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Description

A remote crag high on the range featuring spectacular views. Expect two hours of uphill scrub-bashing. Any sense of isolation and despair engendered by the walk will be enhanced by the cliff and its existing climbs. The experience could be further intensified by venturing in during summer.

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Park on Red Rock Road just south of Muline Creek, 1 kilometre north of the Mt Fox turnoff, next to a locked barrier on a track heading east. Follow this track for 300 metres to a T-junction, turn left and, after 200 metres, turn onto a vague track to the right. This heads north-east and soon peters out on the southern slopes of the next creek north of Muline Creek. The idea now is to follow the righ-hand side of this creek valley to the crest of the ridge. At this point Mount Cactus will be on your right and you will be amazed at the aptness of the name. Descend from the summit down overlapping slabs leading to the right-hand end of the crag. GR 132816

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 X The Scream Trad 60m

A bold, strong lead up the outstanding crack line at the left end of the huge cave.

  1. 40m (16) Follow the crack, and sometimes the left wall, to a large ledge. The rock is better than it looks and improves as you get higher but has a touch of sea-cliff uncertainty.

  2. 20m (-) Up awkward mega-jugs to a tree-filled gully. Scramble up gully to summit.

FA: Andy Long, Gordon Talbett (alt) and james McIntosh, 1994

2
16 Untitled Route Trad 25m

Well to the right of the huge cave and below the slabs of the descent route, is a steep band of rock leading up and left.

FA: James McIntosh, Gordon Talbett, Andy Long, 1994

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