Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Up face left of cave, follow chimney crack, up and under large balancing rock, round left and up to finish. Vertical cam crack on right above climb for belay.

FA: Matt White & Caillan Sainsbury, 1 Nov 2014

Step off the ledge onto the hanging face. Move up the overlap. Climb a crack on the right through the bulge then up taking either of the two cracks.

Start: Scramble up to a ledge on the left hand side of the south-facing wall.

FA: Chris Cope & Carol Robinson, 1987

Undercling then layback out of the cave and move up to an overlap. Move slightly right and climb the wall to a groove high on the face and an easy finish.

Start: Starts as for Punchdrunk.

FA: Chris Cope & Carol Robinson, 1987

Quite nice.

Start: Starts left of Thunderbirds Are Go! at the cave just left of the arete on the main cliff.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust, Gelnn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1983

Sustained route on great rock sure to get you pumped.

Start: 'Arete' at the left hand end of the main cliff.

FA: Craig Nottle, Kevin Lindorff - Alt. Leads - as well as Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith, Michael Wust & Lady Penelope (originally done in two pitches), 1983

Up past a bolt (crux) to easier ground.

Start: The major line equidistant from 'Grim Reaper' and Thunderbirds Are Go!

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1990

1 23

A worthwhile climb taking the curving flake/corner.

Start: 3m left of 'Grim Reaper'. From the small ledge, use the bolt for aid and climb the thin crack.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rob Nabben, 1991

Go left and up into the corner just right of an easy line. Climb the corner to the ledge, easier climbing leads to the top.

Start: From the small ledge on 'International Rescue'

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rob Nabben, 1991

Start: Jam crack left of 'Grumpy'

FA: Ian (Humzoo) Thomas, Phil Cullen & Andrew Bowman, 1977

Guide books describe this as "It makes you grumpy because it is harder than it looks". Consensus is that it makes you grumpy because it is harder than it is graded! Leaders should be confident at around grade 15/16 before tackling this climb.

Start: Start beneath the obvious chimney/offwidth (initialed) close to the centre of the face.

FA: Bob Connell & Bruno Zielke, 1970

Power and finesse.

Start: 3m left of 'All Out'

FA: Mike Law, 1992

1 12

Peg(!) the the crack to the bulge then up to the sloping ledge at 18m. Move right to the corner and continue free to the top.

Start: 28m left of 'Not Out'

FA: Harley Burke & David Burke, 1972

Up the crack past a ledge and tree(?) to the top.

Start: 7m left of 'Gnome'

FA: Harley Burke & David Burke, 1970

A great climb.

Start: Right end of the cliff beneath an overhang (initialled).

FA: Bob Connell & Bruno Zielke, 1970

Climb the flake-crack to overlap. Step right to arete. Up corner.

Start: Curving flake-crack 2.5m left of 'Gnome'.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1997

Previously overlooked for good reason.

Start: Corner right of 'Gnome' then continue up and left on wall to ledge. Left arĂȘte.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1997

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