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Description

A great find - the then bumblies Julian and Simon managed to bolt and, eventually, send some classic steep sport routes.

Be aware that most routes at this crag rely on one bolt keeping you off the deck, even when you're well up the pitch. If a bolt breaks or pulls, or a biner unclips, you're toast. Bad belaying pretty much guarantees groundfall potential as well - this has already resulted in a number of big plummets, near groundfalls, and actual groundfalls even from quite high on routes (thankfully with surprisingly minimal injuries, so far).

The climbs are great - but it's your own responsibility to decide whether or not to climb them.

Mobile coverage is poor to non-existent from the car-park to and at the caves. However there is coverage from the top terrace at Pygmy Terraces near the car-park so there may also be coverage if you scramble to the top of Millenium.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Note the road from Buandik campground is closed in the cold wet months (from about Jun/Jul) to protect the road itself, and is scheduled to open at 'October' 31 each year. The Parks Vic website has a link to the 'Grampians' Road Report, which gives current road conditions and road closures. If the gate is closed keen climbers can still get there simply by walking up the road from Buandik (about 1 hr total). If the gate is open, drive up Goat Track from Buandik for about 1.5km. This crag pretty much completely occupies the top of the hill to the right (south) as Goat Track reaches it's high point. 2WD cars can be coaxed up the hill...but a bit of clearance and/or 4WD is certainly desirable to navigate the large water bars and steep loose rocky sections (softroaders will be fine). When the road reaches a saddle at the top of the hill and starts to drop for the first time, there is a parking bay on the left (north) side of the road. The walk-in starts directly opposite, you can't really see the crag so just follow the well-formed track. The view of the crag in the first topo below is from the intersection of Goat Track and 'Victoria Range' Road - if you end up here you've gone too far, go back towards Buandik until you reach the saddle.

Goat Track is equally passable to/from the east (i.e. for suitable cars), and joins up with Syphon Rd at the eastern foot of the range. This way is probably a bit quicker if you're driving to/from Halls Gap but involves a bit more rough driving. Great views though.

The walking track is well trod and easy to follow, and initially heads away from the road but then starts veering left and contours the hillside, until you reach the 'Five Spice' cave after about 10 minutes.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
26 * Five Spice Trad 10m

Looks like a fun bit of steep thugging.

Start: This is the route on its own in the cave you get to before the main area.

FA: Stuart Wyithe

2
Unknown Project Sport 12m

A red fixed hanger and a glue-reinforced flake can be found on this line.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Five Spice'

FA: Equipped by Sharik Walker?, 2000

3
24 R * Living With Sister Sport 10m, 5

Careful on the runout finish.

Start in the left of the main cave, a few metres left of Nomads.

5 bolts to finish in the middle of nowhere. Lower off the last or back clean it. The finish is fairly juggy but you really wouldn't want to blow the last clip.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

4
29 R *** Nomads, Saints and Indians Sport 18m, 7

Roof climbers rave about this one. Steep jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution.

Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave.

7 bolts to rap anchor. There's almost groundfall potential at the 5th and 6th bolts, and also beware the block behind you at the last bolt.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

5

The best "moderate" route here. Nomads to the 5th bolt, watch out for the run out.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

6
29 R ** Red Vinyl Trad 20m

Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads.

Break R from Nomads after the 1st bolt, then follow the line of holds 1.5m R of Nomads. It's a shame it finishes in the middle of nowhere at the last bolt a few metres before the lip. There's no anchor - either trust the ring or back-clean it.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

7
32 R ** Fire in da Belly Trad 25m

A whole new route without a single extra bolt!

Start as for Red Vinyl.

Extends Red Vinyl to the lip. No more bolts, although it does now have it's own anchor. Make sure you clip the last bolt on Red Vinyl then drop back down right, up, then back left to the crux. You need an alert belayer once you're out near the lip.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

8
32 R * Dual Fuel Trad 20m

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads / Red Vinyl

Start as for Red Vinyl then link into Breathing Gasoline after about 9m. This eliminates the rest on Breathing Gasoline, making this route rather more sustained! For the record, on 26/4/09, not really knowing what went where, Mike Patz sent a similar link-up at the same sort of grade, this time starting up the first few bolts of Nomads then finishing up Breathing Gasoline.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

9
30 R *** Breathing Gasoline Trad 28m

A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads.

Start as for Nomads but stay on the hanging arete/nose, then follow the line of holds rightwards and outwards forever.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

10
25 ** Sniffing Petrol Sport 15m, 5

Pumpy fun for the kids who aren't up to Breathing Gasoline. A good find as this cave is under-endowed in the 25-27 bracket.

Start as for Breathing Gasoline.

Up Breathing Gasoline for 5 bolts then traverse R to the anchors of Tunnel to Caracas. To ensure all possible permutations and combinations are covered, no doubt the 'megaclassic' extension into Tunnel Vision will follow soon.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2010

11
28 ** Tunnel to Caracas Sport 15m, 5

Climbs the inside of the tunnel feature just R of Nomads. It looks a bit obscure but is very good.

Start as for Nomads.

Up Nomads to its 1st bolt then a perplexing move right into the tunnel to the undercling rail. Tough clip of 3rd bolt (long draw helps), then tough steep moves into roof finish.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

12
29 R ** Tunnel Vision Sport 25m, 8

Extension of 'Tunnel to Caracas' .

Climb all of 'Tunnel to Caracas' then continue up the seam above to join into 'Fat and Sassy' just before it takes the left fork in the seam. Finish up the runout top section of 'Fat and Sassy' to the top of the cave.

FA: Kent Paterson & early, 2009

13
27 R * Fat and Sassy Sport 15m, 3

One of three truly gobsmacking lines out to the very top of this humungous cave, but it takes some stuffing around to get started.

Starts from the ledge above Bwana (you can avoid actually climbing Bwana by simply stick clipping it's anchor!).

At first it takes the major cliff-splitting seam, then the left fork, passing the hueco with guano, and finishing up the grey streak above the top roof. Has 3 bolts, spacey runouts, and a new anchor.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

14
28 ** Bwana Sport 9m, 2

Boulderers will love this.

Start about 8m R of Nomads.

Jumpy moves up and R to the steep hanging prow, the gap above the 2nd bolt will give you more than enough of an airy feeling for such a short route.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

15

The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent.

Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of Bwana.

Up from the left to gain the faint arete then move R and up the steep grey face to the top.

FA: Garth Miller, 2000

16
31 * Eat More Lard Sport 23m

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging Gigolo.

Start up The Floating Cloud then move left into Aging Gigolo.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

17
23 ** The Floating Cloud Sport 15m, 5

Great rock and some nice moves, but it's a shame about the rest ledges ruining the middle section.

Start at the R end of the wall at a well chalked low hanging prow.

Bouldery start, then purists should stay L on the prow and avoid the big rests. Nice moves to finish.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

18
Project Sport 9m

The rounded arete just R of Floating Cloud

19
23 * Verdensrom Trad 15m

This beautifully coloured wall is unfortunately quite cruxy...but people still seem to like it.

Start 5m R of Floating Cloud.

Trend L then hard moves back up R to the arete. Follow the underside of arete to rap anchor.

FA: some Czech dude, 2000

Second Tier

IImmediately above the Main Cave is another tier of impressive jutting overhangs with mostly superb stone, but with disappointingly few feasible lines. Quickest access from the Main Cave is to (carefully) solo up a short chossy corner about 20m R of Verdensrom, then wander 50m L to Reckless Mind or pick your way right along disconnected ledge systems for 50m to Shattering Reflections. You can also approach directly from the car by scrambling up the gully/hillside 20m right of Five Spice. Don't get your hopes up about the humungous orange cave beneath Shattering Reflections: it's choss.

20
22 * Reckless Mind Mixed 15m, 3

Now retroed with 3 bolts and a rap anchor. It's best not to lower off the anchor because it's over the top and will probably trash your rope. Abseil or back jump.

Start: Start about 50m L of where you scramble up from the Main Cave.

FA: Julian Saunders (solo) 1990s, 2000

21
24 * Unknown Sport 7m, 3

Short but action-packed crimpiness.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Reckless Mind'.

22

Takes SFON past 3 bolts. Then direct up trad weakness.

FA: Matt 'Master of the mid grade' Adams

23

Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams.

Start: Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1997

Millennium Top Tier

At the very top of this hill is a final layer of jutting overhangs, with fantastic views all around. Approach up the gully/hillside to the right of Five Spice and Shattering Reflections.

24
26 R ** Velocity of Time Sport 15m

Another great looking roof. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start a few metres L of Labyrinths.

Out the roof trending R, crossing Labyrinths a few metres before the lip.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

25
26 R *** Labyrinths Sport 15m

The prime line through this gorgeous red-roofed cave. Possibly even 3 stars. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start in the base of the cave.

Straight out the red roof then hard moves to the left before the lip.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

26
20 R * Kidney Stoned Sport 18m

Maybe a bit contrived but still damn good fun. You'd be forgiven for thinking the route was named after the striking unusual kidney shaped plate of rock it follows. But by some bizarre and unfortunate coincidence, Bob happened to pass some actual kidney stones while sending it! Stretched urethra anyone? Ouccchhh!

Start R of the cave.

Up to the lip then traverse L along the lip. Impressively pumpy for the grade! At one point you might take a nasty pendulum if you come off - this has resulted in at least one dislocated kneecap.

FA: Bob Novellino, 1995

The next routes were the original climbs in the area, much easier than those for which it is widely known. They're supposed to be on the small wall "at the left end of the largest cave in the middle of the cliff". The only location that looks feasible is the wall at the left end of the Shattering Reflections.. cave but it's a bit hard to match the descriptions to the features.

28
19 Chapped Lips Trad 14m

Nice. Follow the same line as 'Blabber Mouth' until it steepens then move diagonally left to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

29
19 Blabber Mouth Trad 12m

take the obvious central line to where it steepens, with a hard move near the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

30
14 Time Out Trad 10m

Up the face 1 metre left of 'Time In Memorial' to the horizonatl traverse left to the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

31
21 To The Point Trad 14m

Start as for 'Blabber Mouth' but move across the opening of the cave. Pull through overlap to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

32
12 Time In Memorial Trad 9m

Starts in the middle of the wall off a flake. Straight up then veer left.

FA: Chris Lawrence & Geoff Butcher, 1991

The next two routes are on a small terrace at the left-hand end of the cliff. Have not been located.

33
20 R Oxford Comma Sport 10m, 3

This gets a serious rating because it only has a single biner lower off. Make up your own mind whether to trust it.

Start: Start at the cute little orange face tucked away on a boulder just right of the walking track, approx 40m before you hit the 'Five Spice' cave.

FA: Kent Paterson, american Elliot & early, 2009

Activity

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