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Routes

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Grade Route
1

Up face left of cave, follow chimney crack, up and under large balancing rock, round left and up to finish. Vertical cam crack on right above climb for belay.

FA: Matt White and Caillan Sainsbury, 1st Nov

2
15 Rogano Trad 20m

Step off the ledge onto the hanging face. Move up the overlap. Climb a crack on the right through the bulge then up taking either of the two cracks.

Start: Scramble up to a ledge on the left hand side of the south-facing wall.

FA: Chris Cope, Carol Robinson, 2000

3
16 Red and Blue Trad 25m

Undercling then layback out of the cave and move up to an overlap. Move slightly right and climb the wall to a groove high on the face and an easy finish.

Start: Starts as for Punchdrunk.

FA: Chris Cope, Carol Robinson, 1987

4
17 Punch Drunk Trad 25m

Quite nice.

Start: Starts left of Thunderbirds Are Go! at the cave just left of the arete on the main cliff.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust, Gelnn Tempest, Richard Smith, 1983

5
6

Sustained route on great rock sure to get you pumped.

Start: 'Arete' at the left hand end of the main cliff.

FA: Craig Nottle, Kevin Lindorff - Alt. Leads - as well as Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith, Michael Wust and Lady Penelope (originally done in two pitches), 1983

7
23 Modesty Blaise Mixed 35m, 1

Up past a bolt (crux) to easier ground.

Start: The major line equidistant from 'Grim Reaper' and Thunderbirds Are Go!

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1990

8
23 M1 International Rescue Aid 25m, 1

A worthwhile climb taking the curving flake/corner.

Start: 3m left of 'Grim Reaper'

FA: Glenn Tempest, Rob Nabben, 1991

9
22 Fireball XL5 Trad 32m

Go left and up into the corner just right of an easy line. Climb the corner to the ledge, easier climbing leads to the top.

Start: From the small ledge on 'International Rescue'

FA: Glenn Tempest, Rob Nabben, 1991

10

Start: Jam crack left of 'Grumpy'

FA: Ian (Humzoo) Thomas, Phil Cullen, Andrew Bowman, 1977

11
13 Grumpy Trad 31m

Guide books describe this as "It makes you grumpy because it is harder than it looks". Consensus is that it makes you grumpy because it is harder than it is graded! Leaders should be confident at around grade 15/16 before tackling this climb.

Start: Start beneath the obvious chimney/offwidth (initialed) close to the centre of the face.

FA: Bob Connell, Bruno Zielke, 1970

12
26 Velcro Mixed 30m, 5

Power and finesse.

Start: 3m left of 'All Out'

FA: Mike Law, 1992

13
12 M4 All Out Aid 31m

Peg(!) the the crack to the bulge then up to the sloping ledge at 18m. Move right to the corner and continue free to the top.

Start: 28m left of 'Not Out'

FA: Harley Burke, David Burke, 1972

14
10 Not Out Trad 31m

Up the crack past a ledge and tree(?) to the top.

Start: 7m left of 'Gnome'

FA: Harley Burke, David Burke, 1970

15
17 * Gnome Trad 31m

A great climb.

Start: Right end of the cliff beneath an overhang (initialled).

FA: Bob Connell, Bruno Zielke, 1970

16

Climb the flake-crack to overlap. Step right to arete. Up corner.

Start: Curving flake-crack 2.5m left of 'Gnome'.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, 1997

17
13 Arsenic Hour Trad 30m

Previously overlooked for good reason.

Start: Corner right of 'Gnome'

FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, 1997

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