A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Hut Creek Track 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

1.1. Red Cave 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wendy

Follow the steep crack in the left side of the cave, exiting through the same cave as "Welcome To Barbados".

FA: Simon Mentz, Malcolm Matheson, 1992

23Trad 15m
2 *** Welcome to Barbados

Large roof doesn't even come close to describing this.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, James Falla, Paul Hoskins, 1993

29Trad 50m
3 * Have a Nice Day

Fun roof problem.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Paul Hoskins, 2000

26Trad 10m

1.2. Fawlty Towers 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Roofy but limited crag.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 131742

Walk up Hut Creek to first rocky peak on right. May be easier these days to access via the cave of Hands access track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Switchback

The main roof, the upper of the two biggest roofs, on the north face of the peak.

FA: Malcom Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 1993

23Trad 35m

1.3. Nearby Crag 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A steep little crag on the south side of Hutt Creek about 1 km east of the Cave of Hands.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach along Hutt Creek Track for about a kilometre after the gate until below the crag which is up on the right. Walk straight up the hillside for 15 or 20 minutes.

GR 137735 "Victoria Range" 1:25000 sheet.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Close At Hand

Very fine, sustained bridging. This the left of two big corners on the cliff.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1989

20Trad 25m
2 ** Duelling Imans

Wild climbing high on the stacked corners just right of 'Close At Hand'. The slightly conrived start robs the climb of a second star.

Start 2 metres right of 'Close At Hand'.

FA: Parrish Robbins, Kieran Loughran, 1990

24Trad 40m
3 All Around My Hat

The big corner 20 metres right of Duelling Imams.

FA: Parrish Robbins, 1990

20Trad 30m

1.4. Mordor 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:© (jgoding)

Remote

Approach:© (jgoding)

roughly 3km north of the Fortress and about 2km West of Mt Thackeray. Yep - it's in the middle of no-where! Start your walk on the Hutt Creek Track, after half an hour take a right turn (uphill- look for the yellow tape) after crossing two small dry creek beds within about 2-300m of eachother (the turnoff is not far past the 2nd creek bed). Follow this (fairly well marked) track for another hour and a bit to find a little slice of remote heaven. You might find yourself humming "these boots are made for walking" as you go...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Black Gate

Varied climbing amongst orange scoops, over zestful bulges, and up a quality headwall.

Start: Start off the ledge on the right side of the cliff (about 20m off the ground) where there are belay (FH) bolts.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

28Sport 37m, 15
2 * SheLob's Lair

Spectacular right hand arete.

Start: Start as per 'The Black Gate'.

  1. 15m (22) Up 15m (7 bolts) and step right to rap anchors.

  2. 25m (21) Right onto arete, pull the steep moves past the lair then enjoy the view. 35m abseil.

FA: Benjamin Storey, 2009

22Sport 40m, 13
3 * Dargorlad

Sustained, interesting, well protected but will need a bit more cleaning to become it's best.

Start: About in the middle of the cliff at ground level is an attractive well featured slabby looking wall.

FA: Josef Goding, 2008

18Trad 25m
4 * Mount Doom

Good fun climbing - well protected

Start: At ground level near the left end of the cliff is an attractive crack.

FA: Josef Goding (P1), Ingvar Lidman (P2), 2008

18Trad 35m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
18 * Dargorlad Trad 25m 1.4. Mordor
* Mount Doom Trad 35m 1.4. Mordor
20 All Around My Hat Trad 30m 1.3. Nearby Crag
* Close At Hand Trad 25m 1.3. Nearby Crag
22 * SheLob's Lair Sport 40m, 13 1.4. Mordor
23 Wendy Trad 15m 1.1. Red Cave
Switchback Trad 35m 1.2. Fawlty Towers
24 ** Duelling Imans Trad 40m 1.3. Nearby Crag
26 * Have a Nice Day Trad 10m 1.1. Red Cave
28 ** The Black Gate Sport 37m, 15 1.4. Mordor
29 *** Welcome to Barbados Trad 50m 1.1. Red Cave