Mother Buttress Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kieran Loughran Campbell Gome Anthony Cheff Andreas Aachen Ben Jenga Dale Rankin Paul Frothy Thomson Vanessa Wills shane mitchell Andrew Cowell

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Mother Buttress 9 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Mother Buttress 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Seasonality

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -37.245239, 142.275097

description

Grey buttresses split by distinctive chasm on top of plateau on way to The Gallery. Mother Buttress is at right end of a wall and is identified by a triangular tooth of grey rock.

The south face of this buttress seems to have been ignored in the gold-rush of the 1990s. It is 25m high, featured and steep. A further three more routes could be done in the high teens early 20s. It is located less than 50m left of the Gallery walking track, about 100m short of the summit flats.

access issues

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

inherited from Grampians

approach

Located less than 50m left of the Gallery walking track, about 100m short of the summit flats. Turn left off Gallery Track at major boulder that sits just right of the track.

descent notes

The bolted routes have lower-offs or rap anchors.

ethic

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education