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Summary

Fantastic, remote location but the approach ensures that visits will be few and far between.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Roughly 3km north of the Fortress and about 2km West of Mt Thackeray. Yep - it's in the middle of no-where! Start your walk on the Hutt Creek Track, after half an hour take a right turn (uphill) after crossing two small dry creek beds within about 2-300m of each other (the turnoff is not far past the 2nd creek bed). Continue for another hour and a bit to find a little slice of remote heaven. Apparently was originally well-marked but there has been a large fire through since then.

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Varied climbing amongst orange scoops, over zestful bulges, and up a quality headwall.

Start off the ledge on the right side of the cliff (about 20m off the ground) where there are belay (FH) bolts.

Pleasant climbing up the orange scoops leads to some powerful moves through the first of two bulges. Stumble past a second higher bulge before finishing up the sustained headwall in a great position. For a grade 22 outing climb to the 7th bolt and traverse 4m right to a rap/belay station.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Spectacular right hand arete.

Start: Start as per 'The Black Gate'.

  1. 15m (22) Up 15m (7 bolts) and step right to rap anchors.

  2. 25m (21) Right onto arete, pull the steep moves past the lair then enjoy the view. 35m abseil.

FA: Benjamin Storey, 2009

Sustained, interesting, well protected but will need a bit more cleaning to become it's best (and that's going to happen?).

About in the middle of the cliff at ground level is an attractive well featured slabby looking wall.

Start on a low ledge at the base of the yellow face/slab. Wander a little taking the easiest line to a big ledge, rap off.

FA: Josef Goding, 2008

Good fun climbing - well protected At ground level near the left end of the cliff is an attractive crack. Straight up the crack (20m). Belay on ledge (as FA) or continue up steep crack and left along juggy traverse to rap station on ledge. *Rap is only about 20m so 1 rope is fine. Take standard trad gear up to #3 cam.

FA: Josef Goding (P1) & Ingvar Lidman (P2), 2008

Activity

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