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Description

Grey buttresses split by distinctive chasm on top of plateau on way to The Gallery. Mother Buttress is at right end of a wall and is identified by a triangular tooth of grey rock.

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Located less than 50m left of the Gallery walking track, about 100m short of the summit flats. Turn left off Gallery Track at major boulder that sits just right of the track.

Descent Notes

The bolted routes have lower-offs or rap anchors.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
8 Spanking Trad 10m

Middle of slab round right of Puppy Love.

FA: Stuart Imer, Stephen Hamilton, Lisa Imer & Richard Smith, 1992

2
9 Puppy Love Trad 12m

Arete right of I Need My Mother.

FA: Lisa Imer & Richard Smith, 1992

3
22 I Need My Mother Trad 12m

Left-leaning seam on steep, compact wall at right end of face. Right from seam onto slab. Finish on terrace.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Stuart Imer, 1992

4
20 * Mad Dash Sport 20m, 8

Well bolted warm-up for The Gallery. RBs up right side of main bolted wall. Slabby start, pumpy end finishing up right to anchors.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

5
19 * Split Decision Sport 25m

2m left of Mad Dash. Requires 3 bolt plates. Anchor is set well back from the edge - best to rap rather than lower-off. Originally led ground up on trad.

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2005

6
20 * Blunted Enthusiasm Sport 25m, 4

‘Turtle-shell’ wall climbing. A very runout sport route or a very safe ‘mixed’ climb. Starts 5 metres left of Split Decision. Up easy slab to horizontal. Balance up seam (UB) and then blast up jugs to stance. Take the right bolted line past a further three UBs to top. A limited selection of large wires and medium cams can supplement the bolts. Rap from anchor on ledge above Split Decision.

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & KP, 2005

7
19 * Early Riser Trad 25m

Neil had this cleaned and bolted before anyone else got out of bed. A slightly easier trad finish to Blunted Enthusiasm. After the second UB take the left line (RB) to thin crack. Finish up well protected wall about 2m left of Blunted Enthusiasm. Rap from anchor on ledge above Split Decision.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2005

Go up right from Mother Buttress for 120 metres through boulders to a hidden wall well behind.

8
6 Top Gun Trad 10m

Right end of wall right of High In The Saddle, just left of arete.

FA: Karen Tempest, 1992

9
19 High In The Saddle Trad 12m

Short compact wall above conifer and just right of big chimney. Step right just below top.

FA: Stuart Imer & Stephen Hamilton, 1992

Activity

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