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Description

A great find - the then bumblies Julian and Simon managed to bolt and, eventually, send some classic steep sport routes.

Be aware that most routes at this crag rely on one bolt keeping you off the deck, even when you're well up the pitch. If a bolt breaks or pulls, or a biner unclips, you're toast. Bad belaying pretty much guarantees groundfall potential as well - this has already resulted in a number of big plummets, near groundfalls, and actual groundfalls even from quite high on routes (thankfully with surprisingly minimal injuries, so far).

The climbs are great - but it's your own responsibility to decide whether or not to climb them.

Mobile coverage is poor to non-existent from the car-park to and at the caves. However there is coverage from the top terrace at Pygmy Terraces near the car-park so there may also be coverage if you scramble to the top of Millenium.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Note the road from Buandik campground is closed in the cold wet months (from about Jun/Jul) to protect the road itself, and is scheduled to open at 'October' 31 each year. The Parks Vic website has a link to the 'Grampians' Road Report, which gives current road conditions and road closures. If the gate is closed keen climbers can still get there simply by walking up the road from Buandik (about 1 hr total). If the gate is open, drive up Goat Track from Buandik for about 1.5km. This crag pretty much completely occupies the top of the hill to the right (south) as Goat Track reaches it's high point. 2WD cars can be coaxed up the hill...but a bit of clearance and/or 4WD is certainly desirable to navigate the large water bars and steep loose rocky sections (softroaders will be fine). When the road reaches a saddle at the top of the hill and starts to drop for the first time, there is a parking bay on the left (north) side of the road. The walk-in starts directly opposite, you can't really see the crag so just follow the well-formed track. The view of the crag in the first topo below is from the intersection of Goat Track and 'Victoria Range' Road - if you end up here you've gone too far, go back towards Buandik until you reach the saddle.

Goat Track is equally passable to/from the east (i.e. for suitable cars), and joins up with Syphon Rd at the eastern foot of the range. This way is probably a bit quicker if you're driving to/from Halls Gap but involves a bit more rough driving. Great views though.

The walking track is well trod and easy to follow, and initially heads away from the road but then starts veering left and contours the hillside, until you reach the 'Five Spice' cave after about 10 minutes.

© (willmonks)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
26 * Five Spice Trad 10m

Looks like a fun bit of steep thugging.

Start: This is the route on its own in the cave you get to before the main area.

FA: Stuart Wyithe

2
Unknown Project Sport 12m

A red fixed hanger and a glue-reinforced flake can be found on this line.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Five Spice'

FA: Equipped by Sharik Walker?, 2000

3
24 R * Living With Sister Sport 10m, 5

Careful on the runout finish.

Start: Start in the left of the main cave, a few metres left of Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

4
29 R ** Nomads, Saints and Indians Sport 18m, 7

Roof climbers rave about this one. 'Steep' jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution.

Start: Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

5

The best "moderate" route here. Nomads to the 5th bolt, watch out for the run out.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

6
29 R * Red Vinyl Trad 20m

Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

7
32 R ** Fire in da Belly Trad 25m

A whole new route without a single extra bolt!

Start: Start as for 'Red Vinyl'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

8
32 R * Dual Fuel Trad 20m

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

9
30 R *** Breathing Gasoline Trad 28m

A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

10
25 ** Sniffing Petrol Sport 15m, 5

Pumpy fun for the kids who aren't up to 'Breathing Gasoline'. A good find as this cave is under-endowed in the 25-27 bracket.

Start: Start as for 'Breathing Gasoline'.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2010

11
28 ** Tunnel to Caracas Sport 15m, 5

Climbs the inside of the tunnel feature just R of Nomads. It looks a bit obscure but is very good.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

12
29 R ** Tunnel Vision Sport 25m, 8

Extension of TTC.

FA: Kent Paterson, early, 2009

13
27 R * Fat and Sassy Sport 15m, 3

One of three truly gobsmacking lines out to the very top of this humungous cave, but it takes some stuffing around to get started.

Start: Starts from the ledge above 'Bwana' (you can avoid actually climbing 'Bwana' by simply stick clipping it\'s anchor!).

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

14
28 * Bwana Sport 9m, 2

Boulderers will love this.

Start: Start about 8m R of Nomads.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

15

The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent.

Start: Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of 'Bwana'.

FA: Garth Miller, 2000

16
31 * Eat More Lard Sport 23m

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

17
23 * The Floating Cloud Sport 15m, 5

Great rock and some nice moves, but it's a shame about the rest ledges ruining the middle section.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall at a well chalked low hanging prow.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

18
Project Sport 9m

The rounded arete just R of Floating Cloud

19
23 * Verdensrom Trad 15m

This beautifully coloured wall is unfortunately quite cruxy...but people still seem to like it.

Start: Start 5m R of Floating Cloud.

FA: some Czech dude, 2000

20
22 Reckless Mind Mixed 15m, 3

Now retroed with 3 bolts and a rap anchor. It's best not to lower off the anchor because it's over the top and will probably trash your rope. Abseil or back jump.

Start: Start about 50m L of where you scramble up from the Main Cave.

FA: Julian Saunders (solo) 1990s, 2000

21
24 Unknown Sport 7m, 3

Short but action-packed crimpiness.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Reckless Mind'.

22

Takes SFON past 3 bolts. Then direct up trad weakness.

FA: Matt 'Master of the mid grade' Adams

23

Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams.

Start: Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1997

24
26 R ** Velocity of Time Sport 15m

Another great looking roof. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start a few metres L of 'Labyrinths'.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

25
26 R ** Labyrinths Sport 15m

The prime line through this gorgeous red-roofed cave. Limestone like roof pockets

Start: Start on the right side in the base of the cave.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

26
20 R Kidney Stoned Sport 18m

Maybe a bit contrived but still damn good fun. You'd be forgiven for thinking the route was named after the striking unusual kidney shaped plate of rock it follows. But by some bizarre and unfortunate coincidence, Bob happened to pass some actual kidney stones while sending it! Stretched urethra anyone? Ouccchhh!

Start: Start R of the cave.

FA: Bob Novellino, 1995

28
19 Chapped Lips Trad 14m

Nice. Follow the same line as 'Blabber Mouth' until it steepens then move diagonally left to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

29
19 Blabber Mouth Trad 12m

take the obvious central line to where it steepens, with a hard move near the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

30
14 Time Out Trad 10m

Up the face 1 metre left of 'Time In Memorial' to the horizonatl traverse left to the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

31
21 To The Point Trad 14m

Start as for 'Blabber Mouth' but move across the opening of the cave. Pull through overlap to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

32
12 Time In Memorial Trad 9m

Starts in the middle of the wall off a flake. Straight up then veer left.

FA: Chris Lawrence, Geoff Butcher, 1991

33
20 R Oxford Comma Sport 10m, 3

This gets a serious rating because it only has a single biner lower off. Make up your own mind whether to trust it.

Start: Start at the cute little orange face tucked away on a boulder just right of the walking track, approx 40m before you hit the 'Five Spice' cave.

FA: Kent Paterson, american Elliot, early, 2009

Open trips

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