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© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.


roughly 3km north of the Fortress and about 2km West of Mt Thackeray. Yep - it's in the middle of no-where! Start your walk on the Hutt Creek Track, after half an hour take a right turn (uphill- look for the yellow tape) after crossing two small dry creek beds within about 2-300m of eachother (the turnoff is not far past the 2nd creek bed). Follow this (fairly well marked) track for another hour and a bit to find a little slice of remote heaven. You might find yourself humming "these boots are made for walking" as you go...

© (jgoding)

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Grade Route
28 ** The Black Gate Sport 37m, 15

Varied climbing amongst orange scoops, over zestful bulges, and up a quality headwall.

Start: Start off the ledge on the right side of the cliff (about 20m off the ground) where there are belay (FH) bolts.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

22 * SheLob's Lair Sport 40m 2, 13

Spectacular right hand arete.

Start: Start as per 'The Black Gate'.

  1. 15m (22) Up 15m (7 bolts) and step right to rap anchors.

  2. 25m (21) Right onto arete, pull the steep moves past the lair then enjoy the view. 35m abseil.

FA: Benjamin Storey, 2009

18 * Dargorlad Trad 25m

Sustained, interesting, well protected but will need a bit more cleaning to become it's best.

Start: About in the middle of the cliff at ground level is an attractive well featured slabby looking wall.

FA: Josef Goding, 2008

18 * Mount Doom Trad 35m

Good fun climbing - well protected

Start: At ground level near the left end of the cliff is an attractive crack.

FA: Josef Goding (P1) & Ingvar Lidman (P2), 2008


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