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Description:© (willmonks)

A great find - the then bumblies Julian and Simon managed to bolt and, eventually, send some classic steep sport routes.

Be aware that most routes at this crag rely on one bolt keeping you off the deck, even when you're well up the pitch. If a bolt breaks or pulls, or a biner unclips, you're toast. Bad belaying pretty much guarantees groundfall potential as well - this has already resulted in a number of big plummets, near groundfalls, and actual groundfalls even from quite high on routes (thankfully with surprisingly minimal injuries, so far).

The climbs are great - but it's your own responsibility to decide whether or not to climb them.

Mobile coverage is poor to non-existent from the car-park to and at the caves. However there is coverage from the top terrace at Pygmy Terraces near the car-park so there may also be coverage if you scramble to the top of Millenium.

Access Issues: inherited from Grampians

National Park

Approach:© (willmonks)

Note the road from Buandik campground is closed in the cold wet months (from about Jun/Jul) to protect the road itself, and is scheduled to open at 'October' 31 each year. The Parks Vic website has a link to the 'Grampians' Road Report, which gives current road conditions and road closures. If the gate is closed keen climbers can still get there simply by walking up the road from Buandik (about 1 hr total). If the gate is open, drive up Goat Track from Buandik for about 1.5km. This crag pretty much completely occupies the top of the hill to the right (south) as Goat Track reaches it's high point. 2WD cars can be coaxed up the hill...but a bit of clearance and/or 4WD is certainly desirable to navigate the large water bars and steep loose rocky sections (softroaders will be fine). When the road reaches a saddle at the top of the hill and starts to drop for the first time, there is a parking bay on the left (north) side of the road. The walk-in starts directly opposite, you can't really see the crag so just follow the well-formed track. The view of the crag in the first topo below is from the intersection of Goat Track and 'Victoria Range' Road - if you end up here you've gone too far, go back towards Buandik until you reach the saddle.

Goat Track is equally passable to/from the east (i.e. for suitable cars), and joins up with Syphon Rd at the eastern foot of the range. This way is probably a bit quicker if you're driving to/from Halls Gap but involves a bit more rough driving. Great views though.

The walking track is well trod and easy to follow, and initially heads away from the road but then starts veering left and contours the hillside, until you reach the 'Five Spice' cave after about 10 minutes.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Five Spice

Looks like a fun bit of steep thugging.

Start: This is the route on its own in the cave you get to before the main area.

FA: Stuart Wyithe,

26
Trad 10m
2 * Living With Sister

Careful on the runout finish.

Start: Start in the left of the main cave, a few metres left of Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

24 R
Sport 10m , 5
3 ** Nomads, Saints and Indians

Roof climbers rave about this one. 'Steep' jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution.

Start: Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

29 R
Sport 18m , 7
4 ** Nomads Saints and Indians Halfway
24
Trad 10m
5 * Red Vinyl

Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

30 R
Trad 20m
6 *** Breathing Gasoline

A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

30 R
Trad 28m
7 ** Tunnel to Caracas

Climbs the inside of the tunnel feature just R of Nomads. It looks a bit obscure but is very good.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

28
Sport 15m , 5
8 ** Tunnel Vision

Extension of TTC.

FA: Kent Paterson, early, 2009

29 R
Sport 25m , 8
9 * Bwana

Boulderers will love this.

Start: Start about 8m R of Nomads.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

28
Sport 9m , 2
10 * A Girl ln Every Port
30
Sport
11 * The Floating Cloud

Great rock and some nice moves, but it's a shame about the rest ledges ruining the middle section.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall at a well chalked low hanging prow.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

23
Sport 15m , 5
12 Reckless Mind

Now retroed with 3 bolts and a rap anchor. It's best not to lower off the anchor because it's over the top and will probably trash your rope. Abseil or back jump.

Start: Start about 50m L of where you scramble up from the Main Cave.

FA: Julian Saunders (solo) 1990s, 2000

22
Mixed 15m , 3
13 ** Shattering Reflections On Narcissism

Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams.

Start: Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1997

29 R
Sport 25m
14 ** Velocity of Time

Another great looking roof. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start a few metres L of 'Labyrinths'.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

26 R
Sport 15m
15 ** Labyrinths

The prime line through this gorgeous red-roofed cave. Possibly even 3 stars. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start in the base of the cave.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

26 R
Sport 15m
16 Kidney Stoned

Maybe a bit contrived but still damn good fun. You'd be forgiven for thinking the route was named after the striking unusual kidney shaped plate of rock it follows. But by some bizarre and unfortunate coincidence, Bob happened to pass some actual kidney stones while sending it! Stretched urethra anyone? Ouccchhh!

Start: Start R of the cave.

FA: Bob Novellino, 1995

20 R
Sport 18m
17 * dual fuel

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

32 R
Trad 20m
18 ** fire in da belly

A whole new route without a single extra bolt!

Start: Start as for 'Red Vinyl'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

32 R
Trad 25m
19 * Verdensrom

This beautifully coloured wall is unfortunately quite cruxy...but people still seem to like it.

Start: Start 5m R of Floating Cloud.

FA: some Czech dude, 2000

23
Trad 15m
20 Chapped Lips

Nice. Follow the same line as 'Blabber Mouth' until it steepens then move diagonally left to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

19
Trad 14m
21 * Eat More Lard

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

31
Sport 23m
22 Blabber Mouth

take the obvious central line to where it steepens, with a hard move near the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

19
Trad 12m
23 Time Out

Up the face 1 metre left of 'Time In Memorial' to the horizonatl traverse left to the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

14
Trad 10m
24 ** Nomads to 5th bolt

The best "moderate" route here.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

24 R
Sport 14m , 5
25 * Sniffing Petrol

Pumpy fun for the kids who aren't up to 'Breathing Gasoline'. A good find as this cave is under-endowed in the 25-27 bracket.

Start: Start as for 'Breathing Gasoline'.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2010

25
Sport 15m , 5
26 To The Point

Start as for 'Blabber Mouth' but move across the opening of the cave. Pull through overlap to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

21
Trad 14m
27 Time In Memorial

Starts in the middle of the wall off a flake. Straight up then veer left.

FA: Chris Lawrence, Geoff Butcher, 1991

12
Trad 9m
28 Project

The rounded arete just R of Floating Cloud

Sport 9m
29 Oxford Comma

This gets a serious rating because it only has a single biner lower off. Make up your own mind whether to trust it.

Start: Start at the cute little orange face tucked away on a boulder just right of the walking track, approx 40m before you hit the 'Five Spice' cave.

FA: Kent Paterson, american Elliot, early, 2009

20 R
Sport 10m , 3
30 Unknown Project

A red fixed hanger and a glue-reinforced flake can be found on this line.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Five Spice'

FA: Equipped by Sharik Walker?, 2000

Sport 12m
31 * What's an Aging Gigolo to Do

The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent.

Start: Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of 'Bwana'.

FA: Garth Miller, 2000

32
Sport 25m
32 Unknown

Short but action-packed crimpiness.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Reckless Mind'.

24
Sport 7m , 3
33 * Fat and Sassy

One of three truly gobsmacking lines out to the very top of this humungous cave, but it takes some stuffing around to get started.

Start: Starts from the ledge above 'Bwana' (you can avoid actually climbing 'Bwana' by simply stick clipping it\'s anchor!).

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

27 R
Sport 15m , 3

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