This crag is unlocated

If you know where this crag is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. Crag locations are available in our mobile app. Contact us if you have any issues.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

The northern part of the Park, including Mt Stapylton is currently closed to all access following the January 2014 fires. Check the Access Issues for each area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

National Park

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 Rogano Trad 20m

Step off the ledge onto the hanging face. Move up the overlap. Climb a crack on the right through the bulge then up taking either of the two cracks.

Start: Scramble up to a ledge on the left hand side of the south-facing wall.

FA: Chris Cope, Carol Robinson, 2000

2
16 Red and Blue Trad 25m

Undercling then layback out of the cave and move up to an overlap. Move slightly right and climb the wall to a groove high on the face and an easy finish.

Start: Starts as for Punchdrunk.

FA: Chris Cope, Carol Robinson, 1987

3
17 Punch Drunk Trad 25m

Quite nice.

Start: Starts left of Thunderbirds Are Go! at the cave just left of the arete on the main cliff.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust, Gelnn Tempest, Richard Smith, 1983

4
5

Sustained route on great rock sure to get you pumped.

Start: 'Arete' at the left hand end of the main cliff.

FA: Craig Nottle, Kevin Lindorff - Alt. Leads - as well as Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith, Michael Wust and Lady Penelope (originally done in two pitches), 1983

6
23 Modesty Blaise Mixed 35m, 1

Up past a bolt (crux) to easier ground.

Start: The major line equidistant from 'Grim Reaper' and Thunderbirds Are Go!

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1990

7
23 M1 International Rescue Aid 25m, 1

A worthwhile climb taking the curving flake/corner.

Start: 3m left of 'Grim Reaper'

FA: Glenn Tempest, Rob Nabben, 1991

8
22 Fireball XL5 Trad 32m

Go left and up into the corner just right of an easy line. Climb the corner to the ledge, easier climbing leads to the top.

Start: From the small ledge on 'International Rescue'

FA: Glenn Tempest, Rob Nabben, 1991

9

Start: Jam crack left of 'Grumpy'

FA: Ian (Humzoo) Thomas, Phil Cullen, Andrew Bowman, 1977

10
13 Grumpy Trad 31m

Guide books describe this as "It makes you grumpy because it is harder than it looks". Consensus is that it makes you grumpy because it is harder than it is graded! Leaders should be confident at around grade 15/16 before tackling this climb.

Start: Start beneath the obvious chimney/offwidth (initialed) close to the centre of the face.

FA: Bob Connell, Bruno Zielke, 1970

11
26 Velcro Mixed 30m, 5

Power and finesse.

Start: 3m left of 'All Out'

FA: Mike Law, 1992

12
12 M4 All Out Aid 31m

Peg(!) the the crack to the bulge then up to the sloping ledge at 18m. Move right to the corner and continue free to the top.

Start: 28m left of 'Not Out'

FA: Harley Burke, David Burke, 1972

13
10 Not Out Trad 31m

Up the crack past a ledge and tree(?) to the top.

Start: 7m left of 'Gnome'

FA: Harley Burke, David Burke, 1970

14
17 * Gnome Trad 31m

A great climb.

Start: Right end of the cliff beneath an overhang (initialled).

FA: Bob Connell, Bruno Zielke, 1970

15

Climb the flake-crack to overlap. Step right to arete. Up corner.

Start: Curving flake-crack 2.5m left of 'Gnome'.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, 1997

16
13 Arsenic Hour Trad 30m

Previously overlooked for good reason.

Start: Corner right of 'Gnome'

FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, 1997

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.