, 2000

26 Trad 10m

1.2. Fawlty Towers 1 route in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Roofy but limited crag.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 131742

Walk up Hut Creek to first rocky peak on right. May be easier these days to access via the cave of Hands access track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Switchback

The main roof, the upper of the two biggest roofs, on the north face of the peak.

FA: Malcom Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 1993

23 Trad 35m

1.3. Nearby Crag 3 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A steep little crag on the south side of Hutt Creek about 1 km east of the Cave of Hands.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach along Hutt Creek Track for about a kilometre after the gate until below the crag which is up on the right. Walk straight up the hillside for 15 or 20 minutes.

GR 137735 "Victoria Range" 1:25000 sheet.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Close At Hand

Very fine, sustained bridging. This the left of two big corners on the cliff.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1989

20 Trad 25m
2 ** Duelling Imans

Wild climbing high on the stacked corners just right of 'Close At Hand'. The slightly conrived start robs the climb of a second star.

Start 2 metres right of 'Close At Hand'.

FA: Parrish Robbins, Kieran Loughran, 1990

24 Trad 40m
3 All Around My Hat

The big corner 20 metres right of Duelling Imams.

FA: Parrish Robbins, 1990

20 Trad 30m

1.4. Mordor 4 routes in Crag

Trad and Sport
Description:© (jgoding)


Approach:© (jgoding)

roughly 3km north of the Fortress and about 2km West of Mt Thackeray. Yep - it's in the middle of no-where! Start your walk on the Hutt Creek Track, after half an hour take a right turn (uphill- look for the yellow tape) after crossing two small dry creek beds within about 2-300m of eachother (the turnoff is not far past the 2nd creek bed). Follow this (fairly well marked) track for another hour and a bit to find a little slice of remote heaven. You might find yourself humming "these boots are made for walking" as you go...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Black Gate

Varied climbing amongst orange scoops, over zestful bulges, and up a quality headwall.

Start: Start off the ledge on the right side of the cliff (about 20m off the ground) where there are belay (FH) bolts.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

28 Sport 37m, 15
2 * SheLob's Lair

Spectacular right hand arete.

Start: Start as per 'The Black Gate'.

  1. 15m (22) Up 15m (7 bolts) and step right to rap anchors.

  2. 25m (21) Right onto arete, pull the steep moves past the lair then enjoy the view. 35m abseil.

FA: Benjamin Storey, 2009

22 Sport 40m 2, 13
3 * Dargorlad

Sustained, interesting, well protected but will need a bit more cleaning to become it's best.

Start: About in the middle of the cliff at ground level is an attractive well featured slabby looking wall.

FA: Josef Goding, 2008

18 Trad 25m
4 * Mount Doom

Good fun climbing - well protected

Start: At ground level near the left end of the cliff is an attractive crack.

FA: Josef Goding (P1), Ingvar Lidman (P2), 2008

18 Trad 35m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
18 * Dargorlad Trad 25m 1.4. Mordor
* Mount Doom Trad 35m 1.4. Mordor
20 All Around My Hat Trad 30m 1.3. Nearby Crag
* Close At Hand Trad 25m 1.3. Nearby Crag
22 * SheLob's Lair Sport 40m 2, 13 1.4. Mordor
23 Wendy Trad 15m 1.1. Red Cave
Switchback Trad 35m 1.2. Fawlty Towers
24 ** Duelling Imans Trad 40m 1.3. Nearby Crag
26 * Have a Nice Day Trad 10m 1.1. Red Cave
28 ** The Black Gate Sport 37m, 15 1.4. Mordor
29 *** Welcome to Barbados Trad 50m 1.1. Red Cave